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LCBoniti, I had encountered a few "holes" in Provence but never in Paris. The first was at L'Ecurie, which I understand is a very old restaurant and building. I was a bit stunned but had no choice!
I wanted to do/see some new things and thought Michael might be the way to go. His fees were reasonable, even with the weak $, but neither of us were prepared for how much fun and what good company he would be (even w/o all the red wine.) He will be mad if he sees this but when we were at lunch he dropped his glass of red wine on himself and my Pudlo so now I will always think of him when I drool over the Pudlo reviews!! |
Our 9 pm dinner was at Ami Jean in the 7th. This is another place that has been on my list for the last 3 trips but never made the cut. It almost didn't this time but so many of you told me that it has friendly service and great food so we decided to try it-a hearty thank you to you. We were initially dining at Il Vino, where the menu only lists wine and then they cook a meal to perfectly compliment the wine. They recently got a Michelin star too, and the concept was innovative. The menus were 50, 100 and 1000 E. However, our friends ate there a few nights prior, told us that the 50 E menu was no more, and that the food was not on par with the wine. We knew we were coming off a long day and were we happy we chose Ami Jean, a basque restaurant. It was packed when we got there, and yes,tables are quite close, but we knew that and sat in between a really nice couple from Texas and 2 young French women who licked the rice pudding bowl clean!! The service was friendly, and there was alot of positive fun engergy in the place. The meals were 32 E for 3 courses and we ordered a suggested wine of 25 E for a total of 89 E, our cheapest and tied for favorite restaurant.
DH had a risotto w/ bone marrow that was better than the ones we remember from Florence, pork w/ lentils and AMAZING MASHED POTATOES, and his share of the rice pudding. I had a first of lobster claw w/ fresh spring vegetables, can't remember my main but remember it was great (could all that wine be kicking in now?) and the rice pudding. The rice pudding was served in a big bowl to share, and each individual bowl and candied nuts on the bottom for texture and taste. Then you spooned (or shoveled as I did!) the rice pudding in then topped it w/ the caramel sauce. It was the fluffiest, most delicious dessert I have ever eaten. I admit I really like rice pudding but don't know if I can ever eat it again after this display of perfection. Even DH really liked it, and he is a chocolate person. We waddled home after dinner and prepared mentally for our first day of museums with the 2 day museum pass... |
Glad you liked L'Ami Jean. It's such a treat when a place that you've been wanting to get to for so long turns out to be as great as you were hoping it would.
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Wed and Thurs are our museum days so we bought a 2 day museum pass. In the morning we went to San Chappelle, which is awe inspriring. Even w/ pass, there was a line for security-took about 20 mins. We grabbed a sandwich, and ate in the courtyard of the Lourvre, and then went in. I love the open airy entrances with the marble sculptures, somehow for me the whole being more effective than the parts.Last trip, I enjoyed the Lourvre more than than the Orsay, but the reverse was true this trip. After the Lourvre, we got to the Orangerie, which has never been open in prior trips. The museum pass says it is open until 7, but this in an error-it closes at 6. We got there at 5:30 and they would not let us in. We, and many others showed them the hours but no luck. I was pretty annoyed but we figured we'd walk up the Champs and to to the Ard de Triomphe. We were tired from yesterday and I find museums hard on the feet but walk we did, only to find the Arc was also closed for some official ceremony. We walked home, had a glass of rose and then walked to Le Troquet, our other favorite place for dinner. We were surprised to see it only 1/2 full and we were once again able to eat outside.Food, as always,was fabulous. Last trip, we did the chefs tasting menu but this time opted for the 30 E dinner with a great SW wine for 25 E. Both our favorite dinners were our most reasonable. I think we really appreciate Basque food. DH got the charcrouterie, which came w/ about 5 or 6 different sausages, AYCE. I had something like bruschetta over a delicious baked tart. We each had the pork w/ mashed pots (Ami Jeans were more decadent) and DH had a hard chocolate coating w/ chocolate mousse inside, surrounded by vanilla sauce. This was his favorite dessert. I had lemon curd pudding w/ chopped mango. The desserts have much improved from our last trip-I think they brought on a new pastry chef.
We walked back, ran to the apt for a bottle of wine (wine consumption seems to be increasing!) , and sat on the lawn of the Champ du Mars (we were way above the average age-most our age sat on benches but it was so much fun!) while the Eiffel Tower twinkled. Great end to a wonderful day. |
Plambers - thank you for your extremely thoughtful trip review. You ate at several places I'm interested in. Can you tell me how far in advance you made reservations for Spring and L'Ami Jean? Will it be hard to make reservations at L'Ami Jean if I don’t speak English? Thank you!
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Txgrl, glad it is helpful. I have relied on so much information from other posters so am glad to give back. I think a few days to a week at Ami Jean would be fine. Spring was booked about 3 months in advance. I was told they are booked thru July.
We had no problems booking in English. Most places were able to describe the menu to us in English, too, which is diffent from our prior trips. I'd like to think we knew more French,but I doubt it. I think I have two more dinner posting left- for Spring and Afaria, that we also really liked. |
Thank you! I thought Daniel Rose's comment about no restaurant being worth having to make reservations 8 months out was funny, since his restaurant seems to be heading in that direction. You've also help alleviate my nervousness about calling in advance. Can't wait to read your review of Spring.
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TXgrl, Spring sat 14 the night we were there and Le Comptoir sat a few more only b/c of the outdoor seating. They are so small so book up immediately. I admit I found Daniel's comment a bit amusing too- he is quite confident. Ami Jean seat more, as do Le Troquet and some others.
The first time I tried to call Spring I was told to call back, that I was booking too far in advance. Then I called when told and was told they were full. I am not the type to give up so called again and got a dinner reservation for a night that I already had dinner reservations, so I changed the existing reservations. I know this may be hard to believe, but this was the most relaxed about reservations I have been!! This was our first trip where we walked and then figured out where to eat lunch. I do need to know where my dinner reservations are though! |
You sound like my kind of traveler, plambers. I agree fully with the need for dinner reservations, and I too am much more flexible about lunch. It kind of makes my husband crazy, but he's always happy after we have a good meal. I am impressed with your determination about Spring. So the restaurant accepts reservations three months out? I was planning to call in September for December. : ) Your great reviews also added a few places to my short list.
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Txgrl, my husband is happy that I book the restaurants, too! (Does anal retentive have a hypen?!!) (smile) I would try 3 months prior and see what they say.
One restaurant that is not included in my trip report is Le Pamphlet, which we love. It was closed the whole time we were there. It is a favorite-great comfy chairs, well spaced, gracious service, and phenominal food. Keep that in mind... |
Thanks again! We will definitely add Le Pamphlet to our list of possibilities. The only problem I have is too many great places to choose from.
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Plambers...
I am really enjoying your trip report. I will be in Paris in September (unfortunately only for 3 nights!) but will keep your restaurant recommendations handy for making reservations! |
Plambers, thanks for the enjoyable report. I like that you have focused on restaurants, this is exactly the type of information I can use. You've made me hungry :)
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Michel, I think most can figure out what to do and see in Paris-meals can be a bit more daunting. Our last 2 dinners at Spring and Afaria to follow shortly...
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Plambers, I am enjoying your report. Looking forward to hearing about Spring.
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With dogs a barkin', we set off for the Orangerie which has been closed on prior trips. It was amazing. There was one of the art owner's wife that I loved. Waterlillies did not disapppoint either. The museum is like eye candy for the soul. From there we went to the Orsay, which I enjoyed more this trip than last. The various paintings of the cathedral at Ruen are some of my favorites. Alot was closed for the holiday so we found a small cafe and ate lunch outside. From there, we headed to Napoleon's tomb and the renovated and much improved World War 2 section, which my husband really liked. It was almost all men and they were all so entranced there! I sat down and snoozed a bit. It was a long day and we rested a bit before we we left for our much anticipated dinner at Spring.
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Enjoying this report so much.
mimi, a friend and fan of Michael |
It's great to read this report. I'm just back myself and reporting on great restaurants too ("Paris report: 10 fabulous nights")
I called Spring months in advance and could only get a lunch reservation, which we grabbed. Although our lunch was delicious, I suspect dinner is the better meal. Details will be coming in my report. I hear he's now fully booked for lunch and dinner until the end of July! |
Mimi, I told Michael he had many fans and how so many fodorites came to his defense when some negative comments were posted about him. How do you know him?
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We were on our way to the much anticipated dinner at Spring. Although it is a small restaurant (seated 14 the night we were there) it was docorated very nicely w/ some lovely callalillies etc. When we arrived at 8:40 (there is one seating only-dinner is served around 9pm w/ no choices) there was one other couple and a woman who was a groupie! She sat next to the cooking station and took photos of everything and kept telling Daniel how amazing he was!! It then filled to capacity.
The woman who served etc. (was that his French wife?) was lovely and the service was the most friendly and professional we have experienced since Astrance. She served us some delicious olives which I ate immediately and she replaced immediately! Since she knew what we were being served, she recommended a white a 2006 Domaine de la Cadette Melon Bourgogne Grande Ordinaire, which we really enjoyed. The fist course was a fried egg (cooked much less that they do in the states) w/ morel mushrooms, peas and a pea puree flavored w/ mint. DH and I are not fans of eggs, especially runny ones, but we somehow managed to eat some of the egg b/c the rest of the appetizer was so tasty. The 2nd course was my favorite-smoked trout and bacon w/ potato salad and a small herb salad-very tasty, fresh, personified spring (no pun intended!). Main dish was guinea fowl w/ asparagus in a broth that was very nice and light and then the triple dessert of a strawberry "smoothie" w/ lemon curd and a few pieces of a delicious hazelnut cookie on the bottom, a fresh fruit salad w/ mint and a spoonful of a decadent chocolate garnache. DH was yearning for some of the earlier desserts w/ chocolate but I was very happy with this. It was a light, fresh, springtime meal that set us back 42E each for dinner and 39 E for wine for a total of 123 E. His dinner changes every night. We were glad we went but not sure I would jump thru all the hoops to eat there again. At the end of the meal, we spoke w/ Daniel. He told me that when his folks come to town (he is from Chicago) they can't even get reservations b/c he is so booked. He is also planning to open another Spring in Japan, keeping each open for 6 months. BYW, lunch is the same price but less food is served so dinner is the was to go. Tomorrow-our last day in Paris, and dinner at Afaria... |
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