Planning for Italy 2012, focus on Rome & Amalfi Coast...suggestions?
 

The travelers: 40's and active

Travel experience: France/Paris the past few years; like apartments but OK with hotels; we don't usually use many hotel services
she-visited Italy before (Milan, Venice, Lake Garda, Rimini) he-never been

Language: non parlo Italiano

Time: Absolutely not August; late September/early October-would like to avoid massive crowds

Where: I have dreamed of the Amalfi Coast for years, Rome...open to other suggestions that make sense

What we enjoy: food and wine....we love Prosecco, Parmesan and Prosciutto; places we can explore on our own; prefer to go on our own vs groups or guides

Logistics: we will need help there...most likely fly in or out of Rome; maybe into Rome and out of Naples...we are spoiled by living in Atlanta and rarely have to make connections; neither of us drives a stick shift (uh-oh) and we have never driven outside of the US

So, where are your favorite cities in the AC? Where would you stay?
Best way to get from Naples to AC (or vice versa)? Best way to get from Rome to Naples (or vice versa)?
Where to stay in Rome? I know nothing about Rome (in Paris, we love the 6th or Ile St Louis). We don't want to be in the party central part of town, nightlife not important, great restaurants are important. Hotel or apartment?

Will worry about restaurants, sites to see, great shopping a bit later. Your ideas are appreciated. I have always gotten great advice from Fodorites regarding France, so I look forward to hearing your thoughts on Italy (I feel like I am cheating on the France Fodorites)!

Denise...

When I saw this I did a little happy dance, because as much as I enjoy Paris (as I know you do) I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE Italy and Rome is my favorite!

My first question to you is, how much time do you have? Amalfi Coast and Rome can be a good combination, but don't short-change one over the other. If you can get somewhere between 10 days to 2 weeks that would be ideal to spend 5-7 days in each location.

There is so much to do in Rome, but with a week you could easily do a day trip or 2. Sorrento may be a good jumping off point for the Amalfi coast, but there are lots of small towns along the coast that you could easily base yourself in Amalfi itself, or Positano, or some other smaller town, but a car would be a definite need in the smaller towns, IMHO. There is a Sita bus service between towns on the Amalfi coast, but then you are tied to their schedule. There are other Fodorites who are better versed in the "ins and outs" of the Amalfi coast than I am. Back in 2009 I spent a week there with a group of friends...I'll pull up the trip report and post it here.

I also have several Rome trip reports posted you may want to check out...yes, I'm a big-time Italia-phile! :-)

I think your idea of late Sept/early Oct is a great one. In 2009 I spent a week in Rome and we had (knock on wood) the most beautiful weather...but you know how weather can be, and it's never the same year to year. But, crowds will certainly be less.

If I were planning this trip with Amalfi and Rome in mind I would probably fly into Naples (get the connection situation out of the way at the beginning of the trip) and head straight for the Amalfi coast. If you rented a car, you could pick it up at the Naples airport and I'd recommend either dropping it off and taking the train from Naples to Rome to do the Rome portion of the trip, or drive to Rome, but drop the car at the Rome airport...I would have to be out of my mind to try and drive within Rome...but that's just me. I prefer to not do the driving, but everyone is different.

As for places to stay in Rome, the Trastevere neighborhood (across the Tiber from the Centro Storico) jumped to my mind first for you...the other option is somewhere in the Centro Storico (Historic Center), within walking distance of Campo dei Fiori, or Piazza Navona.

I have stayed in both hotels and apartments in Rome and have enjoyed both for a variety of reasons. There are lots of aparment rentals in Rome and it can be mind-boggling! Right now Fodorite Jamikins and BikerScott are in Rome and they are doing a live "on the ground" trip report. They are renting an apartment in Trastevere, you many want to peruse what they have to say.

Sorry to be soooo long-winded here. I also have some restaurant and enoteca recommendations as well as a good wine tasting to book, if that interests you. But I will leave you with all this for now to ponder. ;-)

And I know, I need to get crackin' on my France trip report!

Denise...

Here are my Italy trip reports you may want to check out:

April 2009 Amalfi Coast Trip:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-and-rome.cfm

December 2007 Rome Trip:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ernal-city.cfm

Dec. 2008 Rome Trip:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ar-holiday.cfm

Oct. 2009 Rome Trip:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ip-to-roma.cfm

Nov. 2010 Bologna & Rome Trip:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm

Did this in May Intercontinental.com and Sheraton Roma for
$59/nt on hotwire.com. Trained to Naples Sorrento on the
Fast train seat61.com/Italy stayed at Majestic Palace(Pompeii)
Hotel Delfino and Best Western Paistea Positano all
were great $100 or less booking.com otel.com
eurocheapo.com for great budget city tips.
We had a blast hope you do too.

Have fun!

LCI...you rock and I feel better already because I know I will get good advice from you. I know so many names on the France forum, so it's very reassuring to see those familiar names.

I have been reading a bit on Jamikins T/R.

I think we will do at least 10 days, maybe 12. Thanks so much for the T/R links. I see you were in Rome at Christmas...that is another thought as we enjoyed being in Europe over Christmas and it was a big topic of conversation this Christmas. AC would be out if we went at Christmas, I know but I am sure there would be plenty to do and see.

Yay Denise! Rome and the A/C make a wonderful combination! I would equally divide the time between the A/C and Rome - a week each would be ideal (easier for renting apartments).

Personally, I would fly into Naples and start your vacation with the Amalfi Coast, and then finish your vacation in Rome and fly home from there. As was recommended to me when I was researching our trip to the A/C (renting a villa there this June), I recommend staying in Positano. Quintiscential Amalfi Coast and it has good transportation connections to the other towns on the A/C - either ferry or SITA bus. You can easily get around utilizing public transportation.

To get from Naples to Positano, the easiest is to hire a driver (I have seen quotes around $100). To get from Positano to Rome, you could take the ferry from Pos to Salerno and then the train from Salerno to Rome.

In Rome, you should stay as close as possible to the Centro. That way you can walk everywhere and return to your hotel to rest. Our trip to Italy this year was the end of September and early October and the weather was wonderful. The last three years our trips to Italy have always been, in part, in September and I highly recommend it. Another reason I recommended starting at the A/C is that some transportation options stop or reduce service in October, so you could do the Rome portion in October if you wanted to go that late.

You will have a great time!

Denisea,

You wrote:

"we love Prosecco, Parmesan and Prosciutto;"

Parmagiano Reggiono cheese comes from Parma, which is nowhere near the Amalfi Coast. Please don't think I'm putting you down or discouraging you from going to Rome and the Amalfi. But please consider eating what is local to Rome and the Amalfi.

Mozzarella cheese is at its most fantastic in the area between Naples and Salerno. Eat seafood and anchovies. Eat pastas made with lemon sauces and drink limoncello as an after dinner drink. The best local white wine is Greco dl Tufo (it is great). When you are around Rome, try drinking Est! Est! Est!

Do yourself a favor and skip the proscuitto and "parmesan" if you see on the menu in the Amalfi. You can probably get better in Atlanta, and I am not kidding. Someday, please plan a dream trip that includes a visit to Parma to eat these things, and you will not believe how much different the real thing tastes.

Ekscrunchy on Fodor's is a big-time foodie who goes to the Amalif all the time. Look up her posts and see what and where she eats. Try those dishes. Eat that cheese. But in Rome, eat like a Roman -- artichokes, lamb, eggs (you might like carbonara), and instead of parmagiano, eat pecorino. Buy books like David Downie's guides to eating in Rome or Fred Plotkin's.

Have a great time on your trip.

Pay close attention to lowcountryislander (a dear friend) because she will steer you right.

IMO, a car in Rome is a liability. Also, IMO, the Sita busses are a dependable transportation on the Amalfi Coast.

Take a look at Onda Verde near Priano.

Thanks all (and yes, zeppole, I know that Parmesan and Parma hams are not from Amalfi). I do love carbonara and actually make it quite well, but will definitely eat what is local to the area I am in. I am also aware that lemon is abundant on the Amalfi Coast. Didn't mean for anyone to take comment that so literally, not worried about food now, as long as they have plenty when I get there!

DRJ...have "befriended" LCI on the France side of the forum, so I feel like I am in good hands there! Appreciate the car info...the less time we are doing the driving, the better!

ekc, thanks for timing info...I have heard that October may be a bit too late for AC, so thanks for your suggestions there. This is exactly the type of stuff we need to know in planning! Off to a good start...thanks to all.

No problem D! I have lots of info since I have been planning my A/C trip for over 2 years! :-) Just FYI, we are renting the large apartment in this villa, on the recommendation of a friend who lives just outside Salerno. www.villalesirene.com.

Sounds like a nice trip. We did a similar trip a couple of years ago, spending 2 weeks in Rome and the Amalfi Coast. Just one suggestion - I wouldn't travel to the AC in December. Much is likely to be closed and the weather, which is lovely in late September and early October, can be chilly and rainy in December. That is not what you want for a seaside destination.

Denise...

I have to give a nod to DRJ on his Amalfi Coast recommendation about buses, he knows better than I do about that and do check out his recommendation for Onda Verde near Priano.

Perhaps I can fill in a few gaps for your visit to our area?

In most of the AC towns and villages, any time through until late October should be fine, with only places that directly threatened by the sea closing before then - and most others continuing until just after the All Souls / All Saints holiday. The end-of-summer rains can strike as early as August, but more usually arrive in October - mostly as shortish but heavy downpours and electrical storms!

You've picked a lovely time and, as you've already gathered, visitor numbers (and the extreme temperatures) will indeed have begun to fall away...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/130860386

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/137093820

For lots of September and October photos - mainly taken here on Ischia, thirty or so miles away and our home for almost a decade now - try...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/pics_sept

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/recoct

A slight downside is that both the frequency, and the variety, of seasonal ferry services tail off once the schools start again - typically September 14th/16th. Take this, from one of the main AC operators, as being indicative rather than an exact forecast of what will happen...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/130578291

Even so, you'll find that those boats and hydrofoils are a relatively commodious alternative to the SITA buses, many of which get impossibly busy at peak times of day!

If you've not seen it, there's a useful "Travel Directory" to the area (a little old, so do double-check times, prices etc) that offers more than most guidebooks, here....

http://www.costiera.it/images/pdf/Tr...rectory_En.pdf

Whilst Sorrento does have good connections, it's by no means a typical Italian resort - with foreign visitors accounting for some 85% of its tourism...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/138495555

Depends where you'll be visiting but here's a rough guide to travel times....
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/132567370

Lastly, for a guide to our local culinary specialities, try this - food porn at its best!
http://www.bb-napoli.com/english/specialities-guide.pdf

Peter

PS: As for Rome.... while the warmer months allow you to enjoy more of the city's outdoor life, we've yet to find a time of year that doesn't offer its own pleasures:

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/lazio

.... but do note that September and October, particularly, are both busy - and expensive!

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/126202609

Many thanks. Yes, mamcalice, if we visited in December we would stick to Rome and not visit the AC at all.

I am surprised to see how busy Rome is in October!

Nice looking apartment, ekc. Thanks for the website. Peter, wow! thanks for such detailed info and especially for the food porn!

Hi Denisea! In september 2009 we went to Paris, the Amalfi coas and rome(one week each); it was a most wanderful trip.If you are interested, you can reach the report at:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...1-to-oct-3.cfm

some "must visit" are:
Amalfi, Positano; Ravello; Capri(including the church in Anacapri that has majolica fllor);Pompeii and a site we will visit in a longer stay in 2013:Paestum.
Enjot your planning and the trip!!!! September was ideal.

I mean Paestum

Denisea: Here you will finf very interestin info on the AC and Capri:
http://www.onelittleworld.com/campania_1.html

Thanks jelopez for the above website...great info, very much appreciated. I remember your T/R from 2009 and will re-read it!

Denisea, we've just returned from a wonderful time in Paris, and intend to post a report soon. As much as we enjoy Paris, (our sixth visit) and leave it wondering how soon we can return, we love Italy and just happened to catch your post about your upcoming planned visit. We've visited Italy three times, but there is so much to see that it's another place on our "must return to" list. We almost went to Rome and A/C in late Sept.'11, but found it difficult to plan transportation and hotels as we started our planning too late, so we changed our plans and visited Barcelona/Isla Mallorca instead. There seem to be plenty of trip reports from others who have visited Italy. But since you were one who supported our idea of staying in the 6th in Paris, and we loved it, just thought we'd share that in Rome, we liked staying on a quiet street in the area of Trevi Fountain. On our last trip, we stayed at Hotel Delle Nazioni, a moderately-priced little Italian hotel in that area. We were able to walk to many popular areas and were close to lots of restaurants and shops. The hotel is across the city from the Vatican. For that visit we took a cab. We went early, and followed up our Vatican visit with a walk to Trastevere. (Some people like to stay in Trastevere, but we think it's not as convenient for most things. However, it's nice to visit and have a meal there.) We'd definitely suggest a visit to the Borghese Gallery. Bernini's genius makes marble appear like silk or satin! As much as we like to remained "unscheduled" on trips, we thought it was worth it to book ahead online for the Borghese Gallery, as it is small and allows only a limited number per hour.

So many thoughts about Italy, but depending upon the timing
of your travel, flying into Pisa and visiting the Tuscan area, including Florence, then traveling to Rome and departing from Rome is an alternative to the A/C. We loved the Amalfi Coast, but the seasonal timing is a little trickier. Florence is wonderful, especially since you seem to be interested in art.

Just a few thoughts, Denisea. We loved Italy, and know that you will also. We're eager to follow your plans as they progress.

desnisea - I am so glad to hear you are thinking about Rome and the Amalfi Coast - you will love them!!

We spent a week in Positano in 2007 and just loved it. We highly recommned using www.summerinitaly.com for apartments. I may have missed above how much time you want to spend in each place, but if you have a week on the Amalfi Coast they were great to work with!

I would also highly recommend the flat in Trastevere in our Rome report. It was perfect, with the exception of a firm bed which we did get used to over the week.

Cant wait to read the trip report!! I MISS ITALY!

God, I love this forum.

Tomarkot, thanks so much for your thoughts. We are not set on anything...the AC is a dream but we certainly don't think we would be "settling" for Florence/Tuscany. We do prefer to fly in or out of Rome, because we are spoiled and can fly direct from Atlanta to/from Rome. I am now sold on Borghese Gallery having seen a few things on the forum regarding it but yours is the first that explains why I should go!

jamikins-thanks..I have so enjoyed your T/Rs and you two seem like a blast! Will check out the apartments.

I am getting to be someone who has to start planning the next trip as soon as I return from one. i actually love the planning and realize that I need to something to look forward to!

Denise, I was in Rome in April 2011 and we stayed at the Hotel Raphael. It was really lovely. Just off the Piazza Navona, so very centrally located but tucked away a bit so not noisy.
We walked everywhere except sometimes at night when we had more far flung dinner reservations and then we cabbed it.

We had one of the Richard Meier rooms which overlooked the little street at the front of the hotel and it was really a gorgeous room. The hotel is covered in ivy and very charming.
We will definitely stay there again.

I second the recommendation above for gelato at Frigidarium, which is nearby.....delicious!!

Also will weigh in on the Gallery Borghese. The Bernini sculptures on the first floor brought me to tears both times I've seen them. This last time I looked over at my sister in law and sure enough her eyes were brimming with tears as well.

Denise...

I'll be another voice stressing my delight with the Borghese Gallery...Bernini's sculptures are unbelievable. I've been twice and seriously considering a third visit during my March trip to Rome, if only to see the sculptures!

A hotel I've stayed at twice and really like is the Hosianum Palace a former residence of a Polish Cardinal, it's a small-ish, around 30 room hotel. On a side street between Piazza Venezia and Largo Argentina (both with great public transporation connections). It's not super luxury, but slightly above "bare bones" you may want to check it out. In my experience with them, they only publish room rates on their website about 6 months out, but you can get a feel for the place from their website. http://www.hosianum.com/

I am horrified that I have been unaware of Borghese Gallery all this time...now i want to get there yesterday.

I do appreciate a good gelato rec as I am sure it will be key to the best possible vaca, no? :-) If anyone remembers my devotion to my first Berthillon ice cream you will know I am seriously sincere about this!

There is a super luxe Hilton(Cavalieri)in Rome and I have a ton of points...but am not sure...I don't think it is centrally located but do know it is very nice. I also have a lot of Amex points and am considering using them to stay at Le Sireneuse in Positano. Still mulling it over and looking at everyone's suggestions.

Hi Denisea,

If we had enough points to stay at that Hilton in Rome, we'd go for it. Lodging is expensive, and, by comparison, taxis are cheap. The Hilton you described is close to the city center. The hotel we described in our post above would be nothing like the Hilton!

Good luck as you continue planning!

The hotel is definitely out of the way but has an incredible restaurant!

It sounds like it may be too early for you to decide if you want to rent an apartment but if you do, www.sleepinitaly is a great site. Lots of apartments to choose from, reputable company and often much less than a hotel room. Just be sure to stay either in Trastevere or the historic center.

Personally I think it is great to have more space that an apartment provides. If one partner wants to rest while the other wants to watch TV or read they do not disturb the other. I always feel very confined in a hotel room as there is usually nowhere but the bed to relax on...no sofa or comfortable chairs. There is nothing like having a fridge for that bit of cheese and wine and more space to come home to after a day of walking all over Rome.

Hi Denise

I've followed your Paris travels and I think I have a sense of your tastes, although I may be way off base.

I really don't think that you will love either Trastevere OR the Hilton in Rome. The Hilton is too far from the center. You like the 6th in Paris, and opted for the 7th for something different. Trastevere is occasionally too student-filled and with too many down market shops for even me, and I do gritty all the time. I would suggest the Spanish Steps area, and an apartment for you in Rome. Plenty of agencies rent for 3+ nights.

Use those points to splash out on La Sireneuse. You will be in heaven.

Last year, we had the same (delightful) dilemna as you: It's our first trip to Rome! Where do we stay?

We stayed in the Pantheon area which we found central to all the major sights we wanted to see. While comfortable (but stylish!) walking shoes were our main mode of transportation for the week, we were not adverse to taking a cab in the morning to a sight (eg. Borghese Gallery, Colosseum), spending time there & then meandering back to the hotel in the afternoon.

We stayed at the Albergo Cesari. It was fabulous - excellent service and comfortable, spacious & air-conditioned room! Bonus: It has a rooftop terrace where breakfast is served or in the evening, where you can go for a late-night drink!

www.albergocesari.it

Have fun planning your trip!

We were in Rome last April and loved it. We had an apartment in the Centro Storico on the Via del Corso, two blocks from the Vittorio Emanuelle monument. We rented from Sleep in Italy and had no problems. We loved our location and walked everywhere.

The second night when we were "lost" while wandering after gelato, we found the Pantheon. It was our joke, in fact that is the one thing that we passed almost every day whether intentionally or not.

Here is one more vote for the Borghese Gallery. While I didn't enjoy the paintings upstairs as much as DH, the sculptures on the first floor were amazing. Apollo and Daphne, WOW.

Denise:As I am also someone who loves to plan trips in advance, I have an apartment earmarked for our return (in 2013!!!!9; it is http://www.romecapitalapartments.com...gli/Miguel-157
Really close to Ara Pacis; 10 minutes or so to the Vatican or Castel Santangelo,also some 10 or 15 minutes to Piazza del Poppolo or Piazza di Spagna; even closer to via del Corso and via Condotti(bring plenty of credit cards) ; we were in a (really bad) hotel in this neighborhood in 2009 and really liked it.
Re Amalfi Coast:beware there is no Starbucks for Chaz(at least as far as I know!!!!)

jelopez33...that is a good looking apt! Chaz did go a week in Paris this time without setting foot in a Starbucks (but became addicted to the Nespresso machine in the apt).

The Borghese Gallery is sold. Can't wait to get there.

jscarbury...love to be "lost" on vacation...it's when you find the really great stuff

tuscanlifeedit...the lack of central locale is what I am worried about with the Hilton Cavalieri, but I do hear very good things about it. You probably do know exactly what we would go for...glad to hear the positive about Le Sireneuse...I do have a feeling that even with the mistakes you make you still think, "well, hell I'm in Rome"!

2010...that looks like a great hotl, so we will consider that, as well

lowcountry...we do like apartments and i agree on the refrigerator....so many choices and decisions

thank you all for your suggestions and responses! I appreciate it.

denisea,

May last trip is now a few years ago (tragic), but I started with a week on the Amalfi Coast and also spent 5 days in Rome. My old trip report might give you some additional ideas. "Just Back - Dayle's Solo Trip to Italy".

Buon viaggio!

My goodness Denise we are following each other around the globe. We just got back from our 1st Christmas in Paris (read all about your Thanksgiving trip and also looked at your previous trip over christmas) and we re headed to Italy and Sicily in march. I know we are having a big year, 2 trips, but we only live once as my sweet mother-in-law keeps telling us so we should go when we can. We are off to Rome for 4 days then over to Sicily for about a week then a few days in Paris. I booked us a room at the Hotel Campo de Fiori in Rome as my sister in law is coming with us and we are sharing a triple room. She has never been and is so excited. The hotel is more expensive than we are used to paying but what the heck. I have been scouring all day for flights from Rome to Catania. Such fun planning.

Oh and the Borghese is woth seeing the Daphne and Apollo sculpture alone. Just gorgeous!!

denise - i know that you will love Rome. i agree entirely with those who've said that you want to be as central as possible, and to consider an apartment. We've done that twice now, both times for a week or so, and it's just much more comfortable. we didn't use them to cook much [though i did in Venice, strangely enough] not even breakfast, but Rome is not short of places to buy delicious ingredients if that's what you want to do. We actually found that it was the cheapest of the "big 3" cities of Italy for eating out, and we enjoyed the food there the most too.

have a great trip!

We were in Rome and the Amalfi Coast and Tuscany 2 years ago. Our first trip to Italy and now we are hooked! We went to the Lakes this past September, and this year we will visit Venice and the Chianti area. However, a repeat visit to Rome MUST happen in 2013!

In Rome we stayed here for 5 nights, very easy to walk most everywhere. Walter and Natlalia were beyond helpful. They also have several other apartments as you will see on the webpage.

http://www.dolceroma.com/campo-fiori.htm

We flew in and Walter and Natalia had a driver pick us up at the airport. When we were ready to leave their driver took us to pick up our rental car.

When we left Rome we drove down to Paestum to see the Temples, it was awe inspiring. We stayed at Il Granaio dei Casabella, lovely rooms and you can walk to the temples.

We then left for Ravello on the Amalfi coast and stayed here, Roberto is a gem, and the B&B just lovely

http://www.puntacivita.it/

From Ravello we visited Pompeii and several Amalfi villages and gardens, and took a boat up and down the coast (arranged by Roberto)

Check the reviews on Trip Advisor, when we get back to those areas, we will stay at these places again.

You will love love love it!

We just did that same trip this year. You can read my trip report here! :)

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...iva-italia.cfm

For Rome, we highly recommend this apartment. One of the best we've stayed in, in a fantastic area of Rome. The owner goes out of her way to make your stay perfect : http://www.rhomeylets.it/

Thanks...I am torn between the hotel and an apartment. We do like an apartment and don't cook on vacation! We might bring on somethings for breakfast or snacks, but I am not ever going to cook on vacation!

The free aspect of the Hilton Cavalieri is a motivating factor, I have to admit. But we are weighing our options for sure. Dayle, I will check out your T/R for sure!

What a coincidence LRock! We will hope to be "disease free" in Italy!!

For those familiar with AC, where do you recommend (town)as the best location to stay to see it all? We will want to stay in one place as a home base for that part of the trip. Or where should we not stay?!