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Marvelous Marseille!
We spent about a week in Marseille around the US Thanksgiving holiday. We weren't planning to write a trip report – but since there isn’t much information here about this city, we thought we'd share our experience. Marseille has a reputation for being dangerous. It is a little gritty, but we had such a great time there and never felt uneasy.
Why Marseille? We started the year with a mountain of United Airlines Plus Points (upgrade awards) that expire in January 2024. These aren’t easy to use, but I’ve been determined not to let them go to waste. I had a hunch I could find some transatlantic (Chicago-Germany) flights with award availability around the holidays, when business travel is lighter. I was right. The question then was, where to go? We had a maximum of one week. For a late-November trip, we wanted to be around the Mediterranean, where the weather wouldn’t be too cold. And because it would be a short trip, we wanted one destination – a city that provided diverse experiences plus some easy day trips but that was new to us (we’ve been to Valencia, Barcelona, Nice, Rome, Naples…and are planning to go to Sicily next year). After a quick look at the map, we zeroed in on Marseille and Genoa. The flight schedule was more favorable for Marseille, so decision made. Accommodation: Les Appartements du Vieux Port For a stay of this length, we prefer an apartment with space to spread out. This establishment has 30-40 apartment options. We chose a one-bedroom unit with a nice outdoor terrace. It was a little chilly and windy for sitting outside, but we were able to use the terrace a few times. Otherwise, our unit was very comfortable, with modern furnishings including a washer. There’s a reception desk open during the day and evening, and the staff are very responsive and helpful. The location can’t be beat – two blocks off the port and walkable to just about everything, including the train station. https://www.lesappartementsduvieuxport.com https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95caae670.jpeg Our fantastic third-floor patio Vieux Port The “old port” has been at the center of city life since the ancient Greek civilization. Today, there are wide pedestrian walkways around much of it, particularly on the Quai du Port (north side), and activity all day. In the morning, there’s a small fish market right at the top end – and a larger farmer’s market on Sunday. Ferries leave from here to the islands and calanques. Otherwise, you can admire the numerous and varied watercraft, including a collection of historic boats along one side. If you don’t want to walk around the port, there’s a ferry that crosses from one side to the other for 50 cents. Two old forts – Fort Saint-Jean and Fort Saint-Nicolas – tower over the entrance to the port. We enjoyed the views down to the port from various vantage points. I think it’s certainly one of the most picturesque city waterfronts we’ve seen. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf4b380a9.jpeg Spot your yacht! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...deef91e8b.jpeg Ferry to cross the port https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a3c5c991.jpeg View down on the port from the hills of Le Panier https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3ef37b0f.jpeg Sailing out (more on that later) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf7fabdbd.jpeg Sailboat passing Fort Saint-Jean https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d67fcb0fb.jpeg Sunday morning farmer's market https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59baf4046.jpeg Cathedrale de la Major, behind Fort Saint-Jean https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5a99d02f.jpeg Looking down on the port from Palais du Pharo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c113e104.jpeg At sunset https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96ed04ca4.jpeg Along the walls of Fort Saint-Jean Next up, exploring the history. |
I'm so glad to see this report. Marseille is a place I haven't been despite many trips to France & I've been thinking about the possibility. Thanks for this!
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Originally Posted by MmePerdu
(Post 17517318)
I'm so glad to see this report. Marseille is a place I haven't been despite many trips to France & I've been thinking about the possibility. Thanks for this!
History Marseille has a fascinating history. The city was a prominent port during the Greek civilization, and the prehistoric settlements in the area date much further back. We had intended to visit MuCEM – the Museum of the Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean – on our last day. Oops: We neglected to check which day it was closed and, yes, that was Tuesday. Not to worry. The Musee d'Histoire de la Ville de Marseille is well worthy of the time, with educational exhibits across three floors that span prehistory to the current day, including extensive coverage of the evolution of the port. Roman ruins in the yard outside were once part of the old port. Better yet, admission is free. Museum staff outnumbered the visitors. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26b2517a9.jpeg Ruins of a Cassis-stone paved road dating to the 2nd-4th C BC. The grooves make the pavement less slippery for horse carriages. There's an older pebbled road underneath. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3704cb65e.jpeg The fortifications were part of the entrance to the old city. They date to the 2nd C BC. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06f519d64.jpeg Excavated boats https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a78b685a.jpeg Greek era amphora ~500-600 years BC https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7da789396.jpeg Greek stele representing a woman in a chapel, ~500 BC https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71850a4ab.jpeg 3D exhibits show what the port looked like at various stages. In this one, Greek temples are visible in what is now Le Panier. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...621bbe8b9.jpeg A later rendering about 500 years old. The red arrow points to our apartment. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd45ebdf4.jpeg Giant floor map of modern Marseille. The red dot between us is the location of the museum, which was on the site of the ancient port. The green dot (I added) is where we stayed. |
Notre-Dame de la Garde
The basilica is set on the site of an ancient fort on a hilltop, towering about 500 feet over the city. Construction on the current basilica began in the 1850s, and it is known for its Neo-Byzantine mosaics. Our Uber driver from the airport had a number of suggestions for our time in the city. One of those was to walk up to the basilica and arrive a little before sunset. Once we got settled into our apartment, that’s exactly what we did. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd1db6a8e.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e30710cc9.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80b7a2516.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a66e2fa6b.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...470029421.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37b981623.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b4eeb667.jpeg On the walk back down |
Along for the ride, thanks for the TR. Yes, Marseille isn’t one of the popular tourist destinations, but it’s highly underrated IMO, thanks for sharing your experiences.
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Glad to read more about a city that interests me. Did your apartment building have an elevator?
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Very happy to see a positive report about much maligned Marseille. Usually all that one sees here is "I heard it was dangerous and I'm not interested."
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Originally Posted by kerouac
(Post 17517338)
Very happy to see a positive report about much maligned Marseille. Usually all that one sees here is "I heard it was dangerous and I'm not interested."
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Fabulous TR, ms_go! And it’s at the top of our list to visit! Your photos are beautiful - that light at sunset from the basilica is a big WOW!
We had a trip here planned for the fall of 2020 but we all know what happened then. You’ve reminded me that we really do want to make sure to visit Marseille before too long. |
Thank you! I loved Marseille but left with much unseen, so itks great to have your lovely photos and story to motivate me. Looks like a stellar choice of apartment hotel, too.
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Kudos for walking to Notre Dame de la Garde! It took the bus 20+ minutes. Gorgeous pictures, ms_go.
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Thanks, all! Now I think a better name for this report would have been, A Marvelous Week in Much-Maligned Marseille
SusanP: Our apartment was three floors up, and there was no lift. This helped us walk off all the good food we were eating (post on that to come later). That said, that apartment company does have 30 or 40 units in several buildings right in that block, and it is possible one of the other buildings may have a lift. Frioul Archipelago Normally, a day trip out to walk/hike in the Calanques (rocky, limestone coves that are mostly east of Marseille) would be right up our alley. But with the wind and temps struggling to reach 50, that didn't sound appealing. Instead, the Frioul Archipelago, a small group of four islands about a 20-minute boat ride from the port, offered a little taste of the coast in a more compact timeframe. Due to the wind, ferries were not able to dock at the most popular of the four islands, If (site of the Chateau d'If of "Count of Monte Cristo" fame), so we instead headed to the Port du Frioul. A couple hundred people live on the islands, and there are some ruins of old fortifications and other structures scattered around. We had limited time due to a Sunday lunch reservation but still enjoyed 1.5 hours of exploring. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e217ed4b8.jpeg We had a nice view of the archipelago on our flight into Marseille https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...776835450.jpeg A murmuration as we started our walk https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58ef3c167.jpeg We spent our time on the island of Pomègues - the walk from the port to the far end is about 45 minutes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c60889cde.jpeg You can see Marseille in the distance https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78406204c.jpeg Hopital Caroline was a quarantine station built on the island in the 1820s (now ruined) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12829a8a7.jpeg Steps from the waterfront to Hopital Caroline https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a8426cd4.jpeg View across the calanque to the ruined Hopital Caroline https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34424ef2b.jpeg There are a couple hundred people living on the island - but many, many more birds https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c48776ec2.jpeg Some of the ruins on the island https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cd6d2d03.jpeg More ruins https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...389f7b07e.jpeg Calanque de Morgiret https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1482b9f97.jpeg Port du Frioul https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db4b045cc.jpeg Chateau d'If from the boat on the ride back - no stopping there on this day due to high winds |
I just hope that you get a chance to return and visit the MuCEM, which I consider to be essential to any trip to Marseille, as well as a stroll around the "Panier" which is right next to it.
The "Panier" district of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com) |
Originally Posted by kerouac
(Post 17517461)
I just hope that you get a chance to return and visit the MuCEM, which I consider to be essential to any trip to Marseille, as well as a stroll around the "Panier" which is right next to it.
The "Panier" district of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com) |
And since you didn't go to the calanques, which is very hit-or-miss depending on the wind (The day before I went the trips were cancelled, and the day after I went, the trips were cancelled due to the wind.), here is my view of them:
The calanques of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com) |
Thank you for the elevator info.
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ms_go,
I love your report and your photos are gorgeous. I had always put Marseille on my "maybe but..." list but you've now convinced me! |
What a great set of photos and report of such an interesting city.
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Originally Posted by kerouac
(Post 17517468)
And since you didn't go to the calanques, which is very hit-or-miss depending on the wind (The day before I went the trips were cancelled, and the day after I went, the trips were cancelled due to the wind.), here is my view of them:
The calanques of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com)
Originally Posted by Maribel
(Post 17517490)
ms_go,
I love your report and your photos are gorgeous. I had always put Marseille on my "maybe but..." list but you've now convinced me! And thanks for following along, Adelaidean. It is a very interesting city, and I'm glad we were able to have the time there that we did. |
ms_go, it's wonderful to see your report and photos of Marseilles! Our oldest daughter lived in Provence for 10 years with her French husband and their children. In June they re-located to the Dallas area for their jobs, but while they were in France we visited on a fairly regular basis for 10 years. We made several daytrips to Marseilles (in fact our daughter bought her wedding dress in Marseilles), but we never stayed overnight. The last time we were there was a year ago in December to help our son-in-law with the children when our daughter was on a work trip. We spent a day in Marseilles and visited the Le Panier district for the first time which I thought was absolutely fascinating! I took tons and tons of photos of the gritty and unique street art.
We visited the calanques once in the summer many years ago. Last December we decided to visit Cassis again. None of the boats were running of course. It was a drizzly windy day and it was interesting to see Cassis without the tourist crowds. Looking forward to more of your report and photos! |
Thanks, KarenWoo. How nice that you were able to spend so much time with your family there! In going through our photos and writing this, I'm realizing how much we didn't get to - so I think another trip sometime will be in order.
Neighborhoods There’s nothing we love more than wandering through interesting neighborhoods on foot. Marseille has many, and I think we barely scratched the surface. The best known area is probably Le Panier – which will have to be in a future post, because it’s so colorful and we have several hundred photos to sort through first. Noailles is a diverse neighborhood with a vibrant market and many trendy restaurants. It is very close to where we stayed – and while we walked through it a few times, we remarkably came away with almost no photos. Adjacent is Cours Julien, known for its street art/graffiti, local shops and nightlife (alas, we were there in the morning). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a5b78ee8.jpeg Noailles https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65ce07366.jpeg Escaliers du Cours Julien https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0096514bd.jpeg Escaliers du Cours Julien https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b663e913.jpeg Escaliers du Cours Julien https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b9008214.jpeg Escaliers du Cours Julien, looking down into Noailles https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21a7ee763.jpeg Cours Julien https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...604d8de96.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a91592513.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3692e17ac.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8af1e1ee.jpeg I hope you're not tired of street art, because Le Panier is coming next. |
Going to Provence for the month of March and flying in and out of Marseille and so will spend some time there and really enjoyed your post and especially your pics!
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Makes me want to pack my bags! Thanks for posting.
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Thanks, jan47ete and Nikki. Nikki, I still need to catch up on your trip report, because that's definitely on our wish list!
Le Panier is the oldest part of the city. It is a hilly area essentially on the north side of the port. In the Greek civilization, there were several temples up the hill. Today, Le Panier is best known for the street art and graffiti that adorn buildings and many staircases up and down through the area. The Marseille tourism site calls it an “open-air museum.” We were through this area a couple of times – once on purpose to see it, and once enroute somewhere else. I’m not sure what it's like during the summer, but we found it very quiet and peaceful. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...319d46b34.jpeg School children learning about the oldest house in Marseille: Hotel de Cabre ~1530 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc7ae02fc.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44f1435cb.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef697335a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccf4bcc8a.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d73ca7bc6.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b953874b4.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d177e3d5f.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6885b72a4.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c57e5fcd3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bba03e99e.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abc1df448.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f09627203.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba887d5ba.jpeg At night |
Tucked within Le Panier is la Vieille Charité, founded in 1640 as housing for the poor. Today, it houses several museums and exhibitions, including the second-largest collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts in France. Most of the museums are free, although one still needs a ticket (this caused a bit of confusion).
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11a59890f.jpeg La Vieille Charite interior courtyard - the corridors lead to various museums https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01e40faa7.jpeg Chapel inside the courtyard https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a01806f1.jpeg There's also a museum of ancient Egyptian artifacts that is the second largest collection in France https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...889081a09.jpeg Museum of Mediterranean archaeology https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...294c84126.jpeg In the Egyptian museum On the edge of Le Panier are Cathedrale Basilique Sainte-Marie-Majeure (La Major), an 1800s neo-Byzantine cathedral, and Eglise Saint-Laurent. The latter has been the fishermen’s parish since the Middle Ages and is the only medieval parish church remaining in Marseille. It wasn’t open when we were there, so we only saw the outside. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16b02a748.jpeg La Major visible from a street in Le Panier https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...358ecee29.jpeg Inside the basilica https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5bb9d349d.jpeg Mosaic floors in the basilica https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0984b3f32.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0693089ab.jpeg Eglise Saint-Laurent https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...904169b6c.jpeg Eglise Saint-Laurent |
Such an interesting city! Beautifully shot.
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Wonderful trip report! I've been to France almost 40 times and have avoided Marseille, except for a lunch there in 1967 (gritty then, too). I will give it another try!
By the way, "Pas de Pub" means "no ads (junk mail)". Sandra |
Originally Posted by jars50
(Post 17517830)
Wonderful trip report! I've been to France almost 40 times and have avoided Marseille, except for a lunch there in 1967 (gritty then, too). I will give it another try!
By the way, "Pas de Pub" means "no ads (junk mail)". Sandra |
ms_go, your photo of the street art depicting about 8 people on the loooong motorbike, with the peach/pink background, looks familiar to me. So I checked my photos from last December, and sure enough, I have the same photo except the green lettering above it is not there. Looks like the artist added to his/her work. I love all your photos. You have a lot of different shots than what I have of Le Panier. You are making me homesick for France.:)
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Great trip report, ms go! Marseille was on our list, but you have definitely made me move it way up on our list of places to go. So many places you've described (and beautifully photographed) sound and look so interesting!
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KarenWoo, I have a feeling the street art evolves continuously - with the original artists and others adding to it. I only posted a few of our photos. We have several hundred :toj:
Florida1, thanks for following. I think you'd like it and hope you can get that on the travel agenda soon! And see you soon :) Holiday festivities Before our trip, the local websites were a little ambiguous about the dates of the Christmas market. The market is on La Canebière, the main shopping street running east from the port that dates from the 17th Century, as well as on the Place du General-de-Galle – literally steps outside our apartment and one end of it visible from our front window. The “cabins” were up, but unfortunately the market opened just a few days after we left. The annual foire aux santons (santon fair – vendors selling Provencal clay nativity figures) was up and running for the season on the port. It is the oldest santon fair in Provence, dating from around 1800. We did see preparations for the holiday festivities, so good times coming! And we did get to see one Christmas market in Aix-en-Provence…more to come. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e0c0ce959.jpeg The carousel isn't really part of the holiday festivities, but it is right in the middle of the Christmas market, and right outside of our apartment https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...779aabb75.jpeg Foire aux santons et aux crèches de Marseille https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e10b5085f.jpeg Santons - minimal paint https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11f917924.jpeg Santons with more paint https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bbea1bbc.jpeg Putting up the tall Christmas tree at the Vieux Port |
Beautiful photos. I haven't been to Marseilles yet, but plan to someday!
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Thank you, rosetravels. I hope you get to visit Marseille.
Day trips In 2006, we spent some time in Provence, based in Saint-Remy. We visited Arles, Gordes, Roussillon, Les Baux-de-Provence, Isle sur la Sorgue – probably a few other places. There was a food poisoning episode involved somewhere along the line. We missed a lot. On this trip, we filled in a couple of gaps with two day-trips: Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. Both destinations have TGV stations, but they are a way out of town and would have required a taxi or train transfer to get to the centers. Instead, we took the slower TER (regional) trains which go into the city centers. I honestly can’t remember the fare details, but there is a one-day pass that allows unlimited travel on the specific TER line that is much more reasonable than buying regular direct tickets online. We got these through the ticket agents in the station. By the way, another of Marseille's notable architectural features is the grand staircase up to the train station, flanked by statues that represent destinations to which people sailed from Marseille’s port. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9d2e76e7d.jpeg Staircase up to Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffd24c1d7.jpeg Statues represent destinations to which people sailed from the port Aix-en-Provence (~35 minute train ride each way) was probably the busiest place we visited on the whole trip. We did go on a Saturday, when all the markets are open – plus the seasonal Christmas markets and activities. We basically made a loop around the center city, hitting the markets and a few other sites. Most notable with the cathedral, which is built on the site of a 1st Century Roman forum. Because it was built over a number of centuries, it has a mix of Baroque, Gothic and Romanesque architectural elements. Additionally, the eight Roman columns in the baptistry date to the 5th/6th Century. It was a pretty chilly day, and we eventually settled into the excellent Brasserie des Artes for lunch. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4aed7c69.jpeg Aix was well into the Christmas spirit already https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e52312438.jpeg Christmas theme at the Saturday flower market https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d89345c1b.jpeg One of the many historic fountains around Aix https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...944eb43e3.jpeg Look up for little details https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a65d8465.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3416f44f0.jpeg Tapestry museum on the Place des Martyrs de la Resistance https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...170ed8c49.jpeg Cathedrale Saint Sauveur - the baptistry is particularly old https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b6f498be.jpeg Roman columns in the baptistry date to the 5th or 6th century https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...056a5007a.jpeg Away from the Saturday crowds https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...daf609a56.jpeg Fontaine des Prêcheurs https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14a6a1745.jpeg Elyse greeting patrons at her restaurant https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d066b567.jpeg Now to the farmers' market https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...564ff229e.jpeg A brief stop at the Christmas market https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f6b88a47.jpeg Passage Agard https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b59059cc9.jpeg |
Your photos of Aix are really making me homesick for France!:) Our daughter lived in Aix for 2 years when she first moved to France so we visited quite frequently. I love Aix! The architecture, the Old Town, the fountains, the plazas, the markets, the shops. Place d'Albertas is my favorite square in Aix with its photogenic fountain and gorgeous architecture.
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Thanks, KarenWoo. It is a gorgeous city. I can see why you miss it.
Avignon is further away, ~1:40 from Marseille by TER train. Our primary objective was to see the Palais des Papes, as well as the Pont d'Avignon (officially Pont Saint-Benezet). Avignon was the seat of Catholic popes from 1309 to 1377, and it remained under papal rule until the late 1700s. While Aix was buzzing with people on Saturday, Avignon was pretty quiet on Monday. Aside from a large and energetic school group, we encountered relatively few people inside the palace or around the city center. We also enjoyed walking around to see the gardens and medieval architecture – although that was somewhat tempered by the weather. This was the one day of our trip that involved a little rain. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e775dcd50.jpeg In contrast with bustling Aix, Avignon was very quiet https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47b796283.jpeg The plaza in front of the Papal palace https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8865c61a8.jpeg Imposing walls and main entrance of the Palais des Paper (decorated for Christmas) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46d161f65.jpeg View to the town from an upper floor of the palace https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c3c6bd59.jpeg Papal gardens https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aec8724ed.jpeg Old wooden gargoyle https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83a254beb.jpeg Some of the original tiles https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1b28bb88.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3886f084e.jpeg A small bit of the original frescoes - photography prohibited in the more elaborate painted rooms https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...306b461fe.jpeg Pont d'Avignon - formally Pont Saint-Benezet - from the city walls https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7183b5831.jpeg City walls https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54cc5d6a9.jpeg The Rhone from the bridge https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8d59779b.jpeg Chapel of Saint Nicolas on the bridge https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f77b99b26.jpeg The bridge from the Jardin des Doms above it https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f76bcb0d.jpeg Notre Dame des Doms d'Avignon (there's a lot of construction right now) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...705cc1219.jpeg Back in the city center, statue outside the Opera Grand Avignon (he looks kind of bored) |
MsGo,
Never mind. This is a very interesting report involving a place that needs some positive reportage. I am glad to hear that you and MrGo had a good time there and in Aix too. So many fine fotos. My faves include the santons, the Aix statue plus both Marseilles arches (le Panier plus the double one). Do you ever get those highlights of yours done in giclée or matted and framed or picture-plaqued? Dcd has shown some of his best imagery here (birds, not himself) that has been somehow fixed onto some metal surface, a new technique. Where to next? I am done. the MM TR |
Thanks, zebec! I was just recalling your photo of Steven Wilson and Porcupine Tree from your previous London report. I watched part of a Porcupine Tree concert blu-ray while on the treadmill today, and it made me think of that photo. Same tour, I think.
Originally Posted by zebec
(Post 17519100)
Do you ever get those highlights of yours done in giclée or matted and framed or picture-plaqued? Dcd has shown some of his best imagery here (birds, not himself) that has been somehow fixed onto some metal surface, a new technique.
Time to wrap this up. Dining Unfortunately, we never got around to having the most notable local specialty, bouillabaisse (that takes some planning and a big appetite) – but we did eat well and have no regrets. Something else for next time. We enjoyed Marseille’s extremely diverse food scene. Oddly, at two of the restaurants we went to (both fairly popular and well-reviewed), we were the only people dining – and not on the super early side, either. We asked the proprietors what was up, and both had the same answer: It’s too cold; people here don’t go out to eat when it’s this cold (50 F). Anyway, a few photos: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81c262ae8.jpeg Frites de panisses (chickpea fritters – a Marseille specialty) @ Café Bovo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aecc1aa08.jpeg Saint Jacques, crème d’artichaut, truffes du coin @ Café Bovo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29636f217.jpeg This was called something like deconstructed Snickers bar @ Café Bovo https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b44e2285a.jpeg Saumon gravlax @ La Pagaille https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b0fbb1cd.jpeg Filet de boeuf @ La Pagaille https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60c537299.jpeg Millefeuille @ La Pagaille https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6fe57688e.jpeg Riojanitos (chorizo au vin rouge) @ Iberico https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ce316d6c.jpeg La Mercerie is a popular spot in Noaille, just a couple of blocks from our apartment https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8481b925.jpeg Parmentier d’agneau (lamb) @ La Mercerie https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c909606d7.jpeg Who doesn’t like pizza – @ Le Verso (Avignon) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c019fc7fa.jpeg Syrian feast @ La Levant https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9f5a8a51.jpeg Knafeh and baklava @ La Levant https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d54ab9593.jpeg Rigatoni “Benedetto Cavalieri” sautes au figatellu et champignons @ La Cantine Weather/packing I’ve alluded to the weather above. It was dry with the exception of some sprinkles during our afternoon in Avignon. The afternoon high temperatures ranged between 50 and 60 (F), but a few of the days had fairly high winds. We’ll take brisk and windy over precipitation any day. That said, we could have – and should have – packed better. There was a Uniqlo store around the corner from our apartment, where we picked up a hat/gloves for me and a sweater for mr_go. It was all I could do to resist buying a down jacket. I already have several and should have brought one to start with, because everyone else was wearing them. I can’t speak to what it’s like in the summer, but if you’re willing to put up with a little chilly weather and beaches aren’t a priority, then low season seems to be a great time to visit. Our trip was a bit truncated. We lost the last (sixth) night of our stay in Marseille due to a Lufthansa schedule change on the Marseille-Munich flight that would have left us with 40 minutes to connect in Munich. Technically, 40 minutes is a legal connection at MUC, but we’ve been through there enough to know that everything has to go just right. So, I negotiated with United (which issued our tickets) to change our reservation to fly to Munich the evening before our transatlantic flight. We spent the night at the airport Hilton. Good thing - passport control was a mess the next morning. There’s no way we would have made a 40-minute connection. In conclusion... Five nights – too much? Absolutely not. We left wishing we had more time. Was it dangerous? It’s a big city. There are areas you probably shouldn’t go, and you should always watch your possessions. Just like Chicago. We did not feel uneasy walking around any of the areas we visited. What would we have done differently? Make sure we’re clear on which days the museums are open and closed. Pack warmer clothing. Spend time in more neighborhoods. Would we go back? Yes, we definitely will. |
Great report. I'm taking notes! 😀
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Excellent report.
Marseille is the "murder capital of France" but this only concerns drug dealers in the "northern arrondissements" where visitors absolutely never go. That adds of to 21 people this year, so compared to a lot of other cities in the world it is not exactly alarming. (Yes, there was a rare shooting on the Vieux Port this year, but it was also between drug dealers.) |
Marseille is glorious. It is not a lesser destination in Provence. Your report shows that with abundance.
FYI, Port Frioul is not instead of Les Calanques; it is one in the same, just a different location than the national park area next to Cassis. I have hiked both, and the experience is identical. Les Calanques stretch that whole part of the coast. |
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