My Two Weeks in the Engadine
I received some great hiking tips in this forum so thought I would post a summary of my recent trip. I'm a solo female traveler, early 70s. Weather was cool and rainy first 3 days and the last day but clear and sunny for most of my mountain hikes.
The first week I was based in Sils Maria at Hotel Maria. I loved this hotel: a comfy quiet room, incredible food (I took half board), and most of all a very friendly and welcoming staff. Some highlights:
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My eyes lit up when I saw your title!
Happy to see this, there’s so much to do in the area, what a fantastic 2 weeks. Should you return, consider a week in the Lower Engadine as well. |
Oh, I see from your planning thread that you have based previously in Ardez, wonderful, I’d forgotten that.
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We stayed at that exact hotel two years ago, yes it is very nice. We were not aware we needed to reserve the half board meals in advance and were sadly disappointed in checking in that they were all taken, leaving us to eat in the adjoining restaurant and other places. A rookie error, but be aware advance reservations should be made with your hotel reservation to be safe. This is a very beautiful, but expensive area of Switzerland. Well worth it but a favorite of the rich and very well to do.
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Thanks for writing, 70traveler, great to hear that you had a wonderful time. Such a beautiful part of the world.
May I ask, did you ever feel uncomfortable hiking on your own? It's something I've thought of often when I contemplate hiking solo and don't know whether I'm being unreasonably risk averse. But I can't always find someone to go with and if the alternative is to not go, then I think better to go. Any advice to offer? |
Your trip sounds wonderful and I am so glad you chose the Hotel Maria. I have stayed there several times myself and I love it. Plus I have known the owners for 15 years or so and I know how much care they take about their guests. Liked the comments about the food too - their pasta is particularly yummy I think! Sils Maria and the surrounding area is truly magnificent!
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Thanks for this trip report. Very glad you enjoyed your time in the Engadine so much. The hikes sound wonderful, some of them are among my favourites, too.
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I love the entire Engadine region, Upper and Lower. For me it seems more relaxing, less rushed, and definitely less tourists. Though I tend to avoid summer in Switzerland and travel in late September/early October.
I never felt uncomfortable hiking on my own especially in Switzerland. I try to use my common sense (I did not hike to Fuorcla Pass when the trail was completely snow covered but returned to do it when the snow line had receded). And I make sure I have the right gear in my daypack (rain clothes, extra layers, first aid kit, etc). For this trip I also had Traveler's Wifi that I rented in Zurich Airport so I was always connected and had several indispensable apps loaded on my phone (Swiss Mobility so I could see where I was on a trail, the Swiss transportation app to see bus and train times, and the Swiss weather app). I did not exceed my budget of $4000 for the two weeks ($1200 of that was was airfare and travel insurance) and I also had a hotel in Zurich for my final night, so I didn't find it expensive. The free transport cards the hotels provide are an incredible value. I bought two Day Saver passes to get me to the region and then back to Zurich. I should note that I don't drink and that after 6 nights of incredible four course meals in Sils Maria, I only had two full dinners in Pontresina and the rest of my meals were takeout from bakeries or the Coop, or lunches at the alp restaurants. I can't wait to return! |
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