I would not skip Rennes - one of my 5 favorite cities in France.

It would be helpful to specify the day of the week you be in these places. I would not visit Rouen, Rennes, Vannes, Angers, Poitiers (we've neve visited Poitiers), Albi, or Toulouse on a Sunday, or Monday morning when shops are closed & the city is quite "dead" (except for museums).

Stu Dudley

Stu's advice about when to visit towns depends on your intent. You have a very crowded itinerary, so at best you will see only the major sites in any town, and these tourist sites might very well be open on a Sunday or Monday. That would be true of Angers where the main sight is the castle and the tapestries of the Apocalypse (not to be missed), of Poitiers where the main Romanesque church (is it the cathedral?) is what should be seen, and of Albi where Ste. Cécile and the Bishop's palace are the main attractions--the rest of the towns is <i>en passant</i>.

To all: I can’t believe I posted my message three times – my apologies!

Thanks, Michael and Stu! I really appreciate your additional insights.

Re: Carnac. I haven’t found the 2011 schedule yet, but if it is similar to 2010, then one can only visit the alignments of Carnac with a guided tour, and it is unlikely that there will be a tour when I am able to be there. In contrast, the last I heard, one can visit the alignment at Kerherzo on one’s own at any time. So if I can’t visit Carnac, I’m hoping visiting Kerherzo will be possible.

Re: the Loire Valley. Thanks for the warning about my time there. I don’t usually eat lunch, but I obviously need to allow time for the unexpected. I will assume that I’ll have to skip Langeais. BTW, I have read that as long as one reaches Villandry in time to buy a ticket and enter the gardens before last-ticket-sale (which should be at 7 p.m. when I'll be there), one can roam the grounds until sunset (which won't be until after 9 p.m.). I don't want to stay too late, since I'd like to reach Poitiers before sunset, but if true, that would give me a little more latitude than if I had to leave the gardens by 7.

Re: Fougeres and Vitre. I keep going back and forth about these 2 places! I'm unlikely to have time for either, so it probably doesn’t matter, but if I do have a little bit of time, Vitre seemed like it might be a bit more manageable for a very short visit. I'll rethink once again!

Re: days and opening times -
Day 1 is a Thursday, so my Sunday/Monday stops are:

(a) days 4-5, from Paris through Giverny and Rouen to Honfleur. From what I can tell, all the places I want to visit on these 2 days will be open. I am aware that visiting Giverny on a Sunday is not ideal, but am hoping that it will be early enough in the season (mid-May) to avoid horrendous crowds.

(b) days 11-12, from Vannes through Angers to Fontevraud and the Loire Valley. Again, from what I can tell, all the places I want to visit on these 2 days will be open (including the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, Musee Jean-Lurcat, and cathedral in Angers).

c) days 18-19, from St. Cirq Lapopie through Albi and on to Toulouse. Once again, from what I can tell, all the places I most want to visit will be open, including the cathedral and Musee Toulouse-Latrec in Albi.

Fortunately, I'm not much of a shopper, so the fact that many stores will be closed isn't of great concern to me. I do have some time to visit markets built into my plans for Paris and Sarlat.

I’ve tried to check the hours of the places I most want to see throughout my journey, and believe that with the exception of Carnac, the only relatively high-priority destination that I will miss because it will be closed is the Baptistry of St. Jean in Poitiers, which is apparently closed on Tuesdays. My higher priority for Poitiers — the Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-La-Grande - should be open, as should St. Savin, so I still plan to go there. Of course, unplanned closures are always possible and I could easily end up missing some places because of unexpected delays or spur-of-the-moment decisions.

kja: I just came acoss your thread and quickly loked it over. You've gotten a mountain of usable information. The only suggestion I can add may or may not fit in.

Please make every effort to include at least one of the D-Day beaches..probably Omaha or Utah. It's something you will never forget in your lifetime. It will be more recent history than any of the other historic places you will visit. I don't know your country of origin, but if it's any of the allied nations, you will never be more moved or prouder of those who gave their lives. Please do it.

Enjoy your great trip.

stu tower

Hi
Re: the Loire Valley.
We are also on-the-go travelers and when we were there in April 2009, we began the day at 10am visiting Chateau d'Azay le Rideau (1.5 hrs), drove 15 minutes to Chateau de Langeais (1.25 hours), drove 15 minutes to Villandy's gardens (spent 1 hour here), drove half hour to Saumur for a quick 45 min. walk to see its exterior architecture (interior was closed), drove to a local shop to pay a ticket we got in Langeais for inadvertently parking in the wrong place, and then drove 15 minutes to end the day at Fontrevaud where we spent another 2 hours until they closed at 5:30pm. We visited Chenonceau another day and spent 2.25 hours there, the same amount of time we spent in Azay le Rideau and Saumur, so I would think you could fit all of that into one day. It just depends on how long you want to spend in each place - and although our trip was a whirlwind tour through France - somewhat like yours sounds (seen primarily through the lens of my camera!), how long to linger over sites is individual preference and there isn't any wrong answer. Just wanted you to know it is doable, especially with Villandy's late hours.
Anne

bookmarking

Hi, stu tower! I'm glad you chimed in.
> You've gotten a mountain of usable information.

I most assuredly have! This board is truly amazing, with so many posters who are so generous with their knowledge, expertise, and insights. My current plans are vastly better than they would have been as a result of this mountain of information. (And I love mountains!) Let me echo what many authors say: I owe a great deal to all of you who have taken the time to provide comments; any problems that remain with my plan are mine and mine alone. (And comments are still welcome!)

> Please make every effort to include at least one of the D-Day beaches ... you will never be more moved or prouder of those who gave their lives

I appreciate the depth of your feelings about this issue. My father and his brother both served in WWII (in the Pacific theater) and other family members served in that and other wars. I had the great privilege to spend part of my professional life with veterans of various wars and I am deeply grateful for the opportunity to have heard their stories and to have done what I can to honor their service. I have also experienced the power of visiting a number of incredibly moving memorials to those who served in defense of their countries and their causes. I am truly grateful to everyone who has worn the uniform in service of my country or my way of life. (And if I recall some of your other posts correctly, I believe that you are of them. If so, please accept my thanks.) If I choose not to visit one of these beaches on this particular journey, please understand that it is by no means because of indifference or a lack of gratitude.


castlevisitor - Thank you so much for sharing your experience! It is heartening to think that I might be able to visit my highest priority sites in the Loire despite my ambitious schedule. And the times you mention are very similar to what I had roughly estimated, so it really might be possible!


Piccolina - I've been watching your thread with interest. Please feel free to share your insights, too!


A few updates: I have confirmed a reservation for Pech Merle, am exchanging e-mails in an attempt to make reservations to see Lascaux and a few other sites in the Vezere Valley, and have confirmed that Malcolm Miller will be conducting tours of the cathedral in Chartres when I hope to join him. And I may be able to visit the alignments of Carnac at the start of my Day 11, rather than trying to visit Kerherzo the day before - I'm waiting for a reply to my query about that. Progress!

kja: I just want to express my admiration for you. You asked for feedback and then carefully considered it all.

So many people post itineraries here, and when given feedback say, "Oh, that's OK; we'll just drive by everything."

You sound like a very interested and interesting traveler.

Wow, this thread is very useful to me. Don't know why I haven't seen it before. We're planning a trip covering the same general area mid-May to mid-June. kja, you're a researcher after my own heart. And wonderful contributions by Fodors' experts.

I second Tuscanlifeedit 100%...you are most certainly a poster with a winning atttude and an open mind. Happy travels.

stu tower

tuscanlifeedit and tower -
Thank you so much for the kind words! Much appreciated.

Mimar -
I love to research my trips! Please feel free to share any insights you've developed through your preparations. And yes, the contributions of Fodors' experts to this thread have been wonderful.

Your Loire Valley route would go right near Chambord, which many consider to be the most formidable and awesome of the Loire chateaus, along with Chenonceaux. Pity IMO to pass it by without at least stopping to look at its facade from outside - its most impressive part IMO.

kja...just adding another thought for your consideration. In the Rocamadour area, even if only for one night, you might consider staying at <b>Domaine de la Rhue</b>, a favorite of mine and a few others from this forum. Easy five minute drive into Roc or a walk on very flat and easy trail (30-40 minutes or so) which takes you into the top level of Roc...with elevators to go down to street level. (of course I'm referring to daytime walk only)

http://www.domainedelarhue.com/gb/accueil.htm

This allows for avoiding the crowds in Roc, and have a pleasant evening at the Domaine, chatting with the delightful owner/couple (Christine and Eric). It's situated on it's own big spread..also easy quick drive to Gouffre de Padirac the next morning.

Stu

We have also stayed at the Domaine de la Rhue. Agree with 'stu' about the owners being lovely people. If you had the time, they have a very nice pool for relaxation at the end of a day. Richard

PalenQ - I would love to the Chateau de Chambord, and the idea of stopping long enough to see the facade is enticing, but I think it would add at least 2 hours of driving to my trip. If so, I think I'd rather wait until my next trip to France. Am I missing an obvious solution?

Stu and Richard - Thanks for recommending the Domain de la Rhue. It looks lovely and I will definitely consider staying changing my reservation. I had booked a room in Rocamadour at Le Terminus de Pelerins, and I've been assured that my room will have a balcony with a view over the valley. Do either of you know it?

kja...don't recall seeing the hotel Le Terminus so i can't really speak to it...Trip Advisor has some pretty grim reviews of its restaurant. You can't imagine how crowded the streets get with hordes of tourists.

Staying at the Domaine, we did our several day trips avoiding the Roc until after the tour busses left in the late afternoon.

As Dick says, the very nice outdoor pool at the Domaine is a most welcome respite on a hot late spring day.

stu

Hi kja; I don't recall the hotel you have booked. The hotel we suggest is in the open country side with a chateau, that's very close, as part of the property. I think, not sure, family lives in the chateau. But is sounds like you have a lovely place rented. Overlooking a valley sounds nice. So you have to revisit the web site 'stu' posted and make a decision. If beatiful open country side is to your liking, this is the place. Richard

Stu and Richard - The available rooms at the lovely Domaine de la Rhue are more than I prefer to pay, but I do appreciate your advice to check it out. Maybe next time! Instead, I'll look forward to views over the valley from my private balcony and a chance to roam around Rocamadour after the day-trippers leave.

I'm still looking for restaurants in Rocamadour (actually, almost everywhere I'll be traveling!), but as Stu suggested, the one at Le Terminus de Pelerins got crossed off my list of possibilities in light of the TripAdvisor reviews. Any and all suggestions for restaurants in Rocamadour or elsewhere are welcome! I'll be looking for regional specialties, generally on the not-too-expensive side, although I'll spring for a few splurges.

<i>I'll spring for a few splurges</i>

KJA..if you feel the "urge to splurge" may I suggest a winner just down the road from Roc, on the Hwy 140..the elegant <b>Chateau Roumegouse.</b> This is fine dining but not in the same expensive sense as Michelin-starred dining. On Christine's (from the Domaine de la Rhue)recommendation we thoroughly enjoyed a very relaxing dinner in a delightful ambience. We are not stratospheric food spenders so I doubt if it will send you back to Roc to beg for €'s on the street.

http://www.hotelsandchateaux.com/mid...use/index.html

In Domme, we favor the <b>Esplanade</b> with it's prize view of the Dordogne meandering below. Excellent lunch menu I can vouch for..we did not have dinner. Here are some Dordogne/Lot views including the Esplanade (these are scanned, before we went digital)

https://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/DordogneDomme#

Off topic: Since you are from the DC area presumably, my grandson-in-law, Syd, is on a country-wide tour with his band and will be in Arlington, Va. on April 14th, at the IOTA Club on 2832 Wilson. On his tours, he greets any Fodor friends of mine very warmly and you could enjoy some good, listenable music. Aduchamp and wife Andrea attended one in NY last year. Ive already alerted Fodorite friend MJ Pileggi in Frederick, Md. I would like to do the same for St.Cirq who I believe is a DC'er (so if your reading this St.C. you may want to catch the performance...)

http://artistdata.sonicbids.com/hotels--highways/shows/

Stu (L.A.)

KJA...I sent you the incomplete file on Dordogne pix..here's the other:

https://picasaweb.google.com/stuartt...eAndLotRegion#

stu

Hi again, Stu -

I’m very pleased to say that I’ll be staying at L’Esplanade for 2 nights and am definitely going to have dinner there one night. Stu Dudley mentioned it in his Dordogne itinerary, and as soon as I saw the web site, I knew it would be one of my splurges!

The Chateau Roumegouse looks wonderful – I’ll check it out!

Thanks for letting me know of your grandson-in-law’s upcoming performance. I don’t promise to be able to attend, but I’ve put it on my calendar.

And thanks so much for sharing your wonderful pictures of the Dordogne – you have a wonderful eye! I can’t wait to see these places for myself.


For anyone who is following this thread and is interested in the Carnac alignments:

I have just received confirmation that one may now visit the alignments of Carnac without a guide. Outstanding!

Hi again Stu Tower - I wanted to thank you again for letting me know about Syd's performance. I had hoped to attend, but the unexpected death of a coworker has forced me to adjust my plans.

<i>I have just received confirmation that one may now visit the alignments of Carnac without a guide. Outstanding!</i>

I was not aware that a guide is necessary. The alignments are in fenced but open fields. One may walk around them but not enter the fenced area. I do not recall if we had to pay for the megaliths, but again, no guide was necessary.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57624616164661

Micheal - I love your photographs! The megalith you show is Locmariaquer, isn't it? I can't wait to see these things for myself! Most of my guidebooks say that from April through September, the Carnac alignments can be visited only with a guided tour. I was glad to learn that I could roam around on my own.

The alignments are on a public road. I can't imagine that anyone can stop you from seeing them. Yes, the megalith is in Locmariaquer.

Thanks again, Michael, and sorry for misspelling your name.

BTW, most of the photos are geo-tagged, so that they can be located on a map.

Very cool, Michael! I never cease to be amazed by today's technology.

Diverse experiences found! I have returned from an amazing journey, enriched by a treasure trove of wonderful memories.

My final itinerary was quite similar to the one I posted on 1 March, an itinerary that – with your help – incorporated a delightfully wide variety of experiences in multiple domains, including (but not limited to) art, architecture, natural scenery, cuisine, and history. What a feast! It was not a relaxing trip, but it wasn’t stressful either. Instead, it was energizing and exhilarating. And the timing – May into June – was perfect: the weather was great, days were long, and there were flowers blooming just about everywhere.

One of the last things I did was to visit the truly lovely Lady and the Unicorn tapestries at the Cluny museum in Paris. I was struck by the unintended metaphor: Like the tapestries, my journey had been one of sight and sound and taste and scent and touch - and also of something else, I’m not sure what, but something special that seemed beyond or in addition to those five senses. And like those lovely tapestries, my trip provided enduringly vivid images set against a background of a million flowers.

I can’t thank you all enough!

bookmarking--thank you!

@ cybertraveler -- I'm glad to know you found value in this thread! :-) It was NOT a trip that would suit just anyone -- FAR too fast paced for that! -- but it was, for me, a complete delight.

kja,

What a pleasure it was to read through this thread! I have taken copious notes to help us revise our itinerary. I'm glad that you enjoyed the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries in the Cluny as a lovely endpoint to your trip. They are incredible!

Happy travels,
Carolyn

Hi, Stu.

Yes, I was a DC'er, but have been living in St-Cirq for the past year, so no DC concerts for me.

I never tire of the Unicorn tapestries at the Cluny. Must take DH by there on our next trip to Paris. Don't think he's ever seen them.

Thanks, Carolyn! Those tapestries are remarkable, and they provided a perfect summation of my experiences in France. Happy travels to you, too!

@ joannyc: My trip to SE France was wonderful, thank you! I’m just back, and will post about it when I can.

I’m glad you found this old information about my time in western France useful! Despite its age, I think this thread holds a wealth of information from Fodorites who know and treasure some of the most intriguing and enjoyable parts of western France. I’m sure your trip will be memorable and full of delights.

@ joannyc: Thanks! And I know that you are going to have a wonderful trip and look forward to seeing your pictures. :)