Rome 1st Time - Wish you'd known, tips, unexpected surprises
 

Hello to "Rome been-there, than that" travelers. As Fodorites, you all are well-researched travelers. But no amount of research beats experiencing the reality. Please share tips, logistics and insights and wish you'd known this or that in your travel to Rome. But only found out the reality of it once you got there. Such as you'd rather have stayed in this area or that. I'm very interested in areas that have easy access to good restaurants, dinner.

I will be in Rome 4 nights next year, 2nd half of May. My last trip to Italy was 5 years ago. in the past, instead of Rome, I visited other Italy destinations such as Venice, Firenze, Liguria, etc.

I'm very interested in time saving tips, how you grouped together the sites you wanted to see. Practical aspects such as if you had problems using a certain credit card brand. I have various Chip/Signature cards that I've been using in France and Spain as recent as 3 months ago with no problems.

I'm interested in the big attractions : Colosseum, Forum, Vatican, etc. and just wandering around the city for 1 day to soak in the Roman atmosphere and seeing Pantheon and various Plazas, Borghese gardens etc. I am very well-traveled. I know the drill. It's just that, it's been a long 5 yrs since my last trip to Italy and I'm sure a lot of things has changed. Yeah, it is time to go back.
I have read 4 books in Rome. But you know that's dry narrative VS your actual tips and insights. Thank you all.

Book the Colosseum and Vatican Museums online at the official sites to save waiting hours in lines.
http://biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do
http://www.coopculture.it/en/colosseo-e-shop.cfm

Make sure you take official white taxis and their meters are running. A trip from Termini station to, say, Piazza Navona should cost no more than 10 euro.

Stay central - somewhere around the Pantheon or Piazza Navona - easy walking to the sights including the Colosseum and St. Peter's. If you prefer, Trastevere around Piazza Santa Maria and toward Ponte Sisto is picturesque and charming.

Take a walk around the Jewish Ghetto - it is still relatively undisturbed by tourists and there are some great spots to eat there. The Portico of Octavia is being restored but there is a walkway past it and around the outside of the Theatre of Marcellus with lots of great explanatory signage. A quick walk up the hill from here will bring you to the Capitoline.

Coliseum to the Forum to Trevi Fountain to Pantheon to Piazza Navona to Campo de Fiori (also up to Spanish Steps and Via Veneto) is totally walkable in one long, easy plod (though you won't be the only ones!).

To skirt around these areas after you've walked the center (and away from the hordes) consider renting a bicycle. For me it made it a super easy and convenient trip from Trajan Forum to Colisuem to Circus Maximus, Temple of Apollos Solisano, through the Jewish Ghetto, Isola Tiberina, all around the winding streets through Travastere, up through the park Giancolo with nice views to the city (though uphill to get there) then down to the Vatican and back into town. You'd think traffic would be scary but instead it's a breeze - - even busier streets are so unevenly-wide that there is always room for bikes, and drivers were ultra-respectful. Pictures here starting the middle of the page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dougla...57637640291643

Watch out for scam artists and pickpockets - carry valuables in a secure under your clothing money belt or pouch - not to worry you but if you realize there is a problem and take precautions the problem is no problem for you. Several folks on Fodor's report being pickpocketed - carry nothing valuable in a day pack - even at the Vatican there can be problems in crowded areas.

Here's my blog post on resources for Rome, lots of links and ideas...

http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2014/...urces+for+Rome

Been reading some forum posts about Rome. Some travelers want to be by the Pantheon, Navona area. Yet some would say too noisy, tourist-trap central. This statements give the impression that pantheon and Piazza Navona is like staying by Barcelona's Las Ramblas? or Madrid's Puerta del Sol? Or by Firenze's Duoumo?

What do you think about the area between Margutta to Campo Marzio VS Piazza Navonna?

Thanks for your tips, Blueeyed, Pal, dfour, welltrav.

We just went in July, and stayed in the Piazza Navona. It was the PERFECT location. We did AirBNB and got a really great price for an apartment for 4 days. We could walk everywhere!

We ate at Roscioli in Piazza Navona, which was one of the best meals! Also heard that Armando al Pantheon was great.

Things we'd do differently:
We did SO MANY tours in order to "skip the line" but regretted it. The tours were boring, particularly the colosseum. We requested a night tour that was cancelled at there last minute by City Wonders and they could only rebook us into a night tour 2 hours after our flight landed. That was brutal. I'd buy skip the line passes but wander on my own.

Go see the colosseum at night! We were too tired on our last night and regretted it.

Vatican was absolutely insane, but worth seeing, even if you're not religious.

We loved Rome. We LOVED it. We did a lot of restaurant research so as to avoid tourist traps and it paid off.

You should be ok in May I think, but we had no idea how unbearably hot it would be. We knew, but we didn't KNOW. We were miserable.

The Trevi Fountain was completely under construction which was disappointing - not sure when it is to reopen.

Our BIGGEST do better was trying to fit in and order food the way italians do. IT WAS SO EXPENSIVE. Stick to the pasta as your main course, save some money, and don't waste food. We did that for about a week before we realized how much money and food we were wasting in order to fit in and not offend.

We also struggled with no lunch menus and what to eat at lunch. Find some markets!

Last thing - unless you reaaally love art, I found the Borghese totally boring, especially after days of the colosseum, Vatican museum etc. I would skip it, but we really enjoyed the Borghese gardens.

One more thing - we walked everywhere! The Rome maps were really challenging to navigate so we took a couple of morning cabs, but we eventually got the hang of it. Everywhere was walkable from Piazza Navona.

We did:
Day 1 Colosseum and Roman Forum
Day 2 Vatican and walk back through the shopping streets.
Day 3 Borghese

You could potentially do more than one of these in a day but it would be a lot. Pantheon could be fit in with colosseum or Borghese as it is a short visit and on the way. Vatican should really be its own day - do a morning and then spend the afternoon wandering Rome on your way back home.

Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountains are beside each other, and visiting at night after dinner is enough.

I'm the opposite to Alexandrak. I absolutely loved the Villa Borghese - it was so quiet and intimate compared to places like the Vatican, and the sculptures were unbelievable. Pre-book your visit online for that before you go, or I don't think you'll get in. We also found the underground tour of Basilica San Clemente to be really interesting. We stayed in a hotel near the Pantheon last time, and it was not noisy at all.

My husband and I went to Rome in 1998 with a tour group. I found it to be my least favorite city in Italy, it was chaotic, big and noisy. Many years later, we went on our own to Italy and loved Rome! I think what changed my mind was that I broke down the city into individual neighborhoods and explored them more intimately. It was so much less overwhelming and I could appreciate everything in smaller doses.
I loved the Borghese gallery- was lucky enough to walk up and snag 2 tickets.(probably not the best plan). The statues were amazing. Also loved Trastevere and would like to stay here on my next trip.

We loved Rome. Maybe just expect to get lost and carry a water bottle which you will easily be able to fill over the city. Know that they drive with little to no regard for traffic rules, which to me is quite entertaining.

We spent one night recently at a hotel next to the Pantheon and the noise did not bother us at all. The nice thing was that the piazza was completely empty in the morning while it is packed the rest of the time.

I also loved Borghese Gallery...the detail in the sculptures was incredible.

We used Walks of Italy for small tours a few years ago. I don't like tours but they did a great job start to finish. I think they only take 10-12 people per group.

The sheer history of it all floored us in Rome! I hope you enjoy Rome as much as we did.

You haven't actually said you're interested in art and artifacts, but FWIW we also loved the Galleria Borghese as well as some lesser-known museums. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Palazzo Altemps, Ara Pacis.

And archeology sights beyond the usual tourist stops: Domus Aurea near the Colosseo and the Scavi beneath St. Peter's. Both require reservations, through the Vatican for the Scavi.

Interesting history and/or views of the city: Castello Sant'Angelo, Vittorio Emanuelle Monument.

With only 3 days, you'll have to very selective in your sightseeing. We like to stay in the area between Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps, not too close to either one.

Piazza opposite the pantheon is great for sitting with a drink and watching the world go by in the late afternoon. A couple of cafes and we found one that served little bites with your drink.

Get to the Colosseum early and then head to the forum with a GOOD guide books. This place is the political,cultural and religious center of ancient Rome and there is a huge amount to be learned there. Do be sure you know the basics of Roman history before you go so you are not lost.

I did not like the area around Domus Aurea two weeks ago. There were a lot of young immigrant guys just hanging around various part of this mini park area. I could not see what they were doing. It was around 11 a.m. in the morning.

You asked about the Campo Marzio area. We go to Rome fairly often, have stayed all over, and this is my very favorite area. So yeah, I think it's a good place to stay.

You ask about how to spend your days. Yes, grouping activities is good, but I would not leave an entire day for wandering. Instead, I would build free time in to each day, so that as you come across places or have the time and inclination, you can take a little to wander about. The bit of wander time in a day of sightseeing has really been some of our best times.

I would also suggest, again based on things I've enjoyed tremendously, a visit to someplace off the beaten track. Rome is the most interesting city because of the layers of history and the myriad ways it's been explored and exploited.

The biggest attractions are great, but IMO they don't make the city in the way some others do.

I applaud your choice to do that reading; I do it too. But now take it and make a list of the things that intrigue YOU the most. Add a couple of those things to your itinerary.

I would tell you what mine are, but they may have nothing to do with what you like or desire to experience.

IME, the best way to learn what you didn't know to ask is by consulting a good guidebook.

I don't find guide books all that great - they are still a subjective opinion from someone and how often are they updated? I think by the time the editors source contributors, the contributors do their on the ground (hopefully) research, write it up, it gets edited, goes to the publisher .... and so on.... the information is outdated. I have a Lonely Planet guide book on Naples and the Amalfi Coast that still mentions the Metro del Mare that hasn't run for years.
Guide books are good for timeless information - such as background history on a site and its location.
Try this website for current information on Rome

http://www.buzzinrome.com/

I really enjoyed walking down the via Coronari (you'll see theology students) and the Monti area.

I loved sipping coffee in the Jewish ghetto on a Saturday or Sunday morning. Nice atmosphere.

Trastevere is always delightful.

Rooftop bars with lounge chairs. On a warm evening in a peaceful surrounding, there's nothing that beats that.

Explore. Walk. Let yourself get lost. Rome is so full of surprises.

Taxis are cheap.

Booking on-line: this is the key to seeing the main attractions. The Vatican museum is lovely on Friday nights.

Blueeyedcod: I clicked on your link. It's fantastic. I love the idea of scooterino, the uber of scooters. Thanks for sharing.

Do eat as Romans do, so the menu of the day E13 is a great way to eat, but so are the smaller buffet type places where they queue up.

Do go to the typewriter https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altare_della_Patria one of the best sites for a great view of the place, plus the cocktails are not too expensive.

Do walk, but do make sure you footwear is up to it

@ kleeblatt - yes it's a good site - this is another one but more geared toward the expat community in Rome - however also good for what's going on

http://www.wantedinrome.com/

I don't know what Rome was like five years ago, but something tells me that the motorcycles had not yet made quite the inroads as a form of transportation. I was in Rome last week and the virtually constant roaring and whizzing of the Hundreds of THOUSANDS of motorcycles, coupled with the even higher number of autos, a staggering number of GIGANTIC, diesel powered tour busses and a sea of humanity--most with cigarettes in hand--trying to traverse the 12" wide sidewalks, got to be quite disgruntling, long before the end of the day. Colleseum? Pantheon? The Vatican? Save your lungs, your heart, your sanity and your money and look at the photos online. Rome just isn't worth the trouble, not anymore. AND, you are thinking MAY???? Seriously, ask your friends to hold an "intervention" for you. We were here in October and it was hot, humid and PACKED with tourists. May will be so much worse.

Several years ago we let our children help us with planning things to do in each of the cities we visited. My cat-loving son found the Cat Sanctuary where volunteers take in all the stray cats in the area and take care of them in some of the old Roman ruins. For a cat loving family it was pretty neat. Certainly something off the beaten path for many tourists. It is right down town and within walking distance of may sites. Check out http://www.romancats.com/torreargent...troduction.php

If you like gardens, which just did a tour of the Vatican gardens with a guide and loved it.

On our first trip to Rome 7 years ago I didn't expect to like it and I loved it. 4 trips later I still love it and didn't find it any more crowded than my first trip.

The Ara Pacis is a nice small museum that is uncrowded and has a nice wine bar nearby named Gusto, where I always stop for a refreshment.

I'm OP of this thread. You fodorites are so reliable with helpful info. Grazie X10.

My 4 nites/3.5 days in Rome rough itinerary.
Day 1: 1/2 day getting situated, leisurely lunch, maybe see pantheon, Castel S'Angel. The easy ones.
Day 2: Colloseum, Forum, Palatine,
Day 3: Vatican/ Trastevery (Friday)
Day 4: Borghese Gallery and gardens/P de Popolo.

Will see some churches and plazas such as trevi, spagna, Venezia and others along the way to/from sites. I'm the kind of traveler that like to soak in the city atmosphere and wander. Poke into shops and sit at cafes.

Before visiting a city, European, or those outside of the US, I always read about the BAD things about it. I "You Tube" and "google walk" the heck out of every city to the point that I feel that I've been there before once I get there.

I have a realistic expectation about Rome: the graffiti, crowd, traffic, pick-pockets. Somehow, it makes me all the more curious if I will survive it. :-) I've survived Athens, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Florence, etc, and some chaotic 3rd world Asian cities. Surely I will survive Rome.

Streamliner, I'm sorry that you had such a bad experience in Rome after spending your vacation time and $$$. Thanks for sharing your experiences in your Trip Report.

I have just returned from my 5 th visit to Rome. Love it. Like others have sais in is quite easy to walk from site to site.

If you can work it in do go to the Capuchin Crypt near Piazza Barbirini.

A new place we found was the Domus Romane. This villa was opened to the public in recent years. I would advise getting advance tickets as there are limited numbers (15) of people allowed entrance at one time. A plexiglass floor has been placed over top of the ruins. As you progress along lights will illuminate a feature as the audio guide provides an insight to the life of a Roman. At one point the guide opens a door and you are looking at the base of Trajans Column.

It is located beside the Piazza Venezia in the Palasso Valentini.

Trajans Column and other fora are located across the street from the Roman Forum so would fit in quite nicely on Day 2 of your itinerary.

Streamliner - I really feel for you that Rome was such a let down. How was Tuscany? Florence? I hope that you found the Italy that you were searching for somewhere.

going back to Ffpizz - of course you will survive Rome - it's just a big city in a way, though a very special one.

it's a good idea, I think, to schedule one big attraction per day, and then see what time, and energy, you have left. However, your first ½ day leaves out a number of interesting places that you can see in the "centro storico" without going as far as the Castel San Angelo, which it would make more sense to leave until your "Vatican" day.

I would suggest going from the Pantheon to the Basilica of Santa Maria sopra Minerva [look for the elephant on the top of the column outside] and then head for the Corso from where you will get a view of monument at the top of the piazza Venezia aka the "typewriter". Also in the via Corso is the entrance to the Galleria Doria Pamphilij, where you have the chance to learn about the lives of one of Rome's great families and to see a wonderful collection of art, with very few other people around. then take any of the little streets off to the left in order to get back to the Pantheon. there are no wrong turnings in Rome - there is something interesting on every street and street corner.

on your Vatican day, you can book an entrance ticket in advance or a tour. Whichever, take the chance if you can to leave the Sistine Chapel through the rear group exit door which takes you down some steps to a door on your left; go through it and you find yourself on some stairs round the back of St Peters which lead to the front of the Basilica. You have just avoided a very long walk around the walls of the Vatican and the queues to get through security again.

once you have toured the Basilica, you can go to the Castel San Angelo, and/or Trastevere, which is indeed a very nice area to walk around, but perhaps might be more fun at night. You might also think about a walk around the Ghetto and lunch there - the food is very good.

in 3 visits to Rome I've not yet made it to the Borghese - next time perhaps - so I can't help you with that.

FYI, Ara Pacis is about halfway between Castel Sant'Angelo and Piazza del Popolo.

http://en.arapacis.it/

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Cast...41.9107038!3e2

I recommended a good guidebook upthread, and since that recommendation has been challenged, I wanted to explain my reasoning:

Although I, personally, find much merit in consulting a few good guidebooks, their value IMO is not primarily tied to finding hotels or restaurants or opening hours. The main value, even for experienced travelers, but especially for novice ones, is learning what one never thought to ask. Things like: Should you tip, and if so, who and in what amount? Are there hand gestures or other nonverbal signals that have very different meanings in the culture to which you will travel than in your own? What are the local food or beverage specialtes, and local handcrafts, that you might want to seek? What are typical opening hours and national holidays, and are there local festivities you might want to enjoy? Stuff like that. AND – bonus – all in the same book that has maps and a brief phrase book and some information about history and culture and context and basic lists of key contacts in each city, not to mention information about how to get around and what might want to see and experience, and – in the better guidebooks – information about transportation options between key cities (how, how long, how often). Yes, any info about opening hours, not to mention housing or dining options, is best confirmed via the internet when possible, but guidebooks easily merit their generally nominal costs, IMO – and for that matter, you may be able to consult them for free at a library.

Agree Kja.

My method of planning a trip for a group of people (10+):

1. Choose a destination that you would like to see 7 months before the actual trip.
2. Go to a travel agency and get an offer for a flight/package deal for a specific time.
3. Contact a tour guide and ask him to put together an itinerary for 3 days.
3. Do intensive research on the net by surfing and asking questions on forums. Also buy a guide book.
4. Write down a plan and itinerary and send it out to the other travel members of the group
5. Book
6. Begin researching the destination again, looking for restaurants, events and other things to do.
7. Organise a meet up with a local from the area.
8. Start the trip
9. Become aquainted with the receptionist at the hotel. Have them book restaurants if not booked previously.
10. Treat the guide with respect by showing up on time and showing interest.
11. Have fun at the meet up.
12. Relax and enjoy the trip.

The maps in the books are fantastic but sometimes hotels supply even better maps of the area.


My method of planning a trip for 1 - 4 people:

1. 3-4 months before going, decide on a destination.
2. Research hotels and flights
3. Book via internet
4. Buy a guidebook and slowly read up on the destination
5. Two weeks before going, do some intensive research on the internet
6. Make a rough itinerary. Do any internet pre-bookings
7. Go and enjoy! Be flexible, enjoy time sitting at cafes and just talking with each other while absorbing the energy of the atmosphere around you.

I'm lucky enough to be able to do both kinds of travel. I don't have a partner to travel with but I have like-minded friends who make brilliant travel companions.

This has less to do with Rome than how to travel generally. Sorry about going off course (but isn't that what travel can be about?)

Do book Vatican in advance, but you don't need to book Colosseum. In fact the line of booked people in front of Colosseum is longer then the line of unbooked ones. Or you can always buy the ticket at Roman Forum, which includes Colosseum, and at which the line is not long.

I speak from my experience of being there right in JULY this year. In the middle of the top crowded season. It's not that crowded and hot as people made it sound like (or it depends on your level of tolerance).

Do not take pictures with the scams who dress in ancient outfit outside of Colosseum or other Roman ruins. They'll charge you 20 Euros :D

If you like ice cream, always have a handful of cash in your wallet :D

Love to read traveler experience .. so many goods things are there ...

Carry a water bottle. Every (well, almost every) fountain has a tap where you can get potable water that is actually quite delicious.

Check for holidays preferably before you book your tickets because there will be closures and crowded, less frequent transportation.

I think your schedule is a good one for someone with four days and no particular interest in churches, art in churches, or church architecture. If it rains . . . .

We rode the minibus through the grounds of the Borghese. Because the people waiting for the bus were not standing in a queue at the shelter but churning around and hanging out, the driver ignored them and left them standing open-mouthed.

I am lost in admiration of Kleebatt's trip planning process. It is going into my permanent file.

Carry a water bottle. Every (well, almost every) fountain has a tap where you can get potable water that is actually quite delicious.>>

I've posted here before that I was in the Forum once, refiling my water bottle from one of the water fountains, when I overheard a french mother berating her son that he shouldn't ever do such a dirty thing. Shame that he may never know the pleasure of drinking water, cold and fresh, straight from a roman fountain.

<<Do book Vatican in advance, but you don't need to book Colosseum. In fact the line of booked people in front of Colosseum is longer then the line of unbooked ones. Or you can always buy the ticket at Roman Forum, which includes Colosseum, and at which the line is not long.>>

FuryFluffy - I'm not doubting your experience at all, but this is the first time I've ever seen it suggested that it is a bad idea to obtain tickets for the Colosseum in advance. I suspect that most people's experience would be the opposite i.e. that it's much better to buy your ticket in advance, or at the Forum entrance, rather than to join the ticket queue at the Colosseum. Certainly on the 3 times I've been, that's what we found.

Early access to the Sistine Chapel was something we loved. We met a guide about 7:30. She guided a group of 12 through the long galleries to the Sistine Chapel. We were the first in the Chapel and were able to spend as long as wished there. The guide stayed for about 15 minutes to answer our questions. The ticket included the Vatican Museums, so after spending a peaceful half an hour or so in the Chapel, we were able to move to other areas of the Museums to explore key areas before the crowds. Walking around so early was truly incredible and worth the, approx. 50 Euros.

To get a wonderful views of Rome take the elevator to the top of the Victor Emmanuel Monument (7 Euros)

We rented an apartment very close to the Pantheon. This allowed us so many dining options around the Pantheon, Campo de Fiori, Piazza Navona, the Ghetto and Trastevere. Accommodation near any of these means you can walk almost everywhere. We really only took buses to the Vatican and Gallery Borghese. Buses are cheap, frequent and very easy to use.

The Bernini sculptures in the Gallery Borghese are not to be missed, but you need to buy tickets ahead.

annhig: because every "know" that they should book tickets before hand, so the line of the booked people in Colosseum is rather long. And I think I'm not the first person to say that. I encountered that opinion several times on internet (in TA maybe). When I saw an enormous line in front of Colosseum, I felt panicked and joined the line immediately. After 5 mins, my mom had to yank me ouf of it to the real line of non-ticket people, which took me directly to the ticket counter :)

I'm not doubting you, FF, I just think that was very unusual and I've never seen it said before. My experience has always been the exact opposite.

This is a nice thread. We are just back from Rome. Agree with others that the Galleria Borghese was a highlight of our trip. I did a blog post about it here: https://polloplayer.wordpress.com/20...eria-borghese/

The day we were there they were turning people away with the next available opening four days hence, so you absolutely must purchase your tickets ahead.

Someone mentioned Armando al Pantheon. It was one of our best dining experiences in Rome. As was Alfredo alls Scrofa, surprisingly: https://polloplayer.wordpress.com/20...i-secondi-nap/

Something I knew ahead but didn't want to accept so I ignored it is the fact that Rome is all about hills and stairs. Yes, I know it is the city of seven hills but somehow I thought it wouldn't interfere with my back problems and need for flat walking. You won't see much if you aren't able to climb hills and stairs. The flattest area seems to be in the neighborhoods near the Pantheon. We stayed on Via Veneto and climbed the hill from Piazza Barberini several times a day. It was all worth it.

Loved, loved Rome!

Two favorite things we have done in Rome (both need reservations):

Scavi Tour underneath St. Peters
Borghese Gallery (Bernini baby!)

((H))

My two favourites:

climbing the Dome of St Peter's

exploring the tiny streets in the triangle between the river [the Tevere or Tiber] the cross Vittorio Emmanuele and the Piazza Navona. I could spend days round there.

eating fiori fritti. I could do that all day too.

[sorry, that's 3]