Laura and Steve's Spanish Adventure
 

GETTING THERE IS HALF THE FUN?

Well I thought I would start this and write as we go so I don't forget details. We started off well enough, driving form our home in the four corners to Albuquerque (great lunch at El Bruno's in Cuba, but that is for another forum), checked into the doubletree and enjoyed a great Indian dinner with our son and his girlfriend and her father. Hotel was so so, but who cares - we're off to Spain, right? or so we thought. Got to the airport in plenty of time, through security like a breeze, boarded on time, and then the fun began. There was a "hold" on flights into and out of Dallas where our connecting flight to Madrid was (no problem I thought, we left almost 3 hours changeover), left 20 minutes late, but when we got to Dallas we circled and circled and circled, until the gas ran low and they had to take us to San Antonio where they let us off the plane (American airlines by the way) and basically said good luck. Almost everyone had connections they'd missed - we all got in line, the agents were overwhelmed, and handling (really) one person an hour. Eventually they rebooked us on something I knew wasn't going to work, but we hadn't eaten all day and I was too tired to argue so we went to another airport Doubletree, ate some pretty bad food and then got creative. Steve got on the phone with limo companies, I got on the phone with the airline and was able to book something out of Houston through Heathrow, we got picked up the next morning and were able to rest in the car, made it to Houston with time to spare, train to Heathrow was only 1 hour late on British Airways (fantastic flight - best overseas flight ever), made our connection and landed in Madrid today basically on time. So we only missed one day of vacation -c'est la vie.

we are staying at the Hotel Catalonia Atocha (luckily I remembered last night to call them and let them know we would miss our first night). The room is large and comfy and the staff has been very nice. We found coffee and tapas at a place around the corner (the waiter was grumpy, I think he didn't really want people yet but the food was good and better than airport food for sure). Now we are resting so we can keep the dinner reservation we made a week ago. Tomorrow we will jettison the plan to go to Toledo and stick with the Prado and other museums as it will be our only true day in Madrid. Guess we shall have to plan to return another time to see what we missed. More later.

Enjoying reading your report. Boy! You handle things well! Hope the rest of your trip is perfect.

Thanks Sassafrass
DAY ONE IN SPAIN; MUSEUMS AND A BLOWN KNEE

So last night we ate at a restaurant we had chosen whilst still at home: Montes de Galicia - it was a ways from the hotel, understated elegance, staff falling all over themselves to make it right for us. The appetizer of foie gras was one of the best I've ever had - practically licked the plate. My husband had Iberian pork with mojo sauce which was good - I ordered Monkfish but I think it was a mistranslation -not like any monkfish I've ever seen. I didn't like it much and the waiter could tell - he asked and I said it was fine, but he persisted and I said mas o menos and he immediately whisked it away and said he would bring another piece in three minutes and he did - much more tender - of course then I felt like I had to eat it all or hurt his feelings! they kept plying us with dessert and drinks and we were exhausted and wanted to go back to the hotel to collapse, but didn't want to be impolite.

funny taxi story - the driver said he loved America, wants to visit Alabama. We were surprised - turns out his favorite song is Sweet Home Alabama- I hope he makes it some day.

I'll reiterate my praise for the hotel Catalonia Atocha - best shower we've ever had in a hotel room (we decided we want one for our house!) and discovered the location is within walking distance of the art museums (I suspected it would be but wasn't sure).

Breakfast this morning was the wonderful European buffets - I do love European breakfasts!

Today we decided to stick with museums since it will be our only full day in Madrid do to the airplane mix up. sadly we had to give up on Toledo but it didn't make sense to be in Madrid and not see any of Madrid (: We followed advice from fodors friends and got the arte walk pass. We started with the Reina Sofia but sadly didn't realize that we had to get the timed ticket for the Guernica exhibit at the Prado first, so missed that, but really enjoyed the rest of it. We then walked to the Prado and went straight to the cafe. Had a wonderful lunch (large salad for me and paella for Steve). We focused mostly on Goya, Valesquez and Zuberin who is a new discovery for us. On the way to see the cloister we found a temporary exhibit of a collection of Spanish object de arte and paintings etc by an American collector that was phenomenal, including a map of the world by Amerigo Vespucci's nephew that was awesome, and illustrated manuscripts from the 15th century. Truly wonderful. (ok a lot of superlatives there). The only cloud on the day is that I blew out my knee a few days before we left (ironically trying to get in shape for the trip) and thus had to walk slowly and it limited how much we could do. Hoping if I don't overdo it it will heal as the trip progresses.

We're going to venture out for tapas tonight - then on to Cordoba tomorrow.

I'm happy that my Spanish seems to be holding up, although really struck by the differences in pronunciation between what I am used to in the American Southwest and how it is spoken here. I'd been warned but guess I hadn't realized just how different it would be.

Enjoying your report. Hope your knee is getting better.

Enjoying your report. We will be in Madrid & Andalucia in Sept. I am traveling in china right now with a bad leg due to arthritis. It's not fun.

Oh Karen - I feel you. I hope your leg feels better soon.

DAY TWO - THE TRAIN TO CORDOBA

We had intended to have tapas for dinner last night - discovered that our hotel was also very close to the Bario de las Letras, so wandered about a bit, but somehow wandered into a little restaurant instead - on the Plaza Anna - called Ginger. Service was very good, food was quite nice. I had chicken and cous cous, Steve had veal rolls. It was low stress if tourist-laden, and that was what we needed.

This morning we took a cab to Atocha Renfre - some colorful cabby arguments included - got there 45 minutes in advance. Other than some difficulty lifting our suitcases the whole thing was easy as pie - five minutes through security, train platform and cars easily marked.

The journey of 1 45 minutes was lovely - gently rolling hills studded with farmhouses, some quite old gave way eventually to more dramatic hills and trees - think I even saw a castle in the distance but who knows - I could be hallucinating.

We are staying at Hospes Palacio de Baillo - we were welcomed like royalty, upgraded to a suite (we have our own private courtyard!). The room is lovely but the grounds even more so. The building dates from 1571 and has beautiful courtyards with orange trees and bouganvilla and fountains. There is an old roman bath on the grounds and a lovely pool surrounded by gardens. Except for swimming in the Aegean I don't think I've ever swum anywhere so beautiful.

As our room wasn't ready yet we wandered into town - finally had our first tapas (eggplant drizzeled in honey and pork cheeks), then walked down to the river and went to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos - sort of mind blowing to walk where Isabella and Ferdinand walked (more thoughts on these two tomorrow) - the gardens were absolutely lovely as promised - and there was no line to get in at all, at all.

However it was much hotter than Madrid, and even though we cooled down with cafe frio by the time we got back to the hotel (included ten minutes of getting lost), we were dripping.

now we are post swim, relaxed and cool, and planning to eat here tonight. I think that is about it for today.

Enjoying your report. Thank you! Going to Spain for the first time next year.

Do you know what the temps are in Fahrenheit for Madrid and Córdoba? We will be there mid September through Oct 3. I hope we will have cooler temps. Glad to know finding the train was easy. We will be taking train from Madrid to Córdoba, as well.

Karen, Madrid was lovely, mid 80's, Cordoba is very hot, more like mid 90's

Bookmarking!

Would love to visit Cordoba ��
Thanks for your report.

@KarenWoo, you can look at historical temperatures in F or C on Wunderground. I see last September there was a heat wave...
https://www.wunderground.com/history...eqdb.wmo=08223

Laura, enjoying your trip report. Thanks for keeping us up to date. Hope that bum knee is healing.

Quiltingmama, thanks for the link. Average Madrid temps should be high 70's when we are there mid-September. Hopefully, no heat wave. I also like to hear from travelers personal experiences regarding weather, too. I tried looking up Córdoba but the link wouldn't open. I am traveling in China right now, and my iPad has been slow here. Will try again when we get home.

KarenWoo, just google 'wunderground weather cordoba spain'. from there you can look at 'calendar' and choose months and years. Cordoba will be warmer than Madrid.

DAYS 3,4,5 AND 6: LOVELY CORDOBA AND ON THE ROAD TO SIERRA DE ARANCENA

So the first night in Cordoba we ate at the hotel (can't remember the name of the restaurant but it is the one at the Hospes Palacio de Baillo. ) Sort of split review - the food was maybe the best to date - a fusion of Spanish and Asian, we had gyoza and I had a wonderful lamb dish - my husband had suckling pig. But the service was oddly lackadaisicle even though they did everything right - their hearts weren't into it and we had to nudge them each step of the dinner. There was a choir singing in the courtyard - they were a motley crew and it took us a while to figure out that it was a fundraiser for cancer research. They sang beautifully and with much spirit - but it did make it a bit hard to converse.

After another wonderful breakfast the next morning we set out to explore. We visited the Mezquita/Cathedral and as many others have noted it is awe inspiring (imagine 30,000 people praying in the main hall) and quite beautiful. We then wandered until we found the synagoga and the museum across from it (see my other post on confronting the pain of history). I found the museum both well done and incredibly moving - probably the highlight of our visit.

We then set off to find lunch. Mostly we were looking for airconditioning as it was incredibly hot, but somehow stumbled onto one of Cordova's premier restaurants I can't seem to find the name right now but I will look and add it later. We ended up having a much more elegant lunch than intended. My husband had sweetbreads and I had the cold tomato cream soup and a pate and goat cheese dish that was incredible. After the obligatory walk across the Roman bridge we returned to the hotel drenched in sweat and jumped into the pool.

A word about the hotel - out of five stars I would give it six. It was perfect in every way. The pool was like swimming in a sultan's garden - just perfect. That night we were too tired to get clever with dinner - wandered down to La Pistou for tapas. Have to admit I wasn't all that thrilled - it all ended up being to fried and heavy for me. Part of the challenge for us is that while I know the basic food words in Spanish, many of the names of the dishes are - well foreign - to me (: so we are often guessing as to what we are ordering.

Continued from above:

The next morning we checked out of the hotel and picked up our rental car at the bus station. I was most pleased with myself for being able to handle all the negotiations in Spanish. I am usually fearful of driving in unknown places until I get the lay of the land, but all went quite well (Steve drives, I navigate). The road to Seville was gorgeous with huge fields of sunflowers and inexplicable gigantamongous statues of bulls on the hills. the road was uncrowded and easy to navigate. After Seville we turned off towards the Sierra de Aracena, and with some help from google maps found the Finca La Fronda, between Aracena and Alajar.

The Finca has a total of 8 rooms, it is family run (by descendents of William Wordsworth - they leave a poem on your pillow each day). The son cooks meals at dinner, and last nights was wonderful, elegant and delicious. The pool sits on a hillside from which you can see Portugal in one direction and Seville in the other. Christina, who manages the property now is very friendly and knowledgable and gave us oodles of help figuring out how to spend our time today.

We drove into Aracena - promptly got lost trying to find our way through the little streets, but after minor parking trauma found the Grutto de Marveilles - a huge underground cave (reminded us of Luray VA) the tour was very nice, and I appreciated that they didn't allow cameras as it enabled me to let go of picture taking mania and just be with the experience.

Then we had a truly gourmet lunch at Jesus Carrion restaurant (we made a reservation). Almond soup, eggplant parmesan, cold cod salad and steak (the latter was a mistake and they apologized profusely. Steve was a bit sad not to get his pork cheeks - another language challenge). the only sticky part so to speak is that I ended up locked in the bathroom (clean thank goodness) - not my fault - the wood was swollen and stuck. The waiter had to oomph it open for me. These are the travel moments we remember.

back to the Finca for another swim and rest. Dinner in an hour...I shall check in again from Sevilla.

Great report, I like following along on your trip. Your husband sure handled the flight issue well going.

A PERFECT DAY I
know I said I wouldn't check in until we were in Sevilla but a perfect day must be honored. We are staying at the Finca La Fronda, a beautiful inn in the mountains outside of Aracena, near Alajar. Our hostess, Christina, arranged for us to meet a guide in the little village of Fuenteheridos. Hannah (unfortunately do not know her last name) is from great Britain originally, but now lives here with her partner and their two children. She teaches by day, but leads nature hikes on the weekends. We spent the next two hours wandering along old market paths between towns, she knew a great deal about both local botany and history and it was perfect. Somehow the act of walking the trails grounded me - I really am in Spain. After our walk/hike we shared a drink in a cafe and then she recommended a restaurant : Arrieros in the town of Linares de la Sierra. What she neglected to tell us is that it is Michelin reviewed and is known all over the world. Linares is a tiny town and other than a family having a birthday party we didn't see another soul. the Church is lovely from the outside, and the village classic white homes on cobblestone streets - and the restaurant - well we both agreed that it was arguably the best meal we've ever eaten. We were greeted warmly and followed the hostesses suggestions: they brought us a taster of diced potatoes in olive oil, cumin and corriander, then hot tomato soup for my husband and gazpacho for me, carapacio as a starter was the most tender and tasteful I have ever had. Steve had pork cheeks in an apple sauce (finally) and I had tongue in a spice sauce, with acorn cake for dessert. I know I'm talking a lot of food here - but it was the most amazing experience - a meal worthy of the finest chefs of Madrid or Paris in a tiny teeny town we had certainly never heard of. We are feeling calm and rested and well fed, so pleased we decided to take a few days away from the tourist hustle bustle.

(copied from the side trip report - a perfect day)

Wow, that does sound the perfect day! Thanks for sharing!

Lovely!

DAYS 8 AND 9 I THINK: SEVILLA - THE GOOD, THE NOT SO GOOD, THE VERY HOT, THE AMAZING

So we sadly left Finca La Fronda and it's gorgeous views and cool breezes yesterday to head down to Sevilla. Making it three for three in the restaurant recomendations our hostess recommended Restaurante Jacaranda in Higuera de la Sierra on the way. Another sleepy town with nothing else in it - another totally amazing meal with wonderful service!

The drive was lovely and easy until of course we reached Sevilla and tried to follow the GPS/Google Maps directions to the train station to return the car. We found the train station after a bit of expected getting lost, but where was the Hertz car return? around and around we went. Found it eventually.

We had rented an apt with the express desire to get was done, and perhaps paid more than we would have to find one with a pool. Our first hint that we might be in trouble was when the taxi driver was utterly befuddled by the address, and then had to let us off at the end of the street to walk the rest of the way as the car couldn't get through. Part of my assumption in choosing a location in the Macarena was that even though it is a further walk than most locations we would be able to get a taxi when too tired or hot. However, where we are seems to be pretty far from any taxi routes. We've walked mostly, gotten taxis back. I'm a bit worried however about what to do when it is time to get to the train station in two days.

The apt itself is on the one hand physically lovely - but had hardly any or the crucial supplies you need (we rent our house out so we know what is "normal" in the biz). Even as we speak my husband is cursing as the shower curtain is coming down for the second time.

The dryer barely works so those of you who told me to forget the dryer and just go with the Andalusian sun - you were right!

It is very nice to have a pool to jump in in this heat, and we are slowly but surely getting wash done.

After a quick trip tot he market last night and a grumpy rest, we found our way to a large square and a great tapas restaurant (tiquetaque I think) - I think we are finally getting the hang of ordering tapas - and the variety was much better and cleverer than what we found in Madrid or Cordoba.

Found our way back, we were settling in when at 11 pm a fuse blew and we lost electricity - yeaks, VEO apt did answer the phone when I called, and Steve was able to find the fuse box, but it was unsettling.

This morning I nagged poor tired hubby out of bed so we could make it to the Real Alcazar in time for our tour. We were so glad I did, and the walk really wasn't as bad as I expected. To those of you who recommended getting tickets ahead of time, and including the Cuartos Real THANK YOU!!! If you are going to Sevilla and have not gotten your tickets on line I highly recommend you do so - the guard turned oodles of people away saying they were sold out. There were only 4 people on our tour and it was phenomenally beautiful. Truly one of the most beautiful places I've visited - and the audio guide was well done.

We then walked across the street and got in line, but a lady came by and said, do you speak English - 10 E more for a private tour and you get to skip the line. We grabbed it (heat was climbing to 100 by then). The tour was actually very informative and the Cathedral is gorgeous (3rd larges Cathedral in the world).

stopped for coffee and cold water and then walked to the Parque Maria Louisa. While the park is lovely and in much better shape than similar parks in Athens and Lisboa that we visited, it probably wasn't worth the walk in the heat, we were too tired and hot to really enjoy it although the sounds of the birds singing was nice. Following recommendations from Fodorites we then went to Restaurante San Marcos in Santa Cruz. Had a nice lunch, Steve liked his ravioli more than I liked my duck, but the setting was very nice (and cool). wandered a round a bit more but our hearts weren't in it, and now we are back doing more laundry and resting.

Laura,
Did you purchase tickets in advance online for admission to both the Alcazar and Seville Cathedral? Were these for guided tours, or just for admission?
Thanks, Karen

Just a small comment on your great review, about food: a "tapa" is something you get for free when you order a glass of wine or a beer, mainly in central and southern Spain (but also in other regions). It´s normally a small dish (some fries, some chorizo, olives...) and it´s free. A "ración" is what you´re having for dinner, it´s meant to be shared by those at the table and you have it close to the bar (not in the restaurant inside), and it´s not free. You normally order raciones of chopitos (small fried squid), or meatballs, or octopus, or cheese, or ham...And, in the Basque Country (where I live), we don´t have "tapas", it´s "pintxos" and it´s miniature cuisine, and you pay for them. Tapas or pintxos are never a meal, just an appetizer to go with your drink, and a way not to get drunk, and are taken before lunch or before dinner. I wrote a post about it sometime ago, but can´t find it! In any case, thanks for your great report!

Did you go to the Plaza de Espana in the Parque de Maria Luisa? I can't imagine anyone visiting the plaza and saying that it wasn't worth the walk...but then again, that may just be my opinion.

thanks Mikelg - we are learning - it is confusing as the menus refer to what we have oredered as tapas - but then it is hard to see what is for tourists and what is authentic. We've been so hot that it has been hard to search out the better tapas/tapa places

and memejs - no we didn't get to the Plaza de Espana - so unfortunately missed it. next trip (;

and Karen - we just got tickets for the Alcazar and the cuartos on line in advance - the Cathedral tour was just luck. both were real tours, but not overly long and very informative.

Laura, perhaps this website will help you navigate Sevilla's tapas scene. http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

This may help as well: http://spanishsabores.com/2015/04/22/eating-in-seville/

I know I should defer to Mikelg's experience, as he lives in Spain, but I'd point out a few things that we noted from our recent trip. We only received a free tapa with a drink in Granada and, to a more limited extent, in Madrid. In Seville, we paid for nearly all of our tapas. And while I appreciate that for the average Spaniard, tapas is not considered their evening meal, as a tourist--not used to eating dinner so late--we often made dinner out of it. If I lived in Spain for any length of time, I'd try to adapt, but for a short stay, we ate "dinner" when we wanted to, notwithstanding local norms.

It also seemed to us that many of the more modern restaurants, especially in Seville, were blurring the lines between traditional tapas and "dinner." At places like Vineria San Telmo, we saw plenty of locals seemingly eating "tapas" for dinner, but the setting itself is more restaurant than bar. The tapas scene as a whole just didn't seem as rigid as what Mikelg has suggested. If waiters were judging us for how or what we ordered, they certainly didn't let on!

Thanks Indyhiker, and since we are on to Granada tomorrow anyway, we shall do our best to adapt there. Bottom line is we are eating very well!

DAY 13 - WE LEAVE THE TOURIST SCENE IN SEVILLE BEHIND AND HAVE AN AWESOME DAY

After a rest and lovely swim on the rooftop we looked at our watches and wow - time for dinner already. We tried to find some other tapas places to try but I think they were mostly tourist oriented. finally settled on one - it was very mediocre - then I looked across the square and voila - there was TriqueTraque where we had the excellent meal the night before. We cut our losses - hopped across the way and finished off with meatballs in almond sauce and Thai buns (aka gyoza) which were phenomenal.

This morning, being our last laid back one we took our time getting ready. Instead of heading back down to Santa Cruz/cathedral area we decided to check out some of the sights nearer where we are staying (Macarena district). We walked to the Convento Santa Paulo. There was not a single other tourist in sight! We were worried at first it was not open, but ringing the bell a lovely lady let us in and indicated we should climb some stairs and ring another bell which we did. After about a five minute wait a sister in traditional habit opened the door - she was older than me - maybe 70, with the sweetest smile on her face. She took such delight in showing us the art and the rooms. Although she spoke no English and my Spanish is basic, we got along great. We were particularly awed by two reliquaries (having read many books in which relics played a significant role) it was - don't know the word - we just kinda took deep breaths to be seeing some for real. We found the visit very spiritual - maybe because the sister was such a beacon of grace.

We then went to the Casa de Las Duenas which is the ancestral home of the Dukes of Alba dating to the 15th century I think. The gardens are as beautiful as those in the Alcazar if not more so - and there were only a handful of visitors. The art was eclectic but interesting and the building beautiful. I finally broke down and engaged in some gift store purchases.

We thought about going to a third place, but being hungry chose to go for lunch instead. I wanted to try La Azotea that so many people had recommended, but it was full. So Steve pulled out his phone and did a search for something in the area and found Abantal which is Michelin rated as well as Guide Resperol ** We called and they said , si, so we walked over (whew, hot) and oh my heavens what a lunch - we chickened out on the tasting menu - didn't think we could handle 7 courses in the heat - but shared a starter of paella with cod and pork and then I had a sea bass, and Steve had lamb neck, and finished with a banana cake - with all sorts of amuse bouche and other tasty tidbits in between (watermellon juice with bloody mary foam). This isn't doing it justice, it was the kind of meal you would moan if it wasn't rude. After that we were way too sated and tired to take in any more, so home to laundry.

Now to go fold said laundry. Tomorrow wish us luck finding a taxi to get to Sant Justa in good time for the train to Granada

I'm really enjoying your trip review, particularly the focus on food. It's a great reminder of my trip to Andalusia several years ago!

I am really enjoying your report, Laura. Really nice that you mix the famous sites with hikes and neighborhood sites that are off the main track.

Indyhiker, it´s not really tapas what locals where having...it´s "raciones", which is not the same thing. A tapa is eaten standing at the counter, while a ración is had sitting down and sharing it with your companions. A ración may be a meal, but not a tapa. The difference may be subtle, but for a Spaniard it´s vey clear!

thanks all for your kind words. and Mikelg - part of what is confusing for the tourista is that the menu is calling it Tapas as are the signs on the restaurants - and I am sure that you know whereof you speak - whatever it is we are eating way too much of it!

last night we tried to go to a restaurant recommended by a friend, but it was a bit early so wandered over to a square we hadn't seen before and found a restaurant called Aljibe - ate up on the rooftop - beautiful view and breeze, dishes were delicious (finally learned not to order too much) raciones I believe lol, duck risotto for me, pork cheeks for him, a bit of banana cake for dessert. Even though there was a very large table next to us service was excellent and friendly.

Off to Granada!

Bar owners are probably simplifying and making it kind of easier for visitors...not a big deal as long as you´re enjoying them! But if you ever make it to the Basque Country, you won´t find tapas but pintxos...a whole different thing!

sounds cool Mikelg - hope we make it someday indeed

GRANADA IN THE ANDALUSIAN SUN

I was a bit worried about getting to the train station in Seville on time as we were staying on a street that was little more than an alleyway, but the young man who checked us in had told us about the app - Cabify which is the Spanish version of Uber. After a good deal of phone messing around we were able to download it and it worked like a charm - we were picked up with what felt like a town car and the whole thing was most efficient.

Santa Justa was a bit confusing - just worried cause our train had a message associated with it and it wasn't clear, but once the track was put up all went well (no luggage control at all). We settled in for a nice ride with a car full of other tourists - the countryside was beautiful. And then found out that sure enough - as warned by a fodorite - we needed to change in Antequerra for a bus. Other than the train steps being difficult to manage with heavy bags the transfer was easy enough however - they truly have the system down, and we arrived in Granada pretty much smack dab on time.

continued from above:

we hopped a taxi to the Parador where we are staying. After the elegant but somewhat run down and uncomfortable apt we were staying at in Seville we were ready for some mod cons as they say. The Parador is fantastic, the staff so helpful, and the room cool and comfy. We grabbed lunch on the patio which has a gorgeous view of the town and the Alhambra.

I started to feel poorly at that point - perhaps something I ate, or too much heat and fatigue or a combination of the above. We wanted to pick up our Alhambra tickets though before settling in so started down the hill to the gate - remembered halfway we needed our passports and walked up again and then down again, - the temperature was inthe 100's with humidity (40's C) and by this point I was feeling really poorly - I think I was getting heat "fatigue" or whatever you call it but could barely move by the time we got back to the room.

I tried to take a shower but it was so complicated I think only an engineer would understand it (we did finally figure it out but at that moment it utterly overwhelmed me). Finally lay down and my husband plied me with potato chips (for salt) and soda (for the tummy). He said we should skp dinner and the night time Nazrid Palace but I said - no way.

We had asked for an early reservation at the Parador restaurant which they cheerfully accomadated. We ate three meals there altogether - two lunches and one dinner. I'd read some so so reviews on trip advisor but I thought they were great - the food was good and served with panache (I really enjoyed a risotto with lobster, and Steve had a great kid stew). It is available to all btw - you don't have to stay at the hotel and very convenient from the Alhambra and you can get a light meal on the patio.

ADVICE: IF YOU ARE GOING DURING SUMMER MONTHS TRY TO STAY "ON THE HILL" IF YOU CAN. THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE HOTELS UP HERE: THE PARADOR, THE WASHINGTON IRVING AND THE HOTEL AMERICA. THE HEAT IS TRULY BRUTAL AND YOU WILL WANT TO SAVE EVERY OUNCE OF ENERGY TO WALK AROUND THE ALHAMBRA. ALSO THE ADDED ADVANTAGE THAT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VISIT WE WERE ABLE TO GO BACK TO OUR ROOM TO USE THE RESTROOM AND COOL DOWN FOR A FEW MINUTES.

So we then took off for the night time visit to the Nasrid, but were too tired and confused to do the obvious and read the signs so again took an unnecessary walk down the hill, then were rushing cause we weren't sure they would let us in. Turned out the entrance was right around the corner from the Parador, and we didn't need to worry, they were very relaxed about letting us in. It was indeed magical and beautiful as everyone said - I'll post pictures when I get home but I don't think words can do it justice.

This morning I again nagged hubby out of bed, worried about missing our Nasrid Palace tickets - it was good to get there early,not so hot, and the line was just forming (10:30), we got in easily. We didn't take a tour but did use the audio guide and it was very informative and I thought concise.

It is all so lovely and amazing that words fail me - after the Nasrid palace we went to the Carlos V palace - not so much to see there, but on the second floor is an art museum that hardly anyone went to. In addition to a great collection spanning the rennaisance to modern times (my favorites were the modern) it was air- conditioned! the perfect way to recover from the heat and for only 6E it was a bargain. We wandered around the Alcazaba (loved the olive garden), went back to the room to cool down a bit, and then walked through the Generalife - what an amazing, beautiful,spectacular and gorgeous garden - I am so glad we made it here.

we are resting now - early dinner and early bed tonight and then early flight tomorrow to Barcelona for our last stop. it is all going so fast. The nice young man at the desk arranged an early morning picnic for us as we will be leaving before breakfast is served.

Alhambra was amazing in the heat - I can only imagine what it would be like if the temperatures were bearable.

Thanks for the update. Too bad the heat is taking its toll. I hope you find Barcelona somewhat cooler.

Wishing you cooler temperatures in Barcelona. We were comfortable there in early July.
For the future, I have been to Seville and Granada twice, both times in late October and early November and the temperatures were perfect, sunny days, warm not hot.

TWO MEALS FROM HEAVEN, AN AIRPLANE FLIGHT AND BARCELONA

On our last night in Granada we had an early reservation at Estrallas de San Nicholas which we had found online while at home. Although as the crow flies it would have taken but a few moments to get to, because it was across the valley from the Alhambra/Parador it was a half hour taxi - we ate on the rooftop with an incredible view of the Alhambra across the ravine (I felt for the waiters who had to go up and down the stairs for each course) It was a superb meal - one to remember - scallops in a foie gras sauce and lamb shank with a morrocan touch. It was a bit of a challenge getting a taxi to get back to the Parador, but worth it.

we had to get up super early the next morning to catch our flight to Barcelona so the nice young man at the front desk arranged for a picnic for us to eat in our room before leaving. I'd left us 1.5 hours at the airport but we really didn't need it - it's a small airport and very efficient, reminded me of our home airport in Durango, CO.
1.5 hour flight on Vueling airlines and presto we were in Barcelona - big city shock.

We are staying at Hotel 1898 on La Rambla. The hotel is gracious, the room "well appointed " as they say (you know green marble in the bathroom) and more lights and plumbing that you need an engineering degree to understand, but the staff is sort of indifferent - efficient but not really helpful (everywhere else we've stayed the staff has been amazing). This may just be big city energy - so many people passing through. What was distressing is that the air wasn't on in the room and wasn't working properly (they did fix it) and in this heat it meant the room was really stuffy.

The room wasn't ready when we got there so we grabbed a bite to eat and when it still wasn't ready we took off to see the sights. (more later - time for dinner)

WONDERFUL CRAZY BARCELONA

Barcelona is one wacky effin city - sort of like New Orleans on steroids and then some - also so beautiful. Half the buildings have wonderful wacky art and the other half are classic beauties with carvings and intricate designs from the 18th and 19th centuries. As you walk around make sure to look up, not just down.

There are street artists, gelaterias, cafes and stores everywhere - a girl from a small town's shopping heaven. (I actually made it through most of the trip without buying much but my discipline is breaking down)

OK - museums first. We started off with the museum of the history of Barcelona wanting to get sort of an overview of the timeline of all that has occurred here. While it was very cool to see the underground excavations we were sort of disappointed - it was sort of a collection of found objects with a BBC voice explanation on the audio guide, but not the overview we had hoped for.

We then went to the Picasso - again a bit disappointing, especially given the line. We had hoped for a sampling of his work, but it mostly had either very early (pre-1920's) or very late (1950's) but almost none of his cubist or other works. Still enjoyed what we did see.

Maritime museum - really liked this one, not a big museum but well laid out in a nice space and a fascinating and well done exhibit about life on a galley in the 15th and 16th centuries (with a life size replica to view and excellent audio and video explanations) .

FOOD: The first night we had booked ahead of time a relatively early 7:30 reservation at Dos Cielos at the Melia Sky hotel. We were so hot and sweaty and were tempted to bail but I'm so glad we didn't - it was one of those peak experiences I shall never forget. It is a Michelin rated restaurant and perhaps the most fun meal I've ever had
It was about a half hour drive from our hotel so we were wondering where we were, the restaurant is on the 24th floor with an incredible view of the city. We were greeted and treated like royalty. Although a bit nervous about what it would entail we decided to try the tasting menu since we have never done so before. ten course - as far as I can remember here it is:
1. puff pastry with wasabi cream filling
2. risotto nori cracker with mini shrimps
3. crab stuffed gyoza
4. frissee salad with reconstructed stuffed tomato and apple/tomato cocktail with brazilian pepper (can't explain - it just worked)
5. Stuffed asparagus
6. John Dory fish
7. kid roasted for 12 hours
(oops forgot appetizer 4 - deep fried ear of suckling pig)
9. green tea ice cream
10 chocolate, passion fruit, mango dessert concoction

The service was exquisite, and we just staggered out saying "we'll ever eat like this again" - I can't recommend it highly enough.

Yesterday we took a tour focused on the Spanish Civil War in Barcelona with Spanish civil war tours with Nick Lloyd - it was powerful enough that it deserves it's own post.

Today we went to Parc Geull - we had booked the tour of the monuments district and it was worth it as we got to see the heart of the parc, and it was really informative, putting the parc into historic and architechtural perspective. What can one say about Gaudi - amazing, inspiring and just so dog gone fun! If I lived here I would be there every week. In a bit we leave for the Sagrada Familia, so I shall fill you in on that and the Spanish Civil War Tour another time.

I'm really enjoying your report. It is very informative and helpful. I'm taking notes for our trip in October.

I hope you continue to have a wonderful time. We thoroughly enjoyed Barcelona a few years ago.

wow, Laura, I just caught up with your fabulous trip. Loving the detail, especially of course the food. You can add us to the list of people who prefer to have a good lunch [especially when you can get a good value menu de dia] and tapas/raciones for dinner.

looking forward to reading more about your experiences in Barcelona.