Please help with Italy questions...
 

Hi Everyone,

I posted for the first time about two months ago, asking for some input for a birthday trip to Italy. Due to the suggestions and posts on this board, I was able to plan everything from a driver pick up at the airport in Rome, to how to buy tickets to a soccer match. Our itinerary is: Rome for 3 days, Bologna for 3 days, and Pienza area for 3 days in that order. Thanks so much for all of your help! If I could impose just a little more....just a few questions:
- We will be arriving on 11/2 and staying through 11/12....should we expect cold weather? Light jackets or coats? Rain?
- Would you recommend renting a bike or vespa in Rome? Or is on foot just as easy to get around?
- In Rome, although we’re planning on checking out the major sites, we’re not really tours or museum people, we prefer to walk a lot, and explore and of course eat! (we’re both chefs). So, other than the Scavi tour, we didn’t reserve anything else, and don’t really want to, but is there anything that you can think of that we can do, or see, that’s more off the beaten path?
- We will be traveling by train from city to city.....is it best to reserve the tickets now, or is it just as easy to purchase them at the station on the day of travel? And what do you recommend....first or second class?
- We’ve rented a car for Pienza, which we will be picking up in Chiusi.....Can you recommend a good driving map for that area? Actually make that a GREAT (and easy) driving map....we’re both somewhat “map illiterate”
And of course if you can think of anything that I might not have asked about....I’m happy for any and all suggestions.
Thanks in advance for your help!

Hello MartiB,
We'll be in the same places at about the same time - per a post I just posted, question about rental car. Where in Chiusi (what company/location) are you renting the car?

Hi,
I have been in Rome that time of the year and would definitely be prepared for cold weather and maybe rain. I ended up buying a jacket there that was a favorite for years. Rome is a great walking city. I personally wouldn't be up for biking or scooter due to traffic and unfamiliar driving styles there. I loved just walking all day and discovered a restaurant called Abruzzi that was marvelous (but this was many years ago). Regarding the trains, I have not had a problem buying them there but arrive early to be sure to figure out the system. I have done first class and second class and I prefer to go second class because you are exposed to more real Italian people that way. Have a great time!

Just back from 3 weeks all over Italy. We loved Rome. St. Peter's is a must see....no lineup unless you want to get into the dome of the basilica. It looks like there are lineups from the square but we found that they were just checkpoints to check your belongings and once through the line (5-10 minutes), we walked right into St. Peter's. I would not recommend a vespna in Rome, or any other city in Italy for that matter. The drivers are crazy and are very used to the eratic way they drive. Florence is worse than Rome. I was taken out by a crazy Italian lady on a bicycle on a sidewalk in Florence...she didn't even try to use her brakes and slammed right into me! We had no problems walking all over the city. We did not take one bus or taxi. We love to walk, although it is easy to get the city bus. We stayed near Trevi Fountain and walked everywhere. I was amazed at how close together most things are. We only reserved the Vatican Museum. There was only a short line up at the Coleseum and none at the the Forum. I think that reading about the places you are planning to go to ahead of time, or bringing one of those guide books with you when you go is all you need. I do not even think we got our money's worth out of the guided tour of the Vatican museum. Do not miss the Sistene Chapel!

We drove and took trains. I would recommend a map of Italy or a detailed map of the region you will be driving in.The roads are not clearly marked, at least not by our North American standards. Getting on and off the main Autostada can be challenging.

Our travel agent booked first class train tickets before we left. Not sure what 2nd class is, but we had reserved seats and they were very comfortable. Luggage goes overhead, although one train had a section at the front of the car for luggage. No worries about safety of your bags. We had heard people saying to bring a chain and lock to lock your luggage up on the train...absoultely not necessary. You can visualize the area from your seat and I can't imaging anyone being able to lug our suitcases out to steal them anyway! I did not take the advice of countless Fodorites and traveled with a 28 inch suitcase. It was awkward and if it wasn't for my husband, I would never have been able to lift it up to load it on the train.

We just returned Oct 3....no jackets required. A light shawl or sweater for evening is all that we needed. It is still hot in Rome.

Hope this is helpful. Have a great trip!

Janie

Great info so far. Thanks! I'm most worried about the weather. I don't mind the cold, but hopefully it won't rain, especially when we're in Tuscany.
Dorkforcemom....I rented the car from Hertz and will be picking it up at a location at the chiusi train station. I prepaid for a 3 day rental (you get a break that way) and the total rental cost was $218.00 USD, which includes insurance, but not the extra driver (that is 5 euros per day, which must be paid at the station). I'm also going to add some extra insurance to that, can't remember what it's called right now, but that's about 15 euros per day, which must also be done at the station. So, all in all, not a bad deal.

The weather will probably be cool & may rain; but it may also be warm in the sun, so layer.

Don't rent a bike or a scooter in Rome or you'll be dicing with death ! (Crossing the road is bad enough.) Just walk, or get buses for the occasional longer journey, e.g. to the Vatican if you are not staying near there. The buses are very easy to use & have routes on the bus stops. Buy tickets from news stands.

For 3 days, just plan to wander round the major sites and soak up the atmosphere in the Centro Storico.

I've always just bought train tickets when I arrive at the station ready to leave. It's very easy, using the self-service machines which have an English option. If you are near Termini during your wanderings around Rome, you could pop in & check the timetable if you feel like it, to give you a time to aim at leaving. Then just check the timetable for your onward legs on arrival at each subsequent destination.

For driving we've always used the Touring Club Italiano maps which are generally recommended as the best. You could order the ones for the regions you are visiting from your local bookshop. You could also go to www.viamichelin.com and print out routes.

Caroline_Edinburgh...Thanks for the info. Would you say that the printed maps from the Michelin site are fairly reliable?

I have never seen such crazy driving as in Rome! Take a cab ride if you want a thrill. Definitely do not rent a vespa or a bike, unless you have a death wish! Drivers there show no mercy.
:)>-

when driving in Italy,remember..

1.Speed limits are only a suggestion.
2.Road signs are very small and sometimes AFTER the turn.
3.Italians park anywhere.
4. Never drive any mode of transportation in a city. NO BIKES IN ROME.
5. Expect a vehicle coming right at you in your lane on every curve.

hae a fun time and keep a sense of humor.

Hi MartiB

Here's a link to the Touring Club site where you can order maps. They are the best.(IMO) http://tinyurl.com/2u4y69
Have you considered a GPS in your rental, since you say you are "map illiterate"?
Also, are you aware that you will need an International Driver's Permit for Italy?
Here's the info and application link:
http://www.aaa.com/Vacation/idpc.html

Just thought of another helpful link. You can print out all the road signs and their meaning. It can prove very helpful.
http://tinyurl.com/33l5p8

Also on this sight is a list of all the driving rule and regs for Italy.

Another vote for no vespa...my brother and I are pretty adventurous but even I talked him out of a vespa - the driving is crazy ...doesn't look like something you want to do unless you are somewhere very quiet and uncrowded...

Thanks everyone! ordering the maps now :)

My favorite Rome book is full of off-the-beaten-path things to see. And it's small enough to stick in your bag and bring with you.

http://www.amazon.com/City-Secrets-Rome/dp/1892145049

I highly suggest GPS rental from the car rental agency, if they have them. I am a great navigator (at least my husband tells me that) and I love reading maps. We were just in Italy for 12 days w/o a GPS (sometimes the road signs aren't that good) and 8 days in Hungary with a GPS. Loved it, wouldn't drive again in Europe without a GPS. This was our third trip driving in Italy with only a map, on our next trip we will have a GPS.

Although you say you're not museum people, I can't imagine going to Rome and not seeing the Gallerie Borghese for its sculpture collection. If you skipped the art of other media, you could view just the sculpture in about an hour. A reservation in early November may not be imperative, but I would still highly recommend one.

Hi Everyone,
We are leaving for Italy this Friday. The Fodors guidebook says an International Driving Permit is not necessary...is it absolutely essential to get one before we go? What will happen if we don't have one? We are renting a car in Florence and driving to Radda in Chianti.

sunsetbay...I am renting a car from Hertz and they told me that I absolutely needed an IDP. My bf will both be driving, so we were advised to both get one. It takes about 15 minutes, $15, and 2 passport photos to get it at your local AAA office.

Thank you. We are renting from Auto Europe and they never said a word about it. If I hadn't been surfing this site I would never have known!

better safe than sorry...
get the international drivers permit.

i have been asked for it at car rental places in France and Italy.

For fun and interesting ideas of what's going on in Rome while you're there, check out InRomeNow.com - they list many cafes, restaurants, etc, as well as spas, health clubs. This week their saying the Celtics and Raptors were in town to play Oct 6,7. They have a write up of the cartoon festival ( and comic book trade show - see, Rome is not all history!) And their listings of musical events (everything from rock to roccoco) are updated weekly (they really do mean NOW) so you can see what's up while you are there - just not so perfect for planning ahead, though you'll find lots of events that run several weeks or longer.

For classical music try classictic.com which has calendars for events all over Europe - will have listings for Bologna, for instance.

Try the weather underground for forecasts - this is Bologna's page:
http://www.wunderground.com/global/stations/16140.html (Cloudy and 54 fahrenheit Thursday morning)

You might also like to check out websites for the towns you're visiting . Here's Bologna's official tourism page:
http://iat.comune.bologna.it/iat/iat...PageE?openpage Calendar pages there are much less specific than the Events pages. For instance, Nov 10-11 is the DECOMELA ART Handicraft market (happens once a month, apparently).
One antiques market is every Thursday. Another is on the first Tuesday of each month. etc. Tons of theater and music listings for Nov.

tomassocroccante - wow! awesome! Thanks :)

What the Michelin website gives you is more step by step instructions than a map, just with a very high level map. Actual maps are useful too in case you get it wrong !

There's a tour-bus that leaves across the street from the Vatican entrance (forgot the name), I took the last bus, around 4-ish, & the bus at that time just goes around the sites, without stopping, like they do during the day, where tourist hop on & off, So what I did, was look at allthe local bus-numbers at the different sites I wanted to see that were too far to walk to, & the next day, I hopped on a local bus to that paarticular site.
About the train I found out AFTER I bought a train ticket the night before my trip, that pre-bought tickets are more expensive than going to the station the same day for the same ticket. (An American living in Rome on the train told me) Most important, remember to stamp your ticket at the machine you'll see as you go to the train's platform. Otherwise, you;ll get a fine on the train - they love giving out fines. For more off-the-beaten-path touring, see ricksteves.com on Rome or other parts of Italy. As chefs, just a suggestion: Naples is only a short train ride away from Rome. And all the authentic-original pizzas,as you know is made there. If interested, once you get to the main Naples station, take another train to Mergallina (sp) (merge'a'lean'a).Anyway, all the restaurants are right down the hill from the train station. The restaurants outside of the main-Naples station are set up for tourists.

And by the way, the trains are excellent from Rome (all over Italy really) to anywhere in Italy. Why would any one bother with a car - the gas alone in Italy is outragously expensive. When I was there in '01, and gas here (U.S.) was under a dollar or so a gallon, it equalled $5.99 there, & the gas stations were few with long lines. Also, liking the real thing, the trains give exposure to the local people, and the views from the windows.

Hi M,

>Would you recommend renting a bike or vespa in Rome? <

Only if you wish to die.

>We will be traveling by train from city to city....

You can get the 20% off Amica fares up to 24 hr before departure - if they are still available. I take 2cl for trips under 4 hr.

Enjoy your visit.

((I))

We will be in Rome when you are there. This is my 6th visit. I do recommend a guide for the forum. Make sure and get a good map of Rome. There's lots to see.

Hi MartiB. I probably do not have to add my 2 cents, as you have been warned by multiple posters. I live in Rome and definitely support those who urge you not to rent the bike or Vespa. The city of Rome seems to be encouraging the use of bikes by having painted bicycle icons on many sidewalks, but I cringe every time I see tourists risking their lives in Roman traffic. There was even a recent NYT article encouraging tourists to bike - the writer apparently visited Rome in August (when the Romans are away and traffic is practically non-existent). That being said, Rome is a great walking city, since you say you like walking, I suggest you get around in an enjoyable, stress-free manner. I also second the suggestion to map your car journey with the Michelin site. I use it everywhere I travel in Italy - the routes/directions are excellent. Buon viaggio!

Thanks so much everyone! I will definitely write a trip report when I get back. Just 3 more weeks!! As chefs, we are of course planning on eating our way through the entire trip, so most of my report will be food related, but I'll try to get some sightseeing done in between meals! :)

Marti - There are tons of restaurant recs for all your locations, but thought I'd throw one in.
Asinocotto in Trastevere is a "contemporary" Italian cuisine. Enjoyed meeting chef Giuliano Brenna.
http://www.asinocotto.com/

<i>Definitely do not rent a vespa or a bike, unless you have a death wish!</i>

That is exactly what I was going to say! Only Dr. Kevorkian would suggest you rent a bike or vespa in Rome. That's crazy talk. I barely survived some of my cab rides there.

You're all so funny (I mean this in a good way!) :) We will definitely NOT be renting a bike or vespa. Walking it is!

tomassocroccante - Thanks for the tip! How was the food? I just checked out the site and the menu looks great, but wanted to know what you thought of the food. Also, what night of the week did you go there? Was it lively? Thanks!

It's been a while, but I think it was a Wednesday or Thursday (!) There was a good crowd. Mostly Romans, I think, and I remember a number of couples - and a table of business people, which is something I personally haven't seen as often at dinner in Rome.

We liked the food and the atmosphere. A bit more contemporary than typical, though Rome has lots of &quot;modern&quot; restaurants.

At that, a meal we loved was in Testaccio on a Sunday night, a local restaurant filled with famillies (well-mannered ones, by the way, no kids running wild) that felt like being part of a tradition. Don't have the name of the place, though, as the card I picked up was lost somewhere between there and home.

Testaccio is also where you'll find Volpetti (AKA Formaggiomania) - if nothing else, stop there to pick up supplies for your train picnic on the way north. It's a memorable experience.

We have just returned on the 6th...car rental through Auto Europe and car came from Eurocar...we dropped off our car in Chuisi and the place is only a block from the train station. NO, do not do scooters in Rome or anywhere in Italy. Walking is the way to go. We are in our mid 60's and our only transportation was our feet....except for pick-up service to and from our apartment on arrival and departure day.
Scavi Tour is a definite is you can get the tickets...fax the Vatican for their audioguide tours of the museum and Sistine Chapel...you will avoid the very long lines that way...go to St Peter's early and you will have not line to enter at all...it opens at 7...by 10 the line was nearly 2 hours long. Julia at Rome Walks is a wonderful and knowledgable tour guide for ancient Rome....you will learn so much and it is the only way to actually know what you are seeing. Have a wonderful trip.

Also, note that while a taxi in London might set you back $50, in Rome you'll get off cheaper. One approach: have the hotel get you a taxi in the morning to take you to your furthest destination. Then work your way back through the day. Or choose another moment when you have a long distance and grab a taxi that one trip. Takes a big chunk of miles off, leaves extra time for sitting with a coffee or glass of wine, and you still see everything on your list - plus walk the roads that Caesar trod!

Marti,
You all might like to get hold of an interesting little book - not available easily here, but you may find it in Rome. &quot;Roma Staordinaria&quot; is a little guidebook (likely sponsored by the several hundred businesses in it) to shops (trendy and classic) hotels, restaurants (nuova cuisine, sushi, etc) and services (salons, spas) that could be a lot of fun for a young couple interested in food. Ask for it. If you don't find it for sale, maybe your hotel desk will have a copy.

There are others in the series for Milan, Florence, Torino and Genoa.

Thanks so much for all of your tips! I can't wait to go, but I'm also looking forward to my return so that I can tell all of you about the trip :) Thanks again!

bookmarking for the great driving links and tips. thanks!