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-   -   LIGURIAN COAST..Camogli or SML or ?? Best base and general advice sought! (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/ligurian-coast-camogli-or-sml-or-best-base-and-general-advice-sought-358836/)

ekscrunchy May 14th, 2008 06:50 AM

Food is very important to me, but fancy restaurants are not important. I generally seek out local places with emphasis on seasonal ingredients. I don't care about decor much. I frequently use the SlowFood guides to pick restaurants but there seem to few listings for this part of the coast..

Since Camogli is a popular weekend destination for Italians, I would think that there would be some good places to eat, right?


ekscrunchy May 14th, 2008 07:20 AM

A quick search turned up four places on this restaurant site, in Italian, which I will post for anyone else who may be headed that way:



http://www.qristoranti.it/recensioni/italia/liguria/

SeaUrchin May 14th, 2008 10:28 AM

You know there are some beaches nearby SML, check out this hotel:
http://tinyurl.com/4727os

The beach in town is small but people were swimming. The hotel Helios has a sea pool area as well as a regular pool area, they care connected sort of.

I can ask my friend who lives in SML exactly where the beaches are, I know they are some nice ones because he taunts me with cell phone photos of them!


ekscrunchy May 15th, 2008 04:46 AM

Thanks, SeaUrchin. Again!

I narrowed it down to the three linked below, but have now added the Hotel Helios, which does get a few mixed reviews on TA:


http://www.hotelhelios.com/en/tariffe.asp?id=1


Metropole in SML (sea swimming with chairs on rock terrace; reviews not as good as Miramare)

http://www.metropole.it/


Miramare in SML (have to check to see if their beach area will be open; they say it is open only to mid-September and we will be there the third week)

http://www.grandhotelmiramare.it/

Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli


http://www.cenobio.com/

JulieVikmanis May 15th, 2008 05:36 AM

We stayed at the Miramare in SML and it was one of my husband's favorite hotels ever.

ekscrunchy May 15th, 2008 05:50 AM

Julie thanks! You have stayed in both the Miramare and at the Cenobio in Camogli so your advice is much appreciated! The only issue with the Miramare is that they appear to close their pool and beach club in mid-September, and we would be there on the third week of that month. I will write to them and confirm that..

I would love to read opinions of the other hotels I mentioned above, in case the Miramare does not work for us due to the pool/beach closing. Their prices are also a good bit higher than those of the Metropole in SML; the Cenobio is Camogli is priced between the two.


Traviata May 15th, 2008 07:23 AM

Hi ek,

The best thing about Cenobio is the setting...it sits right at the water's edge on the Golfo Paradiso. The breakfast room has floor to ceiling glass walls that overlook this gulf...really a great way to start the day, and then, at night, their terrace is a beautiful place to watch the sun come down. We have had several different rooms, some fresher than others, but all were fine....and the bathrooms were newly renovated. There are many areas in the hotel..parlors, small chapel, bar, etc..all available to you as a guest. Staff was very good to us.

ekscrunchy May 15th, 2008 09:47 AM

Thanks, Traviata: And the Cenobio is very close to the actual town of Camogli, right?



Traviata May 15th, 2008 09:58 AM

Yes, ek....we had a car but only used it for trips out of town...Camogli is so small, you can walk everywhere....there are two levels...the hotel is at sea level with the beach, the promenade, restaurants and small shops. There is a set of stairs near to the hotel which you access for the upper part of town with the train and other shops....you can walk the whole place easily.

ekscrunchy May 15th, 2008 10:44 AM

I just wrote to the Cenobio dei Dogi. I read about how the rooms vary a good deal and so asked some questions about having renovated rooms either with sea view or facing the pool.
I also wanted to ensure that the pool would still be open during the third week in September.

I will let you know the outcome. I have to gather all the information about the various possibilities and present it to my friends.

Many thanks for your help!!

ekscrunchy May 16th, 2008 09:07 AM

Now to veer off into uncharted waters with an unrelated question:



I am well along in planning this trip. One of my friends, who is interested in ferry (and train) travel and maritime activities, had asked me about the feasibility of including a day in Corsica. I have done my best to discourage this idea, as it appears that Corsica deserves more time than a night or two.

I am hoping to turn his attention to Elba, which looks as if it is easily accessible from Piombino by a ferry ride of an hour or so. So, my question: Is it feasible to take a day trip to Elba from the Ligurian coast? (I understand that most people would think this entire idea a bit strange but you have to know the parties involved). What would that entail, a train to Piombino and then the ferry? Would these Elba ferries run frequently in mid-September?


Jim_Tardio May 16th, 2008 11:28 AM

You may also want to consider Levanto as a base. I think you'll find a larger hotel selection and a bit more outdoor nightlife.

Day tripping from there is a breeze...either by train or ferry.

I visited Elba for a day and only saw Portoferraio, where your ferry will dock. It's a typical Italian seaside town, and worth a visit if you have the time. We parked our car and hopped the ferry...so I can't comment on a train there.

ekscrunchy May 16th, 2008 11:54 AM

Thanks, Jim. I have left Elba as a possible side trip to be decided upon once we get to our base, which will be either Camogli or Santa Maria Ligure. So I will have to leave Levanto for a future trip!

We have heard from the Metropole Hotel in Santa Margherita. Unfortunately, they will not confirm rooms in the seaside villa but they told me they would "make note of our request."

In Camogli, the Cenobio dei Dogi has single rooms for 155 and double standard sea view for 295. (And 210 for standard double garden rooms; 255 for double superior garden view). The available rooms are "in the pink building over the pool." Does this mean anything to anyone who has stayed at the hotel?



Jim_Tardio May 16th, 2008 01:37 PM

<i>So I will have to leave Levanto for a future trip!</i>

Probably not. If you plan to visit the Cinque Terre you will pass through Levanto coming &amp; going from either SML or Camogli.

Have fun.

ekscrunchy May 16th, 2008 01:47 PM

Oh, Jim, I must sound like a dolt! I am driving myself a bit crazy about this decision between Campoli and SML. Of course I will pass through Levanto en route to the CT!

The funny thing is, I did not really have too much desire to visit the CT (and have not read much about it yet) because of the reports of how overrun with tourists it has become. I must be in a minority here because many people must visit these towns with an eye towards the CT!

But now that we are Liguria bound (and my friends are keen hikers) I know that we will be paying a visit! And will pass though Levanto! Perhaps the crowds will not be so great in September.

If anyone else has suggested walks and/or easy hikes, please chime in!

Also, my friend has now mentioned renting a car. Do you think this would allow accessibility to places not covered by public transport? How difficult is the driving around SML/Camogli and into the hilltowns?
(We would NOT have a car anywhere near Genoa!)

Lewis May 16th, 2008 07:07 PM

Hi ek

Jim is right, some call Levanto the 6th CT town!

The rooms at the Cenobio above the pool are beautiful, great views.

We had one of the garden rooms around the corner from the pool and it was fine also. I remember the A/C in that room was great!!

We had a car that we picked up in La Spezia our 2nd to last day in Camogli. We picked up the car for our Tuscany part of the trip.
The Cenobio has a big parking lot below the train station.
We only used trains and ferries and busses for visits to the CT, Portovenere, Levanto, SML, Portofino etc.

If you do a search for &quot;Cinque Terre Hikes&quot; you'll come across a book on the trails, printed in the UK, I can't remember the name of it, sorry.

ekscrunchy May 17th, 2008 04:00 AM

Many thanks for all of this great help!

I now have quotes from the Miramare in Santa Margherita Ligure. The hotel is more expensive than the Cenobio but it certainly looks lovely. So now we have to decide between the three!

We will consider a car for some part of the stay.

Thankfully, the subject of visiting Elba has not been broached againi!

PeaceOut May 17th, 2008 07:27 AM

My daughter visited Elba and thought it was very nice, and low-key. More a place where the Italians take their vacations, so not so much a tourist place.


Byrd May 17th, 2008 08:14 AM

ttt

ekscrunchy May 17th, 2008 01:57 PM

Well I think we will pass on Elba. But I don't understand why a place that Italians take their vacations would not be good for tourists from other places!! I would rather be around vacationing Italians while vacationing in Italy!

PeaceOut May 18th, 2008 08:11 AM

ekscrunchy, that was my point, that Elba might not be overrun with tourists.

ekscrunchy May 19th, 2008 04:15 AM

Thanks for that clarification!

We are having so much trouble deciding that we are now considering spending three nights in SML and three nights in Camogli! I am assuming that there are taxis between the two towns if we do not want to lug things on the train..

JulieVikmanis May 19th, 2008 05:03 AM

That would provided a certain insurance that you'd like at least one, if not both. One time we traveled with friends staying in the Northern Italian lake country and they stayed in one town while we stayed in another for part of the trip. It provided a space in our togetherness, gave us some alone time, and gave us the opportunity to &quot;host&quot; each other in our respective towns. It was kind of fun. Of course, that opens the possibility that each of you might like the other's town best. Just like our friends jokingly accuse us of always getting &quot;the good room&quot; when stay in the same hotel together.

Traviata May 19th, 2008 05:06 AM


ek,

Splitting the time may be a good compromise. I love Camogli, but, I have only spent two or three nights each time. It is pretty small and perhaps for six nights, you would find it REALLY small.

ekscrunchy May 19th, 2008 06:01 AM

I cannot thank both of you enough. I don't remember every having so much difficulty deciding between hotels.
Thanks for bearing with me in my obsessiveness!

Now my only decision will be whether to take the Metropole in SML (pool and beach open, villa rooms can not be assured) or spend a lot more and go with the Miramare in SML (pool and beach also open).

In Camogli the Cenobio will be the place.

So we will have 3 in SML; 3 in Camogli; and 3 in Genoa..
unless of course we do 2 in Genoa and 1 in some hideaway in a small village nearby.......(!!)

PeaceOut May 19th, 2008 07:45 AM

I could be wrong, and we only saw Genoa from our train windows, but I'm wondering if others think 3 nights in Genoa is a good idea. I don't see it written up here as a recommended place to stay.

scatcat May 19th, 2008 07:49 AM

Many on this board like Genoa, but it is not on my list of places to re-visit. Maybe I missed the good parts.

ekscrunchy May 19th, 2008 09:45 AM

We could cut this to 2 nights in Genoa if I find another interesting town in which to spend a night....maybe inland Liguria??

We may take that train to Casella on one of our Genoa days.

Steve_James May 20th, 2008 01:00 AM

Hi Eks - Like others, I'm not sure I'd choose to stay in Genoa - you can easily visit Genoa as a day-trip from Camogli or SML.

Why not spend a couple of days on the Riviera del Ponente instead?
Finale Ligure? Noli? Further west?

Steve


ekscrunchy May 20th, 2008 02:55 AM

Steve..the Genoa idea comes from one of my travel companions who is very interested in seaports and maritime history. We have to leave from the Genoa airport and, after I did some reading in the Cadogan guide I thought that the city sounded interesting enough to devote a few nights. And then I found the information on that train that travels to Casella. (He also likes trains).

I will suggest that we cut the time in Genoa to two, or even one, night..

Thank you!

ekscrunchy May 20th, 2008 03:08 AM

I forgot to mention that in Genoa I may want to visit the Staglieno cemetery:



http://www.significantcemeteries.net...ova/Intro.html

Steve_James May 20th, 2008 04:32 AM

If you want to swim in the sea, Eks, consider Paraggi (- between SML and Portofino). Picturesque little cove with private beach ...

http://tinyurl.com/45yccm

http://tinyurl.com/3qzohx

Steve

scatcat May 20th, 2008 07:26 AM

Steve

Do you mind if I use the first picture as my desktop? That is beautiful. Is it possible to reach Paraggi by bus or ferry?

ekscrunchy May 20th, 2008 11:21 AM

WOW!!!!!!!!!! Wow again!!! Thank you, Steve!

I booked three nights in Camogli and will follow this with 3 in SML..can I get to Paraggi by public transport? Or even walking from SML?

JulieVikmanis May 20th, 2008 03:13 PM

Steve is the first picture of a resort or of a private home? We've gone by it by boat several times and I've seen pix of it many times, can you actually stay there? What's the name?

Jim_Tardio May 20th, 2008 04:04 PM

Not to put a damper on your plans, but I'm wondering why you want to change hotels at all.

From either SML or Camogli you can criss-cross this whole region several times in a day...it's not that big. The towns aren't very different.

Unless you enjoy switching hotels just for the joy of switching, I don't see what this does for you.

I'm inclined to agree with Steve here. Why not take a few of those days and visit another area...the Lake region comes to mind.

Steve_James May 21st, 2008 02:02 AM

Paraggi is on the bus route between SML and Portofino.

The ferries don't stop there, unfortunately :(

Scatcat - The photo isn't mine - so feel free ;)

Julie - I don't remember if it's a private home or a hotel.

Maybe you could write to the Tourist Office and ask?
[email protected]

Hope this helps ...

Steve

ekscrunchy May 21st, 2008 03:55 AM

Many, many thanks! I will present these ideas to my friends but I am still wondering just how bad Genoa can be that we could not find some interesting things to do in two days. Remember, one of my friends has this interest in seaports.

But if you all think it is a really awful place, I will do my best to alter the plans...

About the Lakes....what would be the easiest access from SML? If I can persuade my friends to forego Genoa, would a car be the best option? Is there any direct public transportation from SML or from Genoa?

And after that we would have to travel to Malpensa for our flight home. Would the Lakes really work for 3 nights from SML?

I will have to bring you each a bottle of Ligurian olive oil for all of your kindness in helping me out!


ekscrunchy May 21st, 2008 04:05 AM

It's me again! A quick look turned up the idea of traveling by car to the Lakes after SML if we can forego Genoa.

It appears that Stresa has direct transport to Malpensa. Would that town be a good base for 3 nights? If so, we could let go of the car once we reach our hotel on the Lake and then get to the airport by bus..


Byrd May 21st, 2008 04:20 AM

I wonder if this is the Paraggi location Steve posted.


http://www.hotelparaggi.it/


Those pictures are so beautiful I had to look for it, too!

Byrd


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