Need assistance with # of nts in Andulsia towns/cities
 

I'm just starting to plan my 2013 trip. I have never been to Andalusia and think it's about time! I will go the last week of May and return just after my birthday on June 12th. I'll have 16 nights on the ground and plan on using only public transportation. My interests are photography, good food, museums (but not for hours & hours), wandering & wandering neighborhoods, hiking, gardens, history & architecture. I plan on visiting the following:
Seville
Cordova
Granada
Rhonda
And one coastal town/city

Yes, I know it will already be hot and plan on pacing myself accordingly. My main question is - how many nights should I allot to each location? I know Seville will deserve the longest stay. I'm just not sure how to spread out my 16 nights and could use great Fodorite advice!

I will likely fly in and out of Madrid (not counted in the 16 nights just for Andalusia). Help with the order of towns/cities would be appreciated as well. Lastly, what coastal town/city would you recommend? I've read good things about Malaga. I'm not a beach lounger. (I live near the beach & don't want to spend my valuable vacation time just lounging around.) The ideal location would have a wonderful historic core and hopefully some great coastal trails for hiking.

I'll thank everyone in advance for any and all advice!

The Córdoba Spring Fair takes place the last week of May. Similar to the famous Feria de Abril in Sevilla, but less crowded. An excellent intro to the local culture. Flamenco, horses, music, dance, food and wine 24/7. http://www.andalucia.com/festival/co...pring-fair.htm

And Córdoba is a wonderful city in itself, once the most advanced city in the western world. Lots more to offer than the obvious tourist atractions such as the Mezquita, the Alcazar etc. Go a little North of the major tourist atractions to find "Roman" Córdoba with excellent and affordable tabernas on every corner and a much more local atmosphere.

Go from Madrid to Córdoba with the high speed AVE train in 1h 40 mins. The Ave train also takes you from Córdoba to either Sevilla or Málaga in 50 mins.

Málaga city is an excellent choice for a coastal destination. Genuine laid-back Andalusian atmosphere and the most easy-going people. The city is full of excellent bars, cafés and restaurants, museums, etc etc, and plenty of posibilities for interesting walks through very different neighbourhoods. Also lots of fabulous walks around Málaga, for example up at El Torcal just north of the city. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/journalis...pleasures.html
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored...Andalucia.html

El Torcal limestone rock formations, just north of Málaga city: http://www.andalucia.com/antequera/torcal/home.htm

If you're into seafood, Málaga is heaven. The typical Conchas finas are to die for, pure sea! http://www.google.no/search?q=Concha...w=1600&bih=805

Personally as far as order goes, I might do Seville first because I think it's typically the hottest of the places on your list. I was in Andalusia last year, also last week of May/first week of June. Even though we were there later, Granada was appreciably cooler, probably due to the elevation.

Also if you are going to Cordoba during the Fair, make your hotel reservations early. I ended up having to stop there only for a day on the way from Seville to Granada because I couldn't find a hotel in my price range (which was up to 150 euros per night).

I'll also second Malaga - not only is it an interesting place, the airport there is large and it should be fairly easy to get a flight home from there.

Have a great trip!

kimhe - thank you for all the information & links. I liked what I read in those Telegraph articles on Malaga. El Torcal sounds like good potential too. "Roman" Cordoba sounds right up my alley. Are there specific streets you could recommend in that neighborhood?

travelingaunta - I too was thinking of starting in Seville. My reasoning was to start out in the largest city and end by the sea to slow down a bit. Glad to know it makes sense as well due to the temps.

Thanks to both of you for the heads up on the Spring Fair & hotel booking challanges. I travel solo & try to keep my hotel expenses down to reasonable.

Anyone else out there wishing to chime in on number of nights I should allot to each town/city?????

Also, I was doing some more reading today. Nerja looks like a possibility for my coastal stay. Anyone willing to weigh in Malaga vs Nerja?

I love that you are giving yourself enough time to actually explore this area!

Here's what I did and what I thought:

Seville - 2 days were definitely NOT enough. (I had planned a 3rd day there, but something came up.) I think I would have liked to have at least 3 full days, and maybe 4, in Seville.

Cordoba - 2 full days/2 nights - I'm SO glad I spent the extra time in this city that so many people visit as just a day trip! I thought it had a great deal to offer. Don't miss the Viana museum/palace/patios.

Granada - I had just over 2 full days in Granada and thoroughly enjoyed my time there.

Ronda - I spent almost exactly a day in Ronda and left earlier than I had planned because I felt I was ready to move on.

And one coastal town/city. I didn't spend any time on the coast.

...but I did go into the Alpujarras for a night. I left Granada in the morning, which gave me enough time for a reasonably long hike after I reached Capileira. I had another decent hike the next morning/afternoon and reached Granada in time for a nice dinner. (BTW, I didn't count include these tail ends in Granada in my count above.)

It's a stunning part of the world - enjoy your time there!

"The ideal location would have a wonderful historic core and hopefully some great coastal trails for hiking."
I don´t think you are going to find anywhere on the Costa del Sol with "great coastal trails for hiking." The nearby Costa de la Luz is bereft of good hiking trails too.

For me, the best hiking is inland, in the mountains. I live in a white mountain village (pueblo blanco) near Ronda so if I can help you in any way, just post again.

In Córdoba, I highly recommend the area around the 1st century AD Roman temple between the two main plazas: Plaza de las Tendillas and the Plaza Mayor-like Plaza de la Corredera. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_t...f_C%C3%B3rdoba

The two plazas are five minutes walking apart and some 300 meters north of the Mezquita. About Plaza de la Tendillas: http://www.artencordoba.co.uk/SQUARE...as-Square.html
About Plaza de la Corredera: http://www.artencordoba.co.uk/SQUARE...as-Square.html

About Roman Córdoba: http://www.artencordoba.co.uk/ROMAN-...n-Cordoba.html

Plaza de la Tendillas is, as said, only some 300 meters north of the Mezquita, but it's a lot more local atmosphere up here. Loads of affordable and traditional tabernas. Had excellent meals in some of them last summer. At night, the two of us used to pay some 30-35€ included a bottle of wine and a couple of brandys. Taberna Salinas is one of the more famous, recommended by the Michelin guide: http://www.tabernasalinas.com/

I loved Taberna El Gallo in C/Mária Cristina, 6, two minutes from Plaza de las Tendillas, and next door to the Roman temple ruins. Great wines - try the dry Amargoso - and excellent tapas. In one word: Genuine!
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
http://cordobapedia.wikanda.es/wiki/Taberna_El_Gallo

Here's a list of more tabernas in Córdoba. http://www.cordoba24.info/tavernen/h...vernen_en.html

Perhaps do as the Spanish and have your main meal at lunch-time, from about 1.30. Lots of places would offer a three course menu del dia for some 8-12€ with drinks included.

And remember to try the local Montilla-Moriles wines, somewhat like sherry (Jeréz). The dry (fino) is excellent and is drunk with tapas in every bar.

Nice bars and cafés with outdoor terraces in and around Plaza de las Tendillas long into the night.

Re Seville.

OK, everybody keeps saying you need days and days and days in that city. So, I went there and guess what? I had seen a lot of that architecture in other places although certainly not some of the insides. The cathedral, the Alcazar (and once you've seen the inside of that get ready for some repetition in the Alhambra) some flamenco, a hotel with a POOL in that hot weather.

Personally after four days I was ready for some place new but am sure you will enjoy it.

The Alhambra: if you decide not to do the night visit I can honestly say that viewing it from the terrace of the parador while having dinner (no, you don't have to be staying IN the parador to do it) was memorable.

I hope you enjoy your trip; lots to see and do for sure.

kja - thank you for your reply. I'm so glad to hear you enjoyed Cordoba. As you said, so many people do it as a day trip. Good to know there was plenty to keep you occupied for 2 full days. The Alpujarras look like a nice possibility for hiking & Capileira looks charming (I google imaged it). Are there lots of good trails to hike? Would you do that again?

TonyBishop - thank you for your reply as well. I'm sad to learn there's not good hiking on the two coasts. Last year I hiked the Cinque Terre & Lake Como. IMO, hiking trails with stunning water & mountain views is nirvana. Maybe I need to scrap the coast idea & consider the mountains as you suggest. Can you suggest any village to village hikes?

As it stands right now, I'm thinking of the following:
Seville - 6 nights
Cordoba - 3 nights
Granada - 3 nights
Ronda - 1 night (or should I consider a different pueblo blanco?
Malaga - 3 nights

Any Fodorite care to suggest an adjustment or two?????

Take a look at the area around Ronda. There are photos in the website linked below. If you like the look of it, you could consider a hike with Eva who lives in Montejaque, near Ronda.
www.rondamountains.com

You could either stay in Ronda or in one of the nearby pueblos blancos, such as Montejaque or Benaoján.

However, it you choose to do that, you will need to add more nights to Ronda and fewer nights to somewhere else. In my view, that would be no hardship.

If you say what your budget is likely to be (in Euros), I can give you some recommendations for places to stay.

Kimhe & Dukey1 - you were both posting the same time I was!

Kimhe - you are making Cordoba sound even better. Thank you again for the links. I like the Roman history. I've never met a Roman ruin I didn't like. I've even been as far as Tunisia to visit theirs. Thanks for the food & beverage suggestions too. I so enjoy dining in outdoor cafes for hours & just watching the world go by. Plaza de la Tendillas sounds like my kind of place!

Dukey1 - as this will be my first lenghty trip to Spain (the only other visit was a day trip to the north east coast while staying in southern France), I'm thinking I won't experience the same deja vu you felt. At least I hope so! Thanks for the dining at the parador suggestion. That sounds like a winner. I hear what you're saying about a pool. When I travel to southern Europe in the summer, I do try to find hotels with pools. I like to get going early in the morning, play tourist all day until 4 or 5 then head to the hotel pool. Swimming, reading & relaxing before getting ready for dinner is my reward for playing tourist all day.

TonyBishop - you too were posting at the same time I was. Eva's hikes look great and something I would enjoy. I chuckled when I read on her site - "Do Griffon vultures eat an occasional rabbit or a small hiker?" Thankfully, I'm not small! LOL! As I will be solo, arranging a hike with her may be a challange as her site states a minimum of two people.

I would appreciate hotel suggestions. I haven't even started researching yet. I'm a 2* kind of gal. (Well, I'm really a 4* kind of gal without the pockets for it!) Hotels really are just a place to lay my head for a few hours. I do try & find hotels with pools though. As far as budget - I like to keep my cost under E100 single whenever possible. Cities are a challenge. I'm off for 10 nights to the Rhine & Mosel next week & was able to find wonderful apartment accommodation with balconies on both rivers for E60/night. After Germany I then go to Bruges & Amsterdam where costs, of course, escalate. So, if I can average E100/night during my trip, I'm happy.

Málaga vs. Nerja:

Málaga is a big city (pop 550 000) with a vibrant atmosphere and a very diverse cultural scene ++. Small town Nerja (pop some 20 000+) has got everything that makes it popular with tourists, but it has also retained much of its Andalucian small town charm. In Nerja, you can stay in the absolute best location in traditional and fabulous value La Mena. Individual room with private bathroom and sea-view for 22€/night in June. Have stayed here several times. http://www.hostalmena.es/hostal/eng/

The Nerja old town is beautiful, and here you'll find dozens of tapas bars/restaurants that also are very popular with locals. Nerja, I think, would be ideal for a solo traveller. Extremely safe and easy to get in contact with people, or stay for yourself, at the numerous tapas bars/restaurants where people gather in the bar area both at lunch-time and in the evening to sample delicious tapas with a couple of adjoining glasses. In almost all of Nerja, except in the most touristy places, there are free tapas to choose with every glass of whatever. It will normally cost you about 1.50-2€ for a drink and a tapa. Some of the tapas bars are just brilliant, and you could (theoretically...) have a five course meal and a good portion of wine in the best surroundings for some 8-10€. I've opted for this more than once both for lunch and in the evening...

Photo of Nerja at the foot of the Almijara mountains:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/...de6a8146_o.jpg

Old town street in Nerja:
http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/131879/629455

Here are some of my favourites restaurants/tapas bars (have been in Nerja at least once a year since 2002). All serve free tapas too choose with every drink in the bar area, and all are also restaurants. The tapas would be salads, a great variety of casseroles and stews, or they will grill meat kebabs, burgers, sausages, or all kinds of fish and seafood right in front of your eyes, the choices are endless.

Extremely popular La Marina, as good as you get a seafood freiduría in all of Andalucía: http://www.guideofnerja.com/pages/gu.../marina_en.htm
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalucia.html

El Pulguilla, just off landmark Balcón de Europa:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres.../el-pulguilla/ http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html

La Puntilla in the heart of the Old town:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...s/la-puntilla/
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalucia.html

And when you want some change, an Italian family owned restaurant serves genuine pizza and pasta at Vitaliano. Consistent high quality through some 20-30 visits over 10 years...:
http://www.ristorantevitaliano.com/us.html
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalucia.html

Fabulous Thai and Lao cuisine at Lan Sang: http://www.lansang.com/

Always updated info about Nerja, what to do etc: http://www.nerjatoday.com/

Every now and then there are great performances at the Nerja Cultural Cemter theater. Had one of the concert experiences of my life, seeing legendary flamenco singer José Mercé here in October 2004. A great variety of program and artists: http://www.nerja.es/villadenerja/index.php?apdo=prog

Write to Eva and ask her what her rates are for singles. I believe she does reductions. Her email address is on that website.

Accommodation recommendations.

RONDA: http://www.hotelsangabriel.com/ (my first choice in Ronda - magical)

BENAOJAN: http://www.molinodelsanto.com/uk/index.php
The hotel is just a 2-minute walk from Benaoján train station which, in turn is the first stop after Ronda on the Granada - Algeciras line. It is really lovely there and we eat in the excellent restaurant whenever we have something to celebrate.

The hotel is just 2 miles from Montejaque and Eva often has clients who are staying there. I am fairly certain that she doesn´t charge any extra for collection and dropping off.

MONTEJAQUE (the village where Eva and I both live):
http://www.posadadelfresno.com/ (simple, clean and welcoming - cheaper than the Molino del Santo above).

http://www.casaelcorchito.com/
(Just 2 bedrooms, both are for two people: they charge approx. half-price for single occupancy.)
English-spoken there - apparently the breakfasts are superb.

If you choose to stay in Montejaque, I´m sure that either Eva would arrange to collect you from Benaoján train station for free if you have booked a trip with her.

Another vote for the Molina del Santo in Benoajan, about 4 miles outside Ronda. The times I stayed there, there were always plenty of hikers using it as a base. The hotel offered maps and sack lunches, etd. A beautiful place should it fit your budget.

Tony, when I think of Montejacue, fields of poppies and cork trees come to mind.

I'll be in Nerja next week, thanks @kimhe! (sorry, piggy backing on this post)

@weber6560. Alas, the poppies have almost all gone by now as the summer approaches. The cork oaks are still there, of course.

You have very good tastes in hotels too. The Molino del Santo is always a firm recommendation of mine for people who are looking for somewhere to stay or eat around here.

In Granada, I always will recommend Hostal Rodri set off a main square. For around 50E you get a spotless room and bathroom. It's small and no pool but the owners and other guests were wonderful. Highly recommended. Also you must try Los Italianos helado shop on Gran Via. Fabulous gelato and ice cream.

Wow, what great responses since I last checked!

kimhe - you make Nerja sound wonderful! I really like the looks of the town and the coast. I wonder if the water will be warm enough for me to swim late May early June. I love to swim, but am not a fan of just lounging around. OMG, Hostel Mena looks fabulous. And, the rates are amazing! Thank you for all the restaurant & food recommendations. Especially thank you for the Italian & Thai restaurant suggestions as I may want some variety by the end of my trip.

TonyBishop - thank you, thank you, thank you for all the hotel suggestions. Hotel San Gabriel does indeed look magical. The Molino del Santo with it's pool looks fabulous as well. I'm going to have to so some serious research & give thought as to staying in Ronda vs another small town close by but with good hiking potential.

emily71 - thanks for the Hostel Rodri suggestion. As you say, it's simple but nice. I like the location and the rates are simply amazing. This planned trip may turn out to be more wallet friendly than I imagined. And, thank you for the gelato/ice cream recommendation! How did you know I LOVE ice cream (my waist not so much!) LOL.

Thanks everyone for your assistance! I just love the planning process especially with the expert advice of Fodorites!

You´re welcome. Enjoy your research and planning.

"I wonder if the water will be warm enough for me to swim late May early June."
For most people it will still be too cold, unfortunately. It is only now getting up to tolerable levels.

> The Alpujarras look like a nice possibility for hiking & Capileira looks charming (I google imaged it). Are there lots of good trails to hike? Would you do that again?

Yes, there are lots of great hiking trails in the area, and they offer some stunning views. I believe you can also go horseback riding and otherwise enjoy the outdoors in this area. I am definitely glad I spent some time there - it was a lovely counterpoint to other parts of Andalucia. Capileira is one of several very small towns in the Poqueira Gorge, each of which held some tourist infrastructure and touristy-shops, but also - at least in 2004 - had sections that seemed reasonably untouched. The down-side was the terrifying bus ride to get there. From a previous thread:

kja on Aug 4, 10 at 5:19pm
... I really enjoyed a night in Capileira in Las Alpujarras. The bus ride to get there (from Granada) was terrifying, with a seemingly endless stretch of blind, sharply switchbacking curves, but the area is lovely IMO. I'm not sure one can really experience "village life" there, but it might be worth considering.

weber6560 on Aug 4, 10 at 5:50pm
kja: scariest road I have ever been on.

lincasanova on Aug 4, 10 at 5:57pm
My aunt wouldn't even get out of the car to be in the picture at a picturesque spot.!LOL!

kja on Aug 4, 10 at 6:57pm
weber6560 and lincasanova - so glad it wasn't just me! At first, I thought I was really lucky because I had gotten the front seat on the right-hand side of the bus. But that just meant that I felt like I was hanging off the road on many of those turns! I kept telling myself to go ahead and look because the scenery was stunning and if I was to die, I might as well enjoy the view, but every time I looked, it was so frightening that I reflexively turned away. And as though the road wasn't bad enough, my driver on the way in played really irritating music at full volumn and spent most of the trip talking - with his hands. I wondered whether I could bring myself to board the bus when it was time to leave, or whether I'd have to choose between hiking out or moving in!


BTW, the ride out was much less terrifying. And I don't think that was entirely due to the large (very large!) glass of beer I had before boarding. :-) I chose a seat part-way back and this driver seemed much more attentive to the road, which makes sense because drivers do generally have more control going up than coming down.

Perfect to swim in Nerja late May early June. Expect sea temp at some 70F.

I had some great swims here in late March this year, but I'm Norwegian...

And if you want a hotel with a pool (roof-top with sea and mountain-view), Mena's brand new offspring Mena Plaza is just around the corner. 62€ for a double in May/June: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/mena-plaza.en.html

...and nine small and large beaches among the cliffs in Nerja. My favourite is somewhat hidden El Salón just in front of Mena: http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjabeachguide/el-salon/

I have read a lot about that the town of Nerja does not have any sewage treatment works. Thus the sewage is pumped straight out into the sea untreated. I would not recommend anyone to swim in raw sewage.
http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news...le_34910.shtml
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

The dangers of swimming in raw sewage.
http://bit.ly/MWD6zH

kja - thanks for the heads up on the bus trip to Capileira. That may put a kabosh on that plan for me. I was on a bus up to the top of a mountain in Bavaria a couple of summers ago & literaly got sick to my stomach just looking out at the view. I had no idea I could be affected until that ride. By some of the comments in that tread you provided, the Capileira bus trip sounds worse than what I did. I'm thinking a large beer wouldn't be enough for me! LOL.

TonyBishop & kimhe - looks like I won't be swimming in the Med. I'm definitely not Norwegian as I won't go into the ocean off the Mid Atlantic coast (Maryland) until after July 4th & even then it's still too cool for me. I was hoping the Med might warm up faster. A shame as El Salon looks lovely.

ribeirasacra - thanks for the warning. I don't think I care for raw sewage!

kimhe - the Mena Plaza's pool looks wonderful. And, the rates are great too. That could be a winner for me. Thanks!

From May 29th to June 12th this year we flew to Malaga, took the train to Seville, then the train to Cordoba, train to Malaga and a local bus to Nerja. Our timing was 4 nights Seville, 3 nights Cordoba and a week on the beach in Nerja.

The train journey from Malaga to Seville was wonderful, part of it through a national park. We were glad we didn't take the fastest train. For us, Seville was uncomfortably hot for moving around to see all we wanted to see (and we LOVE heat). If you stay in the centre, I think you can see the main sights in a couple days. Also, in the end, it is a big city and feels like a big city.

The train journey to Cordoba is quick and easy (excellent service and very comfortable). We could have spent longer in Cordoba...it is smaller and easier to move around with lots of small wonders. If we had had the time we would have taken the bus to the Medina outside town, but really it probably deserves most of a day, so we will return to beautiful Cordoba again.

Again we enjoyed our train journy to Malaga, a lovely small city I have visited before. If you like good food and architecture both Cordoba and Malaga are wonderful places to spend time.

I was in Rhonda many years ago, stunning but based on my experience, the real beauty of a city is Granada. We spent a week in Granada last year and would happily return tomorrow! We visited the Alhambra twice so we could really get a feel for the gardens and architecture. The tapas culture is slightly different in Granada, really larger portions like eating a generous course in each bar, or just sitting in one and eating all sorts of delightful things. Most of the serious eating seems to be done indoors rather than outside. The buzz of conversation is more like an old fashioned Irish pub, before sports tv took over from conversation.

Having more time in Granada we found all sorts of interesting things: a science and technology centre, art exhibits, convents that bake biscuits, it goes on. It really helped us understand the Moorish history in particular, making our trip this year much more informed. Oh yes, and did I mention the food! The Moorish influence on the food was a revelation, yum. Do try it all! Oh and look out for the Sephardic Jewish restaurant in Cordoba, very close to the Synogogue, delightful.

Maybe not Nerja if you're really into swimming. The views of the Med are beautiful though.

> thanks for the heads up on the bus trip to Capileira. That may put a kabosh on that plan for me. I was on a bus up to the top of a mountain in Bavaria a couple of summers ago & literaly got sick to my stomach just looking out at the view. I had no idea I could be affected until that ride. By some of the comments in that tread you provided, the Capileira bus trip sounds worse than what I did. I'm thinking a large beer wouldn't be enough for me! LOL.

It's worth keeping in mind that the bus makes this trip about 3 times a day, every day - a thought I tried to keep in focus on that trip! I suspect that I would have found the trip much more bearable if I hadn't had that front right seat with virtually nothing to block the spectacular (and terrifying) views over the road's edge. Had I been further back, looking out rather than down, or even not looking, I would probably have found it much more manageable. And a manual transmission - as this bus had - does give the driver more control when going uphill than my head registered. And for all I know, there were mirrors or other ways for the driver to know what was coming - I've certainly experienced that as a driver elsewhere. And one more thought: You could stay at one of the villages below Capileira, which would drastically reduce the part of the ride that is on the scary side. One of my hikes was down into the valley and back up; you could instead climb up and then down. So don't give up on this area just because of the ride!

Regarding beaches in Nerja:

In all of the Málaga region there were eight top quality rankning beaches (the Q-mark set up by the Calidad Turística Española (ICTE) bureau) by 2008. Two of the nine beaches in Nerja with this distinction as well as with the international Blue Flag based on criteria dealing with water quality, environmental management, safety and services.
http://www.spainaway.com/nerja-beach-guide.html

By 2011, four of the nine beaches in Nerja has got the international Blue Flag award.
http://www.andalucia.com/beaches/blueflag/beaches.htm

Nine beaches in Nerja, from large Burriana and Torecilla beaches with all services to small and sheltered hide-aways among the cliffs. About the Blue flag award. http://www.andalucia.com/beaches/blueflag/home.htm

JanieMac - thank you so much for your comments. I have read so many posts that Seville has so much to offer it deserves a week. You've given me a different perspective & likely more compatible to my traveling style. "in the end, it is a big city and feels like a big city." I seem to like visiting big cities on winter trips to Europe but during my summer trips I enjoy smaller cities & towns where I can feel more connected to enjoy the out of doors during good weather. Based upon your comments I'll likely take days away from Seville, add one to Cordoba & 2 to Granada. The reason I have chosen Andalucia as a destination is that I want to experience the Moorish culture, gardens, architecture & history. It looks to be fascinating & so different from elsewhere in Europe. And, thanks for the Shepardish Jewish restaurant recommendation. I'm always on the search for good & different food experiences.

Egbert - that's the reason I'm considering Nerja as opposed to Malaga. The photos of the coast look just gorgeous.

kja - thanks for the words of reassurance & suggestion to stay in a valley village. However, I'm not sure you have me convinced. (My heart says go for it, my stomach says NOT!) I imagine I will whimp out & stay in Rhonda instead.

kimhe - thank you for the additional information on the Blue Flag status of Nerja beaches. You've made me feel much better about dipping my feet in the Med. (I'll stick with a pool though for swimming as the Med will be just too cold for me to enjoy.) I'm a whimp on cold water too!

There is an alternative point of view to that posed by kimhe. Read these. I will leave it up to you to decide.

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

On blue flags - see the post by NoSoyGuiri.

Oops. http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...Andalucia.html

Dee-dee In Ronda we stayed at hotel Don Miguel. Its possible to get a room over the gorge with stunning views much like those from the Parador. Not overly expensive either.
See the pic gallery on their website.

http://www.dmiguel.com/en/galerias.php

Click on views from the air.

You're right Tony, the Nerja sewage plant project seems to be "a never-ending story", and everyone local are furious, totally desilluionised, laughing or all. But the sewage goes out way off the beaches, and Nerja is a major beach destination for a reason. I keep swimming in the, at least by apparance, crystal clear water with a light heart and my mind elsewhere.

And bacteria are very small.

Be advised: if you are relying on public transportation (trains and buses)be sure to study the routes and schedules ahead of time. Not all cities are connected. Madrid serves as a hub. We made that mistake and ended up renting a car between Toledo and Granada in order to not have to train back to Madrid, endure a long layover, and another fairly long ride. Also, I agree with the posters who commented on the similarity of city sites. The Moorish influence is definitely worth seeing/studying but I found that I tired of it after a couple of cities. Enjoy your trip!

"I keep swimming in the, at least by apparance, crystal clear water with a light heart and my mind elsewhere."
kimhe, you may have a coping strategy for swimming in the sea at Nerja but it is important to remember that you don´t have to be surrounded by turds for the water to be unsafe. Hence my comment that bacteria are very small.

In other words, the raw sewage doesn´t have to be visible in order for the water to be unsafe for swimming. So, by all means carry on swimming, but I would try to avoid encouraging others to follow suit if I were you.

"Nerja is a major beach destination for a reason."
Spanish people who live locally know all about the sewage problem at Nerja and they never swim in the sea there. In the Andalucían village where I live, all the Spanish people I know laugh at the idea of swimming in the sea at Nerja.

Foreign tourists are another matter. Most foreign visitors to Nerja, unfortunately, do not read Spanish well enough to read the newspapers. Even if they did, the newspapers don´t carry a story about the sewage every day.

Dee_Dee, you have been warned. What you do with that information is up to you.

In a past life I was a water engineer. Believe me you do not want to be in contact with raw sewage, even if it is diluted a bit. Working in sewage treatment plants or walking down large swage pipes meant I had to have regular medical checkups to ensure my health...my sanity is a different matter!
As for the blue flag thing. This is not only related to water quality facilities come into the equation too. One word of caution is that recently monitoring of these beaches was changed. It used to be done independently, but now the local council does it. There is a far great risk of figures being “manipulated”.
Last year in Galicia there was an oil spill. Not a large one but they closed off the beach for only a week and a bit. Personally I do not believe you can get a beach from blue flag status down to polluted and back in just 14 days.

Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XosuWWRXUUI