March 2024..Andalucia and Madrid
 

I am now working to pin down hotels and flights and trains to Cordoba, Vejer, and Madrid.

I will fly from MIA to Madrid. I would prefer to connect in Madrid for Cordoba but because that city has no airport, It appears that I would be best off flying into MAD and taking taxi to Atocha and then train to Cordoba.

RENFE always creates anxiety for me. I just looked and it seems as it there are trains loaded in March, but I did not follow the process all the way to the payment page. SO: When should I begin looking for a train from Madrid to Cordoba for early March? And assuming my flight from MIA will arrive in MAD early morning, how much time should I allow from the arrival of flight, immigration and all details, transfer by taxi to Atocha and board the train to Cordoba?

I cannot lift a heavy suitcase to an overhead shelf; do I need to bring some kind of cable lock should I have to leave a medium sized suitcase in a common baggage area within the train car?


CORDOBA..I am thinking about spending 4 nights in that city given that I will be tired after the overnight flight and the train trip. So that means only three full days. I do like to wander around a lot. the Mezquita is my principal sightseeing goal. And I will have four dinners in Cordoba....would love ideas for restaurants..Maribel my light is shining on you right now!!

CORDOBA HOTEL I am all but settled on the HOSPES, but want to firm this up to insure availability...any ideas for rooms I should ask for.
(I will be traveling alone)

CORDOBA to JEREZ AIRPORT where I will arrange a rental car; last time I rented from SIXT, via AutoEurope and was very pleased. VERY pleased! I need an automatic with a GPS installed and prefer an Audi or similar since I am well-versed in driving those cars. Please understand that I am a very timed driver and last March was the FIRST time in a long life of travel that I ever rented a car overseas alone. I did really well,although am not confident about driving more than 2 hours at one stretch.

My choices are: Hire a driver to get me from CORDOBA to JEREZ airport, OR to rent the car in CORDOBA and make an overnight stop between that city and my destination of VEJER DE LA FRONTERA.....MARIBEl has suggested a stop in Carmona.....good idea??? Nice town to wander around with some great food and lovely hotel??? (I've never been there; other ideas welcome). Parador in Carmona? I do love the paradores!

OR:

I can hire a driver to take me from CORDOBA to the airport in JEREZ where I can collect my car and drive onward to my hotel outside Vejer. This is a lot of time in a car.... Anyone have an idea which place--Cordoba or Jerez airport would be the best chance of hiring an automatic car with GPS????

.VEJER DE LA FRONTERA....Easy driving in and around the flatlands outside the "white" hill town of Vejer. (note that last year when I attempted to drive within the hill town, I was escorted out of town by the policia, after driving in the wrong direction on a narrow one-way street. Lots of fun being laughed and pointed at by all the kiddies pouring out of their school where I got confused! Lots of waving and laughing back and forth...will never forget that one..police led me all the way down the curvy roads along the hill and back to the flatter area where I should have remained in the first place!! But taxis are expensive and I had a car so how silly is it to hire a taxi for what appeared to be a simple drive??

AFTER about 12 days in VEJER small hotel (driving to Barbate and Zahara de los Atunes (thank you, Mike!!!) and maybe, maybe, doing the ferry trip to Tangiers for a day.... Maybe even day trip to Sanlucar for lunch, but apart from resrtaurants, all will be closed there mid day..must take a look at driving times on map...

Depart VEJER and return car in JEREZ AIRPORT and fly to MAD. Stay in Madrid about 5 (??) nights, hope to meet Maribel there!!!!!


MADRID hotel: MARIBEL, you know my last choice, in Salamanca/Chamberi area, which I loved and planned to book again. Perfect location close to Mercado de la Paz, and also (shame, eke) Zara and Cos...

The concierges, as lovely as they are, need to have more knowledge of local restaurants. (none had ever heard of those on my own list, which were not at all off the beaten path, but they were adept (with my urging) at phoning for the bookings that I had not been able to make on my own from the US..)

SACHA will be at the top of my list this time, and also want to try LA BIEN APARECIDA.

Probable return to LA MANDUCA DE AZAGRA,

Possible return to TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE. That is the style of restaurant that I like but do not know what this style of restaurant is called in Spain, or even in the US....just basic, prime ingredients with no fussiness....put prepared impeccably. I am sure that there are many other restaurants that might fit the bill, but which ones are they? And what do I call this style of cooking..is this "market to table??'

Price will never be terribly high since I am a single and do not have a huge appetite.....and do not drink more than, maximum, 2 glasses wine or 1 glass wine and one after dinner drink....

Others ones that sound tempting are LAKASA (read about this on this site) and LA CASA DEL ABUELA (the latter recommended to me very highly by a good friend and fellow food lover here in NYC...but I think this will be filled with foreign tourists..would their shrimp be from Spain, at least?). Shall I put this on my dinner list or just stop by for gammas al ajillo one day for lunch??? (I think the latter!!). I am open to all options...

Also, and I forgot...CASA DANI in MERCADO DE LA PAZ should be on the list....very difficult since breakfast in my hotel take me until 11am to finish (mias with grapes!!! And so much more, and SO MUCh chatting with staff!!). So how can I fit in tortilla at CASA DANI???

​​​​​​​(I only wish I were adept enough to pst photos of the breakfast banquet at my hotel in Salamanca..and I expect many other Madrid hotels offer breakfasts that are fairly similar.....). It is difficult for me to turn down although that leaves me very full until late afternoon!!! The hotel even offers tortilla but I really need to try CASA DANI which was shuttered last March when I was in the city......just reading this lets me know that I need more time in Madrid!!!



Although I love the seafood temple of RAFA, one of my Madrid favorites, I will be coming from the seafood heartland far to the south, and wonder if I am best to avoid the more central areas due to proximity to Semana Santa. (Although I MUST get to LA CATAPA, this trip or another one, very soon)..Would Retiro be impacted by Semana Santa crowds or need I just avoid the area around Plaza Mayor and Sol??? (TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE is close and can be cut from my list without tears!!). Waling there from Chamber/Salamanca hotel meant plowing through crowds last time on a Puente weekend, through church....cannot imagine how packed that will be pre-Semana Santa...but in the hunt for great food, we must be brave!!!

All the best to everyone, and muchisimas gracias!!




That's the general plan and would hope to hear any and all ideas about this.....what to see in Cordoba? Stop in Carmona?

Hi eks,
Don't look for trains yet from Madrid to Córdoba, but when the time approaches, look at both RENFE's AVE and the new, spiffy IRYO, the Frecciarossa Italian trains (iryo.eu).
They both run on that route, as well as the discount AVLO by Renfe. The latter are even nicer and have 4 classes of service and better catering. I allow 3 hours MINIMUM from touchdown to Atocha train departure, if all goes well.

We leave our large bags in the small compartment at the end of each carriage and just don´t worry about them. Most Madrid-Córdoba AVE trains are non-stop, others, the ALVIA may stop in Ciudad Real or Puertollano (on renfe.com click on "detalles del trajecto" to find out, so at those stops, my husband does get up to keep an eye on our bags, but it really hasn't been necessary. I try to choose the AVE or IRYO non-stop so as not to worry.
As soon as are gate appears on the monitor at Atocha, we dash to be one of the first in line (as does everyone else, lol), so as to board our first class compartment ASAP to stow those bags (first class=fewer seats=fewer bags, sometimes)

Córdoba sights: Mezquita/Cathedral by day and by night for the Soul of Córdoba sound and light show, the Alcázar gardens, the Palacio de Viana with its 12 interconnecting patios, the tiny synagogue, the Julio Romero Torres Art Museum (my favorite portrait artist and my avatar), the Archaeological Museum, the ruins of Medina Azahara outside of town (the tourist board runs a handy / easy bus), the small Sephardic Museum (Casa del Sefarad), the evening equestrian ballet at the Reales Caballerizas, etc. (I left some ideas on Laura's planning thread here---
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...aries-1717532/

Córdoba dining: La Ermita de la Candelaria (in a lovely mansion--King's sister just dined there), Almoraima, **el Bar de Paco Morales (or his Noor if you want Michelin starred degustation), Taberna San Miguel Casa el Pisto (charming, old style tavern), Terra Olea, Garum 2.0, Regadera on the river walk. (I left Ziggy some ideas on his HO Andalucía thread)

Córdoba hotel: Hospes, the suite, room 8, has original frescoes. Either that or one of the Deluxe rooms, but not a Dreamer room, as it's the entry level room.

Between Córdoba and Vejer: the logical stop would be Carmona and its Parador, which has an Alhambra-like central courtyard and is well located. Carmona has a collection of Roman ruins as well. But for picking up an automatic car with GPS your best bet would be at the Jerez airport. The Spain airports usually always have the most automatics, although as you know they are thin on the ground, especially at downtown locations.

No, no, no to the ferry from Tarifa to Tangier. It sometimes doesn't run during stormy weather and you may get a levante or poniente strong wind on the Costa de la Luz that will cancel the crossing. And Tangier, although improved, still isn't the best intro to Morocco. Instead, take the easy drive (or taxi) to Sanlúcar de Barrameda for those tortillitas de camarones at Casa Balbino on the square and walk down to the Bajo de Guía for lunch at Casa Bigote. Much nicer day....

I'll see you in Madrid!! And we'll go to Mercado de la Paz for a tortilla at Casa Dani.
Madrid dining:
Sacha, of course, La Bien Aparecida for a Sunday night, La Manduca de Azagra, Lakasa (market to table), the new **Harboure (French Basque, getting RAVE reviews), Villoldo (classic Castilian cuisine), Treze, the new Bascoat (although on the pricey side like La Tasquita or more), etc.

Look at the ratings on the Macarfi guide (macarfi.com, or download the app), look at the Repsol suns (repsol.com or download the app) and look at Maribona's alta cocina list here--
https://www.abc.es/guia-restaurantes/?s=&l=&tc=0&rp=195

La Casa del Abuelo for me is very much a tourist restaurant, but if you want its acclaimed gambas al ajillo, go in for a ración but not for a full lunch. I don't like their sweet wine, but that's just me.

You´ll be in Madrid mostly before the Maundy Thursday to Easter Sunday crowds, so Retiro dining shouldn't be impacted, unless some of the many fine neo tabernas-tascas ilustradas there decide to close for the entire week, but I seriously doubt it. There´s so much from which to choose in addition to Laredo: La Catapa, La Raquetista & Salino, Marcano, Castela & Castelados, La Montería & La Monte, El Talgo Bar, Taberna y Media, Arzábal Retiro, etc. Don't bother with Kulto, as you'll have plenty of almadraba in Barbate and Zahara.

If you stick to Salamanca, Chamberí, Retiro dining, you won't be impacted by the processions at all.

Hope this helps!

eks,
Meant to mention that you can see the Macarfi ratings for Madrid restaurants and an average price by ranking, highest first, here-
https://macarfi.com/es/mad/restaurantes?ob=rn

I'd love to hear the choice of hotel in Madrid, despite the issues with the concierge. I don't think I missed it?

FYI, there are no one way car rentals between Cordoba and Jerez. A transfer from Cordoba to Verjer is in the E450 range. Needless to say, Maribel is correct, a train is the way to go. Maribel, you are a true saint to many of us. Thank you!

Welch: Please understand, I had no issues with the concierges; It's that it often seemed as if I knew more about restaurants in the city than they did, as silly as that sounds!! The hotel is the Orfila.

Welch, I am curious about what you said about no one way car rentals between Cordoba and Jerez airport. Where did you look for this information? Because if I did rent a car in Cordoba, I would be dropping it off at Jerez airport. I took a look at Kemwell and there are many cars available for one way rental, although Ii did not take the time to check if they were automatic or not.

Maribel: What would be the best way for me to get from Cordoba to Jerez airport?? I can get a private transfer for 375e from TRANSFER GENERALIFE, which I think Robert recommended here a while back. (???).

The concierge issue is normal. The concierge staff (one of which is a member of Les Clefs d'Or) at the luxury class Mandarin Oriental Ritz had never heard of Taberna Marcano, where I sent friends. The chef, David Marcano, is quite well known, has appeared on Top Chef, trained with Arzak, and gourmet critics certainly are very aware of him. I often am frustrated by some of the concierge dining recommendations, even when they are members of a Relais Chateaux.

Yes, we've worked with Transfer Generalife, They've done private transfers for us. They're based in Granada, but deal with all of Andalucía, if they gave you a quote.

But call Kemwell and Auto Europe directly to see if you can do the one way rental. The problem may be lack of an automatic at the Cordoba location pick up. In my experience, the automatics are found primarily at Spain airport locations, where there is a far greater demand, as can be expected.

Eks,
we just did such a similar itinerary a few weeks back. Arrived in Madrid at approximately 6am. For once they had plenty of folks working at Immigration and we breezed thru and picked up our luggage in about 40 minutes. From the luggage pick up it’s a 3 minute walk to the airport train at T4 for a 35 minute ride to Atocha station. We had plenty of time to wander the station and outside neighborhood and then got on an 11am train to Cordoba, arriving in 2 hours. Piece of cake, and the train was not crowded and very comfortable. There is a luggage area in each car that does not require any lifting. We then took a cab to our apartment (10 min walk from the Mezquite) which took 10 min and cost 8 Euro. On return, similar to what you are planning we rented a car at the Cordoba Station (AutoEurope- we had a manual, but as soon as they knew we were from the states, they offered an automatic. We prefer manual.). We drove direct to Sanlucar (under 3 hours). After 4 nights in Sanlucar and 11 in Zahara we returned the car at the Jerez Airport. All in all, train, rental car pick up, the 3 hour drive, and car return was very painless and stress free.

mike,
It's great to know that they DO have automatics at the car rental station at Cordoba rail and that you had a successful rental through Auto Europe, which we (almost) always use.

We too, surprisingly, had no problem getting through immigration at Barajas in a timely manner when we came through on August 29. We were expecting the worst given past yearly experience, but they've vastly improved the organization of the immigration lines, having separate entrances to the hall for EU passport holders and for non-EU, which sped up the process. While T4 was very crowded with Spaniards returning home from August vacations, T4S was not bad at all when we arrived from DFW at 2:15 pm (unlike our experience last year in June). Although I can't promise that it will be the same when multiple US flights arriving at more or less the same time in the morning, which may be a different kettle of fish, but if Mike had no problem at 6 am, you should be fine in March.

Calling AutoEurope (always my preference but this routing is not available on their site) is the best option. Following through with online booking on Avis or Europcar, (both shown available on Kemwell), results in "no rental between these locations".

If you need an automatic make sure it's guaranteed. I'm sure you know an International Driver's Permit is required for driving in Spain.

I'm not familiar with The Orfila but was briefly interested in The Heritage last year (another Reals & Chateau property).
I've never found a wonderful concierge when it comes to dining information. My stay at The Four Seasons Madrid found a young, enthusiastic concierge staff. I do my own research and often want something off the radar. I have an allergy so use the concierge to make reservations and ensure this is understood.

My favorite hotel in Spain last year was the wonderful Casa Palacio Maria Louisa. Everyone, even the slightly nutty breakfast waiter/afternoon bartender was a treat! We loved every minute of the hotel and the city and would return in a heartbeat.

eks,
I also call Auto Europe/Kemwell, as I know you have done in the past (your recent trip to Puglia and that loooong car rental thread!! ), as booking online often does not give the proper results.

The Orfila is a true jewel box of a hotel and for me, in a more convenient location, closer to Plaza Colón than the Heritage, further north on Príncipe de Vergara in Salamanca and with even more attentive service, as it's been a premiere luxury property for much longer, way before it joined the Relais & Châteaux group.
Both dining is supervised by the Sandoval brothers of 2-Michelin starred Coque.
When we rented this summer just a few blocks away, we went up for drinks on their beautiful (but small) garden terrace and had very attentive service (as we did living across the street from the Palacio de Santo Mauro....same style).
We were also introduced to the Heritage right when it opened and when service needed to be polished, but it appears that it has improved in that area now.

I thought of you eks, as in Vejer they celebrated the "International Day of Lomo de Manteca" on Oct 15, when a thousand visitors, 68 bus loads in town and another 30 outside of town (said the local press) streamed into Vejer to sample this local gastronomic treat sold by 9 of the town's butcher shops who set up stands next to the Arab walls.
4,500 kilos of lomo de manteca were sold. In addition to the stands, the bars and restaurants also featured it on their menus. This event has been going on since 2015

The place we like to have this marinated loin of pork cooked and preserved in lard and made into a delicious sandwich, is at the VENTA PINTO outside of town in La Barca de Vejer, which made it famous. People order it and have it sent from all around Spain. On your next trip, you should try it there. The venta now has a lovely dining room in addition to the original roadside bar/café.
https://www.ventapinto.com

Well you know Venta Pinto is on my list!!

Have to agree with Welch that CASA PALACIO MARIA LUISA is one fantastic property! And I know you agree as well, Maribel! I wish I could stay there on this trip!!

“Also, and I forgot...CASA DANI in MERCADO DE LA PAZ should be on the list....very difficult since breakfast in my hotel take me until 11am to finish (mias with grapes!!! And so much more, and SO MUCh chatting with staff!!). So how can I fit in tortilla at CASA DANI??? ”
I returned from Madrid a few days ago. The lineups at Casa Dani were as long as ever.
And, thank you Maribel for recommending Icon Casona 1900. .I loved the location and my big room with the balcony.

hi danon,
I hope you had a great time in my new hometown!! I'm so glad you loved the location of the Icon Casona 1900---for me, it's ideal being so close to the Mercado de la Paz---and I see you snagged "our" room w/balcony. It's great!

eks,
After your breakfast at the Orfila, I'll pick you up between noon and 1, and we'll go to Casa Dani and just fight the crowds. Just save room for a half a pintxo. They're huge and easily shared.

thx,, Maribel… I wish Madrid were my new hometown !
It never disappoints.

ekscrunchy
We will be in Madrid, Jerez and Vejer this December in addition to the Costa Brava.

I made my Madrid reservations based on many of your and Maribel’s recommendations, among others. I have La Catapa, Taberna Laredo, Vinoteca García de la Navarra and hopefully Sacha (appears reservations are only allowed 2-3 weeks in advance). I’m enticed by a breakkie at Coquetto, the casual sister restaurant of Coque (thanks Maribel ) before departure. We’ve been to La Manduca de Azagra a couple of times and it has always delivered. Desde 1911 that’s getting a lot of “press” (they use the old duck press to crush a grilled fish carcass to extract the jus and so on) and Estimar Madrid are said to have great seafood, but are expensive and perhaps more fussy than I would like.

I may look into Lakasa instead of Vinoteca García de La Navarra, athough García de La Navarra’s carefully sourced produce from Navarra and fish and meat from select suppliers, has me all in. I have resigned to relegating Tasquita de Enfrente for another time.

mdn,
Sounds like a wonderful trip!
Yes, the top seafood temples these days in Madrid are Desde 1911, owned by Pescaderías Coruñesas, and Estimar by Rafa Zafra. They are expensive but not really stuffy.
Desde 1911 is where the OAD Top European Restaurants of 2023 held its awards ceremony.

Can you fit in both Vinoteca García de la Navarra AND Lakasa? They both source very carefully from select suppliers.
Lakasa's menu is very seasonal. César Martín works with some 160 different purveyors, depending on the season, from all over Spain and also from France (Bouchot mussels from Mont St Michel Brittany lobsters and Alsace cheeses selected by Bernard Anthony, for example). He also has an excellent wine list. Game dishes are a strong suit here. His partner and wife, Marina Launay, is French.

Venta Pinto!! 4 times in my 11 days in Zahara 2 weeks ago. All the locals rave about it and was recommended a few years back by friends from Madrid. . Best Lomo en Mentaca in the region. Simple roadside restaurant, great food and service, packed with the local workers at lunchtime always a good sign. On the road from Vejer to Barbate/Zahara.

Eks,
As mike says, it's a local, much loved institution, an ancient roadside stopping place, casa de postas, some 300 years old, and now one of the region's most famous ventas.

Notes from my Costa de la Luz dining guide
Venta Pinto— on the outskirts of Vejer on the CA-4200 highway, kilometer 7.7, in La Barca de Vejer, this popular roadside inn has transformed itself from a humble, traditional, roadside stopping place for a coffee or a hearty breakfast sandwich to a formal restaurant. The bar-cafetería is always packed with locals and tourists alike, who have heard about its famous sandwiches.
In the formal restaurant from. May until late June one can dine on the fresh local atún de almadraba, the prized blue fin tuna caught with a unique series of nets, created by the Phoenicians, along with the local Retinto beef from La Janda.
Here´s the restaurant menu---desserts are homemade.
Attachment 8339

In 2020 the family added a new outdoor patio plus a gourmet shop, El Colmado de Pinto, next door that offers its products, like its famous pork loin sandwich, lomo en manteca, since many crowded the bar just to buy this famous sandwich for take away (which they mail to fans all over Spain, including to Congress). The Diario de Cádiz calls it "the breakfast of champions".

This acclaimed pork loin sandwich, made from a 50-year old recipe, comes in several different sizes, and the bread comes from La Noria in Vejer.
The Colmado also stocks boxes of alfajores from Medina Sidonia, a blend of breadcrumbs, spices, nuts and honey, a popular holiday treat plus Herpac blue fin canned tuna, olive oils and the famous Payoyo cheeses from Grazalema.

Venta Pinto is now run by the daughter of the current owners, Cristina Pinto. It is in its fourth generation of family ownership. It’s also won the Premios Gurmé Cádiz popular vote for best venta several times and now has a Repsol Guide solete. Chef José Andrés, whose family vacations in Zahara, is a big fan.
One can reserve online. And it's open daily from breakfast until after the dinner hours.

On Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/ventapinto/

Last time I bought a cake art Venta Pinto, labeled only "bizcocho," no chocolate,and brought it back to NY where it was devoured, but it lasted a week or so so in prime condition!!