An "older" couple who are very keen on walking and biking in search of wonderful vistas. Happily, they are fish eaters and will not be able to avoid my enthusiasm about the food!

Your friends are likely to enjoy San Rocco, right above the Cenobio dei Dogi. If they are very fit, they can take the stairs. Otherwise, the bus that stops in front of the post office goes first to the belvedere at Ruta -- lovely view -- whereupon you can get off and walk the long, flat road to the San Rocco belvedere. (30 mins.) Or else hop on the bus that goes there.

For a truly spectacular view, go up to the Portofino Kulm (it's above Ruta/San Rocco) -- but I don't know how to get there other than hike (the way I took) and it's a steep hike. Ask at the Cenobio or go when you have a car. It's one of the best views on the Ligurian coast. On one side you see all the way past Genova into the province of Imperia. On the other side, you look all the way down the coast to Le Cinque Terre. On a perfectly clear day (it can get foggy up there, so be careful) it's breathtaking.

I would think that it is possible to rent bikes in either Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo, and then pedal along the shoreline between Rapallo and Portofino. Be aware that the roadway to Portofino is incredibly narrow, and I definitely would not pick a nice weekend day to do it. Even though the best way to enter Portofino is by boat, avid bike riders might very much enjoy the coastal pathway.

Your friends will surely be impressed by the number of people in the 60s in spandex heading straight up and down the Ligurian hills, dodging buses and grandmothers.

If you do go to Genova, I think both the Italian Touring Club and Cadogan talk about the No. 33 bus (I think that's the number) that circumnavigates the middle tier of Genova, offering spectacular views of the port. You can also take the funiculars and ascensores near Stazione Principe up to similar vantage points.

You might find these interesting.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/cr....html#continue

http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel...tles-BR-1.html

If your friends are avid walkers/climbers, they can hike all thru the national park of Monte Portofino, beginning at any number of start points. But in fine weather, it's also good to get out on a boat ride. The national park of Portofino actually extends several miles into the sea, and the waters are protected.

If you can't get enough of Ligurian sea towns, Portovenere to the south is exceptinally dramatic and pretty, and Sestri Levante has an unusually pretty bay. For something a little different, head up to Montemarcello, a pine forest with views across the Tuscan coast.

Zeppole, let me thank you again for this wealth of amazing information.

Nonna Nina sounds most exciting. Why do you think that lunch would be better than dinner? I may have a difficult time persuading my friends to indulge in big lunchtime meals...although I could go myself while they are off doing the healthy activities!! I know that they will appreciate the information on biking and wallking. We do plan to take a day to visit the Cinque Terre; I have never been there and hope to go during the week to avoid the worst of the crowds...

I suggested La Cucina di Nonna Nina for lunch only because of the bus schedules. I think the last bus up there from either Camogli or S.Margherita Ligure is just before 8pm -- still a bit early for the Italian dinner hour, although if it is not windy or chilly, it is perfectly pleasant to stroll about for a while and take in the view. The sole bar up there will be closed by then.

The staircase back down is quite adequately lit at night (I take it up and down all the time when it's dark). But then, to some extent, you miss the charm of the stairs.

You'll find the cost of a taxi to be a shocker -- it's something like 15 euros, but the restaurant is happy to call one for you.

I wanted to mention a few more things: if any of starts clamoring for smaller meals, the wine bars serve plates of cheese and cured meats (I Tre Merli and the enoteca on the via delle Republicca have the best wines and breads to go with them). As I mentioned before, La Primula serves salads and pizza, and the Creperie is great for lunch.

The Bar Pippi in San Rocco has an extensive selection of homemade Bruschettas that make for a tasty lunch. For the athletic, a boat ride from Camogli to Punta Chiappa, then a climb up the stairs to San Rocoo, some bruschetta for lunch, then a walk back down the stairs to Camogli would be lovely. For late risers, the walk can be done in reverse (and the super athletic can substitute San Fruttuoso for Punta Chiappa).

If you weary of pasta, there is a fine Ligurian specialty that is like ravioli but where lettuce is used instead of pasta for the wrapping. It usually goes by the name of "lattughe ripiene al brodo," and Nonna Nina sometimes has it, as does the Hostaria del Pesce at the "far" end the via delle Republicca (no sea view).

I can't remember if you've said you've already been to Le Cinque Terre, but I believe the one walk not worth doing at all is the so-called famed "lover's walk" between Riomaggiore and Manarola. It's paved, fenced, crowded, etc. If your friends enjoy walking, they'll probably want something else.

Zeppole, this is all great info. But according to Cadogan, Nonna Nina is open for dinner only. We can take the taxi back if you think we "need" to eat there and it sounds as if we do!

They certainly will be clamoring for a light lunch on most days, so your tips are very helpful! I have not been to the CT and will go on a day trip one day with my friends, so the tips about the walk are most helpful.
I would say that my friends are in good shape for their age, early 70s. They both do lots of easy walking and biking on flat surfaces. Is there a particular (easy, for me!) walk that you would recommend in the CT, other than the crowded "Lover's Walk."

Now, if we commit a morning to the train ride to the CT and a walk, would you recommend eating in one of the towns? (I really would like to get away from places that are mobbed with non-Italian tourists and since I've not yet done much reading on the CT towns, I am eager to hear your ideas..) I see that there is a SlowFood pick in Riomaggiore, Ripa del Sole (closed Mondays) and also one above Monterosso, Il Ciliegio, also closed Mondays. (Pickup from the town can be arranged, apparently) And in Corniglia, A Cantina de Mananan, closed Tuesdays.

I could probably convince my friends to have a good lunch, especially if the place has a nice view (Il Ciliegio seems to have a great one) and if they have hiked in the morning...

Nope. Cadogan is incorrect. Here is their web page, and you can see they are open for lunch:

http://www.nonnanina.it/eng/contatta..._nina.asp?pg=7

If your friends are in their early 70s, I would wait until you get to Liguria to see how happy they are with all the steep staircases, both up and down.

As for Le Cinque Terre, I had an unfortunate visit -- mobbed with tourists, felt like a forced march -- and ended up doing what I always do when I find myself in that kind of jam: I just started walking uphill, confident I'd soon lose everybody. I did that in Manarola.

If I ever went back to Le Cinque Terre, I would go on a calm, sunny day and take the boat that goes between the towns.

Other people have nice experiences of Le Cinque Terre. Friends of mine liked the restaurant Miky, but that was a few years ago.

By the way, Nonna Nina itself has no view. The view is from the tiny piazza in front of the church and from the road going to and from Ruta.

Zeppole, thanks for the website. It appears to be just my style! Not too fancy but with lots of interesting local fare.

This couple has been to the CT on a daytrip so perhaps they will want to do their walking elsewhere in the area..but I suppose if I will be so close, that we ought to visit for at least a part of one day.. For myself, I would prefer swimming to hiking and hope that I will get the opportunity for some long swims!

I have already decided that I will, if given the chance, return to Liguria; one can barely scratch the surface in one short, 6-day visit. The more I read, the more enthusiastic I become!

Without knowing your friends, it's hard to judge what kind of walking they'll find most enjoyable. If they can handle hikes, Liguria is full of hills!

But if they prefer long walks on flat stretches, my recommendation would be Sestri Levante, which has a very long, double-sided promontory, and I've always find quite charming.

And of course, walking from Ruta to San Rocco, instead of taking the bus.

And although I am not all that fond of Nervi (a near-suburb of Genova), it has a very famous long, seaside promenade and the local train goes right there.

http://www.nervi.ge.it/english/passegUK.html

And you might find this useful

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...pagewanted=all

I forget that there is also a cable car that begins not far from the train station in Rapallo and goes up to a Santuario in the hills. (I believe the church is named "Monteallegro."

I suspect it's possible to walk up or down as well -- depending on which is easier on the knees.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationP...n_Riviera.html

sorry, this may be a better set of pictures:

http://images.google.com/images?q=ca...a=N&tab=wi

Zeppole: A quick question. In reading the Nonna Nina menu, I see that pesto is featured only in the spring and summer months. So if it is not in season at other times, how do most restaurants keep it on the menu? Do they use basil from other places?

I realize that this question will be of interest to no one else, but I am wondering. Of course to me it is perfectly natural to be reading a menu for a meal I will take in late September...

There are greenhouses all over the area, which you might see if you look out the train window on your way through Recco especially.

I recall having a delicious pesto in La Cucina di Nonna Nina last September, but I guess it was before the 22nd! They are purists. But I've enjoyed pesto at Vento Ariel in March. I did go up for another pesto at Nonna Nina this spring.

It's always a toss up about whether one wants to eat outdoors when the weather is nice and gaze at the sea, or go to one of the better restaurants with no view or that's inside. Sometimes La Primula is just irresistible for dinner, even though people mostly rave about the coffee, cocktails and gelato, not the entrees.

I also wanted to mention that I've also enjoyed Capon Magro at Cenobio dei Dogi. It's a nice local specialty that they make in an individual portion.

That dish (capon magro) looks like quite a production! I suppose I should try it when I am in the area!

Saveur magazine did an excellent article on Genoa years ago that included fascinating details about the history of the dish..

I never thought of greenhouses! I wonder if NN will still be on their summer menu in late September..

For me, I would always sacrifice good views in favor of great food!

Capon Magro usually is a production, made for a feast, and I don't know that I would have had it except Cenobio dei Dogi serves it in individual portions as an antipasto. It's a light starter, which can be nice

You might find this interesting.

http://www.liguriapocket.com/eng/tap...?ID=TAP0000093

Thanks, Zeppole! My friends may want to have one dinner at the Cenobbio so I will try capon magro if the dish is on their menu. And there is also cima alle Genovese, which also sounds like a complicated dish to prepare! I think I will start start a thread on eating on the Ligurian coast so this discussion will be under a more relevant heading!

Here is the cima recipe, in case anyone is interested:



http://www.italiancookingandliving.c...s=,pt=nc,.html

I've yet to try cima, so don't know where to recommend you do. You might try looking for it at the salumeria on the via delle Republicca in Camogli, on the train side of the street, on your way to Rizzo's. It has the word "antico" above the door. The rest escapes me.

wonderful info. Thanks to all.