Seeing a different side of PARIS - Trip Report
 

<b> Friday 22nd May '09</b>
Getting into Paris this trip was via Ireland on Aerlingus after spending the last two weeks seeing a great deal of The Emerald Isle. Off the plane at CDG we bought a carnet of metro tickets and had our <b>NaviGo</b> travel cards (which we purchased last year ) and had them re-instated starting on Monday to Sunday.
Although pretty tired it was good to sit and relax on the RER while travelling into the city. Unlike the Underground from Heathrow in the early morning, the RER never seems to get over-crowded so it's a good time to stare out the window and catch one's breath.

Only for the second time ever, we are staying at the same hotel we stayed at last trip in 2008. I enjoy staying in different areas of Paris so always pick a new set of hotels.

The <b> Ibis Esplanade La Defense</b> is one of those hotels in a large chain, which gives a certain standard of hotel room which is very acceptable at their special weekend room rate of 49 euros for a double or twin room en-suite. Now, you could beat that price somewhere in Paris but I don't think you would like too!

One train change at Chatelet and we were on the metro Line 1 to Esplanade La Defense - this stop is the second to last from the Grande Arche at Defense and passes through stations like Palais-Royal, all the stops along the Champs Elysees, through Charles de Gaulle Etoile and over a railbridge on the Seine, through the towering office blocks and ending as I said at the Grande Arche.

As we passed through the metro at Esplanade L.D. we noticed a small kiosk selling baguettes filled with cheese, ham, salad etc., and realised we were darn hungry!
One was large enough for both of us and enjoyed munching on it in the room after checking in - which litterally took 2 minutes.

Showered and changed we headed out to the Champs Elysees to get our mobile/cell phones changed to French simcards. This we did at the very large <b> SFR </b> on the righthand side walking down from the Etoile.
The walkway to and from the metro Esplanade La Defense has a pretty hedge in full bloom. We took in the view we had come to know so very well last year and walked over to the little vineyard growing on top of the metro station. The vines had certainly doubled in side and in the watm Spring sunshine were sprouting tendrils in all directions. The Arche de Triomphe stood majestically in the distance and slightly to the right but cut in half, was the Eiffel Tower.

Walking on down on the leftside of the Champs we came across two hardworking chefs churning our crepes by the minute. Permission granted we photographed them and carried on with our afternoon stroll.
Later we took the metro to Chinatown in the 13th Arr. for our first dinner in Paris.
Walking up from metro Porte de Choissy we took in the bustling Friday night shoppers hurrying home with bags full of groceries, groups of Chinese people chatting on the sidewalk, and others like us looking for a restaurant. We were headed to Kerouac's favourite restaurant in these parts and highly reccommended.
We found La Lune , 36 Avenue de Choisy with it's cresent moon above the entrance. It was still early evening, about 7pm, and there were only a few tables occupied. We chose to sit in the window area giving us a view of what was happening on the street.
Two extentsive menu's were presented by the charming owner. We were quite overwhelmed by all the choices! Finally settling on Boeuf 'Loc-Lac' for Peter and Boeuf saute` sauce piquant for me, accompanied by Riz du Chef which we shared.
We had a Singha and a Tsing Tao beer for drinks. The whole meal came to 30.60 euros for two of us. Absolutely great food - the beef just melted in your mouth and definitely the best Chinese meal we had in all the time we were away.
By the way Kerouac - I showed the gentleman owner a print out I made of your photos on Port O' Call. He smiled when he saw the famous person who had eaten there and said he has been in business for 45 years, maybe more I don't acurately remember.
He's an awfully nice friendly person and gave us superb service - that is definitely our Chinese restaurant of the future in Paris!
After dinner it was dark so we wondered up and down the street taking some photos before we went back to La Defense.

As we came down the steps off the metro (becasue the esculators were turned off), there was a section of sidewalk that levels out before splitting into two very small steps.
I was so busy watching all the tour buses and people around I didn't see them and fell onto my knees. It was so painful I thought that was the end of my walking in Paris!
Hobbling into bed I took some Cataflam and two pain killers and tried to sleep with two very swollen and bruised legs.
In the morning I found I could walk but touching my knees or shins was extremely painfull. Lucky I brought the right pills and soon pain was a thing of the past!

<b> Saturday 23rd May</b>
Lovely and sunny we left the hotel around 9.30am and went and had coffee and croissants at Quality Hamburger instead of MacD's, on the Champs Elysees.
Total: 4.00 for both of us. I don't know of any other places in Paris where a cup of coffee & and a pastry costs 2 euros!

<b> What's at the other end? </b>

Unless you are going to the Petit or Grand Palais to see an exhibition, many tourists don't seem to wander up from Pace de la Condcorde or much further down than metro
George V. It seems that way when the crowds disapate and lovely trees get absorbed into gardens with fountains and beds of colourful flowers.
Even less tourists ( actually none!) are seen along Ave. Marigny and Ave.Gabriel where you will find on a Saturday morning the Philatilists doing some hot trading with buyers.
This is our second visit to the Stamp Market and I am interested to see what they have on South African stamps. Zilch, nothing, not one.
I saw what looked like one of the traders giving out handfuls of stamps to children. On enquiring found out they are totally free to encourage an interest for collecting by young children. I came across a small boy with his mom and handed him a few Nelson Mandela and Soccer World Cup 2010 special edition stamps.

Crossing over to the Grand Palais we saw the long line for the Andy Warhol exibition.
No interest to us so we continued photographing and crossed over into the 7th arr. by way of Pont Alexandre lll.
A bride was posing with her newly acquired husband in a most unusual gown of black & white. We then found the chains with the locks around several lampposts. I'm a bit fuzzy about the legend of those locks but I know it has something to do with both parties closing the lock and throwing the key into the Seine. I suppose to show a long a faithful marriage?

<b> New findings in the 7th </b>

Looking at my own made up guide with lots of scibbles and notes I see I have maked the church of Saint Clotilde and the pretty little square surrounding it. We go down rue Grenelle passing Institute Geographic Narional before turning down rue de Martignac. This very pretty church leads onto Square Rousseau with a shady little restaurant to add to the charm.


<b> Lunch in the 14th and more exploring </b>

I think we exited the metro at Gaite` because we seemed to walk a long way down rue Froidevaux before seeing the road that cuts through Cimitiere` du Montparnasse, namely rue Emile Richard and immediately on the corner of rue Gassendi the restaurant we were looking for - Chez Papa , 6 Rue Gassendi.
I was here for the 'boyarde' salad and before that I needed a cold beer! Paris was hot and walking for miles and miles is thirsty work. It had started to drizzle slightly but the restaurant was too hot inside to we opted for a corner table just out of the rain.
Soo the delicious lunch arrived and although starving hungry, could not finish the enormous bowl of food before me. It consists mainly of saute` potatoes, a dash of cheese, a slice of ham, a bit of tomatoe and other greens with a tasty salad dressing.
Very delicious but a man sized portion with a basket of baguette slices was more than enough - besides tonight was our GTG dinner! Better walk some more........................

We sauntered slowly down Rue Daguerre which is very similar to Rue Cler with open displays of vegetables, cheeses and seafood, alongside a butchery or two.
Just where the pedestrian part ends at rue Boulard we spied a most unusual toy shop.
Stepping into this Aladin's Cave of toys we soon were picking out a few for our new baby grandson.
Continuing on I saw a perfume shop - it's called Nocibe` , 12 rue Daguerre.
Here I found my favourite Georgio and two other Giorgio Armani perfumes I had never seen before. 87,80 euros later I left a very happy lady!
Leaving rue Daguerre at Ave Gen. du Lerclerc we turned towards Denfert Rochereau and the Catacombes. Before we knew it we were surrounded by very armed police - looking quite non-chalant I add - and some people chanting slogans and waving the red flags of The Tamil Tigers. Looking across the road at the long, the very long line waiting to get into the catacombes, we decided to pass and look for something I really wanted to see before it disappears.


Not everyone would seek this treasure

Strolling down Blvd Arago for what seemed absolute ages we eventually arrived at the last "vespasien" in Paris. Well, a gentlemen's urinal - in the guide Unexplored Paris it's shown in quite good nick (condition). Now, what a sorry sight. I cannot believe even this unusual piece of history is being neglected and forgotten. Very sad.
It's needs a new coat of paint for a start.


Fodorites GTG


We showered and changed for the big night, setting off for the RER Luxembourg as instructed. These trains don't run as frequently as the metro so if using it leave in plenty of time, which luckily we did. A wait of 20 min. before we were on our way but arrived just on time at Perraudin , 157 Rue St. Jacques.
A large table was already seated and waiting with a few more on another table immediatedly adjacent. We were greated by Monica and found our seats at the table with Pat next to me, Deborah & Ron at the top, Leslie (schnauzer) & Alex opposite.
Gee, I hope I've got that right!
The evening was lovely with livened conversation, and getting to know a little bit about our fellow Fodorites. After dessert I decided was the best time to present my Fodorite family with a small remembrance of the evening. The flatest thing I could pack was special edition co-memorative stamps of Nelson Madela on his 90th birthday. Every knows he is, and hopefully, in few years time will become quite valuable.
I was so pleased to hear Monica is a stamp collector, which made it all worthwhile.

Show me the way to go home

A superb dinner of Pate` foi gras, Boeuf Bourguinon, and dessert of icecream served in an Italian style with nuts and fruit ended with coffee.
We walked through the frenzied Place de la Contrescarpe heaving with young folk out having a good time! We kind of got a bit lost and went up to two young chaps leaning against a wall and asked which way to the nearest metro - they answered in impeccable "Will and Harry" accents as to where we should go!
Thank you Monica for arranging a super evening for all of us!

Photos: I wish kodak gave the same large image as Flickr but I have posted two albums so far and don't want to satrt over -sorry for the quality.
http://tinyurl.com/krd5hw

Forgot to apologise for some typos and add the next 6 days are still to come..................................

Your report is far too interesting for anyone to worry about the odd typo!

A question about your hotel as the price is certainly attractive... about how much extra travel time would you guess it took out in and out from La Defense?

Thanks... and looking forward to more. ;^)

Rob

Enjoyed your report. What a terrific price for the hotel. Sorry about your fall - but sounds like it didn't hamper your walking, anyway.

Tod,

Although I'm anxious to read about the Ireland portion of your trip, I am so glad you are posting the Paris portion first!

A great read so far - keep it coming!

Gina

Great report and wonderful pix. I love the color of the Chinese restaurants at night.

Horrible to have to admit it, but I don't know how to get the titles above the pix like yours are. If it isn't too difficult and time-consuming to explain, would you please share your expertise on captioning. The only way I found to do it, was to add it as a comment, but then you have to stop and check comments on each one. Not a good "work around.,"

Looking forward to more. Thanks.

Hi Tod

Good to see your report, I am enjoying reading about all the bits I can do next time!!

It was lovely to meet you and Peter at the restaurant and thanks again for the lovely stamp.

Keep the details coming and don't worry about the typos, just get that info down on the page!!!

Schnauzer

Hi Tod,

I have been looking for your report and here it is. Not a different side of Paris but <i>many</i> different sides--what fun for you both. Very sorry to read that you fell but from all the walking it doesn't sound as if it was too bad.

Thanks again for the stamps! Such a kind and thoughtful thing to do--what a treasure for those of us who received them.

Great photos. Looking froward to reading where your wanderings took you next.

Great report, Tod. I'm glad you liked "La Lune."

Wouldn't it be great to live in Paris for a long time? Enjoying this report.

Forgot to say "and pictures also"-good going!

Thanks all of you! I will do my best to get this report done soon as possible - it's the selection of photos and the awfully long time it takes to load them that slows things down. Anyway...........................to continue:

ParisAmsterdam: It takes aprox. 7-10 minutes from Metro Esplanade La Defense to Charles de Gaulle Etoile. From there one can connect to other lines.

Julie: When you have loaded all the photos and are previewing your 'album' there are some choices you have to click on - Just below the photo (small) you will see the word OPTION - click that, then choose the 'add photo title' or look on the extreme left of your screen and see a window already giving you the options headed Edit Album .
Hope that helps - one more thing - when you do add a title or change photos around, you must click the SAVE or SAVE & REPLACE option or else it reverts back to the original choice.

SUNDAY 24th May

We decided this morning breakfast was going to be a couple of those talked about galettes made with grated potatoe, onions, and Comte cheese, having read a post by Cape Cod in 2008 about the organic market, or correctly named "Marche` Biologique Raspail", on Blvd Raspail.
Exiting the metro at Sevres-Babylone nearest the Hotel Lutecia we soon spotted 'our man'! There he was griddling away as fast as he could - every now & then he would have to leave his galettes to serve another customer. Soon we made our way through the throngs of shoppers holding piping hot and very cheesy galettes.
Nearing the other end we bought some cherries to complete our breakfast 'on the hoof'. It was a beautifully sunny day so was our oportunity to visit Belleville.


BELLEVILLE & MENILMONTANT:
For this walkabout I brought along my Thirza Vallois "Around and About Paris 13th-20th Arrondissements".
She suggests this walk on a Tuesday or Friday if you combine it with a plunge into present-day ethnic Paris winding up at the open-air market on Blvd de Belleville.

Taking the metro to Telegraphe as instructed we find out that this metro is not accessible at the moment. This mean't getting the metro back to Porte des Lilas, the stop before Telegraphe.
As we came out on the street I spotted a MacDonalds. It was already pretty hot, I guess around 11am now, so we went to have a drink. I am one of those tourists who has given up carrying a water-bottle around because it just adds to the weight of my purse.
I get a beer & a coke for Peter - an elderly man who looks like a person who had his whole world on a sort of pully leans over and says to me " You are lucky they served you the beer - because you have to order a meal if you drink alcohol"
"I've already eaten, I say
"It's because they can see you are a tourist they don't mind" he adds.

NOW FOR THE HILL:
Well refreshed, it's back into the sun and a slow saunter up Rue de Belleville (Not Blvd), towards Telegraphe. Along the road shop windows have displays of clay tagines and I want to buy one so desperately!
At the top we see the metro entrance all shut up. Telegraphe is not called this for nothing. Here you will find a plaque fixed to the cemetery wall showing where in Sept 1792 Claude Chappe
had chosen to test his experiment the 'telegraphe' here because of it's notible altitude (128.5m).
This would have allowed Paris to communicate with the provinces of France who were engaged in a patriotic republican war against the monarchies of Europe, but the 'sans-culottes' wrecked his brilliant invention suspecting he was communicating with the incarcerated royal family. He tried again on 25th July the following year when he sent a telegraph to Ecouen, a distance of 35.5km away.
Then followed the connection with Lille to the northern most hill in Montmartre and Strasbourg was connected with Belleville.
The cemetery we are standing next to, did not exist at the time, only opening in 1804. I took a brief peek inside the gates.

ALL DOWNHILL FROM NOW ON:
Turning into rue du Telegraphe we walk past the reservoir of Belleville until the corner of rue du Borrego & rue de la Duee.
Here she suggests going along Passage Gambetta, then rue Haxo where you will find the church of Notre-Dame-des-Otages.
Being a Sunday we skip that part (but there is a lot of history here -Communards) and turn into rue Taclet instead. This leads to a lovely leafy area called Villa Georgina (it's a special name for us) It's quiet and peaceful with creeping vines hanging onto the stonework.
Back onto rue de la Duee we continue down to Sq. de Menilmontant. Just opposite is the narrowest alley in Paris - an 0.80m wide crevasse - Passage de la Duee.

The parklike square is full of families seeking shade under a few small trees, some lying on picnic blankets. Probably most are from the enormous block of flats which looms overhead.


GET THIS:
The square was once the propery of the Saint-Simoniens with neat vegetable gardens, a magnificent orchard and lilac trees.
Briefly, in 1832 the son of a wealthy banker and alumnus of the prestigious Ecole Polytechnique (which today still trains France's topmost mathmaticians and engineers) retired, oropted out of scociety more like it, at the age of 36 with 40 of his mates after inheriting the propery from his father.
Prosper Enfantin, was inspired by the doctrine of Comte de Saint-Simon and wished to promote the notion of justice and brotherhood through a life of simplicity.
To cut a long story short, these bearded chaps dressed up in red & purple, sang songs about equality and attracted the ire of the police who did not find them at all amusing! They ended up in prison for a year and the propery put up for sale.
Once released Prosper Enfantin travelled to Egypt where he stayed for four years. Here this brilliant engineer came into his own, befriending Mehmed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, and conceiving the plan..........to build the Suez Canal.
Sadly he did not live long enough to carry out the project but it was taken over by his disciple, de Lessops.
So there you have it.


PARC DE BELLEVILLE:
Walking out of the gate I detect we are going too far down for us to be in line with the top of Parc de Belleville. Exiting the little parc in rue de Menilmontant and turning up rue Pixerecourt I forget to follow the road over rue des Pyrenees, where two blocks further along we would have come across a provincial red-tiled roof of a one storeyed house.
It is the gatepost to a quiet side street, appropriately named rue du Retrait where, at nos.29/31 Maurice Chevalier was born on 12th Sept.1888.
Not a great mishap as at the time of writing her book, this was an empty building site waiting for another concrete tower.
Maybe it's there already?

The writer suggests turning into Rue des Pyrenees & walking up to Place Guignier, Cite` Leroy, and Villa de L'Ermitage, rue des Cascades, coming across le Regard des Messiers & le Regard de la Roquette, both of which are points of interest in the book "Unexplored Paris".
But, one can only accomplish so much on a day when the temperature is rising to a very hot 29C I believe.

So, we turn into rue de L'Est and up Pyrenees and eventually walking down rue des Envierges and seeing some of the local women hanging out washing in their windows and conversing with passersby in the street. At last arriving at a lovely rural square with a Wallace fountain, a little restaurant, and a view over all of Paris! WOW!

THERE'S A SHOW DOWN BELOW:
Standing in the shade of the building covering the outlook over the Parc de Belleville we see people setting up for a show. Soon the amphitheatre begins to fill up and a juggler comes out and gets the crowd, especially the children, enthralled in his skill of never missing a baton?juggle?
When his performance ends a man comes out in disguise but soon peels off and shows his stuff. This chap is a dancer for sure - just look at those legs, just look at those splits!

Feeling hot & tired we snag a small table and two chairs and drag then into a tiny patch of shade. At this place you go inside and get your beer and bring it out yourself.
A good hour passes as we enjoy the atmosphere of being around the locals.

SURPRISE MARKET:
Well and truly rested we take the long flight of stairs down through a lovely curved vine awning. Every now and then the steps are crossed by a narrow footpath brimming with roses.
There are shady benches along the paths but we carry on down until coming out into the open lawns.
The heat pushes us forward and we leave the lovely and enchanting Parc de Belleville.
We keeping walking straight ahead and arrive at Blvd de Belleville where the market is still going on. Traders are trying to out-shout each other with last minute bargains for the housewife.
Strolling through I find the oddest tomatoes I've ever seen.
Enormous size with ridges running from top to bottom. The stall-holder tells me they are the best - 'Very delicious'!


WHAT'S NEXT?
The afternoon has worn on and we are definitely feeling a bit footweary. We go down the metro at Belleville and decide to go back to Chinatown in the 13th. Last year Peter wanted to take a ride on a tram we saw running along a track on Blvd Massena. Funny how one tends to go back to unfinished business!
We get out at metro Porte de Choissy once again and stand waiting for the tram.
The route takes us partly over tar road and partly over a grassy area every now and then. We just loved it. So different to the noise of a bus or metro train. This is silent and glides beautifully along it's track.
We go to the end of the line, Pont du Garigliano and get back on to come all the way back.

Walking up rue de Choisy we decide 6.30pm is not too early for dinner. We head this time for Tricotin. It's a very large restaurant which boasts more than one kitchen specialising in Chinese and Vietnamese dishes.
Most of the tables are large for 6 or more people but we take one near the windows.
We wait for some time before being attended to and order drinks. We decide on our good old standby's of a beef dish and sweet 'n sour pork with a rice accompaniment.
The place is empty except for a large table of ladies and one other of a local family. We then spot a couple that was on the tram with us. We wait and now see our waiter is sitting at a table having his dinner. The manageress is also having her dinner.
The food arrives with another waiter but we have to ask for sauces and chopsticks. It's delicious but not like La Lune.
We found the waiters here don't look at you and have a very off-hand manner. We almost felt unwelcome.
Maybe because it was early, maybe they just see so many faces, maybe our waiter's shoes hurt?! Anyway, after a year of wanting to go there so badly I can honestly say it was a disappointment.

Back to the Ibis to pack - we move out Monday morning to a new hotel on the Ile de Cite.
More on that in a day or two! Here are the photos:

http://tinyurl.com/lrojwn

Fantastic report. Love the way you travel. Nothing like getting out and about on. I'll be bookmarking for my next Paris visit as Belleville is somewhere I havent ventured as yet.

Oops that should be "out and about on foot."

I've been to Paris many times, but never have visited most of these places. This trip report gives me new ideas for the next time...merci! Loved your pictures.

Want to try the tram and Belleville! Again, great report and pix.

Tod, one of the best things about your photos of the view from the Parc de Belleville is that it shows how far you can be from the Eiffel Tower and the Tour Montparnasse and still be in Paris. I bet a lot of people looking at these photos didn't even notice the Eiffel Tower!

Thanks for the nice comments - I suggest to anyone wanting to walk around in these double-digit arrondisements, that you take along a very detailed guide book.
I have the three Thirza Vallois "Around & About Paris" which not only gives you the historical lowdown but suggests a walk with a map for each area.
With something like this in hand you can pick out what you can accomplish and leave some for next time. They are paperback and very light to carry.

Another couple of "walking" suggestions are:

PARIS - History & Mystery by Peter Cain - You can find their schedule of walks on www.paris-walks.com

CITY WALKS - PARIS by Christina Henry de Tessan
This comes as cards with a map and description of each walk.
Very handy if hauling a heavy guide book is not your thing.
Just pick the cards you want for the day and step out the door!

I also have the sixth edition of:
PARIS WALKS by Sonia, Alison and Rebecca Landes.
These walks are only in the most touristy areas but do give great information at what you are looking at along the way.

At the moment I have been loading more photos and hope to carry on in a day or two.

Kerouac - Yes I think that little A shape in line with the 'cigarette lighter' shape of Tour Montparnasse might well be missed, but hope now most don't miss the distance factor.
In ancient times people walked that distance to church and back every Sunday to say Mass - icy winters too.

I want to tell you that the book "Unexplored Paris" by Rodolphe Trouilleux has a page on the Mouzaia district.
He heads the page "Quarries of America" - referring to the gypsum quarries that once were there.
Also mentions the area gets it's name Mouzaia from an area in Algeria.
I have had this book for at least 5 years and never took any notice of that page probably because of the heading and also his photograph of those long steps is not very good. If I hadn't seen your photos I wouldn't have recognised the same place.

Tod, I think you were the one to give me the History and Mystery reco - a great book, thanks! I bought it before our trip.

Wow, you shame me. I cannot believe how much you and your husband do in a day. What energy!

The most recent link to your photos doesn't work for me...

todd, thanks for a wonderful report, photos.
and views of a very differeny Paris

Thank you for your lovely photos.

I hated Place Contrascarpe. I thought it was depressing and poor. I wandered down the Rue Mouffetard and was horrified by some of the odd characters I encountered. Many obviously have never seen the inside of a shower stall for months or heard of Aqua di Parma.

I honestly don't know why Fodorites recommend walking down Rue Mouffetard. It is grim.

Thin

Sorry, tod, I was being a ding-a-ling. The link to your photos works fine.

Oh Thin, Isn't it good we're all different!
I've seen place Contrascarpe in the raw light of day - empty and deserted. When we passed through it after our GTG it was a Saturday night and ALIVE! I loved seeing the young people out having a good time. Here in our poor old filthy city they are all inside dark dingy nightclubs.
Give me Place Contrascarpe anyday!

Leely2 - Good girl!
I have a huge amount all loaded for the next episode/saga??!

Flygirl - great! it was me.

Hi Tod!

I just found this thread. Glad you enjoyed the GTG on the 23rd. I did too! Thanks again for the Mandela stamp. My grandmother would be envious of me!

Monica ((F))

Hi Tod!

I am really enjoying your wonderful report. I feel like such a slacker with regard to trip reports, especially since it seems like half the folks from the GTG have done reports, including Schnauzer, Leely2, and Monica and Paule from our other GTG. It was lovely meeting you at the GTG and my daughter and I loved the stamp! Thank you again for such a thoughtful gift.

Louisa

I shouldn't say this here, but I will mention that at Anyport, it is wonderful just to give a little snippet of a detail of a trip -- just enough to inspire a little commentary.

I'll do that.

ON THE MOVE TO ILE DE LA CITE`

MONDAY 25TH MAY - LEAVING HOTEL (49euros)IBIS

We never unpack the entire contents of our cases so it doesn't take that long to throw it all back in!
This time we were given a room on the 6th floor of the Ibis - last time was 3rd floor. I gaze out at the Monday morning rush hour traffic. The metro is packed - people look like ants walking into the tall office blocks.

We walk to the metro and stop for 15min or so to have a croissant & coffee at the little kiosk.
When the metro train comes it's nearly empty on it's trip back. We are on Line 1 which takes us directly to Hotel de Ville. We only have to drag our cases across Pont d' Arcole and the wall of Hotel Dieu De Cite` is alongside - our new home right inside a working hospital! The entrance is off Place du Parvis Notre Dame, so we have to walk around the corner.

Going up to the hospital reception desk we are directed to walk down the long corridor and take the lift B2. I ignore that and take lift B1. 6th Floor but where the hell are we? Wheres the receptionist? I leave Peter there and go through some door opposite and find a lady sitting in an office. She kindly leads me to a lift and says I must start over. I go down and (this is the part where I LOVE my cellphone)and ring Peter to come down, forgetting he has to lug two cases, his camera bag & my vanity case. We meet in the corridor again and go to Lift B2.
Entering through two enormous doors we find ourselves in a sort of holding area for gurney's. A beautiful staircase leads upwards and the two lifts are opposite.


CLEAN & CLINICAL
The reception area of the Hotel Hospitel Dieu is small but has a little table and four chairs. Off to the oneside is a kitchenette and a large fridge where guests are welcome to leave wine or a small portion of food.
We are received with a warm smile and shown how to get in and out after 10pm & how to operate the sliding skylight in our room.
We are pleased with the cleanliness factor - spotless as a hospital room should be. After all this is where patients families get a special deal if they want to be near them.
I like the twin beds as they give far more room than a standard double or queen which is too small when one is used to a kingsizebed at home.
Nice FlatronTV, but apart from the skylight, no view at all.
Peter stood on the bed to take a shot of Notre Dame Cathedral through the open skylight.

We headed off right away not unpacking a thing - the sun was out and I was itching to explore the two islands!
As we get out the lift a patient with an intravenous needle sticking out of his arm is being pushed through the door by theatre staff. A scene of green gowns and masks - and one which we will get quite used to in the next three days.
Luckily I'm not the squeemish type.

Will continue tomorrow..............

A HOT SUNNY MONDAY IN THE MIDDLE OF PARIS.

In Leonard Pitt's book "Walks through Lost Paris" he starts his chapter on Ile de la Cite` thus:
'If dirt could speak, the rush of voices coming from the earth you are standing on would tell enough stories to send you into a state of vertigo. For it was on this tiny island more than two thousand years ago that the city of Paris was born"

Passing out through the main entrance of the hospital. This looks directly at the wide open space of Place du Parvis Notre Dame, crawling with the likes of us admiring the cathedral in all it's Gothic glory. Today the Grand Old Dame of churches is washed in brilliant sunlight.
Yes, it is one of the oldest standing vestiges of medieval Paris, however most of what you see today is the work of Viollet-le-Duc dating from the 19th century only.
To really get to grips with 'how it all began' those thousands of years ago, head straight for the Crypte Archeologique just down a few steps underneath that wide expanse of concrete and stone. We have been there on two occasions and also seen the interior of Notre Dame at least three times so I am now only interested in seeing old historic buildings made famous by one person or another, strange little streets, and some off-beat quirky stuff that I've read about.

RUE CHANOINESSE
Ever since seeing a photo and reading about 'Tombstones to keep your feet dry' in the book Unexplored Paris, I have had to do this.
Turning from rue d'Arcole into rue Chanoinesse I begin the search on the sidewalk for long flagstones with traces of Gothic script, and which in fact, are tombstones from some religious establishment on Ile de la Cite. They were used for drainage keeping generations of Parisians feet dry.
Down the street and up again - nothing! I think they must have been covered up with new tar or concrete. Why oh why didn't I lug the book with me so I can see the picture!
Frustrated after three tries I give up.
Just as well. They are not in rue Chanoinesse - they are in fact in a small narrow courtyard common to several buildings but closed to view by heavy wooden doors, no.26 next to the restaurant Le Vieux Paris at no.24! This cul-de-sac used to lead through to rue des Ursins a very long time ago. Darn! Have to go back now - what a same! (Says me, secretly pleased!).

From here on we stroll down rue des Chantres, a silent narrow alley, but not before looking at no.10 opposite with it's picturesque shutters and green vegetation and the elegant 17th century mansion with beautiful wrought-iron decoration.
This was where Abelard and Eloise met.

Where rue des Chantres curves around and meets with rue des Ursins, it is particularly enchanting. There are steps leading up to Quai Aux Fleurs, a little garden with a water feature depecting two spouting lions heads pleases the eye.
Our walk along the Quai leads us to Pont St Louis and think it's a good time to stop and have a spot of early lunch at Brasserie Ile St Louis. Trying to find a table in the shade was nigh impossible but we managed to squeeze into two chairs arranged cheek-by-jowl in the French terrasse manner.
I have the onion tart with a cold beer. Peter says he doesn't feel too well and just has a coke and nibbles at the bread. Since Ireland he has been blowing his nose quite a bit and I think a bad cold has set in.

We decide to take it really slow and just stroll the island for the rest of the afternoon.
We see all the strange and wonderfully decorated balconies, doorways, drainpipes and desireable hidden courtyards where, if you have the bucks, can live in sublime comfort.
Returning to Pont Ile St Louis we hear music of a South American style with panflutes and guitars. Wanting to sit and listen awhile out of the sun we take a table at the corner restaurant on rue du Cloitre Notre Dame & Quai Aux Fleurs. It looks straight at the back of the cathedral and gardens. I think it was called the Esmeralda.
Before I take a seat I ask the waiter to direct me to the toilets so I can freshen up and that I'm gasping for a cold Leffe. As I sit down the beer is placed in front of me - what service!
Next to us is a man smoking an enormous cigar. With him a clean-cut young man having a beer. He hears our accents and starts a conversation. They are Americans and as we chat we find out the younger chap is his son and having a break from a stint in Iraq.
The son's cellphone rings and I hear him say "Yes Sir, we're at Naartray Day-m Sir" - (his Commanding Officer or some such high official, just informing him of some important happening). We say goodbye to dad & son who were such nice people and carry on walking.


A VISIT TO MY WILLOW TREE
A slow stroll through Place Lepine where all the flowers and plants are, as well as metro Cite`, takes us via Place Dauphine and down the steps to Square du Vert Galant.
Here on the tip of Ile de la Cite has always stood a large willow tree. Some years back now after stormy weather it became unsafe and started to collapse, so they cut the old tree down.
I was devastated when I found only a stump!. On each visit to Paris I used to have a photo taken next to my willow.
Next time I arrived to find a new little sapling taking hold in the exact same spot. Last year it was looking good and this time it was positively huge! Must be all that Seine water the roots are sucking up.

Peter says his ear is painful and he feels really bad.
Going back through Place Dauphine we see if we can have a 6.30 dinner at one of the restaurants but the chefs are all outside having dinner and we are told to come back later in a 'get lost, stop bothering us' manner.
We walk to Brasserie Les Deux Palais kind of opposite La Chapelle.
We are seated at a nice table outside on their terrace (not the sidewalk) and I order the roast chicken. Peter just wants a bowl of French onion soup. Before our dinner arrives we are told to get up and move to another table near the side entrance. The waiter slaps a white paper tablecloth down and re-seats us. Why? we ask. 'Because you are not having the full menu'. This is where I feel we got ripped off. Outside the blackboard is advertising the Poulet Roti with a starter of soup and a dessert for 13.50euros. I didn't want all that but got charged 11.50 just for the chicken. A can of coke was 6.50 whereas my glass of wine was 4.50. Why is coke so expensive?! The bill came to 28.50euros and we headed home.
By now the pain was excruciating and Peter said he felt as if there was a soccer match going on inside his head.
I gave hime three strong pain tablets and a double dose of anti-biotics. He went to sleep but I was very worried.
We were in a hospital and I was in a good mind to go downstairs and admit him.
Anyway, thankfully during the night he felt his pillow soaking wet but no pain. A large boil or something had burst. We felt bad when we had to show the cleaning lady how messed with blood and muck the pillows were. She was so sweet and later when we came back that night she had changed everything and laid a clean white towel over his pillow.

TUESDAY - 2ND DAY AND WET WEATHER
I was in two minds what to do about the ear. The anti-biotics were very strong and the pain had gone.
Leaving Peter in bed I walked to Ile St Louis to the pharmacy and told the pharmacist what had happened. She tried to phone an ENT specialist but there was no reply. I took the number with me to try later if need be.

Feeling much better but not great, Peter decided he could keep on taking in the sights as long as we didn't rush.
Great! We walked over to BHV to have breakfast in their cafeteria before having a good look at what they have on offer.
What a place! I think it was GraceJoan who talked about the ceramic house numbers. Well I found them down in the basement and bought some for my son's house as well.
Totally overwhelmed we went from floor to floor - never seen anything quite like this.

Dragging ourselves away we headed to rue Poncelet. It was raining and windy and very unpleasant. There wasn't much going on but it is a very nice market street. (Not open on a Monday).
Walking down Rue Laugier for what seemed ages we eventually came to L'Entredgeu, 83 rue Laugier, 17eme.
This was to become the best French food of the whole trip.
I can only describe the dishes because I could not bring myself to photograph the food in this tiny restaurant filled with locals. Doing that would have broken the spell! I would have felt like the tourist I am! Sorry.

Going for the two courses we started with hot asparagus soup.
Two deep white bowls were set down in front of us with crispy bacon at the bottom covered with a few shavings of parmesan of suchlike cheese. The waiter then arrived with a jug of pale green liquid - the soup. He pored it onto the bacon until our bowls were brimming. It was devine! Gorgeous just gorgeous.
Next the mains. I had the duck breast and Peter the lamb.
Wow - just incredible. I ordered half a bottle of red Sancerre.

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Where to next?

Still following your trip with interest. I feel bad for your husband; getting sick in Paris is no fun, but to be staying in a hospital must intensify the feeling. Hope he was able to enjoy the rest of the trip.

Thanks Nikki. There I was hobbling along after my fall and now this!

I highly recommend L'Entredgeu as a dining destination. All the staff looked family, customers were greeted with kisses on the cheek and it had a really nice atmosphere. Very small so I would think booking would be essential for dinner but we took a chance on lunch and were lucky having called in at around 12.30.
The total bill was steep at 72.00euros. Worth every penny.


BACK INTO OLD TERRITORY
Leaving the restaurant the weather was really miserable and we made plans for a picnic supper in our hotel room for that evening. I suggested we go and find that award winning Patissiere out in the 18th - only next door seeing we were in the 17th!
From metro Porte de Champerret we go to change lines at Saint-Lazare and see it is possible to get line 14 to the Olympiades. Plans soon change and we headed there first.
What a superb underground station. Modern and reminiscent of Singapore. Lets hope all stations look like this with the new upgrade.
According to The Connection newspaper (June issue), Paris is to get a 35bn euro transport network upgrade. I quote:
"Paris will stretch to the port of Le Havre thanks to a new ten-year engineering project to revitalise the capital beginning in 2012. The project will include a new TGV line and canal link, while 140km of new metro tunnels will be built around the capital".
At the moment some metro stations are looking pretty grim - don't know if anyone else found that.

THE OLYMPIADES
Kerouac featured this destination in Paris just before we left and I had it on my list of new oplaces to go.
Unfortuately when we got out of the metro the rain and wind was something else!
Not faint of heart we were swept along, even the umbrella turning inside out. The Olympiade Village was deserted and rightly so. We got to a large supermarket inside - don't ask which village - I was trying to get out of the rain! We looked around and thought maybe we would get take-away dinner here but the bakery on the corner of one of the buildings didn't have much to offer that looked fresh.

Back into the metro we eventually got out at Marx Dormoy and the weather had improved slightly. I turned and glanced over to your apartment Kerouac and waved 'Hello Kerouac!'
Around the corner into our old street, rue Torcy we notice the scaffolding is still up on Hotel Torcy. Going past a little Tabac I notice maps in the window. Dashing in I am pleased to at last get my hands on a 'Le Petit Parisien- 3 plans par arrondissement'.
I have forgotten the name & address of the patisserie we are looking for and ask the store owner if he knows where the 'prize-winning' bakery is. Dosn't know. As we continue walking an elderly gentleman catches up with us and says he knows and also tells us the baker sent president Sarkosy some of his baguettes and now sends to the palace on a regular basis. How true that is I don't know. He directs us a few yards further along into rue des Roses and there it is!
Right on the corner this attractive little bakery called L'Angelus, is doing a roaring trade even though it's late in the afternoon.
As I wait to be served, young school children are rushing in, kissing the baker and at the same time sticking their hands into the glass display counter and grabbing a baguette filled with all kinds of nice things. Gosh, there are so many they can't all be his kids - must be friends as well?!
I choose a baguette with a filling and three different pastries and we head for home.
It's only 5pm when we settle in for the night but we've done a lot today and are pretty tired. I've carted a bottle of Chablis with me all the way from Ireland because it cost so darn much, and it will be perfect with our picnic supper in front of the TV.

These photos are in no particular order as they were photgraphed over three days.

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I will carry on after loading more photos.................

Tod, I'm so glad I found your report, you have a very evocative writing style. It's easy to imagine you in my favorite city.

I'm also glad Ron and I had the opportunity to met you and Peter at the GTG on the 23rd. I'm sorry to hear Peter was ill but hope he was healthy for the rest of your trip. On that Tuesday of the heavy rains in Paris Ron fell going down the steps at a metro station. I guess there were too many things on his mind so he forgot to "mind his step"!!

Thank you again for the Nelson Mandela stamp set. It was such a thoughtful gift for all of us at the GTG.

I'm looking forward to reading more about your time in Paris. You are giving me some good ideas for our next visit. Deborah

Traveling along with you. Liked the slide show very much!

The weather can really screw up certain experiences -- and give you more reasons to return!

(Meanwhile I am aghast that the scaffolding is still on the Hôtel de Torcy. That's like 3 years now. My only guess is that the contractor went bankrupt.)

Tod, strange coincidence, I just went to the ENT yesterday--ear infection. Very painful, poor Peter, but I suppose staying in a hospital was reassuring.

Great pics!

what is the GTG?

Hi tod, this made my day. Again I will say how much I admire your energy and zest for life. You and Peter just go for it, however small or big. Moving all about, trying to see and experience so many things. Then, you come back and share them with all of us.

The photos are great. Glad you were prepared for the medical stuff. I always bring my bag of what ifs..

I look forward to the rest of the story.