We spent only 2 1/2 days in Sydney: Ferry ride up the Paramatta River to a koala sanctuary (up close and personal with koalas & kangaroos), drive back to city, lunch cruise of the Harbour through all the little bays and out to North Head and return (gorgeous - what homes!), afternoon tour of Olympic sight with private guides at the Swim Center and Main Stadium, home to our hotel (Nikko on Darling Harbour), change clothes and off to the Opera for dinner and to hear the Sydney Symphony (what a treat!). End of day one and off to bed.
Water ferry from Darling Harbour to The Rocks where we strolled the Saturday open air market, toured the historical buildings, got a didgeridoo lesson, gawked at street performers (stripping unicyclist?) shopped and dined. Toured through Circular Quay, nearby museums, and then took the city bus to the Queen Victoria Building - not so much for the shopping as to see the magnificent clocks perform. A taxi that evening to Doyles on Watson Bay for dinner with a water taxi home. A surprising display of fireworks over the Opera House capped a great day.
The final morning we toured the Sydney Aquarium before heading to the airport to fly to Adelaide.
We were in Adelaide for 5 days. While my husband worked (alas!) I toured the city including a wonderful guided gourmet's tour of the Central Market, took a day flight (in an 8 seat plane) and tour to Kangaroo Island, a day trip on The Wine Train (
www.barossawinetrain.com.au) into the Barossa Valley, visited museums and the Botanical Gardens, etc. I saw a spectacular troupe of Aboriginal dancers perform on the street in front of Parliament one afternoon. Treats come in the most unexpected places, don't they? We dined at McGill's Estate at the Penfold Winery, The Universal Wine Bar on Rundle St. (THE best! - we ate there 3 times) and Nediz on Hutt Street (spectacular!).
Off to Cairns for our Barrier Reef Experience. Since Lizard Island was closed and we were fearful of box jelly fish, we decided to take the Coral Princess cruise (
www.coralprincess.com.au) - a three day live aboard from Cairns to Townsville. From this wonderful boat with nice "staterooms" and great dining we visited Thetford Reef, Sudbury Cay, Nathan Reef, Dunk Island, cruised the Hinchinbrook channel, bar-b-qued on Pelorus Island and arrived in Townsville sorry to leave. The ship only holds 45 people and we forged the most wonderful friendships in this short time. The crew couldn't have been more delightful in a very down to earth way. We snorkeled and dove on some incredible reefs and I shall never forget our GBR experience.
Short flight from Townsville to Cairns (we weren't too impressed with Cairns in general) where a car met us for the drive to Silky Oaks Lodge in the Daintree Rainforest. It is a beautiful resort set on the Mossman Gorge. The open-air dining room is spectacular. From there we spent an amazing day on a natural history safari of the rainforest. I highly recommend this for anyone - even natives.
Our guide was David Armbrust. The morning was an interpretive walk on David's private little section of rainforest. We has many little red-legged pademelon's, birds and musky rat kangaroos on his property and they follow him on some of the walk. While we enjoyed morning tea in his personal outdoor "tea room", we were surrounded with birds and "friends". Our day with him was marvelous. Walking around his property, he acting every bit the Pied Piper, was a joy. And the lunch he prepared was scrumptious - fresh grilled coral trout. Of course, we could have eaten cheese sandwiches in the magnificent setting he chose- the convergence of two mountain streams on the top of Mt. Lewis. Afternoon tea was set on the banks of the Mitchell River under paperbark trees for a completely different view of the landscape.
The next day we took the Poseidon fast boat from Port Douglas to the Reef for another day of snorkeling and diving. I saw two sharks! And giant clams!
Our only disappointment were our final two days spent at Double Island near Palm Cove. Their beautiful brochure and web site neglected to inform that the place had gone bankrupt. The Eco Tent we had reserved was smack in the middle of a beach that had been polluted with toxic waste barrels! And the staff had all been let go - save three. Every time we wanted a drink or food, we had to track down a staff person (and I do mean "track down"). Our arrival and departure both happened during downpours of rain with us standing unprotected at the end of their pier hoping wildly for a boat to come cross and rescue us (are you laughing now??) There were a few bright spots, however. We were able to get an upgrade from toxic tent to villa (very nice) and one of the three remaining staff was a genius chef, so the food was at least a delight. There was a resident family of wallaby who dined near our table each night to keep us entertained.
All in all it was a marvelous trip. Even twenty hours fly time home couldn't dampen our enthusiasm for Australia and its people. Everywhere we went we met incredibly warm and generous people.
Aren't you sorry you asked, Aussiedreamer? More than you wanted to know I'm sure. Ah well. Great memories.
