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SDsunflower Jul 24th, 2018 07:11 AM

Scotland: 13 night itinerary help please!
 
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We are an active couple in our 60s and driving is fine (we did Ireland and survived).
I’ve read all I can find on Fodors and consulted with maitaitom , but our trip is a little longer...
Would love Experts help planning our visit!
Arrive morning May 30 in EDI
Leave June 13 from EDI.
We are coming for scenery, easy hiking, history and castles....
We thought to get car after a few days EDI and drive until June 12 and ditch car.

We DON’T want to rush around like maniacs , but do want to see Mull/Staffa , Skye for a few days,
Loch Lomond (so I can sing my childhood song and drive DH crazy) and Loch Ness,
Glencoe. Several castles along the way that are recommended .
We don’t need to see St Andrews: not a bucket list for DH.
We also don’t need to do “whisky tours”.


What do you recommend as a route?
Where to overnight?
One question: is trying to see Mull and Skye “too much” for our length of trip?
any favorite B&Bs?

Look forward to hearing from you so I can begin my anticipation and cut/pasting until we go!
thanks SO much

janisj Jul 24th, 2018 07:33 AM

Doable but a bit of a rush for all that. The good news is I think you will generally find the driving in Scotland easier than in Ireland.

Basically you have 14 nights/13.5 usable days. You could do something like 3 nights Edinburgh, 2 or 3 nights in the general Trossachs/Loch Lomond area, 2 or 3 nights on Mull (three would be better because it takes time to get there), 3 nights on Skye, 1 night in Glencoe, and either the last night at EDI if the flight is early, or someplace like Perth or Stirling being an easy drive to EDI if the flight is after say 11AM.

That leaves no time for Inverness, which ain't a big loss BTW. You'd miss out on Culloden but more than make up for it with all the other glorious sites you'll see.

What time is your flight out of EDI? - that will make a difference where to spend the last night and when to ditch the car.

(I'd opt for Mull and Skye over only one island + Inverness)

Gardyloo Jul 24th, 2018 09:42 AM

We all have our preferred routes and destinations in Scotland; Janis is very fond of Callendar and the Trossachs, and I'm predisposed to Argyll - Inveraray and Kilmartin - for example. It's all good and there are no right or wrong choices. Much will depend on your willingness to do some study and weigh the options. Let me recommend Undiscovered Scotland - https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/ - as a good starting place for your research.

Here's my "default" route that would cover your aims - https://goo.gl/maps/FkKKviCNcgr . It is, of course, one of a near-infinite number of options. In this case you'd start by heading to Inveraray and Kilmartin in Argyll, for a couple of castles, picturesque villages, and amazing prehistoric relics in the process. You'd travel alongside Loch Lomond so you could serenade your companion.

Then it's over to Mull from Oban, passing by one of the most iconic castles in the country (Duart Castle overlooking the approach to Mull) and spend some time on that lovely (and very remote-feeling) island. When you've finished touring Mull, take the ferry from Tobermory back to the mainland (yeah, it's still an island) and head north to Mallaig for the Skye ferry. Tour Skye, then make your way past THE iconic Highland castle (Eilean Donan) back to the A82 at the Great Glen. If you want to detour a short distance north to Loch Ness, just to say you've seen it (don't get your expectations up) then fine, otherwise head south through Fort William to Glen Coe.

I've included another personal preference, Fortingall, on the route back to Edinburgh. Fortingall is a picturesque village (ostensibly the birthplace of Pontius Pilate) with a very ancient yew tree (ostensibly the oldest living thing in Britain and/or Europe) and some cool and unusual thatched roof buildings, also an excellent hotel. Fortingall is at the opening of Glen Lyon, one of the most beautiful "off-the-beaten-path" glens in Scotland (like Glen Etive, also on the map) and is well worth a couple of hours' exploring. Then back to Edinburgh.

I'd suggest roughly the same timing as Janis does, but swapping a night in Callendar with one in, say, Inveraray, and the other Callendar night for Fortingall, but this is entirely your call. Don't go on Google's road time estimates; they're notoriously understated. However, also remember that you'll be roughly the same latitude as Juneau, Alaska, so daylight hours in May and June are VERY long. If you plan to go roaming through the gloaming, one word - midges. Buy some bug juice before you leave Edinburgh.

Sberg Jul 24th, 2018 09:52 AM

We did a two week driving tour of Scotland last September and loved it. I can give you an idea of where we stayed. We flew into Inverness and out of EDI. We stayed 3 nights on Skye at The Snug (The Snug | Contact). It was near Portree and a great place to view the north of the island. We loved it! The host was wonderful and gave us wonderful tips on where and how to travel. Don't miss Fairy Glen and the Quirang!

We stayed 2 nights on Mull. I wish we had stayed one more (as we had one beautiful day and one day of torrential rain so we could not go to Staffa). We stayed at a place called High Oatfield B & B. If was pretty close to the Craignure ferry so was a good location to tour the entire island. We visited the Glengorm Castle and if we ever go back I would love to stay there. They have fabulous walking trails there and you will even see standing stones.

We also spent two nights in Onich, which is right across the bridge from Glencoe. We stayed at Lochview Guesthouse (Home - Lochview Guesthouse near Fort William). It was absolutely beautiful! It was funny as Glencoe was very cloudy and overcast both days we went over there to hike, but when we crossed the bridge back to Onich the sun was out. We had a fabulous view of the water as well as some Highland Cows right outside our window.

You will love Scotland and its people. Have a fabulous trip!

SDsunflower Jul 24th, 2018 12:08 PM

Thank you So much Janis, Gardyloo and Sberg!!!! This is great advice! Terrific map Gardyloo: greatly appreciated!


We will research a lot pre-trip , but for starters, so I hopefully won’t have too many final questions:

3 nights Edinburgh: flight arrive 10:30 for we have 1/2 day. B&B suggestions for Edinburgh?
Any place suggested to rent the car?

2 nights Trossachs or area Gardyloo mentioned before Mull: any B&B suggestions? Which is better location to choose so we can catch ferry when we leave to Mull?

3 nights Mull: is it easy to get car ferry and drive yourselves around? Any B&B ideas in addition to sberg’s one?

Gardyloo mentioned ferry to Mallaig: I didn’t know this was doable ! Would love suggestions if this takes all day, as to when to catch ferry to ultimately get to Skye
3 nights Skye: B&B suggestions besides the one mentoned by sberg? Also maitaitom stayed at Collins and liked it.

1 night Glencoe or area: is this Callander you liked Janis? (Roman Camp hotel?) or Fortingall?
B&B ideas if only 1 night
1 night before flight from EDI: it leaves at 12:30 , so Stirling or Perth? Hotel/B&B ideas?
Drop car before flight home

our trip shortened by 1 night due to flight modification.
Hope for more ideas from you all and know how much we appreciate all the assistance for this trip!

janisj Jul 24th, 2018 02:46 PM

>>B&B suggestions for Edinburgh?<<. Budget?

>>Any place suggested to rent the car?<< Collect your car out at EDI -- driving iIN Edinburgh is a beee-atch.

>>3 nights Mull: is it easy to get car ferry and drive yourselves around? Any B&B ideas<<

Not sure what you mean by is it 'easy'? A ferry is the only way to get there. My favorite B&B on Mull is bed and breakfast Isle of Mull,Seaview B&B accommodation,for,Isle of Iona It is a short walk to the foot ferry to Iona and boats to Staffa, etc.

You need to get a map ;) -- both Mull and Skye are islands, so yes there are ferries. Most people take the ferry one way and the bridge the other direction when traveling to/from Skye. But a ferry is the ONLY way you can get to Mull.

The reason I usually recommend the Callander area (and yes, the Roman Camp is quite good) is not because of the town itself. It is the biggest town in the area so has lots of accommodations. But te main reason is it is a very central base for Loch Lomond, Stirling, Inchmahome, Doune, Killin, Loch Katrine, many other Lochs, and great scenery. Kilmartin that part of Argyll are also good - You could do both Something like: Edinburgh > Callander or Aberfoyle > Kilmartin > Mull > Skye > then either through Glencoe or down via Perth instead > EDI

3 nts Edinburgh, 2 nts Callander or Aberfoyle, 2 nts Kilmartin, 2 nts Fionnphort, 3 nts skye, 1 nt Glencoe or Dunkeld depending on your final route, and the last night at EDI.

​​​​​​​You would want the CalMac hopscotch #7 package https://www.calmac.co.uk/hopscotch-7...namurchan-skye

janisj Jul 24th, 2018 02:53 PM

And by 'at EDI' I don't really mean at the airport - though that is also an option. But I'd personally want to stay up along the firth in Queensferry or even in central Edinburgh. Transport from the city center to EDI is easy by coach, tram, or taxi.

SDsunflower Jul 24th, 2018 03:56 PM

😆 😂
yes, I wasn’t clear.... I know Mull and Skye are islands and need ferries😎....
i meant is it best to stay on Mull taking car across via ferry or stay in Oban and do day trip there: 2or 3 nights we had thought regardless.
The Mull b&b was booked ( shockingly this far in advance)...
if Mull is preferred as overnights, do you like The Castle B&B there? We could splurge if terrific experience.

Thank you for asking about budget:
we are ok as long as not more than $250 GBP if special places. Usually we try for lodging no more than around $300 USD . Great location, quiet and clean with WiFi and lovely hosts preferred. We often use vrbo rentals but only if someone we know highly recommends. We like b&b as we prefer to meet congenial hosts rather than stodgy impersonal places.

thank you !!

janisj Jul 24th, 2018 04:14 PM

>>The Mull b&b was booked ( shockingly this far in advance)...<<. :(

Not Shockingly though . . . it is that good.

I would definitely stay ON Mull and not do day trips there and back. Oban is OK . . . but it doesn't hold a candle to Mull.

Glengorm Castle is lovely -- it is fairly remote - but most of Mull is fairly remote.

For a couple of nights in the Callander area look at both the Roman Camp and the Lake hotel http://www.lake-hotel.com

Sberg Jul 24th, 2018 04:53 PM

We took the bridge over to Skye and the ferry off. We then had a beautiful drive to the ferry to Mull which landed in Tobermory. Glengorm Castle is not far from Tobermory. We took the Craignur ferry off of Mull to Oban and then drove to Onich ( near Glencoe) which was not too far. We drove to Callandar from there and visited Loch Lomond on the way. EDI is not that long a drive from Callandar or Stirling.

Rent your car at EDI. The drop off there was quite easy ( and I imagine the pick up would be too) and there is a tram right there to bring you into the city. They had the best transport system we have ever used and it is quite simple.

I would definitely try for 2 to 3 nights on Skye and Mull if possible. They are both beautiful! I know Janis won’t agree with me but I would cut a night from Callendar if you had to but that is all personal preference.

Really look at a map of Mull prior to booking. Staying near Iona for one night would be great but it is a long way from Tobermory. I would not have wanted to stay on that end for more than one night.

SDsunflower Jul 25th, 2018 07:14 AM

Thank you all so much! Terrific ideas and details!
Anyone have a suggestion for a great B&B or small boutique hotel in good location in Edinburgh? Millers64 was highly recommended. Any others more central?
any for Stirling for overnight before flight?



Janis and Gardyloo: (Or others?):
from Edinburgh, you would overnight 2 nights first in Callander or Inverary/Killmartin and then be able to catch ferry to Mull?

then overnight Fortingall or Stirling before flight home from EDI the next day? We would need to be at airport I am guessing by 9:30 for the 1230 flight.

3 Edinburgh
2 Trossachs/or Argyll for Loch Lomond area. Roman Camp or Lake hotel suggested so far: any others? Drive to catch ferry next morning
3 Mull: perhaps Glengorm (sp?) castle
3 Skye
1 Glencoe: Onich suggested by sberg. Any others ?
1 Stirling or Fortingall : which best to be able to get to EDI next morning? Lodging ideas?
Fly home

is this reasonable plan?

Gardyloo Jul 25th, 2018 07:49 AM

I would stay closer to Edinburgh than either Stirling or Fortingall if you're flying out at 12:30. My own choice for an airport-area hotel is the Dakota in South Queensferry - Edinburgh Hotels | Edinburgh Airport Hotels | Dakota Hotel Edinburgh . It ain't quaint, but it's comfy as hell and they now have a shuttle to the airport (an unusual thing in the UK) so you could turn in the car the night before if you chose to. You might also look at other accommodations in the South Queensferry "village" under the iconic Forth bridges. Queensferry is a very historic and atmospheric place, with some excellent restaurants and marvelous views (and Robert Louis Stevenson connections - he wrote parts of Kidnapped while housed in the old Hawes Inn.)

As to whether to go with the Trossachs or the Argyll options, I'd say do some research and see what appeals more.

SDsunflower Jul 25th, 2018 08:37 AM

Thanks so much for the help Gardyloo!
queensferry Dakota sounds great!
any places anyone likes for Edinburgh lodging?
such wonderful help all of you have given us!

janisj Jul 25th, 2018 08:49 AM

I differ -- with that late a flight you could stay just about anywhere. Nothing wrong with Queensferry. But Stirling to EDI is a very quick 30 mile drive -- all by motorway. Even in heavy traffic it seldom takes more than 45 mins and usually just about 35 mins. You would be driving after the morning rush.

SDsunflower Jul 25th, 2018 08:57 AM

Thank you Janis! If we stay at Stirling (perhaps seeing Castle before the evening on drive down from Glencoe), any place you recommend to stay for hotel?
also; on way back , you suggested 1 not at Glencoe or Dunkeld: any lodging recommendations?
still hoping for Edinburgh recommendation for lodging... for first 3 nights.
thank you all again!

janisj Jul 25th, 2018 09:07 AM

If you can get in - the Clachaig in Glencoe for absotively 100% sure https://clachaig.com. (but they do book up)

In Dunkeld -- If you can get it in your budget the Dunkeld House which is a povely/posh hotel and also a Hilton Grand Vacations resort Dunkeld House Hotel - A Luxury 4 star Country House Hotel in Perthshire, Scotland | Dunkeld House Hotel - Short Breaks and Holiday Accommodation in Perthshire Scotland

For cheaper - the Atholl Arms Dunkeld hotels | hotels in Dunkeld | best Dunkeld restaurants | Dunkeld hotel in Perthshire |

janisj Jul 25th, 2018 09:18 AM

For Edinburgh -- again - if you can get it in your budget -- Fraser Suites. It is steps from St Giles Cathedral an easy walk up to the Castle and down the Royal Mile, and a steep-ish walk down to Princess street (and a VERY steep walk back up :) ) https://edinburgh.frasershospitality.com/en

There are several hotels in all budgets and many rental flats all up and down the Royal Mile which would be my preference for a first time visit because probably 70% of the 'must see's' are in Old Town. This site has two lovely flats on Lady Stair's Close in an AMAZING location on the Royal Mile steps from the Whisky center, the Witchery, the Castle, Gladstone's Land etc. https://www.edinburgh-selfcatering.c...inburgh-castle -- Only problem is they are three flights up if that is an issue.

SDsunflower Jul 25th, 2018 01:36 PM

Janis: thank you so much for all your advice and the multiple replies to my (unfortunately!) many questions!
a few too many stairs with luggage for us with Lady Stairs.
Fraser is a possibility....
Maitaitom stayed at Millers64 : a 15 minute walk. Not sure how he found it .... a fraction of the cost of the other places and he loved it. You don’t think a good idea?

Hope I understood last ideas from you Janis: Dunkeld for last night?
Dunkeld house hotel looks perfect for our last night! Beautiful place to end trip . Will check route to airport .
I’m checking Clachaig in Glencoe now....

looking at routes (one final time for which direction of the loop first:
3 nights edinburgh
then drive up to Callander and stay Roman Camp hotel 2 nights
then continue up to GLencoe and stay 1 night : the Clachaig
to Skye for 3 nights. TBD which place: The Snug mentioned by sberg, also Cullin hills by Maitaitom
then ferry from Skye to Mull : stay 3 nights
then ferry back to mainland and head to Dunkeld for last night? I need to see if Dunkeld close enough to get to EDI: Around an hour but maps are deceiving. .

Or better to head west part of loop first : if so, can you get to ferry from Roman Camp on same day to get ferry to Mull? And then continue to Skye as suggested and loop to Glencoe after , then get to Dunkeld....?

hard to tell from maps. Thanks!

historytraveler Jul 25th, 2018 02:01 PM

I recently returned from trip to Edinburgh. Have been so many times, I’ve lost count and have stayed in any number of hotels. For several years, I stayed at the Balmoral, but with family traveling with me and needing two rooms, The Balmoral was out of the question. I ended up booking Fraser Suites in part due to previous recommendation by janisj along with a little personal research. In short, we love it. So for someone used to staying at The Balmoral, Fraser Suites worked out beautifully. You can’t beat the location.

bdokeefe Jul 25th, 2018 02:16 PM

I'm not sure how Dunkeld will work for a night's stay before you fly, BUT...I love that town. The walking trails around the cathedral are beautiful, as are the ones further down river.

Check out the beer garden @ the Atholl Arms, it's across from the hotel, next to the bridge, overlooking the river. We enjoyed our 2 night stay.

SDsunflower Jul 26th, 2018 11:49 AM

Thanks you history traveler and bdokeefe!
Feeling much better about route and lodging options, thanks to all of you who replied!

3 nights Edinburgh
2 nights Callander: Roman camp hotel
3 Mull: Glengorm castle hopefully
3 Skye: Cullins hotel suggested
1 Glencoe : trying for Clachaig
1 night before flight: probably Dakota in QUeensferry

maitaitom Jul 26th, 2018 02:57 PM

Yes, Dakota was great for a last night place to get reorganized for the long flight home. It looks like an office building from the outside, but the inside is lovely, the rooms fairly large, the staff friendly and our bed was stupendous. Also, they had a good restaurant and a good bar. Pretty much all we could ask for on our last night.

((H))

SDsunflower Jul 27th, 2018 06:13 AM

Thanks Tom! Sealed the deal at the Dakota

Need to keep cutting route:

hope 3 nights in Edinburgh will suffice, even though many suggest 4 (we’ll have 2 1/2 days)
2 Callander
2 Mull (is this still doable? Or too much a stretch for only 2 nights?)
3 Skye
1 or 2 ??? Glencoe or Dunkeld???
1 Dakota hotel pre-flight home

Experts: which seems best to you? We know all will be great, no matter what, but would love your thoughts...
Almost have a “plan”...
thanks again to all who have given us their advice!

PS: my close friend lived in Scotland a year and has visited many times... when I asked her advice, all she said was “I never went to Mull. Edinburgh needs more time.. Stay in as many castles as you can”...
NOT a great help. :)

janisj Jul 27th, 2018 09:16 AM

I agree Edinburgh needs more time - . . . in a perfect world. But you simply don't have it. And if you stay in a well located property you can see a LOT in 2.5 days without running ragged.

2 nights on Mull isn' perfect but it is better than 90% of people get because they are day trippers over from from Oban. If you do only have the 2 nights - with a relatively early start - you could still get to Mull by lunch time since Callander to Oban is about a 2 hr drive -- then the ferry.

one night in Glencoe and 1 night in Dunkeld would be lovely.

SDsunflower Jul 27th, 2018 09:34 AM

Thank you again Janis!!

I’ve been studying maps/routes and wondered ....

We could add a night in Edinburgh if better: 4 nights
We could cut staying overnight in Callander area....?
drive direct from EDI to Glencoe: visit Loch Lomond , Stirling Castle, and Doune etc, along the way. Sleep Glencoe (or only 1 night and add a night to Mull for 3 nights?)
then get to ferry for Mull next day: 2 nights
then ferry and drive combo to Skye. 3 nts
drive via Dunkeld for overnight on way back down 1 night. Visit various things we missed before sleeping there
final night as planned: Queensferry

how would that be?
4 Edinburgh
1 or 2 Glencoe
2 or 3 Mull
3 Skye
1 Dunkeld
1 QUeensferry

Your help has been stupendous ! The visuals along the way (looking at undiscoveredscotland and various blogs etc) have helped, but only you Experts know the conditions of the routes for best visuals. I read heading to Glencoe from the south is better route than coming from Skye, I have NO idea!) :)

janisj Jul 27th, 2018 09:46 AM

I wouldn't myself. The drive from EDI to Glencoe with just a teensy detour to Killin will take close to 5 hours - so with a 2 hour stop at Stirling (about minimum to see the basics) and say 45 mins at Doune you are talking an 8 hour travel day. And likely longer with all the photo ops and if you include a drive down the beautiful Glen Etive - it will be a 10+ hour day.

I'd stick to the previous plan. Edinburgh is a lovely city but pretty much everything you'll want to see is in the center so you really can see a LOT in 2.5 days.

maitaitom Jul 27th, 2018 11:58 AM

"so with a 2 hour stop at Stirling (about minimum to see the basics) and say 45 mins at Doune."

... and don't forget Inchmahome Priory. We coupled that with Stirling and Doune (don't forget those coconuts!) on our drive from Edinburgh to Callander. Inchmahome was a gorgeous, tranquil stop ... even with the short boat ride in the rain.

((H))

SDsunflower Jul 27th, 2018 12:08 PM

Thanks so much Maitai and Janis!!!

sticking to route !

only part still wasn’t sure about.... ????????
stay 1 night Callander (Roman Camp) and then have 3 for Mull?? A lot of “one night stands”. ;)
on way home post Skye : 1 Glencoe
1 Dunkeld
1 Queensferry

janisj Jul 27th, 2018 02:51 PM

Three nights would be great for Mull -- but I would do 2 and 2.

Around Callander are : Inchmahome, Stirling castle, Doune castle, Loch Lomond (IMO those 4 are musts). Then there is Loch Katrine (the Sir Walter Scott steamer cruise on the Loch), many other lochs, waterfalls, and other scenic bits..

OR . . . do 2 Callander and 3 Mull, move everything forward one day and drop either Dunkeld or Queensferry.

maitaitom Jul 27th, 2018 04:58 PM

This post is really making me miss Scotland ... Inchmahome

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c552f383ee.jpg

SDsunflower Jul 27th, 2018 07:29 PM

Wow! What a photo! Can’t wait!!
i hope my questions help others so that Janis doesn’t have to work so hard next time!��

got it!

3 Edinburgh : Millers64
2 callander. Roman camp if they reply
2 mull: Glengorm Castle. Heard from
3 skye. Cullin HIlls
1 glencoe. Claidag (sp) as per Janis
1 ????
1 Queensferry : Dakota

Perhaps crazy, but Maitaitom ‘s photos on his fantastic TR, now has us looking at maybe swinging East on way south to get to Queensferry for final night.... we could swing East and see Donnatar perhaps and end near St Andrews so DH can see it Have to look at distances again and see if route is lovely and different from going to Dunkeld overnight

i can at least contact lodging now
still waiting to hear from Claidag at Glencoe (so?) for a few days now and ditto with Roman camp hotel. Cullin Hills in Skye looked great: if Tom and his group loved it, I am sold.
Thanks to all!!! This helped me collect my thoughts !!

Gardyloo Jul 28th, 2018 06:35 AM

I know we're in danger of beating your itinerary to death, and honestly I haven't looked upthread to see how many versions we've been through, but in view of this last post, let me offer some modifications, possibly risking stepping on some toes, but there you go...

First, a map showing your (approximate) current route as I understand it: https://goo.gl/maps/BiQZ3NJtXuu

Now first, there's nothing wrong with this route. These are all terrific places. The longest day is going to be the Mull to Skye transit, as you'll be on single-track roads for much of the trip, plus two ferries to navigate. However (if I've got it right) you'll be retracing your steps between Callendar/Stirling and Edinburgh.

But in light of your last post, here's an amendment just to consider. https://goo.gl/maps/t8PCwXQ6dHs

Here's the revised timetable:

1 Edinburgh
2 Edinburgh
3 Edinburgh
4 Callendar
5 Glen Coe
6 Mull
7 Mull
8 Mull
9 Skye
10 Skye
11 Aberfeldy/Fortingall
12 St Andrews/Crail
13 Edinburgh

Now the reason for this rather drastic re-drawing of the map is simple enough. You've only got so many nights and your aim has always been (or so it seems) to see as much variety as you can. But as with all travel, the question arises about what economists call "opportunity costs," i.e. the question of what are you missing in order to accommodate X. Is another night in the Trossachs worth more than another night in the western Highlands or Inner Hebrides, and is that night worth more than one in a fishing village on the North Sea? Unanswerable of course, and unfortunately you won't know which experience delivers more bang for the buck in your own terms.

And I'm going to commit a big sin by saying that for many people, the kinds of scenery and experiences you're going to get on Mull and on Skye are pretty similar. The landscapes are the same, the historic and cultural context is pretty much the same, the weather's the same... you get it.

Then contrast that with Tayside and Fife (the areas farther east). The landscape is fairly different - more forested and agricultural, the towns are bigger and older, the North Sea is very different from the Atlantic, the history is quite different... So while there might not be the same visual punch as the western Highlands and Mull/Skye can deliver, the other aspects - the picturesque villages, the forested glens... well, many people find these areas to be just as enjoyable, in their own way, as the west. Will you? No way to know unless...

So this timetable would include an overnight in Aberfeldy or (my old fave) Fortingall, followed by a procession through the Tay valley (or farther north through Angus, e.g. Glamis Castle) down to St. Andrews, then back to Edinburgh via the impossibly picturesque "East Neuk" fishing villages like Crail or Pittenweem. The tradeoff is only one night in Callendar, but I'd move the Glen Coe night up so that you'd still have plenty of time in that general area for sightseeing. Again, it comes down to how you spend your days as much as where you spend your nights.

Fortingall Hotel with (one of several nearby) standing stones -

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...202b176925.jpg

Pittenweem Harbour

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed79761db1.jpg

The drive from Skye to Aberfeldy or Fortingall looks long on the map, but because you're on main roads for much of the trip, it's not terribly time consuming and can easily be done in a pleasant day. The Mull to Skye day is still the longest (ignore Google's time estimates of course) because of the ferries. I've put Mull back at three nights and Skye at two, but this can be reversed once you've decided what you want to do on each island. (And to be brutally frank if it was me I'd scrap Skye altogether as Mull - to me - offers such variety once you add Iona and Staffa into the mix.)

So yeah, another brainstorm, and sorry for adding any confusion into the mix, or over-gilding the lily. Like I said, your current plan is perfectly serviceable.

janisj Jul 28th, 2018 08:27 AM

With all due respect Gardyloo -- but your new suggestion muddies the waters immensely. Every single place you recommend is wonderful - worthwhile - a must see. BUT it would also require 4 one-night stands, cut Skye back to one day and not give enough time to see places like Inchmahome. To do any sort of justice to the Trossachs, Fife, Perthshire etc this would have to be a three week road trip - not 10 days.

It is a big country with hundreds of 'musts'. One simply has to bite the bullet and realize on a short visit there are limits to what one can see.

Gardyloo Jul 28th, 2018 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by janisj (Post 16769455)
With all due respect Gardyloo -- but your new suggestion muddies the waters immensely. Every single place you recommend is wonderful - worthwhile - a must see. BUT it would also require 4 one-night stands, cut Skye back to one day and not give enough time to see places like Inchmahome. To do any sort of justice to the Trossachs, Fife, Perthshire etc this would have to be a three week road trip - not 10 days.

It is a big country with hundreds of 'musts'. One simply has to bite the bullet and realize on a short visit there are limits to what one can see.

I respect your views of course, Janis, and we both know our traveling styles are different. I did say that this was all in the way of a thought experiment, so the OP is quite free to disagree. But when the OP talked about Dunnottar Castle and St Andrews in post no. 31, I just ran with the idea. The OP said they didn't want to "rush around like maniacs" as she discussed up front; so personally I'd drop one of the islands, in my case Skye, so that more variety could be added to the mix.

SDsunflower Jul 28th, 2018 05:01 PM

Thank you thank you thank you! OMG... such great choices,,, but DH has finally given his preference
I can’t believe all your thoughtfulness , especially in even mapping out possible routes...
Yes,,, Gardyloo, after asking my DH to look look look at routes and places of interest to him, he doesn’t want to miss Dunnottar Castle nor the Fife seaside , due to his history interest.
so,,, I thought it was a done deal, but
he wants to see that Eastern North Sea and seaside of Fife on way back back post Skye.


I don’t want to lose 3 in Skye nor 3 in Mull, as won’t have time to see Staffa/Treshnish otherwise from Mull and Skye has been a definite from the beginning.
Gardyloo: probably Fortingall too middle of area. Stay where instead ?

3 Edinburgh
1 nights only Callander or Inverary area: Stirling , Doune, Priory, Loch Lomond definite
3 Mull
3 Skye
2 nights to see Glencoe on way to Cairngorm (sp?) region and stop ???
we can deal with 1 night stays as best to create the loop.
get to see Dunnottar, Blair, Uruquart castles and outside of others and head southeast to see FIfe region/St Andrews before last night sleeping at Dakota in Queensferry.

janisj Jul 28th, 2018 06:24 PM

>>he wants to see that Eastern North Sea and seaside of Fife on way back back post Skye.<<

>>I don’t want to lose 3 in Skye nor 3 in Mull, as won’t have time to see Staffa/Treshnish otherwise from Mull and Skye has been a definite from the beginning.<<

>>get to see Dunnottar, Blair, Uruquart castles and outside of others and head southeast to see FIfe region/St Andrews before last night sleeping at Dakota in Queensferry.<<

Unfortunately these are incompatible hopes/wishes in 10 days

Ditch the cairngorms -- they are just mountains and you will have seen more/better elsewhere.

Since we are totally redoing everything . . . Here is my idea: Cut Edinburgh to 2 nights and do your plan in reverse.

• 2 nights Edinburgh,
• 1 night in Fife. Drive along the Fife coast and spend the night in either St Andrews or Crail.
• 1 night Ballater (shorter drive) or Grantown-on-Spey (longer drive) either would be doable. Visit Dunnottar and any one additional of many castles in the area. Fraser, Craigevar, etc.
• 3 nights Skye. Grantown on Spey to Portree via Urquhart is about a 4 hour drive plus stops.
• 3 nights Mull
• 2 nights near Callander
• last night Queenferry.

This reduces your one nighters and shortens several day drives. The only really long drive is Ballater or Grantown to Skye.

Gardyloo Jul 29th, 2018 05:41 AM

I like Janis' idea of a counter- (or anti-) clockwise loop. Just recognize that you're going to be spending a fair number of hours behind the wheel. This also probably scrambles your lodging plan, so I'd be firming up a "final" itinerary and researching lodging options asap.

Are you familiar with the "street view" option using Google Maps? That's where you can use the little "yellow man" icon to give you a car's-eye view of the road, and Google's coverage throughout Scotland is excellent. Look here for example - https://goo.gl/maps/Td6y9uiTxUp

I'd strongly urge you to get comfortable with this and use it to "preview" the routes you might take. You can see, within the limits of the web, of course, whether things look similar or different, just as a way to see what you might be seeing in the flesh. It's a very useful tool.

SDsunflower Jul 29th, 2018 05:46 AM

Your patience is SO much appreciated Janis and Gardyloo especially!!!!!!!
Too little time, i do realize but thankfully, DH finally looked at some history/photos on internet yesterday and looked at Maitaitom’s excellent TR and adventure, and expressed desire not to miss the East due to its history and the differences in scenery....

Going to be reading a lot today ....
We’ll just recalculate route in Janis’ direction and manage with 2 nights in Edinburgh: tricky but doable....

hopefully, all your help will be used by the “silent” readers on Fodors who don’t post but read for itinerary ideas.
Too bad this one can’t be “pasted” somewhere on the Board to save all of you wonderfullly helpful
”Experts” from answering these itinerary questions over and over again....

I’ll find lodging and let you know what I find: this is more to hopefully let other readers see what we decide on...
If anyone sees this last post ( I feel badly to keep asking...), any favorite lodging for Gantown on Spey or Crail or St Andrews?

again, my utmost thanks for all your help Janis and Gardyloo especially!

kolaniasty Aug 7th, 2018 01:26 PM

HI

For me Glen Coe and abslolutely you must see Isle of Skye.I was with May family in early MAy on the Isle of Skye. We lived in Glenelg, on land, but every day we moved by ferry. A great thing :) In total, I will not write much.
Just see for youself:

mnag Aug 9th, 2018 09:28 AM

Haven't read all the posts - but if you are looking for accommodation near Glencoe - we stayed at the Airds Hotel in Argyll which is a real gem. Also highly recommend the Cullins Hotel in Skye. Hope you have a wonderful trip. Scotland is magical.


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