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MFNYC Feb 25th, 2022 02:21 PM

Our Basque country fall 2019 trip
 
Better late than never I guess, here is my trip report form a 2019 trip to beautiful Basque country.

Day 1 - We arrived in Bilbao in the morning. Rented a car and headed for Abalos. We didn't want to do too much driving on arrival, but thought we could manage this. It's no more than a 1.5 hour trip, pretty straight forward. Abalos is a small town in La Rioja, surrounded by vineyards. We stayed in Villa de Abalos, a charming hotel right in the town. Parking available at the hotel. Since we got there early, our room wasn't ready. We ordered some tapas for lunch while waiting, and walked around the town. We arrived on a Friday. Friday night they have a special, 3 glasses of wine for 2 + charcuterie plate for 12E. After settling in we went to their bar area for the Friday night special. We ordered the special, and a couple of Pintxos and that was dinner. The hotel also has a nice restaurant, but the bar food was enough. We chatted with some of the locals, and some other tourists. It was a fun night in an adorable town.
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Villa De Abalos
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Vineyards
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Friday night bar special
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Room window
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Maribel Feb 25th, 2022 02:25 PM

Yeah, the Basque Trip Report has commenced!
Glad you enjoyed your stay in teeny, tiny Abalos, our home away from home in La Rioja. José Luis and Merche are our dear friends.

MFNYC Feb 25th, 2022 02:39 PM

As teeny tiny as it is, we still had trouble finding the hotel! And with the stick shift, my husband had trouble getting up the little hill to the hotel. A lady living on the corner there had assisted with pointing us in the right direction. Unfortunately Jose could not give us tour of their winery, but we did find an alternative (coming in day 2).

annhig Feb 25th, 2022 02:50 PM

So pleased to see this after my trip to the Basque country in June 2020 had to be postponed for obvious reasons.

I am determined to get there one day soon so welcome all your descriptions of your experiences and your lovely photos.

MFNYC Feb 25th, 2022 04:00 PM

Day 2 - Before leaving Abalos, we decided to check out a winery. We were directed to Bodega Solana de Ramirez Ruiz, which is a few blocks from the hotel. When we arrived, it did not appear open. We buzzed the buzzer. Someone came over to us, and said someone will be with us in a minute. A young woman showed and offered a tour. This winery has been in her family for generations. She took us around, then we stopped in the tasting room. It was a little early for wine tasting, but I wasn't driving, so thought I'd have a taste. We ended up buying a couple of bottle, then headed back to the hotel to move on.

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We headed to LaGuardia with a photo op stop at Balcon del la Rioja.
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LaGuardia is a hill top town. There are parking lots along the perimeter. We found a spot, and headed to our hotel, Hospederia De Los Parajes, Another lovely hotel.
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We had plans to meet up with friends in LaGuardia, but had some time so we walked around the perimeter, where there are lovely views.
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We had planned for a Bodega tour before dinner. We went to Bodega Carlos San Pedro Perez, a couple of blocks from the hotel. It was a fun tour. There were some very interesting people in the group, so we lingered a bit chatting with some of them.
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We met our friends back at the hotel, and had a very nice dinner there.

mikelg Feb 25th, 2022 10:50 PM

Lovely pictures, thanks for sharing! Not many people know that Rioja wine region should not be mistaken with La Rioja, one of the 17 political regions Spain is divided into. There are three Rioja wine region in the D.O. C. (Denominación de Origen Calificada): Rioja Alta, mainly around Haro; Rioja Alavesa, in Laguardia and Labastida, Elciego...which is the Basque Rioja; and Rioja Oriental, formerly Rioja Baja, the eastern part of Rioja DOC that also includes a tiny part of Navarre. Keep going!

MFNYC Feb 27th, 2022 08:23 AM

Day 3 – One last walk around LaGuardia then hit the road

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1st stop was to check out Gehry’s creation, Hotel Marqués de Riscal. We were not interested in a winery tour, and since we weren’t staying in the hotel, we were not permitted to drive up to it, or even enter the lobby. There’s parking near a gift shop. We went into the gift shop and one of the clerks, told us we can up there if we go to the café, he just had to make a call saying we’re on our way.. We already had breakfast and our morning coffee, but were curious we decided to go for another. The café was empty. It was late morning so I guess the breakfast crowd was gone, and it was too early for the lunch crowd. We sat outdoors, on their patio with a view, and ordered coffee. The wait staff was very friendly, we chatted with them about the building and winery. We then were able to walk around the building, in the lobby, and even the vineyards a bit.

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Cafe patio view

Our destination of the day was St Jean de Luz. We made a stop in Pamploma for a light lunch and a look. Pamploma is a very cute and colorful town. We usde a public garage to park. Street parking seemed pretty impossible. It appeared to be siesta time when we arrived, so the streets were very quiet, at first, but boy did that change! The next thing you know the streets were packed. This could easily be an overnight stop if time allowed.

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Pamploma
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Packed Pamploma streets

In St Jean De Luz we stayed at Hotel La Marisa, a small local hotel a block from the beach. St Jean is small, so easy enough to explore on foot. The hotel had a garage where we arranged for a spot in advance. It was a tight spot to say the least, but we managed to get in and out without a scratch. The smaller the car the better in this area!

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Beach in St Jean de Luz
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View from Hotel window

We took a late afternoon break at Le Pub du Corsaire, and shared a delicious melted camembert with pesto. We had a dinner reservation, again with our friends (who followed us to St. Jean) at Le Brouillarta which now sadly appears to be permanently closed. The food was very well executed and inventive.

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Dessert at Le Brouillarta

mikelg Feb 27th, 2022 09:11 AM

I see that people are wearing fiesta handkerchiefs in Pamplona and I see them dancing, so depending on the day of the year there was probably some kind of festivals going on. In most of Spain there´s not much street activity from 3pm to 6pm, approximately. It´s when we are back from lunch and back to work, but then the streets get packed again around 7pm until more or less 10pm (weekdays), for our daily round of wines while socializing with family and friends. "Siesta" (nap) is more of a myth than a real thing for most people, except perhaps on weekends. Beautiful pics, thanks!

MFNYC Feb 27th, 2022 09:29 AM

The date in Pamplona was 9/29/2019. The dancing appeared to be in front of, what I think was, a church.

*Please excuse my misspelling of Pamplona in my earlier post.

Maribel Feb 27th, 2022 11:34 AM

MFNYC,
Really enjoying your photos of my favorite Basque towns!

My late husband and I stayed in Lagurdia for many years during its Fiestas de San Felices, June 24-29, between the Fiesta de San Juan and Fiesta de San Pedro, when the villagers watch, or some "daring" ones run with the vaquillas (young calves, heifers), up and down Calle Mayor, back and forth, twice a day, kind of a mini Fiesta de San Fermín but with the vaquillas horns covered (a provincial regulation). We went out to the bull raising ranch in Los Molinos (no longer in existence) so that he could "help" in covering their horns, an interesting process!, followed by a big mid-day feast with the family. He loved Laguardia and those crazy fiestas.

It's nice that you did stop in Pamplona for a tour of the Old Quarter, as Pamplona is often bypassed outside of the Sanfermines. The Old Quarter is really pretty, very colorful, as can been seen in your great photos. And around 7:30 the pamploneses pack those lively bars and spill out into the streets, especially on "the street of the thousand bars", San Nicolás and around the Plaza Mayor.
It looks like the people might be dancing a jota, a typical regional dance of Navarra and Aragón.

Keep those photos coming!

mikelg Feb 27th, 2022 12:10 PM

Sept 29 is San Saturnino, the patron saint of Iruńa-Pamplona and co-saint of Navarre together with San Francisco Javier (Saint Francis Xavier), so yes, it was a day off and a day for celebrations (although we are not very religious any more, we love to celebrate our traditions!!).

TDudette Feb 27th, 2022 12:39 PM

The Gehry hotel looked amazing. Super photos....like those in the Andalusia TR.

MFNYC Feb 27th, 2022 02:10 PM

Day 4 – We had breakfast at the hotel (not included with room). It was OK, but nothing special. though their outdoor patio space was very pleasant.

We then headed by car to Train de la Rhune, and took the train up to the top of the mountain. We walked around to see all the views, and the horses. We had lunch at the café then took the train back down.

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On our drive back to St Jean we first stopped in the charming little town of Ainhoa, then made a stop in Bayonne. Bayonne is another location that could easily be an overnight or home base for day trips.
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Ainhoa
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Ainhoa
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Bayonne cathedral
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Bayonne
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Bayonne


Back in St Jean, we caught a beach sunset, than strolled around, a little but away from the main touristy area, to look for a dinner spot. We ended up at a very tasty pizza restaurant.

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St Jean De Luz sunset

Day 5 – Had breakfast at a local café, Akeita Coffee, which was very good (better than hotel). After breakfast we packed up to move on. Our next destination was San Sebastian. We first made a photo op stop at Corniche Basque d'Urrugne. Then quick stop in town of Hendaye, and a lunch stop in the very cute town, Hondarribia. Lunch had a morrocan flair and was very good.

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Corniche de Urragne
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Corniche de Urragne
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Corniche de Urragne
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Hondarribia
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Hondarribia
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Hondarribia
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Hondarribia
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Hondarribia (I always take laundry photos, one of my favorite photo subjects)

As in most of the larger cities, we arrived in San Sebastian, and had a bit of trouble finding our way to our Pension, Peńaflorida. We had arranged parking through the Pension at a local public garage. The Pension was in an excellent location, right off Alderdi Eder parkea and within a couple of blocks to the old town. This guest house was perfectly fine, very reasonable, nothing fancy, just a floor in an apartment building. My only complaint was the young woman at the front desk. Not exactly friendly, in fact a bit surly, especially if she’s on a cigarette break and you have a question.

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View from our room at Pension Penaflorida
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Alderdi Eder parkea

After settling in, we walked around the beach horseshoe and took the funicular to the summit of Monte Igueldo. More great views! We were pretty pooped after that, took a city bus back into town, although we got on a bus going in the wrong direction, so had a bit of a bus tour of the outer reaches of San Sebastian. We were tired, so didn’t mind the ride and eventually got to where we wanted to be. That night we had a nice tapas dinner with our friends at a casual gastropub, Xiri Donosti.

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San Sebastian beach
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Walking along the beach
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View from Monte Igueldo
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View from Monte Igueldo




Maribel Feb 27th, 2022 07:01 PM

Continuing to enjoy your photos!
It looks like you had a beautiful day for the train ride to La Rhune. Those horses that you saw on ride are the shy and sweet Pottokas, an ancient, semi-feral breed.

joannyc Feb 27th, 2022 07:10 PM


Originally Posted by TDudette (Post 17337782)
The Gehry hotel looked amazing. Super photos....like those in the Andalusia TR.

That hotel is a Marriott property. I didn’t stay there but did walk around the grounds and take some photos.

Loving your TR! Thanks!

KarenWoo Feb 27th, 2022 08:47 PM

Love your photos and information. Is Bayonne in France? Basque country looks so very different from Andalucia! What was your itinerary? How many nights in each place? So it looks like you have visited many different regions of Spain. Any favorites?

mikelg Feb 27th, 2022 11:47 PM

Bayonne, or Baiona in Basque, is the most interesting town in the French Basque Country, frequently overshadowed by the (undeserved, I think) fame of Biarritz. Spain is a very heterogeneous and different country from east to west, north to south, in terms of architecture, languages, traditions, food, landscapes...and so, the Basque Country has little in common with Andalusia.

progol Feb 28th, 2022 02:30 AM

This is wonderful! We also had a trip planned in Spring 2020 which we had to cancel. And this is reminding me that we would love to get to this region someday soon!
Thanks for taking the time to do this.

annhig Feb 28th, 2022 05:43 AM

Still enjoying your continuing trip and photos very much, MFNYC. And loving your itinerary too. lots of food for thought.

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 06:11 AM

When I was looking at possible places to stay in French basque, I considered st Jean de luz, Biarritz and Bayonne. I knew I could onLy stay in 1 and maybe visit another for quick look. Biarritz sounded a bit too flashy for my tastes as far as a place to stay. St Jean is also a beach town, and I liked that idea just for the beach scenery. I chose Bayonne to visit because it has different character than st Jean, historical and not beach town.

Some people prefer flashy which is fine. I tend to gravitate towards old town charm. It’s a win-win either way.

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 06:17 AM

Mikelg, fyi there’s a Bayonne in NJ. It’s neither charming nor historic but isn’t far from the Jersey shore.

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 06:37 AM

As far as regions of Spain, all the places I've been I've loved. We've been to Spain 5 times, more than any other country, including Italy, which I adore as well. We've been to Madrid, Barcelona, Cordoba/Granada/Sevilla/Ronda, Basque and Andalusian coast. The Andalusian coast was the biggest surprise. I hadn't ever given it much thought, but when looking for a 'pandemic' vacation (in any country), I was looking for good weather, outdoorsy, picturesque (as you can see I like to take photos...lots of them), road trip type vibe, beach a plus and some how landed there. I'm glad I did. Already thinking of possible future trip along coast. Instead of going from Jerez to Malaga, go the opposite direction to Algarve, Portugal (previously visited Porto/Lisbon and a little in between)..

Currently planning trip to Greece. 1st time there. Sicily also high on my bucket list. So many places!

TDudette Feb 28th, 2022 06:48 AM

More nice pix, MFNYC. I share your enjoyment of laundry! Progol noted it as art in another TR. Hondarribia looks stunning.

mikelg Feb 28th, 2022 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by MFNYC (Post 17338039)
As far as regions of Spain, all the places I've been I've loved. We've been to Spain 5 times, more than any other country, including Italy, which I adore as well. We've been to Madrid, Barcelona, Cordoba/Granada/Sevilla/Ronda, Basque and Andalusian coast. The Andalusian coast was the biggest surprise. I hadn't ever given it much thought, but when looking for a 'pandemic' vacation (in any country), I was looking for good weather, outdoorsy, picturesque (as you can see I like to take photos...lots of them), road trip type vibe, beach a plus and some how landed there. I'm glad I did. Already thinking of possible future trip along coast. Instead of going from Jerez to Malaga, go the opposite direction to Algarve, Portugal (previously visited Porto/Lisbon and a little in between)..

Currently planning trip to Greece. 1st time there. Sicily also high on my bucket list. So many places!

I´ve spent my last two holidays in Huelva, next to Portugal. Absolutely wonderful.I stayed in Ayamonte and visited the Andévalo area and all the area around Guadiana river, as well as Moguer, Palos and other historical towns in the area. Long beaches, beautiful scenery, calm, quiet in most places...and just a river crossing to Portugal and the eastern Algarve area and a bit north to the Alentejo, beautiful.

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by mikelg (Post 17338071)
I´ve spent my last two holidays in Huelva, next to Portugal. Absolutely wonderful.I stayed in Ayamonte and visited the Andévalo area and all the area around Guadiana river, as well as Moguer, Palos and other historical towns in the area. Long beaches, beautiful scenery, calm, quiet in most places...and just a river crossing to Portugal and the eastern Algarve area and a bit north to the Alentejo, beautiful.

I will take note!

MFNYC Feb 28th, 2022 10:27 AM

Day 6 -Today was the 1st rainy day. Our Pension gave us a discount coupon for a couple of local cafes for breakfast. We went to one around the corner, and it was fine, the coffee excellent. This was our day in the old town. We explored the area, visited the Basilica of St. Mary and the San Telmo Museum. Rain was on and off all day. That night we had dinner back in the old city.
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Rainy day in old city, San Sebastian
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Basilica of St Mary
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Basilica of St Mary
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San Telmo Museum
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San Telmo Museum
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San Telmo Museum
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Plaza de Constitution
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old city
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old city
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clearing skies
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Pintxos!
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Gipuzkoa Plaza
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Walk along Urumea river
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I think this was a government building opposite Gipuzkoa Plaza


mikelg Feb 28th, 2022 11:16 AM

The last building is the Diputación Foral de Gipuzkoa, a provincial way of government that takes care of many aspects of our daily life. And it´s the institution where we pay our taxes. In the Basque Country we do not pay taxes to Spain, there´s a centuries old agreement so our taxes remain in the Basque Country and we settle with Spain every 5 years for our share of the Army, Ports and Aiports (to make a long story short). In fact, we have our own police force (Ertzaintza), own public health system, own education and universities and our own Basque Government. It also happens in other parts of Spain, similar to your States, but with a higher degree of "independence" in the Basque Country.

TDudette Feb 28th, 2022 11:28 AM

"....similar to your States, but with a higher degree of "independence" in the Basque Country." Oh mikelg, don't give some U.S. states any ideas! 😁

KarenWoo Feb 28th, 2022 01:41 PM

I love your photos of San Sebastian. It's obviously a beautiful city! You have a great eye for detail and composition. Really enjoying your report of this part of Spain that I have not been to yet.

MFNYC Mar 1st, 2022 07:21 AM

Day 7 – The weather cleared. We walked a bit around town in the morning, admiring the lovely architecture..

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San Sebastian
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San Sebastian
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San Sebastian
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San Sebastian

We then took the car for a day trip. We stopped in Zumaia, Getaria and Zarautz.

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Zumaia
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Zumaia
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Flysch Cliffs
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Getaria
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Getaria
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Getaria
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Getaria
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Zarautz
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Zarautz

That evening we had a wonderful dinner at La Muralla. Sadly, I believe it has since closed permanently.

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La Muralla


Maribel Mar 1st, 2022 08:11 AM

Love your photos of San Sebastián's Belle Epoque architecture and your day trip to Zarautz, Getaria and Zumaia and the Flysch cliffs--looks like it was a great day!
Yes, La Muralla is permanently closed.

mikelg Mar 1st, 2022 08:24 AM

La Muralla has changed ownership to a brand new restaurant offering avant-garde menus, can´t remember its name now. The statue of Getaria is dedicated to Juan Sebastián Elcano, the first person that circumnavegated the world (yes, everybody wrongly believes it´s Magellan, but he died in the Philippines and his second officer, Elcano, took the ships back to Spain after rounding the world, 239 men departed and 18 returned three years later). The 500 anniversary of this trip is celebrated this year, and in fact Sept 6 (date of arrival) is a public holiday in the Basque Country this year for the first time.

Getaria is also home to Balenciaga Dress Museum, probably the most famous fashion designer in the 60s and 70s.

Maribel Mar 1st, 2022 08:43 AM

The restaurant that took over the space of La Muralla is Kostera.
Restaurante Kostera - Cocina de temporada.

MFNYC Mar 2nd, 2022 11:38 AM

Day 8 - We had breakfast and hit the road. Onward to the last destination of our trip, Bilbao. We made 1 stop in transit, Guernica (we had seen the painting years ago in Madrid). We walked around the old town to see some of the sights, stopped for pintxos and visited the Peace Museum. Another very worthy stop.

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Museo de la Paz de Guernica
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The Old Tree of Guernica
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Guernica
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Guernica
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Guernica


From there we drove to Bilbao airport, dropped off the car and took a taxi to our hotel, Hotel Tayko. A new, industrial hip vibe hotel in an old building in the old city. Again a perfect location to walk to almost everything.
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View from elevator in Hotel Tayko
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Street view from room


Strolled a bit and had dinner at Odoloste on the other side of the river from the old town. Despite pretty great reviews, we were not blown away by our dinner. Some of the simpler meals we had were better.
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Bilboa riverfront
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Plaza Moyua
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Jado Square Bilbao
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Santander Rail Station Bilbao
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Bilbao

By the time we returned to the hotel, the old town was hopping.

TDudette Mar 2nd, 2022 11:58 AM

MFNYC, the wonderful shots of Bilbao made me think about Pisa (leaning...lol...away from the Tower area).

HappyTrvlr Mar 2nd, 2022 01:12 PM

We loved our trip to the Spanish and French Basque regions. Your photos make me want to return.

KarenWoo Mar 2nd, 2022 01:18 PM

Love all your photos especially of the Flysch cliffs! Guernica looks very interesting. Saw Picasso's painting at Reina Sofia in Madrid. And Bilbao looks beautiful!

zebec Mar 2nd, 2022 02:06 PM

MFNYC, I enjoyed your fine collection of photos here. Lots of brightly-lit sunny scenes and a great itinerary. I have never seen 'non-bullrun' Pamplona imagery, so merci. And that Santander rail shot!
Your SS shots reminded me of having once been interviewed live on radio there.
Btw, we were at our city's largest wine shop yesterday and stared long and hard at the rare Riojas there.
Where to next?
I am done. The end.

MFNYC Mar 3rd, 2022 09:05 AM

Thank you all. Winding down here, but still 2 more days of touring Bilbao.

MFNYC Mar 3rd, 2022 09:17 AM

Day 9 – I booked a walking tour of the old city for the morning. We had breakfast at a local café, then met up with the tour.

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mercado de la ribera
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Can't get enough of these river reflection photos
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I'm a big fan of rooftop views
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Plaza Nueva
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Fountain of dogs
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Central Library
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Edificio Artklass

Our guide, Sam, invited us to join his afternoon tour which included taking the funicular de artxanda and the basilica.

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View from Artxanda
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Begońako Basilika

Before dinner, we had complementary drinks at the hotel bar (included with the room), then just wandered around the old city, and had dinner in the area. After dinner we spent some time people watching at Plaza Nuevo.

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More Pintxos
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Plaza Nueva at night



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