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Marvelous Marseille!
We spent about a week in Marseille around the US Thanksgiving holiday. We weren't planning to write a trip report – but since there isn’t much information here about this city, we thought we'd share our experience. Marseille has a reputation for being dangerous. It is a little gritty, but we had such a great time there and never felt uneasy.
Why Marseille? We started the year with a mountain of United Airlines Plus Points (upgrade awards) that expire in January 2024. These aren’t easy to use, but I’ve been determined not to let them go to waste. I had a hunch I could find some transatlantic (Chicago-Germany) flights with award availability around the holidays, when business travel is lighter. I was right. The question then was, where to go? We had a maximum of one week. For a late-November trip, we wanted to be around the Mediterranean, where the weather wouldn’t be too cold. And because it would be a short trip, we wanted one destination – a city that provided diverse experiences plus some easy day trips but that was new to us (we’ve been to Valencia, Barcelona, Nice, Rome, Naples…and are planning to go to Sicily next year). After a quick look at the map, we zeroed in on Marseille and Genoa. The flight schedule was more favorable for Marseille, so decision made. Accommodation: Les Appartements du Vieux Port For a stay of this length, we prefer an apartment with space to spread out. This establishment has 30-40 apartment options. We chose a one-bedroom unit with a nice outdoor terrace. It was a little chilly and windy for sitting outside, but we were able to use the terrace a few times. Otherwise, our unit was very comfortable, with modern furnishings including a washer. There’s a reception desk open during the day and evening, and the staff are very responsive and helpful. The location can’t be beat – two blocks off the port and walkable to just about everything, including the train station. https://www.lesappartementsduvieuxport.com https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95caae670.jpeg Our fantastic third-floor patio Vieux Port The “old port” has been at the center of city life since the ancient Greek civilization. Today, there are wide pedestrian walkways around much of it, particularly on the Quai du Port (north side), and activity all day. In the morning, there’s a small fish market right at the top end – and a larger farmer’s market on Sunday. Ferries leave from here to the islands and calanques. Otherwise, you can admire the numerous and varied watercraft, including a collection of historic boats along one side. If you don’t want to walk around the port, there’s a ferry that crosses from one side to the other for 50 cents. Two old forts – Fort Saint-Jean and Fort Saint-Nicolas – tower over the entrance to the port. We enjoyed the views down to the port from various vantage points. I think it’s certainly one of the most picturesque city waterfronts we’ve seen. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf4b380a9.jpeg Spot your yacht! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...deef91e8b.jpeg Ferry to cross the port https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a3c5c991.jpeg View down on the port from the hills of Le Panier https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3ef37b0f.jpeg Sailing out (more on that later) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf7fabdbd.jpeg Sailboat passing Fort Saint-Jean https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d67fcb0fb.jpeg Sunday morning farmer's market https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59baf4046.jpeg Cathedrale de la Major, behind Fort Saint-Jean https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5a99d02f.jpeg Looking down on the port from Palais du Pharo https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c113e104.jpeg At sunset https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96ed04ca4.jpeg Along the walls of Fort Saint-Jean Next up, exploring the history. |
I'm so glad to see this report. Marseille is a place I haven't been despite many trips to France & I've been thinking about the possibility. Thanks for this!
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Originally Posted by MmePerdu
(Post 17517318)
I'm so glad to see this report. Marseille is a place I haven't been despite many trips to France & I've been thinking about the possibility. Thanks for this!
History Marseille has a fascinating history. The city was a prominent port during the Greek civilization, and the prehistoric settlements in the area date much further back. We had intended to visit MuCEM – the Museum of the Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean – on our last day. Oops: We neglected to check which day it was closed and, yes, that was Tuesday. Not to worry. The Musee d'Histoire de la Ville de Marseille is well worthy of the time, with educational exhibits across three floors that span prehistory to the current day, including extensive coverage of the evolution of the port. Roman ruins in the yard outside were once part of the old port. Better yet, admission is free. Museum staff outnumbered the visitors. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26b2517a9.jpeg Ruins of a Cassis-stone paved road dating to the 2nd-4th C BC. The grooves make the pavement less slippery for horse carriages. There's an older pebbled road underneath. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3704cb65e.jpeg The fortifications were part of the entrance to the old city. They date to the 2nd C BC. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06f519d64.jpeg Excavated boats https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a78b685a.jpeg Greek era amphora ~500-600 years BC https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7da789396.jpeg Greek stele representing a woman in a chapel, ~500 BC https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71850a4ab.jpeg 3D exhibits show what the port looked like at various stages. In this one, Greek temples are visible in what is now Le Panier. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...621bbe8b9.jpeg A later rendering about 500 years old. The red arrow points to our apartment. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd45ebdf4.jpeg Giant floor map of modern Marseille. The red dot between us is the location of the museum, which was on the site of the ancient port. The green dot (I added) is where we stayed. |
Notre-Dame de la Garde
The basilica is set on the site of an ancient fort on a hilltop, towering about 500 feet over the city. Construction on the current basilica began in the 1850s, and it is known for its Neo-Byzantine mosaics. Our Uber driver from the airport had a number of suggestions for our time in the city. One of those was to walk up to the basilica and arrive a little before sunset. Once we got settled into our apartment, that’s exactly what we did. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd1db6a8e.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e30710cc9.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80b7a2516.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a66e2fa6b.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...470029421.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37b981623.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b4eeb667.jpeg On the walk back down |
Along for the ride, thanks for the TR. Yes, Marseille isn’t one of the popular tourist destinations, but it’s highly underrated IMO, thanks for sharing your experiences.
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Glad to read more about a city that interests me. Did your apartment building have an elevator?
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Very happy to see a positive report about much maligned Marseille. Usually all that one sees here is "I heard it was dangerous and I'm not interested."
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Originally Posted by kerouac
(Post 17517338)
Very happy to see a positive report about much maligned Marseille. Usually all that one sees here is "I heard it was dangerous and I'm not interested."
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Fabulous TR, ms_go! And it’s at the top of our list to visit! Your photos are beautiful - that light at sunset from the basilica is a big WOW!
We had a trip here planned for the fall of 2020 but we all know what happened then. You’ve reminded me that we really do want to make sure to visit Marseille before too long. |
Thank you! I loved Marseille but left with much unseen, so itks great to have your lovely photos and story to motivate me. Looks like a stellar choice of apartment hotel, too.
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Kudos for walking to Notre Dame de la Garde! It took the bus 20+ minutes. Gorgeous pictures, ms_go.
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Thanks, all! Now I think a better name for this report would have been, A Marvelous Week in Much-Maligned Marseille
SusanP: Our apartment was three floors up, and there was no lift. This helped us walk off all the good food we were eating (post on that to come later). That said, that apartment company does have 30 or 40 units in several buildings right in that block, and it is possible one of the other buildings may have a lift. Frioul Archipelago Normally, a day trip out to walk/hike in the Calanques (rocky, limestone coves that are mostly east of Marseille) would be right up our alley. But with the wind and temps struggling to reach 50, that didn't sound appealing. Instead, the Frioul Archipelago, a small group of four islands about a 20-minute boat ride from the port, offered a little taste of the coast in a more compact timeframe. Due to the wind, ferries were not able to dock at the most popular of the four islands, If (site of the Chateau d'If of "Count of Monte Cristo" fame), so we instead headed to the Port du Frioul. A couple hundred people live on the islands, and there are some ruins of old fortifications and other structures scattered around. We had limited time due to a Sunday lunch reservation but still enjoyed 1.5 hours of exploring. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e217ed4b8.jpeg We had a nice view of the archipelago on our flight into Marseille https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...776835450.jpeg A murmuration as we started our walk https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58ef3c167.jpeg We spent our time on the island of Pomègues - the walk from the port to the far end is about 45 minutes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c60889cde.jpeg You can see Marseille in the distance https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78406204c.jpeg Hopital Caroline was a quarantine station built on the island in the 1820s (now ruined) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12829a8a7.jpeg Steps from the waterfront to Hopital Caroline https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a8426cd4.jpeg View across the calanque to the ruined Hopital Caroline https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34424ef2b.jpeg There are a couple hundred people living on the island - but many, many more birds https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c48776ec2.jpeg Some of the ruins on the island https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cd6d2d03.jpeg More ruins https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...389f7b07e.jpeg Calanque de Morgiret https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1482b9f97.jpeg Port du Frioul https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db4b045cc.jpeg Chateau d'If from the boat on the ride back - no stopping there on this day due to high winds |
I just hope that you get a chance to return and visit the MuCEM, which I consider to be essential to any trip to Marseille, as well as a stroll around the "Panier" which is right next to it.
The "Panier" district of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com) |
Originally Posted by kerouac
(Post 17517461)
I just hope that you get a chance to return and visit the MuCEM, which I consider to be essential to any trip to Marseille, as well as a stroll around the "Panier" which is right next to it.
The "Panier" district of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com) |
And since you didn't go to the calanques, which is very hit-or-miss depending on the wind (The day before I went the trips were cancelled, and the day after I went, the trips were cancelled due to the wind.), here is my view of them:
The calanques of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com) |
Thank you for the elevator info.
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ms_go,
I love your report and your photos are gorgeous. I had always put Marseille on my "maybe but..." list but you've now convinced me! |
What a great set of photos and report of such an interesting city.
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Originally Posted by kerouac
(Post 17517468)
And since you didn't go to the calanques, which is very hit-or-miss depending on the wind (The day before I went the trips were cancelled, and the day after I went, the trips were cancelled due to the wind.), here is my view of them:
The calanques of Marseille | Any Port in a Storm (proboards.com)
Originally Posted by Maribel
(Post 17517490)
ms_go,
I love your report and your photos are gorgeous. I had always put Marseille on my "maybe but..." list but you've now convinced me! And thanks for following along, Adelaidean. It is a very interesting city, and I'm glad we were able to have the time there that we did. |
ms_go, it's wonderful to see your report and photos of Marseilles! Our oldest daughter lived in Provence for 10 years with her French husband and their children. In June they re-located to the Dallas area for their jobs, but while they were in France we visited on a fairly regular basis for 10 years. We made several daytrips to Marseilles (in fact our daughter bought her wedding dress in Marseilles), but we never stayed overnight. The last time we were there was a year ago in December to help our son-in-law with the children when our daughter was on a work trip. We spent a day in Marseilles and visited the Le Panier district for the first time which I thought was absolutely fascinating! I took tons and tons of photos of the gritty and unique street art.
We visited the calanques once in the summer many years ago. Last December we decided to visit Cassis again. None of the boats were running of course. It was a drizzly windy day and it was interesting to see Cassis without the tourist crowds. Looking forward to more of your report and photos! |
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