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kja Aug 11th, 2024 09:34 AM

Remarkable Romania!
 
I visited Romania, as a woman traveling solo, for 22 nights in May of 2023. I hadn’t planned on writing a trip report, but decided that my experiences might prove of value or interest, so….

In this brief report, I'll
  • Outline my itinerary,
  • Indicate what I liked least about this trip, and
  • Note the things I like most about my experiences in remarkable Romania.
Itinerary:
  • Iași – 2 nights (1.5 days)
    • Then Piatra Neamț (for the Muzeul Cucuteni) and
    • Mănăstirea Agapia en route to…
  • Gura Humorului – 2 nights as a base for the painted monasteries of Bucovina (I saw Saint John the New, Pătrăuți, Arbore, Moldovița, Voroneț, and Humor)
  • Mara – 2 nights
    • as a base for the wooden churches of Maramureș(I saw Ieud Deal, Ieud Șes, Poienile Izei, Bârsana, Desești, Budești, Şurdeşti, Plopiș, and Rogoz);
    • and for a day trip to Săpânța’s Cimitirul Vesel and
    • Sighet (aka Sighetu Marmației)
  • Cluj (aka Cluj-Napoca) – 1 night
  • Oradea – 1 night
  • Timișoara – 1 night
    • Then Deva – en route (for the Muzeul Civilizației Dacice și Romane) to…
  • Targu Jiu – 1 night for the Brancusi ensemble
    • Then Mănăstirea Hurezi – en route to…
  • Curtea de Argeș – 1 night
    • Then Mănăstirea Cozia and
    • Sibiel – en route to…
  • Sibiu – 3 nights
    • Then Valea Villor (a fortified church) – en route to…
  • Târgu Mureș – 1 night
  • Sighișoara – 1 night
    • Then various fortified churches, including Biertan (which was closed, so from the outside only), Dârjiu, Saschiz, and Viscri, en route to…
  • Brașov – 2 nights
    • With a side trip to the fortified church in Prejmer and
    • Then Castelul Peleș – en route to…
  • Bucureşti – 4 nights
Here’s a photo of one of my favorite places in Romania, Sibiu:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e21154e96.jpeg

KarenWoo Aug 11th, 2024 10:24 AM

kja, I am very happy to see this! Romania has been on our radar ever since our youngest daughter and her husband spent their honeymoon there. I know; it's not a traditional honeymoon destination!:) We were planning on going in 3 or 4 years but just yesterday my husband suggested that we go in September 2025. We might combine Romania with a trip to Hungary. Gorgeous photo of Sibiu! Looking forward to more. This will be very helpful in our planning.

ekscrunchy Aug 11th, 2024 12:04 PM

Always exciting to read reports about the less traveled places.......I've signed one to follow!!!
If you don't mind, could you add a bit about what you ate?

Have you read the ongoing current aport about 'Albania?

Everytime I consider, for a minute, some of these less travels European destinations, my mind sends me back to Italy and Spain.

I've been but once in the Balkans hitchhiking down the Adriatic Coast to Dubrovnik, spending some time on Hvar, and then busing to Belgrade to get on the OLD Orient
Express in a low class where our companions were the gastarbeiters traveling home from Germany to Turkey....

And now you are in today's Balkans,,,please continue and give us all photos and musings that you can manage....thank you!

Travel_Nerd Aug 11th, 2024 12:15 PM

Looking forward to reading more!

Though, I admit I am a tad worried that reading this is going to shift my focus away from what I am already planning for 2026, 2027...?! Romania has been on my radar for a while.

shelemm Aug 11th, 2024 01:15 PM

Finally! Your TRs are always a delight. You got to places that were on my radar but I did not have the time to visit. Looking forward to it.

We walked down that street in your photo for dinner. At night, that's where everyone was.

danon Aug 11th, 2024 01:21 PM


Originally Posted by ekscrunchy (Post 17588751)
Always exciting to read reports about the less traveled places.......I've signed one to follow!!!
If you don't mind, could you add a bit about what you ate?

Have you read the ongoing current aport about 'Albania?

Everytime I consider, for a minute, some of these less travels European destinations, my mind sends me back to Italy and Spain.

I've been but once in the Balkans hitchhiking down the Adriatic Coast to Dubrovnik, spending some time on Hvar, and then busing to Belgrade to get on the OLD Orient
Express in a low class where our companions were the gastarbeiters traveling home from Germany to Turkey....

And now you are in today's Balkans,,,please continue and give us all photos and musings that you can manage....thank you!

exs,
Years ago I have seen some parts of former Yugoslavia . I visited and loved Prague, Moscow and St. Petersburg.
. Although I enjoy reading trip reports from the Balkans and Eastern Europe , when contemplating the next trip, I inevitable
end up in Spain or a big European city .Again.
The OP’s reports are always very informative and a pleasure to read.

shelemm Aug 11th, 2024 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by danon (Post 17588763)
exs,
when contemplating the next trip, I inevitable
end up in Spain or a big European city

You can have your cake and your cupcake too! In today's world of travel there's nothing that precludes you from combining Western and Eastern Europe in one trip. It can be so simple and certainly affordable. it's really all so close.

rialtogrl Aug 12th, 2024 01:32 AM

I'm happy to see you are back to writing your wonderful reports kja!

I loved Sibiu too. Probably my favorite place in Romania but I did not get to all the places you did. Looking forward to more.

memejs Aug 12th, 2024 06:35 AM

I'm so glad you're writing this report! Romania has been on my radar, but I've wondered what it would be like to navigate as a solo female traveler. I would love to hear your comments on that aspect. How would you compare solo travel in Romania to the other places you've been?

kja Aug 12th, 2024 08:28 AM

It’s nice to find some many comments on this TR!

@ KarenWoo: I think your daughter and her husband chose well! And if you decide to go to Romania, I don't think you'll be disappointed. I'll be glad if this report helps you plan.

@ ekscrunchy: I ate some wonderful meals in Romania! I remember a stunning wild mushroom dish in Gura Humorului, and from a breakfast buffet in Cluj, a wonderful bread stuffed with eggs and ham and I think some onion and maybe paprika – delicious! About half my meals included traditional Romanian or regional specialties; the other half were generally Continental, prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Unfortuantely, I don't have your palate and didn't take notes that would allow me to provide detail. Sorry about that!

@ Travel_Nerd: I didn't mean to throw a wrench in your plans! But you could, I think, do worse than contemplate a trip to this remarkable country.

@ shelemm: Thank you for the kind words about my TRs! That street in Sibiu was vibrant, wasn't it? Especially in the evening, but IME, at any time of day.

@ danon: Even if you end up traveling only and always to Spain or a big European city from now on, I hope you enjoy this report. Prague, Moscow, St. Petersburg ... such wonderfully distinct places! I loved them, too.

@ rialtogrl: Many thanks, though I hope I don’t disappoint by keeping this report quite brief. I thought Sibiu a delight – so chill, with gorgeous plazas and some wonderful museums and delightful pastel buildings.…

@ memejs: I didn’t have any trouble visiting Romania as a solo female traveler. I should note that I rented a car for this trip, and so can’t speak to how easy or difficult public transportation would be. English was widely spoken, though the little bit of Romanian I had learned before the trip was greatly appreciated. I found it no more difficult than any other trip I’ve taken and certainly easier than Paris in the days when Parisians refused to speak Engligh. ;)

kja Aug 12th, 2024 08:33 AM

I found it delightful to see a part of the world that hasn’t been overtaken with tourism! I ran into increasing numbers of tour groups and other independent travelers toward the end of my trip, particularly in Sighișoara, Peleș Castle, and Bucharest, but was otherwise often the sole person visiting something. It felt so unspoiled! That said, the trip wasn’t without some less desirable elements:

What I liked least about my experiences in Romania:
  • The inability to see everything I wanted to see in a finite amount of time – a common problem for me! It was compounded on this trip by a few (but only a few!) unexpected closures (e.g., Iași’s Muzeul de Arta and Biertan’s fortified church were closed when I tried to visit them).
  • The difficulty of finding parking in Brașov. Yikes, that was a pain!
  • Evidence of the damage Ceaușescu caused, from systematic torture of intellectual and religious leaders (documented in Sighet’s Prison Museum) to the leveling of huge sections of Bucharest.

Here’s a photo of a photo in the Bucureşti Muzeul Municipiului showing the movement of a beloved church – St. John the New (Biserica Sfântul Ioan cel Nou) -- to make room for Ceaușescu’s re-design of Bucharest. Many other churches and monasteries were destroyed, despite the protests of the Romanian people. It’s not a great picture, but then, this section is about the things I liked least, so maybe that’s fitting.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a6cedaac.jpeg

kja Aug 13th, 2024 09:34 AM

I guess my list of the things I liked least about traveling in Romania left everyone speechless! I hope the same is not true about the things I liked best.:worry:

The things I liked best about Romania.

I’ll start with some of Romania’s magnificent UNESCO World Heritage sites:
  • The painted monasteries of Bucovina – utterly awesome, not only for their beautiful and unusual design, but also for the fact that their exterior frescoes, protected by sweeping eaves, have survived the weather through centuries – literally, about 5 centuries! (The interiors are also glorious, with Byzantine images covering every inch.) This photo shows the one in Moldovita, Mănăstirea Moldovița.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe0ffbc19.jpeg
  • The wooden churches of Maramureș – amazing! The craftsmanship of these typically small churches, with their tall, tall spires, was superb. The interiors are impressive, too, typically decorated in rustic / naďve Byzantine-influenced styles. Most have flower-filled cemeteries and beautifully carved wooden gates. Here’s the church in Poienile Izei.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9e2a72d6.jpeg
  • The Brâncovenesc monasteries of Horezu and Cozia (only the former is a WHS) – stunning elegance, magnificent interior decoration, and gorgeous rural settings. Here’s the main church of the Mănăstirea Horezi, which is still a working nunnery.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff1eef563.jpeg


More to come….

shelemm Aug 13th, 2024 10:19 AM

I am so glad you are sharing your thoughts and photos with everyone. Magnificent! These places deserve more attention.


Travel_Nerd Aug 13th, 2024 12:04 PM

Yup. Romania is a shiny, shiny squirrel that is attacking my adhd. Tbf, so is Sicily.

Adelaidean Aug 13th, 2024 01:02 PM

Still following, kja, just got horribly sidetracked reading about the devastating storms in Switzerland.

I’m enjoying your photos and narrative, such an interesting and beautiful country.

KarenWoo Aug 13th, 2024 01:11 PM

I am still following with fascination! I actually like the photo of the church being moved. Obviously, I sympathize with the Romanian people, but I like the photo because it is so interesting and documents history. Do you know approximately what year the move took place?

And the painted monasteries and wooden churches are amazing! I love that they are in rural settings. We were originally thinking of going to England and Ireland in September 2025 but we are now seriously thinking of putting that trip on the backburner, and moving Romania to the forefront. Your TR and shelemm's TR have us sold!

Did you fly in and out of Bucharest?

I would love to see photos of your accommodations if you have them.

geetika Aug 13th, 2024 06:44 PM

Interesting to read about a part of the world not many people visit. I hadn’t really thought of going there myself, but your TR is intriguing, thanks!


kja Aug 13th, 2024 08:16 PM

Thanks to all of you who have responded!

@ shelemm: I think it would be great if some of these wonderful places get a bit more attention and a few more tourists’ dollars! I trust we won’t turn Romania into the next Cinque Terre.;)

@ Travel_Nerd: “… a shiny, shiny squirrel”—now THAT made me laugh! Sicily and Romania are both delightful, IME, and incredibly different from each other. You’ll have some tough decisions ahead!

@ Adelaidean: I’m delighted to see your name on this thread! The news out of Switzerland was truly tragic. I can see why you were sidetracked.

@ geetika: So nice to see that you’re taking the opportunity to learn a bit about Romania! I’m glad you’re finding my TR intriguing.

@ KarenWoo: So many wonderful questions! Please see my next post .:pray:

kja Aug 13th, 2024 09:48 PM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17589371)
I actually like the photo of the church being moved. Obviously, I sympathize with the Romanian people, but I like the photo because it is so interesting and documents history. Do you know approximately what year the move took place?

As understand it, the church in that photo, St. John the New, was moved in 1986. It was shifted 25 meters on rails constructed for the purpose, twisted 90 degrees, and is now crammed between two rather ugly (to my eye) and much taller Soviet-style structures. It “lost” its cemetery – but it survived! There were a few other churches that were moved at/ about that same time – massive undertakings, but nothing in comparison cost of Ceaușescu’s broader efforts to remake Bucharest. I couldn’t help but notice rooms in various museums both in and outside of Bucharest that were devoted to one or another monastery that had been destroyed in that effort, each showing whatever had been salvaged – these things were so precious to Romanians! And of course, huge sections of residential housing and neighborhood businesses were also destroyed as part of this effort.



Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17589371)
Did you fly in and out of Bucharest?


I flew into Iași and out of Bucharest, routed through Vienna in each direction.


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17589371)
I would love to see photos of your accommodations if you have them.

Accommodations… With rare exception, I have no photos to share – sorry! I can, however, name the places I stayed. I booked most of them through booking.com and chose them based primarily on location (for my purposes), cost, and -- for places outside of Iasi and Bucharest -- the availability of parking. With the exceptions noted below, they were basically all what I’d call “standard” hotel accommodations – clean, comfortable, helpful staff, very good breakfast.


Iași – Unirea Hotel & Spa

Gura Humorului – Hotel Buchenland

Mara – Pastravaria Alex – very rustic rooms; delightful setting; fresh trout – see picture below

Cluj -- Hotel Capitolina City Chic – this hotel is the one that offered the wonderful stuffed bread mentioned above (post # 10) as part of its breakfast buffet

Oradea – Astoria Grand Hotel

Timișoara – Atlas Hotel

Targu Jiu – Pensiunea Antique – desk was not 24/7, IIRC, and the woman who staffed the desk when I arrived seemed a bit brusque. BUT I got there a bit late, thoroughly stressed after a long unexpected detour, and although her English was FAR better than my Romanian, our initial communication was not ideal. I take responsibility! My other interactions with staff were very pleasant.

Curtea de Argeș – Hotel Subcarpati

Sibiu – The Rabbit Hole – decidedly quirky, but superb location and excellent staff. Free parking nearby, with staff help for finding it.

Târgu Mureș – Plaza Hotel

Sighișoara – Hotel Central Park Sighisoara – old world elegance

Brașov – Safrano Palace – oddly shaped room because the hotel was built as a caravanserai. I have a LONG saga about this hotel, which I'll defer until finalizing my list of hotels, just below.

Bucureşti – Europa Royale Bucharest Hotel



Brașov – Safrano Palace: This hotel does not have its own parking, but I had been assured that there was parking nearby. The hotel had said that I could stop in front to leave off my suitcase, but when I tried to do that, a police officer (or other uniformed person) waved me on, perhaps because it was a busy street at rush hour. So I used google to find the recommended parking lot. I ended at the bar-controlled private lot for staff of a nearby hospital, and after circling, confirmed that there was no way for me to use that lot. Sigh.

I drove around and around on very busy, often one-way streets, but I FINALLY found a parking space. YAY! And bonus – it was free! … until 8 a.m. the next morning. Grrrr. AND it was about a mile from the hotel. Knowing that the hotel had assured me that there was a parking lot just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, I left my luggage in the car and walked to the hotel.

The woman there assured me that of course, I could stop in front with my suitcase – I should just ignore any officials who said otherwise. Hmmm. And then I showed her my GPS map, and she said, well you can’t park THERE. (Duh.) Thankfully, she entered the correct parking lot into the system, and soon I was on my way again. I walked back to the car, thankful that I had noticed enough landmarks to find it again. I drove through Brasov’s maze to the hotel, where I left my suitcase, without difficulty this time,

And then I tackled the many one-way streets and … OMG, there’s the parking lot! Yay and halleluiah! Except that it was full. I waited and waited and waited and FINALLY, someone pulled out – and another car got there before I could. More waiting. I did eventually get a space … and the news that I either had to pay or leave by 8 a.m. And as I understood it (I could be wrong), that meant that I could not pay then, I had to be there in the morning. ARGGH!!!

I was NOT a happy camper. It was about a 10” walk to the hotel, and trust me, I was not my preferred self when I finally checked in – more than 2.5 hours after I first drove by that hotel. If the woman at the desk at that time remembers anything about me, I suspect I would not like the image she carries, but she was very kind.

For unexpected personal reasons, I was up after midnight that night and decided to try to pay fpr the parking. To my surprise that woman was still at the desk, and when she heard my plan, she offered to pay for my parking before 8 a.m. the next day. (I gave her the money.).

That was above and beyond! As I said in post # 11, finding parking in Brasov was among the things I liked least about my time in Brasov – and now you know why! But as you’ll see, the people I met were among my best memories, and the kindness and helpfulness of this woman, despite my frustration (and worse), count among those best memories.





kja Aug 13th, 2024 09:51 PM

Oops -- I forgot to attach this photo of Pastravaria Alex in Mara:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6901b1bc1.jpeg

shelemm Aug 14th, 2024 07:05 AM

There are quite a few hotels in Brasov on that main drag you were on. I was in a different one, but also without its own parking. There are no public parking lots, just three streets where anyone can park. All other street parking is limited to residents only.

I also went first to the street with the hospital (obgyn clinic I think), but the street parking all had signs saying 'reserved for clinic employees'. The problem for me is that this street then led up a mountain or into a very tight neighborhood where it was difficult to turn around. But the next street parking area did have some availability, by chance. After we moved the car to have dinner up the mountain, upon our return we had to wait for someone to pull out

You can pay for parking the next morning remotely ("there's an app for that") using TPark. Good in 55 Romanian cities. If people want to get an idea about travel costs, think about this: it's about $2.50 to park for the whole day. Try that in a major American city.

In this part of the world (Greece, Bulgaria, and Romania) few city hotels truly have their own parking. Some claim to have parking, but that's on-street parking they hope non-guests won't use, and that's limited to five or so cars.

kja Aug 14th, 2024 09:23 AM

@ shelemm: Parking in Brasov was a bear! But there is public parking lot -- or at least there was, a bit north of the hotel, to the west of the roundabout. And yes, there is an app -- which I got, but was unable to use. I don't remember why.


What I liked best – continued



I’ve already mentioned some architectural gems that I felt fortunate to see. They were not, by any means, the only awesome examples of Romanian architecture that I enjoyed!



Iași’s Monastery of the Three Hierarchs is covered in almost lace-like carved stone – utterly astonishing, IMO!


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5064a0e7.jpeg




A great fan of Secessionist architecture, I was delighted to immerse myself in that style of building, particularly in parts of Oradea, Târgu Mureș, and Timișoara. Glorious! Here’s Oradea’s Palatul Vulturul Negru.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88e58f1de.jpeg




Of course, the Secessionist style often included stunning interior design, too. Here’s a picture of the interior of the Palatul Cultural in Târgu Mureș:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a5b0d199.jpeg




More to come….

shelemm Aug 14th, 2024 11:57 AM

I had Ordea on my list of places I wanted to get to as well as the Cultural Palace in Târgu Mureș. Lots of stunning architecture I missed.

Iași’ is a new one on me, though. Looks impressive.


KarenWoo Aug 14th, 2024 12:03 PM

All the architecture is beautiful, especially Lasi's Monastery!

zebec Aug 14th, 2024 02:16 PM

Kja, whew. What a great TR, with interesting info and photos just bursting with color.
We need more like this one, going to less popular places.
I am done. the emerging nation

danon Aug 14th, 2024 03:29 PM


Originally Posted by zebec (Post 17589702)
Kja, whew. What a great TR, with interesting info and photos just bursting with color.
We need more like this one, going to less popular places.
I am done. the emerging nation

The “emerging nations “ is a destination some of us will probably not reach.. Even if one travels to the capitals, visiting small towns and villages by public transit could prove to be challenging..
The OP has a unique approach to travel and her trip reports are invaluable to many here.

I must say, I envy those who are willing and able to drive in foreign lands.

kja Aug 14th, 2024 10:25 PM

@ shelemm: Sounds like you’re going to have to plan a return to Romania! Perhaps to include Iași, a small, laid-back city with some delightful sights.

@ KarenWoo: Isn’t the Mănăstirea Trei Ierarhi – the monastery in Iași that I showed above -- stunning? A perfect little bijou.

@ zebec: Thank you for your kind words! I found a surprisingly full palette of colors in Romania, from pastels to jewel tones, man-made and natural. I hope you are not done following along!

@ danon:

I so appreciate your compliments! I’m not sure if my approach to travel is unique, but it is an approach tailored to my own interests and preferences. And because it is so firmly rooted in my personal travel objectives, it pleases me greatly to think that my words might be of value to others. Thank you!

As for driving: I never drive abroad without thinking of my father, who loved to drive and who taught me to do so. I think he’d be proud of the ways I’ve used the freedom he afforded me! And oh, he would have found the idea of a GPS absolutely wondrous! That said, I think there are many advantages to using public transportation, including the ability to see, and sometimes interact with, people from the area. In many countries, public transportation systems are excellent and widely used by “locals.” Japan and Switzerland are obvious examples, but there are others.

More to come....

shelemm Aug 15th, 2024 06:43 AM


Originally Posted by danon (Post 17589715)
The “emerging nations “ is a destination some of us will probably not reach.. Even if one travels to the capitals, visiting small towns and villages by public transit could prove to be challenging..
The OP has a unique approach to travel and her trip reports are invaluable to many here.

I must say, I envy those who are willing and able to drive in foreign lands.

I am sure you already travel to many lovely destinations and you have no need to change your trajectory. But if you are interested in getting off the beaten path, I am sure there are folks on this forum who could answer specific questions about how to do that without self-driving. A lot of folks do this. IIUC, the OP has often traveled without self-driving.

However, if you are able to self-drive and do it in the US, then maybe it's not as daunting a prospect as it might appear.

danon Aug 15th, 2024 07:41 AM


Originally Posted by shelemm (Post 17589847)
I am sure you already travel to many lovely destinations and you have no need to change your trajectory. But if you are interested in getting off the beaten path, I am sure there are folks on this forum who could answer specific questions about how to do that without self-driving. A lot of folks do this. IIUC, the OP has often traveled without self-driving.

However, if you are able to self-drive and do it in the US, then maybe it's not as daunting a prospect as it might appear.

As OP said, many countries have good public transit. My favourite destination- Spain - is exemplary.
I remember how enjoyable ( and convenient) it was when we drove through Switzerland, France ,
Italy.,..etc
Or , how little it bothered me to spend hours on local buses in former Yugoslavia.
I envy those who can do it.






kja Aug 15th, 2024 08:55 AM

What I liked best -- continued

As mentioned upthread (post # 19), I encountered some wonderful people during my time in Romania. And that brings me to some of the things I most treasured about “everyday” life (as I experienced it) in Romania:

The people! I can’t overstate the incredible kindness of any number of Romanians with whom I interacted – so many welcoming and helpful and generous people! (As an aside about people: I also appreciated reminders of Stu Tower, who some of you may remember as a delightfully helpful Fodorite and/or as the author of The Wayfarers.) This picture (with faces blurred) shows my first encounter with some welcoming people by the monastery at Pătrăuți.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2e29d942e.jpeg



Delicious foods (as mentioned upthread in post # 10) and some lovely Romanian wines. Here’s my dinner at the trout farm in Mara shown in post # 20:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f28457a46.jpeg



The vibrancy of Romania’s café culture and its public squares. Here’s a picture of Timișoara’s Piața Unirii:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed23a2107.jpeg



The freshness of the air – and not just in the countryside! I remember a moment in the chaos of traffic in Bucharest when I was aware of the scent of roses. Roses? Nearly a half block later, there they were! In most cities, I can’t smell a rose unless I put my nose right next to it. (As I understand it, Bucharest has a surprisingly large proportion of EVs.)


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1dd2eb5d6.jpeg



More to come….

KarenWoo Aug 15th, 2024 03:30 PM

Yes, I do remember Stu Tower. He was a very helpful Fodorite and very knowledgeable. I don't think I knew he was an author. Or perhaps I thought he wrote academic books. Hopefully, I can get a copy of The Wayfarers.

The public square in Timisoara is just gorgeous!!!

I bet that trout dish was delicious!

And the people in the wagon is so evocative of what I think of Romania. Our daughter described similar scenes.

Did you use Rough Guides to plan your trip?

Travel_Nerd Aug 15th, 2024 05:11 PM

I had a chance to do a day trip to Timisoara from Belgrade 5 years ago and I was overruled. Turned out to be a good thing in the end, actually. But man, that photo is stunning!

How did you find the language barrier, kja?

Adelaidean Aug 15th, 2024 11:31 PM

I’ve really got to stop reading trip reports….sigh….
….I want to return to places, I want to explore places on my very long ‘yet to be visited’ list, and I want to see these interesting less visited places…

kja Aug 15th, 2024 11:41 PM

@ KarenWoo: Many thanks for your continued expressions of interest in this TR! I hope you are finding value in my answers to your questions.

I thought Timișoara’s Piața Unirii gorgeous – and its other three sides were equally enchanting, IMO. Moreover, Timișoara has another major plaza – Piața Victoriei – and some smaller ones, too, and all of them were vibrant. As were the public squares and pedestrian areas in Iasi and Oradea and Sibiu and Cluj and Brasov and Bucharest and….

The trout WAS delicious – so fresh!!!

IME, horse-drawn carts were not unusual in northern Romania, and more generally, in rural areas.

As is my wont, I used about a half dozen guidebooks to plan my trip – in this case, Insight Guides, Lonely Planet, National Geographic, the Rough Guide, and D. B. Smith’s guide. And as is almost always my experience, I found some helpful and non-redundant information in each, but the Rough Guide was, by far, the most useful for my purposes, largely because it was the most comprehensive.

Stu Tower was a mensch epitomized. We were lucky to know him. If you can find The Wayfarers (I see options on amazon), I think you might enjoy it. I did!



@ Travel_Nerd:

I’m glad you liked that photo of Timișoara and hope you get there one day! As I just noted, that delightful little city has quite a few wonderfully vibrant squares.

Most of the people with whom I interacted spoke English quite well -- certainly much better than the little bit of Romanian I learned before going! (As is my habit, I used Pimsleur’s before going to learn basic civilities, directions, how to order wine / coffee / beer -- and how get to the WC, which can be a useful question after ordering wine, coffee, or beer. :p )

Here’s a story about one of the few times when I worked with someone who did NOT speak English: At many of the wooden churches I visited in Maramures and a few of the fortified churches of Transylvania, I found a sign on the door saying who to call if you want to enter – a sign in English as well as other languages. If you call during the posted hours (I never tried calling outside those hours), someone answers immediately IME and shows up within 15 minutes or so to let you in. In just one case -- Valea Viilor, IIRC – the person did not speak English. She smiled, whipped out her phone, selected an app, and was soon engaging me in conversation in which we each spoke our native tongues, with the translation appearing on the screen. Cool! As I said, the Romanian people with whom I worked were very welcoming and accommodating!



Because both of you commented on Timișoara’s Piața Unirii, here’s a shot of another vibrant city plaza: Brașov’s Piața Sfatului.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c05ac50d0.jpeg


More to come….

kja Aug 15th, 2024 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by Adelaidean (Post 17590053)
I’ve really got to stop reading trip reports….sigh….
….I want to return to places, I want to explore places on my very long ‘yet to be visited’ list, and I want to see these interesting less visited places…

We were posting at the same time!

I believe the operative description of your dilemma might be: "The world is full of insurmountable opportunities."

It truly is difficult to decide how to use one's travel time, isn't it? But OMG, aren't we fortunate to travel!?!?! I agonize over every choice and then celebrate every experience. My wish, which I think will be granted, is that I never run out of places to visit, even if the choices remain difficult.

(P.S. I'm glad you're still reading.)

Wishing you many, many more fulfilling travels!

kja Aug 16th, 2024 11:18 AM

What I liked best -- continued

Romanian craftsmanship

I already mentioned (post # 12) the amazing carpentry found in Maramures; I was very impressed with other crafts and artifacts and with the ways in which Romanians honor their traditions.


I was fortunate to see many traces of Romania’s long history of superior craftsmanship, including pottery from the ancient Cucuteni culture (circa 5500 to 2750 BC) as well as much later Dacian and Roman artifacts. Here’s a photo showing Cucuteni pottery:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7e260866.jpeg



Romanians have found many ways to preserve and honor their cultural traditions, including ethnography museums and outdoor museums and even – in some areas and on some occasions – continued use of traditional attire. (I saw people in traditional clothes going about their business in Sibiu, Sibiel, and Biertan and traditionally attired Roma in Sibiu and SIghosoara. Not the heavily embroidered sheepskin-lined stuff, but still, clearly traditional rather than western.) This example of an exhibition of traditional dress is from the ethnology museum in Cluj:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53b7b4443.jpeg


And here’s a photo of different windmills preserved in Muzeul ASTRA, a lovely outdoor museum near Sibiu.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06f583ed2.jpeg




More to come….

KarenWoo Aug 17th, 2024 06:38 AM

I love ethnography museums! We visited one in Split, and it was so interesting, and included folk costumes, too.

Love the outdoor museum, too. The windmills are so interesting, and the setting is so pretty and bucolic.

kja Aug 17th, 2024 10:19 AM

@ KarenWoo, my fellow lover of ethnography museums: The ASTRA Museum is in a lovely setting! There are forested areas and fields and a pond, some parts are hilly and some flat, there are distant views of snowcapped Carpathians and a working farm, etc. And a great gift shop! There's a similar outdoor museum in Bucharest.

- - - - - - - -

What I liked best -- continued

Honoring the past, history and people

As noted above, Romania has many ethnography museums which, along with various history museums, display artifacts associated with its history. In addition, Romania has honored the past by preserved a variety of structures of historic significance. Some persist because they now serve different purposes. For example, some caravansaries in Brasov are now hotels and one in Bucharest is a restaurant (Hanu' lui Manuc).

Some other examples:

A number of Transylvanian villages with fortified churches have been preserved and retain their medieval features; they are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Here’s a glimpse of the one in Prejmer:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...302b3881f.jpeg




The medieval core of Sighisoara was packed with tourists when I was there, but its UNESCO World Heritage Status ensures that it retains its historic character.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f065407be.jpeg




An infamous prison in Sighet is now a profoundly moving museum memorializing those who were tortured under communism. The museum also includes a cemetery just outside of Sighet – the Paupers’ Cemetery. I found it disconcerting that these monuments to peace are only a disconcertingly few kilometers to the border with Ukraine. Here’s a photo of the Paupers’ Cemetery.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f23296b4c.jpeg



More generally, I was impressed by the obvious signs of attention to cemeteries. I visited quite a few of them (many churches and monasteries have one) and all held freshly cut flowers or blooming plants. (You can see a bit of one in the photo of Poienile Izei in post # 12.) And then there’s the impressively individualized cemetery in Săpânța, the Cimitirul Vesel shown here:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cce9f9428.jpeg


More to come….



Travel_Nerd Aug 17th, 2024 11:09 AM

Wow! Those gravestones are so ornate!

KarenWoo Aug 17th, 2024 02:07 PM

Love those gravestones! I love blue! They are so eye catching and vibrant. And very different from stone and marble gravestones.


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