Paris La Défense
 

Most people never go there if they are not on business. Most visitors don't even know what it is unless they asked someone "what is that mess in the distance behind the Arc de Triomphe?"

Frankly, for somebody with a little extra time (1 or 2 hours is enough), I think it's worth taking a closer look. And did you know that the shopping mall is open every Sunday?

Here is my little report about it all: http://tinyurl.com/2b8ztrj

Hi K,

Good report. Thanks for sharing.

This is a project that I have always wished they had not undertaken.

A shantytown has so much more quaint charm.

>There is a lot of monumental sculpture at La Défense, like this Miro, or the Calder across the way.<

I would trade both of them for the carousel. :)

>The old statue of "La Défense Nationale" has been maintained at its original location. It looks kind of silly, ............<

Compared to the huge thumb?

>You can see the Eiffel Tower from here.<

Is there anywhere in Paris from where you cannot see the ET?
(Another eyesore that should have been taken down a hundred years ago.)

((I))

Ira, so you think the offices and corporate headquarters should have been built inside Paris? ;)

Kerouc - thanks for the report and images. We went out there a few years ago in the evening and actually had an enjoyable time wandering around at night enjoying the lights on the new buildings. We amy do it again in the daylight now - thanks

I spent a morning there last fall. I couldn't get anyone to go with me.

I thought it was basically fascist in the way that a lot of French architecture is fascist, that is, designed to impress you with the greatness and power of the state and your own smallness in comparison.

This kind of stuff is rife in Paris, both old and new, but much of it has been softened by time and by lots of ornament, detail, and experience.

I also didn't see any single buildings that stood out to me as great architecture in the way that some of Jean Nouvelle's buildings do, despite the somewhat grotesque contradictions in their siting. I was amused by the attempt to humanize the space by having a traditional brasserie complete with traditional tables and awnings tucked into a corner.

I took lots of pictures of people in the space, none of them particularly comfortable looking, and of course of the armed guards with machine pistols under the grand arch.

What I just wrote is observation, not criticism. It is too early to tell which of these projets will turn out to have been a mistake. Beaubourg is not aging well to my eye, and the Bibiliotheque National is generally recognized as a horror.

I'll go back, and I really wouldn't hesitate to stay in a business hotel there and commute to the centre ville. But I would have to do it alone. My wife wouldn't do it on a bet.

Kerouac: Many thanks for this armchair tour of La Defense. In my several trips to Paris, I've never been out there, but am intrigued, and you have given a very thorough account of the area. Terrific report and photos.

thanks for posting the pics.
Great idea to concentrate modern buildings in one location ( on Metro, too).
I stopped there years ago... looks much better now.

Thanks for the report. This is at least the second time recently I've seen photos of La Defense and environs posted. It's such an interesting city planning strategy and solution. I am glad they put the high-rise buildings away from central Paris. I can't imagine Paris now if they hadn't. (Also glad that some of that 70s architecture will be replaced.)

Thanks kerouac-this brings back many memories for me-I lvied in the Marais and commuted out to La Defense (to IBM) although luckily most days I could work from home in my bedroom slippers. One thing a lot of folks may not know that La Defense is divided into villages and that there are actually a fair amount of people who do live there-although it wouldn't be my first choice.

One strong memory I have is of riding the escalator up from the metro one morning and seeing a young guy in front of me using his cell phone to take video up the back of the skirts of the young women who would get on the escalator! I watched him all the way to the top and then "accidentally" used my laptop case to knock his phone all the way back down the stairs-and saw it shatter at the bottom-so all in all a great start to the morning. :)

Your photos made this section of Paris far more interesting than I ever thought it would be. The buildings are beautiful.

Thank you for your photo report and insights, Kerouac. I have only been there for the Christmas market and to shop at Auchon, so this perspective of such a photogenic area is very special.

Leaving for Paris in 3 days! But who's counting.. Thanks Kerouac for the photos. our 8th trip and haven't seen it yet. You have me intridged with La Defense. I shall try it. Staying next to Nations.Trying to remember, does M1 go to la Defense?

Thanks so much for all these pictures. I really enjoyed myself when I went out there a few years ago. There is an Auchan supermarket there in that mall - with all kinds of interesting sections (middle eastern spices and foods, for instance.)

When I am back in Paris in the spring I will definitely go back to La Defense.

Thanks for the nice photo essay - will prob never visit - but nice to go there in V.Reality.

Very interesting photo essay - nice to see close up what I have seen only in the distance.

Thank you kerouac, fascinating, and as I can't afford to visit again from Australia the photos help feed my Paris obsession! Your photo essays are always enlightening and wonderful.

I havce never been to nor have I even been tempted to visit La Defense. Thanks for the excellent pictures. I will continue to avoid voluntary real life exposure to architectural monstrosity. People seem so out-of-place in that place.

Yes, nicerue50, it's line 1 that goes to La Défense. But if you don't mind paying 2.30€, you can take the RER from Nation and get there in just a few minutes.

I think I was 18 when I first visited La Défense while I was in Paris with my girlfriend. It was a big "wow" factor to step outside the underground RER station. I think I felt a bit like stepping into the plot and scenery of Tati's "Playtime".

"Architectural monstrosity"? I don't know. People used the exact same phrase to describe the Eiffel tower when it was built, if I am not totally wrong :-)

Yes, people have widely varying opinions of modern architecture and some seem to be completely against everything. I always wonder in such cases what they would like to see instead, assuming that they admit that there is a need for big office buildings in the 21st century. Greco-Roman temple style? Haussmann buildings as big as the Pentagon?

Kerouac, I`m curious if you have any insight into how a typical French office worker`s office or cubicle would compare to a similarly situated American`s. I know there are millions of variations, so it`s not possible to answer comprehensively, but just curious if you had any personal knowledge of the subject.

Thanks Kerouac for showing La Defense in such a good manner.

Living in The Netherlands we visit Paris quite regularly, and I most say that almost every time we also visit La Defense. Especially for the large (and recently renovated) shopping mall. It is just handy to do the shopping we want in one place, so we can use the rest of the time for sightseeing etc.

There is also a large hypermarche form Auchan there (although not the biggest and/or most beautiful one). For thos of you who like to visit a large french supermarket (or hypermarket as the say).

WillTravel, there are as many variations as in the U.S. and in any case the modern office environment has been copied from the American model, from 'open space' to the offices with glass walls, to the executive floor, etc. Inside Paris is where offices can get really quirky, particularly those created from converted residential buildings. At the company where I work now, we have almost always been in modern offices (5 moves since I started with the company), but the very first one was an old apartment on the Champs Elysées and there was even still a bathtub in the restroom!

Terrific and very interesting work. Thank you.

Kerouac, one year i got points via amex for a free 3 night stay in Paris, BUT the only hotel available on the dates we wanted were in La defense, we took a punt and enjoyed a different perspective of Paris. The train really only took a short while and whilst i would stay there again (been there done that now)it was great to see another side to this beautiful city... thanks for reminding me.

Hi K,

>Ira, so you think the offices and corporate headquarters should have been built inside Paris? <

Of course not, the city would have sunk. :)

I would have moved the business center to somewhere not visible from Paris, a la Louis XIV moving to Versailles.

((I))

>...all in all a great start to the morning<\\
great story, jp.
.................................................
K asks,

>I always wonder in such cases what they would like to see instead,....<

The Chrysler Building isn't bad.

There are many smaller buildings in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles that could have been the bases for larger office buildings.

The problem with La Defense, as it is with innumerable downtowns in the US, is that it is nothing more than a Leggo Set.

((I))

Hi K,

Should one desire to go visit La Defense, can you get there on a regular metro or bus ticket?

((I))

I enjoyed going to the top of the Grande Arche de la Defense for the view straight down the Champs-Elysees in the distance and straight to the Tuileries - a straight line - i believe Defense Arch being in straight line with Carousil Arch in Tuileries by the Louvre.

The Defense Arch was one of Mitterand's Grands Project to leave his mark on the capital and to infuse it with more modern contemporary yet still imposing structures like this.

Ira - one regular metro ticket will take you there on the old metro line - #1 i believe but if you take the faster RER i think you pay more - according to distance.

You can also get to La Defense by train - train from St-Lazare station that goes to Versailles Rive Gauch station - a short enough walk from the chateau. Thus you can easily stop off at Defense after doing Versailles during the day and then transfer there to the metro or RER into Paris proper.

Kerouac:
Tahanks for your pictures.We have been 5 times to Paris and 3 to La Defense.We really enjoyed it each time,and will return in 2 years.Why not enjoy both the old and the new in the most beautiful city?

Thoroughly enjoyable photo essay Kerouac. Thanks for sharing.

Thans, K! Great photos. We are always planning a visit but have not made it yet. Maybe October for sure. I always wonder if that is a Thumb or a Middle finger!

Yes, Ira, a normal metro ticket will take you to La Défense on metro line 1. I decided to take the deluxe route on Friday because I wanted a photo of the RER station, so the RER cost me 2.30€ (or was it 2.35€?).

PalenQ (and others), I am sorry to report that the roof of the Grande Arche is closed "until further notice." Apparently there is some sort of technical problem, but also they have never been happy with the way it is set up. There is a big expo zone there -- and of course the wonderful view from the roof -- but the expo zone has never been satisfactory and I think they are looking for some new ideas.

I can remember when we took an "organized" tour of France some years ago and the whole thing began in Paris and the tour company used a hotel in the area. We honestly, and very foolishly, thought we were out in the hinterlands and I suppose we were given the time it took to get from there to the "oh so touristy" attractions such as the Eiffel Tower, etc., etc.

Thanks for the report which I found interesting. I honestly don't understand why some people look at buildings that are bigger than they are...even an outhouse is bigger than most folks..and fall into the 'intimidated' mode.

kerouac - yes i remember being not-plussed with the exhibit area on the roof top of the Gr Arche - seemed real plastic - but hope they will at least reopen the viewing - perhaps a nice cafe?

We'll keep our fingers crossed. The Grande Arche deserves something nice up there.

AJPeabody,

Would these same buildings still be architectural monstrosities if they were located in Hong Kong or Shanghai?

Just wondering...

I will continue to avoid voluntary real life exposure to architectural monstrosity.>

so you cannot leave home i guess?

i rather like La Defense and the new city - actually The City like in London - the new business and financial center (i think was the plan in actuality i'm not sure?) and the clean box-like structures - i at times get tired of say Italian cities where everything looks the same ole same ole - no daring to put new contemporary architecture in them - even if it is not the award-winning type stuff one may well have expected of Paris - one of the art and architect capitals of the world.

Jean Nouvel designed two different buildings for La Défense.

The first one was the "Tour sans fin" planned in 1989 but never built.

http://t4deliriousnygroupe12.files.w...05/image11.jpg

The second one is the "Tour signal" which does not yet have financing due to the economic situation.

http://projets-architecte-urbanisme....ean-nouvel.jpg

My, my, my. I was speaking of La Defense as a potential tourist attraction I might consider touring when I am next in Paris. Of course you need big buildings if you need a lot of office space, but that's not my own idea of what to fly over an ocean to see. I am glad that there is only one big bad glass monstrosity in Paris proper. Who would like more than one Tour Montparnasse?