Mucky, for some reason Fodors deleted my anniversary congratulations to you and Mrs. Muck. How odd. MK2, thanks again for your report.

Hi mvor,
Many thanks for your congratulations, I placed a nice long reply and it promptly disapeared.

We stayed at the Sieber Hotel which is a paupers 4* hotel outside the center of Prague around 10-15 mins walk. This was a conscious decision as I always like to have to walk to the center wherever I stay.
The reason for this is that you miss so much if you are shut up in the center of the tourist areas.
Anyway the Seiber was delightful, we were welcomed by almost all the staff, even thhe chef came out and shook our hands and welcomed us their hotel. It was very nice and very sincere.
Mrs Muck received a large beautiful single red rose a congratulatory hand written note from the Hotel manager and our junior suite was just perfect.
We had a fresh bowl of fruit every day.
The only complaint I had was that the dressing gowns were a trifle too hard.

Mrs Muck received and emerald bracelet from me, alas bought in UK and not Prague, we shopped for glass.

MK; the restaurants you ate in saw you coming, Prague is really a reasonable place to eat and even my taxi was 30% cheaper than yours.....lol

I am preparing a trip report as soon as possible.

Muck

I actually found tons of clothes to buy in Prague at the Flora Mall. I loaded up my suitcase with a 4 piece linen outfit (entire thing cost $40 USD), a KILLER black skirt for $6, and finally decided to splurge on a $30 silk skirt that I had my eye on. No, I don't wear Prada, but many people have commented on my stylish taste in clothing, and I was extremely happy with my purchases. Oh, forgot to metion the $4 beaded ring that I bought - a lady stopped me on the street in Philadelphia & begged me to tell her where I got it. My mom says I should load up my suitcase with them next time, and sell them for $15 over here!

As for restaurants, all the places mkingdom mentioned are ripoffs. Sure, I'll eat at Hot or Pravda if I'm in the mood. The best meal I had, though, was in a beer garden in the town Stara Boleslav. A HUGE plate of awesome Czech food, plus a dark beer, all for $5. If you go to a tourist place, yes they have a cover charge, which immediately makes it a rip off, because they also print "tip not included" on the slip. I realize that some people are not comfortable with going into a "local" restaurant if they don't speak the language, but the true bargains & good food are found in those very places.

It is misleading to state or assume that non-pop/classical music in Prague is of poor quality and overpriced because mkingdom went to a ripoff tourist concert.

They have some excellent performers, ensembles, conductors, soloists, and orchestras in the Czech Republic and Prague in particular, and wonderful venues. Prices are very reasonable and the quality superb. It helps to know a little about classical music, but if you went to concerts or recitals very often, you would have probably known that was a poor idea, but you definitely would have known that was very high-priced for Prague.

I've paid less than that to hear world-renowned groups in their major concert halls, like the Alban Berg Quartet at the Rudolfinum. I've heard other outsiding chamber music groups (one that record and get good reviews) in a museum for only about the equivalent of 10-15 euro.

I probably would not go out of my way for Gershwin in Prague, either, I think it's always good to go for the genre or repertoire an area is noted for.

I think the concert mkingdom went to is about the worst deal in Prague from what I've seen. Even the other tourist concerts in St Nicholas Church etc are cheaper than that, I believe, although I don't know the performers' quality. Because there are so many good musicians in Prague, as well as music students, I would expect it to be fairly good.

I agree the concert was a rip-off, however, the restaurants certainly weren't. They were the equivalent of dining in Conran or a similar upmarket chain (group that owns The Ivy/Wolsey/others) - they served contemporary cuisine with a Czech take - they weren't touristy con restaurants.

The food had finesse, and they had a fabulous selection of top notch cognacs.

amp322, did you get the beaded ring at the Flora Mall too? Sounds like a nice prezzie for some of my nieces and friends.

Muck, glad you and Mrs. Muck had a good time.

Maureen

No, the beaded rings are for sale at jewelry stores that sell beaded items. There are stores in Mala Strana and Old Town, as well as the Intercontinental Hotel gift shop, which prices them a little higher, at $5. The beaded necklaces with blown glass pendants are really striking, as well. I got one for $15 in Cesky Krumlov, and everyone who sees it compliments me on it.

About those restaurants, I still think that the ones targeted at tourists are way out of line. I mean, it's the same in any city around the world. In New York, you pay $10 for a slice of cheesecake at Lindy's. My point is that in a place like the Czech Republic, if you DON'T go to a tourist joint, you can pay $3 for an entree, instead of $15. That is not possible in many places around the world. Thus, the true value of a place like Prague or Bratislava, etc,etc, is still being able to find a place to eat dinner for under $10, and leave with a satisfied & full tummy. Not all of us shop at Gucci & eat at trendy places all the time. That is how I can afford to spend 5 weeks in Europe, vs other people's 1 week of whirlwind spending in 5 star hotels & restaurants. I ate at Hot once this summer. The rest of the time, it was little local joints. Anyway, that's my point, so do whatever you want, but realize that you don't have to pay a cover charge in all restaurants. You just have to know where to go/not to go.

"1 week of whirlwind spending in 5 star hotels & restaurants"

I'm fortunate enough to be able to afford more than just the one week.

As for the local places, I love such bars/restaurants in Spain/Italy as they have this Mediterranean charm and quite simply exude the warmth and sunny climate of this region. Their Eastern counterparts lack this wealth of warmth, and hospitality. I'd still recommend people to eat at the best restaurants in Prague, as similar dining experiences in London/Paris/etcetera will be well over double the price. Thus it is cost effective to dine there.

Thank you for your comments.

amp322, thanks!

The place with a castle on a hill was probably Karlstejn.

quote:
>>>>
There are very few traditional restaurants serving local dishes - those that advertise as ?traditional Czech food? look like tourist traps, beware.

<<<<

this is not true...

prague is filled with cafes serving traditional dishes. however, they aren't in Wencelas square and they aren't "upmarket".

sorry but hot isn't so hot. i can think of a hundred things i'd rather than sit in an outdoor cafe in Wencelas square (of all places!) with only a barrier of cheesy sticks with styrofoam balls as a barrier to protect me from the british stag party passers-by. i'll pass, thank you.

The red sticks with polystyrene spheres give the place plenty of movement and fluidity, the seats are set against the far wall for diners, the ones near the street are for drinks only.

I think mkingdom confused Karlovy Vary with Prague Castle, which is on a hill. Also, the palace next to St. Vitus has no furniture. Karlstein Castle has furniture, paintings, glassware, armour, and other items on display. Obviously, she is not talking about Karlstein Castle in her above report.

Vaclav Namenski (Wens. Square) is probably the most touristy part of Prague. I never would go there for a meal, unless I wanted Mickey D's.

I have to agree with the above posters - Vaclavak or Vaclavske Namesti is one of my least favourite places today in Prague. There are so many other districts that are less tainted by mass commercialism. Having just returned from my fourth visit to Prague, the first in '86 whilst it was still communist, the square is no longer what it used to be. The visible presence of police both undercover and uniformed made me feel uncomfortable.

I thought that too thingorjus, however, why take a mini bus trip to Prague Castle, as you know its only a short walk from the center of Prague.
Or is mk2 lazy.
;-)
Muck

It was Karlstein castle - an hour's or so journey away - saying it has painting and furniture is like calling Victoria Beckham a singer - the bits there were few and far between, nothing of any quality, firewood.

Hi MK2,
So it was Karlsejn castle.
Firewood and no pictures.Did you have your eyes closed?
Entirely unique is the original decoration of wall paintings dating back to the 14th century, collection of 129 panel paintings by Master Theodoric in the Chapel of the Holy Cross (the world largest if its kind), the largest portrait gallery of Czech rulers in the country, exhibited replica of St. Wenceslas crown - the coronation crown of the Czech Kings as well as the unique castle well.

Wow did you really go there?
Tell me about the slippers in the castle?


Muck

"replica of St. Wenceslas crown"

By which you mean an absolutely hideous brassy coloured, highly polished piece of rubbish that is found in theatrical prop shops?

The portraits leave me totally cold, perhaps it's because I have no interest in Czech history, and the guide's juvenile sense of humour in describing a door leading from the king's bedroom to a secret staircase and up to the queen's.

It was only cheap - 30GBP for two, but it wasn't fascinating, and being crammed into a minibus really isn't me.

I paid nothing like that amount, it seems they saw you coming again.

Tell me about the slippers in the castle !!!!!

My dear, if you're implying I wasnt there...

Are the slippers the things in the cabinet at the end of the tour? Along with the little crowns placed on statues, all of which were perfectly hideous (despite their being original).