|
Northern Italy May 2024 : Lombardy, Piedmont and Liguria
It's no secret that Italy is one of our favourite holiday destinations in Europe. After travel resumed post-Covid, my wife and I returned to Italy twice, heading south - Sicily and Calabria (September 2022) and Puglia, Basilicata and Cilento (October 2023). This summer we shifted our attention northward.
Our itinerary over 3 weeks (evenly split, roughly a week in each segment) included: Lakes: Lake Como (the only one we've visited before), Lake Maggiore (+Orta) with a city break in Bergamo, relying on trains and ferries. Countryside: A roadtrip from Turin, into the heart of the Monferrato and Langhe areas of Piedmont. This was a completely new region for us, inspired by this forum, thank you to all the contributors incl maitaitom. Coast : Filling a few gaps from prior travels in Liguria (we've been to Genoa and the Cinque Terre previously in 2017), relying on public transport. Our itinerary and pacing reflects our "active" travel style, as many of you know. I will try and post this trip report in tranches over the next few weeks, and hope this will be helpful reference, especially for the less frequented locations in this mix. |
Originally Posted by ANUJ
(Post 17569044)
It's no secret that Italy is one of our favourite holiday destinations in Europe. After travel resumed post-Covid, my wife and I returned to Italy twice, heading south - Sicily and Calabria (September 2022) and Puglia, Basilicata and Cilento (October 2023). This summer we shifted our attention northward.
Our itinerary over 3 weeks (evenly split, roughly a week in each segment) included: Lakes: Lake Como (the only one we've visited before), Lake Maggiore (+Orta) with a city break in Bergamo, relying on trains and ferries. Countryside: A roadtrip from Turin, into the heart of the Monferrato and Langhe areas of Piedmont. This was a completely new region for us, inspired by this forum, thank you to all the contributors incl maitaitom. Coast : Filling a few gaps from prior travels in Liguria (we've been to Genoa and the Cinque Terre previously in 2017), relying on public transport. Our itinerary and pacing reflects our "active" travel style, as many of you know. I will try and post this trip report in tranches over the next few weeks, and hope this will be helpful reference, especially for the less frequented locations in this mix. |
Count me in for the ride ANUJ, thanks for taking the time to write a TR. Despite several trips to Italy I haven’t been tempted to visit the lakes, though my sister who’s my travel companion has been pushing for it. While I love nature and the wide open spaces I also want history and architecture. Hopefully you’re TR will persuade me otherwise…
|
Day 1 : Varenna
We landed at Milan Malpensa airport around 10am. A quick baggage retrieval and exit later, we were on board the 10.43am Malpensa Express to Milan Centrale. We bought physical tickets for the regional train to Varenna Esino at the Milan Centrale station. I had not bought my tickets online (like my intercity and high speed ones) only because
We reached Varenna around noon and checked into our B&B, relaxing for a bit. We last visited Varenna in 2005, and it was a joy to relive some of our fondest memories. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77bbbed1e1.jpg Near the ferry terminal, beautiful view of snow clad mountains in the backdrop https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69bc347e16.jpg We walked along the pedestrian pathway skirting the lake ..... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9e4f9ca00.jpg .. sandwiched between narrow lanes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1d322ffa1.jpg .. and the lake itself We visited the beautiful Villa Monastero. Founded on the site of a former women’s monastery, the Villa includes a magnificent terraced garden, where many rare botanical species from across the world thrive owing to the mild climate. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf8731bd1e.jpg Views from the Villa https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ce8fec8ed.jpg Strolling through the gardens https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...023b32ff85.jpg Lakeside views https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4224eb1c5c.jpg By the fountain https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2c66ed391.jpg By the museum We then climbed our way up (the rather steep path) to Castle Vezio, exercising our legs and lungs in equal measure. The panoramic terrace and watchtower offered sweeping views over Varenna and the lake. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad3c02ef0e.jpg Entering the castle https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a6db64f2a.jpg Aerial view of Varenna https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e31f9be604.jpg Inside the watchtower, climbing the narrow staircase to the top https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...102c80ac63.jpg Outside the watchtower https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbf551522e.jpg Castle grounds We descended back to Varenna by the (better, but stony) path leading to the port. After an early dinner, we slept well following a long day of travel (and hectic activity). |
WeisserTee, we had a week in Piedmont, and spent 1 night in Turin itself. The next morning, we picked up our car rental and moved base to Asti (2N), Alba (1N) and La Morra (4N). Our focus was the countryside, so we progressively moved closer to the "action".
geetika, I hope the first instalment has whet your appetite. Stay tuned, lots to come ! |
Day 2 : Varenna, Out on the Lake
After breakfast, we lined up at the Navigazione Laghi (the public ferry service provider) ticket counter in Varenna before 9am. A long queue was already ahead of us! I cannot imagine what this must be like in peak summer! We bought a €15 day pass allowing unlimited travel in the mid-lake.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...983c7c7e24.jpg Leaving Varenna on the ferry https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23a144b87d.jpg Approaching Bellagio Our first stop was Bellagio. Nestled at the tip of a promontory where Lake Como "splits" into 2 branches, Bellagio has an enviable location. With its boutique-lined cobblestone streets, narrow lanes, villas and gardens, it's easy to see why its a tourist magnet. It has certainly got a lot busier since our last visit. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf2b753322.jpg Along the lungomare leading to Villa Melzi https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...330df7e2db.jpg Views of Bellagio from the lungomare https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d58751be4.jpg Exploring the narrow alleys : Salita Serbelloni https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d54c336f65.jpg Exploring the narrow alleys : Salita Antonio Mella https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1a828fda8.jpg Exploring the town https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7921a3f381.jpg Parchetto della Punta - a park at the tip of Bellagio https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a556ae7750.jpg Parchetto della Punta - a park at the tip of Bellagio Bellagio is also home to the botanical gardens of Villa Melzi. We didn't go inside, but relished some views from the ferry. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9854465bc9.jpg Views from the water : Villa Melzi https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0179bb4f25.jpg Views from the water Our next brief stop was Tremezzo/Villa Carlotta. We were told the flowers were not in bloom due to the weather, so we skipped going inside. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5899cfc0f0.jpg Arriving in Tremezzo https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23b4d4ef06.jpg Outside Villa Carlotta Our final stop was Menaggio. Menaggio sits in the heart of Lake Como, at the beginning of a wide valley that connects Lake Como to Lake Lugano. It has a beautiful promenade, and is nowhere as crowded as Bellagio and Varenna. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...552522df26.jpg Arriving into Menaggio https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a24cf8323.jpg The town square https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b88afc861.jpg Charming lanes https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78fed49e55.jpg Strolling around the centre https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea577870b0.jpg Along the promenade We got back to Varenna by evening, calling it an early night after another eventful day. |
I am enjoying your report and photos. We are planning a trip to central and northern Italy for May 2025. We plan on spending 4 nights in Varenna, and also hope to visit Bergamo as a daytrip from Milan. How many nights did you stay in Varenna? What is the name of your B&B? Were you happy with your stay there? A lot of people like Hotel Du Lac (one of the places I am considering) but I did see a negative review. And what was the weather like?
|
Karen, we spent 3 nights in Varenna, our base for Lake Como, We stayed at the B&B Il Bolentino, in a supremely convenient location between the train station and the ferry terminal and run by a wonderful Italian couple (who speak very little English). We had good weather all 3 days, mostly bright and sunny.
|
ANUJ, we loved Lake Maggiore and Bergamo, and each time we do a north Italy trip, I find myself wishing I was also going here…or there… so much to see.
We have only stayed in the very north of Lake Como, and that was fabulous. I’ll be following along. |
Thank you Adelaidean, am enjoying your ongoing France & Switzerland TR as well !
|
DAY 3 : Varenna, Visit to Lugano
After an early breakfast, we took the ferry from Varenna to Menaggio. The C12 public bus conveniently connects Menaggio (Italy) with Lugano (Switzerland). We had already bought (return) tickets the previous day, and boarded the 10.40am bus to Lugano.
Its a pleasant one-hour bus ride, initially through hillside eventually leading to the shores of Lake Lugano. Remember to carry your passports, which are checked at the border crossing. Lugano is the largest city in southern Switzerland’s Italian-speaking Ticino region. The Swiss-Mediterranean potpourri of cultures is very visible in its architecture and cuisine. The bus dropped us near the train station, and we descended into the city by the stairs. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b20e849b6b.jpg First glimpse, heading down the stairs https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b964075984.jpg By the San Lorenzo cathedral We strolled around the town centre, before hitting the promenade. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be8ee3ddfb.jpg Market day in Lugano https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f03cbf6524.jpg A beautiful piazza https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...022a272ff8.jpg Along Via Nessa, the high street lined with luxury retail stores We walked along the promenade enjoying the views, all the way till the Parco Ciani. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7c9409db5.jpg At the promenade https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a266a22b3c.jpg Views of Lake Lugano https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f462c5b3bb.jpg Paddleboats in the lake https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebe0b14b83.jpg Near the casino https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e30125dac2.jpg In the park (Ciani) We returned by bus and were back in Varenna by evening. We enjoyed one last stroll on our final day in beautiful Varenna. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8785b931a.jpg View of ferry terminal from the high road over Varenna https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc8bda0102.jpg The town square https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9770c6ef6.jpg The charming little lanes https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05f4622e8a.jpg View of the own from the high road over Varenna |
Your photos are gorgeous! We also are planning a trip to Northern Italy for 2025 and your report is very helpful.
We typically rent an apartment for a month in a charming small town and “live like locals”. A couple people have suggested Bergamo so I am anxious to read about your experience! |
Day 4 : Bergamo
We left Varenna early, with a slightly convoluted connection to Bergamo (2 trains and a bus due to railway line work!). Upon arrival in Bergamo, we bought a few local transport tickets (usable on the buses and funiculars for 75 mins post validation) from the newsstand at the station.
We checked into our very comfortable (airbnb) apartment in Bergamo (about 400m away from station). Our friendly host checked us in and gave us useful advice. Bergamo is a two-tiered city : up on the hills is the Città Alta (Upper Town) with a medieval centre, while down below is the Città Bassa (Lower Town), which is the modern town. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...346d75a785.jpg View from our apartment in Citta Bassa, Alta visible in backdrop Our first order of business was Citta Alta, the historic centre perched on a hill. We boarded the bus to Alta but were abruptly offloaded at the funicular base station, as roads to Alta were closed due to a cycling event. There were serpentine queues at the funicular, so we decided to climb by foot to save time. It wasn’t so strenuous after all. Citta Alta is surrounded by 17th century defensive walls, fortified by the Venetian Republic. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d273202c3d.jpg The walls https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f004850b7e.jpg View of Bassa from Alta https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64168f609c.jpg Entering via the old town gate (Porta San Giacomo) We felt transported back in time on entering the Citta Alta, with beautiful architecture and narrow lanes. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...732d302e84.jpg Near the Alta funicular station https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c0361a4aa.jpg Old market hall https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ee970c218.jpg Narrow lanes We headed towards the Piazza Vecchia, the heart of Citta Alta. We enjoyed exploring every delightful nook and cranny. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b717df8e4b.jpg At Pza Vecchia https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10c9e57488.jpg At Pza Vecchia https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d90dc1936e.jpg Bascilica & Colleoni chapel https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...77677b1ba4.jpg Inside https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf14a33a08.jpg Cathedral https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c78426968.jpg Inside We then took the 2nd funicular further upto San Viglio to visit the castle and enjoy the iconic views. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57e8ec4b05.jpg The iconic birds eye view of Bergamo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6d04bb118.jpg The castle grounds https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee9fde5a63.jpg With lookout points/watctowers like this ... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8bca78cd8.jpg ..... offering views of the valley We returned to Alta by the funicular for a much-needed refuelling break, after all the walking! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a136ac6f3.jpg Back in Citta Alta https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab63b54261.jpg A harp plays https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d3f166610.jpg At La Marianna, the pioneer of stracciatella gelato https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a4d39b727.jpg At the famous bakery Il Fornaio We returned to the Citta Bassa by the funicular, and took bus back to our airbnb. The Citta Bassa is also very well planned with wide avenues and expansive piazzas. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da76f87cee.jpg Back in Citta Bassa, by Porta Nuova https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f41a6ea2f7.jpg Beautiful courtyard near the theatre https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d34d4d3e8d.jpg Piazza Pontida https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa211193fc.jpg The shopping street Via XX Septembre We planned a city break in Bergamo as a "palate cleanser" as we transitioned between two lakes : from Como to Maggiore, However, it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip - and surprisingly still remains under the mainstream tourist radar. |
Irice, hope that Bergamo instalment was helpful. It's a fascinating city. As we only spent a night and relied on public transport getting to and from there, I can't really opine on its suitability as a base for a longer period (also depends on how it fits with your overall itinerary, it's certainly well positioned for the lakes).
|
ANUJ, your photos are beautiful and your commentary about Bergamo is very helpful. We plan on visiting Bergamo for a day while staying in Milan. I am sure it is a wonderful place to spend a few nights but we can't add more nights to our itinerary. I already added an extra 4 nights!:) And I don't want to take away nights from anywhere else. So many places to see and never enough time.
|
Karen, sad but true - too much to see, too little time !
|
Da5 : Stresa, Out on Lake Maggiore
After breakfast, we headed off by train (with a change in Milan) to Stresa. Located on the shores of Lake Maggiore, this would be our home for the next 3 nights.
On arrival, our host told us the weather was expected to deteriorate over the next 2 days. So we dropped our bags and advanced our plans to cruise the lake immediately. We bought “Rover” tickets - allowing intermediate stops at each of the Borromean islands all the way to Verbania, and an uninterrupted return to Stresa. The archipelago of Borromean islands, located in the mid-lake, primarily include :
Our first stop was Isola Bella, inundated by tourists visiting the Palazzo Borromeo. With limited time, we decided to give it a miss (prioritizing Villa Taranto in Verbania instead) and explore the public areas (about a third) of the island itself. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6562f42d6b.jpg Departing from Stresa on the ferry https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33cbbdf5d0.jpg Isola Bella in the distance https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b58a25915.jpg View of the gardens from the water https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a5f0a7ae8b.jpg Docking at Isola Bella https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e609427a2.jpg Villa grounds https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e707258f45.jpg View of Isola Pescatori from the shores of Isola Bella https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08f2565851.jpg Little lanes https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7cb2c5627.jpg By the church Our next stop was Isola dei Pescatori, the tiny fishing island. It is sometimes referred to as Isola Superiore – ironic because it's literally 300 metres long and 100 metres wide, with a population of 25 permanent residents! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33fc106875.jpg Approaching Isola Pescatori https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...620c19c441.jpg Docking at the Island https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99a21b72b1.jpg Narrow lanes https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6086c7bc5.jpg Strolling around the island https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f4f54c178.jpg Restaurants and limited accommodation on the island https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7646aed179.jpg View of the Palazzo on Isola Bella from the shores of Pescatori We made a (very) brief stop at Isola Madre. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d72ac0d77.jpg Approaching Isola Madre https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c61d20f281.jpg Docking at the island https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...597ac699fa.jpg The island is home to many birds https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdd0294ddd.jpg The villa and gardens entrance https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cc6f4ff43.jpg Departing from Isola Madre Our final stop was Villa Taranto, where we spent a few leisurely hours exploring the extensive gardens and soaking in the beauty around us. In the 1930s a Scotsman by the name Captain Neil Mc Eacharn transformed 16 hectares of land into one of the most beautiful gardens in the world today.. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44d06799e3.jpg At the cafe https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63452029b1.jpg The Putti Fountain https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c323814e5.jpg The greenhouse with vertical gardens of exotic plants https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc1a6f4b2f.jpg A burst of color in swathes of green https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff4b9f5769.jpg The Mausoleum Chapel https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e6ab79e49.jpg Rhododendrons and Azaleas https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a52a1e183b.jpg Rhododendrons and Azaleas https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3a875fc90.jpg The bridge https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b42325fe83.jpg The villa https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ba5c4f0dd.jpg Statue of Captain Neil Boyd Mc Eacharn https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...041101f8d4.jpg View of terraced gardens from the Fisherman statue We took the ferry back to Stresa. It had been a long and active day, so we called it an early night. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7888f5e95.jpg Island of San Giovanni https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2c5840c41.jpg Views of Lake Maggiore from the ferry https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb99b47cd1.jpg Back in Stresa |
ANUJ, I'm glad that you got to cover so much ground, exactly as you'd planned. My fave foto is your 'colorful 'charming lanes' shot.
*For a few years, the International Pen Pal Club extracurricular that I ran at my school maintained an ongoing exchange of letters with the class of our Varenna landlord's daughter. Looking forward to your Turin posts. Have never been. I am done. the north |
Thank you zebec, for your comments and encouragement. Not everything went to plan - as you'll see later in this trip report - but overall I'd agree we accomplished quite a lot!
|
Day 6 : Stresa, Visit to Lake Orta
The skies were overcast but we decided to bite the bullet on a daytrip to Lake Orta. Lake Orta is barely 25kms away, but public transport connections from Stresa were complicated in May (the direct public bus runs only between June and September). Due to this, we booked a tour with a local travel agency, Tomasucci.
We set off from Stresa in a coach to the town of Omegna, at the north end of the lake. Lake Orta has an interesting history : it was once considered one of the most polluted lakes in the world, due to effluent discharge from a steel plant in the north and a synthetic rayon textile mill in the south (both closed down). Due to the sustained efforts of local communities, the lake was cleaned up and is now a case study in rehabilitation. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97d91bcfaf.jpg Arriving Omegna, by the shore heading to our boat https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6075888c47.jpg Leaving Omegna https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9dc6990e0.jpg My wife secures the best seat in the house! Our first stop was Isola di San Giulio, named after the patron saint Julius of Novara, from the 4th century. It houses a Roman Basilica and the Mater Ecclesiae abbey, a convent with a community of nuns dedicated to prayer, study and the restoration of ancient tapestries. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54ae4a4ecc.jpg Approaching the island https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...909178916b.jpg Docking at the island https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9660cc5c2c.jpg Exploring the island https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34bdec1ac2.jpg Walking around the island https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fc62df0dd.jpg Walking around the island https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19f765764a.jpg Inside the basilica https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51f57a1a27.jpg .. with remarkable frescoes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcdd321fd0.jpg .. very well preserved https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...996ce83a19.jpg ,, and gorgeous ceilng https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b164b20a39.jpg Views of the town of Orta San Giulio from the island We boarded the ferry to Orta San Giulio, the main lakeside town. This little medieval town is a gem with its piazza overlooking the lake and island. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3000348ce0.jpg Docking at Orta San Giulio, first glimpse https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...609a066297.jpg Piazza Motta, the town square https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dbba03b48.jpg The community hall in the town square From Piazza Motta, we walked along the single street running across town. We enjoyed exploring the little squares and narrow cobbled lanes. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c1f18e430.jpg Around town https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a16caf2df.jpg Around town https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc8e92fbce.jpg Around town We climbed up the steps to the 5th century Church of Maria Assunta. You can climb further up to Sacro Monte of Orta, a complex of chapels in the woodland, but we didn’t have enough time. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95082026a8.jpg Climbing up to the church https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e5f28d55e.jpg Passing the oldest traditonal house in the town https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b939eca1df.jpg Views from church We descended back into the town, enjoying last views from the dock, right beside the town square. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c1cb4c11a.jpg Views of the island from the town We took the boat to a small town on the lakeshore, where our coach was waiting to drive us back. On the way, we made a short stop at the giant statue (over 30 metres tall) of San Carlo Borromeo (a decendant of the same aristocratic family) which stands near the town of Arona. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe4b29d28f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b06d88527.jpg It had been a rewarding day, out on beautiful Lake Orta and the weather had been largely supportive. Back in Stresa, it had begun to rain heavily by late evening. We decided to abandon our next day's plans of the Lago Maggiore Express excursion (including the Centovalli train) to Locarno, due to the weather warnings and expected poor visibility on the route. This trip is only viable on weekends and Wednesdays (due to the ferry connections). The following day was a Wednesday but we had blown our chances. |
Love your photos of Lake Maggiore. Do you have a preference? Lake Maggiore or Lake Como? It must have been chilly at Lake Maggiore. I notice people wearing long pants and jackets. Doesn't seem like it was really hot at Lake Como, either. Am I right about that? Did you have any scorching heat? I know weather is different from year to year but it looks like we should pack some warm-weather clothing and cool-weather clothing for our trip next May.
|
Another great report. Following along.
|
Karen, Lake Como and Lake Maggiore are very different experiences, both uniquely charming - the latter without the crowds. At Como, it was t-shirt & shorts friendly weather. At Maggiore, it got cold only when the weather turned due to unseasonal rain. With global climate change, it makes sense to be prepared for anything.
|
maitaitom, glad to see you here.
|
ANUJ - enjoying your report. We're planning a winter trip to some of the areas you covered and although a return visit, we're overwhelmed with the options.
|
Melnq8 - thank you for following. I've enjoyed all your TRs and contributions on this forum, as well. Indeed - so many choices !
|
Day 7 : Final day in Stresa
We woke up to overcast skies this morning. As we had abandoned the Lago Maggiore Express excursion, we debated alternate plans over breakfast. Two choices emerged :
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91793ece4d.jpg Piazza Matteoti in Stresa https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ca39cb5ef.jpg Piazza Possi in Stresa https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16ee1e6251.jpg Lane in Stresa The first section is easy and follows a flat route (signboarded “Panoramic Path” at some point) along the shores of Lake Maggiore, and leading to Carciano (a suburb of Stresa). We enjoyed this walk, with beautiful lakeside views. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bddfc4bb9a.jpg Paasing by the Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromee https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34c3d89706.jpg Views of Isola Bella, while walking along the panoramic path https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c231a821f.jpg Views of Lake Maggiore from the panoramic path https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a17161d5af.jpg Reaching Carciano https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ebc974b61.jpg From Carciano, views of Isola dei Pescatori By now it had started to drizzle, and having come as far we decided to continue onwards. The next section involved a steep climb up a little road behind Villa Amiata. We then walked through woods, crossing over multiple streams and waterfalls along the way, and were positively drenched. The rain had gotten worse – we finally reached Roncaro by the Oratory of the Blessed virgin of the Addolorota. We continued along the via Panoramica towards Romanico, completing an eventual descent into Baveno. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...597ad3d2c0.jpg Finally Roncaro (we weren't lost) ! The Oratory of the Blessed virgin of the Addolorota We strolled around Baveno, which wore a deserted look due to the rain. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baec02e9a3.jpg Piazza della Chiesa in Baveno https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a71c8d2c74.jpg Piazza della Chiesa in Baveno https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5eb80f9ec5.jpg Around Baveno https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f6f00b506.jpg Views of Lake Maggiore from Baveno https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9c7eb7eb4.jpg We seemed the only 2 people around ! We finally took the local bus back to Stresa. Piedmont has experienced drought-like conditions in recent years, but that day witnessed record unseasonal rainfall. We slept to the sound of continuous rain through the night, with unexpected consequences for us the following day. |
Uh-oh...
|
Love your photos of your walk to Baveno even though it was raining.
Uh-oh, my sentiments exactly. Eagerly awaiting to find out what happened. |
Day 8 : Turin
This morning, we were scheduled to leave Stresa for Turin. We were on a regional train to Rho Fiera Milan, with a change to a superfast Frecce train to Turin. At breakfast, I noticed an ominous (all Italian!) email in my inbox from Trenitalia. Due to the heavy rains, a section of our Frecce rail route (around Vicenza – Padua, our train originated in Venice) had been flooded, and we faced a risk of delay or cancellation. We were to spend a night in Turin, and pickup our rental car the next morning. Any dislocation here potentially had a domino effect on the rest of our trip.
We reached Rho Fiera and sat dejected on the (deserted) platform prepared for a long and unpredictable wait. Suddenly, the previous frecce train for our same route pulls in, a full 3 hours late. The conductor stepped out and let us board this train! Miraculously we arrived in Turin, on schedule, as though nothing ever happened. We dropped off our bags at our B&B, and set off on foot to explore the city. Starting at the Piazza San Carlo, we walked down Via Roma, the high street for luxury shopping. We popped in at the Galleria San Federico, a shopping arcade, which also houses one of the oldest cinemas in Italy, the Cinema Lux (opened in 1934). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0110b1501.jpg By the equestrain monument at Pza San Carlo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1406558a64.jpg via Roma https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f74e72475.jpg via Roma https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9bcd7da15.jpg Galleria San Federico, with the Cinema Lux A short distance away was the Museo Egizio the world’s largest collection of Egyptian artefacts outside Cairo. With just the day in Turin, we decided to skip it and spend time outdoors. We also visited the church of San Filipo Neri next door, with its baroque interiors. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e93f9074fc.jpg Outside the museum https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab2222c370.jpg The museum courtyard https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1710effc2c.jpg Outside S Filipo Neri https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b19395fae2.jpg Inside S Filipo Neri We walked past Piazza Carignano, and entered Piazza Carlo Alberto, eventually leading to Piazza Castello. Turin has so many squares with stunning architecture! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f5c3d1675.jpg Piazza Carignano https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c41fd11ff3.jpg Piazza Carlo Alberto https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9022311de4.jpg Piazza Carlo Alberto https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd53422b46.jpg Passing through the Galleria Subalpina (built in 1873), designed as a bazaar https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b8a457f2e.jpg A vintage tram pulls near the Palazzo Madama on Piazza Castello, We eventually made our way towards Palazzo Reale, the 16th century palace of the Savoys, and visited the Turin Cathedral nearby. This is home to the Shroud of Turin (believed to be the burial cloth of Jesus), but it’s no longer available for public display. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46f4036191.jpg Palazzo Reale https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b1a25f222.jpg Palazzo Reale courtyard https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2da5d2488f.jpg Gardens of Palazzo Reale, designed by André Le Nôtre, who also created the gardens at Versailles https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e658d04c2.jpg Roman ruins nearby https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8dbe4b0c8a.jpg The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, with belltower https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72b5b42753.jpg Inside the Cathedral [TO BE CONTINUED] |
So happy to hear you were able to get to Turin! I don't know anything about Turin, except for the Shroud of Turin, but it looks lovely. I especially like the photo of the Piazza Carignano. Love the colors of the buildings, so warm and earthy and soothing. And the Galleria Subalpina! So beautiful!
|
Thank you Karen. On a day where most train travelers in Italy faced utter chaos, we came through unscathed. Nothing short of a miracle.
|
Day 8 : Turin (contd.)
Later that evening, we decided to visit Café Al Bicerin. This is where Bicerin was invented - a traditional hot drink native to Turin, made of espresso, drinking chocolate, and milk served layered in a small glass. Very interesting flavour!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5e08147ff.jpg Outside the cafe https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...814d5320f6.jpg For €8, I was expecting a larger glass ! Bang opposite the café, is Santuario della Consolata or as the locals call it "La Consla", The facade hides a remarkable baroque interior. It brought back memories of the Pantheon in Rome. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05a1f292fe.jpg The neo-classical facade of Santuario della Consolata https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a5bda4c60.jpg And its belltower https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c276ecf51b.jpg Inside We stopped by Eataly for an early supper. We’ve enjoyed our meals at other franchises in Italy before, this one was somewhat disappointing (we’re vegetarians). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a07fd9677.jpg At Eataly https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbd623e19b.jpg Aesthetic dining area Our final stop was the most famous building in Turin – the 170m high Mole Antonelliana. Built as a Jewish Synagogue but never used as such, today it houses the Museo Nazionale del Cinema. Its major attraction is the panoramic elevator that takes you to the top of the tower, with sweeping views of the city. We were so enamoured by Turin, we had lost track of time and reached there only post 7pm, to find it closed already. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c18b5145d1.jpg Near the Mole https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b112bcf2b.jpg The Mole towers over Turin, and is visible from most spots Turin is not just the capital of the Piedmont region, but also the 3rd largest city in Italy. It has rich history, elegant architecture (felt like we were in France) and a vibrant cultural scene, but remains outside the tourist radar. Like Bergamo, we were very impressed with Turin and glad we spent a night there, before picking up our rental car next morning. |
Day 9 : Onward to Asti
Today marked the start of our roadtrip into the heart of Piedmont. We had reserved our rental car with Budget at the Turin airport (wider availability of automatics) via AutoEurope. It was our first ever experience with Budget, but it worked our perfectly (it’s the same counter and service standards as Avis, the parent company). We received a mid-sized Hyundai hybrid hatchback – perfect for country roads and squeezing into tight parking spaces.
Asti is only an hour’s drive from Turin, but we consciously took a much longer route meandering through the countryside. Our first stop was the Basilica of Superga. It has an interesting history : in a small church, located on the top of a hill outside Turin, the Duke Vittorio Amedeo II kneeled in front of a Virgin Mary’s wooden sculpture and promised to build a bigger church in her honour, if he won against his enemies. He eventually triumphed against the French army, and kept his promise. Designed in baroque style, the church interiors are awe-inspiring. The wooden sculpture of the “Madonna delle Grazie”, in front of which he prayed in 1706 is still preserved here. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1076190e68.jpg Parking our car, first views https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d818860d51.jpg Outside the basilica https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42af9eb035.jpg Inside https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cac0f2bf9.jpg Looking up at the dome https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9d6c66d6a.jpg Views of Turin from belvedere, if you zoom in you can notice the Mole Antonelliana roughly in the centre of the photo Our second stop was Cocconato – counted among the I Borghi più belli d'Italia ("The most beautiful villages of Italy"). Due to Cocconato’s unique micro-climate, it has palm trees growing beside olive trees – I wonder if that has something to do with the unusual name – Cocconato ? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c208348318.jpg Strolling around the village https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd2da0239e.jpg By the church https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...389de56682.jpg Views of valley https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a7ebb61b7.jpg Rooftops Our third stop was Vignale Monferrato, another pretty little village with stellar views. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b974e01aa5.jpg Approaching Vignale Monferrato https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d9159173e.jpg Rooftops https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26767e0b2d.jpg Views of the valley https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2332a3fc8.jpg Garden in Vignale Our final stop was Moncalvo, again with great views of the agricultural landscape and vineyards surrounding it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13bca9e7d7.jpg Strolling along the (only) main street in Moncalvo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7b21f9881.jpg Around Moncalvo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...072cac2bf6.jpg The local church https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43c5164825.jpg Views of valley from near the church We finally arrived in Asti, and met our friendly Airbnb host who checked us in. We enjoyed our chat, and he left us with a lot of ideas (and free parking advice!). The rain seemed to have followed us to Asti, so we stayed mostly indoors that evening. We had all of the next day to explore Asti itself after all. Thankfully, the weather improved going forward. |
Day 10 : Asti
The morning was bright and sunny, so we were relieved that the worst of our weather woes seemed behind us.
It was market day in Asti, so we wandered around the stalls that had spilled across two squares - Piazza Alfieri and Piazza Liberta. We also visited the nearby covered market. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce19087b8b.jpg The street market https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0352dbe7e4.jpg The covered market Armed with a map from the tourist office, we set off to explore the town. it’s really a single pedestrian street (Corso Vittorio Alfieri) running through the heart of the historic centre with most sights clustered along or around it. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...697f665e2e.jpg Starting our walk down Corso Alfieri https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9320b172c7.jpg Cafes spilling onto narrow lanes Asti boasts of several beautiful squares, palazzos and medieval towers. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05d75ece57.jpg Piazza Medici and Torre Troyana, the tallest tower in Asti https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cdd750e463.jpg Piazza Roma with Palazzo Mazzetti (the Civic Museum and Art Gallery is inside) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e3f8d8115.jpg Palazzo Alfieri https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d5a0efb6f.jpg The Chiesa Santa Caterina and the Torre Rossa, towards the end of Corso Alfieri We visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Gottardo – the largest church in all of Piedmont. It seemed like there were some major festivities that weekend – lots of folk from neighboring towns had descended upon Asti. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9267e69e4d.jpg Outside https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92685d92fa.jpg Inside We retraced back towards the Parco Della Reistenza, wandering through the little lanes in Asti. The park is close to the Piazza Campo Del Palio, which now serves as a gigantic parking lot (occupied by stalls today) but was historically the venue for the Asti palio (horse race). More recently, the palio has shifted to the (much smaller) Piazza Alfieri in the heart of the city! I can imagine it must be chaotic. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cb4eadb86.jpg Wine is everywhere ! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f43b97ec6.jpg Through the many lanes of Asti https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f5f0110a6.jpg Through the many lanes of Asti https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10c67f7d25.jpg The Piazza Campo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21a1acf8c9.jpg The park Asti is charming, and we enjoyed our 2 nights there as a sneak preview of what to expect from Piedmont. |
You are really making me miss Piemonte. (: Hopefully making back there in Fall 2025. Great stuff and looking forward to more.
|
KarenWoo I don’t know if or anyone else in the forum is aware but Bergamo had over one million visitors last year and those numbers are going up and compared to 2019 it’s almost double le that years numbers. Just a warning. Bergamo being a small city by international standards it’s A LOT of people for a city of 120,000 residents and like other Italian cities overrun by tourism the locals, while happy there’s a lot of tourism they’re also unhappy with the amounts and being overwhelmed by it all.
@ OP- there’s actually three parts to Bergamo. Città Bassa, Città Alta and San Vigilio which is above Città Alta and definitely worth a walk around and many tourists bypass it or don’t even know about it. Too bad you missed it. |
Our young neighbor just won some speed-skating event held in Bergamo a few months ago. Seems it was her personal best.
Guessing winter sports are an attraction there too. I am done. the skates |
ANUJ!!!!
Spectacular!!!! We keep going south....time for us to revisit the north....you are an inspiration!!!! Mille grazie!!!! |
maitaitom, your trip report and advice were the inspiration for my trip! Stay tuned, your favourite location in Piedmont follows soon.
happy_traveler_too, appreciate the additional colour on Bergamo. Actually, if you scroll further down the Bergamo instalment of my TR, we did visit San Vigilio by the funicular (for the castle and the iconic views) and Ive covered this in some detail. zebec and ekscrunchy, thank you for your comments and continued interest in my TR. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:15 PM. |