Paris: St-Germain Area Exploration and Shopping
 

Would apreciate your help in compiling a list of interesting things to do and see in this area. Using Invalides as the western border and Jardin du Luxumbourg as the eastern border.

I've listed some below and also a few places to eat or get a drink. Need your feedback on the ones listed as well as additional ones. Looking to include some quirky and unual things and photo opportunities.

St-Germain Area Exploration & Shopping

Start at MO: La Tour Maubourg, Vennes, or Invalides

Hotel Invalides - Golden Dome (1706)

Napoleon's Tomb, Army Museum and Order of the Liberation Museum

Musee Rodin & Garden: 77 rue de Varenne
Note: When in the garden - "line up" the Thinker, Napoleon's Gold Dome and the Tour Eiffel

Hotel de Matignon: 57 rue de Verenne:
Beautiful building & Garden where Talleyrand once lived

Le Musée Maillol: 61 rue de Grenelle. Closed Tues. 11Am to 6Pm. Collection is housed in a beautiful 18C mansion famous for fountain and significant works by others: Cézanne, Degas, Gauguin, Matisse, Picasso and Renoir.

The Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal: 140 Rue du Bac

Au Bon Marche Department Store. 24 rue de Sevres. MO: Sevres-Babylone. Founded in 1852, the world's first department store covers 32,000 sq meters on 5 levels.Large grocery store called "la Grande Epicerie."

Explore shops on Rue de Servres/Rue du Four towards St-Sulpice and adjacent Rues: du Dragon, Cherche Midi, and Bonaparte

Refreshments at Laduree. 21 rue Bonaparte (corner of rue Jacob and Bonaparte). Famous for macaroons.

Explore the Rue de Buci street market (except Mon) Hawkers compete for your attention; artfully-arranged stalls and great-smelling shops compete for your eye and appetite. Cafés lining the street are good for watching the show.

Musee Delaxcroix. 6 rue de Furstenberg. Closed Monday. Open 0945-1700. Museum Card. Last apartment and studio occupied by Delacroix from 1857 to 1863.Personal memorabilia and works of the artist.

Musee Hebert. 85 rue du Cherche-Midi. M: Vaneau. Closed Tuesday. Open 1230-1800. Museum Card. Works of the painter, Ernest Hébert (1817-1908).Artist's house evokes the complex and refined spirit of the second half of the nineteenth century. talian landscapes.

Musée de la Monnaie. 11, quai de Conti. Closed Mon. Open: 1-6 p.m. Late Wed until 2100. Museum Card. Remarkable collection of coins and medals presenting the history of France from the Renaissance to the present. Stained glass windows from the Renaissance, paintings, engravings.

Buy soap at Fragonard a block west of Café Flore on the corner of rue des St-Pères.

La Maison Ivre, on elegant rue Jacob (dense with interesting antique shops and bookstores), sells handmade Provençal pottery. Small yellow and green olive bowls make pretty gifts.

St-Germain-des-Prés is the oldest church in Paris

To the side of the church, in a small square, is Picasso's Hommage to Apollinaire, in memory of the poet

Place de Furstenburg -- containing only a globed lamppost and some Paulownia trees--nothing much to recommend it but its postcard-perfect self; possibly the most charming square in Paris.

Place St-Sulpice with impressive Fontaine des Quatre-Eveques

St-Sulpice Church: large and beautiful Italianate building

Jardin du Luxumbourg

EATING AND DRINKING

Le Procope 13, rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie
Café de Flore 172, boulevard St-Germain

Brasserie Lipp 151, boulevard St-Germain
Les Deux Magots 6, place St-Germain-des-Prés

Wood-fired ovens of Poilâne at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi

Café Bonaparte, one block down rue Bonaparte toward the seine from les deux maggots.

La Palette 43 Rue de Seine; 33-1/43-26-68-15. You are treading the mosaic floors once brushed by Cézanne's and Braque's soles St-Germain art dealers come here and there are used palettes on the walls, given by Beaux-Arts students.

Lipp: 151, bd Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris. Tel.: 45 48 53 91. Open daily to 2 a.m. French cuisine.

Polidor: 41, rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 Paris. Tel.: 43 26 95 34. Family cooking from FF 100.

Dinner at Le Relais de l?Entrecote on rue St-Benoit This restaurant serves one meal for 20€. Steak with a special sauce french fries and a green salad with walnuts. They uphold the tradition of serving half the meal at a time.

Marco Polo restaurant with outside seating at 8, rue de Condé, on the corner of rue St-Sulpice, just two blocks from our hotel. The wait staff was very friendly and the pappardelle Serenissima (with cream sauce, ham, and mushrooms) was very good. The tiramisu was to die for. Dinner for 2 with main course, wine, dessert, and coffee was 53€.

I was quite surprised at how interesting I found the Musee de l'Armee to be. It houses a lot of military artifacts, weaponry and a room full of suits of armor (including child-size!), and Napoleon's horse.
I don't think we covered all the exhibits - WWII, etc. Need to go back.

The fountain at Place St Sulpice is huge, makes a grand backdrop for a photo of yourself or both of you.

I laughed that you picked up on the must-do for Musee Rodin (to line up the 3 sights for a photo op).

Otherwise, I haven't covered most of this itinerary, and it sounds like a great day.

travelnut, I just loved to sit in that lovely, peaceful garden and rest my weary legs. Timing counts for much in life. Luckily, a huge gang of school kids was departing just as I arrived. Thank the Lord for small favors.

Napoleon's Tomb * Amazing, I was not that interested at first, we walked from our hotel on rue Jacob to the Invalides, which is a good walk and interesting, through nice neighborhoods and a lovely church with a beautiful sculpture out in their garden that I will have to look up the name.
The Tomb of Marshall Foch is incredible. Napoleans tomb is a sight to see, even the floor is amazing!
Just across the street is the Musee Rodin, where you can admire the art both inside and out and just relax on a park bench and listen to the children playing nearby. *Look for Camille Claudels sculpture,The Wave..








I love rue de Bac, that is where the Maighte Gallery is. You can always find something affordable, my husband bought a Picasso lithograph there, many years ago. We got 4 Floral watercolors last trip. And the staff is very helpful and leaves you alone to enjoy looking as long as you wish.



Explore shops on Rue de Servres/Rue du Four towards St-Sulpice and adjacent Rues: du Dragon, Cherche Midi, and Bonaparte
*Mrs Degas will think she is in Shoe Heaven on rue Dragon! Cherche Midi has some intersting little jewelry shops, I always look for nice sweaters or something unique in the small boutiques.

Refreshments at Laduree. 21 rue Bonaparte (corner of rue Jacob and Bonaparte). Famous for macaroons.
* I don't think there is anything in Laduree or Angelinas that is Not Delicious!
Explore the Rue de Buci street market (except Mon) Hawkers compete for your attention; artfully-arranged stalls and great-smelling shops compete for your eye and appetite. Cafés lining the street are good for watching the show.
* Since this is at the end of rue Jacob, we would always buy a pastry to take back to the hotel room in the afternoon. Also a good spot to buy a lunch to take to the Luxembourg gardens for a bench picnic.
Musee Delaxcroix. 6 rue de Furstenberg. Closed Monday. Open 0945-1700. Museum Card. Last apartment and studio occupied by Delacroix from 1857 to 1863.Personal memorabilia and works of the artist.



Musée de la Monnaie. 11, quai de Conti. Closed Mon. Open: 1-6 p.m. Late Wed until 2100. Museum Card. Remarkable collection of coins and medals presenting the history of France from the Renaissance to the present. Stained glass windows from the Renaissance, paintings, engravings.

Buy soap at Fragonard a block west of Café Flore on the corner of rue des St-Pères.

La Maison Ivre, on elegant rue Jacob (dense with interesting antique shops and bookstores), sells handmade Provençal pottery. Small yellow and green olive bowls make pretty gifts.
*I have several of those olive bowls and a set of big yellow bowls. The old gentleman that works there is so nice and helpful. I love this store!

St-Germain-des-Prés is the oldest church in Paris
If you are lucky-there will be a concert one night to attend. Or just listen for the bells to ring in the evenings..sigh~

To the side of the church, in a small square, is Picasso's Hommage to Apollinaire, in memory of the poet

Place de Furstenburg -- containing only a globed lamppost and some Paulownia trees--nothing much to recommend it but its postcard-perfect self; possibly the most charming square in Paris.
*Very charming, good quiet spot to 'absorb' Paris .

Place St-Sulpice with impressive Fontaine des Quatre-Eveques

St-Sulpice Church: large and beautiful Italianate building
*Wonderful church and also a good spot for a concert if you can catch one.
Jardin du Luxumbourg

EATING AND DRINKING

Le Procope 13, rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie
Café de Flore 172, boulevard St-Germain

Brasserie Lipp 151, boulevard St-Germain
Les Deux Magots 6, place St-Germain-des-Prés
* we are there most afternoons, people watching and resting tired feet. I also like it for a light lunch or late breakfast. They will make you a good cup of hot chocolate late at night.

Wood-fired ovens of Poilâne at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi
*I love standing in the line that snakes out and down the sidewalk, waiting my turn to buy some bread that is all eaten by the time we get back to the hotel.
Dinner at Le Relais de l?Entrecote on rue St-Benoit This restaurant serves one meal for 20€. Steak with a special sauce french fries and a green salad with walnuts. They uphold the tradition of serving half the meal at a time.
*It is on rue Jacob at the end of rue Benoit, I seem to remember. Next to a Chinese restaurant.
Our favorite neighborhood bistro is Le Petit Benoit. Nothing fancy although they do have an interesting bathroom, lol, but it is fun to feel like you live in the neighborhood. The food is always good, very reasonably priced and we never fail to sit next to someone nice or interesting. If you go twice, the owner will shake your hand and treat you like an old friend.

Degas, you are doing this very well, how many days are you planning on being in Paris? I envy you

<<They uphold the tradition of serving half the meal at a time.>>

What on earth is this all about?

By the way, if you're looking for those yellow and green provençal bowls, the best prices can usually be found at La Vaissellerie, which has five shops in Paris. I was recently at the one on the Boul. Haussman, but I'm pretty sure there's at least one in the 6me, too. There's a TON of neat little things in those stores that make good gifts.

Scarlett, thanks for your input. I'm planning on 7 days this spring.

My approach this time will be to focus on one general area a day and do a mix of sightseeing, walking, photos, and shopping.

I've seen all the major stuff and want to slow the pace down a bit and not send so much time in the metro.

I like variety so my area list will have a wide range of things to pick from as the mood takes me. Hardest thing is laying it all out to take into consideration opening and closing days/times and best routes for walking and public transport.

I need a private driver to handle those petty details and also carry the LWs shopping bags. Maybe I'll hit the lottery this week.

StCirq, the blurb I read said a few hundred years back, people ate much slower and the food often got cold before they were finished and ready to leave. So to solve the problem, this place started serving your meal in two sperate portions and has continued that practice down to this day.

What else is there to do and see in this area?

Degas: Try Christian Constant, 37 rue d'Assas, for amazing chocolates; Comtesse du Berry at 1, rue de Sèvres for superb foie gras; Anne-Sophie Duval at 5 Quai Malaquais, and l'Arc en Seine, 31 rue de Seine, if fine art nouveau and deco things interest you; Bar de la Croix Rouge , 2 carrefour de la Croix Rouge, or Cosi at 54, rue de Seine, for wonderful sandwiches and salads; Bistro des Augustins, 39 quai des Grands Augustins or Le Sauvignon at 80, rue des Sts-Pères, if you want to try a nice wine bar.

Make sure you leave yourself enough time in that busy schedule to just sit and enjoy the experience of being in Luxembourg Gardens.

StCirq, thanks so much for the great feedback and specific recommendations -this area is looking better and better.

HowardR, I plan to rest my weary feet in the gardens, perhaps with an expensive and expansive picinic even if I can't lay my big body on the grass!

I seem to remember that Christian Constant has opened a new cafe somewhere in the area of Le Violin D'Ingres also.
If you need excellent, get dressed up and go make a pig of yourself dining recos,
Le Violin D'Ingres
Helene Darroze..
A small, very small Italian place on the Ille St-Louis, Castifiore. Owned by two men, one English, one American, both very nice and welcoming.

And, yes, Degas, the gendarmes do enforce the "keep of the grass" edict. However, it still is possible to enjoy a picnic lunch there.

Degas, you have the right idea to concentrate on one area and not spend so much time in the Metro. I have been to Paris 7 times, and have still not completely (to MY satisfaction anyway) covered the 6th. I'm printing this itinerary and placing it in my files. BTW, I could spend all day in Bon Marche - my favorite of the Parisian shopping meccas.

Degas,

>I've seen all the major stuff and want to slow the pace down a bit and not send so much time in the metro.<

Thanks for your posts. You are planning my next trip for me.

ira, glad to do it. Some of my best work is done for free. That's why I fly economy class and play the lottery.

Seriously, please add your expertise and help make this list better.

I don't think of part of that area as St-Germain (ie, the part near Invalides) and Luxembourg isn't East of some of this stuff (like Buci, rue de Seine), but I think I get the general idea you want to cover St-Germain and into the 7th to Invalides.

I am very impressed with your notes and planning, you could be a tour guide! And you have a great list of things. Just a few things for your notes and my personal preferences, although you may know these --

I think the Maillol Museum is wonderful, it's one of my favorites in Paris (as I like contemporary art and sculpture). If you are lucky, they'll have a good exhibit in addition to their regular holdings. However, I think the premier works there are Maillol's own works, rather than the other paintings. It's a very nice small collection, in any case.

Personally, I'll admit I have not been struck by the Laduree lightning and don't like their macaroons that well. Perhaps it's where I'm from, but to me, a macaroon is a chewy coconut thing, and these Laduree macaroons are just lightweight airy cookies. Maybe that's the French definition of macaroon. Anyway, you may like those macaroons and have enough places to shop or eat, but I much prefer a visit to the chocolatier Debauve and Gallois in the 7th on rue des Saints Peres (just north of bd St-Germain). I consider this shop an experience in itself, it is so beautiful and the salesgirls so helpful and nice. They wrap your chocolates in wonderful gift wrapping which is beautiful. I think they are among the top chocolatiers in Paris and have a long history in the business, and being the chocolatier for royalty.

those are the main things that came to my mind. One of my favorite jewelry shops is Les Nereides on rue du Four. This is another shop where the salesgirls just go out of their way to be helpful and are so friendly. If you want something a little different that someone probably won't get back home at Walmart, stop in here to browse or buy gifts. It's not traditional or something I'd buy for my mother, though. Not too expensive, they have some great sales.

This thread prompted me to go digging around in my library and unearth my old (copyright 1975) copy of "Pariswalks," by Alison and Sonia Landes. Degas, if you can get your hands on a copy of this I think it would greatly enhance your jaunt through the St-Germain area. You might need TWO full days, though. The book (and the chapter on St-Germain) is full of little anecdotes (it's very unusual for Parisian streets to be named after Old Testament patriarchs - do you know how the Rue Jacob got its name?)and directions to secret passageways and hidden courtyards. Although some of the shops mentioned are bound to be there no longer, the architectural information is probably still valid, as are the anecdotes.

christina, I knew you would catch me on my slightly off-center geography. Still, you see my central focus.

Thanks - I was a trip planner/tour guide of sorts in a previous life, escorting demanding government bigwigs on trips to Asia and the Middle East. I expect that stress took a few years off my life, but it did teach me to pay attention to details.

The more I look at this list, the more I think it will take two days to do justice to it, even if you are a fast shopper.

Hello
Until now I have been ignorant of the Musee Malliol--thanks to you and Christina for bringing it to my attention.

Ditto, Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal.

Here's a bit of trivial correction:

I believe that PART of St Germain is the oldest bit of church in Paris.
The oldest complete church is St-Julien-le-Pauvre.

Also, St Suplice church has one of the largest pipe organs in the world--there may be a concert scheduled. It's interior is larger than Notre Dame's, and there are Delacroix murals (since you mentioned interest in Delacroix.)

and here's an article about the oldest tree and the oldest houses in Paris
http://www.wfi.fr/metropole/1999/414/414oldie.html

oops. spelling errors on
Maillol and its

StCirq, thanks for the book recommendation. Something like that is needed to add a little spice to an already pretty good mix of things to do and see.

Yes, two full days of musuems, walking and shopping - and you would still have to move pretty steady with no extended stops.

I guess the real solution is to just rent an apartment for a month so you can really appreciate so many fine things.

The site of St-Germain des Près has had religious significance since Roman times, when there was a statue of Isis on the spot where the church stands today.
The first church was built there in 544, to house sacred relics the Clovingians stole from the Visigoths.In the 800s, Norsemen repeatedly sacked the church to try to recover the relics, but the relics had been returned to Spain. The church was left in ruins until the 11th century, when it was rebuilt. The central bell tower is still standing and is the oldes "church structure" in Paris.

Pierre de Montreuil, who built La Sainte-Chapelle, built the delicate Chapel of the Virgin within the abbey of St-Germain, beginning in 1245. You can still see remnants of the chapel on two walls of the garden.

elaine, thanks for the feedback. I'm adding interesting snippets of info to the list as we go.

Try this website for The Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal

http://www.chapellenotredamedelameda...e.com/EN/a.asp

Degas, the renovated and covered Marché Saint Germain (rue Lobineau 6e, metro Mabillon), just north of the eastern end of the Eglise Saint Germain des Prés, has a huge array of produce and prepared food.

I know you hate to spend your hard-earned money in fancy restaurants.

degas, here's another one: Madeleine Gely. 218 bd. St-Germain. Metro: Rue du Bac is the queen of walking sticks. François Mitterrand used to buy here and it also has dazzling range of umbrellas.

Just the thing for a dashing man about town.

I "stole" this one from barb's recent trip report:

Lunch at Cafe Mabillon at the corner of Rue de Seine and Blvd. St. Germain was another perfect spot for a little lunch and people watching. Very tasty Croque "jeune homme" and a 1/2 bottle of chardonnay Terrier 20.30 E., but again worth it to watch the maddening crowds.

Or for a man dashing about town:)

Degas, on another thread, I took the liberty of saying that 'I know you'..please forgive my presumptuousness~ ((F))

Scarlett, you could never, never do anything wrong in my blood-shot eyes! I'm going to buy a paint by good numbers set this week and get started on your Xmas present.

I've exercised great self-control and refrained from jumping in with both big, flat feet on "that other thread."

The nerve and unmidagated gall of some
low-life ..... .

:)

When you go to St. Sulpice - don't forget to look for the button on the wall which turns the spotlight on the de la Croix.

We also loved Cafe Mabillon. Kick back kinda place - with a lot of energy. (Does that make sense?) Great people watching place - we liked it better than Deux Magots, etc...

If your day in the 6eme happens to be a Sunday, there is a very lively Mass at L'Eglise St Germain des Pres on Sunday evenings that is especially for students/young professionals. We enjoyed it very much.

The procope is ok for it's history. I liked dining on the wrought iron balcony, but the food is not very good.

Here's another vote for the Café Mabillon. Years ago, when we asked Parisian friends what their favorite place to sit and people-watch in Paris was, they said Café Mabillon, and we've been dévotées ever since.
We actually never ate there, so I can't vouch for the food, but it's a great place to sit and watch the Parisian world go by.

Dear Degas,
concerning your trip in St-Germain Area, I can advise you to go to the hotel Central Saint Germain: http://www.centralstgermain.com/index.english.html . I went there a few months ago because it was the less expensive of this area (the hotels are quite expensive there). It is comfortable and clean.
You're right, this area is really interesting and fantastic during the evening. I think some music groups are playing music.
Good choice!!!
Have a nice trip!

Thank you degas for starting this post; dh and I are leaving friday for a week visit, we are staying at relais christine and intended to have a relaxed week so I am printing this thread...... We also would like to see a few plays in smaller theaters, is it safe to wait until we get there to reserve ? We will take 2 day trips, one in Fontainebleau and I'm still undecided about the 2nd one, any recommendations?
Relais Christine has a spa, has anyone ever used it or is there a spa in that area that is worth trying ? thanks

Thanks again for all the additional info, both big and small - this thing is really starting to shape up.

Glad to see some folks are all ready finding it useful. Plan to post one today on the Marais area.

Degas: Le Mabillon was my favorite early afternoon lunch, wine and outdoor cafe/people watching experience. The food was good and the service was exceptional. It was a comfortable spot to relax among (mostly) locals. (This is as of my trip to Paris in February & March of 2003).

My favorite dinner spot in the neighborhood was/is(?)located just east of the Buci market on rue St Andres des Artes (about 2 blocks east of rue Dauphine). My bills say "Latin St Andres". This is a delightful, bustling bistrot. The food was not the best I've ever eaten, but the atmosphere and efflorescence make me smile, even today. This place, too, was packed with locals. After I'd been away from Paris for a week and then returned, the head server waved to me emphatically as I walked by on the other side of the street. Of course I ate there again that night. These two restaurants are like "coming home".

I'm looking forward to your plans for the Marais. Thanks. Beth

Your list is absolutely wonderful. The area you discuss is my very favorite in Paris. We always stay in St-Germaine and I thought we had covered nearly everything but I am newly inspired. A few of our favorites although most are covered here: the Cafe Bonaparte on the Place St-Germaine del Pres, behind Deux Magots, is wonderful for breakfast and the best for people watching; Luxembourg Gardens is lovely on early Sunday morning - and people were allowed on some of the grassy areas when we were there in May; we still love L'Epi Dupin for dinner even though some think it is too crowded; and don't miss the always clever and provocative display windows at Sonia Rykiel (sp) on the corner of Rue des St.Peres and Blvd. St-Germaine. I will print your list for our May trip.

Degas - I also plan to do one area a day while in Paris, and have copied both of your walks for use in November. They look great. Anyone have suggestions on the best walk for a Sunday - Latin Quarter or St. Germain or another area?

Hi Donna,

I was wondering how to post this when you came up with "Anyone have suggestions on the best walk for a Sunday..".

Make reservations for Sunday Brunch at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre (http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/jandre/, visit the museum, take a walk through the Parc Monceau and the surrounding neighborhood (on rue Daru is the Russian cathedral Saint Alexander Nevsky, open (I think) at 3:00 PM), then down Ave Hoche to the Arc de Triomphe. From there, it's down the Champs Elysee to Place Concord.

Ira - The Musee Jacquemart-Andre does look interesting. I can see I am going to have to do a search on the best "walking maps" so I can follow these great suggestions. Thanks, Donna