Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   Europe (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)
-   -   LE LANGHE AND TURIN: A WEEK IN THE LAND OF BAROLO, BAGNA CAUDA AND BICERIN (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/le-langhe-and-turin-a-week-in-the-land-of-barolo-bagna-cauda-and-bicerin-781768/)

mohan May 14th, 2009 09:14 AM

what happened? did i hit something? it should be s.

mohan May 14th, 2009 09:21 AM

:

mohan May 14th, 2009 09:26 AM

: and s(without space and the and)=face.
sorry for being so dense.

drbb May 14th, 2009 09:29 AM

mohan-- The URL is http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rovides-it.cfm

The poster was ojander and the date of the original post was May 6. Barcelona was misspelled in the title so you couldn't have found it by searching.

Tim - tell me why you like Vecchio Tre Stelle and Antica Torre please.

ekscrunchy May 14th, 2009 09:34 AM

Wait--now I am confused! Mohan did you want to ask me something? I am meaning to get back to this but am a little more frazzled than usual at the moment and we are actually leaving for London on Saturday (only for 3 days). I hope to post more later today!

mohan May 14th, 2009 10:07 AM

Thanks drbb.

Eks: you answered my question already. You asked me where i am going in S.E. Asia.

"ekscrunchy on May 11, 09 at 01:20 PM
Mohan: The only comprehensive guidebook in English that I have seen is the excellent Cadogan ITALIAN RIVIERA AND PIEDMONT. The SlowFood book is good, but I did not bring mine with me; (Roberta has a copy of this in the house, Drbb). Where are you going in SE Asia?"

ekscrunchy May 14th, 2009 10:26 AM

Mohan you are too kind! My deepest thanks for those comments. I am also planning SE Asia for next winter (you may have seen my incessant questioning threads already!) The mention of Mt Bromo brings up many happy memories from trips long ago. I LOVED Indonesia and hope to be fortunate enough to return someday. I know what you mean about travel partners being non-commital, by the way!

Ok..here is a little more:




On our second visit to Profumo di Vino in Treiso, we were warmly welcomed by both Memo, at the front of the house, and Cameron, the chef, who hails from Scotland but who was raised in Colorado.

Our antipasti had been so memorable a few days before that we repeated them:

Veal meatballs with a foie gras and espresso mustard (7 euro) My partner would rate this among the favorite dishes of the trip.

“Uova in pasta,” ravioli of egg yolk bathed in brown butter and scattered with roasted asparagus tips (7 euro). Heaven! With this, I drank a glass of the local Roero Arnais white

My partner chose, again, the Risotto Carbonara, with speck, Grana Padano, egg yolk, and a heavy dose of black pepper (12 euro). I will add here that this superb risotto prompted me to try my hand at a similar dish last week, with only middling results.

I skipped a primi and ordered, instead, the pan roasted baby lamb chops with a light Marsala sauce (18 euro) with a glass of red (I cannot find my notes--problem with dallying so long before completing trip report)

And this time, we opted for dessert and were very, very pleased that we did..the Amaretto tortino with walnut cream and gianduja chocolate (6 euro) was even richer and more luscious than it sounds! Superlative!

With coffee, water, and complimentary cookies and chocolates,
The final tally was a reasonable 62 euro.

The drive back to Macarini took only a few minutes.

The next morning, we awoke AGAIN to pounding rain. After a light breakfast (cooked dishes are on offer but we did not partake) at the agriturismo (I will never hear the name Marcarini again without remembering my blunder about missing the appointment at the winery!) we set off, armed with my ViaMichelin directions, for Turin, where we had booked two nights at the Grand Hotel Sitea.

mohan May 14th, 2009 01:07 PM

The veal meatballs with foie gras sounds yummy.

Anything baths in brown butter will be delicious.

On another note: there are lots of flights connecting BKK to Bali. Air Asia costs about $25 or less.

ekscrunchy May 14th, 2009 01:41 PM

You are kidding! $25!!!!??????

mohan May 14th, 2009 02:43 PM

My two friends took out a six month rental in BKK two years ago, used that as a base to travel S.E.Asia, took many flights for five bucks. There are several discussions on Air Asia in the thailand forum.

ekscrunchy May 14th, 2009 03:34 PM

Thank you! That 6-month rental would be my dream!

drbb May 15th, 2009 05:27 AM

It's a solid recommendation for Profumo de Vino to have gone back twice. It all sounds fantastic!

Hope you are able to get in another post today before your trip.

Have a great time in London!

zeppole May 15th, 2009 09:43 AM

If I hear any more about wine and anchovies and salt, I'll let you know.


Another vote for the Cadogan guide to Piemonte.

Pepeyo May 15th, 2009 10:02 AM

Based on your fantastic trip, I think you might enjoy reading this book:

Passion on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy.

It was phenomenal -

ekscrunchy May 15th, 2009 10:52 AM

Yes, I read this and enjoyed it. A few years ago, we were having dinner at the only restaurant open in Montepulciano that January Sunday and Sergio was at the next table. He has a wonderful shop here in NYC.

I also meant to mention that while we were staying at La Favorita, we became chatty with another couple who were the only other guests for part of our stay. He owns a wine shop in Stowe, Vermont and also writes a newsletter about the ones he tastes. I wanted to link the information but, not surprisingly, I have misplaced his card. He is so passionate about Italian wine that I am sure the newsletter would be interesting. He ships all over the US, too.

ekscrunchy May 15th, 2009 11:03 AM

Well, I managed to dump out all my euro and pound coins, everything rolling all over the place--under bed, etc, and still did not find the card, but here is the website for the shop owned by Ed Schwarz who we met at La Favorita; he will ship wine within the US. He and his wife were traveling through the area visiting wineries. Unlike yours truly, they probably did not stand up any winemakers by missing an appointment:




http://www.finewinecellars.us/

montysc May 15th, 2009 11:36 AM

Glad to hear you had a great time in Peemonte - Roberta is such an awesome hostess and now you can see why Alba and the Langhe area is our favorite place to stay in that region. I am glad you got to try Osterie del Vignaiolo, as it was one of our best meals in Italy...

ekscrunchy May 15th, 2009 01:41 PM

Hi Monty! I am glad that you checked in so I can thank you for all of the help you gave me.
Yes, I loved that restaurant and wish that I had had time to return to sample more dishes!

I will be back soon with more--I may have to take a break for a few days..

JulieVikmanis May 18th, 2009 01:00 PM

Hi, ecks, hope you'll be back here soon. This has been such a useful report. Questions:

I'm still obsessing over our hotel for a 5 night stay in the Alba area. We are booked at La Coste Albertina in Pollenzo but I'm not sure of how "lively" the small city is. It's a world heritage site, but mostly because of it's Roman connections which sound kind of "dead" to me. Also while pictures look charming furnishings are more on the antique side than I prefer.

I love the look of the furnishings and views at Marcarini, but DH is concerned about it being "out in the sticks" with nothing around but vines. What is the nearest town and is it "alive", i.e. have a bar, grocery, church, etc? Did you experience any problems returning at night from your dinner in Neive? Do you think 5 days in the quiet of Marcarini would get to be too quiet?

I've found a second place near Marcarini, Albergo Castiglione, in the small town of Castiglione Tinella with 848 residents. Any chance you went through the town or saw the Albergo? It may or may not be a bit further from Alba, et. al than Marcarini and Pollenzo, but it may be a nice combination of the two. Any info/thoughts/guidance? Thanks.

ekscrunchy May 19th, 2009 07:31 AM

Hi Julie--I am coming home tomorrow so will be back to answer your questions in 2 days at most!!


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:57 PM.