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Our Romantic 30th Anniversary In Paris - A Report

On November 22 of this year we celebrated 30 years of marriage and I got the surprise of my life. He whisked me off to Paris for an unbelievable week. I had no idea where we were headed; only that we were going on a trip, the weather would be approximately 50 degree and we'd be doing a lot of walking. I made quite the scene in the airport - crying, laughing, and hugging strangers while standing in line. It wasn't until we arrived at the airport and he handed me a gift box containing the Fodor's guide to Paris that my dream came true - my very first trip to Paris. For an amateur travel planner, he did a great job. I may let him keep this position permanently. He chose a small hotel in the Latin Quarter (only two people in the elevator at once), we ate in the most romantic little local restaurants every night and we walked our legs off. Arriving late on Sunday evening, the drive into the city gave us glorious nighttime views of the Arche de Triumphe and the Eiffel Tower. (I cried again.) We dined in a local brasserie on omelets and hot chocolate before turning in for the night exhausted from jet lag. Our Left Bank hotel, Jardin du Luxembourg, was located on a quiet side street just one block from the Luxembourg Gardens on the border of the 5th & 6th Arrondissements. Although the room was tiny we had plenty of space, a wonderful, deep soaking tub, a beautiful iron bed with down comforter and pillows and our own little balcony complete with topiary. Up early on Monday we walked to Notre-Dame. The entrance facade was draped in plastic for restoration, but the interior is nothing short of amazing. It was hard to imagine touching stones that were laid in 1163 or to think that Napoleon was crowned emperor in the very same spot where we stood. There were no crowds (this being the off season) so we were able to set our own pace. After Notre-Dame, we walked the Ile St.-Louis just gawking up at the architecture and down at the cobblestone streets. Then we bought chicken and Gruyere paninnis and apple tarts to take along on a cruise of the Seine. An afternoon rain hurried us back to the hotel for naps before dinner at a charming country French restaurant, ChantAirelle, near the Pantheon. It was the most romantic dinner I've ever had for an anniversary. We were in heaven eating puff pastry boxes filled with wild mushrooms, lamb with foi gras and pear tart for dessert. Being November, the Beaujolais Nouveaus had just arrived and we enjoyed a bottle almost every night. We found all of our delightful dining establishments from a great book called Cheap Eats Paris by Sandra Gustafson. It’s a real winner. Meals including wine, appetizer, entrée, and dessert were gastronomic celebrations at much more diminutive prices than I ever thought possible in Paris. On Tuesday we got our museum passes and started with a tour of the Musee d'Orsay. Here we saw Whistler's Mother, the Degas dancers (both on canvas and in clay), works by Manet, Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, vanGogh, Cézanne, Gauguin, Vuillard, Rodin, Matisse and wonderful art deco period rooms and furniture. I must admit that I was very impressed with the building itself, however. It took a true artist to turn the former train station into the current showcase. What started out to be a quick look, turned into an entire day and we were finally hustled out the door at closing by museum guards. We strolled through the cobblestone streets of St.-Germain looking in shops decked for Christmas. There were wonderful doll shops, and florists selling little boxes made from preserved rose leaves filled with preserved rose buds that they said would last for years. Our destination was Le Petite Troquet; a tiny little restaurant down a side alley in the 7th Arrondissement. Here we were delighted with puff pastry filled with melted gruyere cheese and salad, followed by a fish in reduction wine sauce and the best crème caramel in the world. The cute couple that owns and operates the establishment do everything unaided. She takes reservations, greets and seats, waits tables and delivers the fare as well as portraying a fine sommelier. He, of course, is the wonderful chef, but will emerge from the kitchen to help hang coats or clear the occasional table when needed. They were the epitome of charming. After leaving this bastion of French charm, we wandered into the night in search of our metro stop to home. All of a sudden we rounded a street corner and there was the Eiffel Tower in all its nighttime glory. Literally three blocks away it had been completely obscured. I think it was that "forest for the trees" thing going on. So we capped off a perfect day with a ride to the top to see all of Paris glimmering below us. The next morning we were up early to take the train to Versailles. It is late enough in the season that the fountains have been turned off and the flower gardens are bare, but with the absence of summer crowds we were able to see the palace at a leisurely pace. Although the French government has spent more than $19 million on restoration of the palace and "Friends of Versailles" (many of whom are Americans) have spent millions on the gardens there is still much disrepair and shabbiness about. I was greatly dismayed to see graffiti etched in the famed mirrors of the "Hall of Mirrors". After a lunch of rabbit stew, French bread, tarts and cafe au lait, we visited the Petit Trianon and the Grand Trianon, two "small" palaces also on the grounds. The Petit Trianon was built by Louis XVI as a gift to Marie-Antoinette. She, in turn, spent a fortune creating the Hameau - a hamlet of 3/4 sized thatched-roof cottages, a watermill, a lake and rose arbors and gardens to remind her of her Austrian country home. We slept all the way back to Paris on the train and returned to Chantairelle for diner because it was an easy walk from the hotel and guaranteed delicious. I wasn't sure I had another day left in my tired feet, but who could resist spending Thanksgiving at the Louvre? Its amazing how quickly fatigue fades when the mind is occupied with the likes of Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, the French crown jewels, Napoleon's apartments, or The Winged Victory. It’s also easy to overlook the building itself while eyeing all the treasures housed within. The Louvre was once a palace and on the ceilings everywhere are frescos from the 1600s more beautiful than any at Versailles. Again, we stayed until the doors locked and only saw a fraction of the collection - not surprising with over 400,000 pieces housed here. Tired feet weren't up for much walking, even for food, so we dined at La Bastide Odeon just four blocks from our hotel. The waiter couldn't have been friendlier - contrary to stories of the snooty French and their rudeness to Americans. When we asked about a non-smoking section (an unheard of practice in France) he vowed to seat all the smokers upstairs "if possible". Well, with his sincere effort we dined smoke-free that night - a real treat. Friday was our final day and we decided to wander the streets. We saw the church of St. Chapelle, built in 1248 to house Louis IX's holy relics - the Crown of Thorns, two pieces of the True Cross, a nail from the Cross, the Roman soldier's lance that pierced Christ's side and several drops of Christ's blood. Today, only the Crown of Thorns remains and it is housed at Notre-Dame. There are 1500 sq. yds. of stained glass windows depicting the entire Bible in 1134 scenes. They say it takes two weeks of sun up to sun down reading with a good pair of binoculars to follow the whole stained glass text. Everywhere there is restoration going on - refreshing attitude compared to the demolition mentality in the U.S. The base of St. Chapelle was swathed in tents occupied by stonemasons. They were using ancient tools and methods to reproduce and repair gargoyles and buttresses. However, they were blasting The Rolling Stones on their radio, which ruined some of the gothic illusion. We visited the cathedral of St.-Germain-des-Pres, first built in AD 452 and later rebuilt in 1163 and wandered through picture perfect side streets and markets. We dined on duck cassoulet for lunch and ended the day shopping for souvenirs at La Samaritaine with a warm cup of hot chocolate in their rooftop restaurant to watch the sun set over the Seine. A walk home, a little rest and then our last dinner in Paris. This time we dined at Le Grenier, a vegetarian restaurant just across the river from Notre-Dame - a spectacular sight at night. The French can make even tofu taste divine as proven by my husband's lasagna. Of course, a great bottle of wine helps anything. We realized early in the trip that even the least expensive "house" wines in Paris are FRENCH! – both delicious and cheap. Then it was a walk under the full moon home to pack and try to sleep; all the while wishing we had another week...or month, to continue.

Dear TC, Thank you for the lyrical report on your great time in Paris! If I ever get to go again, I'll certainly look up some of your places. Best wishes to you and your husband for many more years and trips.

TC--- now that's a classy guy!! Your report was tops as well and it was a joy to read. Thanks for sharing. Congratulations. P.S. I think you should keep him....

Welcome home and happy anniversary. Loved to read your report as it brought back lots of memories. I too ate in Chantairelle and absolutely loved it. Glad you had a great time and he's a keeper.

Your husband is a real gem and your report was full of wonderful ideas and just delightful. Thank you for posting.

What a wonderful trip report. You sound like to happy people. I'm glad you had such a great visit, and thank yo for sharing your experience.

Thanks to all for the good wishes. Glad you enjoyed the report.....and I DO intend to keep him. Happy New Year.

Your trip sounds great...I would like to know if you think a week is just enough time to be there and what type of price range were your accomodations. thanks

Your trip sounds great! Thanks for sharing it with everyone. We stayed in the Hotel Des Jardins du Luxembourg this summer and I believe our small but very well decorated room was around 125USD per night.

Yes, our hotel did cost $120 Eurodollars per night, which is equal to approx. $125 US. This included all tax, etc. I would have loved to have more time in Paris. The problem is always travel time. Although we left the US on Saturday, we didn't arrive in Paris until Sunday night and we had to depart early the next Saturday. We really only had 5 days on the ground. I think 7-10 days would have been perfect. Although I surely wouldn't turn down the opportunity to do it all again.

Thanks. Great report.

Can't believe I missed this report! I'm sitting here with tears in my eyes, you've made me homesick for Paris. Does your husband have a brother, in case the sickly baron plan doesn't work?

Elvira; Alas, no brothers or sickly barons in the family, but it sounds like you've already discovered the beauty of Paris on your own. Thanks for the kind words.

I am another of the romantic fools who read your report with tears in my eyes! We have already booked a trip to Spain this summer, but you have definitely cemented my decision to try for Paris next year. I agree with all the others on the board that your husband is a keeper. Only a special, special person could plan such a glorious anniversary trip. I wish you another 30 years plus of wedded bless!

Dear TC, I really enjoyed your report! You should write for a travel company, magazine, etc. Many more Happy Anniversaries and great surprises. Hopefully you (actually your husband) have inspired other guys to surprise their "signicant others." Elsa

Maureen; Spain is high on our travel list, so please share your trip report with us upon return. Your compliments on my report are appreciated.

What a wonderful trip...and hubby!! That's a wonderful anniversary celebration. And since my husband and I are planning a trip in November, your most romantic Parisian report will definitely come in handy! Thanks so much for sharing it with everyone!

You are most welcome. I hope your visit to Paris is as wonderful as ours was.

We just booked four nights at the Jardin de Luxembourg for my husband and I and our 17, and 22 daughters, the result of our 30 years of marriage. What a nice story, I've printed out your restaurant recommendations. Glad to hear the Jardin is a good hotel. Thanks, and here's to 30 more.

We're leaving at the end of the month and staying at the Jardin du Luxembourgfor a week as well. Everything I've read has sounded great, but I'm also glad to hear how nice it is from "real" folks! Thank you. I'll look up Chantairelle as well. If we're lucky, our trip will be as romantic and unforgettable as was yours.

Loved your report TC, and the romance. Thanks. Just one point I'd like to clarify. The Musee D'Orsay has one of the world's great collections of art NOUVEAU; for those of us who cherish this period, earlier than deco and quite different, it is a veritable shrine.

Lola, Guess I didn't pay enough attention at the D'Orsay. Never too late to learn something. Thanks for the lesson. To Those Staying at Jardin du Luxembourg; The hotel has a copy of "Cheap Eats Paris" for lending in the lobby. It is complete with previous visitors comments - including ours. Enjoy!

TC- What a great post. My anti-Francophile has decided to take my son and I to Paris in 6 weeks. My son and I are hoping being there will make him want to return. He says there's only 3 days worth of sightseeing there. My 14 year old and I can think of a month's worth. Can't wait to change his mind and maybe get some more trips. You are a very lucky woman to have your husband.

TC: What a terrific hubby, your report was wonderful and brought back memories. WE were in Paris last year at dined at Le Petite Troquet also. It was fabulous.

Thanks TC for a wonderful story of your time in Paris. My husband and I are travelling to Europe for our honeymoon and will be in Paris for 6 days. I am looking forward to your dining recommendations. I am wondering if you can only get the Cheap Eats in Paris book in Paris and if so where? Our friends we are travelling with who live in Amsterdam are our travel guides and we would like to get that book before we go. Thank you and I hope my first time in Paris is as great as yours was!

To kbw: You can get the Cheap Eats in Paris book in the US at any bookstore.

Happy belated 30 years to you! I'm going on my 5th trip to Paris next week with some friends of mine (we're all photographers) and I'm interested in the restuarants you went to on your trip. If you could give me the names and addresses of the restaurants you visited it would be appreciated. We'll be staying near Place Vendome area. Since I've been to Paris 4 times already I'm very familiar with the metro and take it everywhere. I'm interested in finding a really nice restuarant for our "Final Farewell Dinner" in Paris and some casual places to eat, so any help would be appreicated. I'll let you know how we did. Thanks.

To All: Sorry I haven't been responsive to this post lately. We've been in Australia for a few weeks - another wonderful adventure. In answer to some of your questions. Yes, the book Cheap Eats Paris can be purchased in most any book store in the US or from some of the big on-line book stores. There is a series of "Cheap" books covering several cities - both "eats" and "sleeps". All the restaurants we visited are listed by name in my report here and the addresses and maps with directions can be found in the Cheap Eats book. I hope you all enjoy your visits to Paris as much as I did. Do keep me posted on your special finds. TC

Wow!! What a peach of a guy - a wonderful husband and an equally wonderful thread. I'm so glad someone topped this as I'd never read it before. : )

Anyone lookin for "Cheap Eats" or "Cheap Sleeps" (for Paris and a few other cities too), after using them about 5 years ago, I recently saw them in a small shop in Chicago but they have a new name "Great Eats" and "Great Sleeps", same authors, types of places, reviews, etc., but new name.

TC,
where has your husband taken you since? or can he top this one? :)

This was a pleasure to read again~

OH TC! This is the most romantic post I have seen here in a long time. How lucky you two, are, to have each other!!!

Well Scarlett, I don't think he can top this one - a girls first trip to Paris. But he has taken me lots of wonderful places - Africa, Australia, China, London, Honduras, Belize, Mexico, and even back to Paris and Nantes. Now we're headed to Provence in the fall to stay in B&Bs in Cassis, Vaison, Gordes, and Avignon. Later in the year we're off to do some sailing in St. Martin. But the best gift he's given me is much closer to home - two amazing grandchildren, a girl 4 years old and our new baby boy. I'm just as happy being "Nonna" as I am being TC. Life is sweet - on and off the road.

Wishing you all the same.

Wished I could have been there to witness the scene in the airport!

Topping for JFFisher.

Very nice report, TC. My husband whisked me away to Paris for my 30th birthday, so I can relate to how you felt. However, it wasn't a surprise for me. Yours is a very sweet story and I wish you many more years of wedded bliss!