Thank you Bob. I enjoyed this so much and loved the photos.
One thing puzzled me, there are people who need ceramic shopping breaks??
((F)) Grazie for the time you spent putting this here for us to enjoy~

=D> =D> =D>

Thank you Bob, for a wonderful trip report. :)

I have been thinking about visiting Sicily for two years now. Two things have prevented me from doing so:

1. Driving terror, which I think I have dissipated somewhat with by positive experience in Umbria

2. Difficulty/time getting there. I must do it over a four-day weekend, for the FIRST visit.

Two questions Bob:

- I have visited Rome, Florence, Venice, Bologna, Naples and environs, The Dolomites, Tuscany, Umbria. Am I ready for Sicily or should I consider somewhere else first?

- If I have only 3-5 days, where should I base myself to make the most of the uniqueness of Sicily? I am passionate about art, architecture, and history. Is 3-5 days enough?

Thanks Bob.
Best regards Ger

Ger, You are probably ready but I would save it for when you have more time. It can fit well with an Amalfi coast itinerary or even a Puglia sojourn. But, I would not try to squeeze Sicily in the cracks--it deserves at least 10 days.

Ger,

I agree with Bobthenavigator that Sicily needs more than 3 to 5 days, but I also recall your mentioning at one time that you add short trips of 3 to 5 days to business trips in Europe.

I think you could do a number of things in 5 days:

1. Eastern Sicily: Taormina, Siracusa, and a day trip to one or two of Noto, Ragusa and Modica;

2. "Central" Sicily: Palermo, Monreale (which is basically a suburb of Palermo), and either Segesta and Selinunte or Agrigento. (Some people prefer Selinunte because it is less crowded than Agrigento, but Agrigento does have one of the most intact Greek temples anywhere. But the temple and theatre in Segesta are also quite wonderful.)

There will be a number of places well worth seeing that would not be included in either of the above "itineraries," such as Cefalu, the Villa Casale near Piazza Armerina, Caltagirone (if you are into ceramics), a short hop across the strait from Messina to Reggio di Calabria to see the two splendid Riace bronzes. Erice is considered a must-see by many people, but I personally was totally underwhelmed, except by the almond pastries of Maria Grammatico.

I would not give up on Sicily because you cannot give it 10 days at a time. It's a unique palimpsest of cultures -- Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Swabian, and Spanish-Bourbon (and I've probably forgotten one or two). The food is wonderful and quite unlike anything anywhere else in Italy (the Arab influence lingers on even after 1000 years); wine is plentiful, good and inexpensive; the people are warm and outgoing.

You would not regret going to Sicily, I am sure.

Well said Eloise !

You guys are the BEST :)

Wonderful response Eloise, thank you. Yes, I try to take those weekends tagged onto my business trips. You have given me lots to think about.

Many thanks to ou both.

regards Ger

topping

Bob, what a treat! Thank you! And I couldn't agree more about getting lost, whether you're in a car or on foot, getting lost is great and can reveal so many gems and treasures, as long as one doesn't stress out. My best friend went to Siracusa and Catania years ago and is still talking about the trip and sharing the photos, and I can't blame her, because it all sounds and looks delightful. I'm really happy you gave Palermo a chance. Mr. and Mrs. Go have their work cut out for them if they hope to top this trip report---but then again, the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, does it?

Leaving today for my trip to Rome, and then one of your favorites, the Italian Lake District---report to follow, and I already have my notebook in my purse!

Thanks again,
BC

Hey BC, Molto grazie and I hope your trip is wonderful. Yes, we do expect a report. The Go family is off to the AC in June. They have rented an apt. above Positano and have been getting their legs in shape--they will need to.

Topping for Alice

Bob - my wife and I are currently planning an 8 or 9 night trip to Sicily in early November. 1st time to there, 2nd time to Italy. We plan to arrive from Malta and then fly to Rome. Just read your thread. We would welcome your suggested itinerary for that span and time of year.
Since it will be late fall we expect the beach areas to be closed. My Italian is limited to good pronunciation with no comprehension so ordering a cappucino and saying good evening is about it.

Gil

Gil, I will have to assume you are arriving at Catania from Malta. I also assume you will be driving in Sicily. Given those assumptions, I would pick 3 destinations. Taormina would be one, and Palermo would be another--the third would depend on you and your interests. You can fly to Rome from both Palermo and Catania. So, tell me more and I will try to help.

Bob - Malta is 5 nights. it appears there is a ferry to Pozzallo (but not sure if it will be running in November). If we go that way will rent a car and head out from there. Catania is the next ferry choice. You all made Taormina sound good. You also have concinced me to brave Polemro, drop the car then spend 3 nights there at the end the trip and fly to Rome. We are figuring 9 nights in Sicily and 5 in Rome but we have been to Rome before and have no flight yet from Sicily so we are still flexible. My wife and I have concentric interests. I like the connection and trying to communicate. To me, an hour or so in a salamaria is heaven whereas my wife would like an educational tour of anything. So I take lots of photos and try to take it all in and she wants to learn something. Between us I learn something and I make sure she is fed. We love the discovery of a nice little town, finding music, expploring but at the same time a good restauarant, a good bed and feeling like we took in some history is a good day. Maybe the best answer to what our interets are: our favorite italian experience is seeing a flyer in Spoleto for a recital in Bevagnia, driving there, going to the Teatro and then talking and pointing my way into the Theatre Guild Luncheon for 3 hour feast with 12 italians and their spouses from england, germany and france and italy. Favorite photo is my wife's face in an apron full of truffles in Norcia. Does that help? Thanks

Gil, We actually were in Pozallo and I doubt if you can rent a car there--check it out. Perhaps thru Auto Europa.
If you start there, and based on your style, I would not miss Noto--a real jewel. You could also stay at Il Limoneto as a base for SE Sicily to include Siracusa. Then, up to Taormina and finally to Palermo. Yes, drop the car there but perhaps try to see Monreale before you enter Palermo. Another stop enroute would be the beach town of Cefalu. Good luck !

Bob,

I truly enjoyed your report. I am in the initial stages of planning an 8 day trip in late Feb - early Mar next year (the time is basically locked in). I am hoping to pick your brain!

I know we want to spend 4 nights in Palermo. Trying to figure out whether we should do 3 nights Taormina and 1 in Cefalu. Or should we just focus on the western coast? Perhaps 1 night Cefalu and 1 in Trapani to see Erice and Segesta and 2 in Agigento to see the area.

Weather wise, it looks like on the west coast, its lows of 50 and highs of 59. On the east its lows in the lower 40s and highs of 62.

I lean toward putting in Taormina, but am unsure whether the temps should make us wait. Obviously there will be no beaching it, but I am hoping the town itself is worthy, plus we could take a trip to the North Side of Etna.

Also, we are not really wanting to rent a car - we rented one in Spain for the hill towns - and we found it quite harrowing - don't want to do that again if we can avoid it.

Do you think either itinerary can be done well without a car - and do you think doing Taormina is feasible in late Feb?

I appreciate your thoughts!
EA

Hello EA, With so little time I would stay north on this trip. It is very hard to get to the Greek temple sites using public transport. Start in Palermo, then to Cefalu, and end in Taormina---you can fly back from Catania. The train station at Taormina is actually at Giardini/Naxos, but is very close to town---I believe you will need to connect in Messina. I think those 3 destinations will give you a good taste of Sicily--I would keep it simple that time of year.

Palermo-Agrigento is two hours by train.

Bob, this is one splendid report! This November my wife and I plan to go to Sicily, a return pilgrimage for me after more than half a century.

Back then, I was in the service and Sicily was a very different place, let me tell you. Catania was off-limits because local Communists had been kidnapping American servicemen for ransome. Palermo was seedy, dirty, rundown.

In some places, you could see horrendous bomb and shelling damage, especially around Palermo and Messina. Most bridges had been blown up, and replaced with steel military Bailey Bridges.

Food was in short supply. A lot of the kids were dressed in what can only be described as rags. Wonderful lemons, lots of coconuts, pitiful pizza made out of who-knows-what.

The roads were in complete disrepair. We carried medical supplies to villages up in the hills where we were greeted as if we were Men from Mars. People just stared at us. The heat was like a furnace under a never-ending sun. Lots of dust, little water, and none you could drink. The local wine was OK but nothing to write home about.

It will be interesting to see how things have changed.

Mille grazie USNR, I assume that you are retired Navy by that handle. Yes, it will be a real contrast for you. Good luck and holler if I can help.

Bob,

That is just the type of advice I needed! Thanks so much!!

Take care,
EA