Please help with Paris apartment
 

I have read all past posts regarding renting a place in Paris... reputable companies, better locations, etc... Thank you to everyone who contributed. It was such an incredible resource and has helped us with our planning so far.
We made a list, inquired about availability, and have narrowed it down. My husband and I are now at a standstill because we cannot decide which apartment is best for us. So, I am asking for your help. I would appreciate your opinion on which apartment is a better choice and why.

We are going in February. We are in our mid to late 30's and this is our first trip to Paris. We plan do visit the famous sites but we are really laid back travelers. It more about the experience for us, rather than getting everything in.
The two apartments we are deciding between are from parisbestlodge.com
"Crazy view" on the Ile de la cite
parisbestlodge.com/quai.html

"Dauphine Magic" in St. Germain
parisbestlodge.com/dauphine.html

Merci beaucoup!
Christina

I think you've chosen two good apartments, both in great locations. I would choose Crazy View because I love to have something to look at out the window. It will be fun to watch the boat traffic. That apartment also has a nicer kitchen and is slightly bigger than the one on Rue Dauphine. Living on the island in the middle of the city also appeals to me.

And I could probably live with the decor of the Rue Dauphine apartment but those decals in the kitchen would drive me crazy.

Both locations are convenient and central for sightseeing and just wandering around. You'll enjoy yourself no matter what your choice.

That is a killer view from the Ile apartment, but I would choose the St. Germain option. My trips to Paris tend to be in Feb also, and I always feel like the Ile is a bit of a ghost town at night. I prefer more lights and activity at night. I know some will disagree with this...just my impression from 3 previous trips.

What about having a Boulangerie and other necessities nearby? I fantasize my husband running down to grab us a few croissants.

What about having a Boulangerie and other necessities nearby? I fantasize my husband running down to grab us a few croissants.>>

if you go to the address of each of your choices on google maps, you can put "bakery" or "supermarket" into the search function, and it will show you where they are. you can also use the street view to give you an idea of what your environs would be like.

personally, my heart says the "crazy view" my hear says the other one. how much time are you planning on staying in the apartment? and at night, what can you see?

You guys are a lot younger that we are, so the stairs might not bother you, but the third or fourth floor (4th & 5th U.S.) with no elevator would nix both of these for us. If you are mountain goats, running down for a few croissants in the morning would be a snap. It would wipe me out for the day.

We are staying in an apartment on Ile de la Cite in May, but we only have one flight of stairs to contend with. After a day of walking my legs down to nubbins, I won't have to dread the ascent to my bed.

My opinion as a "Paris Lover" is this------Can you say "The Buci"? I'd choose St. Germain for more activity right at your doorstep. We always stay on Ile St. Louis and it is very quiet at night so I have to agree with Sidny above. Some think The Buci is too touristy, and it is, but if there is anything going on in the streets at night, it will be there and also at Notre Dame and along the Seine.

Yes the view from the Ile de Cite apt. is great, but for location I'd choose St. Germain. There will be many shops & boulangeries right outside your door, and you are right by the Passage Dauphine which is covered if the Feb.weather gets to you. In the St. Germain area, the streets are narrow and buildings close together which I think would protect you better from the cold and wind----if you were going in the warmer months I would suggest the Ile de Cite property.

We also do the "bakery thing"---I make coffee while MDH runs out for a baguette and croissants in the morning. That's the extent of my cooking in Paris. We prefer apts. over hotels for the space, privacy, ability to have coffee and a frig for wine and snacks, but more so for the feeling of our own place in Paris.

It will be interesting to read your trip review when you return

Since you can't choose, I'm sure the decor and lack of elevator doesn't matter to you of either (they are only one floor difference, so I wouldn't choose on that, either), but you are just asking about the location.

I would choose the St Germain one. That other apt isn't even on Ile St Louis, it's Ile de la Cite which isn't even that residential. The particular location is actually about the oldest part of Paris FYI, there are some buildings in the immediate block or so of that apt that are the oldest buildings in Paris. There is one bakery on the island I know of, but it's not too far from that apt Nicole Lohezic, an artisinal bakery, on rue d'Arcole. Of course there are plenty of shops of all kinds around the other one in St Germain.

I would never choose an apt on that island myself, I think it will be dull at night, nothing much around that apt (I have been where it is) and you'll have to be going elsewhere -- I don't know where, either Ile St Louis or the Latin Qtr or over around hotel de VIlle, I guess. The closest metro would be either Cite or Hotel de Ville, maybe they are equal. Now that isn't too far, it could be about the same distance from the other apt. to a metro (eg, Odeon), but going across that bridge in February may be no fun.

Thank you for all your responses. You make many valid points. The stairs and decor equally don't thrill us, but we can overlook both since location is most important.

"The Buci"??

I've done the google map thing with the street view. I spent an entire day playing with it... walking the streets. It's still difficult to get a sense of what is really there.

In the evenings, we plan to go back to our apartment, drink some wine, eat some cheese and bread and fall asleep. We plan to dine out only one or two evenings. That is why we're considering the view.

One other small concern I have is that the apartment on Ile de la Cite looks like it has very low ceilings. My husband is 5'11" and I don't want him spending 7 days slumped over. Any thoughts on ceiling heights in old buildings?

I guess I'd ask about the ceiling height. It's hard to tell from photos. Older buildings generally have higher ceilings than modern ones, but they get lower as you go higher in the building.

I think the view at night would be interesting with the lights on the buildings across the river and on the tour boats.

I think a Fodorite stayed in Crazy View some time in the past year. I am hoping they'll see this thread and chime in.

I agree the apartment on the Left Bank is in a livelier area, but from the island, you're a short walk to the busier areas. That's its appeal for me, but that's just my preference--we all like different things. If I was traveling alone, I might choose an apartment in a busier area.

I'd take the Dauphine for the reasons listed above. Stairs don't bother me and I don't think I'd want to stay right on Ile de la Cite. But I'd probably be going out to dinner most nights, even if it were just to someplace really casual.

I think you and your husband will have a great time regardless.

I've stayed around the corner from the rue Dauphine apartment since 1981 and there are bakeries, markets, and other food places a few steps away. There's also a Picard about a 5-minute walk away. You can google it. It's a very convenient area.

There's also a laundromat on rue de Seine between rue de Buci and rue Jacob. The area is changing though as I was there some months ago and my favorite bakery, for croissants, was gone. It was on rue de Buci and had been there since before I first started staying in that neighborhood in 1981. It was still there the two times that I was in Paris in 2009.

Across the street, from the former old bakery, is Pauls bakery. It's not the same as the Old School one, but it'll do. It's on the corner of rue de Seine and rue de Buci. There's also another place that has a bakery section that's on rue de Buci across from the flower shop area. The flower shop is at the corner of rue de Buci and rue Gregoire des Tours. And there's a bakery on rue de Seine between Blvd. St.Germain and rue de Buci. And also a really good one on rue de Seine south of Blvd. St.Germain and between rue Clement and rue St.Suplice. My all time favorite though is Poilane, in the 6th, but close to the 7th. It's at 6, rue de Cherche Midi.

It's funny about the running down and picking up a few croissant bit. When I was there some months ago, at the apartment that I rented, one of my best friends who joined me in Paris, asked if I wanted croissants for breakfast. I said that I did and he asked where to go to get them. I said to just go to the place about 1 minute away and I then explained where it was.

Well, he came back much later and said that he couldn't find it. He thought that maybe he was jet lagged and that he'd misunderstood. I didn't know that my favorite place was no longer there.

My friend came back with croissants from Pauls...by no means the same....but it was fine, as I didn't want him running around looking for croissants. He got an A/Plus for effort. Every morning, when I woke up, he had two croissants on the dining room table for me. He'd go to different places to get them. Smiles. Have a great trip. Happy Travels!

Thank you everyone for all your opinions and advice. Our tickets are bought and there is no turning back now. And I know that no matter where we stay, we'll have a great time... Because we'll be in Paris!

I know I shouldn't keep looking because I'll drive myself crazy but are there any other apartments I should look at that might be better? I prefer to stay in the same price point or lower. I already inquired about the much recommended #122 with VIP. It's booked. Any other thoughts? I trust all of you more than myself since I'm not really a seasoned traveller. Last time I was outside of the US was in 2005!

Guenmai-
I noticed Paul's during my google maps walk. Shame the old place is gone. I guess it happens everywhere. Since I love bread and sweets, I will make it a point to try your favorite, Poilane.

Have you contacted Thierry at parisbestlodge.com and asked him what he has available for your dates? You might have more options. I stayed at one of his/his friend's places (wouldn't work for you two, no view, dark, etc., but perfect for me because it was in my absolute favorite location and I needed rest) and paid the same for eight nights as I would for seven.

xpi6tiva: I had VIP#122, in 2008. I did a report on it here in this forum. It's on the rue St.Andres des Arts and next door to the movie theater and although in the 6th, it's a few steps from the 5th.

From what I remember, VIP#122 is more expensive than the two that you have posted above. The apartment that I now have I love, but it's out of your budget range as it's around $1,700 a week, payable in Euros or U.S. dollars. There might be cheaper winter rates however. I'll have to look it up. Happy Travels!

I looked it up and February is the lowest rate at $1,500 a week. February is open, except for around the second week. If interested, let me know and I'll post the info. Happy Travels!

www.parisvacationapartments.com has two studio apartments in the 6th. They are small but look very attractive and February is considered low season. I checked and one of them has availability for a couple of weeks (didn't check the other one). I rented another apartment from them a few years ago and the arrangements were easily made, the apartment lovely, and the people very nice.

I would not be thrilled to stay on Ile de la Cite. Too dominated by large institutions and not enough neighborhood feeling.

Again, thank you. I had already checked #122 and parisvacationapartments.com. They are all booked for our time frame. And $1500 is over our budget for this trip. I'm sure it's an incredible apartment, though.

I'm going to contact Thierry to see if the Dauphine apartment is still available and book it.

VIP ID 230 is near the Dauphine apt., close in price, closer to Metro (good for Februrary trip) 5th floor walk-up. The decor is less . . . pink . . . than Dauphine as well.

Ok... I haven't been able to pull the trigger. My husband is looking at "nicer" apartments... Particularly, Cecile's apartments.

Guenmai... If you read this, at this point since my husband has raised our budget, I'd be interested in knowing about your favorite place.

I'm also open to le marais.

I prefer Le Marais to St Germaine. St. Germane was full of tourist whereas some part of Le Marias has neighborhood feel to it. I rented an studio apt on Rue de Brague from RentParis.com, I thought the location was perfect and the apt while simple and smallish was perfect for the two of us. There was a washer/dryer in the bathroom which i appreciate. Nice shops and great restaurants were within walking distance. The building was inside a courtyard with a big gate in the front which is very french and elegant and homey. A doorman looked before he buzzed people in so it's safe. Not that I had felt unsafe anywhere but I love details. My apt was on the 4th or 5th floor and there was an elevator. There was no view to speak of except the window in the kitchen overlooking a side street. There was a school of some sort on the opposite side, I see young people wearing very interesting clothes hanging out with one another in front of that school, could be a fashion school judging from what they wore. The weekly rate was about 100 euro per nite. Hope this helps.

If the stairs don't thrill you, keep looking. You have to drag your bags up and down those stairs. If this is your first visit to Paris, after being out and about all day, it will likely be all you can do to drag yourselves to the front door. And, flights of stairs would discourage you from going "home" during the day for a break, to drop off items to lighten your load for the rest of the day, etc. In most of those old buildings, stairs are narrow and curved.

I'd also be wary of those tiny shower (only) bathrooms.

Can't say I agree at all with the above sentiment that St Germain is full of tourists but the Marais is not. The Marais is jam-packed with them, and the streets are often very narrow so it can be worse. Both quarters (or any) will have some areas without them or that are less crowded. In any case, I sure would not pick between one or the other based on the idea that one is more touristy than the other.

I don't actually like either one of those areas because there are so many tourists in both, but I've been traveling to Paris a long time so it isn't really a comparable situation. I think I'd prefer St Germain myself. I just really don't like the Marais very much, to be honest.

I didn't say 'St Germain is full of tourists but the Marais is not'. I said, 'some part of Le Marias has neighborhood feel to it'.

I know, but you are implying that this is different from ST Germain. Parts of St Germain also have a neighborhood feel to them, or don't you agree.

For a first trip, the neighborhood won't matter that much. It's better if food shopping, etc., is within steps rather than blocks. If you'll be out and about all day, you won't be spending that much time in your neighborhood during the day, and at night, it's nice to have plenty nearby. If you're light sleepers, street noise could be a concern, though.

My daughter and I stayed in an apartment on rue de Buci in October and loved, loved, loved it. I've stayed on rue de Seine and rue de Verneuil before, but rue de Buci topped them all for location. Anything we could ever want or need was within a 2 minute walk (although I was disappointed to discover that the fromagerie had closed since last year. The neighborhood has a lively vibe that is lots of fun. We both agreed that we don't ever want to stay anywhere else.

xpi6tiva: It's www.homeaway.com #226061. Click on the review icon and then scroll a bit and click on the green icon where it says, "Read All Reviews" and all 14 reviews will pop up. Happy Travels!

I forgot to add, as far as tourists go, you'll be there in February, not July. I've been there in November and other times of the year and it wasn't what I'd call crowded or crawling with tourists even in the heart of the 6th.

I'm from L.A. County and we have what I'd call crawling with tourists. LOL! It doesn't bother me. I just go on and do what I need to do. For years, I was also in the 6th, in the heart of the summer. That was back in the 70s/80s/ and up to 1990 though. Then, due mostly to circumstances, I started going to Paris during various other months.

During one Thanksgiving week in Paris and in the 6th, it was like a ghost town. I went to my friends' restaurant on the rue Gregoire des Tours, right off the rue Buci and the various restaurant workers were standing in the doorway trying to grab onto whatever customers that they could. I was at my friends' restaurant from 7PM-10PM and only one table was occupied and with two people. Happy Travels!

Theflock, can you share the information/website on our apt? I'm staying with my daughter in a flat by Rue de Buci in June.

xpi, I agree with others who recommend the 6th rather than the Ile de la Cite apartment. The latter area is lovely ,more like a self-contained village, but a bit too quiet for me--as Sidny wrote above, it feels at times like a ghost town, and imagine in winter i'd feel even more that way.

Guenmai-
Thank you! Unfortunately, that apartment is booked for the first half of our trip.
My husband said that he wants to look forward to coming back to the apartment at the end of the day, so... We're now back and forth between...

http://www.cecile-apartments.com/par...-apartment.php

http://www.cecile-apartments.com/par...-apartment.php

Theflock- The one on rue de buci is already booked :(
I know the one in st. germain is 5 floors up (doesn't bother us) and has a slightly lower ceiling height which will probably still be ok for my husband.

Both neighborhoods look nice and convenient. We are simply hoping for the quintessential parisian experience. Are we asking too much? ;)

Gosh, those 2 cecile apartments look gorgeous!!! I want to go now...

I know, Kraines... once my husband looked at them, I couldn't get him to consider anything else.
We've decided on the St. Germain Luxembourg apartment!!
http://www.cecile-apartments.com/par...-apartment.php

Now I get to research places to eat, markets, etc...

Merci to everyone who offered their opinion! I don't think I'd be as confident with my decision if it wasn't for all of you.

XPI--WHICH apt on Rue de Buci???Do you have a URL link for the Theflock's recommended flat?

I am staying in one on Rue de Buci in June, via Vacation in Paris. Wonder if it is the same

Congratulations on your choice!!! It's a wise decision. Like Christina, le Marais doessn't "do it" for me the way the Let bank does. Personal opinion, of course, but having stayed once in the Marais, and also in o the 5th and 7th, I'd go with the 6th, and have booked in the area for next trip.

DO spend some time in the Marais, though--try the yummy falafel at Mi Va MI (I think that is the name) or the more famous place with the big line across the lane.

BTW, in matters of both hotels and flats, I agree with your husband--it's great having a beautiful, welcoming and cozy comfortable place to come back to at the end of the day--part of the whole experience! So the challenge is finding something affordable that is also wonderful!

Oh--and your chosen place is right near Gerard Mulot's bakery. YUMMYYYY!!!

CaliNurse I was just thinking the same thing about Gerard Mulot.....best tart citron ever!!
We stayed in the Marais for the first time in October....we really enjoyed it (and were within 3 blocks of a Gerard Mulot) but both of us said, we just prefer the 6th.

xpi6tiva: Congrats on your apartment find and it's unfortunate that #226061 wasn't available and also not to your husband's liking. For me it's an apartment that I do look forward to coming back to. Its very cozy and I love relaxing in it at night and watching the great TV with all of the cable channels. I really feel very much at home in that apartment as it's what I call frou-frou free. Smiles. Have a great trip. Happy Travels!

Oh Guenmai... I didn't mean my husband didn't like the one you recommended. I didn't show it to him since it wasn't available. I meant the pink room. I should have been more clear.

We've gone a bit over our desired budget but my husband justified it because I got ridiculously cheap airfare. I would rather he up our budget than I.

Calinurse...
Here is the link for the one on rue de buci that I believe theflock was talking about.
http://www.cecile-apartments.com/par...-apartment.php

Of course we plan to visit le marais. I love falafel here at home and can't wait to try it in Paris. I believe that everything is going to taste better there.

A tart citron sounds super yummy! Would that be seasonal?