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-   -   New to Portugal - Two week Nov/Dec trip (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/new-to-portugal-two-week-nov-dec-trip-1660315/)

burta Nov 15th, 2018 05:43 PM

In December there are often giant waves in Nazare if that interests you at all, although you won't know ahead of time when the big waves might be. We have been to that quaint little town twice -- once in summer, and once in December -- and both times the waves were small. I would watch the surf reports and try to make it there when big surf in predicted. You can catch a bus from Nazare, or drive if you have a car. We have done both.

Seamus Nov 15th, 2018 10:28 PM

In Lisbon, I had a wonderful time shopping the market and preparing (then consuming) a typical Portuguese meal with Maureen Ferguson who runs grapeolivepig.com She is an American who was a very successful restaurateur, married a guy from Lisbon and now lives there and does tours. Highly recommend her services!

thursdaysd Nov 16th, 2018 05:50 AM

You might ask PQ WHEN he was winging it in Portugal. Lisbon is VERY much more crowded than when I first visited in 2008 (well, first not counting 1970) and I would not wing it there or in Porto. And please don't drive right off an international flight, driving after a major time change turns out to be as dangerous as driving drunk. You really don't need a car until you leave the Lisbon area, and can do Obidos as a day trip as well.

In Lisbon I stay close to the Restauradores metro stop (no noise problem, the double glazing works well). If I could afford it I would stay at the Avenida Palace. Do not miss the chicken at Bom Jardim in Lisbon, but be aware it is a hole in the wall type place.

If you are into wine, obviously visit the port caves across from Porto - I would recommend Taylors - but also the Solar do Vinho do Porto in Lisbon. https://www.ivdp.pt/pagina.asp?idioma=1&codPag=169

mlgb Nov 16th, 2018 06:31 AM

You may want to book some rooms that can be cancelled at a minimum. With the cheap flights and cruise ships I am not sure if Portugal and Barcelona are ever not crowded any more. Hopefully rain means fewer people. I would bring an umbrella and plan some rainy day activities rather than winging it.

I would not want to drive in either Lisbon or Barcelona.

KarenWoo Nov 16th, 2018 06:58 AM

Don't get discouraged about the weather. Weather reports can change daily. When we went to Barcelona in October 2010, the weather reports predicted a lot of rain for our dates. When we arrived, we had mostly gorgeous weather, with one drizzly day. Just make sure you are prepared for inclement weather. You could go to museums on rainy days, such as the Gulbenkian, Tile Museum, and Coach Museum in Lisbon.

thursdaysd Nov 16th, 2018 07:10 AM

How to spend seven nights in Lisbon: https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...lisbon-759058/

I have been back at least twice since for several nights each time.

mlgb Nov 16th, 2018 08:23 AM

I think 3 or 4 nights in Lisbon is good. If you think the weather will be bad all day, perhaps skip the Alfama and work in a museum instead.

Here is the link to the podcast that I followed for the City Center walking tour. I had the 24 hour day pass for the Carris/Metro (6.3 E one) which includes the Santa Justa Lift and the Ascencors and trams.

Note that most Metro stations are not attended so if flying in to Lisbon you may want to buy your pass at that station, which is attended. Your US credit card (if you are from the US) won't be accepted unless it's chip and pin, but you can pay with cash.

https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-rea...al-audio-tours.

I spent my first night at the Star Inn Aeropuerto. That was a good thing, since I arrived late at night with the leading edge of the "Zombie Hurricane". It's a short downhill walk from the airport, and I liked the hotel other than the long check-in (due to what was likely many other late check-ins with cancelled flights). The breakfast was great and included mini Pastais de Belem which were hot and gooey, and honestly just as good as the famous ones. I had thought to book my last night there and wish I had, but by the time I decided it was fully booked. They also have a shuttle shared with the Tryp across the street, which I took going back uphill the next morning.

My first full day I took the train from the Oriente Station to Sintra (this station is also on the Red Line near the airport).

My final night I stayed opposite the Corte Ingles Mall, since there is a Red Line Metro Stop right outside. I thought I was being clever. but a last-minute Metro strike meant I needed to Uber to the airport. That cost me 15 Euro and only took 20 minutes. My last afternoon and night also had difficult weather (rain and wind). For dinner I went across the street to the top level gourmet food court at Corte Ingles and enjoyed my the prawns with black rice at Tasca Chic (note, skip the bread service, it isn't mandatory). https://www.tascachic.pt/en/

I had hoped to visit the nearby Gulbenkian that afternoon but the ridiculous lines in Belem both for the Monastery and the Pastry shop dashed those hopes.

PalenQ Nov 16th, 2018 09:10 AM

I would not wing it in Lisbon or Porto but was more talking about driving between them at that time of year. Friends did this three years ago and said no problem - but they did call ahead the day before.

mlgb Nov 16th, 2018 09:18 AM

Weather in Lisbon will be coming in from the Atlantic so yes, it can turn bad. I was there from late on October 13th until the 19th and there was definitely some bad weather during that time!

Even a few weeks can make a difference.

thursdaysd Nov 16th, 2018 10:08 AM

On the other hand, I once decamped from London to Lisbon in the hope of better weather and was rewarded.

mlgb Nov 16th, 2018 01:06 PM

Be sure to double check more recent trip reports and tripadvisor discussions, as much has changed since 2009 including the bus routes in Sintra and who is entitled to free admissions.
However if you are over 65, the senior discount into public museums and for trains is good for everyone, just show your passport.

As for not being on the radar for Brits and Americans, those days are long over.

blej Nov 17th, 2018 12:57 PM

Hi all and once again a great deal of info - still sorting it through. One thing that has become obvious is that we have too many places we are trying to see and too many different places on our schedule to spend the night. We also have only 13 nights.

We have the area between Lisbon and Coimbra.- 2
Coimbra - ?
Porto - 2
The Douro Valley - 3
Small historical villages around the Serra Da Estela - (Almeida, Piodao, Sortelha, Monsanto, etc.) - 2
Evora, Monsaraz - 1
Lisbon - 3

The question is leave out Coimbra or Evora or both. If we leave both out we can spend an extra day somewhere and we would have only 5 places to stay in.

Must see areas for us are: Lisbon, Douro Valley (a time to enjoy and rest), Historical small villages (we like old hill towns).

Something will make itself known.
Blej

thursdaysd Nov 17th, 2018 03:02 PM

I would leave out Evora rather than Coimbra. I was a little disppointed in Evora, and Coimbra makes more sense geographically.

PalenQ Nov 18th, 2018 08:05 AM

I enjoyed Evora but it is an outlier with your other plans and not stupendous enough to merit a detour IMO.

HappyTrvlr Nov 18th, 2018 01:55 PM

Make sure you visit the Belem area of Lisbon and it’s Jeronimos Monastery. Did Sintra and CaisCais as day trips which we liked but had no desire to stay at either one, giving up city time in Lisbon. We spent 9 nights in Lisbon, lots to do and see.We regretted staying overnight in Obidos, worth about two hours at most. Try to include Evora where we were glad we spent the night, wished we could have stayed one more night.
Guimares is north of Porto in the Minho region not on the Douro. We spent two nights there and recommend it.
We stopped in Nazaré and Aviero for lunches. Enjoyed Coimbra, the library, and stayed in a wonderful hotel, Quinta de las Lagrimas.

blej Nov 19th, 2018 05:58 AM

We've made a change in our planned sequence of towns - in order to secure a stay in a particular quinta.

Current itinerary

Lisbon2 nights
Obidos:

blej Nov 19th, 2018 06:20 AM

Sorry about that!

Current itinerary:
Lisbon 2 nights - made reservation at Casa Balthazar
Obidos 2 - with side trips
Coimbra - on the way to Porto
Porto 2
Douro Valley 3 - with side trips on the way- made reservations at Quinta do Peso in Tabuaco (Pinhao)
Piodao - 1

Forecast improving - but who knows. I have the lightest umbrella made and we are water-proofing my shoes.
Evora - 2 stopping in Monsanto on the way
Lisbon- 1

Quinto do Peso puts us in the thick of easy to reach Port houses
Piodao takes us way out of our way, but I have a feeling it will be worth it and a grand adventure.
Would have like to include a night in Monsanto, but my wife would like to visit Evora and two nights sound right. A lot driving to get there.

Weather report has improved - but who knows. I have the lightest umbrella made and we are water-proofing our shoes - just in case.

Blej

thursdaysd Nov 19th, 2018 06:29 AM

Strongly recommend against two nights in Obidos. Very over-touristed and only worth two to three hours even if empty.


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