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Lessons learned from overzealous planning...and our final itinerary!
After initiating several threads over the past few months, each of which led to a wonderful idea for an itinerary, I am happy to say that my mother and I have arrived at the perfect itinerary for our May 2016 trip. I am also somewhat chagrined to say that we abandoned several great itineraries only to arrive full circle at our original plan, which is to visit both Cornwall and Scotland. I'll post our revised (and final) itinerary in a moment.
So, what have I learned from months of meticulous planning, only to end up where I began? 1) Follow your heart of hearts in deciding where to go - or in this case, my mother's heart of hearts. After all of my proposals for Cornwall only, Scotland only, Scotland and N. England, she finally admitted that she REALLY wanted to go to Scotland and Cornwall. And since this might be the last time we visit the UK together, my simple task is to make it happen. 2) Seek out and take heed of the advice of locals and more seasoned travelers, even if you don't use it all. All of my queries on this and other sites have given me many wonderful ideas and much practical information, not to mention hours of contented reading. I now have several fantastic itineraries for future trips. 3) Don't book accommodation until you are pretty darn sure of your plan :-). Thank goodness I learned this one on our last trip, and don't anticipate any cancellations for this trip unless dictated by unforeseen events. 4) And the synthesis of the above - Dream relentlessly, listen thoughtfully, and plan carefully - then do what it is you really want to do! For anyone still reading, in case you're wondering, here is what we decided to do. It wouldn't be perfect for everyone, but for us it's simple, hits the highlights, and gives us two cozy home bases for most of it. Arrive 13 May in Edinburgh, staying 1 week in this perfectly located apartment: http://annehouse.co.uk/ (we're renting the 1 bedroom Royal Mile apartment). 13-20 May - Spend two days on Edinburgh sightseeing, including the Castle, Palace of Holyrood and Royal Yacht Britannia, then take 2-3 Rabbie's day tours (St. Andrew's, W. Highlands and Borders) and possibly train to York for a day to visit the Minster, walk the Shambles and old city, and have tea. 20 May - Travel Day: Fly to Exeter or Newquay (Exeter flights appear to have the best arrival time, but would involve a longer drive); pick up hire car and drive to our cottage in Marazion: http://www.aspects-holidays.co.uk/co...zion/p/gwelfor 20-27 May - absolutely no set schedule. Just enjoy W. Cornwall and do whatever we feel like! 27 May - Turn in car at Penzance train station (I've already checked into this), train to Exeter (honestly, this would be more a more logical stop after our flight from Edinburgh, but our cottage dates didn't work out that way) - spend one night at Abode Exeter (http://www.abodeexeter.co.uk/), visit the Cathedral. 28 May - Train to Newbury; taxi to Carnarvon Arms (next door to Highclere Castle - http://thecarnarvonarmshotel.com) for 2 nights. 29 May - Visit Highclere Castle (date to purchase tickets is in red on my calendar!). 30 May - Private driver taking us to Heathrow for outbound flight. Much of this is already booked, so I'm not looking for itinerary suggestions (for a change ;-) ), but I certainly welcome any tips/feedback on specific destinations, such as Cornwall (looking forward to a few more chats with AnnHig :-) ) and Edinburgh. Thanks to all who've replied to earlier posts. Every response has mattered. |
Hurray! Scotland and Cornwall it is. how lovely for you and your mum; she must be thrilled.
Down to practicalities: what time do the flights arrive in Newquay? - I'd say that it's about an hour from Newquay to Marazion, whereas it's close on 2 from Exeter. but if it's a late arrival, that time of year the days are pretty long so that might be a help. Obvious [to me!] places to visit from Marazion are St Michael's Mount and Trengwainton Gardens [both National Trust] Penzance, for its gardens and just lovely atmosphere Land's End [for the scenery not the "entertainment"], St Ives, the Minack theatre [look out for the schedule early in Jan if you are interested in getting tickets for a performance, otherwise just go for an afternoon to enjoy looking round and seeing the gardens] Cape Cornwall, St just and the industrial scenery around Botallack [which may seem familiar if you watch Poldark] Porthleven [a gorgeous harbour with spectacular storms] Newlyn and Mousehole - typical fishing ports. How's that for starters? |
Regarding accommodations, unless one books non-refundable rooms, there are upsides and no downsides with refundable bookings. Many times, I have tentatively booked acceptable refundable rooms as place holders while working on itineraries only to find that when I came back, there were nothing else and ended up sticking with the tentative booking. This is especially true in case I travel with someone else where there can be several months between we have a rough outline and the final itinerary at which time there were nothing acceptable left at target price range.
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Great plan -- and a LOT simpler than where your plan <i>was</i> evolving to :)
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Hello, Ann - Yes, she's thrilled, as am I! Right now, Flybe is only showing flights through March, but if that schedule holds for May, flying into Exeter looks much better, with a direct flight that arrives around 11:45 am. Flights into Newquay involve one change and arrive much later in the afternoon - and are more expensive, to boot - so currently the plan is to fly into Exeter. My tidy brain would really prefer to spend the night in Exeter before driving to Marazion, then drop the car and train all the way to Newbury, but accommodation dates just didn't work that way. No matter. And anyway, I believe you've just set out a great itinerary for our week in Cornwall! :-)
Greg - Good point, and one to take into consideration when you're fussy about lodging (which I am). I've never lost money on cancelling a booking, but I've had to cancel an entire trip's worth of bookings a couple of times! Janis - Yes, it is, isn't it? Thanks for the vote of support. :-) |
flying into Exeter looks much better, with a direct flight that arrives around 11:45 am. Flights into Newquay involve one change and arrive much later in the afternoon - and are more expensive, to boot - so currently the plan is to fly into Exeter.>>
if those are the choices, I definitely agree with you. and you would then get the chance to drive across to top of Dartmoor, with the chance to drop in for linch at one of my favourite places, the Tors Inn at Belstone: http://www.thetors.co.uk it's not much to look at, but the welcome is warm, the food is good, the beer/cider great, and the view out the back of the pub is fantastic. it's about a 2 miles drive off the A30 - and a whole different world to the hustle and bustle of the main road. |
Hmmm - links to Carnarvon Arms and Abode Exeter didn't work for me. In case anyone cares to check them out, let's try again:
http://thecarnarvonarmshotel.com/ http://www.abodeexeter.co.uk/ |
Oh, Ann - that would be a perfect stop for lunch. It looks to be about 35-40 minutes from Exeter airport - the perfect distance to catch our breath and re-fuel (food-wise) before driving to our cottage.
Unless there is a dramatic shift in flights posted for May, we'll definitely fly into Exeter. It looks much simpler in spite of the extra drive time. And it would give us that opportunity to see a bit of scenery on the drive. I thought the drive from Exeter airport looked pretty straightforward, too - a good way to reacquaint myself with left-handed driving. |
Save for a bit of a strange loop to get from the road from the airport onto the end of the motorway/A30 [which may not be so bad going west as it is going east] it is indeed quite a gentle re-introduction to left handed driving and once you're on the A30 it's easy peasy.
Abode Exeter aka the Royal Clarence is in the best position in Exeter, and of course has the advantage of the Michael Caines kitchen. I haven't eaten there for a while but I would definitely suggest booking there for dinner - the table-d'hote looks a steal at £17.50 pp. for 2 courses. [don't over-eat at the Tors on the way down!] The only down side is the parking - you can pull up outside to unload but then you have to move the car to a car park I think - I would check about this if I were you as finding your way to the off-loading place isn't easy. |
If you're a fan of the Doc Martin series on PBS, you could visit Port Isaac, the Cornish town where it is filmed.
http://www.portisaac-online.co.uk/ |
Just wanting to bring up your Highclere visit, are you certain they are open on the 29th? I know they have very limited opening dates, the website says "each of the May bank holidays" - which would be the 30th? I, of course, do not know if that means they are open for the entire weekend of the bank holiday, or if they truly mean just the Monday.
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Bbgt, you will love your trip. My sister, daughter, and I did a trip a little similar last fall to London, York, Edinburgh with day trips, and Cornwall. If you are interested in looking at it, I did a trip report called Five-Star Trip on a Three-Star Budget.
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Brilliant. If there's anything you'd like specific input on in Scotland, let me/us know
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I didn't get a chance to read all of these lovely replies until this morning - thanks to all!
Ann - We will actually be staying in Exeter after Cornwall, having taken the train from Penzance, so parking won't be a concern. (That was the odd little out-of-sequence bit in our itinerary due to the cottage dates being Fri-Fri.. means we can't dilly dally in Exeter before driving to our cottage) It does look like a fantastic location, especially with only one night there. And we will be sure to try out Michael Caine's. Happy Tourist - My mom would be a very "happy tourist" if she gets to visit Port Isaac! I'm a bit concerned that I've read how steep the village streets are and that parking is rather tight. Mom's not a great hill walker - but if she's determined, she sometimes surprises me! I know she want to visit PI, though. txgirlinbda - Thanks for the concern on Highclere. I've already checked, and they are indeed open that Sun/Mon. I just have to be diligent in watching the website so I can secure tickets! Carolyn - I do recall seeing your trip report, but will re-read it today! Thank you :-) Sheila - Thank you so much. I will take you up on your offer of input, I'm sure. I do wish we had more time in Scotland, and I'd love to do a driving tour there someday, but for this trip a home base in Edinburgh with day trips just seemed to fit the bill. My mom and I are so excited - only 8 months!! :-) |
Ann - We will actually be staying in Exeter after Cornwall, having taken the train from Penzance, so parking won't be a concern.>>
of course, I should have been able to work that out. In which case you can enjoy a nice lunch at the Tors - they usually have a very good selection of home cooked dishes which might be a good choice on your first day of self-catering so you won't feel the need to do too much shopping and can have a snack or something light for supper. |
No worries, Ann. That bit of our itinerary is a little confusing. Your suggestion to have a good meal at the Tors is perfect, and would be a welcome break in our day. I agree that on our first evening in Marazion we'd not want to do a big shopping trip.
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I agree that on our first evening in Marazion we'd not want to do a big shopping trip>>
you'd be lucky to be able to do so! Marazion is well furnished with restaurants but lacks actual useful shops. for that, you need to go to Penzance, which if anything has too many, supermarkets at any rate. You will find no less than three on the road into PZ - a Morrisons, a Sainsbury's [which would be my choice of the three] and then Tesco. The good news is that they vie with each other to cut prices especially petrol so make sure that you sus out who is offering the best prices! however there are some proper shops in PZ, both food and otherwise - on the quay, opposite the giant car park you will find a good fishmongers, and up in town, bakers and at the top of Chapel Street [which is a real joy to explore] a good butcher. Sadly the greengrocer that used to be nearby has closed down, but if you wander up the pedestrian street called "Causeway head" just opposite the beautifully domed building at the top of Market Jew Street you will find a greengrocer there as well as a lot of other interesting shops and the odd cafe. The building with the dome was Bolitho's Bank [now Lloyds] and was founded by the area's premier mining family - they clearly wanted everyone to know who was in charge! on a nice day, the little Georgian streets south of that area are interesting [follow the sings to the Library] and also the Penlee Gallery with its wonderful collection of Newlyn School paintings and a great cafe, all set in the lovely garden. PZ is highly recommended for a day's mooching about! |
Thank you, Ann - I really appreciate that information. I was wondering where to shop, and hadn't got around to asking the question! We'll probably be picking up our cottage keys in Hayle (where Aspects Holidays has an office, although I'm not sure of the details yet). Would there be shops in Hayle where we could get just a few supplies for that evening?
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BBgt - just off the big roundabout at the southern end of the dual carriageway part of the A30, there is a Marks and Spencer's with a food hall - you turn left at the island and its the 2nd exit, and go round the back of a little shopping mall I suppose you would call it to get to the parking. Boots too if you needed one.
the exit for Hayle is the 4th exit and just there on the right is a Lidl - one of the german "pile it high, sell it cheap" discount supermarkets. Chalk and cheese - you take your choice. You ar probably guessing that I would suggest M&S! Then you just drive down into Hayle - which is essentially one very long street - and find your agent's office. |
Perfect - thank you! I'm printing this to take with us. You've been a tremendous help, Ann - I really appreciate it.
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No advice from me, but I just wanted to say it sounds like a great trip. I love that you are not micromanaging it all, and will have time to just be.
I hope you both have a wonderful time. |
Thank you, hetismij2. We really love the idea of having a home base and flexibility. Our time in Edinburgh will be more structured, since we are taking a couple of day tours, but other than that, we plan to do whatever we feel inspired to do each day. And our short time in Exeter and Newbury will be a nice stopover and end point, respectively. We're very much looking forward to "just being"!
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I just re-read Carolyn's trip report, and realized we have indeed come full circle. It was in reading her report that I first got the idea of flying into Exeter!
Wonderful report, Carolyn, and so many similarities to the places we plan to visit. It sounds as though you had a lovely trip with your daughter and sister. I look forward to making wonderful memories with my mother. We've got quite a collection of them so far. :-) |
no probs, BBgt, glad to help.
[if I have - you'll have to wait to find out, won't you?] |
I find that the over-planning just gets me more excited for the trip. The final trip rarely resembles what I had in my mind other than maybe the order of destinations if more than one town is involved.
This year I did a few "zero planning, just show up" and a few where I did a lot of reading. I was busy for both trips - never ran out of things to do. I didn't look things up afterwards, either, so I can't say I regretted the things I did not do... |
Yes, Ann, I guess we'll find out! I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions, and I'm quite sure your comments will prove to be helpful.
Ah, Flygirl - how well I relate to your first statement. I love the planning stage, although I drive myself mad sometimes with all the possibilities. It's always interesting to me to see what finally shakes out. Good plan on your part to not look things up afterward - no regrets! |
If you go through Dartmoor there is a great hotel right in the middle you might enjoy stopping at...The Two Bridges Hotel. The rooms are lovely and some are named after famous guests ie Vivien Leigh supposedly stopped here when filming Rebecca!
Dartmoor Prison is also close and then it is an easy drive down into Cornwall. Fowey is worth a visit and Trebah Garden is a favourite. Penzance is not what you expect now and Lands End is just a tourist trap but Sennen Cove is lovely and then keep driving through St Just and Zennor (stop at the church to see The Mermaid's Chair) then on towards St Ives, great scenery! If you go to Porthleven have lunch or dinner at the Ship Inn....wonderful fish pie! |
Thanks for the tips, Cyansiam. I'm not sure how much time we'll have on our drive through/past Dartmoor, but I'll keep those things in mind. I definitely plan on doing the drive you mention between Sennen Cove and St. Ives, and thanks for the mention of the Mermaid's Chair. I'd read about it somewhere but had forgotten about it. Sounds like something we'd enjoy!
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mmm - I'm not sure that I'd be recommending a visit to Dartmoor Prison to the OP and her mum, Cyansiam - it's in what always seems to me to be the most gloomy part of Dartmoor and Princetown is a singularly unattractive village and of course they don't do guided tours of the prison - it's strictly "residents only".
There is a small private museum nearby which is moderately interesting but not worth taking a detour for. I do agree about the Two Bridges - I had the best coleslaw I've ever tasted there recently - and though the hotel would make an excellent lunch stop, it is rather out of the OP's way. <<Penzance is not what you expect now>> Trouble is, the OP doesn't know what you would expect of PZ, now or at any other time. You'll have gathered from the above that I'm rather a fan of PZ, having been there myriad times in the last 18 years, i wonder why [and when] you found it disappointing. Undoubtedly Land's End is a tourist trap but our last lot of german visitors just loved it, so it might be worth the OP and her mum having a look but you are absolutely right about the coast north of there - all the way up to the Gurnard's Head [great pub] and beyond. as for Porthleven, the Ship is good but there are a load of other restaurants there too now - well worth sussing out I would have thought. |
I agree with Ann that the Two Bridges is probably out of our way for an afternoon drive to our cottage, but it does sound nice. We'll most likely stop at the Tors for lunch, then be on our way so we can arrive at our cottage by late afternoon/early evening.
Mom and I will probably stop at Land's End just to see it, and do our best to ignore the tourist trap. We both thought that Cape Cornwall sounded much nicer for a quiet stop, but if we're going all that way, we probably ought to at least see Land's End! Penzance is pretty much a given - Besides being a good grocery stop, we want to visit the gardens (Morab, I believe, and Trengwainton), and just check out the town. The scenic drive sounds perfect - just our thing. Mom and I both love dramatic coastal scenery, which I understand Cornwall supplies in spades :-). |
I needed to read this as I am in the middle of planning now! What a wonderful revelation. Enjoy your trip...
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Thank you, hworth1976, and happy planning! It is a large part of the fun of travelling, isn't it?
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hworth - please feel free to ask me anything you like about Cornwall - I love "selling it" to prospective visitors.
And having once owned a house in North Devon, I know quite a lot about that little visited [at least on Fodors] part of the world too. |
We go to Cornwall every time we go back home as Jon lived in Porthleven for 10 years so we always stay there and obviously he knows Cornwall extremely well to the point where it is difficult to find anything he has not been too!! I wish I could explain where a lot of the unusual places are for you! This is one that may fit in for you.... on the road from St Just to St Ives you will pass an old tin mine ruin on the left, we always stop there and walk down to the cliffs for a picnic, great location!
Over the years places have changed and I suppose it depends on what you are looking for but we tend to class Penzance as more like the majority of towns in the rest of the UK, same shops, same look etc so it does not appeal to us as much. Re Dartmoor prison...as it is on the way out from Two Bridges I thought it is worth a look because it is so bleak, always reminds me of Hound of the Baskervilles.....the prison museum is just ok as you said Annhig, if you are not going that way then no it is not worth the detour. I found Bodmin Jail more interesting especially the ruined section...very eerie and sad! |
We'll look for that tin mine ruin, Cyansiam. Since you mentioned it, I loved Hound of the Baskervilles - read it several times as a kid. I'm sure if we had more time for that leg of the trip I'd be seeking out atmospheric places like those in the book. Hopefully this won't be my last visit to Cornwall, so perhaps someday I'll drive out and spend more time exploring on the way!
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I found Bodmin Jail more interesting especially the ruined section...very eerie and sad!>>
When my kids were at school, Bodmin Jail was a regular outing for Years 7-8, [12-13 year olds] after they had studied the Ballard of Charlotte Dymond: http://www.cornwalls.co.uk/myths-leg...tte-dymond.htm they are also taken to the shire Hall to take part in a reconstruction of the trial: http://www.cornwalls.co.uk/attractio...experience.htm Definitely one of the more unusual places to go to in Cornwall! |
http://greatscenicrailways.co.uk/lin...ives-bay-line/
I'm going to come in with my usual suggestion :) especially if your Mother doesn't cope well with hills. The walk back up to the car park can be a challenge. |
good point alya. but the walk up the hill back to the station can be hard too.
the alternative is to park in the town but the ones closer to the centre [with less walking up and down required] fill up very quickly. |
Fascinating story, Ann, and very sad. Such an evocative landscape - I wish we had more time to explore.
Thank you for that link, alya. I would love to take the train to St. Ives, but now I'm a bit concerned about the hill back to the station. Mom can manage hills very slowly, but is very long? (Long being subjective, of course) |
you could always get a cab back to the station of course.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?clie...OsGq8weonr_wBA you could even arrange in advance for one to be available at a certain time to connect with the time a train was due to depart! |
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