Hi Schnauzer,

I am in for a Sydney GTG. I grew up in St Ives (backed onto Pymble golf course) do you live there?

I now live within spitting distance of Toni at Abbotsford.

I can't wait for your next installment and even more for my trip at the end of June - now only 5 weeks away.

Terrific Aussiefive, Abbotsford eh. And I thought the moisture I'd been feeling was just the rain! that's three for the GTG and we are all relatively close, that's well planned. I get back at the end of July. A few (quiet?) wines and some chatter would be great. Are you home by then Schnauzer?

Great Toni,

I am also back at end of July.

Looks like you're having a gorgeous day in Paris...

http://www.paris-live.com/paris_webc...tower_cam3.htm

Hi Everyone,
I hope you have enjoyed the break from my ramblings, we have been to London for three days. I will tell all as soon as I have written it down! Downloading photos, got into the Chelsea flower show by fluke.

Definitely back by end of July for the Sydney GTG.

Will update soon,
Schnauzer

Hi All, the first of a few days reporting.

Tuesday 19th May 09

To day is titled, “I have been abducted by Aliens and taken to a far off land”

This morning we decided to take the train out to Defense to see the Grande Arche de Defense. As we came out of the metro it was as if we had been transported to a completely alien land. The buildings are all ultra modern and very, very different architecturally wise. Amazing stuff, I was completely blown away by some of the buildings. I don’t normally like modern, but this was modern with a twist, really thoughtfully done. (In the photos you will immediately see what I am saying). The Grande Arche is like nothing I have ever seen before, it is an absolutely huge office block, the lifts look like they are going up and down scaffolding. We wandered about taking photos and generally oohing and aahing at the buildings. There was also a very big sculpture of a thumb, not quite sure of the significance. The Hilton Hotel was very obliging with their “facilities”. We walked down the Esplanade de Defense until we reached the next metro stop. The closer one got to this metro the older the buildings became, I presume they were the first modern buildings but they just had that old 1970’s look about them, concrete and no real interest.

I wanted to do the Passy walk that DH had already done so we divided up and I headed to Passy and followed my walk, seeing lots of interesting bits and pieces. I had lunch at rue l’annoncition (sp) again. I was meeting the estate agent to have a look at three more apartments up at Lamark Caulaincourt at 4.30pm so I made my way back there. I really like this area it is “true Paris” but with a buzz of something happening. I would like to stay here next time I think. I saw the three apartments, two were OK and the third was really nice. I would definitely stay in this apartment. It is of course their most expensive one bedroom. Why am I not surprised?

DH went to visit some wine shops and bought me a bottle of Cassis, this time I will pack it in my suitcase, (yikes) so that it doesn’t get taken off me just before I get on the aircraft like the last time. All my nice new white tops may be purple when I get home!!!

We had made a reservation at Le P’tit Troquet, a bistro in the 7th where we had dined a couple of times on our last holiday here. It is a tiny restaurant but they are very welcoming. The three course menu was pretty good. I don’t think the food was quite a good as last time but it was very pleasant and good value for money (for Paris) I had a really tasty goats cheese and tomato confit tarte and DH the asparagus risotto, we both had the duck with orange sauce and I had the apple almond cakes with vanilla ice cream. DH ordered the three scoops of sorbet but in his mind for some strange reason he had thought he was getting three soufflés. When his dessert arrived he took a mouthful and said “this taste just like sorbet”, er yes, that is what you ordered!! Poor chap was a bit sad, I told him that if soufflé had been on the menu then of course I would have had the same, as soufflés are one of my favourites.

We were off to London the next morning so we packed our bags ready to go.

Next day to follow soon.
Scnauzer

Loved your photos of Giverny. Thanks for posting your reports, they are very enjoyable.

I'll do these day by day otherwise it will be too much to read.

Wednesday 20th May 09

We went out in the morning first thing and bought some stuff to make a picnic lunch for the train, as you know train food is not quite what it could be. Our train was not until 11.13am so we were grateful for the sensible departure time. We allowed 45 minutes to get there and include the 20 minutes pre departure check in time. It was only two stops on the metro with one change but it took us all that time. We were rather hot and bothered upon arrival. They are very efficient at Gare du Nord and the train left at exactly 11.13, not 11.15! Be warned allow plenty of time, they don’t muck around.

The journey was very easy and pleasant, the train wasn’t full and it would have to be the most efficient way of getting to London from Paris. We had our lunch and read and looked out of the window. The two hour journey was over and before we knew it we had arrived at Kings Cross/St Pancras in London. Eurostar has offered to sell underground train tickets on board and I think I should have investigated further, Alex went to find out and it didn’t sound too straight forward. Anyway the queues at St. Pancras were huge and confusing. We didn’t know what to buy and how. There is this Oyster Card and many of the ticket machines only topped up these cards – which of course we didn’t have. Eventually I found a machine with only a small queue and someone to explain the best ticket to buy which turned out to the be the off peak day pass for 5.60pounds. A one way single ticket is 4.00pounds. We knew we wanted to head off again later in the day so we bought a pass, if you were just going to your hotel and not going out again anywhere else for the day then a single ticket would be fine for the first day.

We stayed at the Hotel Bailey’s Millennium at Gloucester road. This was highly recommended on Trip Advisor and Fodors. It was perfect for our needs. The hotel was right opposite the tube station, the rooms were reasonably big for London, the bathroom was huge and clean. There is another Millennium next door which is a bit cheaper but no where near as nice, I believe. We had booked through Londontown.com before we left and got a room rate of 140.00 plus taxes which came to 161.00. I had checked the internet just before we left Paris to see whether the rate had fallen, if so I could have rebooked at the cheaper rate, however it had now gone up to 200.00 plus taxes, so we had got a good deal.

I wanted to go and see my old stomping ground from when I lived in London 34 years ago!!! I have never been back to see my old “room” in all the times I have subsequently visited London. Off to South Kensington we went, eventually I found the street where I had lived and it didn’t look any different. I am sure they have painted and renovated in the past 34 years but it looked just the same! The area is certainly a lot more up market now with lots of trendy cafes and shops. It always was a nice area but the café culture hadn’t been around in the 70’s. That done, we went off on a walk from South Kensington to Sloane Square. I had copied some walks from a “Walks from Dickensian London” book and we followed one of those. We walked past the old hospital and I realised that the Chelsea flower show was on. I hadn’t even thought about that. We asked a policeman were there any tickets left for sale, he pointed us in the direction of a refund tent. There was a queue of people about 30 feet away with a fellow standing at the top of the queue hiding what we found out later to be the sign which said “queue here for refund tickets” well we didn’t see that did we so we just rocked up to the counter (wandering why there were so few people about) I thought the people were waiting for a tour or something. In typical British fashion no one said anything whilst we jumped the queue and I bought a ticket for Friday afternoon. What a bonus. They had been all sold out and it was only the return of tickets that enabled anyone to get in at this late stage.

DH wanted to check out where he was going to be for his two day seminar thing so he headed off to Leicester Square and I headed up to Knightsbridge to check out the shops. I went to Harvey Nics and Harrods as well as other boutiques. I was looking for some shoes to go with the new handbag!!! Things seemed to be a lot cheaper than in Paris – well sort of. Certainly the food and some of the clothing. The shops stayed open until 8.00pm. I had forgotten about the time change and got back to the hotel at 7.45pm wondering why DH was looking so forlorn and hungry!! It was 8.45pm Paris time so it was off to dinner. We figured what is one of the native dishes of England, well curry of course. We found this great Indian restaurant which was very busy and had a lovely meal.

Back to the hotel. Tomorrow coming up.
Schnauzer

Thursday 21st May 09

DH was up and off early for his seminar in Leicester Square. We had discovered a little café just two doors up on Gloucester Road which I went to for breakfast. It was called Café Forum and it was fantastic, so busy and they served lovely fresh breakfasts. I was amazed at how “cheap” the food was in London. After Paris I guess anywhere would be cheaper but even so. I had the full English breakfast and was allowed to swap the orange juice for a café latte for the same price of 5.50pounds. An amazing deal and the coffee was the best I had had in three weeks. What a terrific find. If you ever stay at the Baileys make sure you go here for breakfast and not in the hotel for 13.00pounds.

Feeling very full I got organized at the hotel and then headed out back to Green Park to find the Bally shop in New Bond Street. Most of the Bally shoe shops have closed in London as they have been taken over and the new company have closed them down. There is now only the Bond Street store and a franchise in Selfridges. The asst. manager was very helpful and found me the latest new shoes that had just come in and were not even of display yet!! They were black patent, ballet flats, just what I needed, how about that!!! Of course I had to try on a couple of other pairs just to make sure! Feeling happy off I trotted. I saw a fabulous glove shop in the Burlington Arcade and thought that maybe a new pair of bright coloured leather gloves might be fun. I tried on several pairs but to be honest when I looked in the mirror they looked like I was wearing rubber washing up gloves!!! Not quite the image I wanted to portray, so with a thank you very much (for getting out at least a dozen pairs) I said goodbye and headed up to Boots and Marks and Spencers. I found some great socks so bought a couple of pairs of those.

Back to the hotel to drop off the packages before I headed out on my “Holland Park” walk. As it was lunch time I headed back to my breakfast café and had a lovely tuna and corn baguette and another great coffee. There was an American couple behind me in the queue and we got chatting. I mentioned something about them being from the US, he wanted to know how everyone guessed so easily. I teased them by saying the first clue was the snow white sneakers they wore and other of course was the accent! They were very sweet and were also staying at the Baileys and ate at this café for breakfast and obviously like me today for lunch as well.

Holland Park is an area I have never been to and wanted to explore. I started off from High Street Kensington with a lot of tempting shops to navigate before I started my walk proper. It was quite interesting but not completely as I had imagined. I did find a terrific youth hostel in what remains of the original Holland House. I think this is worth looking further into for those travelling on budget to London. So central and so beautiful (from the outside – I took photos) I know you can stay in youth hostels in England even when you are no longer youthful. I finished my walk and had a cup of lovely tea in a café right opposite Bill Wyman’s Sticky Fingers bar. (one of these celebrity restaurant/bars/clubs)

I toyed with going to see a film as DH was going out for dinner with somebody from Australia, but decided the shops were a better bet. I just wandered around enjoying myself. It was getting close to dinner time and I had seen a homeless man on the street near to Marks and Spencer so I thought I would go and get him something to eat. It is not easy trying to find a meal to eat without knives and forks etc. I found the ready to go salad section which appeared to have an offer of bottled water as well. I picked up two chicken salads and water and headed to the counter, (they didn’t have any plastic knives or forks left only spoons – hmm tricky) I paid and then questioned the bill, of course the salad I had picked up was the ONLY one out of all of them that didn’t have the water and was twice the price of all the others! (plus of course I had even picked out the wrong water! – they didn’t make it easy or obvious) I gave those back and started again with just one salad and water for the chap, I would get something closer to home (maybe at my café) anyway by the time all of this had taken place the fellow had gone (probably home for a decent meal). I hung on to the salad and had it myself for dinner.

The weather had been glorious all day, bright and sunny and warm. Just perfect.

Friday's report soon.
Schanuzer

Friday 22nd May 09

We packed everything up and DH took the main bag with him to his seminar as I didn’t want to carry much around all day.

Back to my café for breakfast which this time I shared with the local constabulary. We had a good chat and I asked them if when they saw a criminal did they do the “Stop – Police” call a hundred yards away to give the baddie lots of time to get away. They said no, they hardly ever gave chase as they had to carry too much heavy kit around with them. They appeared to both love their jobs (girl and guy) and were very happy doing what they did. All in all there were about 8 coppers having their breakfast and two more in blue overalls and Kevlar vests arrived as I was leaving. When I arrived at the cafe I had seen the police cars parked outside and wondered what was going on, an armed hold up perhaps?? No, they were just having their bacon butties!!!!

Today was Hampstead walk followed by the Chelsea Flower Show in the afternoon before we headed back to Paris.

Hampstead was a lovely village within the London suburbs. I noticed a couple of house prices in the real estate agents windows and found a nice house for only 4.7million pounds!!!! Yikes.

I enjoyed my walk and found John Constable’s grave in the graveyard, which unfortunately was very badly cared for, such a shame. After my walk I went back to Oxford Street and looked in more shops such as Selfridges and the House of Fraser. I didn’t buy anything else so that was good. It was late lunchtime now so I headed off to Sloane Square where I needed to be for the flower show. I bought an egg and lettuce bun in a sandwich shop and ate it sitting on a bench under the trees at Sloane Square which was very pleasant. I thought there may be a queue to get in at 3.30pm which was my ticket time (I needed to jump the queue if that was the case so had to get there early!!!!- only kidding) Anyway I got there about 2.50pm and they just made the announcement that the 3.30pm tickets were being allowed in so that was good as we were catching the train and I had to be at St. Pancras at 7.30pm at the latest. I have never been to the show before and it was really busy. There were lots of little booths selling things as well as the grand Pavilion with the main displays. In past years I am sure I had seen the most amazing displays on the news, but I couldn’t really find any of those. Sure there were amazing displays of flowers but not the wayout things I was expecting to find. I took the usual copious quantities of photos needless to say. My favourite display was the Clematis display that won the gold medal and the Alliums. The best floral displays were hats made entirely of flowers and leaves, very, very creative. There were some cute little cottages outside for the cottage garden displays, the photos didn’t do them justice unfortunately.

I had had enough after 3 hours so I headed back out. I could not have walked around all day, it was too crowded. I met DH up at the train station and we caught the train home. It was a bank holiday weekend in England, I can’t believe we have come across so many holidays in one month!! The train of course had the world and his wife on it and was a bit noisy and crowded. We got back home at nearly 12.00 midnight. Paris now seems very familiar to us!! Good to be back in the apartment even if we had enjoyed the big bathroom in London.

Quiet day today (Saturday) and looking forward to the GTG dinner in Paris tonight.
Schnauzer

Well we had a fantastic night last night at the GTG, thank you so much Monica for organising this great evening. It was fabulous to meet so many fodorites in one hit!!! DH and I certainly enjoyed ourselves very much. There was a quite a large group of us and we swapped around a bit to try and talk to as many as possible, I still didn't get to talk to everyone which was a shame.

The sun is shining here this morning so we are off to Vaux le Vicomte (is there a P?) today.

Photos are on their way soon, still putting titles on.

Schnauzer

I can't get the invitation to send from Kodak, so I will keep trying.

Schnauzer

Schnauzer, I´m off to Saint-Germain-en-Laye tomorrow so am revisiting that part of your report for details. Visited Museé Jacqumart-André for the first time today. Did all my walking in heels (post-fancy-lunch) so am staying in tonight. :D

I look forward to your recounting your visit to Vaux le Vicomte; I will have to live vicariously for the moment.

It was great meeting you and Mr. Schnauzer.

Wow, what a great travelogue! We will be staying in an apartment in the ninth, rue dunkerque, the third week of July, meeting up with our two daughters. Google Maps Street View is the best thing ever, when we were looking for apartments it was invaluable in "walking around the neighborhood" to see what the area was like.

I have to compliment you on your great writing, very entertaining and loads of fun. I must have our older daughter read this, she is also an afficionado of Longchamps bags, sale prices and shopping in general! Thanks for all the great tips, also to kerouac for the tip on the coins for purchasing a carnet. I haven't been back to Paris in several years, the last trip we were in a hotel right at the Lamarck-Cailancourt metro stop, and it was a great neighborhood, but a bit far on the metro with smaller children. We're looking forward to the 9e arrondisment, and the Friday market at place d'Anvers! Loved the pictures!

What's the name of the restaurant where you had lunch in the rue de l'Annonciation near the Marmottan museum? Your pictures had me drooling over the keyboard.

Looking forward to the next installment,

Cecile

Another great instalment Schnauzer. We are staying at a youth hostel at Queensgate near Gloucester Road tube at the end of our trip. Youth (using the term very loosely)hostels
are totally different these days. We will have a triple share room with ensuite, TV etc. I always stay in that area of London as, like you, spent part of my very enjoyable misspent youth living in that area. Chelsea Flower Show, what a dream, I would love to get there one year.

Hi Everyone,

I am glad you are still enjoying my long reports. Toni, the flower show was good but very crowded I am not sure I would go again. Maybe one of those one off things to do. I am a horticulturist as well so you would think there would have been a real interest but honestly it was a hard slog getting around and actually seeing things.

Cecile I can't actually remember the exact name, sorry. It was a little cafe closer to the end of rue L'Annonication where it goes into the quiet end of the street. Facing that way it was on the right hand side. On cooler days they put down a plastic cover over the outside terrace tables, but when I walked passed the second time the cover had been taken away and I hardly recognised it myself!!! You will notice the cakes as you go by though, they cannot be missed.

Leely, it was lovely to meet you also, I hope you enjoyed your fine dining experience, are you going to write a report about all the super restaurants you are visiting?

Here is the link for my next set of photos from London and Paris:

http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk/ShareL...localeid=en_GB

Hope you enjoy them, keep those comments coming as they top the thread also.

Till later,
Schnauzer

Schnauzer, you might be interested in knowing that the very oldest of the modern buildings at La Défense is the CNIT where the Hilton is now located. It was built from 1956 to 1958 and renovated in 1989. It is reputedly the largest building in the world using just 3 triangular points of support.

You mentioned the old buildings from the 1970's, but a number of those have already been torn down and replaced, including the Esso building, the first skyscraper at La Défense. It was built in 1963 and torn down in 1993.

La Défense is the largest office district in Europe.

Thanks for that info Kerouac, you are very kind to keep adding such great comments to my report, thanks. I really enjoyed Defense as you can tell.

Here is my next report it is quite short this time!!

Saturday 23rd May

A very slow day today, washing and shopping etc and writing up my report and downloading photos.

We went out tonight for another Fodors get together at the same restaurant as before. It was a bigger group this time, probably about 18 people. There were three ladies we had met at the previous dinner and the rest were new. We had a really great time, the food I chose was better this time, but the main point to the evening was to meet all these folk that you chat to on line in person. It was quite a late night but very enjoyable.

Sunday 24th May

Today we decided to go to Vaux le Vicomte which is a Chateau about 50 kms south of Paris by train. It has a long history to it, the original owner used M. Vau the architect, Le Notre for the landscaping and M. Brun (I think) for the painting and decorating inside. Fouquet the owner was Louis XIV’s finance officer. To cut a long story short, Louis wasn’t impressed (or rather was very impressed with the building etc) with Fouquet’s wealth and was influence by Colbert that Fouquet was up to no good. So Fouquet was tried and sent to jail for 19 years, where he died. Louis then used the same architect, the same landscaper and painter for Versailles. He also nabbed all the paintings and good stuff from the Chateau to put into Versailles.

The Chateau was really interesting and the gardens magnificent. They are all done of different levels, but you only notice this when you are walking back towards the Chateau, if you look from the Chateau to the gardens they all appear on one level. Tres clever!!

It was quite difficult to get to time coordination wise – if that is English. I was under the wrong impression that a shuttle bus met each train and took you there, as the Vernon/Giverny experience. I know people had posted the shuttle schedule now of course I wished I had taken more notice. We left the apartment at 11.30 on a really hot day, t shirts and cotton ¾ pants. We caught the 12.00 train from Gare du Nord on the RER to Melun. It took about one hour, we arrived at 1.00pm and found the next shuttle was not until 1.45pm. A tad annoying, anyway, by the time we queued to ask about return trains, found a loo, bought a drink the time was just about up. You pay 3.50E each way per person. A taxi was 22E each way, non negotiable. If you go, do some more research into train times and then shuttle times, otherwise you can waste a lot of time.

It is quite an expensive Chateau to visit, our tickets were 16E each, DH managed to use his Seniors card and get 3E off, there are not many places that accept the Senior discount we have found.

We had packed a picnic lunch to eat in the beautiful grounds, which we did first thing. Last week we were searching for sunshine to have lunch, today was so hot we were desperate for shade.

You can visit the dome right at the top of the Chateau, this is really interesting and you can walk around the outside. You get to see the total construction which was fascinating as well, lots of boards with how they “did it” on the walls, along with pictures and examples of the equipment they used.

We then walked around the huge gardens, you can hire little golf carts which on a really hot day wouldn’t be a bad idea.

We then caught the 6.10pm shuttle back to the station and the 6.45 train (which was late) back to Gare du Lyon, this was a quick train so only took ½ hour this time. Gare du Lyon was horrendous, I couldn’t believe the amount of people and bags and everything!!!

We were so hot and exhausted it was egg on toast for dinner and strawberries!!

Monday 25th May 09

Today was really hot as well, I was silly enough to wear jeans to go shopping and wished I had put on cotton trousers again. Most of the little shops have no air con and boy does it get hot inside them. I trawled around looking for some last minute (well not quite) things I had on my list. Another hand bag but this time for my Mum!!!

We are off to dinner at Petit Sud Ouest a restaurant that specializes in south western food, read duck!! We ate at their sister restaurant in the 7th last time we were here and DH announced it was the 2nd best duck he had ever had, so we are trying the restaurant very near to us. I will report back whether it is as good the second time. (well first really for this particular restaurant)

Till later,
Schnauzer

Thanks again for your photos! I enjoyed them all, but especially, but especially the chelsea flower show. I was just thinking how well you were doing making us think you were the only one there and then I came to the one with the crowds at the booths. That one made me glad to be home looking in from afar.

So pleased you liked the photos. Yes the show was rather crowded to say the least. There are three types of tickets, all day at 45 pounds, from 3.30 for 24. pounds and from 5 (or 5.30 can't remember) till 8.00pm for 18 pounds. If we hadn't have been leaving that evening I would have gone for the the 5.00pm show, that would have been enough time for me. As I was leaving people were still coming in by the bus load.

At one of the displays I overheard a lady say to her friend "I always have this idea that I am going to be the only one here and that I will be able to see everything really easily", they laughed at that. I guess we all feel that way until we get there!!! Dream shattered.

Schnauzer

The first time we traveled alone (pre Fodor's!!) we were picked up at the airport by a friend of my mother's who also takes in people and shows them around his area. He took us from the airport to Vaux le Vicomte. I remember being so tired that as I stood on the dome worrying I was going to fall! An amazing thing to me is that from the dome looking back over the gardens you don't see any other civilization-no power lines or houses or highways.

Great report. Thanks also for using Picasa which teaches me that I can post my photos that way.

The Petit Sud on Bourdonnais is a great place!! Not exactly healthy eating but great.

I plan on our "group" having a round table there in December, and having many of their items presented for us to dine "family" style to enjoy their offerings!

Working on those of us who will be there. I will be there for 6 weeks beginning Nov. 3rd..many will be there in early Dec. and that will probably be when we will be getting together.

Wnjoy the rest of your stay..

Joan

AGM, I can't imagine climbing the dome with jetlag!! You poor thing.It was "wavy" enough without the lack of sleep and time changes!!

Joan, We thought the duck was not as good in the 9th as it was at the 7th restaurant. (mind you that was 4 years ago) We both had the Veritable Duck with ceps and potatoes. It was lovely, but last time there seemed to be a small amount of sauce which seemed to make a difference. It was cooked to perfection though.

I hope your December gathering goes well!! How are feeling now that you are home? We only have 4 days to go, yikes, it is amazing how quickly the time goes and there are still so many cakes to eat!!

Schnauzer

Hi Everyone,

Here are some more photos. Some of the GTG and some of Chateau Vaux le Vicomte.

http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk/ShareL...localeid=en_GB

Tuesday 26th May 09
Today we walked up to rue Constance to book our last night's accommodation at the Le Relais Montmartre. It looks like a really cute little hotel, right off rue Lepic. I will let you know what it is like after we have stayed there. We also looked at the Langlois after recommendations off here but it looked really tired and dated compared with this little place for the same price.
www.relaismontmartre.f

As we were walking back to the metro the heavens opened and of course we were without brollies, so a quick duck back to the apartment to pick them up and change into raincoats.

We were going to Montparnasse for lunch today. DH had bought a little history book about some of the famous bistros and wanted to try one out. We chose four and off we went to check them out. Of course as we arrived the rain was still beating down which made it a bit uncomforable to walk around. We chose La Cupole, mostly because it was the busiest the others looked dead, and after looking at their prices we could figure out why that was so. La Cupole had better prices and lots of buzz about it. DH ordered the Anchovies with aubergine caviar. This was slices of french bread toasted with a fresh anchovy on each piece,the aubergine had been pureed and there was other bits and pieces to go as well. They were really tasty. We both ordered the famous Indian Lamb Curry depuis 1927. The meat was so tender I think some of it had actually been cooking since then! It was quite nice, nothing super dooper, not very spicy and not terribly hot temperature wise. It came with rice and a tomato puree on top and was served with chutney and pickeled vegetables. On a coldish windy day it was perfect, but I wouldn't say it was the greatest thing I have eaten. We resisted desserts and had coffee which was very good. The service was good and attentive.

We then walked to Val de Grace to have a look at the hospital and the gardens inside if possible. We tried a couple of doors leading to the courtyard and finally one opened. Whilst taking my photos a gust of wind slammed the door shut and for one dreadful moment I thought we had been locked inside. There was no one else around and I don't know that we were even meant to be in there anyway!!

oops, the fodors site went funny on me and I couldn't finish!! Will finish soon, off to Rouen today.

Schnauzer

Continuing on from being nearly locked inside the Val de Grace Courtyard.....

Panic over we managed to re open the big wooden door and get out.

I wanted to go back to rue Moufftard as the last time was on a Sunday and it was a bit dead. Today it was bopping so we walked the length again. We bought another couple of slices of tart for dinner at the Maison de tarte. We then caught the metro back to Bon Marche to buy DH another piece (and me of course) of custard flan that he liked so much. Final stop was the SNCF boutique to buy tickets to go to Rouen tomorrow. Lots of wandering again today so it was back to the apartment.

Wednesday 27th May 09

Today we got up early (well earlier than normal) and got organized for our trip to Rouen, which is in Normandy. The weather in Paris looked promising and the forecast for Rouen had looked good as well.

The train was a breeze and so was Rouen when we got out of the train. It must have been about 10 degrees colder with an icy wind blowing. We were frozen, this was not on the plan at all. The first stop was for a hot cup of coffee and a pit stop. We then walked to the famous Cathedral and had a good look around the inside and outside. The inside was preferable to the outside temperature wise and you know how cold Cathedrals can be!

Rouen is very old and also famous for Joan of Arc. We saw the tower where she was held and tortured and the place now marked by a ghastly concrete cross where she was burned alive. There are lots of lovely old buildings, many timbered. We followed a group of English school kids and their teacher who was giving a great talk – we could learn something here! They went into the Aitre Saint Maclou which is one of the last mediaeval necropolises in Europe to be found in a city centre. Bones were the theme dating back to the Great Plague of 1348. Not to forget the skeleton of a cat to be found in a wall, the poor thing had been originally buried alive.

A French fellow started talking to us as he had also been trying to follow along with the school kids – we asked him for a restaurant recommendation. We thought he was a local, he wasn’t but his daughter was so on the phone he got to ask her the best place for these Australians to eat. Following her instructions as we walked along with him we came to Pascaline Restaurant at 5, rue de la Poterne. We wouldn’t have chosen it ourselves, it just didn’t look that exciting from the outside, but inside it was lovely. A real bistro style, full of all French no other accents to be heard. I had the chicken pot special which was cooked with a sort of liquidy risotto and mushrooms. It was very tasty and warming, DH had the 3 types of pig, sausage, ham and bits of pork served on Puy lentils. Also very good, DH had the cheese plate and I had the Pain d’apice (spice bread) Clafoutis with pain d’apice ice cream as well. It was really yummy. I had had a Clafoutis last time I was in Paris and it was the worst dessert ever, so I was rather hesitant to order it again, however my faith has been restored.

After lunch we went to this amazing wrought iron museum called Musee le Secq des Tournelles, I just loved it. I really like wrought iron work anyway and this was an old church converted into a museum of everything made with iron. Grills, keys, locks, jewellery, medical equipment and shop signs, all going back for years and years. I took some photos so I hope they give the right impression. I had to see every single thing there was, not many museums hold my interest like this one did. Next was the Ceramique museum, can you see the inside theme here, it was now starting to spit outside so we were searching for the warmth. Again very interesting stuff from Sevres, Moustiers and other places. Some huge pots that were over 2 ft tall.

By this stage DH had had enough so we caught the next train home to Paris which took about 1.5hrs at it had some stops along the way.

If you go to Rouen remember it can be a lot colder than Paris.

Till next time,
Schnauzer

But it was really cold in Paris today, too!

That makes me feel just a tiny bit better!!! It looked really promising this morning, what happened?

Downloading/uploading photos as I type.

Schnauzer

It was because of those terrific storms the other night. Major cold front behind them. And still 30°C in Strasbourg and Grenoble! I don't think it got above 17° today in Paris after 29° on Monday.

Here are my photos from Rouen and other bits and pieces. Quite a lot from the museum of wrought iron I have to say, I was absolutely fascinated - as you can tell.

http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk/ShareL...localeid=en_GB

Kerouac, Today, I should have worn the inappropriate outfit I had on Monday instead of todays inappropriate outfit then I would have been happy both days!!!

Schnauzer

The wrought iron museum is magnificent. I have never been there (nor even heard of it!).

Lordy, another place on my (evergrowing) list!! Wonderful pix!

Thanks for posting from Paris - really makes me want to return! I've added many places from your report to my list for future reference. I love all your pics. We were at Giverny in May of 2007 - wish we were going again this year!

Here are todays photos with the text following.

http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk/ShareL...localeid=en_GB


Thursday May 28th 09

The days are just racing to an end, only two more days left for our month. Who would have thought we could have seen so much, eaten so much and walked so much? I have really enjoyed my time here in Paris, I think I am now ready to move on, the month is long enough unless you have something more constructive to do. I would need a focus from now on, or to wait another year and then do it all again!!

We have felt so at home here, zooming around on the metro, swiping our Navigo like the locals (still in the handbag) and pushing in the carriage when really no one else could possible fit in!

One thing I have noticed is that there are a lot more homeless people just sitting on the streets begging for money. Many have dogs which just sit with them all day, causing my heart strings to tug a bit. Early on, I bought a packet of dog treats and instead of giving money I have been dishing out dog treats. I have to say they have been met with mixed reactions, most of the dogs just sniff and look at it, but I have hung around a bit and eventually they have given them a chop and got going. One cute spaniel just tossed his up in the air and had a great game with it! I was about to give one to a dog the other evening when just in front of me was a local lady giving the dog a bowl of cooked chicken, the dog preferred the chicken to my treat but hopefully he kept it for dessert. I still have a few left so I will have to start being really generous over the next two days.

Today we discovered yet another gorgeous place, the Albert Kahn Museum and garden. We took the metro all the way to Boulogne Pont de St-Cloud, the end of 10 line. The museum and garden are just pretty much there as you exit the metro. I did a bit of research on Albert after seeing a documentary on tv a while ago, I even toyed with doing a talk on him for my French class but in the end it was too difficult! Anyway he was a banker and a very wealthy man who decided he wanted to capture the world on film and photographic images during a certain time frame for prosperity. He sponsored many photographers to go around the world taking pictures. He lived in this area of Paris and built a magnificent garden around his house. There is an enormous Japanese Garden, a wild garden and other bits and pieces. On a hot day it would be a most fantastic place to take a simple sandwich and drink and enjoy the shade and peace and quiet. (except at lunch time when the kids at the next door school having their break time!!) actually it was kind of nice to hear their laughter and games. We wandered all around the garden looking at a special Indian exposition that was on regarding different tribes in India. Only photographic boards but amazing shots, such fab colours and what piercing and tattoos, we think the young have gone overboard in this area, yikes they have noting on these Indian tribes.

Also inside the main museum there was also an Indian theme of the photos taken in 1913/4 and 1927.

It was now lunchtime and I wanted to try Le Florimond. We caught the metro up to Ecole Militaire and found the restaurant. Four years ago I had wanted to try this restaurant but when we went searching we could only find some very ordinary place, I don’t know what I was looking at but certainly nothing like what we did find. I must have had the wrong address or was just in another zone at the time. It was a really cute traditional little French restaurant. They were very friendly and welcoming. We ordered the set lunch menu and both had the Terrine de campagne with salad which was really tasty, we also both had the slow cooked rabbit with zucchini which were cooked to perfection, this is probably our first time to actually receive green veges – yay, no other veges though. We finished with a fruit mousse, coulis and tuile. We were very happy and enjoyed our meal very much. Certainly the lunchtime menu is far more economical than the dinner menu. We have found that if we eat a big lunch then we really don’t eat at dinner time.

DH wanted to go back to the apartment but with only two and a half days to go I was still keen to head out for more excitement. I chose the Cluny – Middle Ages Museum. The tapestries were the highlight for me, also there was a little concert of middle age singing down in the thermal baths area, a group of young singers just giving a rendition without any music, such beautiful acoustics with the stone walls. I had spent most of the time running away from a group of pre school children on a tour, each time I thought I was rid of them, bang, they would turn up again in the room I was in. Mind you I did sit and listen to the talk their teacher gave about the lady and unicorn tapestry. I could understand their level of French which was at least something!!

I then had to extend my time just wandering around the St. Germain area and up to the metro at Pont Neuf, I just didn’t want the day to end.

I am starting to have kittens looking at all the stuff I have bought and wondering where on earth am I going to put it? I might take some books to the P.O. tomorrow and get a quote for sending some back home by mail.

I suppose I will have to dedicate some time tomorrow starting to pack etc. I hope it is warmer in Italy so I don’t have to take heavy gear.

Till Later,
Schnauzer

Second last day today. We spent it doing a Marais walk, discovering some new museums etc. We tried to have lunch at L'as Falafel but it was closed at lunchtime.

I walked around the Madeline area afterwards which was just touristy and expensive.

I will post more details later.
Schnauzer

Hi,

Well your trip is about to come to and end! That does happen.

I have been busy since my return working on things for my return arrival on Nov. 3d for the 6 weeks. You should make another trip!

Enjoy the end.... have a safe trip home..

Joan

Thanks Joan for your wishes. I would love to make another trip, but it won't be for a while. Coming from Australia takes a lot of time and a lot of money!!!! But my head is already back here at sometime.

Well we had the best meal of the trip I think tonight at Cafe qui Parle at 24 rue Caulaincourt in the 18th. It had been recommended by a few people, in particular the Laidbacks. I had walked passed it once and dismissed it as a bit "bar" looking. Anyway we decided tonight was the night. We caught the metro to Lamark and walked down, it quite close to the cemetery end of rue Caulaincourt.

We hadn't booked but the restaurant was not busy. The staff were very friendly and welcoming and the chef Damien was in the kitchen.

We had the home made foie gras for starters, as my lamb was going to take a while to cook the waiter suggested that we had a starter to share. It came with 2 pieces of foie gras and baguette toast and extra bread also, there was a lovely fig jam to accompany it. Absolutely gorgeous!

I ordered the Roasted Rack of lamb with greeen anis and saffron polenta and a basil juice with whole pinenuts. The lamb racks were very generous in size, 2 chops each and the polenta just gorgeous. The anis - whatever that was gave the lamb an amazing flavour. I ordered the lamb rose and it was cooked to perfection. DH ordered the Beef Tenderloin roasted with bone marrow with spicy and sour potatoes. These were potato cakes cooked with a mustard and then panfried to make the outsides crunchy. The beef was a beautiful cut and cooked rare and again to perfection.

We were fit to bursting but I had to try the desserts to see if they matched the other courses. I ordered a coffee plate which came with a coffee and three mini desserts. I was a little disappointed as they were all creamy in consistency with no variation. I had the cottage cheese with raspberries, pictachio and meringue (which I didn't like), Creme Brulee with cassis and white chocolate and a light chocolate and tonka fava mousse on a crispy almond butter bar. These two were quite nice but not exceptional.

The meal totalled 71 euro and that included two glasses of wine. It was absolutely fantastic and I cannot recommend it highly enough. Really innovative cooking with style and taste. As I said the best meal yet - in a month. The cafe is not particularly classy to look at but the food far outweighs the ambience.

I am just waiting for the photos. I will post them in a minute.

also today we found the Cognacq-Jay Museum in the Marais rue Elzevir, a lovely private looking museum but gratuit! Some rare works of art and the most exquiste small pieces of furniture. Well worth a visit.

Photos next post,
Schnauzer

Here are a couple of todays photos and our dinner tonight.

http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk/ShareL...localeid=en_GB

schnauzer

Schnauzer, did I read that you are you off to Italy (really? lucky dog) now?

I haven´t been able to view your photos since arriving in Paris because I don´t think the apartment computer has...? Could you provide a gallery link <i>and</i> a slideshow link? I think the slideshow is what´s mucking me up.

I went to the Cognacq-Jay my first day this time. Nice, isn´t it? Saw Maison Victor Hugo this morning.

Bon voyage!

Leely2,

I forgot to ask, how was your visit to St. Germain en Laye? I hope you enjoyed it and found your way there easily.

Let me know what you saw and did.

Schnau