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Loving Northern Portugal – and living to report about it
A few years back, we planned a 10-night trip to Northern Portugal. We did our research and amassed a ton of notes about sites, visiting hours, hikes and walks, driving routes, wine and port, food and restaurants, you name it. We were well-prepared for our departure on March 28, 2020. Well, you don’t have to guess how that turned out!
Not wanting all that work to go to waste, we kept the idea on the back burner as travel resumed. A few months ago, we had to pivot some of our plans – and this trip to Northern Portugal seemed to fit right into a hole in our schedule. We rebooked essentially the same trip, but switched up the order of destinations and revisited our accommodation selections. Our new itinerary: · Porto, 4 nights · Braga, 3 nights · Douro Valley, 3 nights (an evening flight out of Porto meant we had all day to get to the airport after checking out) · Zurich airport hotel, 1 night (positioning for a morning flight home) We knew this would be a little early in the season – good for crowds but maybe not so much for the weather. As hardy Midwesterners, we’re used to a little weather and were willing to take the risk. And the weather, indeed, turned out to be a mixed bag. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a2424b13.jpeg The good - please excuse the seagull photobomb https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1693a72b.jpeg The bad - yes, it looks great, but that's snow on the top of the hills in the distance, and that was big news in the area https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f9cebf5c4.jpg The ugly Weather aside, this short trip had it all: Historic and UNESCO sites. Great food, wine and port. Lovely views. And one very scary incident involving moving vehicles. |
February 27: The night before
We were packed and ready and winding down on work in anticipation of a 2:30 pm flight to Frankfurt the next day. As we were fixing dinner, my phone started lighting up with notifications from United Airlines. It seems the union for Lufthansa ground workers across Germany had just announced a strike for the next few days. This has been an ongoing dispute, and a strike the previous week had resulted in about 1,000 flight cancellations. No one really knew what would happen the next day, but United was offering the chance to change flights pending availability. Spending part of our trip in Frankfurt rather than Portugal – in February – was not especially appealing. I did some quick research as I wolfed down dinner and saw that a flight to Zurich (connecting to SWISS rather than Lufthansa) was not full and maybe an option. Ten minutes on the phone with United, and that was a done deal. It was a better itinerary (2.5-hour connection vs. 4-hour connection), arrived in Porto just 30 minutes later, and preserved our Polaris upgrades across the Atlantic. Ultimately, our original flights did go as planned, but we didn’t have to spend hours worrying about it. |
Porto: February 29 – March 3 (four nights)
The connection in Zurich was easy. We even had time for showers at the SWISS Senator Lounge, so we arrived somewhat refreshed and ready to hit the ground for a full half day in Porto. Our home for four nights was a fantastic rooftop apartment overlooking Parque des Virtudes and the river beyond it. As luck would have it, no one occupied the apartment the previous night, so were able to have early access. The very helpful proprietor met us, showed us around, and left us with lots of recommendations – for our time and appetites. If only the weather had been conducive for relaxing on that wonderful terrace! Virtudes Terrace https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a8772f24.jpeg If only we could have enjoyed this terrace every day during our stay! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e216a6b51.jpeg On nice evenings (of which there was only one during our stay in Porto) people gather in the park below to watch the sunset |
Along for the ride!
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Thanks, Melnq8! It might be a bit of a slow ride depending on how work goes this week, but I'll try to get to the good parts.
Our arrival day was one of the best weather days of the trip. We knew that might be the case, so we were motivated to get out and walk - and we did, 12K steps. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1690c91db.jpeg We loved the architecture around Porto, including the building in which we were staying - the yellow one. Our apartment was on the very top floor. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c751f7de.jpeg Porto is quite hilly, so chances are you'll be going up and down some stairs. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38a4fb9c9.jpeg We made a beeline for the riverfront. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8b5afe45.jpeg You can walk across the Dom Luis I Bridge on either the bottom level or the top level. We did both - the bottom level on our first day and the top level on the second, in the rain. I'm not good with heights, and the top level was not for me! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8ad916b0.jpeg The city on the other side of the river, Vila Nova de Gaia, has a classic view of Porto. It's also home to tasting rooms for a lot of wine and port houses. Rabelo boats (historic boats used to transport wine/port barrels) line the Gaia side of the river. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ff5bbd48.jpeg We actually got to sit outside for a drink on the river bank (it was maybe 55 degrees F). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb22dfa1a.jpeg Our neighborhood was very close to the Clerigos church and tower (we'd visit on another day). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ed57842f.jpeg We wanted dinner on the first night to be close by. Porta 4 is a tiny place that seats, I think, 12 people. One server and one chef. It hit the spot as jet lag started to set in, including this delicious gnocchi dish. Next up: digging into the food and culture of Porto with Culinary Backstreets. |
Great timing since we are heading there soon.
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Really enjoying your report and photos. We have been to Lisbon but not Porto. Hope to see more of Portugal some day and will definitely include Porto.
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Every Portugal post wants me to return. Looking forward to more.
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Looking forward to more, ms_go. So glad you were able finally to make this northern Portugal trip happen! You do have a special talent for finding inviting airbnbs.
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Great report so far! I am along for the report and pictures!
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Thank you all: cafegoddess, KarenWoo, willowjane, maitaitom (we, of course, read your report before leaving), and Maribel (your recommendation of Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros was a winner – more on that later).
I should note that we’ve been to Portugal once before – a brief surprise birthday trip to Lisbon in 2013: Sunshine, Ginjinha and an Angry Peacock. Some here may remember the peacock story from the lounge. FYI, some of the links in that report may no longer work, including the one to our Bairro Alto apartment, which is no longer available. Back to the current trip. It rained all night, but we awoke to our first full day with a rainbow and some dry weather – at least for a few hours. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2698465d4.jpeg The only major thing we pre-planned for this trip was a tour with Culinary Backstreets. We were attracted to this particular tour because it wasn’t just about tasting food; it was about the stories behind the food. This organization started in Istanbul and has grown to other cities over the past decade-plus. The groups are small – max of seven people. We were very lucky to be the only people on our tour. It was just the two of us and Marta, our guide. She was born and raised in Porto, has lived and studied in other countries in Europe, and has a Ph.D. in linguistics. She’s also an excellent storyteller. We spent six hours, mostly in the Bolhaõ and Bomfim neighborhoods, just outside the oldest part of the city, talking about food, history, culture, architecture, economics, politics, and more. We very much enjoyed this experience and have already signed up for the Culinary Backstreets market tour in Palermo later this year. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0a41a457.jpeg Our tour started at Confeitaria Império for coffee and “second breakfast.” https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fa0e14ff.jpeg We then moved a few doors down to A Favorita do Bolhão, a traditional grocery store that opened in 1934 and has been in the same family since – and probably has not changed much. Some of those bottles of port on the top rows may be about as old as the store. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1d513f97.jpeg Next up was the Mercado do Bolhaõ, which reopened in 2022 after a long renovation. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38d5a9495.jpeg Some of the family fish vendors have been operating here for decades. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49e3b82eb.jpeg Serra da Estrela - sheep’s cheese. In the north, they cut off the top of the casing and use a spoon. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd99cd25e.jpeg We learned that most restaurants get their kale for the soup at the market, where the vendors have industrial slicing machines. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef3175246.jpeg Some of the fabulous architecture in Bolhão https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f633d652f.jpeg Along the way, we passed by some notable sites, such as the Church of Saint Ildefonso. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bebed719d.jpeg Porto is known for its famous Francesinha sandwich, an egg/cheese/meat affair that made our cholesterol levels go up just thinking about. We never did try it, but we did share a Cachorrinho sandwich, AKA “little hotdog.” I don’t feel like we missed out. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27734ea61.jpeg “Home” to the Cachorrinho is Gazela, which has maybe 10 stools at the counter – and a long line out the door if you don’t get there at opening time. Enjoy your sandwich with a super cold Super Bock. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...001966d45.jpeg Next, a stop in a true Porto FC sports bar for some traditional snacks, including salpicão with brown bread. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...454d8b0cb.jpeg We did a little walking to digest in between all the food so far and a traditional lunch, which was coming next. This included a vantage point over the river that’s a little beyond the typical tourist zone. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...666b2d17e.jpeg A walk through Jardim Marques de Oliveira, where the trees and flowers were starting to bloom. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb61e05d6.jpeg Lunch was at Casa Padrão. It included multiple dishes – starting with a traditional caldo verde (soup), then some fried sardines (you eat the whole thing). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff27b8e21.jpeg Alheira, a Portuguese sausage made with garlic and filler rather than pork - originating hundreds of years ago in the Jewish communities. BBC article: The Unlikely Sausage that Saved Lives https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db571f67a.jpeg Finally, a walk through Bomfim – once one of the more affluent neighborhoods – to a coffee house run by a Brazilian musician - Dona Mira Cafe. This, by the way, is not the cafe (I didn't take any photos there but the cakes are excellent). |
Our stomachs and minds were full as we parted ways with Marta somewhere in Bomfim. We headed toward the remaining portion of the old city walls near the river.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe1986622.jpeg Along the old city walls Marta advised that if we visited any church in Porto, it should be the Igreja de Santa Clara.We had a bit of a hard time finding the discreet entrance, through an archway in a parking lot. Dating to the early 1400s, the church has one of the largest examples of gilded woodcarving in Portugal. It’s a national monument. It closed in 2016 for a lengthy restoration due to termite damage and reopened in 2021. It is not the largest church we’d see on this trip – but, oh my, the amount of gold and detail in one space! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efc38ea2d.jpeg The entrance to Igreja de Santa Clara is not especially obvious. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfcb44d62.jpeg Once inside...the gold! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3ca37b7f.jpeg A little closer view. We found faces interesting. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02e5088c7.jpeg Close up on the restoration detail. The church is close to the upper level of the Dom Luis I Bridge, so afterwards we took a walk across. I have issues with heights, and this was not much to my liking. I pretty much fixed my view on the other side and kept going. Once we got to the other side, the rain and wind picked up, so getting back across was even less enjoyable. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32b3f40c7.jpeg If you'd like to see what the view from the upper level of the bridge is like, here it is. Photo credit to mr_go, because I wasn't about to look over the edge. After a big food day, dinner was not on the agenda. We found a nice, low-key wine bar near our apartment, called Prova. The staff gave us a bit of a primer on port, including an introduction to white port. Who knew? We came back here on one other evening while in Porto. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a4372c45.jpeg Small dinner snack of tuna/capers on toast. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76e7d9049.jpeg Our intro to port tasting. |
For me this is a wonderful intro to Porto. Your words and text are sublime. I really feel like I'm there, whether it is looking up at those crumbling steps or reading about the food and the woodcarving in the church.
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I don't know much about Portuguese art history but I too was fascinated by all the little faces on the church decorations. I once had the privilege of seeing the painting the Burial of Count Orgaz in Toledo with a similar constellation of faces, and the guide told us that if it looked like it was the same face repeated many times, it was; because models were hard to come by (no-one had time to sit there unpaid, because an artist sure didn't have that money), artists used to use mental patients as models, and often they just repeated the same face. But there seems to be a bit more variation in your faces. Maybe this was different for cherubs / children (which might have been in more supply?????)?
Lavandula |
Thanks, shelemm. In this case, the subject matter makes this very easy!
Lavendula - agree about those faces. There is definitely variation, and this was only one panel. We didn't have a guide or anyone to ask, so not sure how these figures came to be. We woke up to real rain (see photo above, “the ugly”), so we took our time with breakfast and getting ready. At one point, it seemed the rain was dissipating and the sky was getting lighter. We donned our rain gear, took the elevator down seven floors and walked out of the building, headed for the Palacio da Bolsa (19th Century center of commerce) about 10 minutes away. We got maybe 200 feet before the rain blew up again, and we were drenched. Back to the apartment. About 30 minutes later, we tried again. At this point, it was just “spitting” rain. We got to the Bolsa and found a line wrapped around the building. To see the inside, you have to take the 30-minute tour. But there isn’t really a way to buy tickets online. So, we joined the line and eventually arrived at the sole ticket seller 40 minutes later (remember, this isn’t even high tourism season yet). There are tours in Portuguese, English, French, and Spanish. The next English tour was about 2 hours later. We opted for even later in the day, around 4:40 pm. The Italian women who spent 40 minutes in line in front of us bailed without buying tickets at all once they got to the head of the line. I guess nothing suited them. There must be a better way. With tickets in hand for later in the day, we headed for the Se de Porto (cathedral). Apple Maps said it was only about a third of a mile – uphill I should note. But when the rain hit again, we had to do something. It happened to be about 12:30. The first restaurant we passed had no space, but we were welcomed into the one across the street, Porto A Noite, with a big smile. We enjoyed some warm caldo verde and salads. Cash only – mr_go had to go find the ATM around the corner before we could leave. Finally, the skies began to clear and we could get on with our day. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5605ecae4.jpeg Warm caldo verde on a cold, rainy day https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...818ace68c.jpeg The Camino Portugues runs from north Porto to Santiago in Spain. We saw markers for it in multiple stops on our trip, including around Porto. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eab858b70.jpeg The Sé do Porto stands at a high point in the city. The structure dates to the 11th Century and has seen various modifications over time. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5577b312.jpeg The inner courtyard and cloister is just as interesting as the interior. You can explore it on both levels. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eec100cb3.jpeg Getting up close with the painted tile in the courtyard. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18dd859a6.jpeg View over the city from one of the towers. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6095decf9.jpeg Cloister of the cathedral https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34029d3dd.jpeg After the cathedral, we walked toward the train station, Sao Bento - noted for the tile work in the front lobby. What was cropped from this photo is some of the massive amount of construction in central Porto in conjunction with building a new metro line (you can see a large backhoe). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af4b90238.jpeg Sao Bento train station https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc277d8e4.jpeg One small section of the art https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c93a16c40.jpeg You can tell this is a train station! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cc5e5919.jpeg The historic Imperial Cafe is now a McDonald's - which has preserved the Art Deco murals and other details. We visited for the structure, not the food, as I'm sure many do. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5c9a1b17.jpeg Porto's town hall (do a 180-degree turn, and it's all construction) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0455fe901.jpeg Back at the Palacio da Bolsa for our 4:40 pm tour https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab467cb3c.jpeg Close up detail in one of the Bolsa chambers https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23ea270a5.jpeg This was Gustave Eiffel's office, with some of its furnishings. He designed one of the iron bridges in Porto, but not the famous Dom Luis I bridge. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99b14e4aa.jpeg The finale of the Bolsa tour is in the elaborate drawing room with Arabic detail. It is used today for welcoming dignitaries from around the world. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b35fa8aad.jpeg The historic trams run along the waterfront, out to the beach (we didn't ride). The Porto suburb of Matosinhos is known for restaurants that serve fresh grilled fish. There are many. Our Airbnb host left some recommendations, and I had others from reading. We went with one that was easy to book online the day before – Taberna Lusitana. We used Uber to get there and back (about a 15-minute drive each way). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...334fa2174.jpeg More fried sardines - these were out of this world! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d2bdd5b1.jpeg Our dinner, selected from the day's catch and grilled |
Your photos and commentary are wonderful! Love the street scenes, the food, the churches, the tiles. We love fish so I know we would enjoy visiting Matosinhos.
After visiting Lisbon and Porto, do you have a preference for one city over the other? |
Yeah, that massive construction work was underway when we visited a few years ago. Looks like they're making progress.
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17545501)
After visiting Lisbon and Porto, do you have a preference for one city over the other?
Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17545641)
Yeah, that massive construction work was underway when we visited a few years ago. Looks like they're making progress.
Our last full day in Porto was a Sunday. Sunday lunch is a big thing. We had reservations just around the corner at Taberna Santo Antonio. This came highly recommended by our Airbnb proprietor. Culinary Backstreets also has a blog post about this popular neighborhood restaurant. https://culinarybackstreets.com/citi...nto-antonio-2/ But first, we had a few more sites to see. One of Porto’s most noted sites is the Clérigos church and tower, which just happened to be about five minutes uphill from our apartment. The Baroque church is young compared to many, finished around 1750. The tower is the tallest in Portugal, and you can see it from all over the city. I’ve mentioned my issues with heights. I also don’t like steep, narrow towers with two-way traffic – especially coming down such towers. Taking one look at this tower from the outside, I couldn’t see how it would be anything other than steep and narrow, with two-way traffic. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb64703e0.jpeg Still feeling a little off from a migraine (first in 5-6 years) the day before, I decided to let mr_go climb this by himself while I explored the exhibits in the church. Good decision. About 10 minutes later, I get a text message: “Yeah, this is a ***** nightmare.” Turns out a large, adolescent-aged school group was in the tower at the same time. He declared the view nice enough, but the “juice wasn’t worth the squeeze.” https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78b42cb2d.jpeg View from the tower https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3288483b.jpeg Meanwhile, inside the church Livraria Lello is a couple blocks from the church. We love a good bookstore – but not standing in line to go inside. Yes, you can reserve your entrance time online. Even so, there were several hundred people outside waiting to get in. Hard pass. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0b46606b.jpeg A few blocks further are the twin Baroque churches, Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelitas – the former known for the tiles on one side. Connecting the two churches is the 1.5-meter-wide Casa Escondida (1760s). The story has it that the house prevents the two churches from sharing a wall to so as to ensure separation of the nuns of Carmelitas and the monks of Carmo. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34d29eb99.jpeg Great Art Deco architecture https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...193bab235.jpeg Fonte dos Leões https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1d0f352c.jpeg Tiled facade of Igreja do Carmo https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08bcb8334.jpeg Look closely - the narrow building between the two churches is Casa Escondida https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...473a5f695.jpeg Inside Igreja dos Carmelitas https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7372d73da.jpeg Jolly fellows in Jardim da Cordoaria The Jardins do Palacio de Cristal wraps around the Super Bock Arena. The gardens range from landscaped to wooded, with a few fountains and grottoes, and even some roaming birds – roosters and chickens, ducks, and peacocks (yes, we were especially wary of the peacocks). There are nice viewpoints of Porto, Gaia and the river. It was a lovely place to stroll on a Sunday, with local families out enjoying the fleeting bit of sun. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa9050226.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...331c1d8f6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ed996ced.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4b073cb1.jpeg |
The rest of our time in Porto...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f62edcdd4.jpeg There's a great view over Porto from Miradouro da Vitória https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c67f31d23.jpeg Sunday lunch was at Taberna Santo Antonio, on our neighborhood corner (it's a little livelier than this when open) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc461393c.jpeg One of the classic Portuguese dishes of the north is breaded, baked bacalhau (salt cod). We had it several times. Check out the SIX potatoes for scale. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16644b8e1.jpeg Mr_go's meal, veal stew. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d231de78f.jpeg It looks like your average chocolate mousse, but apparently it is award-winning - and is, indeed, excellent. Perhaps the second most decadent thing we tasted on this trip (stay tuned). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3cdfff0d.jpeg After lunch, we took a walk back across the bridge to Gaia. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0fabf9367.jpeg There are numerous port/wine houses in Gaia that offer tastings. The big ones are on the river front, but there are smaller shops a block or two off of it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd546ccee.jpeg We stopped for a tasting at Quevedo. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94dd42aef.jpeg In Gaia. Tomorrow, we'll pick up a car and hit the road. |
We were in Portugal years ago when we visited the Bolsa. We were the only visitors and our Portuguese guide commented we must be French as we have blue eyes. She also said I was very tall(5’5”!!)
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'Brigado, very Nice report Ms Go! Gotta love Mr Go's “juice wasn’t worth the squeeze” text. LOL!
So glad that your earlier research did not go to waste--good for you guys to have been so persistent. My fave fotos of yours so far are: the rabbit-cum-corner, the dual porto glasses and the tile depicting the peasant woman looking back at the viewer. But I am confused. Did you not allude to a 'scary near-accident' or somesuch? Did I somehow miss it or are you yet to address that? If ever you two might be interested in buying local music CDs as mementos, the following two musical acts are worthy. Lisbon's 'Dead Combo' play an appealing sort of noir, spaghetti-western guitar instrumentals (any title would do), while the late, great 'Madredeus' were quite different. The latter featured exquisite folk music, a crack back-up band with a superstar female vocalist. Their Greatest hits/Best Of is soooo atmospheric. Like standing outside a Portuguese church somewhere, surrounded by moody morning mist. I am done. the Gos TR |
Originally Posted by HappyTrvlr
(Post 17545703)
We were in Portugal years ago when we visited the Bolsa. We were the only visitors and our Portuguese guide commented we must be French as we have blue eyes. She also said I was very tall(5’5”!!)
Originally Posted by zebec
(Post 17545967)
'Brigado, very Nice report Ms Go! Gotta love Mr Go's “juice wasn’t worth the squeeze” text. LOL!
So glad that your earlier research did not go to waste--good for you guys to have been so persistent. My fave fotos of yours so far are: the rabbit-cum-corner, the dual porto glasses and the tile depicting the peasant woman looking back at the viewer. But I am confused. Did you not allude to a 'scary near-accident' or somesuch? Did I somehow miss it or are you yet to address that? If ever you two might be interested in buying local music CDs as mementos, the following two musical acts are worthy. Lisbon's 'Dead Combo' play an appealing sort of noir, spaghetti-western guitar instrumentals (any title would do), while the late, great 'Madredeus' were quite different. The latter featured exquisite folk music, a crack back-up band with a superstar female vocalist. Their Greatest hits/Best Of is soooo atmospheric. Like standing outside a Portuguese church somewhere, surrounded by moody morning mist. I am done. the Gos TR On to Braga For the middle portion of our trip, we wanted a base to visit Braga and Guimaraes, and maybe a bit further afield in the Minho region. We could have flipped a coin as to which city to stay in – but we had picked Braga back in 2020, so we decided to stick with that. Braga is only about an hour from Porto, and we had three hours between picking up a car at the Porto airport and check-in time at our Braga apartment. We decided to check out the town of Barcelos, which dates to prehistoric times and still has a medieval core. It’s a center for handicrafts, and there’s a big weekly fair on Thursdays (we visited on a Monday). It was a nice place to stretch our legs for a bit. We had lunch in a small place where we ordered the daily lunch special and weren’t sure what we’d get (it turned out to be a pasta and meat dish). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bc679035.jpeg The Barcelos Rooster is a prominent symbol, both for the city and Portugal. Legend has it the rooster saved the life of a traveler convicted of theft by crowing his innocence. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81806a3d4.jpeg Barcelos town hall - and lots of birds https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1785629e6.jpeg Torre da Porta Nova is one of the last remains of the old city wall https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f37115506.jpeg Templo do Senhor Bom Jesus da Cruz https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25547dbbb.jpeg Inside the church https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c36052e8.jpeg There's a big market here on Thursdays, but it was very quiet on Monday https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45bbb64c4.jpeg Art somewhere on the walls https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc1787714.jpeg The Barcelos Earl’s Palace was built in the early 1400s. It fell into disrepair over the ensuing centuries, but the ruins are now a national monument. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6859554a7.jpeg Remains from the Earl's palace https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2e9b13ff.jpeg Another rooster - they're all over town |
Braga has a long history that dates to the Roman era – and earlier. It has a mostly pedestrianized city center with a medieval core, including important religious and cultural sites. It’s also home to several universities, so there’s a young, vibrant feel. As we discovered, the food scene isn’t bad, either (Marta had told us we’d enjoy the food in the Minho region). We didn’t put too much advance work into choosing restaurants, but using The Fork and some other resources, we had three very good dinners during our stay.
Our accommodation for three nights was an apartment on the wide, landscaped Avenida da Liberdade – modern and spacious, with a washer/dryer (very helpful), but in an older, historic building. The manager has arranged parking with several public parking facilities a few blocks away for 10 Euro per day. Barely over $100/day. Se Apartamentos—Avenida Residence That beautiful blue sky we had in Barcelos turned to rain once we were settling into Braga – but then cleared by the time we went out for dinner. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f0cb6446.jpeg View off the back terrace of our apartment of Basilica dos Congregados https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff7a4a843.jpeg Our apartment is on the nicely landscaped Avenida da Liberdade https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c08a5cea2.jpeg Arco da Porta Nova https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...122cac8ca.jpeg Cafes waiting for patrons - we enjoyed a break here at a more sunny time https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d81e8e383.jpeg Igreja do Hospital ou Igreja de São Marcos behind the city sign https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd24a024b.jpeg Dinner at Colher d’Pau - this is mushrooms, and they were fantastic https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14c7000fb.jpeg Another take on breaded, baked bacalhau |
Ooh, Braga looks very interesting. Was 3 nights a good amount of time? Did you visit Guimares?
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17546338)
Ooh, Braga looks very interesting. Was 3 nights a good amount of time? Did you visit Guimares?
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Oh, I love Braga! I haven't been there in so long. Your photos brought back memories.
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Glad you're enjoying the photos, ChristopSim. There are more coming.
Braga is perhaps best known for the Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte, a pilgrimage site and UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is about 5 km from the center of Braga, on the slopes of Mount Espinho. We could actually see it in the distance from the windows and terrace of our apartment. There's been a church on the site since the 14th Century, but the current structure was commissioned in the 17th Century. A series of staircases lead up to the church at the top, with symbolic fountains and small chapels along the way with terra-cotta scenes representing stations of the cross. You can drive to the site or take public transportation, and there is a 19th Century water-powered tram that will take you to the top. We chose to walk -- all the way there from the city center, and all the way up the staircases, and then all the way back. It was a nice walk, through some parks and residential areas. Despite the nice day, there weren't too many people there. Some were locals who appear to take advantage of the stairs for daily exercise. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12964c707.jpeg We started our day fortified by this Portuguese specialty - the pasteis de nata (egg custard tarts) - from a local bakery. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20f380ef6.jpeg The walk to the sanctuary takes you through some residential neighborhoods. There are some lovely homes along the way. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7338bd81.jpeg The lower staircases are tiled and slope gradually up, with small chapels along the way. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac7b1abae.jpeg Terra-cotta figures in one of the chapels https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9af805405.jpeg The upper staircase is steeper with some notable fountains https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc1aabd5e.jpeg View from one of the landings on the way up https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f25ce3af.jpeg The tram that you can take to the top, if so inclined https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9350549e.jpeg View over Braga from in front of the church https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3aa1c49d.jpeg At the top https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df829d2c6.jpeg The church - no photos allowed inside https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e1bb07a0.jpeg Behind the church, there is a park with some walking paths and a small lake |
The rest of day six in Braga...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7ead51ef.jpeg Pedestrianized center https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f4709ab9.jpeg Jardim de Santa Barbara and the medieval Archbishop’s Palace https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f19cf9ce4.jpeg Braga Cathedral https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8580f5d8a.jpeg Cathedral courtyard and cloister https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22b902fc2.jpeg Praxe is a student-run tradition in Portuguese universities to initiate freshmen into academic life. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6fb258907.jpeg We ran into them everywhere. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1c761d1f.jpeg There are various small museums around the city. We visited the Raio Palace (House of the Mexican), built in about 1754 under the design of Andre Soares. It was the family home of João Duarte de Faria, a wealthy merchant and member of the Knights Templar. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ae2cdcbb.jpeg Inside the Raio Palace https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97fe5c8be.jpeg The most decadent thing we ate on the entire trip - Arroz de Carabineiros at Santo by Chef. Next up, a day trip to Guimaraes. |
The Sancturary do Bom Jesus is stunning! Love that staircase! If we return to Portugal, we will definitely have to include Braga.
Looking forward to your report about Guimaraes. Do you prefer one city over the other? |
Waiting for Day 7 with bated breath...
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17546831)
Looking forward to your report about Guimaraes. Do you prefer one city over the other?
Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17546835)
Waiting for Day 7 with bated breath...
Guimaraes is about 30 minutes from Braga (driving). The city dates to the 10thCentury. It is where the first king of Portugal was born and the first capital of Portugal in the 12thCentury. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the preservation of its medieval architecture. Like Braga, much of the historic center is pedestrianized. We parked in the garage attached to a large shopping mall – about a 10-minute walk from the historical center – and then meandered our way to a tourist information center to get a map. .https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5eed2ce1.jpeg Walking into the old city of Guimaraes https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59721936a.jpeg Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira, gothic church dating to 950 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c66b74cc2.jpeg Old arches inside show various stages of building https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f5b90ca4.jpeg Inside the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec30a4af7.jpeg Up close with the organ https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0f475754.jpeg Medieval streets in the center are probably packed during peak season, but quiet during our visit https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da2361b1d.jpeg A very stately building https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...514f8dbf4.jpeg Castelo de Guimaraes, 11th Century fortress (renovation ongoing inside) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af00bfea8.jpeg Igreja de Sao Miguel do Castelo, medieval Romanesque-style church https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0ee4b673.jpeg Inside the Paco dos Duques de Braganca - Ducal palace and history museum - massive tapestry in the welcoming room https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0eb182c3b.jpeg Inner courtyard of the Ducal Palace https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a03e31710.jpeg Bedroom in the Ducal Palace - trying to decide if this looks comfortable? https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e239bdbf7.jpeg It was sunny and just warm enough for lunch on the square by the medieval town hall https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...309cc18f8.jpeg Courtyard in the Museum de Alberto Sampaio https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b874e8e30.jpeg You can walk along the remaining section of the old city walls https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc58fb2c1.jpeg Lobo Machado House, late 18th Century - it now houses and archaeology center https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...168cf633f.jpeg Jardim do Largo da Republica do Brasil https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c12b88d86.jpeg A fixer upper if interested in investing... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52b9fe065.jpeg These tanks, dating to the Middle Ages, were for washing, dyeing and drying leather to make clothes It was now getting later in the afternoon, and having seen much of what we came for, we headed back to the parking garage and our car. What happened next warrants its own post. |
Our visit to Guimaraes ended with a bang.
Still on the outskirts of the old city center (I wish I could tell you exactly where), we were on a very narrow street, sloping slightly downhill toward a small intersection. I’m bad at estimating distances, but we were likely around 30 feet from the intersection. There were old stone buildings, a couple of stories high, on all sides. The sidewalk, like the street, was very narrow, so I was walking a step ahead of mr_go. I was navigating toward our parking place, so looking at my phone. I didn’t see this materializing. He, on the other hand, saw a small white van coming from the other direction, on the other side of the intersection. Suddenly, it speeds way up and swerves, now heading directly at us. I heard him yell, then he grabbed my shoulder to stop my forward movement. I lost my balance and fell – landing on the sidewalk on my left elbow. I looked up just in time to see the impact. As the van reached the intersection, a white sedan entered from the side street (the van’s right, our left) and T-boned the van, sending it airborne. It hit a wall, flipped on its side, and began sliding up the street where we were. The sound was deafening, and everything seemed to happen in slow motion. The van finally came to rest maybe about 10 feet from where I was on the sidewalk, too stunned to move. Glass, pieces of reflector and construction supplies were all over in the street. After helping me up, he went up to the van, expecting the worst – and heard laughter from inside. It was two construction workers, and fortunately they were able to crawl out the window and seemed to be relatively unscathed. The woman in the car was also uninjured but quite rattled. For what it’s worth, it looked like the van had a stop sign and the car did not. There were a few people in the area who also saw this happen. The police arrived fairly quickly. We hung around for a while, but no one seemed to want to talk to us, so we finally left. We still had a 30-minute drive back to Braga, fortunately in light traffic so not too stressful. Then we made a beeline for a bar. My elbow BTW was fine – just a stinger that went away in a few minutes. We are grateful no one seemed to be injured – but it was a very close call. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7fa01624.jpeg |
Holy smokes! I think I'd head for a bar too. Glad no one was hurt.
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Originally Posted by Melnq8
(Post 17547034)
Holy smokes! I think I'd head for a bar too. Glad no one was hurt.
To wrap up this portion of our trip quickly, we’d like to give props to Tabuas, copos & outras cenas – a very nice tapas restaurant where we had dinner. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6c7c3c78.jpeg Marinated mackerel on a roasted red pepper on brown bread - I'd have seconds on this https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b8850301.jpeg Interestingly, we saw few other tourists in Braga. But we learned that like some other Portuguese cities, it has a fairly active expat population. We happened upon two different groups of American expats (in the same bar) during our stay there and had some interesting conversations. Next stop, three nights in the Douro Valley at the fantastic Casa do Visconde de Chanceileros (thank you, Maribel). |
'Holy smokes! I think I'd head for a bar too. Glad no one was hurt.'
I'm with Mel. Wow wow wow. So glad that no-one was hurt, including two intrepid travelers and their elbows. We now have something in common this way MsGo. On Xmas Day '88, my pal was driving our rental on the notorious highway just outside Coimbra, a freeway that Lets Go described then as 'one of the most dangerous routes in Portugal statistics-wise'. Young Curious now to read about Maribel's recco in the Douro. I am done. The Douro |
I am amazed no one was seriously injured! You and your husband were very lucky, too! I would head to a bar as well!:)
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zebec, that sounds terrifying at highway speed. Overall, we didn't find the driving to be too bad - but there are idiot drivers everywhere.
Many visitors take a day trip to the Douro Valley from Porto. Being the wine lovers that we are, we thought it would be nice to stay there a few days and explore. That would also give a more relaxed, “rural” aspect to our trip. We also like to hike, and it is possible to do so in this area from some of the estates – although by the time we got there we realized the weather was going to have a say about that! In 2020, we were set to stay at a very nice Quinta near the town of Peso da Regua, one of two prominent towns along the Douro. In replanning this trip, we decided we’d like to be closer to the smaller town of Pinahão. Our destination was about a two-hour drive from Braga, depending on the route. We wanted a lunch stop somewhere in between. I read a few blogs and found a rave recommendation for Amarante. The historic old part of the town has a 16th Century church with a famous organ, as well as a medieval bridge. We found it a charming place to stop, stretch our legs, and then have a light lunch. As has been the case on this trip, the weather seemed to change on a dime. It was cloudy but dry when we arrived. Then the sun came out while we were walking around. And it was raining fairly hard when we finished lunch. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d75d08112.jpeg Amarante from the river-side parking area https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56caca2b5.jpeg The medieval bridge, leading to the 16th Century Igreja e Mosteiro de São Gonçalo de Amarante https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b36b965b0.jpeg Baroque facade of Igreja e Mosteiro de São Gonçalo https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46ccfa477.jpeg Medieval fountain https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b8ce690c.jpeg Inside Igrej de São Gonçalo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa85943ed.jpeg The famous organ https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29caf4c9d.jpeg Lunch was here - simple but nice sandwiches The one-hour drive between Amarante and Pinahão was not exactly an easy one. Part of it was on the autoestrada, and traffic was fairly light – but it was pouring rain at some points to the point the windshield wipers were barely helping. Once we got off the highway, the rain abated, but the winding hills started. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74b9ac9e4.jpeg The drive between Amarante and Pinhao - this doesn't look good, but better on this day when it was "warmer." Two days later, this area had snow. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66f6e1b13.jpeg Once off the autoestrada, the rain gave way to clearing skies and views of the Douro hills The Europcar agent in Porto had urged us to upgrade our vehicle when we told him we were going to the Douro Valley. We were skeptical that this was a pitch to get more money, but he explained that the “economy” car we’d rented came with a one-liter engine, and that wouldn’t be good on the hills. You know what? He may have been right. If you’re going to drive in the Douro or mountains of northern Portgual, a small car is good, but a small engine is not. |
Enjoying your latest installment about Amarante and the drive to the Douro Valley. Good tip about needing a larger car for the Douro hills. Even though I am sure it was worrisome driving in that pounding rain, snow would have been much worse.
Even though I don't know when we will return to Portugal, I have a list of places I would like to see, including the Douro Valley. I am always going back and forth in my mind about seeing the Douro Valley as a day trip or overnighting for a few nights. I think you and others have me sold on staying overnight! |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17547213)
Even though I don't know when we will return to Portugal, I have a list of places I would like to see, including the Douro Valley. I am always going back and forth in my mind about seeing the Douro Valley as a day trip or overnighting for a few nights. I think you and others have me sold on staying overnight!
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When looking at accommodations, we considered staying at several wine-producing estates near Pinahão but in the end chose Casa do Visconde de Chanceileros, an 18th Century manor house. The proprietor purchased it several decades ago when it was in significant disrepair. A lot of investment, care and love has gone into this property, which is exquisitely designed and furnished, inside and out. There are about a dozen rooms of various types across the estate. We chose the junior suite, which is huge – not just a room with multiple sitting areas, but also a very large sunroom and a similarly sized patio. So many little touches – not the least was the bottle of port in the room which was refilled daily. And a wonderful and friendly staff.
It is about 10 minutes from Pinahão via a small, winding road, but the drive didn’t seem too bad as there was rarely any traffic (nevertheless, maybe not a drive we wanted to make at night, in the dark). Breakfast is included with the room. A four-course dinner is available for 50 Euros p/p with wine and port (40 Euros p/p without). We thought about going into Pinahão for dinner but never really felt compelled to do so after the excellent dinner on our first evening there. It was still low season during our visit, and only two rooms were occupied each of our nights there. Unfortunately, it was too cold to use the pool or even spend much time on our patio - but we still loved our stay. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58b8443f9.jpeg The panoramic view from our terrace - I'm afraid we're never leaving! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57d2f8ced.jpeg When it's too cool outside (as it unfortunately was), our suite had this lovely sunroom https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c2264f06.jpeg Views around the estate https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef9e7077e.jpeg More views https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...540ec0e8b.jpeg The flowering gardens https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcf818187.jpeg Dinner setting https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52221a625.jpeg Night one entree, steak and peppers https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce036485a.jpeg Our dinner companions - the house pups |
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