One week: Segovia/Pedraza; Toledo; Caceres...help me plan
 

Thinking of a week in these places..would fly into Madrid and rent a car for drive to the first stop, not too long of a drive. We will arrive on a Sunday and leave on a Saturday in late April (if I can get reservations).

I would love tips on how to plan this since it is last minute, for me, with only two months or less to plan. We would arrive from the US on a Sunday morning. Then drive to the first stop. Would like to have as few changes of hotels as possible. Should the first night be Pedraza, using this town as a base for exploring Segovia, or vice versa? Which town makes a better base? Is Pedraza dead on a Monday? From this area we would drive either to Caceres or Toledo and spend a few nights in each of these towns, hopefully including one or two nights at the parador in Caceres. The trip would include both but I am not sure of in which order. Then drive either to Madrid airport to return car or into Madrid and drop off the car before spending two nights in the capital. We do not have to "do" Madrid on this trip; I have spent time on several past trips but it might be good to have a night or two there and then go to the airport for the trip back to the US. We are fairly committed to departing on a Saturday night and returning on a Sunday. I have just begun thinking of this trip and so am open to any and all ideas and advice. So, how should I go about planning: In what order? How many nights in each place? Can I work in a visit to El Escorial? Thanks so much!

Here is what I did 3 years ago:

Land Madrid--to Segovia--2 nites
To Avila--see Escorial enroute--1 nite
To Salamanca--2 nites[my fav]
To Toledo--2 nites

The only Parador was in Avila, which is very nice. Good luck !

Pedraza is busy on the weekends, but fairly quiet most nights, including the weekends. It’s a place for people from Madrid to get away and is also a good base to use to visit Segovia. If you want a little more action at night, then you’ll have to stay in Segovia and use it as a base to explore the area, including Pedraza.

It's a long way from Segovia to Caceres, more than 300 kms, about a 4-1/2 hour drive, not including stops. We've done the circuit during a ten-day trip, and believe me, you need more time to cover even a small portion of Extremadura.

You should either concentrate on the Segovia, Pedraza, Avila area and possibly add a day trip to Salamanca before heading back to Madrid, or head straight to Caceres, Merida and head back to Madrid via Guadalupe, spending your last night at the Parador in Oropesa. If you opt to drive to Caceres, then you should spend the night in Madrid and head out after a restful night’s sleep.

There is a train to Caceres which is inexpensive and departs several times a day. The trip takes a little over four hours. That way, you can pick up a rental car when you arrive in Caceres.

Thanks for the fast responses. We do not want to go to Salamanca or Avila (been there in the past). But I would like to include Toledo (my first post may have been unclear on this). How long is the drive from Segovia to Toledo? I was thinking: 2 nights either Segovia or Pedraza (first night is recovering from long plane trip and drive) ; one night Toledo; two nights Caceres; one night Madrid. But now that I write it out it seems like it may not be worth the hassle to go into Madrid for such a short time...maybe better to add one night Oropresa. I could, of course, be convinced to leave out Caceres and add either Salamanca or Madrid. Since this is such short notice for me, compared to the time I usually spend planning, I really appreciate the advice and help that you all have given and, I hope, will continue to give! Thanks. OR: How would you spend this week?

I would do a lot less traveling and enjoy what I have. Pedraza and Segovia, plus Toledo and Madrid, would easily fill my week.

I suggest that you check out the Hospederia Santo Dominto, a Rusticae property, in Pedraza, with a light lunch at Di Vino in Segovia. La Olma de Pedraza is another great restaurant for dinner.

If you're thinking of the Paradores, which I think are wonderful ways to see Spain, you might want to check into them immediately as they do fill up. Check out parador.es. I loved the one in Segovia--very modern (and there is parking), with incredible views of the city (which was walking distance...a long walk though). One of my faovrite restaurants is in Segovia--Restaurante Narizota at Plaza de Medina del Campo--get "the left hand" even though it's too much food, but it's amazing.

If you can't get into the Parador in Toledo, I recommend Hostal Cardenal (which also has parking).

I've never been to Pedraza or Caceres, so can't help you there.

Have a great trip.

Since we would arrive on a Sunday, tired from jet lag, I am thinking that Toledo might be the best first stop for us. So an option would be to rent the car Sunday morning upon arrival and drive to Toledo for two nights. Question: From the parador is a car necessary to get into the city? Is the Hostal Cardenal within easy walk of the city center? What are the pluses and minuses of staying outside the city (views??) as opposed to in the center?

After two nights in Toledo, we could drive to Caceres and spend two nights. (How far of a drive is it from Toledo to Caceres?) Then drive (through Plascencia?) to Segovia/Pedraza (two nights). From there, return to the airport on the next Sunday for the flight home without going into Madrid on this trip. Of course we would have one extra night to play with this way. Any ideas?
My reason for this schedule is that I am thinking that Pedraza, in particular, will be shut tight on Monday and maybe even on Sunday for dinner. (Robert, do you think this is the case? I understand it is a big weekend getaway for Madrilenos) (Food is a big reason for visiting both Segovia and Pedraza for us) What kind of a drive would it be to visit El Escorial from Segovia? Please keep your comments coming as I am kind of flying blind here, not having time to do my usual level of reading and planning and I know I have to reserve soon if I want to get rooms at the paradors in Toledo and Caceres and maybe also in Segovia although there are other good options there, I believe. I should add here that, in addition to food which is very imporant to us, we like to spend our time walking around and just soaking up the ambiance of a place rather than tackling every "sight." And I think Madrid deserves more than two days so I might prefer to visit when I will have more time to spare; as I said, I have been to the city a few times before, and really enjoyed it, I should add. Shopping time is good, too, although I doubt if there is any to speak of on this route. Does it still seem crazy to include Caceres? What are your opinions of the place..I have been there but it was only for lunch at the parador and so long ago it is not all that clear except that the city was spectacularly beautiful and I have always wanted to return. And what about Pedraza? Is it worth arranging the time plan to include this town? Thanks ever so much for all the help so far and I apologize for the barrage of questions.

Just did some research and it does seem that Pedraza should not be visited on Sunday night and Monday, as many places including the castle, are closed and restaurants seem to be open only for lunch on Sunday. So Toledo is looking like a better first stop, and Segovia or Pedraza best for the end of our trip, which would be Friday and Saturday night.

Land Madrid.
Proceed to Toledo.
After your Toledo stay,
proceed on to "Oropesa" for the evening. Stay at the Parador. Fabulous castle!

Then to Trujillo. Wonderful Conquerors of America town.

Then Caceres.

Work your way back up. Go to Segovia/Pedraza and/ or el Escorial on way back. Road takes you past Avila.

Be sure to become "friends of the paradors" .. lots of benefits in the long run.

Am I the only one who thinks a stop in Sepulveda (not far from Pedraza) might be nice??

Have you been there?

No, I have not been to Sepulveda and will put it on the list; how different is it from Pedraza? I am an Amigo already and am very excited to be able to return to the Spain I love. Will look into adding Trujillo; would tht be a good day trip from Caceres? Now have to begin sending out feelers for rooms at these paradors so I want to get the itinerary nailed down very soon.

How does this sound for overnight stays?

Arrive Madrid Barajas..drive to Toledo
2 nights Toledo
2 nights Caceres (Trujillo??)
2 nights Segovia
1 night Pedraza (on a Saturday night)
Drive to Barajas for flight back to US

Aside from the parador, what do you like about Oropresa? Open to any and all ideas..please keep posting. So many thanks, again.

there`s not much in the town. but it makes a nice latish stopover.. if you arrived when the castle is lit up.. wow.. worth every moment.

by the way.. it is right on your route.. no detour. so knowing your room is waiting for you.. let's you stay longer elsewhere.

there is a small castle in MAQUEDA for a photo op.. also, we had a fabulous lunch in talavera de la reina (famous for porcelain ).

i think the restaurant was called, La Cisterna, but will look into it. it was easy to find and excellent food, and considered one of the better restaurants of the region..

depending on how tired you are upon arrival, you could go straight to aranjuez.. the royal palace from the outisde is a fine site. it has a river and if weather is good a wonderful little relaxed town to do a coffee stop in.

It used to be the summer palace of the kings of spain. it is connected to madrid by the river.

the royal naval museum houses the boats used to travel back and forth. they are quite impressive.

from there you have but 30 minutes to toledo or so.(finding your hotel in toledo is another 30 min).

Thanks! I was thinking abut Talavera and wondering if I should plan a stop. I did go to Aranjuez a while back (wonderful) so will not add it to this trip. In Toledo, does staying outside the walls, such as at the parador, mean having to drive into the city? How is the location of Hostal Cardenal? I have been to Toldeo once before but it was about 20 years ago and I have to say I barely remember it.

We stayed at the parador in Toledo and loved it. Yes, it is a ways out of the city and terribly inconvenient if one doesn't have a car. If staying at the parador, you will have to drive to the city - we couldn't figure out any really convenient form of public transportation, other than a taxi. Not sure of the fare. Drive isn't that bad, but parking can be a bit of a hassle if arriving late morning, early afternoon. Not so much in the evenings once the daytrippers leave, though. The views from the parador are amazing, however.

We didn't stay in Caceres, but rather Merida and I would love to go back and really spend some time in Extremadura! It's like this little untold gem in Spain that gets absolutely no attention, which I suppose is a good thing. As opposed to the ultra-touristy Seville thing, one gets to see more of the "real" Spain there. Kinda nice. Personally, I would opt for a couple of nights there to relax and explore at leisure.

Not sure about the drive from Toledo to Caceres, but to Merida (further south) it took us about 4 1/2 hours. (Of course, we got lost getting out of Toledo!) Caceres would be a little shorter than that, perhaps 3 1/2? It is an easy drive, though.

I just wrote to Hostal Cardenal in Toledo (seems to much of a hassle to stay at the parador and have to drive/park into town) and to the Caceres parador. I have no idea how busy the places along my planned route will be in late April so I will wait and see what responses I receive.
About Segovia? Does it make sense to spend two nights here (day trip to Escorial/La Granja?)and another in Pedraza? Pedraza would be our last night, on a Saturday when the town is jumping (from what I read) and then from there we have to drive to Barajas to make a flight back to the US early afternoon. This plan has not included Madrid as you can see; I think that city deserves more than a day or two and the hassle of driving in to return the car seems too much at this point.

And Merida might be a side trip from Caceres.

Because I am so impressed I will report here that less than ten minutes after I e-mailed them, the parador in Caceres responded that they have the dates open. Now THAT is great service!

Be VERY careful with the time alloted to get yoursef back to madrid airport. The highway you will be on is notorious for bumper to bumper stopped traffic certain hours every day and certain hours on the weekends.

plus, if you are going out of the new T 4 at Barajas.. they say at least three hours from when you get there to not miss flights.

Hi there:

Re Caceres and Merida. I visited Extramadura last year and loved it. I have a trip report here which I will top for you.

Regards Ger

Thank you both. Now, with getting to the airport, it will be on a Sunday during the 1 May weekend. We will be driving from Pedraza, our last stop. How much time do I need?

Here is the way the trip is ahping up so far. I know that Robert cautioned about including Caceres because of the distance, but it seems like it wil be not too arduous. Please give me your thoughts on this rough idea:

Sunday..Arrive Madrid, rent car....

Sunday Toledo..Hostal Cardenal or parador (thoughts on these two choices???)
Monday..Toledo
Tuesday..drive from Toledo to Caceres parador
Wednesday.. Caceres parador/visit Trujillo or Merida..night in Caceres
Thursday..drive to Segovia/past Avila...Segovia parador (Los Linajes is full)
Friday..La Granja or El Escorial (doable?) Lamb lunch in Segovia..night at parador
Saturday..drive to Pedraza..lamb lunch in Pedraza or Sepulveda..night in Pedraza
Sunday..drive to Madrid airport for early afternoon flight to NYC.

2 nights Toledo
2 nights Caceres
2 nights Segovia
1 night Pedraza

I can't speak to the drive going back to the airport (let more experienced minds prevail on that one!), but your itinerary is very doable indeed! In fact, I wish I were going! You won't be going into "depth" in Extremadura, but you will get a taste of it. And that time of year? With the friendliness and openess of the people? You'll be hooked. (Ooohh, I'm am just SO jealous!)

Anyway...Parador de Toledo or Hostal Cardenal? It is a tough choice. I really enjoyed our stay at the parador, and relaxing on our terraza overlooking the city in the afternoon with a cool drink. And, in the evening, before going to dinner, watching the city light up and picking out the landmarks. But then, staying inside the city would have meant more convenience. Simply walking outside the hotel and finding different places to eat and not fussing with driving the car or parking. For me, it truly is a toss up, and since I've done one (the parador), I would stay in the city if I were to go back. I guess the things I could say to sway some one might be: 1. Hostal Cardenal does have parking available, 2. If one has a car anyway, one can always drive outside the city and get the same view as they would from the parador, and 3. I would suggest visiting the parador for lunch, perhaps. This way you could get the best of both worlds.

Thanks..this is a bit of a toss up. From what I read, the rooms at Cardenal are not so great; on Trip Advisor people complained that even with its location, it was still a long walk to the "sights." A friend stayed at the parador and told me he had no problem walking into town (far walk from all other accounts).....parador seems much nicer; Cardenal has the better location. We had the same dilemma in Segovia between parador outside town and hotel in city (Los Linares) but the Linares is full so we booked the Segovia parador. Any other opinions on this "dilemma" for Toledo?? Is it easy to find taxis from the parador if we don't want the hassle of driving/parking near town? How easy is it to find parking nearer to the sights, in case we stay at the parador?? Thanks so much, everyone, for your advice!

There are no taxis waiting for passengers at the parador in Toledo. The parador staff could summon a taxi for you, but it would require some time to wait for one to arrive. (Not sure of the time involved)

Um, Toledo is comprised of narrow, twisting, maze-like, oneway (for the most part) streets. There is a street that sort of runs the perimeter of the city that is somewhat heavily traveled. But it has very limited areas for one to pull to the side. However, there simply is no parking near the sights in Toledo. That is, if you could find the sights while driving with a car! :) The places to park we saw were either part of hotels on the edge of the city, such as Hostal Cardenal, or underground lots that were also on the edge of the city.

Either which way, when you go to Toledo, just be prepared to walk. You will do a lot of it, trust me!

Thanks for the help. I have been to Toledo in the past and I know what the city is like...twisting roads and all. What I would like to know is how long of a walk is it from the parador to the old city? And by car, is it easy to drive from the parador to a parking area that is closer to the old city than the parador. I realize that you cannot enter inside the walls. All of these questions are to help me decide in which of two hotels to stay: The parador for the views and comfort, or the Cardenal for the convenience of being closer to the sights. And while I am on the subject, I would love recs for eating in the city..good regional food. I am fluent in Spanish and have sense of adventure so no fear of going off the beaten tourist path for good eats! Thanks so much!

The Parador is on the hillside overlooking Toledo. Perfect for an outstanding view of the city and the surrounding countryside, but I don't believe most people would consider it within easy walking distance of the city.

Robert, so what do you think about getting to the city from the parador? Easy to drive and park someplace (underground garage)? Parador can phone taxi if we do not drive but are there taxi stands for the ride back? I hope you all are not thinking I am so lazy or infirm; I don't mind walking a mile or so but do not want an hour's hike to get into town. We will arrive after long flight and drive on the first day so do some sightseeing then and most of it the next day.

Update on rest of plan: Have reservations at Parador in Caceres, two nights; then one night parador Segovia; two nights Pedraza Santo Domingo. (Cannot book one night only on weekends)

I'm with Nedsireland [?]. Sepulveda is a great place to get an understanding of real life. Have lunch at Posada de Tinin el Mayor. Right downtown in what appears to be a 3-400 year old building.[beware- his son "el minor" also has a place. You simply sit down and the bring leg of lamb from the igloo oven along with a huge salad and wine. More than you can eat. It's geat - no decisions. Juan Carlos is reputed to be a regular client.

IMO, the paradores in both Toledo and Segovi are overrated. Both are away form town. They are great if you want to touch your toe into local life and then go back to 2006 comfort. However, I'd suggest Cardenal in Toledo and either Linares or Infanta Isabel in Segovia. BTW: From Cardenal take a $5 cab ride up the hill, tour the city and then catch the tram that circles the city and just tell them you want to get off at the Cardenal which is near the end of the loop. Cardenal is one of my favorites anywhere. Comfortable but not stuffy.

MLKy thoughts on Pedraza: A beautiful town with one othe great artisans I came across: the silver/pewtersmith. Spent the night there and was lucky enough to find microwaved stuffed pimentoes to share with a German couple who were the only other people in town. You could have shot a cannon down the street and not hit a soul. Don't miss it but don't stay there.

About Toledo: I am confused: you say take a taxi from Cardenal to the top of the city? I was considering this place cause it is nearer to the sights than the parador!!

The situation in Pedraza is confusing. I think it is dead during the week and packed on weekends. And the weekend we will be there is the one before May 1. I could not book only one night in Santo Domingo in Pedraza; had to commit to two nights which I did, which tells me they are expecting lots of people that weekend. They are very nice and helpful by e-mail.

In Segovia Linares is full. And since I will be two nights in Pedraza I ony have one in Segovia. So it may be the parador after all. We will arrive from Caceres, visit the city and have dinner, most likely at Jose Maria. Next day, visit Segovia again (or La Granja) then drive to late lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda; I cannot miss this place after reading about it from you and also in Penelope Casas excellent book, Discovering Spain.

From Sepulveda, drive to Pedraza for overnight. Next day could be La Granja or remain in Pedraza. We are trying to book for lunch at El Yantar, recommended by both Penelope Casas and Maribel in her guide. Boy, does she love Segovia and its region!

Chele I apologize to you because you had already answered my questions about the Toledo parador earlier; I have to put it down to my fading memory and excitement about the upcoming trip. I read your very helpful report about your trip; thank you!
so far I have not had response from Toledo parador so will wait and see. Such problems!! Thanks again to Weber and everyone else who has been so helpful.

The parador in Toledo will be under "remodelations" from Aptil 06 until summer 07. So I booked at Cardenal.

Segovia: my favorite visiting city in Spain.

Good walk: Start at the aqueducto in the morning (10 a.m.). Climb around (but don't actually walk on it!), enjoy the plaza (especially if the sun is beating down), check and make sure you have a reservation for lunch at Cándido (if you back is to the aqueducto, it is on your left, right in front of it), then head up the street (there are a few streets, but when you are there, you should know which one is "the" street. . . I never knew the name) to the Cathedral.

Go inside (you will need a coat for this if you aren't already wearing one), take the tour if you can, enjoy the interior/exterior contrasts, then head out to the plaza for coffee at the place that is on your right, next to the candy store (again, I have no name). Keep walking (this time down) the street, passing by a store called Coscojo. Check out the amazing plaster pieces they do. Get all the way to the Alcázar. Look familiar? It's the Snow White castle (if you have a car, I suggest driving out and getting the approaching view, which for me was tear-filled). Go inside and visit. Take your time and go into every room possible. Try the doors! Check out the view of the Mt. range, and the little farm houses that dot the countryside.

Once outside you can take a taxi back (if you find one), but the walk is really worth it because you want to be hungry when you hit Cándido. Their cochinillo is amazing (I prefer it to the lamb. . . it is what they are known for), and for dessert their helado de mantecado is perfect. Perfect in that not too sweet, creamy but not fatty, hints of cinnamon, but not too much. . . just right perfect.

Claire

Claire thank you so much! I will take this with me. I am looking forward to the sucking pig and the lamb in the Segovia area, you cannot imagine how much!!! I ate at Candido about 20 years ago and remember it as one of the most memorable meals I have ever had. Did you visit La Granja? I may have to make a decision between seeing the palace and having lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda. For anyone else this wold be an easy decision but not for me!! What do you, or others, think about La Granja..will I be sorry if I do not go?

Re Taxi from Cardenal to the "sights". Old Toledo lis on a hilltop. Cardenal is at the bottom of the hill but really only 4-5 blocks. However, it's a tough 4-5 blocks going up hill. It is definitely walkable but a bit of grind.

Thanks, Weber. I booked into Cardenal for the two nights.

Update: Due to unforseen circumstances (fraternity reunion which travel partner "must" attend), trip has been pushed forward two weeks. Caceres parador has room available for only one of our nights. So itinerary now reads:

2 nights..Toledo--Hostal Cardenal..
1 night Trujillo..Parador
1 night Caceres..Parador
1 night Segovia..Parador or Los Linajes (??)
2 nights Pedraza..Santo Domingo (lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda and at El Yantar in Pedraza)

Any comments about La Granja? I will either be able to have lunch at Tinin or visit La Granja; I am leaning toward the first option.

I am probably not the best guy to give an opinion on La Granja. It was a dreary and somewhat snowy March day and it left me a bit "cold" - in both senses of the word. If you are a "people" person looking for insights in the Spanish life, I'd go for Tinin. If architecture, etc is more your interest, I'd probably opt for La Granja.

ekscrunchy- true story. My host family took me to Cándido during my year abroad so that I would have the experience of their suckling pig. I loved it and when I got home, after a year of not seeing my family, I was telling my grandfather about all I had seen. I said "Oh, and we went to Segovia." He perked up and said "I hope you ate at Cándido. It is right by the acueduct and has really good pig. In fact, I have a picture of your grandmother and I there a while back." Well, he got out the picture and, lo and behold, they were at the same table my hosts and I were (you could tell by the view out the window). I showed him my picture and it was a really emotional moment. Mind you, my grandfather at the time really didn't remember my name, so the fact that he remembered the restaurant shows how special it was to him.

Claire

Thank you, Weber! I was leaning to Tinin and you have helped assuage some of my guilt! I have looked at their web site and have been thinking about the lamb with increasing enthusiasm, and increasing appetite!

We stayed at Hostal Cardenal and loved it. I thought the rooms were lovely and the grounds were really fantastic AND they have parking. We walked into town and I don't recall it being that long a walk.

Have a great trip and please report back to us.

Claire that story was very moving about your grandfather. You know, I also ate at Candido many years ago and I have a very clear memory of the place, much clearer than I do of the rest of Segovia! Maybe there is something about a food memory that lingers after others have faded! Well you all have been such a big help to me. I will surely report back..we are going in May, I already have the reservations for lunch at Cardenal (right after we arrive so we will be tired from the flight and drive to Toledo) and for lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda and at El Yantar in Pedraza! Hope to bring home lots of food memories and othr kinds as well!

2 nights Cardenal (Toledo)
1 night Parador (Trujillo)
1 night Parador (Caceres)
1 night Segovia..(Parador or Los Linajes)
2 nights Santo Domingo (Pedraza) (have to book two nights on weekends)

I have been reading about the villages in the Las Hurdes and La Vera Valleys and they sound lovely. Not sure if we have time to drive through either of these areas but would love to hear if anyone has been and what their impressions are.

See Bunuel's "tierra sin pan" (land without bread) before doing the Hurdes! Very interesting.

Claire

I will see if I can rent this on www.netflix.com. If you have been there, let me know what you think, ok? Muchisimas gracias, Claire.

La Tierra Sin Pan is not on DVD but I can reserve it on tape at my library and I will. Surprisingly, there is a wait for it. I know nothing about this area of Spain but was intrigued to read the description in both Cadogan's Spain guide and in Penelope Casas book, Discovering Spain. I like both of these books a lot. Fodors does not cover Extremadura in their Spain guide.