Naxos questions
 

Hi there,

I am heading for a 10 days holiday in Greece. Our first stop is Santorini and then we will spend 4-5 days in Naxos. Although I have already been in Naxos years ago, it was during the month of May, so I have some questions :

- We are staying at an apartment in Agios Giorgios beach. Are there supermarkets in the area, or should we head into town?

- Day excursions. We will probably rent a car to go down the beaches ( Mikri Vigla and so on), but I wasn´t sure of driving up to Apollonas, and we wanted to see the kouros. I remember a really bad road after Apiranthos, and I guess in summer it can be even worse. My friend doesn´t drive, so I cannot count on her to help me ;) . Does anyone know of a decent day trip place in Naxos, and how much would it cost?

- I am celebrating my birthday while in Naxos. We were thinking of having a nice dinner either there or in Athens. I was thinking of a good restaurant, but not absolutely typical. I am more into modern approaches to traditional cuisine. One thing that I really like are fresh fish and vegetables, not so much into meat. But a good view and a nice ambiance would really help. Any ideas? I know it sounds complicated, but well, maybe it can be found.

If I remember something else, I´ll get back later.

Kind regards, Cova

St George is part of Naxos Town, and it has supermarkets.

Bus service is good on Naxos. You can get to all the beaches as far as Plaka, but not to Mikri Vigla, as far as I know.

You don't have to go through Aprirathos to get to Apollonas, but the other route probably isn't much better. I took the bus there during a violent thunderstorm once, and the trip was (how shall I put it?) thrilling. :-o I'm sure glad I wasn't driving that day. BTW, it's an easy walk up to the kouros from where the bus stops in Apollonas.

For a restaurant, try To Kastro, in the old town overlooking the harbour.

I also would recommend To Kastro. The scenery from there is just fabulous. Food was good also.

Hi Heimdall,

the year I was in Naxos with mum and sister we rented a car for a couple of days, and one of them we did a round tour of the island. We began by visiting Demeter´s temple, then Tragea, up to Apiranthos and continue to Apollonas ( where we had a very nice lunch ). That part of the road was really dreadful, specially because we found a car with a girl sitting there, crying because she couldn´t get herself to continue driving.

My sister is a really amazing driver, and we have been all over Europe without problems, but she still thinks of that road as awful.

Bye, Cova

Ps. thanks for the To Kastro rec

We're also planning to see Naxos and Santorini in late Sept... in that order as a build-up. Going the other way you may find Naxos a let-down.

Tableronde, are you saying that as someone who has been to both places, or because you've been told that? There are many of us who would disagree with you. Santorini has a beautiful caldera view. Naxos os a total greek-island experience, more authentic than Santorini can offer as a major cruise and package-tour destination. It is a must-see, yes, but a "see" rather than experience.

There are many Mini Markets near St George Beach. If you can find Porto Naxos Hotel which is about a half kilometer from St George Beach you will find a very good grocery store on the main road out to the airport. Its prices are much cheaper than the local mini markets. Having said that my favorite wine Bell Helene is available at a local mini market 200 meters from St George Beach for 4 euro for 2 liters so be sure to check out every market for the best prices.
The roads in Naxos are very good now. Once you get out into the countryside there is very little traffic so you can go slowly and safely despite the narrow roads. You will not regrret renting a car.

The best beach in Naxos is Plaka Beach. It is closer than Migri Vigla and much better.

For your birthday celebration previous posters have mentioned Taverna To Kastro.
It is the best taverna in Naxos and you will have an unforgettable experience there. Tell them it is your birthday they love family occasions. What no one has topld you is how hard it is to find Taverna to Kastro. Be persistant it is really worth it.
Follow these directions.

On the waterfront find the jewelery store Margareta’s. It is about halfway along the main waterfront promenade towards the ferry dock. Beside Margareta’s you will find a narrow alley that leads up into the old town. Follow that and it will lead to a storefront. You can only turn right here. Follow the alley further and in about 20 meters or so you will walk directly into another store front. This time the alley veers slightly to the right. Do not take this path. Turn left and walk another 20 meters until you come up to a stone wall. Again you can only turn right here. Walk about 50 meters and you will come to a broad set of stairs. Follow them to the top and you will step right into the square where Taverna to Kastro is. This whole walk will take about 3 minutes from the waterfront.

Beware there are two tavernas in this square. Kastro is right at the top of the stairs and you will see a statue. Kastro is in front of the statue. The taverna behind the statue just doesn’t cut it. They have smaller servings are more expensive and many people have been fooled in thinking they were the same. I know because I too got fooled and decided never to return before I realized that this was not the real thing. Even if you have to wait for a table do not be tempted to go behind the statue! Ypu will find people waiting for a table at kastro which is very rare in Naxos in May and June. Tavern to Kastro is just outside the Kastro fortress walls.

The owner’s name is Soulas. He is the bearded man in the picture. Always running until he has time to sit and drink with the patrons. Here is a link to our webshots picture of the restaurant. It will help you identify the place. Bon appetite!

http://travel.webshots.com/album/552001505EYxVYT

Cova, in my younger days I drove racing cars, so I'm no 'shrinking violet'. When on the Greek Islands, though, I prefer to let someone else do the driving. I love to walk, and take the bus when it's too far to go on foot.

No doubt I've missed out a a few things by not renting a car, but I don't care. When I travel to the Greek Islands, I leave behind cars, television, and computers. Walking, swimming, reading, and eating in tavernas are my recreations.

BTW, I rank that bus trip in the thunderstorm right up there with the best thrill rides at Six Flags and Disneyworld. Every time I looked out the window all I could see was sheer drop. :-D

Stanbr, thanks for repeating those directions -- finding To Kastro is a Worthy Quest! I also find it useful to print out this Excellent map of Naxos Town/St. George beach to keep oneself oriented -- On this Map, To Kastro is right where #32 is.
http://www.naxos-greece.net/villages/TOPOGRAFIKO.HTML

PS: your photo link was to your entire Naxos Album -- the shot of To Kastro is #83 "Dining".

Hi cova,

For one of your other meals on Naxos, I can recommend Nissaki on St. George's Beach.

After visiting the kouras, Apollonas is a nice place to have lunch.

Moni is famous for handmade lace.

JQ

Stan, thanks for the very detailed explanation. I am sure we won´t get lost ;)

Heimdall, my mum keeps reminding me of that sheer drop, and she keeps telling me that there must be some nice buses to move around. It´s kind of funny how she got affected by it ... And mum was the copilot for my dad before and after getting married. They were doing mountain rallyes all over Spain, and the highlight of their honeymoon was a bit of climbing in Chamonix and doing part of the Montecarlo rally.

Tableronde, we are doing the islands in that order exactly for the reasons mentioned by Janet. When I was in Greece for the first time, we went first to Santorini and then Naxos. Santorini was lovely and impressing, but we felt that Naxos was more real. We had a really great and relaxing time in Naxos, and that´s what we are aiming for this time. To us, it felt as if real people were living there, the kids were running around, we watched the UEFA final at a cafe in the harbour, went to the supermarket, got a couple of decent books at Zoom ... I am really afraid of having told my friend so many good things of Naxos.

JQ, I have written down the place you mention.

Thanks to all, Cova

Cova, your mom probably also tells stories about how few Greeks could speak English (now, 5-year-olds chatter with you in ENglish), how seldom you could find a room with a bath (now, that's the ONLY kind you get), and how you could live on 300 drachmas a day.

Times do change. And the Greeks embrace change. An off-topice anecdote -- In 2005 I went to an internet cafe in Fira Town (one with 30=40 computers) at 3 pm only to find a "closed" sign up. The owner popped out and said, in order that our children will have the most uptodate computers to learn on, we close on Monday thru Friday for 4 hours and the school conducts classes here.

That's why Greece -- a country with almost no major national resources (except brains and spunk)-- has managed to survive and thrive.

Jan, I am afraid that I haven´t explained myself.

I was trying to tell tableronde why we had decided on that Santorini-Naxos option, and why I thought that it would work better for us.

We were in Greece in 2000. We had been thinking of travelling there for 2, 3 years, but things happened and we changed our plans. So, off we went. We are spanish, mum doesn´t speak english, and she did have a wonderful time (and sometimes I think she understood more that what we did). She is not too fond of the "quaint", idyllic" images some people paint of other countries. Spain is seriously affected by that mindset and we fully understand the differences.

In Athens we had dinner with a greek friend at a place with a view of the Akropolis that "gasp !!!" didn´t serve moussaka and was trying to give a modern twist to the traditional fare. We loved it !

What we liked about Naxos was probably the same thing you were mentioning : real people living their lives. There was a feeling of : "OK, tourism is very important for us, but we have more things to offer and to do". I found Santorini stunning, but it was so geared towards tourists and so on ...

It´s only my two cents, and I hope I haven´t offended anyone. I am really looking forward to this holiday. This year has been specially stressing at work, and I am already dreaming with the beaches and the sun.

Bye, Cova

We spent 8 days on Naxos in June. 3 of the days we rented an ATV and had a blast. We went everywhere. My motto for the two islands we drove on, Naxos and Santorini, is "around every curve is another curve". You have to pay attention but if we could do it on an ATV, a car will be easy. The roads are not that bad. We made it to Mikri Vigla twice. It was one of our favorite beaches. We had the best meal of our two week trip in Apollon.

Wow, Cova, now I understand -- as you could tell, I thought your mother was telling you about some longago visit.

Totally agree with you about Naxos being more "real." Of course it is so fertile, has such agriculture that if all tourists disappeared tomorrow, a few souvenir shops would close, but otherwise, Naxians would shrug and continue about their business!

In Fact, I've been to Naxos as early as May 9 or 10, and all the harborside restaurants were busy... filled with locals enjoying a dinner out. I get the feeling that the outlook of Naxians (and many other island people)is, "We started up these tavernas because WE like to go out at night -- and if the rest of you want to join us, that's fine!"

Enjoy your stay! I shall be back in '09 in June for my 8th time in Naxos.

Hi All,

I've been checking in from time to time, and notice a number of posts about Fodorites being in the same areas in September...gee, will we be tripping over each other without even knowing it?! :)

I've never hooked up with any Fodorites before, but I wouldn't mind saying hello and having a chat if we're going to be in the same place @ the same time!

My schedule is:

Sept. 15 Naxos

Sept. 19 depart Naxos on ferry for Santorini.

Sept. 23 Flying from Santorini to Rhodes

Sept. 30 Fly back to Athens, and depart for California the next day.

Regards,

Melodie

From your comments, I am glad to see that both Naxos and Santorini are win-win situations, each for its own features, when compared with one's personal criteria.
In our case photography is playing an important role.
I am wondering, having decided in favor of public transportation over rental, how easy it will be for us to get by bus to far points of Naxos. Or in the case of Paros, to hike up and get a view from the tallest point in the Cyclades.

ROundTable --

About getting to pix-worthy spots:

Naxos has an excellent bus system -- here is a Bus Timetable
http://www.naxosdestinations.com/html/tours.html
Here are 2 Naxos Maps (1 is Huuuge)
http://www.thesaurus.gr/map_of_naxos_island.htm
http://www.naxosdestinations.com/html/map.html

PAROS Bus timetable (Bus network not as extensive as Naxos)
http://paroslife.parosweb.com/timetable.html?id=1

... I have found in several islands that it often works well to take a taxi 1 way and a bus the other - that way u cn get around infrenquencies.

BTW, who said Paros has highest peak in Cyclades?? I always thought it was Mt. Zas in Naxos. And if you like hikes Naxos is about the best spot for hiking in the Cyclades according to this Belgian guy who obsessively charts hikes for all these islands -- here's his GREAT website:
http://www.cycladen.be/NaxosEng.htm (he considers Paros not an ideal hiking island, due to distances).

Yes, you can take pix in Santorini that look just like the postcards -- but you can tak pix on Naxos that nobody else will have! Take a look at these from Fodorite Stanbr, and ask yourself if you can equal these!

http://travel.webshots.com/slideshow/552001505EYxVYT
(Hint: click on foto & speed up slide change to 3 secs).

Enjoy your trip!!

Just to let you know that we are back since last week. I hope to have a bit of time during the next weeks to write my impressions, but I thought that I should say that we had a great time and thanks to all of you for the nice words.

We ended up not having dinner at To Kastro (too much rabbit at the menu), going on a bus excursion instead of driving across the island, swimming far too many times at the beach, and overall, having a great time.

Bye, Cova

Thanks for checking back in Cova, and we are delighted that you had a good time. That island bus excursion can be fun! i remember I went on it, my first time in Naxos, in 1999, and met a neat Irish lass, from an ad agency of all places.

We found out the bus stopped in Appollonas at taverna for a mandatory 90-minute lunch break (so the bus driver could take his daily nap in the bus). Quel annoying!

However,forewarned, I'd packed a large picnic and wore a swimsuit under my clothes, so from just outside the taverna I leapt into the Aegean. Miss Ireland cried, "Brilliant!" stripped to her undies, we both swam for an hour, ate my lunch, she wrapped a scarf around herself and back on the bus we got-- to the envious stares of all others. Great fun!