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-   -   Our Basque country fall 2019 trip (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/our-basque-country-fall-2019-trip-1705164/)

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 06:17 AM

Mikelg, fyi there’s a Bayonne in NJ. It’s neither charming nor historic but isn’t far from the Jersey shore.

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 06:37 AM

As far as regions of Spain, all the places I've been I've loved. We've been to Spain 5 times, more than any other country, including Italy, which I adore as well. We've been to Madrid, Barcelona, Cordoba/Granada/Sevilla/Ronda, Basque and Andalusian coast. The Andalusian coast was the biggest surprise. I hadn't ever given it much thought, but when looking for a 'pandemic' vacation (in any country), I was looking for good weather, outdoorsy, picturesque (as you can see I like to take photos...lots of them), road trip type vibe, beach a plus and some how landed there. I'm glad I did. Already thinking of possible future trip along coast. Instead of going from Jerez to Malaga, go the opposite direction to Algarve, Portugal (previously visited Porto/Lisbon and a little in between)..

Currently planning trip to Greece. 1st time there. Sicily also high on my bucket list. So many places!

TDudette Feb 28th, 2022 06:48 AM

More nice pix, MFNYC. I share your enjoyment of laundry! Progol noted it as art in another TR. Hondarribia looks stunning.

mikelg Feb 28th, 2022 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by MFNYC (Post 17338039)
As far as regions of Spain, all the places I've been I've loved. We've been to Spain 5 times, more than any other country, including Italy, which I adore as well. We've been to Madrid, Barcelona, Cordoba/Granada/Sevilla/Ronda, Basque and Andalusian coast. The Andalusian coast was the biggest surprise. I hadn't ever given it much thought, but when looking for a 'pandemic' vacation (in any country), I was looking for good weather, outdoorsy, picturesque (as you can see I like to take photos...lots of them), road trip type vibe, beach a plus and some how landed there. I'm glad I did. Already thinking of possible future trip along coast. Instead of going from Jerez to Malaga, go the opposite direction to Algarve, Portugal (previously visited Porto/Lisbon and a little in between)..

Currently planning trip to Greece. 1st time there. Sicily also high on my bucket list. So many places!

I´ve spent my last two holidays in Huelva, next to Portugal. Absolutely wonderful.I stayed in Ayamonte and visited the Andévalo area and all the area around Guadiana river, as well as Moguer, Palos and other historical towns in the area. Long beaches, beautiful scenery, calm, quiet in most places...and just a river crossing to Portugal and the eastern Algarve area and a bit north to the Alentejo, beautiful.

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by mikelg (Post 17338071)
I´ve spent my last two holidays in Huelva, next to Portugal. Absolutely wonderful.I stayed in Ayamonte and visited the Andévalo area and all the area around Guadiana river, as well as Moguer, Palos and other historical towns in the area. Long beaches, beautiful scenery, calm, quiet in most places...and just a river crossing to Portugal and the eastern Algarve area and a bit north to the Alentejo, beautiful.

I will take note!

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 10:27 AM

Day 6 -Today was the 1st rainy day. Our Pension gave us a discount coupon for a couple of local cafes for breakfast. We went to one around the corner, and it was fine, the coffee excellent. This was our day in the old town. We explored the area, visited the Basilica of St. Mary and the San Telmo Museum. Rain was on and off all day. That night we had dinner back in the old city.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3be1da2863.jpg
Rainy day in old city, San Sebastian
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b04c71735.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adb6143799.jpg
Basilica of St Mary
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96240e6b06.jpg
Basilica of St Mary
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e40a08fedd.jpg
San Telmo Museum
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db3203365e.jpg
San Telmo Museum
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc0168ccbd.jpg
San Telmo Museum
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f72f84f558.jpg
Plaza de Constitution
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d29feb985.jpg
old city
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b749fc5fa.jpg
old city
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...53861711b6.jpg
clearing skies
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce8692220a.jpg
Pintxos!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6fb0abc86f.jpg
Gipuzkoa Plaza
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22a62cbad5.jpg
Walk along Urumea river
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65c56e628d.jpg
I think this was a government building opposite Gipuzkoa Plaza


mikelg Feb 28th, 2022 11:16 AM

The last building is the Diputación Foral de Gipuzkoa, a provincial way of government that takes care of many aspects of our daily life. And it´s the institution where we pay our taxes. In the Basque Country we do not pay taxes to Spain, there´s a centuries old agreement so our taxes remain in the Basque Country and we settle with Spain every 5 years for our share of the Army, Ports and Aiports (to make a long story short). In fact, we have our own police force (Ertzaintza), own public health system, own education and universities and our own Basque Government. It also happens in other parts of Spain, similar to your States, but with a higher degree of "independence" in the Basque Country.

TDudette Feb 28th, 2022 11:28 AM

"....similar to your States, but with a higher degree of "independence" in the Basque Country." Oh mikelg, don't give some U.S. states any ideas! 😁

KarenWoo Feb 28th, 2022 01:41 PM

I love your photos of San Sebastian. It's obviously a beautiful city! You have a great eye for detail and composition. Really enjoying your report of this part of Spain that I have not been to yet.

MFNYC Mar 1st, 2022 07:21 AM

Day 7 – The weather cleared. We walked a bit around town in the morning, admiring the lovely architecture..

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12dd8605a2.jpg
San Sebastian
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d31ab2c61.jpg
San Sebastian
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...574a69d9f1.jpg
San Sebastian
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7aea0b5efa.jpg
San Sebastian

We then took the car for a day trip. We stopped in Zumaia, Getaria and Zarautz.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca5fad44ba.jpg
Zumaia
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1754bfa739.jpg
Zumaia
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c3df23538.jpg
Flysch Cliffs
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc54ba7077.jpg
Getaria
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...762060dfc9.jpg
Getaria
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bada01df7b.jpg
Getaria
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16ef6be2fd.jpg
Getaria
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17196f0776.jpg
Zarautz
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a6c9a7bea.jpg
Zarautz

That evening we had a wonderful dinner at La Muralla. Sadly, I believe it has since closed permanently.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a66f3e425.jpg
La Muralla


Maribel Mar 1st, 2022 08:11 AM

Love your photos of San Sebastián's Belle Epoque architecture and your day trip to Zarautz, Getaria and Zumaia and the Flysch cliffs--looks like it was a great day!
Yes, La Muralla is permanently closed.

mikelg Mar 1st, 2022 08:24 AM

La Muralla has changed ownership to a brand new restaurant offering avant-garde menus, can´t remember its name now. The statue of Getaria is dedicated to Juan Sebastián Elcano, the first person that circumnavegated the world (yes, everybody wrongly believes it´s Magellan, but he died in the Philippines and his second officer, Elcano, took the ships back to Spain after rounding the world, 239 men departed and 18 returned three years later). The 500 anniversary of this trip is celebrated this year, and in fact Sept 6 (date of arrival) is a public holiday in the Basque Country this year for the first time.

Getaria is also home to Balenciaga Dress Museum, probably the most famous fashion designer in the 60s and 70s.

Maribel Mar 1st, 2022 08:43 AM

The restaurant that took over the space of La Muralla is Kostera.
Restaurante Kostera - Cocina de temporada.

MFNYC Mar 2nd, 2022 11:38 AM

Day 8 - We had breakfast and hit the road. Onward to the last destination of our trip, Bilbao. We made 1 stop in transit, Guernica (we had seen the painting years ago in Madrid). We walked around the old town to see some of the sights, stopped for pintxos and visited the Peace Museum. Another very worthy stop.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49ec7a6e85.jpg
Museo de la Paz de Guernica
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...216c234ce8.jpg
The Old Tree of Guernica
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9130c4c9a9.jpg
Guernica
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c13680169e.jpg
Guernica
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d8800c426.jpg
Guernica


From there we drove to Bilbao airport, dropped off the car and took a taxi to our hotel, Hotel Tayko. A new, industrial hip vibe hotel in an old building in the old city. Again a perfect location to walk to almost everything.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca82305605.jpg
View from elevator in Hotel Tayko
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e9f50d7ec.jpg
Street view from room


Strolled a bit and had dinner at Odoloste on the other side of the river from the old town. Despite pretty great reviews, we were not blown away by our dinner. Some of the simpler meals we had were better.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47061389c6.jpg
Bilboa riverfront
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9a360c385.jpg
Plaza Moyua
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bd61cb4ff.jpg
Jado Square Bilbao
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec73a2657e.jpg
Santander Rail Station Bilbao
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24bc5eccb0.jpg
Bilbao

By the time we returned to the hotel, the old town was hopping.

TDudette Mar 2nd, 2022 11:58 AM

MFNYC, the wonderful shots of Bilbao made me think about Pisa (leaning...lol...away from the Tower area).

HappyTrvlr Mar 2nd, 2022 01:12 PM

We loved our trip to the Spanish and French Basque regions. Your photos make me want to return.

KarenWoo Mar 2nd, 2022 01:18 PM

Love all your photos especially of the Flysch cliffs! Guernica looks very interesting. Saw Picasso's painting at Reina Sofia in Madrid. And Bilbao looks beautiful!

zebec Mar 2nd, 2022 02:06 PM

MFNYC, I enjoyed your fine collection of photos here. Lots of brightly-lit sunny scenes and a great itinerary. I have never seen 'non-bullrun' Pamplona imagery, so merci. And that Santander rail shot!
Your SS shots reminded me of having once been interviewed live on radio there.
Btw, we were at our city's largest wine shop yesterday and stared long and hard at the rare Riojas there.
Where to next?
I am done. The end.

MFNYC Mar 3rd, 2022 09:05 AM

Thank you all. Winding down here, but still 2 more days of touring Bilbao.

MFNYC Mar 3rd, 2022 09:17 AM

Day 9 – I booked a walking tour of the old city for the morning. We had breakfast at a local café, then met up with the tour.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7c44fb2fa.jpg
mercado de la ribera
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a31d057b6.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f1577a97d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e45b32b519.jpg
Can't get enough of these river reflection photos
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b80f56c049.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aebfb7fd52.jpg
I'm a big fan of rooftop views
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28c29ea891.jpg
Plaza Nueva
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52b58a2972.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8f9c7fa6c.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35586cda66.jpg
Fountain of dogs
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b917091fc.jpg
Central Library
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f0c304a37.jpg
Edificio Artklass

Our guide, Sam, invited us to join his afternoon tour which included taking the funicular de artxanda and the basilica.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af95def660.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...126e0500b0.jpg
View from Artxanda
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f5ce6dac7.jpg
Begońako Basilika

Before dinner, we had complementary drinks at the hotel bar (included with the room), then just wandered around the old city, and had dinner in the area. After dinner we spent some time people watching at Plaza Nuevo.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fc890b1ee.jpg
More Pintxos
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61131751be.jpg
Plaza Nueva at night



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