Museo Archivescovado (=archepiscopal in Italian). Yes, smalti, that's the one I went to. It's small but had some nice objects. Including a very fine throne with carved ivory panels, the "throne of Maximian."

Speaking of books--A good and accessible book on Byzantine art is published by Oxford Univ Press, available on Amazon, and is called--guess what--Byzantine Art, by Robin Cormack. It's worth reading for history buffs.

That Robin Cormack book looks interesting on Amazon, DejaVu!

It's good, smalti. I like all the books in that particular Oxford series because they really contextualize the art. In the case of the Byzantine book, contextualize it with contemporary history, theology, etc. It's not just about style.