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loisco May 6th, 2007 02:23 AM

paris flea market ?
 
In Paris now...i want to go to a large flea market..there is one mentioned at the end of a metro line...has anyone been there?..Or any other recommendations?..looking for gifts, etc.

My book mentions Marche aux Puces de St. Ouen...

Thanks..

Rhea58 May 6th, 2007 02:43 AM

Haven't been there but the station
is Garibaldi on Line 13 in Saint-Denis Universite direction which you can pick up at Gare St-Lazare station
and opens at 9 am - hope this helps.

kappa May 6th, 2007 02:55 AM

> at the end of a metro line ..

That's Line Nr4 and the station is Porte de Clignancourt.

hopscotch May 6th, 2007 02:57 AM


Been there. Haggle, haggle, haggle, h.., etc.

What kind of gifts? Maybe try BHV?


Cimbrone May 6th, 2007 03:06 AM

The market you mention, loisco, is indeed at the end of the Clignancourt metro line. It's huge and one of my favorite things to do in Paris. If you go, do not think that the t-shirts and cds being sold are what you're after. You must pass all the junk, go under the highway overpass, and then you'll see it. You can just ask "ou est le brocante?" if you feel lost.

Another option for Sunday morning is the more manageable Port de Vanves market at the metro stop of the same name.

If you like antiques--china, paintings, furniture, knick-knacks, these are definitely worth seeing.

loisco May 6th, 2007 03:15 AM

So where is BHV? ...

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2007 03:38 AM

Near Hotel de Ville on Rue de Rivoli.

I wrote a long discussion of my visit to that flea market in this report if you want to scroll down to the Paris section; there are links to a map of the market.



http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34894706



I am also interested in the Vanves market if anyone can give information.

Toupary May 6th, 2007 04:01 AM

ekscrunchy,

The market at Porte de Vanves (Métro of same name) is rather more manageable than Saint-Ouen, but doesn't have as wide a range of offerings. There are some interesting things, though. It can be done in a couples of hours, whereas you could spend the day at Saint-Ouen without seeing everything.

loisco,

If you are now in Paris, why not go to the big (once a year) brocante at Bastille? I think it's on until the 14th. I think there are about 375 exhibitors, and the theme this year is arts of the table (although there are plenty of other things), so you might find small items that would make a nice gift.

GSteed May 6th, 2007 04:01 AM

Be aware that much 'flea market' merchandise is counterfeit. Countries to the east have factories busy making knock-offs for these places. Perfume and cologne are two such items. This from a report by German TV DW.

Toupary May 6th, 2007 04:03 AM

Perfume and cologne and that sort of thing are found at the beginning, before you enter into the "real" marché aux puces. I would never buy perfume on the street -- there are plenty of legitimate buys on it in Paris. These are the same people selling the so-called Louis Vuitton wallets. Caveat emptor!

loisco May 6th, 2007 04:06 AM

EK loved your report. it's a saver. And to the person who told me about the brocante at the Marais...is that at the Bastille?...how would I find out..?..thanks


ekscrunchy May 6th, 2007 04:14 AM

Thanks, Toupary. We were thinking about visiting Vanves on a Saturday morning.

Also, here is a question: Years ago I read an article in a design magazine about a market outside Paris that specialized in kitchenware..antique items related to food, kitchens, etc. I think one had to take a train there. I can't remember where I read this, nor anything else about the market. It is possible that it is only held once a year....does this ring a bell for anyone??

Toupary May 6th, 2007 04:22 AM

ekscrunchy, good plan. I've only been to Porte de Vanves on Sunday, and I'm told there are more vendors on Saturday.

loisco, the brocante is at Place de la Bastille, 4-13 May, 11 am to 7 pm, open to 10 pm on Thursday the 10th. The website is www.organisation-joel-garcia.fr, but I just went to it, and it doesn't really give much info beyond what I've already told you.

Gretchen May 6th, 2007 04:47 AM

I have pretty much given up on the March aux Puces for anything affordable. It is just too expensive and I can find the exact same things in the US for much less.
And the poster who mentioned the counterfeits--that is not the real market. Those are the African trinket sellers that surround the Marche. Just push past those to get to the shops and "mall" type buildings. It is HUGE.
I love poking through the Vanves market on Saturday. And if there is a large brocante in town, definitely go. There is often one somewhere on a week-end. Look in Pariscope.

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2007 04:56 AM

If you go to the St. Ouen market, get there early to avoid the crowds. I agree with Gretchen, prices are not exactly at bargain level, to say the least!

loisco May 6th, 2007 05:43 AM

I think we were at that market in the Bastille last year...I believe it was just antiques...but we shall see. You are all giving me good ideas. I love Paris..

Toupary May 6th, 2007 05:54 AM

Saint-Ouen is not wall-to-wall bargains. However, the prices are usually fair, and many will bargain. If you are an American, they will adjust the prices in consideration of the duty you will have to pay.

If you are thinking of serious buying, do your homework. The more you know in advance, the better your chances of coming away with a souvenir that is out of the ordinary.

I love it out there. It is a community, and on Sunday, you will see dealers, surrounded by friends, family, and their dogs, eating Sunday dinner at a table set up in the middle of their showroom or stand.

It's a fun way to spend a Saturday or Sunday, and it is not all high end. Wander around, and you may find something you love and that will remind you of Paris for years to come.

With that glowing recommendation, I have to make my disclaimer. No, I don't work for them! In fact, I am on the other side, and have to keep up to make sure my clients don't end up with buyers remorse.

jody May 6th, 2007 07:04 AM

The brocante at Bastille is worth it just for the food they serve in various tents!

You can't miss it, there will be a sea of white tents across from the column. As well as the inside area, it goes up and down both sides of the Seine.

We always time our fall trips for the brocante in Nov.

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2007 07:07 AM

That brocante sounds amazing! Would the Paris residents here happen to know if there are any interesting brocante markets scheduled for the weekend of May 25-26? Thanks!

monicapileggi May 6th, 2007 07:25 AM

Glad I found this. I head to Paris in 2 days!! I'll have to check out the brocante market at Bastille.

Monica ((F))

Toupary May 6th, 2007 07:30 AM

ekscrunchy, not offhand, but let me check into it. I'll get back to you.

Toupary May 6th, 2007 07:37 AM

eks - so far, I haven't come up with anything unusual, but there is the brocante at Place d'Aligre.

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2007 07:54 AM

So Vanves and Place d'Aligre on Friday (?) and Vanves on Saturday morning?

Thanks so much for your help, Toupary. We are very excited about getting back to Paris, even if for only a few days!

Toupary May 6th, 2007 08:09 AM

ekscrunchy, Place d'Aligre has the market during the week, but I think most of the brocanteurs are there on Sat & Sun. Porte de Vanves is Saturday and Sunday, but I think Saturday is better.

I hope you have a wonderful visit. If I hear of anything in the meantime, I'll let you know.

Cimbrone May 6th, 2007 08:17 AM

ekscrunchy, I think you're thinking of the Foire national a la brocante et au jambon in Chatou, outside of Paris. If you google it, many sites will come up. Famous not only for brocante but also the cooked pork (?!) that is for sale. I believe it's held twice per year, for sure each March.

USNR May 6th, 2007 08:21 AM

Been to a lot of those so-called markets. A waste of time, a waste of money, a seedy-looking crowd, crappy merchandise. Better to poke around in genuine antique stores, scattered all over Paris. The mall-like place near the Ecole Militaire metro stop offers no bargains either.

Toupary May 6th, 2007 08:29 AM

USNR

I'm not even sure how to respond to that post, other than to say that when you generalize, you sound as if you don't know what you're talking about.

I don't know what you mean by "genuine" antique stores. If, by the "mall" near Ecole Militaire, you mean Village Suisse, I can assure you that there are a number of dealers there who have high-quality merchandise. Bargains? Probably not, but blame that on the dollar. Most antique dealers in Paris will tell you that business has fallen since the war in Iraq.

Cimbrone May 6th, 2007 08:30 AM

USNR, are you sure you made it past the t-shirt vendors?

One does not have to spend a fortune at these markets. I have found treasured items--jewelry, china, paintings--for anywhere from $2 to $100. Really special things. If you're looking for an authentic Louis IV chair, that's another story. And the antiques stores in Central Paris are MUCH more expensive, as a rule, than the brocante markets. Everyone should go at least once and decide for himself.

ekscrunchy May 6th, 2007 08:37 AM

If USNR can make a comment such as that, he obviously has not been to the St. Ouen market. To my knowledge, many antique dealeers with shops in central Paris also have shops at the market. Seedy? I think not.

Toupary, thank you...

Cimbrone..that is correct. Thank you so much..I have been trying to recall this for years!! That sounds like a reason to make a trip in March or September.

://www.sncao-syndicat.com/sncao/chatou/foire/acc.htm




Toupary May 6th, 2007 08:38 AM

Cimbrone, I think you hit the nail on the head.

If USNR is willing to spend €400,000 on a lovely Louis XIV desk, I would be more than happy to connect him with a dealer -- "genuine," no less. For the rest of us, there are wonderful little treasures to be found, often in brocantes.

I'm not sure what he means by seedy-looking people -- perhaps that Paris is full of people who don't look like him?

Cimbrone May 6th, 2007 09:00 AM

Glad to help ekscrunchy. I wouldn't mind making it there myself someday. Chatou, by the way, is the town where the restaurant in Renoir's painting can be found. You know the one, with all the happy people on the cafe terrace? The still functioning restaurant is called La Maison Fournais.

Oh, and I really meant Louis XIV. I hate to think what a Louis IV chair would cost! :)

lacohn May 6th, 2007 09:08 AM

bookmarking

jody May 6th, 2007 09:21 AM

The large brocantes have "genuine" antiques dealers from all over France, not just Paris

The next Foire de brocante et aux jambons is in Sept in Chatou

http://www.sncao-syndicat.com/sncao/.../foire/acc.htm

BAstille brocante dates

http://www.organisation-joel-garcia.fr/

You can send for free tickets to the Joel Garcia exhibits.

Gretchen May 6th, 2007 09:24 AM

I am definitely not agreeing with USNR--I think he missed the real St.Ouen market. And yes, most of these shops there are little "outposts" of central Paris antique shops. In the 20's, when it really WAS a flea market, my parents bought many things there--Mother said she came home and washed them in Clorox! And in past years I have bought many things there--and found absolutely wonderful things to just admire--like a full size wooden carving of the famous Indian motorcycle!! Things you just don't see a lot of!! AND if you have a specific collectible to look for, it is fun in the hunt. But it has just gotten too expensive for me.
Do check Pariscope for brocantes around town. We went to one at Pl Auteuil once with great luck, and another in Montmartre and at the Cemetery. I'd love to hit that Bastille one!

Toupary May 6th, 2007 09:26 AM

The one at Bercy Village is very good. Next one in January.

Christina May 6th, 2007 09:42 AM

I don't know what USNR was referring to, but I think it was those roving "flea markets" and brocante fairs you find all over France, not St Ouen in particular.

I halfway agree with him, and yes, I have been to St Ouen and Vanves and a lot of the others. I don't agree with the seedy-looking crowd part, though, but I do think (other than St Ouen) they have a lot of junk and are a waste of time. They can have some cheap clothing, if you are in the market for that, though, and I bought a decent cheap watch at one once when my watch's battery ran down so I needed a new one. It was just some cheap watch made in Japan, but at 5 euro wasn't a bad deal (might sell for US$10 in the US at some discount store). Some are good for food, cheap clothing or bags, etc. But as for antiques, St Ouen isn't really a flea market as many people think of that term, it's just an area with antique stores.

I thought Vanves was a complete waste of time and did have a lot of real junk without any redeeming value. How many times can you see these vendors with old postcards, old perfume bottles, etc. I didn't buy a single thing at either one, however --

I do not find shopping very enjoyable in itself and don't consider that a hobby or good pastime. I don't like buying things just to buy things and spend money, and don't like to acquire a lot of things I don't need. So, just browsing tables of junk that is nothing special isn't that appealing to me. There are expensive, good antiques at St Ouen, but I'm not in the market for those, and the casual tourist usually isn't either. You really have to know what you are doing and be willing to spend a lot for that.

I have never thought the crowds were seedy at any of these, though, just regular folks. I thought Aligre had the absolute worst junk -- they had clothes there with stains on them, faded, etc.

Rhea58 May 6th, 2007 10:21 AM

loisco, Le BHV is at 14 rue du Temple
in the 4th
www.bhv.fr

Cimbrone May 6th, 2007 10:50 AM

Christina, I agree. To buy things just to buy things is silly. But if I need dessert plates, they might as well be 100 year old Belgian china from the Vanves market!

crepes_a_go_go May 6th, 2007 10:51 AM

I wish I were in Tours this weekend for their annual Marche Aux Puces which sets up the entire length of la rue Colbert. This is s true flea market with all vendors just local city residents selling things from their homes. When I was there in 2004 I got some wonderful items like lace curtains from Bretagne, a 1950s tin cannister set and some old Faience bowls, all for very, very little money.

Cimbrone May 6th, 2007 10:56 AM

Funny you should mention Tours. One of my most treasured finds is a very old religious medal from Mont St. Michel, which was hiding amid a jumble of items at a brocante market in Tours. I still remember what it cost--10 francs.


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