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Love your photos of Lake Maggiore. Do you have a preference? Lake Maggiore or Lake Como? It must have been chilly at Lake Maggiore. I notice people wearing long pants and jackets. Doesn't seem like it was really hot at Lake Como, either. Am I right about that? Did you have any scorching heat? I know weather is different from year to year but it looks like we should pack some warm-weather clothing and cool-weather clothing for our trip next May.
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Another great report. Following along.
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Karen, Lake Como and Lake Maggiore are very different experiences, both uniquely charming - the latter without the crowds. At Como, it was t-shirt & shorts friendly weather. At Maggiore, it got cold only when the weather turned due to unseasonal rain. With global climate change, it makes sense to be prepared for anything.
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maitaitom, glad to see you here.
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ANUJ - enjoying your report. We're planning a winter trip to some of the areas you covered and although a return visit, we're overwhelmed with the options.
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Melnq8 - thank you for following. I've enjoyed all your TRs and contributions on this forum, as well. Indeed - so many choices !
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Day 7 : Final day in Stresa
We woke up to overcast skies this morning. As we had abandoned the Lago Maggiore Express excursion, we debated alternate plans over breakfast. Two choices emerged :
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91793ece4d.jpg Piazza Matteoti in Stresa https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ca39cb5ef.jpg Piazza Possi in Stresa https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16ee1e6251.jpg Lane in Stresa The first section is easy and follows a flat route (signboarded “Panoramic Path” at some point) along the shores of Lake Maggiore, and leading to Carciano (a suburb of Stresa). We enjoyed this walk, with beautiful lakeside views. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bddfc4bb9a.jpg Paasing by the Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromee https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34c3d89706.jpg Views of Isola Bella, while walking along the panoramic path https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c231a821f.jpg Views of Lake Maggiore from the panoramic path https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a17161d5af.jpg Reaching Carciano https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ebc974b61.jpg From Carciano, views of Isola dei Pescatori By now it had started to drizzle, and having come as far we decided to continue onwards. The next section involved a steep climb up a little road behind Villa Amiata. We then walked through woods, crossing over multiple streams and waterfalls along the way, and were positively drenched. The rain had gotten worse – we finally reached Roncaro by the Oratory of the Blessed virgin of the Addolorota. We continued along the via Panoramica towards Romanico, completing an eventual descent into Baveno. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...597ad3d2c0.jpg Finally Roncaro (we weren't lost) ! The Oratory of the Blessed virgin of the Addolorota We strolled around Baveno, which wore a deserted look due to the rain. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baec02e9a3.jpg Piazza della Chiesa in Baveno https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a71c8d2c74.jpg Piazza della Chiesa in Baveno https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5eb80f9ec5.jpg Around Baveno https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f6f00b506.jpg Views of Lake Maggiore from Baveno https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9c7eb7eb4.jpg We seemed the only 2 people around ! We finally took the local bus back to Stresa. Piedmont has experienced drought-like conditions in recent years, but that day witnessed record unseasonal rainfall. We slept to the sound of continuous rain through the night, with unexpected consequences for us the following day. |
Uh-oh...
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Love your photos of your walk to Baveno even though it was raining.
Uh-oh, my sentiments exactly. Eagerly awaiting to find out what happened. |
Day 8 : Turin
This morning, we were scheduled to leave Stresa for Turin. We were on a regional train to Rho Fiera Milan, with a change to a superfast Frecce train to Turin. At breakfast, I noticed an ominous (all Italian!) email in my inbox from Trenitalia. Due to the heavy rains, a section of our Frecce rail route (around Vicenza – Padua, our train originated in Venice) had been flooded, and we faced a risk of delay or cancellation. We were to spend a night in Turin, and pickup our rental car the next morning. Any dislocation here potentially had a domino effect on the rest of our trip.
We reached Rho Fiera and sat dejected on the (deserted) platform prepared for a long and unpredictable wait. Suddenly, the previous frecce train for our same route pulls in, a full 3 hours late. The conductor stepped out and let us board this train! Miraculously we arrived in Turin, on schedule, as though nothing ever happened. We dropped off our bags at our B&B, and set off on foot to explore the city. Starting at the Piazza San Carlo, we walked down Via Roma, the high street for luxury shopping. We popped in at the Galleria San Federico, a shopping arcade, which also houses one of the oldest cinemas in Italy, the Cinema Lux (opened in 1934). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0110b1501.jpg By the equestrain monument at Pza San Carlo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1406558a64.jpg via Roma https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f74e72475.jpg via Roma https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9bcd7da15.jpg Galleria San Federico, with the Cinema Lux A short distance away was the Museo Egizio the world’s largest collection of Egyptian artefacts outside Cairo. With just the day in Turin, we decided to skip it and spend time outdoors. We also visited the church of San Filipo Neri next door, with its baroque interiors. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e93f9074fc.jpg Outside the museum https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab2222c370.jpg The museum courtyard https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1710effc2c.jpg Outside S Filipo Neri https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b19395fae2.jpg Inside S Filipo Neri We walked past Piazza Carignano, and entered Piazza Carlo Alberto, eventually leading to Piazza Castello. Turin has so many squares with stunning architecture! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f5c3d1675.jpg Piazza Carignano https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c41fd11ff3.jpg Piazza Carlo Alberto https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9022311de4.jpg Piazza Carlo Alberto https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd53422b46.jpg Passing through the Galleria Subalpina (built in 1873), designed as a bazaar https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b8a457f2e.jpg A vintage tram pulls near the Palazzo Madama on Piazza Castello, We eventually made our way towards Palazzo Reale, the 16th century palace of the Savoys, and visited the Turin Cathedral nearby. This is home to the Shroud of Turin (believed to be the burial cloth of Jesus), but it’s no longer available for public display. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46f4036191.jpg Palazzo Reale https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b1a25f222.jpg Palazzo Reale courtyard https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2da5d2488f.jpg Gardens of Palazzo Reale, designed by André Le Nôtre, who also created the gardens at Versailles https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e658d04c2.jpg Roman ruins nearby https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8dbe4b0c8a.jpg The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, with belltower https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72b5b42753.jpg Inside the Cathedral [TO BE CONTINUED] |
So happy to hear you were able to get to Turin! I don't know anything about Turin, except for the Shroud of Turin, but it looks lovely. I especially like the photo of the Piazza Carignano. Love the colors of the buildings, so warm and earthy and soothing. And the Galleria Subalpina! So beautiful!
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Thank you Karen. On a day where most train travelers in Italy faced utter chaos, we came through unscathed. Nothing short of a miracle.
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Day 8 : Turin (contd.)
Later that evening, we decided to visit Café Al Bicerin. This is where Bicerin was invented - a traditional hot drink native to Turin, made of espresso, drinking chocolate, and milk served layered in a small glass. Very interesting flavour!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5e08147ff.jpg Outside the cafe https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...814d5320f6.jpg For €8, I was expecting a larger glass ! Bang opposite the café, is Santuario della Consolata or as the locals call it "La Consla", The facade hides a remarkable baroque interior. It brought back memories of the Pantheon in Rome. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05a1f292fe.jpg The neo-classical facade of Santuario della Consolata https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a5bda4c60.jpg And its belltower https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c276ecf51b.jpg Inside We stopped by Eataly for an early supper. We’ve enjoyed our meals at other franchises in Italy before, this one was somewhat disappointing (we’re vegetarians). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a07fd9677.jpg At Eataly https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbd623e19b.jpg Aesthetic dining area Our final stop was the most famous building in Turin – the 170m high Mole Antonelliana. Built as a Jewish Synagogue but never used as such, today it houses the Museo Nazionale del Cinema. Its major attraction is the panoramic elevator that takes you to the top of the tower, with sweeping views of the city. We were so enamoured by Turin, we had lost track of time and reached there only post 7pm, to find it closed already. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c18b5145d1.jpg Near the Mole https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b112bcf2b.jpg The Mole towers over Turin, and is visible from most spots Turin is not just the capital of the Piedmont region, but also the 3rd largest city in Italy. It has rich history, elegant architecture (felt like we were in France) and a vibrant cultural scene, but remains outside the tourist radar. Like Bergamo, we were very impressed with Turin and glad we spent a night there, before picking up our rental car next morning. |
Day 9 : Onward to Asti
Today marked the start of our roadtrip into the heart of Piedmont. We had reserved our rental car with Budget at the Turin airport (wider availability of automatics) via AutoEurope. It was our first ever experience with Budget, but it worked our perfectly (it’s the same counter and service standards as Avis, the parent company). We received a mid-sized Hyundai hybrid hatchback – perfect for country roads and squeezing into tight parking spaces.
Asti is only an hour’s drive from Turin, but we consciously took a much longer route meandering through the countryside. Our first stop was the Basilica of Superga. It has an interesting history : in a small church, located on the top of a hill outside Turin, the Duke Vittorio Amedeo II kneeled in front of a Virgin Mary’s wooden sculpture and promised to build a bigger church in her honour, if he won against his enemies. He eventually triumphed against the French army, and kept his promise. Designed in baroque style, the church interiors are awe-inspiring. The wooden sculpture of the “Madonna delle Grazie”, in front of which he prayed in 1706 is still preserved here. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1076190e68.jpg Parking our car, first views https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d818860d51.jpg Outside the basilica https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42af9eb035.jpg Inside https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cac0f2bf9.jpg Looking up at the dome https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9d6c66d6a.jpg Views of Turin from belvedere, if you zoom in you can notice the Mole Antonelliana roughly in the centre of the photo Our second stop was Cocconato – counted among the I Borghi più belli d'Italia ("The most beautiful villages of Italy"). Due to Cocconato’s unique micro-climate, it has palm trees growing beside olive trees – I wonder if that has something to do with the unusual name – Cocconato ? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c208348318.jpg Strolling around the village https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd2da0239e.jpg By the church https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...389de56682.jpg Views of valley https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a7ebb61b7.jpg Rooftops Our third stop was Vignale Monferrato, another pretty little village with stellar views. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b974e01aa5.jpg Approaching Vignale Monferrato https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d9159173e.jpg Rooftops https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26767e0b2d.jpg Views of the valley https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2332a3fc8.jpg Garden in Vignale Our final stop was Moncalvo, again with great views of the agricultural landscape and vineyards surrounding it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13bca9e7d7.jpg Strolling along the (only) main street in Moncalvo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7b21f9881.jpg Around Moncalvo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...072cac2bf6.jpg The local church https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43c5164825.jpg Views of valley from near the church We finally arrived in Asti, and met our friendly Airbnb host who checked us in. We enjoyed our chat, and he left us with a lot of ideas (and free parking advice!). The rain seemed to have followed us to Asti, so we stayed mostly indoors that evening. We had all of the next day to explore Asti itself after all. Thankfully, the weather improved going forward. |
Day 10 : Asti
The morning was bright and sunny, so we were relieved that the worst of our weather woes seemed behind us.
It was market day in Asti, so we wandered around the stalls that had spilled across two squares - Piazza Alfieri and Piazza Liberta. We also visited the nearby covered market. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce19087b8b.jpg The street market https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0352dbe7e4.jpg The covered market Armed with a map from the tourist office, we set off to explore the town. it’s really a single pedestrian street (Corso Vittorio Alfieri) running through the heart of the historic centre with most sights clustered along or around it. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...697f665e2e.jpg Starting our walk down Corso Alfieri https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9320b172c7.jpg Cafes spilling onto narrow lanes Asti boasts of several beautiful squares, palazzos and medieval towers. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05d75ece57.jpg Piazza Medici and Torre Troyana, the tallest tower in Asti https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cdd750e463.jpg Piazza Roma with Palazzo Mazzetti (the Civic Museum and Art Gallery is inside) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e3f8d8115.jpg Palazzo Alfieri https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d5a0efb6f.jpg The Chiesa Santa Caterina and the Torre Rossa, towards the end of Corso Alfieri We visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Gottardo – the largest church in all of Piedmont. It seemed like there were some major festivities that weekend – lots of folk from neighboring towns had descended upon Asti. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9267e69e4d.jpg Outside https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92685d92fa.jpg Inside We retraced back towards the Parco Della Reistenza, wandering through the little lanes in Asti. The park is close to the Piazza Campo Del Palio, which now serves as a gigantic parking lot (occupied by stalls today) but was historically the venue for the Asti palio (horse race). More recently, the palio has shifted to the (much smaller) Piazza Alfieri in the heart of the city! I can imagine it must be chaotic. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cb4eadb86.jpg Wine is everywhere ! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f43b97ec6.jpg Through the many lanes of Asti https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f5f0110a6.jpg Through the many lanes of Asti https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10c67f7d25.jpg The Piazza Campo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21a1acf8c9.jpg The park Asti is charming, and we enjoyed our 2 nights there as a sneak preview of what to expect from Piedmont. |
You are really making me miss Piemonte. (: Hopefully making back there in Fall 2025. Great stuff and looking forward to more.
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KarenWoo I don’t know if or anyone else in the forum is aware but Bergamo had over one million visitors last year and those numbers are going up and compared to 2019 it’s almost double le that years numbers. Just a warning. Bergamo being a small city by international standards it’s A LOT of people for a city of 120,000 residents and like other Italian cities overrun by tourism the locals, while happy there’s a lot of tourism they’re also unhappy with the amounts and being overwhelmed by it all.
@ OP- there’s actually three parts to Bergamo. Città Bassa, Città Alta and San Vigilio which is above Città Alta and definitely worth a walk around and many tourists bypass it or don’t even know about it. Too bad you missed it. |
Our young neighbor just won some speed-skating event held in Bergamo a few months ago. Seems it was her personal best.
Guessing winter sports are an attraction there too. I am done. the skates |
ANUJ!!!!
Spectacular!!!! We keep going south....time for us to revisit the north....you are an inspiration!!!! Mille grazie!!!! |
maitaitom, your trip report and advice were the inspiration for my trip! Stay tuned, your favourite location in Piedmont follows soon.
happy_traveler_too, appreciate the additional colour on Bergamo. Actually, if you scroll further down the Bergamo instalment of my TR, we did visit San Vigilio by the funicular (for the castle and the iconic views) and Ive covered this in some detail. zebec and ekscrunchy, thank you for your comments and continued interest in my TR. |
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