Marais open to any feedback for first timer
 

My hubby and I are celebrating our 29th anniversary and his 54th birthday with a first time trip to Paris March 5-12. We are staying at vrbo 28993-Marais (Thanx Fishee). I have read guidebooks and forums( Thanks a million to all Fodorites who take the time to write travel feedbacks) but we still would like to hear details from those of you who have stayed in the Marais district about areas/places/things/foods/markets you enjoyed very much and recommend on a personal basis. We are on a small budget (20-30euros/pp meals); like casual settings; age-mid50s.We will splurge a little with celebratory lunch at Jules Vernes on March 6th. Our very nice landlord made the reservation for us.

Be sure to post after you come back & let me know how the apartment worked out for you. We are of a similar age & will be staying there the first week in June. Can't wait!

I stayed there last February. I'll try to find my report.

Here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34758411

Definitely check out the Place des Vosges. It is a beautiful square in the Marais that is one of the most interesting in Paris. This square of buildings was originally constructed to house the nobles and royalty in a very early example of deluxe “urban planning”. In the center is a ring of formal cut trees, fountains and grass. Located in the inner northeast corner is the restaurant, Hugo’s. Not only is the food incredible, it is one of the best bargains in Paris.

Look at Rick Steves' Paris Guidebook and Day Trips Paris by Stein...(?) - gosh, just forgot his name but these books are in every bookstore. Anyhow, there are walking tours of the Marais along with restaurant recommendations. I have taken both of their walking tours. It's well worth taking one or both of these walks as you can better appreciate the area.

Here is a restaurant I really liked. Not sure if it's part of the Marais but very close - La Bastoche on rue St. Antoine near the Bastille metro. We really had an excellent meal and at a very good price but this was at lunch.

Try La Table des Gourmets at 14 rue des Lombards in the Marais. The restaurant is housed in an old chapel. Great prix fixe menu for €15-20/person.

This restaurant is charming.

Robert et Louise 64, Rue Vieille-du-temple, 01 42 78 55 89

It's a tiny family run restaurant with red gingham curtain and a brass handle on the door. You can't see in from outside, but when you get in there, oh what atmosphere.

Sturdy wooden tables and if you come without a reservation, you will probably end up at the large communal wooden table in back by the fireplace. This is where we sat, and ended up having more fun because as each new group came in, the owner came down and asked us all to 'move down, move down'. We had more fun and laughed that night because of the people we ate with!

The cook the meat on an open fire pit at the back (also a better view from the large table) There is a tiny kitchen where it looked like grandma was preparing the potatoes and salad. (Those potatoes were to die for!)

The meat is served on a wooden trencher and they bring a bowl of salad and potatoes that you share with who you are with.

Lots of nic nacs on the walls and a friendly black poodle to great you. The owner sits at his own table tallying the bills while the son and wife serve and take orders.

Very memorable and we will be sure to return on our next visit.

Excellent-thanx you all for the feedback. We'll try to report back after the trip (am not very good at writing) but I would like to try like the seasoned travelers we read in this great forum.I am excited about the reports of spring like weather and some flowers blooming already!!!

Be aware that Robert and Louise has a Turkish toilet.

One of the best street markets in Paris is at Place Bastille/ Richard Lenoir. market days, Thursdays and Sundays

Hi Cigalechanta-I enjoyed your February trip report-excellent.I am curious about the Turkish toilet-sound adventurous.
c2Paris-Robert et Louis: Sounds like a very fun one, I know we will go there!
Jody-We love markets!
ppm- Thanx.
Thanx all.

Turkish toilet, (for those who don't know) is the hole in the floor!

We liked the bistro Chez Janou, 2 rue Roger-Verlomme.

bkm

c2Paris-Robert et Louis: My apartment (for May) is on the same street, so I might try this restaurant. What kind of price range do they have? Do they have a variety of foods on their menu?

Thanks!

Monica ((F))

Erlinda, I'm thinking of trying Au Fils des Saisons, 6, r Fontaines du Temple in the 3rd, in April. I read a good review on chocolateandzucchini.com, although it may be over the top end of your budget.

Maybe you'll beat us to it and report back??? :D

Sorry, it's Au Fil des Saisons, not Au FilS des Saisons.

One of my favorite restaurants in Paris is a little creperie called Chez Imogene. It's not in the Marais, but I noticed that you were on a small budget, and a three course "formule" is only 15euros (cider not included). It's located in the up and coming Oberkampf neighborhood at 25, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, very close to metro Oberkampf. Call to make a reservation (day of, is fine 01 48 07 14 59 ) because it is a tiny restaurant. The entire staff speaks English.

bkm

we like Miss Manon, 87 rue st. antoine at rue de turenne. it's a boulangerie/patisserie which has great sandwiches and little quiches which you can eat there or take home. there is also a Paul (chain boulangerie) nearby which is good for breads and sandwiches. the marais is full of good cafes, so you shouldn't have a hard time eating on a budget - esp. with an apartment.

have fun!

One of the places I like and stopped by regularly is one of the Oldest wine bars.
La Tartine, named after the open-faces sandwiches they serve on Poilaine bread. There are two entrances. One on the Rue de Rivoli and the otherRue de Sicile. It's filled with locals who all seem to know eachother.

Guy listed a couple of very reasonable dining options in one of the folders in his apartment -- one of them might be the little Italian place in the Marche Les Enfants Rouge market around the corner (for lunch). It's a very small covered market so the seating area is easy to find. There was also a Morrocan food vendor which I didn't try.

Down the street from the apt is a cute little place that I think is called Chez Nenesse. This place is in your budget and is charming -- and it's right outside your door at the end of the block (towards the Seine). You may wish to make reservations since the place looked small but crowded with older people.

There's a pretty good chicken rotisserie down the street on Bretagne -- keep an eye out for when they're not overdone. I don't like white meat so I always get leg quarters which were pretty good. I wasn't thrilled with the roast potatoes so I'd recommend seeing what the locals are getting for their sides. There was usually a short line in the evenings as people got off work. The guy who works there doesn't speak English so it will take some hand gestures if he doesn't understand your French. He was even nice enough to suppress that classic grimace while helping me.

Don't hesitate to get falafels or a chicken/lamb shawerma (6 E) at least one night or afternoon in the Jewish quarter -- open very late through the night. These are huge so if you're not too hungry share one and get something else to try on the menu. There's no "atmosphere" in the conventional sense, but it's fun. These are stands but they are attached to restaurants where you can sit down inside. Rue du Rossiers is quite close to the apartment -- I'm guessing a 10 min walk.

One suggestion to consider is to avoid eating at the many mediocre brasseries you'll walk by every single night. The food usually isn't memorable and you'll easily pay 30 E/pp. I feel like it's better to eat very cheaply with good take out food and then you can double up your savings and eat at good restaurants where you'll be paying 60-70 E/pp. If you work it right, you won't go over your budget and will have enjoyed very good food throughout.

happy anniversary and bon voyage.

ErlindaB, I just returned from Paris yesterday evening and I did stay a week in the apartment on rue de Saintonge. It will probably be a couple of weeks before I get our trip report cobbled together, but I would like to reassure you that you will love the apartment and the immediate area.

A couple of things to add to fishee's comments:

- if you decide to eat a couple of meals in the apartment itself, there are two grocery stores on rue de Bretagne, as well as the small Marché des Enfants Rouge. There are also butchers, bakers, wine shops, green grocers, a fish store, and a cheese shop along that street. If you like oysters, pick up a dozen at the fish store; Guy has thoughtfully included an oyster knife in one of the kitchen drawers.

- I agree with Jody about the market on boulevard Richard-Lenoir; it's a wonderful experience and an easy walk from the apartment.

- your nearest Metro stop is Filles du Calvaire; it's a five minute walk from the apartment. Bear in mind that the ticket window isn't staffed at that station. No worries, though, as there is a handy machine that takes bills. You can feed a 20€ note into it to buy a carnet and it will give you back your change.

- rue de Saintonge is very quiet at night.

Enjoy your trip.

Anselm

welcome back Anselm. I'm sure your comments are very reassuring as several posters seem to be renting the same studio in coming months.

OK -- details of your trip, please?

I love the marais and stay there on every visit to Paris. We have rented 4 different apartments and soon will rent a 5th. Last visit we ate at Baracane, 48 rue des Tournelles in the 4th. We arrived late without a reservation and they welcomed us without any problems. We had a delicious meal and house wine. It a pleasant evening at a reasonable price. I do recommend it. I also recommend L'as du falafel on rue des Rosiers; delicious and cheap. The Victor Hugo Museum in the Place des Vosges is free and you get a great view of the Places des Vosges from the drawing room window. Just walking around and getting lost and seeing new places and always ending up on a familiar street is a great way to enjoy the marais.

You might want to print this out and plan a couple of Paris Walks...

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/pariswalking/

They are 10 euros per person and each lasts about 2 hours with a bi-lingual guide. IMO they are one of the best ways to begin to get aquainted with an area of Paris, its history, geography and what is there. There are two walks for the Marais, I and II and both are interesting. They do not do every walk every day so if any of them looks interesting you must plan ahead for the appropriate day and morning or afternoon. I usually bring a pad and pencil to jot down interesting places that I might want to return to, and if I see a nice cafe, I grab one of their cards as we pass by. The walk in Hemingway's Paris is also very good.

Pjk

can someone give me the address of this apt. on Rue Saintonge. Thanks.

Hi fishee,

I'm working away on the trip report and have a lot of photos to go edit. I'll try to post the report in the next couple of weeks.

Anselm

just teasing, anselm!

i'm not usually a trip report writer --i'm too wordy. welcome home, sure your family had a lovely time.

A million thanx to all-this thread is printed and in my carry on to reread during the flight. Thanx Fishee and Anselm for the familiar details and the reassurance since you both stayed in same apartment/area. Guy emailed- they will be going to Gran Canarie the week we are there, Ilana will be our host. Anselm, yes! we love oysters and mussells, and I really love fresh seafood markets (like back home,(Philippines). I wish your trip report was ready.
Peter- the apartment is vrbo 28993, 25 rue de Saintonge 75003. Fishee has a very nice trip report and pix of the apartment and the area.
Thanx all, we are packed, ready (I think), Delta flight leaves tomorrow at 6PM.
Willee anad Erlinda

Anselm, What was the weather like? 10 day forecast says showers/50s daily. Do we need cold and warm weather clothes?

Erlinda, Ilana met me when I arrived and showed me around the apartment. She is very, very kind. (By the way, when she buzzes you into the lobby, she has to call the elevator to her floor and then send it back down for you, so be patient, it will come down to the ground floor.)

The weather was all over the place. I was in Paris from the 7th of February to the 24th and then again on the evening of the 27th. There were days when it went down as low as 4 or 5 Celsius and one day when it went up to 18 Celsius. I'd say about 10 Celsius would be about the average and that is about 50F. I usually wore my woolen pea coat and a light cotton sweater. There were days when I wished I had brought a light jacket instead of the pea coat. Lots of rain for the first eight days and then mostly sun and broken cloud for the rest of it. I suspect you'll encounter even warmer weather.

I hope you and Willee have a wonderful trip. Safe travels.

Anselm

Oh, one other thing, in case you are concerned about it: I walked back to the apartment as late as 1 am and felt very comfortable in that neighbourhood.

AA

Anselm,You are very kind to share all these important info. Thank you.