Restaurant suggestions for Bilbao and San Sebastian
 

Really enjoyed MikelG's post on the Basque region. I will be in Bilbao and San Sebastian in early June. Do you have any new restaurant suggestions for these cities. Thank you.

Bilbao: La Vina del Ensanche
San Sebastian / Donostia: Casa Urola

You might look at my trip report, particularly post # 7, Days 13 - 17.
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...lunya-1047395/

I have many, many, but what type of food and what kind of budget?

One of the things I enjoy when planning meals for my trips is to decide among a variety of options that include differing types of foods and span a range of budgets. I would never restrict myself without knowing my options!

Budget for restaurants is, IMO, a strange concept. If I go to the restaurant's website, and if the menu is posted, I can choose whether I might want to go there for lunch or dinner. Or maybe I can go for dinner -- if I have a salad and appetizer (usually more than enough for me). Or wow, look at the options for a pre fixe dinner! or gosh, this is exactly what I wanted for a splurge.... Honestly, how does knowing an OP's budget help you know what they might want? And really, why not let them choose?

And IMO, no one should disclose budget information on a public forum. For ANY reason.

I know that everyone who participates on this forum has different perspectives on things, and I treasure the fact that Fodorites choose different ways to contribute to this forum -- wouldn't life be boring if we all saw things the same way? But FWIW, if anyone has suggestions, I just wish they'd offer them. JMO.

Thank you for your recommendations kja. I’m meeting friends in Bilbao next week and La Vina del Ensanche looks perfect; it seems they are open all day so we can eat at a weird hour (they are arriving from California, so will be a bit out of it.)

@ rialtogrl: If your experience at La Vina del Ensanche is anything like mine, you'll have a fantastic time! It's been 10 years, but I still vividly remember parts of that meal and the kindness and helpfulness of the wait staff. Such a delightful meal! I hope that you and your Californian friends enjoy your time in this amazing part of the world.

"No one should disclose a budget on a public forum?" Why not?
What good is it for me to offer a list of tapas bars when the person is looking for multi-Michelin stars? Or vice versa.

Sorry, Kja..I don't get it. People disclose hotels budget all the time on this forum, and people also tell us what they paid for a night at a hotel.
When I write a trip report I try to include the price of the meal.
Should I be worried that I am disclosing too much? What risks am I taking?
You and I appear to have very different travel styles and there should be room here for both of us. Please do not come here to criticize my attempts to help others.

And yes, LA VINA DEL ENSANCHE is a good place with both a bar area and a more pricey "gastronomic" space.
EL GLOBO is a treasure with good pintxos and sit-down dining. Two locations:

https://www.barelglobo.es/en/




The heart of Bilbao eating is in the Casco Viejo where there is a clutch of excellent bars for pinxtos. I'll be happy to offer some suggestions if you like.
One would be the architectural treasure LOS FUEROS, offering superb pintxos for almost 150 years. Worth going too see the interior:

https://losfueros.com


Maribel's Guide to Bilbao is just about the only resource you need for dining in Bilbao; it's almost ten years old but most of the places she lists in that casual category are still going strong:.
She's got another guide to Donostia.

http://www.maribelsguides.com/mg_bilbao_2016.pdf

I do not think La Viña del Ensanche offers meals at any time, it´s a bar (which is non-stop, but it´s not a restaurant), an atelier (which most likely has our standard eating times, I would not expect it to offer dinners before 8pm -and that´s early for us, as you know- or lunches before 0130pm) and a shop. They say they are open all day but I think it refers to the bar (you can only have pintxos there, it´s not a restaurant).

thanks Mikel. I’m sure pintxos will suffice!

@ mikelg: Thanks for clarifying! FWIW, I enjoyed La Vina del Ensanche's degustation menu at a lovely outdoor table starting at 22:15; it looks like they still provide that option or something similar. I was glad I had a reservation, as it was very busy!

@ ekscruncy: "What good is it for me to offer a list of tapas bars when the person is looking for multi-Michelin stars? Or vice versa." IMO, it allows the OP -- or any other viewers of this thread -- to consider a range of options. It looks like we agree that it's a good thing that Fodorites are free to offer whatever advice they choose, even when we disagree, and although we have a difference of opinion on this particular issue, I commend you for your many efforts to be of help to other travelers.

Just yesterday I was looking at some eateries in Madrid . The menu posted on the webpages clearly indicated the prices.
It is helpful to get the names of restaurants, it is easy to find out the possible bill amount.
SS may be just a bit different considering the number of very expensive Michelin star restaurants.
When it comes to hotel recommendations , it seems a good idea to indicate the rate flexibility.

Rialtogrl, pintxos are never a meal for us and for that reason you cannot book a table for pintxos in a bar, but you can go off pintxos time and it'll be less busy.

yes, I know, if we need a traditional meal, I’m sure we can adapt.

These places are perhaps dated by now but still:

-el Fuego Negro

-La Cuchara de San Telmo

-*our absolute favorite is Bar Nestor-best tortilla we've ever tasted *go early at opening time coz they sell out quickly.

-Bodegon Alejandro

-Gandarias
I am done. The diners.

Thank you KJA and Ekscrunchy for your suggestions. I am a seafood lover but am open to any option. As far as budget, I am not looking for Michelin starred restaurants but would like ideas for favorite dining experiences. I do have Maribel's guide but was hoping for a more updated list. MikelG- any suggestions? Thanks for clarification on La Vina Del Eensanche.

Some of the restaurants I like in Bilbao:- Urregin, one of my favorite places in the old town, gluten-free certified, excellent relationship quality/price, cozy atmosphere in a small place. Nearby, Lasa and Anboto offer excellent daily menus but also great à la carte meals. The three in the old town.

- Martxo, similar to Urregin, in the upper part of town

- Porrue, for top, advanced but very local product cuisine.

- In the old area, Bilbao La Vieja (not old quarter, facing it), Al Margen…perfect for vegetarians, its oven broccoli is very famous. Also, Nura, Txuqun and, for great rices, Sokarrat.

- Arandia, top local products served in an informal Basque atmosphere.

- Kimtxu, for Basque-Asian food, a mix that really works

- La Despensa de Etxanobe, top quality products in a modern atmosphere

- Mandoya, a renovated classic in the old quarter

- Los Fueros, the oldest running restaurant in Bilbao, it has become quite touristy (still good, though)

- Txirene, classic with a modern touch, one of my favorites too

- 11 Aldeanos, excellent steaks, with other two similar restaurants by the same owner, Doze and Bilbao Te Quiero.

- Salitre, Michelin quality at a much lower price

- Lasai Bilbao, great relationship quality-price.

- Markina, for the classic Basque meals, Product, Product and Product

- Islares, brand new one, avant-garde dishes.

- Serantes III, for excellent seafood, fish and meats, can´t go wrong here

- La Bodeguita del Doce, informal atmosphere for light dinners

- Odoloste, advanced cuisine based on pork products, with a modern touch

- Burgoa, a classic for excellent meals, product is paramount

- La Taska de Isozaki, again, product and product

- La Viña de Henao and La Viña de Abelardo, perfect for a daily menu or some platters

And for Donostia-San Sebastian (I live in Bilbao, so my knowledge is a bit more limited here):

- CASA UROLA, www.casaurolajatetxea.es/en/portada/, great pintxos as well, product, product and product! Its bar offers great ready made pintxos too.

- KOKOTXA, www.restaurantekokotxa.com/, a “cheap” Michelin star.

- KASKAZURI, excellent food at excellent value

- REKONDO, www.rekondo.com/en/, a classic, if you like wine this is the place to go, amazing wine cellar

- EL MIRADOR DE ULÍA, www.miradordeulia.es/, 1 Michelin star, the best views of the city

- BODEGÓN ALEJANDRO, www.bodegonalejandro.com/, cozy place, you have to go downstairs for the restaurant, feels like at home.

- AMELIA, http://ameliarestaurant.com, one of the best Michelin starred restaurants

- XARMA, www.xarmacook.com , for avant-garde cuisine.

- CASA 887, https://www.grupo887.com/, classy and a mix of different cuisines.

- ZELAI TXIKI

- IKAITZ in Gros neighbourhood, off the most touristy area

- BODEGÓN USARBI

- GALERNA JAN EDAN
Hope the above helps, I¨ve missed a few but this would be a good list for restaurants inside both cities.

KJA: Do you believe that the dozens upon dozens of posters on this forum who let us know how much they paid for a hotel, or what their prospective hotel budget amounts to, are taking a big risk? What risk, exactly, are they taking?


<<<<And IMO, no one should disclose budget information on a public forum. For ANY reason.>>>>


So you think that by my posting the total bill for a dinner, in Spain or anywhere else, is a potential risk to me? (I've been doing this for years, both here and on the late Chowhound and the other currently popular US food site, where most of us state the price we paid, along with our descriptions of meals.).

What scenario are you imagining? And if you feel that this is a dangerous mistake, why have you not warned me, or others in the past who state their budgets or price paid, for hotels and restaurants?

I'm curious; perhaps there is something vile out there that Ii never imagined--I don't think so, but always willing to learn.

@ ekscrunchy -- FWIW, I think that saying what one did pay for something (which doesn't indicate how it fits within your usual budget, or even whether you yourself paid) is different than specifying a budget ... which provides nefarious souls with some (adimittedly limited) information about your finances. In today's world, with hackers and the ease with which onscreen names can be linked to specific people, I don't think it's wise to provide any more personal information than necessary on a public, non-secured website. And ibecause we can all now research menus on line and use booking.com, I honestly don't understand why anyone would take that risk. But that's just me. You are free to make your own risk assessments.

Ok, fair enough. I'm not sure I agree with you but I see your point. Always better to say less than say too much. But how can we help fellow travelers if we keep back so many details? Financial cost is such a big issue when planning a trip. Getting back to the original post here--if someone asks me to recommend a restaurant in my home city, of course Ii am going to ask how much they want to spend; other wise I'd be writing a veritable guidebook to restaurants in NYC in all the various price categories...

But would these creeps also get a window into your finances if you post that you paid hundreds of dollars for a restaurant meal? (Which I do not)

I mean, seriously, there are probably thousands of posts mentioning hotel, rental car, restaurant, etc prices on this site--do you think even one Fodorite has had any negative results from doing so?

When I first read your thoughts about this I thought you were far off base, but in today's world, I suppose it's better to keep quiet about certain things.
What I don't understand is people posting family photos and dates of an upcoming vacation on social media (which I do not use). Talk about a possible scary outcome from doing just that!

Although many of us have already put a ton of into out there!!!

All interesting; maybe we ought to begin a thread about this--see what people here think about posting the price parameters..

I will weigh into this reluctantly.
My “credentials”: I am a personal friend of mikelg of long standing and wherever he has sent us in Bilbao has been delightful.
I also travel to San Sebastián 3 times a year and our dear friend, who is the owner of the Basque Country’s original food and wine touring company, who is also miguelg’s friend, keeps me abreast of the current gastro scene.

My recommendations for sure bets for sit down dining in the Old Quarter: Casa Urola, without question, Astelena, Zazpi in the Museo San Telmo, Bodegón Alejandro, where Berasategui got his start and where we had a festive eve of Tamborrada meal, and the downstairs dining space of Gambara.
For pintxos there: still dependable, Casa Urola,Ganbara, Tambo (same owners), Suaa, Martínez, , La Cuchara de San Telmo, Itxaropena and Borda Berri . Several others,, as mikelg knows, have turned into “ pintxos mills”, with pintxos brought in from industrial factories outside of the city, so one needs to be careful and never accept a plate given to you by the waiter to fill it with pintxos from a groaning board. It’s just not the Basque way!. We do a walk with our local friends of 1 pintxo or 2 per bar and move on, having a moveable feast.

Visitors often forget the Gros neighborhood, where there is great pintxos dining at Bodega Donostiarra (both sides of the Calle Peña y Goñi) and further afield, Bergara Bar, which originated the “ miniature haute cuisine” movement, And there is a great wine shop/bar, Curdeleón, just uo the strreet from the exceptional Artean Barra Abierta, a counter stool only gastronomic experience. For a South American -Basque hybrid there’s Topa Sukaldería by the chef of Mugaritz , which is always fun.

Just as an update, Xarma in Gros iis now closed. But Gerald’s Bar for sit down dining is quite recommendable.

For pintxos in the center, we like Narru, La Espiga, the original Antonio Bar and the bar of Ibai is now open for pintxos weekdays. Eskscrunchy and I know Ibai before it was closed and then reopened by Paulo Airaudo, now with a Michelin star.

For Basque rib steaks I second mikel’s suggestion of Zelai, with wonderful terrace views and would add Aratz in the Antiguo neighborhood. Also in Antiguo we love to go with our local friend to Bistró Ondarreta, which is French influenced and where chefs gather after their service.

In the center for superb grilled whole fish or txuleta we go to Narru, with 1 Repsol sun, inside the wonderful Hotel Arbaso where we stayed during the Tamborrada, in front of the Catedral del Buen Pastor.

Just a few recent updates…now that I travel to the city 3 times a year to visit our friends and attend the SS Gastronomika.

I don't think you need to look any further than Maribel and Mike's reviews.
I don't need a guidebook when I go to Spain--I rely on Maribel and her guides, along with Mike and one or two others who live in Spain.

Thanks so much, but it´s really Maribel who always has the best information, I didn´t know that Xarma had closed!

Mikel (with an "l" :)

Well, you could create a document – “a veritable guidebook”-- that lists them all and link it in whenever someone asks. Or pursue publication! FWIW, when I travel in the U.S., I’m less concerned about price range (as noted above, I can look at the menu and decide whether, when, and how to go to any particular restaurant) – what I want is type of cuisine and location. AFAIK, there’s no reason to NOT ask someone about either of those things. Just a thought.

Thank you so much Mikelg and Maribel for taking the time to provide this invaluable information. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Mikel and Maribel’s posts are helpful to many, including the OP which is great, but it is unfortunate you think all the others who try to help should not be considered….

I think that knowing something about budget is important generally, and helpful on this forum. It helps people to make more helpful suggestions to the person asking the question. Knowing what someone wants to spend on a restaurant/hotel is not really indicative of their net worth or anything. Sometimes people with less financial means want to splurge, and others with more money want to eat or stay cheaply. But if I am looking for a casual, neighborhood place to eat, it's not helpful to me if I get a string of suggestions for Michelin star restaurants, nor vice versa. I, personally, do not worry about potential thieves and scammers reading between the lines of restaurant recommendations on public forums. There are so many easier ways to steal and scam. But if there are people uncomfortable with sharing budget, it's just as easy to say that-- or to just not respond to that question.

❤️❤️

Thank you!

In San Sebastián, Bilbao and the other cities or villages in the Basque Country (Getaria, Gernika, Aspe, Hondarribia, etc.) knowing one’s budget could be extremely helpful.
One can eat at Repsol guide Soletes ( modest) or throw caution to the winds at a 3 Michelin star.

One can eat very well at one of mikelg’s recommended menú del día spots in BIlbao, as we have, or enjoy a copious daily menú with him at Boliña El Viejo in Gernika, or a Batzoki in Bakio, Great prices and a totally Basque atmosphere, which mikelg has introduced us to,
or…
one with an extremely ample budget, can spend 400, even 500 euros per person with great wines at a Michelin starred temple, as a chef friend just did at Etxebarri, for his once in a lifetime meal.

In San Sebastián we’ve enjoyed a very moderately priced rice meal prepared on a Josper stove at La Rebotika or fresh fish from Cádiz at EL Pescaíto de la Bahia de Cádiz for 25-30 euros/ person, both in Antiguo, or…
one can have a blow out 3 star experience at Akelare or Arzak for 300/350/person without wine or..
anything in between…such as at the reasonably priced Txoko or Astillero or Mayflower in Getaria, which for those with a more modest budget can be an alternative to the turbot temple of Elkano (195 euros plus beverages).,

So for me it is helpful to know the person’s dining budget or style and especially whether he/ she wants to commit to a long and pricey tasting menu, before I provide recommendations that may or may not fit.
.

And yet, you were able to provide suggestions even in the absence of that information! In any case, the question is not what a recommender might find helpful, it's what information it is wise of the asker to share.

@ chale1: I am sorry that a comment I made took this thread so far from your question and hope you've gotten the info you wanted.

I think, as intelligent adults, we can all make our own judgments about how much we want to share.

Because the OP chale1, indicated “not looking for Michelin Star experiences”, none of my suggestions above were that, but instead moderate to upper moderate suggestions and high quality pintxos bars (Urola certainly as one in Donostia) and a caveat as to ones that should be avoided.

Just another warning regarding pintxos bars in the Old Quarter of San Sebastián, reported in both El Correo and El Diario Vasco recently…and a surprise to locals. Please avoid the 3 or 4 (Baztán is one, Alkalde another) that require patrons to sit and who are given a menu with numbers and a piece of paper and a pen to order one’s pintxos by number. This is not at all the traditional, local way of enjoying pintxos, which mikelg has explained to us…one or 2 pintxos per bar with friends, taken standing, then moving on to the next bar, for a moveable feast.

The article in the Diario Vasco, “Pintxos a golpe de formulario”.
The article in El Correo (maybe mikelg saw it) “Hosteleros vizcaínos rechazan la idea de pedir los pintxos con papel y boli”.

Just another update about some of those mentioned above on this thread,
MIrador de Ulía has lost its Michelin star, the newly reinvented Ibai has earned one this year and the pintxos bar AFuego Negro has closed, as the chef decamped to open Arrea! in the Alava countryside in San Campezo.
In the former space at Calle de Agosto 31 we like, as do our local friends, SSUA.

And the queues for pintxos I´ve seen in Donostia-San Sebastian, something really incredible to us! The main issue is to consider pintxos a meal, which they rarely aren´t for us, it´s just a way to have something to eat while socializing with friends. A pintxo in one hand and a glass of (natural) cider, a wine, a txakoli, a small beer (zurito)...and then pintxos time ends and you go for lunch or dinner. It´s easy, you are not really "feeding" yourself when having pintxos. Yes, I did read that article and Alcalde is one of the many that I avoid in Donostia-San Sebastian.

Another San Sebastián update, referring to the Old Quarter,
The famous tortilla of Bar Néstor comes out only twice per day, one at 1 pm and the other at 8 pm. It has become crazy to secure a slice, as one has to line up well before the bar opens to put oneself on the list for this coveted slice, and many akes delicious have walked away without one, especially during high season.
IMO, Antonio Bar in its original space on Calle Bergara and its new, much larger space on Boulevard produce an equally delicious tortilla, with caramelized onions, although just not as legendary as Bar Néstor’s.
But at Bar Néstor one can still snag a wonderful tomato salad and a rib steak, its txuleta, its other 2 claims to fame.

Also Bodega Donostiarra in two spaces now in the Gros quarter, (that visitors sometimes overlook, not leaving the Old Quarter for their pintxos crawl), here makes delicious individual tortillas of several varieties very popular with the local crowd. It’s also open for breakfast and is part of our regular rotation.

For me, pintxos are, while delicious, extremely rich. I couldn't make a meal of them because they are just so rich for me, so when I read about people doing major pintxos crawls as their meal, my stomach hurts a bit. But on the other hand, they are pretty delicious, and as many travelers to the Basque area are only there for a matter of days, I do understand the desire to gorge on them as much as possible because they are truly something not highly available in the US. Even though this isn't the way it's done by the locals.

It’s not easy for a first time visitor to the Old Quarter of San Sebastián to recognize which bar is a “pintxos mill”, unfortunately, but please stay away from those that offer lots of table seating and give you a sheet and a pen with a list of pintxos by number that you must order. These pintxos may have been prepared in an industrial kitchen outside of town and shipped in.

Still authentic: Casa Urola, Tambo, Ganbara, Cuchara de San Telmo, Borda Berri, Martínez, Ssua, Paco Bueno, Itxaropena, Gandarias, Astelena, Zazpi in the Museo de San Telmo…

But there are still more if one branches out to the center (La Espiga, Antonio Bar) or to Gros (Bergara Bar, Bodega Donostiarra) or to Antiguo (Kapela).

This does sound like information obtained from AI...

But pintxos do not have to be rich. What about more simple dishes, like the Gilda? I do agree that Ii cannot enjoy more than one pinto containing foie, but those sure are delicious.



https://www.donostiafoods.com/blogs/...KBTn4cuM61rZM8


This looks like a good article; I'll read it through, later:. I'm curious if our Spanish experts think that the information here is solid:


https://www.saveur.com/culture/best-...san-sebastian/

I know Marti, a girl from Alabama (I believe) that has been living in Donostia-San Sebastián for a few years now, and the bars and pintxos are classics in this city. Good choices, but there are so many! (just one thing...we don't call the tortilla "española" but "potato omelette" instead 😄😄

Good to know! So is it "tortilla de papa" or "tortilla de patata?" (I just thought it was either "tortilla" or "tortilla de Betanzos," "tortilla vaga," but what do I know!?


Thank you, Mike, as ever!@