Scotland: 13 night itinerary help please!
 

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We are an active couple in our 60s and driving is fine (we did Ireland and survived).
I’ve read all I can find on Fodors and consulted with maitaitom , but our trip is a little longer...
Would love Experts help planning our visit!
Arrive morning May 30 in EDI
Leave June 13 from EDI.
We are coming for scenery, easy hiking, history and castles....
We thought to get car after a few days EDI and drive until June 12 and ditch car.

We DON’T want to rush around like maniacs , but do want to see Mull/Staffa , Skye for a few days,
Loch Lomond (so I can sing my childhood song and drive DH crazy) and Loch Ness,
Glencoe. Several castles along the way that are recommended .
We don’t need to see St Andrews: not a bucket list for DH.
We also don’t need to do “whisky tours”.


What do you recommend as a route?
Where to overnight?
One question: is trying to see Mull and Skye “too much” for our length of trip?
any favorite B&Bs?

Look forward to hearing from you so I can begin my anticipation and cut/pasting until we go!
thanks SO much

Doable but a bit of a rush for all that. The good news is I think you will generally find the driving in Scotland easier than in Ireland.

Basically you have 14 nights/13.5 usable days. You could do something like 3 nights Edinburgh, 2 or 3 nights in the general Trossachs/Loch Lomond area, 2 or 3 nights on Mull (three would be better because it takes time to get there), 3 nights on Skye, 1 night in Glencoe, and either the last night at EDI if the flight is early, or someplace like Perth or Stirling being an easy drive to EDI if the flight is after say 11AM.

That leaves no time for Inverness, which ain't a big loss BTW. You'd miss out on Culloden but more than make up for it with all the other glorious sites you'll see.

What time is your flight out of EDI? - that will make a difference where to spend the last night and when to ditch the car.

(I'd opt for Mull and Skye over only one island + Inverness)

We all have our preferred routes and destinations in Scotland; Janis is very fond of Callendar and the Trossachs, and I'm predisposed to Argyll - Inveraray and Kilmartin - for example. It's all good and there are no right or wrong choices. Much will depend on your willingness to do some study and weigh the options. Let me recommend Undiscovered Scotland - https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/ - as a good starting place for your research.

Here's my "default" route that would cover your aims - https://goo.gl/maps/FkKKviCNcgr . It is, of course, one of a near-infinite number of options. In this case you'd start by heading to Inveraray and Kilmartin in Argyll, for a couple of castles, picturesque villages, and amazing prehistoric relics in the process. You'd travel alongside Loch Lomond so you could serenade your companion.

Then it's over to Mull from Oban, passing by one of the most iconic castles in the country (Duart Castle overlooking the approach to Mull) and spend some time on that lovely (and very remote-feeling) island. When you've finished touring Mull, take the ferry from Tobermory back to the mainland (yeah, it's still an island) and head north to Mallaig for the Skye ferry. Tour Skye, then make your way past THE iconic Highland castle (Eilean Donan) back to the A82 at the Great Glen. If you want to detour a short distance north to Loch Ness, just to say you've seen it (don't get your expectations up) then fine, otherwise head south through Fort William to Glen Coe.

I've included another personal preference, Fortingall, on the route back to Edinburgh. Fortingall is a picturesque village (ostensibly the birthplace of Pontius Pilate) with a very ancient yew tree (ostensibly the oldest living thing in Britain and/or Europe) and some cool and unusual thatched roof buildings, also an excellent hotel. Fortingall is at the opening of Glen Lyon, one of the most beautiful "off-the-beaten-path" glens in Scotland (like Glen Etive, also on the map) and is well worth a couple of hours' exploring. Then back to Edinburgh.

I'd suggest roughly the same timing as Janis does, but swapping a night in Callendar with one in, say, Inveraray, and the other Callendar night for Fortingall, but this is entirely your call. Don't go on Google's road time estimates; they're notoriously understated. However, also remember that you'll be roughly the same latitude as Juneau, Alaska, so daylight hours in May and June are VERY long. If you plan to go roaming through the gloaming, one word - midges. Buy some bug juice before you leave Edinburgh.

We did a two week driving tour of Scotland last September and loved it. I can give you an idea of where we stayed. We flew into Inverness and out of EDI. We stayed 3 nights on Skye at The Snug (The Snug | Contact). It was near Portree and a great place to view the north of the island. We loved it! The host was wonderful and gave us wonderful tips on where and how to travel. Don't miss Fairy Glen and the Quirang!

We stayed 2 nights on Mull. I wish we had stayed one more (as we had one beautiful day and one day of torrential rain so we could not go to Staffa). We stayed at a place called High Oatfield B & B. If was pretty close to the Craignure ferry so was a good location to tour the entire island. We visited the Glengorm Castle and if we ever go back I would love to stay there. They have fabulous walking trails there and you will even see standing stones.

We also spent two nights in Onich, which is right across the bridge from Glencoe. We stayed at Lochview Guesthouse (Home - Lochview Guesthouse near Fort William). It was absolutely beautiful! It was funny as Glencoe was very cloudy and overcast both days we went over there to hike, but when we crossed the bridge back to Onich the sun was out. We had a fabulous view of the water as well as some Highland Cows right outside our window.

You will love Scotland and its people. Have a fabulous trip!

Thank you So much Janis, Gardyloo and Sberg!!!! This is great advice! Terrific map Gardyloo: greatly appreciated!


We will research a lot pre-trip , but for starters, so I hopefully won’t have too many final questions:

3 nights Edinburgh: flight arrive 10:30 for we have 1/2 day. B&B suggestions for Edinburgh?
Any place suggested to rent the car?

2 nights Trossachs or area Gardyloo mentioned before Mull: any B&B suggestions? Which is better location to choose so we can catch ferry when we leave to Mull?

3 nights Mull: is it easy to get car ferry and drive yourselves around? Any B&B ideas in addition to sberg’s one?

Gardyloo mentioned ferry to Mallaig: I didn’t know this was doable ! Would love suggestions if this takes all day, as to when to catch ferry to ultimately get to Skye
3 nights Skye: B&B suggestions besides the one mentoned by sberg? Also maitaitom stayed at Collins and liked it.

1 night Glencoe or area: is this Callander you liked Janis? (Roman Camp hotel?) or Fortingall?
B&B ideas if only 1 night
1 night before flight from EDI: it leaves at 12:30 , so Stirling or Perth? Hotel/B&B ideas?
Drop car before flight home

our trip shortened by 1 night due to flight modification.
Hope for more ideas from you all and know how much we appreciate all the assistance for this trip!

>>B&B suggestions for Edinburgh?<<. Budget?

>>Any place suggested to rent the car?<< Collect your car out at EDI -- driving iIN Edinburgh is a beee-atch.

>>3 nights Mull: is it easy to get car ferry and drive yourselves around? Any B&B ideas<<

Not sure what you mean by is it 'easy'? A ferry is the only way to get there. My favorite B&B on Mull is bed and breakfast Isle of Mull,Seaview B&B accommodation,for,Isle of Iona It is a short walk to the foot ferry to Iona and boats to Staffa, etc.

You need to get a map ;) -- both Mull and Skye are islands, so yes there are ferries. Most people take the ferry one way and the bridge the other direction when traveling to/from Skye. But a ferry is the ONLY way you can get to Mull.

The reason I usually recommend the Callander area (and yes, the Roman Camp is quite good) is not because of the town itself. It is the biggest town in the area so has lots of accommodations. But te main reason is it is a very central base for Loch Lomond, Stirling, Inchmahome, Doune, Killin, Loch Katrine, many other Lochs, and great scenery. Kilmartin that part of Argyll are also good - You could do both Something like: Edinburgh > Callander or Aberfoyle > Kilmartin > Mull > Skye > then either through Glencoe or down via Perth instead > EDI

3 nts Edinburgh, 2 nts Callander or Aberfoyle, 2 nts Kilmartin, 2 nts Fionnphort, 3 nts skye, 1 nt Glencoe or Dunkeld depending on your final route, and the last night at EDI.

​​​​​​​You would want the CalMac hopscotch #7 package https://www.calmac.co.uk/hopscotch-7...namurchan-skye

And by 'at EDI' I don't really mean at the airport - though that is also an option. But I'd personally want to stay up along the firth in Queensferry or even in central Edinburgh. Transport from the city center to EDI is easy by coach, tram, or taxi.

😆 😂
yes, I wasn’t clear.... I know Mull and Skye are islands and need ferries😎....
i meant is it best to stay on Mull taking car across via ferry or stay in Oban and do day trip there: 2or 3 nights we had thought regardless.
The Mull b&b was booked ( shockingly this far in advance)...
if Mull is preferred as overnights, do you like The Castle B&B there? We could splurge if terrific experience.

Thank you for asking about budget:
we are ok as long as not more than $250 GBP if special places. Usually we try for lodging no more than around $300 USD . Great location, quiet and clean with WiFi and lovely hosts preferred. We often use vrbo rentals but only if someone we know highly recommends. We like b&b as we prefer to meet congenial hosts rather than stodgy impersonal places.

thank you !!

>>The Mull b&b was booked ( shockingly this far in advance)...<<. :(

Not Shockingly though . . . it is that good.

I would definitely stay ON Mull and not do day trips there and back. Oban is OK . . . but it doesn't hold a candle to Mull.

Glengorm Castle is lovely -- it is fairly remote - but most of Mull is fairly remote.

For a couple of nights in the Callander area look at both the Roman Camp and the Lake hotel http://www.lake-hotel.com

We took the bridge over to Skye and the ferry off. We then had a beautiful drive to the ferry to Mull which landed in Tobermory. Glengorm Castle is not far from Tobermory. We took the Craignur ferry off of Mull to Oban and then drove to Onich ( near Glencoe) which was not too far. We drove to Callandar from there and visited Loch Lomond on the way. EDI is not that long a drive from Callandar or Stirling.

Rent your car at EDI. The drop off there was quite easy ( and I imagine the pick up would be too) and there is a tram right there to bring you into the city. They had the best transport system we have ever used and it is quite simple.

I would definitely try for 2 to 3 nights on Skye and Mull if possible. They are both beautiful! I know Janis won’t agree with me but I would cut a night from Callendar if you had to but that is all personal preference.

Really look at a map of Mull prior to booking. Staying near Iona for one night would be great but it is a long way from Tobermory. I would not have wanted to stay on that end for more than one night.

Thank you all so much! Terrific ideas and details!
Anyone have a suggestion for a great B&B or small boutique hotel in good location in Edinburgh? Millers64 was highly recommended. Any others more central?
any for Stirling for overnight before flight?



Janis and Gardyloo: (Or others?):
from Edinburgh, you would overnight 2 nights first in Callander or Inverary/Killmartin and then be able to catch ferry to Mull?

then overnight Fortingall or Stirling before flight home from EDI the next day? We would need to be at airport I am guessing by 9:30 for the 1230 flight.

3 Edinburgh
2 Trossachs/or Argyll for Loch Lomond area. Roman Camp or Lake hotel suggested so far: any others? Drive to catch ferry next morning
3 Mull: perhaps Glengorm (sp?) castle
3 Skye
1 Glencoe: Onich suggested by sberg. Any others ?
1 Stirling or Fortingall : which best to be able to get to EDI next morning? Lodging ideas?
Fly home

is this reasonable plan?

I would stay closer to Edinburgh than either Stirling or Fortingall if you're flying out at 12:30. My own choice for an airport-area hotel is the Dakota in South Queensferry - Edinburgh Hotels | Edinburgh Airport Hotels | Dakota Hotel Edinburgh . It ain't quaint, but it's comfy as hell and they now have a shuttle to the airport (an unusual thing in the UK) so you could turn in the car the night before if you chose to. You might also look at other accommodations in the South Queensferry "village" under the iconic Forth bridges. Queensferry is a very historic and atmospheric place, with some excellent restaurants and marvelous views (and Robert Louis Stevenson connections - he wrote parts of Kidnapped while housed in the old Hawes Inn.)

As to whether to go with the Trossachs or the Argyll options, I'd say do some research and see what appeals more.

Thanks so much for the help Gardyloo!
queensferry Dakota sounds great!
any places anyone likes for Edinburgh lodging?
such wonderful help all of you have given us!

I differ -- with that late a flight you could stay just about anywhere. Nothing wrong with Queensferry. But Stirling to EDI is a very quick 30 mile drive -- all by motorway. Even in heavy traffic it seldom takes more than 45 mins and usually just about 35 mins. You would be driving after the morning rush.

Thank you Janis! If we stay at Stirling (perhaps seeing Castle before the evening on drive down from Glencoe), any place you recommend to stay for hotel?
also; on way back , you suggested 1 not at Glencoe or Dunkeld: any lodging recommendations?
still hoping for Edinburgh recommendation for lodging... for first 3 nights.
thank you all again!

If you can get in - the Clachaig in Glencoe for absotively 100% sure https://clachaig.com. (but they do book up)

In Dunkeld -- If you can get it in your budget the Dunkeld House which is a povely/posh hotel and also a Hilton Grand Vacations resort Dunkeld House Hotel - A Luxury 4 star Country House Hotel in Perthshire, Scotland | Dunkeld House Hotel - Short Breaks and Holiday Accommodation in Perthshire Scotland

For cheaper - the Atholl Arms Dunkeld hotels | hotels in Dunkeld | best Dunkeld restaurants | Dunkeld hotel in Perthshire |

For Edinburgh -- again - if you can get it in your budget -- Fraser Suites. It is steps from St Giles Cathedral an easy walk up to the Castle and down the Royal Mile, and a steep-ish walk down to Princess street (and a VERY steep walk back up :) ) https://edinburgh.frasershospitality.com/en

There are several hotels in all budgets and many rental flats all up and down the Royal Mile which would be my preference for a first time visit because probably 70% of the 'must see's' are in Old Town. This site has two lovely flats on Lady Stair's Close in an AMAZING location on the Royal Mile steps from the Whisky center, the Witchery, the Castle, Gladstone's Land etc. https://www.edinburgh-selfcatering.c...inburgh-castle -- Only problem is they are three flights up if that is an issue.

Janis: thank you so much for all your advice and the multiple replies to my (unfortunately!) many questions!
a few too many stairs with luggage for us with Lady Stairs.
Fraser is a possibility....
Maitaitom stayed at Millers64 : a 15 minute walk. Not sure how he found it .... a fraction of the cost of the other places and he loved it. You don’t think a good idea?

Hope I understood last ideas from you Janis: Dunkeld for last night?
Dunkeld house hotel looks perfect for our last night! Beautiful place to end trip . Will check route to airport .
I’m checking Clachaig in Glencoe now....

looking at routes (one final time for which direction of the loop first:
3 nights edinburgh
then drive up to Callander and stay Roman Camp hotel 2 nights
then continue up to GLencoe and stay 1 night : the Clachaig
to Skye for 3 nights. TBD which place: The Snug mentioned by sberg, also Cullin hills by Maitaitom
then ferry from Skye to Mull : stay 3 nights
then ferry back to mainland and head to Dunkeld for last night? I need to see if Dunkeld close enough to get to EDI: Around an hour but maps are deceiving. .

Or better to head west part of loop first : if so, can you get to ferry from Roman Camp on same day to get ferry to Mull? And then continue to Skye as suggested and loop to Glencoe after , then get to Dunkeld....?

hard to tell from maps. Thanks!

I recently returned from trip to Edinburgh. Have been so many times, I’ve lost count and have stayed in any number of hotels. For several years, I stayed at the Balmoral, but with family traveling with me and needing two rooms, The Balmoral was out of the question. I ended up booking Fraser Suites in part due to previous recommendation by janisj along with a little personal research. In short, we love it. So for someone used to staying at The Balmoral, Fraser Suites worked out beautifully. You can’t beat the location.

I'm not sure how Dunkeld will work for a night's stay before you fly, BUT...I love that town. The walking trails around the cathedral are beautiful, as are the ones further down river.

Check out the beer garden @ the Atholl Arms, it's across from the hotel, next to the bridge, overlooking the river. We enjoyed our 2 night stay.