I just got back from staying in an apt. in Trastevere. I've stayed in Pantheon area and P. Navona area, but this is so much more "authentic" to me. I LOVED it. The tiny little streets, the lack of crowds, ... every day when I returned there I felt like I was coming home. I did not feel it was dirty and did not for one minute ever feel unsafe. I loved it so much, I'm going back in March!!