Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report Quick trip for Cartier and Jane Austen

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Janisj, on your next visit to the V&A if you are looking for a place for lunch, have a look at the Lavery, very nearby. Here is Grace Dent´s review:
https://www.theguardian.com/food/202...taurant-review

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tulips (Post 17665326)

Yes - I did see that review back in April (I read way too many London papers ;) ) and ticked it for a future visit. This time the Members Room was just so convenient,

Tues and Wed June 17-18: Rubbing shoulders with all the toffs headed to Ascot (top hats, fancy dresses and all), train to Winchester, great pub with rooms, Wolvesey Castle, Winchester Cathedral, 8 College Street and NE coach to LHR.

I booked a noon-ish train to Winchester arriving before 1:30. I had considered taking a morning walk across the river but in th eend I decided on a leisurely morning finishing packing and tidying up the kitchen and walked over to Waterloo around 11:00 to find something to eat. Opted for Benugo up on the balcony overlooking the whole concourse. Had a good brie, caramelized onion, spinach and chutney sandwich and tea + a glass of white wine. And spent about an hour people watching everyone headed out to Ascot. Cutaway coats, top hats, designer dresses and smashing hats - and some of the highest heels I've seen outside of a drag show >;;)

Settled in on the train and as we approached Winchester I put away my phone and readied to get off . . . and didn't make it. Got to the door in what I thought was plenty of time but two ladies were wrestling largish bags on to the carriage and by the time I got past them the doors were strating to close. Pressed the door button but the door just continued closing. I had no idea what the next stop was but figured it wouldn't be far. Turned out to be Eastleigh about 10 minutes farther down the line. Got off there and caught the next train back to Winchester. The whole 'excursion' only added about 30 minutes to my travel day.

Got a taxi from the station to The Wykeham Arms -- a Fuller's pub with rooms. What a great choice. I really only booked it because it is literally a 1 minute walk around the corner from 8 College Street. But I was fairly confident because I stayed at the Sanctuary House (another Fuller's pub with rooms) in St James's in summer '22 and it was fine. The Wykeham Arms was even better - there are hundreds of Fuller's in England and this one won the award for being the "Best Fullers" in 2024. Plus lots of other plaques and trophies scattered around for 'Best pub' 'Best hospitality in Hampshire' ec etc. While I was checking in they were watching this year's Fuller's announcement and while they were short listed in the top three, disappointment all around when they came 2nd.

Lovely pub, traditional pub decor on steroids, really great staff, and wonderful food - had both dinner and a full breakfast the next morning. The only slight caveat was the steep narrow stairs to my room but they carried my bag up so no worries. (after I checked out the next day and went out to explore the city some more they retrieved my bag and held it til my late afternoon NE coach). It was a very warm day but my room (in a house across the very narrow cobbled street) had cross ventilation with two windows plus a Dyson fan so the room was comfortable.

I unpacked and headed out - first up the road to the ruins of Wolvesey Castle (the Old Bishop's Palace) next door to the grand 'new' 17th century Wolvesey Palace. Only about 1/3 of the castle remains - I found this youtube video of the castle

Hope it posts OK. Winchester College playing fields are next to the Castle/Palace and I watched a cricket match for about half an hour.

Then I walked over to the Cathedral -- I'd only have about 30 mins inside but the ticket is good for the next day (for the whole year actually but I'll only be here tomorrow :) ) This afternoon I just walked through casually since I knew I'd have a lot more time tomorrow. Walked back to the Wykeham Arms -- the entire loop walk Pub > Castle > Cathedral > Pub was barely 3/4 mile. Reserved a table for dinner -- they were almost fully booked and 6:30PM was the only time available. Then I sat in the 'pub side' and had a cider and chatted with the barkeep for close to an hour. Dinner was very good -- had a cold soup starter and their 'famous' lamb pie which was top notch . . . and STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING!! :) My only STP of the trip. Went out for another walk as it was starting to cool down then up to the room for telly and good night's sleep.

Next Morning breakfast was served in the dining room - a combo of buffet (juices, cold cereals, yoghurt, pastries, etc) and full cooked options. I had poached eggs, bacon, toast, black pudding, and grilled tomato. Very well cooked/presented. Then I checked out and arranged for them to bring my bag down.

Walked to the Porter's Lodge just down the road from 8 College street to meet up with my group of 9. after a short orientation talk we walked back to the house and it was absolutely lovely. The house is not entirely unchanged but the rooms where Jane and Cassandra lived are pretty much the same and the window from where the crushed Cassandra watched the funeral procession to the Cathedral (women didn't traditionally attend funerals) is unchanged. Quoted on one wall above a regency sofa: "I live chiefly on the sofa, but am allowed to walk from one room to another." So sad.

On a wall next to the window is written: "I watched the little mournful procession the length of the street & when it turned from my sight ... I had lost her for ever."

Spent about an hour in the house and then walked back to the Cathedral and spent more than 2 hours there including a tea break in the nice cafe. There are several really fascinating exhibitions: One covers the history development of the cathedral from its Anglo-Saxon beginnings to the 21st century. Most fascinating to me though were displays about the Mortuary Chests Project ('bone chests'). These large ornately decorated chests are located very high on ledges above the presbytery. They contain among others the bones of eight kings, and three bishops. Using modern forensics including DNA/carbon dating/etc they were able to reassembled almost 1500 human bones/23 partial skeletons. Including Emma of Normandy who was the daughter of Richard 1, the wife of two kings - Ethelred and Cnut, and the mother of Edward the Confessor. I've visited scores of cathedrals and Abbey's in the UK and had never heard of Mortuary Chests.

I considered trudging up the hill to the Great Hall / Round Table. But instead I walked back to the Wykeham Arms and had a Pimms -- definitely Pimms weather! and waited for my cab to the National Express bus stop. The bus was supposed to come at 4:05 but it was over 90 minutes late -- I didn't care really because my flight wasn't til the next morning. But one couple had a flight out of terminal 2 that evening -- I'm not sure they made it. Apparently there was a huge queue at some roundabout getting out of either Portsmouth or Southampton and it had taken the driver 45 minutes to go about 3 miles.

Comfortable ride, I got off at Terminal 4 and walked o the Holiday Inn Express and checked in. The HIE is co-located with the higher end Crowne Plaza - I decided to go 'up market' to the Crown Plaza 'Urban Brasserie' for dinner -- Tomato bisque soup and Asparagus risotto. Had a nightcap and finished packing and crashed - awaiting my 0500 wake up call.

Quote:

Originally Posted by janisj (Post 17665349)

Yes - I did see that review back in April (I read way too many London papers ;) ) and ticked it for a future visit. This time the Members Room was just so convenient,

The V&A Schiaparelli exhibition from March 2026 then :)

Heck with it - the sizes will be what they are ;)

Some Cartier -- really don't do the pieces justice but a hint of the sorts of things in the exhibition.

First some tiaras -- There were a LOT of tiaras. There were some scattered throughout the galleries and the last room was entirely tiaras -

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b37777112.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6f6beacc9.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff2045d4aa.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97d9618675.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...283a8b8c5e.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...083c90783c.jpg

Lots of animal themed pieces. Lots of animals from stags to bears to whatever but most of all big cats

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94676c203b.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c89dfb667.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3665929a82.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef2e9ab651.jpg
This is a huge snake necklace - must weigh a ton

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...222b3b213c.jpg
Also lots of clocks and watches

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5bdd9db0de.jpg
Magnificent Jade necklace owned by Barbara Hutton

The exceptional color/translucency of these matching beads of this 1933 jadeite necklace means this is considered one of the finest jade items ever made.

Random necklaces and 'stuff'

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...549779baf3.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a0a1ace9c.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f99e2589d.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11fa3c214b.jpg
There are almost 2000 diamonds in this. That's gotta be one HEAVY necklace!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fbf32b383.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c74e58a71a.jpg
detail of the above

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96d93a7853.jpg

For some reason it wouldn't let me upload the next two?? What is missing from the photos is the unbelievable glittering of these pieces.

I will be in London the last weeks of August…I was considering visiting the Cartier exhibit…thx for the pics.

Quote:

Originally Posted by danon (Post 17666107)

I will be in London the last weeks of August…I was considering visiting the Cartier exhibit…thx for the pics.

The photos don't do them justice and the exhibition is ENORMOUS so they are probably less than 3 or 4 % of the items on display. This is the V&A's pretty detailed description of the show. https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/about...anging%20world.

Quote:

Originally Posted by janisj (Post 17666109)

Thank you ..I. will take a look

Great pictures. Wow, such jewelry! Love the cats!

Wonderful pictures. Thank you so much. I always love your trip reports.

Those tiaras!!

Oh, Jane...! Thank you for sharing those photos. It must have been so poignant to see those rooms. What a treasure she was to the world.

janisj, you are such a pro at this. every time!

My favorite, the sapphire necklace.

janisj you might like the movie Jane Austin wrecked my life it's French romance and comedy .I enjoyed not loved it though

Thurs June 19 flying home:

My flight was at 0810 so I asked for a 5AM wake up call. Woke up a few minutes before the call came in. Was 90+% packed with just my night clothes and a few toiletries and chargers to fit in. Took a quick shower and was out the door a bit before 0530. The HIE includes breakfast -- but been there done that. Its nothing to write home about and I know the AA and Cathay Pacific lounges do good (Admirals Cub) and great (Cathay Pacific) breakfasts and the Qantas lounge does a mean cappuccino so I skipped the hotel's offering. Oh - Did I mention I got upgraded for the return flight!!! Yay me :) No stinkin' premium ecoomy LOL.

The walk from the hotel into terminal 4 takes about 8 or 10 minutes - but its all covered so even in nasty weather its an OK trek. From T4 I don't fully remember if I took te Elizabeth Line or the Tube (both are free between terminals) -- I 'think it was the tube. I think this is the 3rd time I've stayed at the HIE and I've pretty much decided that it will be either the HIE T-4 or the Sofitel T-5 from here on out, even though I'm usually flying out of T-3. The HIE can be booked dirt cheap and the Sofitel is great though more expensive. The Hilton Garden Inn at T-2 thinks its the Ritz or something and charges more that the much nicer Sofitel. Having free transport between terminal make staying at T-4 or T-5 more convenient the all those hotels along the Bath Road (I've stayed in probably 7 or 8 of those over the years)

Anyway with my upgrade I got expedited security and was in the Cathay Pacific Lounge by about 6 o'clock. Had a wonderful omelet, a fresh fruit cup, a couple of small pastries and tea and a mimosa. Then I moseyed over to the Admirals Club for more tea and to ask the AAngels (yep -- that's what they are called) if I could change seats. I was so happy to see I had been upgraded to Business I somehow didn't notice I was in a middle seat. AA's business cabin is set up 1-2-1 and every seat in on the aisle so I would have survived for sure -- but I much prefer having a window. And wonder of wonders there was one window seat available. SCORE! :)

Flight to DFW was great -- but my flight home from Dallas was delayed about 2 hours. It was mayhem a the gate because there were two flights to Sacramento leaving almost the same time -- my delayed flight and the regularly scheduled one and they were originally going out of the same gate. The later flight was moved to another gate but half of those passengers didn't get the memo and were trying board the wrong plane. some angry folks and lots of yelling/complaints. The gate agents handled things pretty well and eventually everything got sorted.

My driver was monitoring my arrival time and as soon as we landed I had a text not to worry- he knew about the delay and would pick me up in about 10 minutes. Home a little late but at least it meant things had cooled down. Two of the cats greeted me and one played hard to get and didn't even acknowledge my presence untii the next morning 🐈

A couple more photos:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...044e1a7375.jpg
Afternoon tea at Ochre in the National Gallery

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...658e74c685.jpg

A couple more Cartier items:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13bf24fe5d.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec8e1bf7da.jpg

And the Glastonbury trashcan :)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fcdd27227.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by northie (Post 17666473)

janisj you might like the movie Jane Austin wrecked my life it's French romance and comedy .I enjoyed not loved it though

I didn't see your post -- will check it out.

”https://www.fodors.com/community/ima...ted/smiley.gif No stinkin' premium ecoomy LOL.”

Some of us aspire to it!

We saw the Cartier exhibit in Paris several years back and I bought a V&A membership to visit while we were in London. Not identical to Paris-many of the same pieces and a few trade outs. It’s spectacular!

i get the stinking Premium Economy…this ol’ girl needs a lie flat bed these days!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by denisea (Post 17668523)

Yes - spectacular!

The good thing about Premium Economy was it was reasonably comfortable so I know I won't melt next time. Used to fly the cheapest Economy fares possible so I've logged a lot of hours in the back of the plane. But about 10 years ago decided to spring for Business and am TOTALLY spoiled. B. Class is my preference but when fares are astronomical I won't be afraid of PE.

Your room at the Cadogan looks amazing. i've not stayed there but did have afternoon tea there a few years ago.