<<I know some people, myself included, have on occasion skipped a really worth while site just because it is 'too touristy'>>

Probably so, but first of all you're not missing a whole lot by skipping St-Cirq-Lapopie that you won't have already experienced in Domme, which is a similar setup - walk up a steep hill lined with "artisan shops" selling goods made in China. At least Domme has the utterly spectacular view over the Dordogne River, which St-Cirq-Lapopie does not. And Rocamadour, unless you are a religious follower of black virgins, is mostly a cheap trinket hawkers' paradise. The fact that there's a "monkey forest" attraction right outside of it kind of pegs it for what it is, IMO.

Second, missing places that are considered "too touristy" very often means discovering things on your own, or with the help of local folks, that ultimately prove far more interesting and memorable.

<i>At least Domme has the utterly spectacular view over the Dordogne River, which St-Cirq-Lapopie does not.</i>

It couldn't, since it overlooks the Lot; and the view is not too shabby:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57627132588561

> But my point about questioning the wisdom of skipping some sites that ARE in guidebooks is that I know some people, myself included, have on occasion skipped a really worth while site just because it is 'too touristy'. I have vowed never to do that again. That's why I'm asking.

I'm confused. Didn't you decide to skip the caves that have prehistoric art (including those that are strongly recommended by most guide books)? I'm not questioning your decision - if they don't interest you, by all means, skip them! It just seems to me that with only 4 days in the Dordogne, you will be definition be skipping some "touristy" (and other) sites - there's simply to much to see and experience in that wonderful corner of the world. So see the places that most interest you or that you think you would most regret not seeing (even if only to form your own opinion). And by all means, let being considered "tourist-y" be one of the factors you consider (whether you see that as a good thing or a bad one).

<<At least Domme has the utterly spectacular view over the Dordogne River, which St-Cirq-Lapopie does not.

It couldn't, since it overlooks the Lot; and the view is not too shabby:>>

I'm confused here. Domme has a spectacular view over the Dordogne. St-Cirq-Lapopie has a not-too-shabby view over the Lot, but it's simply not that cool, and you have to get up into the parking lot nightmare to really see it. Sorry, but I really do not like St-Cirq-Lapopie for about a dozen reasons. I know it's wildly popular with lots of people and that's fine. I really dislike the place for a host of reasons.

Domme's parking is not that great either, although we've always been able to park on top in June. But I suspect that parking is a problem in any of those towns (Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Sarlat, etc.) in July and August.

A few comments.
After you rent the car in Brive you could take an indirect route to Sarlat, stopping for a late lunch or snack in Carrenac at Le Creperie, on to Rocamadour, and then to Sarlat. You probably will not have time to visit Gouffre de Padirac on that day.

On Wed you could start the day at the Sarlat market for an hour+, then to Lascaux II for the late morning English tour
( Make a reservation a couple of days ahead), have picnic lunch, buying food at Dejeuner sur l'Herbe at the river in St-Leon sur- Vezere (see Maitaitoms trip report), then on to La Roque St Christophe. You will still have the late afternoon for an additional activity.

Domme can be visited in the evening. The views are terrific. There is the Hotel de l'Eslanade $$$ or the outdoor restaurant $ next door for dinner.

Beynac is also nice at night. We had an inexpensive dinner at La Petite Tonnnelle, a block up, from the main road, on the road to the castle.

On the day you leave to go to St Remy you could stop at Grotte du Pech Merle for prehistoric cave art ( make a reservation for the 1st tour at 9AM, a month ahead of time, better yet as soon as possible). Another good pit stop is Carcassonne for a couple of hours.

You can download brochures from the Sarlat website.

http://www.sarlat-tourisme.com/en/

guide touristique

http://sarlat-tourisme.com/docs/Guid...igord-Noir.pdf

<i>On Wed you could start the day at the Sarlat market for an hour+, then to Lascaux II for the late morning English tour
( Make a reservation a couple of days ahead), have picnic lunch, buying food at Dejeuner sur l'Herbe at the river in St-Leon sur- Vezere (see Maitaitoms trip report), then on to La Roque St Christophe. You will still have the late afternoon for an additional activity.</i>

That is somewhat backwards, as La Roque-Saint-Christophe is south of Saint-Léon and Lascaux is north. I would see the Sarlat market and then finish the morning in La Roque-Saint-Christophe (just before the turn-off to La Roque that is a very good English potter on the right side of the road). Then go on to Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère for lunch and visit Lascaux in the afternoon. On the way back from Lascaux on can stop by Saint-Amand-de-Coly and Saint-Geniès.

isabel, I was reading this thread last night. I had a few (useless) comments, but refrained from making them. However, after I logged off Fodor's, I spent an hour on vrbo.com looking for rentals in the Dordogne this September. I want to get back there; I missed so much the first time.

I will say that I was not interested in the caves before I went. My friend really wanted to see at least one. We visited Font de Gaume and it was the highlight of my trip. I was quite moved, misty-eyed even, by the experience. So you never know...

Have a wonderful visit.

Michael
It is a loop either clockwise or counter clockwise. I made mine counterclockwise based on the reservation I could get at Lascaux II. I got an 11AM English tour at Lascoux II. I did not go on a Wed.I could not get my troopers going in the morning in time to see Saint-Amand-de-Coly and Saint-Geniès. I like your plan.

Leely
I really liked Font de Gaume also. We had a terrific, enthusiastic guide who talked with a passion about her subject. I think she was an anthro prof. It made a big difference.

St Cirq, yes THIS year, the beginning of May, I think we'll survive lol! The worst bit is I've now realized it's over the school holidays too! We're in Paris for four months and have added this on to a short weekend in the Luberon. So a short trip is now two weeks away, typical! We'll start this section of the trip with one night in Conques, then three nights probably in/around St Ceres, three more nights in Domme (I like the idea of being near the river but Sarlat could work too) and a night in Brantome which will enable us to see Perigeux on the drive up and Angouleme before we get on the TGV. My husband loves Romanesque/Gothic church architecture so the area has a lot of attractions!


TPAYT thanks for the link to your tripreport. I was curious to see you liked Le Reminet as we like it too and have taken multiple guests there, what a bargain with the la Fourchette discount!

<On Wed you could start the day at the Sarlat market for an hour+, then to Lascaux II for the late morning English tour
( Make a reservation a couple of days ahead)>

I tried to make a reservation for Lascaux in mid June and was advised that they only take reservations in July and August. The woman at Semitour advised me to arrive first thing in the morning to make sure we get tickets.

There are romanesque churches ALL OVER the Dordogne. Your husband will be enthralled. Be sure to see the very famous Chapelle St-Martin just outside Limeuil (and read about it ahead of time or read the plaques when you get there). And the one in St-Léon-sur-Vézère...just beautiful.

<i>The woman at Semitour advised me to arrive first thing in the morning to make sure we get tickets.</i>

We've never had problems with reservations at Lascaux II in May or June. We usually arrive in Montignac around 11, reserve an afternoon English tour, and then have a picnic lunch in a little park (2 picnic tables) that's on the way to the cave.

Isabel, I have followed your travel photography work over the years. I love the photos you come back with, and I look forward to seeing what you capture during your Dordogne adventure.

Thanks a lot susan001. I hope the photos come out well.