Scotland Trip Report...
 

Two weeks in Scotland and I want to go back…
My family and I have just returned from a great visit in Scotland. It is an absolutely beautiful country and just full of friendly people. We landed at EDI and drove to Bridge of Allan. Noe, I did not get into the Butcher’s shop you recommended (bank holiday) but I did eat steak pie and it was delicious. We visited the Falkirk Wheel, Stirling Castle, and the Wallace Monument. We stayed our first two nights at the Kilronan Guest House with Colin and Linda George. I would recommend it to anyone.

We headed toward Glencoe Pass but stopped off at Balquidder to see the Rob Roy gravesite. I promised a friend we would bring back pictures. It was a fun side trip.
Glencoe was absolutely breathtaking even in the rain. We stayed one night at the Corran Inn midway between Glencoe and Ft. William. The Inn is located on the slipway to Corran Ferry. We rode over and back on the ferry just to get some pictures.

We headed to Mallaig for the ferry over to Skye. What a drive. We stopped at the monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie near Glenfinnan. We drove up to Portree on the Isle of Skye where we stayed at the Ben Tianavaig B&B for three nights. I wish we could have stayed longer. Gill and David Cudworth are the owners they run the friendliest place that we have ever seen. We hiked to the Old Man of Storr, met many wonder and friendly people. We did the tour at the Talisker Distillery. We visited Dunvegan Castle and drove around the northern part of the island. Skye is my kind of place; I can only wonder how it is in the winter time.

From Skye, we traveled to Ullapool to stay at the Dromnan Guesthouse. It is a very well run and comfortable B&B, my son loved their flat screen TV and digital satellite. I enjoyed their wireless internet. We took to cruise out to the Summer Isles. It was a fascinating trip with a visit to Tanera Mor Island. We also visited the Corrieshalloch Gorge for some great pictures from the swinging bridge.

We headed to Nairn, just north and west of Inverness for two nights. We stayed at the Invernairne Guesthouse on the beach of the Moray Firth. It was very comfortable and the owners have refurbished this old hotel. We visited Fort George in the cold rain. We decide after a bit, that Cawdor Castle might be better for the weather. It was my favorite castle of the trip. The next day we were off to Dromnadrochit for a short cruise on Loch Ness to take pictures of Uruquart Castle and a drive out to Glen Affric. Glen Affric was absolutely the most remote and beautiful place.

From Nairn, we drove down to Edinburgh for three nights at the Apartment By Castle. It was a wonderful place for three tourists to stay. We walked the Royal Mile (more than once), visited Holyrood Palace, the Britannia, Mary King’s Close and on our last day, took a train out to St. Andrews to watch the World Amateur Tournament on the Old Course.

We met many wonderful, friendly and interesting people. Once we got over the language barrier, heh, we found that two weeks is not enough. What a trip!

I'm glad you liked it. Good trip, sounds like!

Ah, takes me back to our Scotland trip two years ago. (Also planned with a lot of posts from Sheila, who I remembered when I saw her reply above.) DH and I, also loved Skye and the country in general. Can't wait to return someday!

Don't wait, then:)

book a ticket today.

Oh - I'm so glad it all worked out so well. I remember your first shot at a plan - weren't you trying to fit in York and other places??

Too bad about the weather at Ft George - that really is a place you need fine weather to explore.

Janisj:
Yes, we were looking to see York, and Hadrian's wall. Thanks to you and others, we limited this trip to Scotland. We are glad we did. I don't think this will be our last trip to either place. And, about the weather...we did not let it stop us. There are lots of things to see and do. Thanks for your help. This is one trip we will not forget.
Sheila:
Thanks for your many posts on this board. My family began to ask me "what do the ladies of Fodors" say about this or that. You guys are always spot on. You all made this a most enjoyable trip.

d1

PS: "the gentlemen of Fodors" whatever the case may be. Tehe

d1carter, loved your trip report. It's great to get a report when you've seen the trip planning. You did some off the beaten path things, and really made the most of your time there.

How fun to see a shout out your report! You'll just have to get those steak pies on the next visit (we ALL know there will be one).

I'm so glad that you made it to Glen Affric. It's a very special place. One year we stayed in Tomich for 2 nights and got such a great taste of the solitude and power of the glen. We hiked back into the glen and saw not one other person. The little post office in Tomich is open for a few hours on Tuesdays and Thursdays only, iirc. The bookmobile visited when we were there.

I think that it always rains in Glen Coe - it merely adds to the atmosphere that hangs over the glen, imo.

I certainly wouldn't put myself as one of the "ladies of Fodor's" but I am female :)

Sounds like you had fun! :)

3 days to go for me! I can't contain myself!

We're on our way soon for three nights in Portree and three nights in Edinburgh (at Apartment by Castle) ourselves, so your report was especially exciting to me. Did the midges give you much trouble? Any particular advice (things I wish I'd known; things I found out the hard way) to impart to other first-timers getting ready to follow in your footsteps?

Amelie:
I am a little jealous. Have fun, you are going to love it. All the best.

Crazy4Hawaii:
Look for our comments in the Vistor's book at the ABC. My best advice is to slow down, talk to people, ask questions about them and their families. Ask about pronunciations, admit that you haven't a clue. Get lost, have fun. All the best.

Noe:
Thanks for all your advice. Glen Affric is a special place. It is off the beaten path. We tried to do a taste of many things but we met so many nice people everywhere we went.
And we do know there is still more to see and do in Scotland.
All the best.
d1

Crazy4Hawaii:
We did meet the midges, but they were really no problem for us. We were outside most of each day and evening, but it really depends on where you are and wind conditions. Everyone there recommended Avon's Skin So Soft or regular bug repellant. We did not use anything. Could be the time of year. Have a great time.
d1

d1carter - We have just returned also and feel the way you do. This was our 3rd trip in 4 years. We drove the reverse, staying in upon arriveal in Perthshire (stunning)and driving counter clockwise. We visited the beautiful Isle of Mull for 2 nights visiting Duart Castle and Iona. Yes, it did rain for 4 1/2 days out of the 14 but you just get on with it.
Cawdor Castle was our favorite also, and the gardens and grounds are breathtaking. The Applecross drive (counter clockwise) was breathtaking and hairy. We loved the Torridon area, and the little town of Shielbeg. This was our rest stop and the sun was shining, and we stayed longer than we planned. The fighter jets on manoeuvers from Lossiemouth were flying very low over this area, this was truly a site.
We encountered truly wonderful people on this trip..not to mention that my better half lost his wallet on a rainy Saturday in Tobermory including 800 pounds and a passport. The good people at Highland Cottage reported it to the police, whilst we cancelled all credit cards, etc. The next day as we were on our way to Edinburgh and we received a call on our Roadpost cell phone (highly recommended) and it was a Tobermory policeman...they found the wallet, everything in tact. We returned to Oban again, took the ferry back to Craignure and 2 wonderful StrathClyde officers presented us with the wallet as we walked off the ferry.
Sorry, for droning on, but we were so moved by this gesture, and still are. All I can say is we will be returning yet again.

We will be on our way at the beginning of July - I am interested in the Roadpost cell phone that celticmoon mentioned - is this something you can rent? I'm a little worried about being out of touch on all the little roads.

Your trip sounds absolutely enchanting! I can't believe I have to wait until September to go. I haven't heard of Glen Affric - how far is it from Urquhart Castle?

Glen Urquhart runs west from Urquhart Castle/Drumnadrochit to Canninch and theer sort of intersects w/ Glen Affric

A guesstimate from Drumnadrichit to Cannich is about 10-11 miles and the road from there through Glen Affric is about the same or maybe a mile or two farther. So from Urquhart thru Glen Affric to the lodge is probably 25 miles total.

lifeofmytime:
janisj is right on the money, but it is that last half that is one track road that is a treat to drive. My teenage son kept thinking that we had a made a wrong turn and that we driving up someone's long driveway. It is absolutely beautiful out there. There is a car park at the end of the tarmac road and on the day we were there it was full. Do you need a guide for that September trip? Just kidding. Your going to love it. All the best.

JulieAA:
We have Cingular cells and we just got the International Roaming feature. We kept our same phones and same numbers. The calls are expensive ($1.29)a minute, I think. But we didn't use the phones that much on holiday. That's one of the reasons went go on holiday. We limited my teenage son's calls to girlfriend. But your right, a cell is handy to have to call ahead to B&B's and just in case. I really don't know about the Roadpost phones. There are bunches of threads on phones. Enjoy! All the best.

bookmarking

lifeofmytime, that 25 miles is slooow to drive, especially the single track part. You will want to be pulling over for pictures also! One time we were driving along and got forced off the track by an oncoming car who didn't stop or slow. We got stuck in the mud, but were able to push ourselves out. You'll see a few cars on the road, but if you hike you'll likely have the path to yourselves.

Glen Affric is a forest preserve and I think the largest stand of virgin/regenerated Scots pines in Scotland (most was cleared for agriculture/sheep farming) and it really feels <i>primeval</i> - the way Scotland likely looked thousands of years ago.
http://www.nnr-scotland.org.uk/reserve.asp?NNRId=17

If I get a chance, I'll try to upload some of my Glen Affric pictures, and post the link here.

Thanks to everyone for their responses - much appreciated. Noe847 - I'd love to see your photos. And d1carter - sorry to hijack your thread lol.

lifeofmytime:
It is no hijack, I want to see those pics as well. Tehe
d1

Thanks d1carter - I'll check with Cingular, which I have also, and see what it takes to add the international feature. I'll also do a search on phones.

I'd like to see the photos too! noe847, looking forward to it!

JulieAA:
We order a International phone from Roadpost whenever we travel. Roadpost programs the North American overseas codes, sends it by courier to our home approximately 1 week before we leave, and we return it by courier in a prepaid return envelope.
This method works for us as my partner has to check on his business daily, and return the odd call to Canada &amp; US.
We wouldn't be without a cell phone on vacation, and this time it was vital... when the Scottish police happened to phone whilst we were en route to Edinburgh to say a bicyclist found the lost wallet on the road and took it in the the local police station, and could we return to Mull and pick it up. YES!
(Read above).
You just have to check around and see what type of cellphone works for you.
www.roadpost.com

I've posted a bunch of pictures of Glen Affric at: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...d=8DZsmzZuzbN0
You should be able to click on &quot;view pictures&quot; and &quot;view as slideshow&quot; without having to sign in.

The first ones are of Tomich, and then the rest are from our drive into Glen Affric, the short walk that goes to the commemorative viewpoint, and a walk/hike we took back into the glen beyond where cars can drive. We walked up a hill for some great views. It was raining, hard at times, which made the scenery moody and the greens very fresh. When the rain stopped, we tried for a picnic snack of whisky and oatcakes(!) along the path but the midges found us and we hoofed it for the car.

My pictures from a previous visit are also lovely (slightly better weather) but aren't digital. Regardless, pictures don't do justice to the feel of the place.

noe847 - Thank you for sharing these beautiful photos. You are right...cameras do not capture the true feeling of the place, but your's did a excellent job.

Simply gorgeous! Thanks so much for posting.

Noe:
Thanks for the pics. I do appreciate your giving me a tip to Glen Affric. It made a memory for my family that we will not forget.
d1

Back in 1999, way before my days picking up great info from fellow Fodorites, I found out about the Glen and several of our other favorites in Scotland from the book <i>Scotland the Best</i> by Peter Irvine. It's still my Scotland &quot;bible&quot; and I make sure we have a current edition each time we go to Scotland.

Anyway, all these trip reports and prospective trips are making me envious! After going 3 of the past 5 years, there is no trip to Scotland on the horizon for us :( I'll just have to continue to live vicariously, I guess, so keep those reports coming!

Thank you, noe, for the pictures and thank you, d1carter, for a very enjoyable trip report.

celticmoon, thanks so much for the roadpost info. I'm going to check it out - already found out that my cingular phone is too old and won't work on international roaming.

Thanks for the great pix noe847.

Julie

Amazing Pictures Noe!!
Thank you for sharing

Here is a link to our Scotland favorite pics:
picasaweb.google.com/d01carter
Hope you like them!

Great pictures, d1carter. You had some really pretty weather on Skye and Glen Affric. It's also nice how the gray skies can bring the greens to life.

I'm trying to decide if the pictures make me miss being there more!

beautiful!

The weather gods shone on you for sure. I think it was my 3rd or 4th trip to Skye before I actually &quot;saw&quot; any of Skye. They don't call it the Misty Isle for nuthin . . . .

I remember standing there at Kilt Rock and sayiing &quot;I know there is a waterfall there somewhere&quot;

noe847 &amp; d1carter,

I should never have looked at your pictures. Scotland is calling me back. Is it possible to be homesick for a place that's not really home?

The photos are beautiful. Thanks for brightening my day.

Thanks for your comments. We are already talking about how we can go back for an extended visit. We have received some emails from folks we met there and yes, historytraveler, we are having that &quot;homesick&quot; feeling. I guess we will just have to live through Fodorites until we return?

You are right - absolutely beautiful- we took our third trip to Scotland in March this year(still haven't seen the Isle of Skye!). Beautiful country and people. This time we stayed in the Kingdom of Fife, in a little village near St. Andrews called Kilconqhuer. (can oo ker)
BTW...are midges some sort of bugs?

awesome pictures!

sandyatlanta! It's kin yuck er