Liberty, Frugality, and the Family: Paris 2012 and London afterwards
 

We got back last night. I have soup simmering in the pot, hand imported tea in my cup. A cold front just moved in, and icy rain is beating on the window. Time to jot some things down.

One aims to inform and amuse in these reports. I find that reading about other peoples' annoyances and inconveniences is always fun, so will avoid monotonous sunniness.

Our 22 year old daughter, MC, is spending the school year as an English language assistant in the Hautes-Alpes. The Christmas holidays have always been a big deal for us, and my husband (let's call him "Bob") and our 21 year old daughter H both had breaks from their schools. We had BA avios burning a hole in our pockets. Though never allowed to ask for time off during Christmas at my job, I gave it a try and got the same three weeks off that H did from her university. All right: we'll rendezvous with MC in Paris, Bob will return to work after ten days, and the girls and I will have some time together in London.

I've always liked BA, and our balance of avios added to the illusion that we could afford this trip. Our flights over, AA from STL to ORD and then BA from ORD to LHR, went well. However, when H and I returned yesterday, we sat on the LHR tarmac for almost four hours while they tried to fix a brake problem, sent off for an entire assembly and installed it. I believe in working brakes, but: doesn't it make sense to fix your plane before filling it to the bursting point with whiny humans?

I believe in working brakes, but: doesn't it make sense to fix your plane before filling it to the bursting point with whiny humans?>>

yes it's so obvious isn't it, and yet they never seem to factor that in.

I'm sorry that you aren't able to give us monotonous sunniness as it implies things went wrong; I'm hoping for some sunny interludes at least.

great start any way - keep it coming.

Yes, do please keep it coming as time permits.

Looking forward to hearing about Paris and the music.

looking forward to hearing about your trip!

I can't wait to find out what France is like. :-)

Signing on for the ride.

Your plane from LHR to ORD was no doubt the same aircraft that arrived from ORD that morning. Probably the arriving pilot reported mushy brakes or s/he made a hard landing, requiring an inspection.

At that point, either the mechanic/supervisor or the departing pilot decided to do a brake job. Under some circumstances, the departing pilot could simply have put it on his non-critical out of service list. Planes take off every day with things not working. They just can't be _critical_ things, and the pilot has the ultimate decision.

The good news: by doing it at LHR, they had all the parts available, not something very likely if they had to pull it out of service at ORD. Twice I have had to wait while airlines flew in parts, and they come on the next scheduled flight, not by some unscheduled emergency airlift. When the next flight is next day, you get to spend the night in a hotel.

The takeaway here is that no airline these days has lots of extra airplanes just sitting around waiting to replace an aircraft that has a problem. BA most certainly had/has extra aircraft, but not necessarily aircraft you would want to fly over the arctic.

Thank you, Ann, taconict, opald, crazyf4, and Nikki. You are good and kind. Kerouac will be happy to hear that Paris is, if anything, lovelier than ever.

Ackislander, I appreciate that explanation. Having seen the Liam Neeson movie with the wolves, I especially wouldn't want plane trouble over the Arctic. I suppose we couldn't have waited in the terminal because invariably someone would wander off?

I remain a BA fan. The crew were adorable: the announcements from the cockpits, the flight attendants who remained smiling and professional after 12 hours' worth of disgruntled huddled masses. I like being surrounded by youth and beauty as much as the next person (unless he is male), and admired their maquillage and coiffures. I had ordered the Hindu diet for the flight over, and the Asian Veg on return. Delicious.

Yes, you should have been able to wait in the terminal. With the new regulations and fines in the US you probably would have been waiting in the terminal there. Note that even if they swap planes you can still wind up waiting. At boarding time for my recent Miami-Rio flight we were waiting for the plane to be brought over from the hanger, and then we had to wait on board for the service log to catch up with it. And for a minor mechanical to get fixed.

I had so much valuable advice for this trip. Some I copied without noting the source, and am grateful to all.

Having secured time off from work and plane tickets, I began the search for lodging by early summer. I had never realized before that the holidays are highest Paris tourist season, but when I started looking at VRBO and other vacation rental sites, I saw that our dates, December 23 through January 2, were at the highest premium. (See the "frugality" part of the title.)

We'd used airbnb.com with success in Chicago and Madison WI, and I had booked MC a room in Nice through them, so I spent a lot of time looking there. You pay the entire amount in advance, not great for large amounts so far in advance, but I like that they don't release the $ to host until after you've been there a day.

I read the reviews carefully, considering only those with several good ratings, discounting complaints on the level of "the towels didn't match" and steering clear of any host who had ever canceled a booking less than a few months in advance. I also look at square meters for reasonable spaciousness.

For Paris, we settled onwww.airbnb.com/rooms/218151
booked/paid by midsummer.

We loved this place. The photos give an accurate idea of the airy beauty and calm aesthetics of the place, and it's just around the corner from the beautiful Place des Vosges yet on a quiet residential street. (It is on the ground floor, and there's a Catholic elementary school on the corner, but that was closed for holidays.) The price was extremely right and not inflated for season. As always, there are minor quirks when staying in someone's place. I'd be happy to discuss if anyone wants more detail: [email protected].

I looked at airbnb for London, but didn't find anything compelling. Hotwire.com had a good deal on what turned out to be the Doubletree Hilton on Southampton Row, so booked H and my last four nights there. When I know MC could come for five nights in London, I got us a basic triple at the Arran House, (£110/night including breakfast) where we'd stayed six years ago and loved. arranhotel-london.com/ More about these later, but they were both just fine.

Bob, H, and I were to arrive at LHR early morning Dec. 23, and our Paris apartment was to be available by noon. I didn't find any good flights to CDG, so we decided to take the Piccadilly Line to St. Pancras, then Eurostar. That worked fine, and gave Bob a little taste of London. Thanks to TimS for help on estimating travel times both ways, and to flanner for mentioning the necessity of getting Eurostar tickets well in advance for holiday travel.

MC came up by train from the south.

that apartment in Paris looks lovely, Stoke.

I've never stayed in that neighbourhood, so I'll be interested to read more about it.

Enjoying your report. As I mentioned on your transportation thread, my cousin and I were nearby in Paris for most of the same time period. I hope you had as wonderful a visit as we did.

ttt

Gorgeous apartment. I like the ones that look like people live there rather than just being a rental. Looking forward to the rest of the report.

PARIS

The Marais/Bastille

This location was ideal for us. In our town, 110 year old houses are very old. We found the Marais' ancient, sometimes medieval, pre-Hausmann surroundings are deeply satisfying. Our apartment reportedly served at one time as Mme de Sévigné's stables.

Though some parts of the Marais were mobbed Christmas week, the area north of the Place des Vosges remained unaffected. We were within easy walks of fun streets in the Bastille, where MC had spent fall semester two years ago, and the jazz manouche/gypsy jazz club Atelier Charonne.

It is an easy walk from there to the river. Most picturesquely, continue west past the St. Paul metro stop, past the Scottish pub and the Socialist office, and turn left down the cobblestones behind St. Gervais church.

For me, the Marché Bastille, formerly Richard Lenoir, was culinary heaven. I also bought a finely woven cashmere scarf there, my one personal purchase that I've worn daily since.

The Patisserie Gérard Mulot, a small clean laundromat, and Café Hugo for morning noisette or coffee are close by and patronized by locals.

Bob finally stopped referring to the Place des Vosges as "that little courtyard", but never tired of hanging out there. Almost every morning a musician stood at the archway where r.d Béarn enters the Place, taking advantage of the acoustics. Sometimes a violinist. One morning as we approached, we thought it was a soprano and baritone, but turned out to be one man alternately countertenor. He wore a kind of turban, a long black cape, and a mournful expression. I threw him an offering.

Several mornings we heard the group Borsalino swinging away jazz manouche style. They set up on the western side where they can catch the morning sun and attract people from the park. Stand up bassist plays excellently, accordion, two guitars. We bought a CD and listened to it around the apartment.

Thank you, Ann! You and Mr. Hig might enjoy that area.

Fun that you were there, too, Leely.

bilbo, kind of you.

Thanks, AGM. It felt very much like housesitting for some artsy friends. The owners are an interior designer and maybe an architect. Almost all of those books are about art and design, though up the loft some mystery novels in English. She set out tourist guides along the Steves lines. Recent guests appear to have been Italian and Dutch.

What the countertenor reminded me of:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VM12v_8an1M

Gorgeous apartment. I like the ones that look like people live there rather than just being a rental. Looking forward to the rest of the report.>>

lol, we rented one like that in Rome once - it was full of books, paintings and art works, and half-used jars of jam in the fridge, as if the owner had just gone out for walk. we loved it.

<<Our apartment reportedly served at one time as Mme de Sévigné's stables.>>

stoke- i'm glad the horses had gone before you got there.

thanks for the youtube link - I didn't know that one. did you see Rowan Atkinson at the Olympic opening ceremony?

Christmas in Paris

http://tinyurl.com/cyhg3yy


(Our daughter MC is the photographer for all the photos here. H brought her camera, but forgot a battery charger so adapted my selfish method of just walking around looking at things and occasionally making a sketch. Bob used a video camera.)

I had never realized how festive the Paris Christmas season is until Kerouac's excellent photo essays. Such as, most recently: http://tinyurl.com/cxoj8lv

Besides the big light displays in central areas, neighborhoods have their own festive styles.

http://tinyurl.com/az5uhw3

The main tourist areas are thronged with all shapes, colors, and languages. Parents bring their children on holiday to enjoy the spectacle. Marchés de Noël spring up all around town, with booths selling vin chaud, waffles, trinkets and mementos. Christmas eve we took the Métro to Place dl Concorde and threaded through the crowds towards the Arc de Triomphe.


http://tinyurl.com/a8nu9q9

http://tinyurl.com/am48jf5

http://tinyurl.com/bprgy9q

I wasn't so wild about the holiday beer, but got a very nice paper cup full of vin chaude. Eyed raclette stands.

We veered north from CE towards Boul Hausmann to check out the window displays at the Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. What fun with the children there, noses against the glass; they loved the less commercial Printemps ones better.

http://tinyurl.com/bqvpwpt

http://tinyurl.com/cuzfo3d

This Santa's appeal for donations seemed to be based on belly, hat, beard, and general colorfulness.

Ann, that clip is from Mr. Bean's Holiday: he and the kid have lost their money and are busking so they can get to Cannes. (I belong to what must be the small subset of those who love Rowan A. but can't quite get into Downton A.) I did miss the Olympic ceremony. Will try to find on youtube. Thanks!

I love your daughter's pics. Is the jazz manouche coming soon?

I love the bookcase!! Can't wait to hear more!!!

Thank you, doula!

opaldog, part of the jazz manouche part: Bob was in heaven at the Cité de la Musique Django exhibit, and I liked it a lot, too. We used a two for one deal with out Eurostar ticket, even. Thank you for that tip.

Bob's in a jazz manouche band now, rhythm guitar, and can't get enough of it. Electric guitar offends his purist soul, so a couple of times we walked in and then out of a club based on that.

We all went up to Chope des Puces on Saturday, lucked into a table for four in the front room before the place started filling up. The music was great: two guitarists when I was there and another young guy starting to get out his instrument. By the time the waitress was able to get over to our table to get our order a couple crowded up against our table had been giving us all the "why don't you all get up and let us have your seats" look. It had been a rarely gorgeous sunny day, and MC wanted to get out and take photos of the market, so she and I surrendered out seats while Bob and H stayed.

Bob later realized one of the musicians was Ninine Garcia, a pretty big deal in those circles.

I love Ninine Garcia. He seems to be there every weekend. His brother Rocky was playing with him when we were there as well as Marcel Campion, the owner of the Christmas Village in Paris and the large Ferris Wheel, among many other things. He is a good jazz manouche guitarist and purchased Chopes des Puces a few years ago. Ninine's father Mondine was very well known. He passed away last year. He also played at Chopes. Go on You Tube to see lots about all of them. I purchased a CD at the Django exhibit of the Garcia family. I asked Ninine to play the song "La Bonne Vie" when we went. I wrote about that in my report. I couldn't remember any French and he didn't understand my english, but I managed to hum the song for him and he obliged me. He played it beautifully!

Paris will always be LOVE for me. Share the fun soon!

Opaldog, so that was Ninine! I didn't know enough to note his name when I read your post, and will reveal more of my ignorance here. I have always liked the music, but when you get past the Reinhardts' and Grappelli names you lose me.

Bob was in his blissful cloud several days there, going out again solo to La Chope des Puces and tracking down an apartment where Django had once lived, and then visiting a master guitar maker -- display featured at Cité de la Musique -- where he played his dream 7,000 euro instrument. The rest of us spent shoe leather on more general Parisian matters. I feel that my wifely duty extends just so far.

Limiting his chance of joining a jam was that Christmas and New Year's Day this year were Tuesdays, typically jam night. Also the man cold that he developed the 27th. Luckily he still had a blast, and the "poor little bunny" part really does help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EElqrgk4N0

Another helpful website: http://www.manflu.info/index.htm

Wonderful, Stokebailey! So glad that your husband was able to spend time enjoying the music he loves to play & listen to! What a memorable trip it must have been for him. I look forward to more about your time in Paris & London!

Enjoying your report so far! Thanks for posting, and look forward to more.

A super set of photos! Makes it all come alive. Thanks.

JR, 2010, Yanky, taconict: thank you for your kind encouragement.

Dancing and Miscellaneous Music in Paris:

Barrio Latino in the Bastille is the place for salsa dancing on Sunday evenings. MC became a regular during her semester nearby two years ago, and has wanted to go back ever since.

Our first evening in town we walked her there: Eiffel designed room full of serious latin dancers, bachata beat.
Big stern bouncer out front, and a velvet rope.

from internet
http://travelinhappiness.com/wp-cont.../09/barrio.jpg

The next Sunday both sisters went. H had been worried she might not get asked, then danced every dance. More leads than follows; one song ends and another begins. MC's favorite partner from 2010 saw her and said, "You came back to France!"

In Paris, music everywhere, in the streets and underground: LVIV Ukranian band at Chatelet as you walk from one line to another. Horns, strings, multiple part vocal harmony on Silent Night. Wonderful.

Most touching for me was a gorgeous black woman standing in Rue St.-Andre-des-Arts singing "Folie! Sempre Libera" from La Traviata, accompanied by boom box. Brought tears to my eyes. H said she seemed so vulnerable there in the street, besides her skill, beauty, and vocal power. Maybe that was it.

I loved the pictures. MC certainly has a good eye for seeing angles and opportunities. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks so much, irishface.

Here's one from the front room of La Chope des Puces, before it got too mobbed for photos:

http://tinyurl.com/a49vzte


Food and Markets in Paris:

http://tinyurl.com/ao2f5xr
Oysters are big during the holidays.

http://tinyurl.com/avhm85m
Ditto buchettes.

Our kitchen was compact, but well stocked with pots and pans. Four burner gas stovetop and microwave. Either the oven didn't work, or I could not unlock its secrets. I do now want a stovetop espresso maker like theirs.

The Marché Bastille/RIchard Lenoir is an easy walk from our apartment, and heaven for a cook. H and I got there early Thursday and Sunday. I chose the greengrocer with the longest queue, partly to give me time to observe and also to copy or remember the French terms. I was just behind a dear man with his wife's long list, so I saw how to ask for haricots verts and mache by the handful. Fishmongers, cheese stands, a creperie.

One morning I saw an American family with two young boys approach a baker's stand. The parents, to their credit, encouraged their ~ 8 yr old son to ask in French for pastry, and then to speak more loudly. The vendeuse, a good natured type, asked "laquelle?" When he looked perplexed, she repeated the question, clearly, twice, but without body language. Finally, prompted, everyone smiling, the exchange was completed.

Friday morning the girls and I took the bus up r.d. Turenne to the Belleville market.

http://tinyurl.com/bfwg69q

That's being out among the people. You push along the aisles between the stalls, past women in headscarves and old ones with walkers. Smells and sounds. Even cheaper produce than Bastille, so we filled our market bags with clementines and apples, then walked down to Père Lachaise and home.

We had some pleasant and not too pricey restaurant meals. Twice, after salsa at Barrio Latino because it's around the corner at 50 Boul de la Bastille, we had dinner at Les Associés. Great inventive salads (try the Lac des Cygnes or the Ivan le Terrible) , no frills, friendly waiter who remembered us the second time and ushered us to our "favorite" table.

Rendezvous des Amis in the Marais: great basic atmosphere, very good omelettes and soup.

MC's friend who spent a semester at the Sorbonne says the King Falafel Palace, a few doors east from L'As du Falafel on r.d. Rosiers, is arguably even better and far shorter queues. We got takeout and liked it a lot.

The evening after St-Ouen and climbing to Sacre-Coeur from the north, we ducked into La Crémaillère‎ in the Place du Tertre. I'd read a recommendation in some website, and I thought Bob would like the decor. He did. http://www.cremaillere1900.com/
Maybe a tad faux Parisian, but not crowded and we were surrounded by locals.

The best restaurant meal was at La Fée Verte, on r.d. la Roquette. http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-fée-verte-paris-2
MC had stayed around the corner two years ago, and it became her favorite bar/restaurant. I had a duck dish that was delicious, but would have been as happy with MC's long awaited vegetarian lasagne.

ooh, la place du tertre! DH stayed near there when he worked in Paris many, many years ago, and i would join him for weekends.

That's where we first ate oysters!

thanks for reviving the memories, Stoke!

La Feé Verte looks good. I'll have to put that on my list for the next Paris visit. Did you get to Atelier Charonne?

Great report AND photos!

Wonderful report, stokebailey.

I am bearing bad news, however. The latest edition of my monthly 18th arrondissement newspaper ("Le 18ème du Mois") informed me that Starbucks has bought one of the locations on Place du Tertre and will be opening there next spring.

I am sorry to hear that Starbucks is taking over in Paris. I don't care for their product and am sorry to see Parisians carrying the "to go" cups all over Paris.

Fun, Ann. Oysters, love, and Place du Tertre.

Thank you, Cathinjoe!

Opaldog, at Atelier Charonne I heard what I thought was some very nice jazz -- for one song -- before Bob's expression told me he didn't love it. As we left he said he didn't like the singer's voice. It wasn't manouche night anyway, just a peek while in the neighborhood. (I sometimes tell myself that Mozart was hard to please too, fellow-musican-wise.) Bob and H went back another time and enjoyed it a lot, and he went alone for the tail end of a Sunday night jam that ended earlier than he'd hoped. This might have been the time he got to hear a bit of Django's grandson I like the atmosphere there.

Thank you, kerouac, and drat! Starbucks the UK -- and no doubt elsewhere -- tax evader? In Place du Tertre? Let's hope they're overextended and will draw back soon.