|
Originally Posted by zebec
(Post 17574535)
BB, I do not recall that story. Glad that you shared about that close call here. So many bluffs and cliffs there- your dad was fortunate that day!
Danon, I had not realized that they'd let you out of the Don Jail for (what was it again?) "chaining yourself to the doors at the Ontario Science Center over its imminent closure." Seriously, we are Barcelona-bound for the first time this fall and would love to hear your tips. Feel free to do that here, if you wish. I have been to Barcelona many times , the last visit was a year ago. This thread is too interesting to divert attention to other destinations. If you start one on Barcelona I am sure you will receive a number of suggestions , I will be glad to contribute . Now, I am busy shaking my head over the by- election in St Paul’s riding. |
Pont Aven. Our related shoutout for this goes to Gardyloo, for all his extended imagery and general comments. All that helped inform our voyage that day.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58f214d364.jpg Friday September 29, 2023 was when we visited Pont Aven on a daytrip. It was a nice day with a temperature of 19 degrees. I wore brown socks and Mrs Z wore black ones. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1296e5ec0.jpg Before going into the Gaugin museum, we strolled the 'Bois D'Amour', the peaceful green woods above town that Gaugin and his fellow artists favored all those years ago. One reaches that by taking rue Villeargaut past wonderful private gardens. In no time, we came across the site where he painted his famed 'Moulin (mill) 9' aka The Bathers. That was the first of 4 colorful plaques which served to label exact locations of certain art. The town once had 14 such mills. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a331157696.jpg The Woods are an absolute must in our opinion. They offer a different, more natural side to the somewhat-touristy town. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb0b1d3e34.jpg The Aven river was fast-flowing in some areas. Its rushing waters took on some very interesting shapes. Its audio also added to the general peace of the woods, as did the birdsong. The hike was not difficult and actually extends as far as the Tremalo Chapel. There were boulders, bridges, mushrooms, orange slugs/snails and few humans. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55694aa500.jpg This peaceful mid-town Promenade had some clumsily blocked-off sections due to construction. Across the way was the famous lavoir that Gaugin once painted. The town trades off its Gaugin connection and yet some literature paints him as a selfish jerk who thought everyone was beneath him - especially the simple townsfolk of Pont Aven! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dea2a9193.jpg The Gaugin museum has been modernized and features a wide variety of old and new art. Entry cost 8 euros per adult. There was a sparse crowd. The layout was very impressive. Modern tech was utilized in pleasing ways. Gaugin's Goose-sketch-on-an-old-wooden-door can be seen there. A bit of history, a bit of art. The modern item above was outnumbered. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...791b785c1b.jpg There was a special exhibit on Women Travelers throughout history, with emphasis on those who also painted. We were forced to leave one part of that exhibit because the odor was too much. One visitor (or staffer? or guide?) had not made personal hygiene a priority that day and the olfactory results were incredible. I chose this image above from that exhibit because of the way the artist so perfectly captured that shy weaver girl's facial expression. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10e0f0d1f2.jpg Even the museum's side rooms featured some impressive art, including stucco and some nice wooden carvings. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb0cd195fa.jpg Hungry visitors will enjoy the Henaff Breton deli. Good variety. We bought two soups: Rose Bretagne onion plus Pampol bean. Their neighbor displayed the tin chef seen above. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ef5730e12.jpg We went as far south as the port area by the Buste de Gaugin. Lunch was at the Creperie du Port. Shown above is the more central district with its own iconic Mill. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5466a20184.jpg A gull floats by that same Mill. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f6eac5e91.jpg Fence detail. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12cca10a03.jpg Cafe decor. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6feb227b9.jpg Colorful bags. There were also some very appealing green glass vases, masterpieces set as gallery window displays. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9675a3c7e9.jpg Foodies rave about 'Rosmadec', which is in an attractive riverside locale. It seemed to be a supper-only restaurant. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...849ca17392.jpg We enjoyed pretty Pont Aven. *Check bus schedules for unexpected and illogical routing changes. *Next: the cruises on Odet river plus the Gulf of Morbihan. |
Zebec, this is a truly wonderful trip report. Your photos deserve close attention. I'm following it on my phone but plan to go through your photos on the "big screen" later.
|
Coq, merci beaucoup encore. Imagery always gets flattered by smaller screens, yeah? Lavandula has recommended a great film (trans. 'Not a Word') and we will pursue it.
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt28542205/https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afd43cdead.jpg And so both cruises. The season was wrapping up and we literally caught the very final day cruises in both Quimper and Vannes. During the latter, we saw this traditional 'sinago' boat ('Crialeis'), a close cousin of the similar 'forban' craft. Forban boats originated in Bono, right beside Auray. The Gulf of Morbihan= 'little sea'. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79af1f7be2.jpg The Vannes cruise was with Compagnie de Golfe and departed At 10:15 from the southerly Gare de Maritime (25 euros pp). The route started and ended with a close look at Conleau, the wonderful recreational peninsula immediately south of Vannes. A lunch there is a MUST, say at 'Corlazo' cafe shown here. The walk to and from past tidal plains includes a small foresty stretch of the G34 trail. We'll briefly detour now for a few fotos of lovely Conleau, then go back to the cruises. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e828ed43c1.jpg Conleau tree with a G34 trail sign. One could also hike that same trail over to Sene. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6d5778b32.jpg Conleau couple. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08f89d8799.jpg Conleau shore. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3eae3ca83f.jpg We went twice to Conleau and witnessed the tidal influence along the way. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...348e415238.jpg Early stretches of the Vannes cruise went past people harvesting the sea. Here, some hobby fishermen near Ile de Boedic and its iconic stone chapel. Elsewhere, we passed numerous locals with hand-held nets collecting various seafood either by beaches or on their own property's seafront. The route then went right between the Ile aux Moines ('monks') and Ile d'Arz. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d410fe917.jpg This crewman prepares for our boat to allow hikers to disembark at the latter's Port de Belure. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74fe930e65.jpg Both isles have their fans. Our landlord couple lived on one of the isles. The majority of tourists were French, such as the hiker family shown here. The popular area enjoys a Mediterranean micro-climate, so we saw palms, grape vines, mimosas plus olive trees. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3de047bc89.jpg Iconography. ?Maybe Point Toulindac? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca726f9631.jpg We were joined on the water by all manner of craft. That included some regattas. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6e047f3cf.jpg On both cruises, one viewed much affluence. On the Odet river cruise, it was more historical, like chateaus used in movie sets. In the case of the Morbihan, it was more modern and private. We went between Lannic islet and the 6,000 yr. old archaeological cairn/isle Gavrinis. That latter isle is known for its prehistoric zig-zag chevron line patterns. Fellow passengers told us that Gavrinis was closed for renos but by now, one imagines the site has reopened. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0b26788e2.jpg The Maison Rose (1879) serves as a fixed and identifiable maritime landmark for those trying to navigate to/from the port of Vannes. One finds it at the most westerly tip of the Sene peninsula. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40e625659c.jpg She was one of several individuals whom we spied along the route. They were readers, writers, artists, whatever, all solitary and seaside. 'Here by the sea and sand...' (The Who 'Quadrophenia'). Our Vannes route took us by the Rhuys peninsula, Arzon, points St. Nicolas, Kerners, Pembert, Monteno, Bilgroux, ilset de Jument, (*furthest point/Atlantic Ocean turnaround) Port Navalo/Quiberon bay, Ile Longue, Lannec, le Berder, Irus, Drenec, Tascon, St. Armel and the wildlife island of Ilur. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab67dddbc8.jpg The Odet coastal river cruise was with 'Vedettes de l'Odet', which departed from Benodet on September 30th at 10 o'clock. Their promo bragged 'the prettiest river in France'. I would not go with that slogan, if I were in charge. Hyperbole is unnecessary. The cruise was fun and we made it with minutes to spare. There exactly 4 English-speakers among the sold-out crowd. Benodet--Ben='river mouth'/Odet=name of river. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6333f12e39.jpg Inviting Ste-Marine hamlet was directly across. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba70e7443a.jpg After setting out beneath the modern Pont de Cornouaille, we passed Anse de Penfoul, Le Cosquee and more natural sights on both sides - unlike the more wide open Gulf de Morbihan cruise, this was a river with bien sur, 2 banks to view coming and going. It was breezy, something that some passengers could not handle - they went below. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b4ffe6583.jpg There were gulls, herons, egrets, falcons and cormorants. There were also riverside boulders painted white as a warning, such as at Sant de la Pucelle. the rivers famed pines were depicted well in artist Andre Dauchez' 1917 landscape painting. Quite a few patches of the woody banks revealed devastating tree disease. We also passed a famous French yacht-racing champ's remote cottage. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8633a92f79.jpg The route went by these young kayakers near Lanhuron, then Kerandrouan, Perennou, Plomelin's striking castle (village was birthplace of writer Kerouac), a bit of ancient Roman wall remains, Boutiguery, Cale de Rossulien, Saint Cadou bay, Kerambleiz castle, Lanroz, Kerdour then finally the Baie de Kerogan mud flats turnaround point by Port Corniguel. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6d71954bd.jpg Kergouzen manor has become a popular wedding venue. It seems that many of its customers are Italian. A decade ago, a Bronze age discovery was made nearby at St. Belec by archaeologists. They found a rare 3D stone slab. It measured 2.2 by 1.6 meters and was deemed to be the oldest known territorial map on the planet. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3db1122a0.jpg The area has a number of picturesque lighthouses. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48b5ad62d2.jpg A regatta contestant and https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e9d61a642.jpg their competition. Next=Vannes then a small bit of Paris to conclude. |
This musical choice is a nod to France's Algerian citizens. Not so evident in Brittany as in say, Paris.
|
Another wonderful set of photos, zebec!
|
Thank you Ade. That was a lovely orchid garden that you just visited at the end of your own TR.
Time to wrap up this TR. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...076094fa1d.jpg Before Vannes, I wanted to show some shots that spoke to France's multi-kulti makeup. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...550a43b02b.jpg All four images are from the Left Bank in Paris. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d726937817.jpg Latin Quarter women. A nearby kid's balloon suddenly burst and sent a few of us there scrambling for a moment. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb8b79c981.jpg About a decade ago, one Left Bank hotel offered a 'stay 3 days and get the fourth night free' special deal. Dunno whether they still offer that. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9689b50b9.jpg
Vannes was a 1 hour TGV ride from Quimper. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b013298018.jpg Nikki, do you recognize that building top left, there above these leisure craft in the Port du Plaisance? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f013faf4f.jpg One weekend, there was an eco-fest. Seen in the distance, the fest's collection of white tent display-booth kiosks. The heritage boat 'Boreale' shown here was used for tourist cruises in the Gulf of Morbihan. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf301437a9.jpg Men playing petanque in the park. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d98fd3747.jpg Her friendly group was more co-ed. We all enjoyed a lovely chat. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65d29845e7.jpg A giant 20' stone fish reflection (je pense?) dans la Marle. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff699689d7.jpg This artist was not to be outdone. By the aquarium. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8a3f45c6b.jpg Vannes had a popular weekly market. The crowds were thick. Self-caterers will think that they've died and gone to heaven. *Incredible added value was found in the form of the adjoined Les Halles permanent covered market. Think that we'll take a detour here to separately post a listing of some of those of those foodic wonders below, before returning to more imagery. But first some more music, sung in French. |
The meandering French sung here works perfectly in this pensive chanson.
|
So food...Jayzus. In Vannes, one is spoiled for choice. The convenient and tightly-grouped combo of: weekly market in Pl. des Lices/Les Halles des Lices/nearby outliers is as good as any that we have thus far encountered
An essential outlier: the purple-facade La Huche a Pain artisanal boulangerie. Sigh...This is your French food fantasy my friends. Not only do they offer a wide variety of great baked goods, but their salads are also not to be missed. Not just gourmet...great setting too. We went repeatedly. Ask for their 'dolmen' baguette. A poster over on another travel forum claimed that shoppers could expect to find horse meat, donkey milk plus stingray stew at LES HALLES. Not sure about those, but we were nonetheless delighted to find: -*Happy Terroirs'. Incontestably Vannes' best deli, a mom-daughter 'popotes' duo that create excellence. It was wrenching to leave their booth (see photo below) - we always wanted more! Try their squash puree and also their boeuf bourguignonne. Oh and also their superbe seaweed salad (haricots de mer). Bravo!! -directly across the hall: 'Chez R'Kia' offered pret a manger Moroccan salad meals. The owner imports Casablanca semolina to make her own pita. If you like tajine, then this is an essential visit. -'Ferme de Luguen' offers canard foie gras. -'Vero Cremes & Fromages' sells Brillat-Savarin cheese, plus much more. Their home-made berry confit was a highlight. -'Vivier' fishmongers are very popular with locals. They sometimes sell conger eel, one of my faves. Sadly, anguille de mer was not in-season during our visit. Other residents preferred the dedicated Seafood Market Hall mere minutes away, with its own 20 vendors. -the various produce that we bought day after day at 'Breiz Prim' was Top-Quality. Their raspberries were world-class. I was born on a farm so trust me on that. Outliers: -at the weekly market, 'La Touch Breizh' serve an interesting selection of less-easy-to-find Breton specialties. Try owner Christian Prigent's traditional 'kig ha farz' meat stew. -two neighbouring, upscale businesses sold honey and confitures/jams. 'Famille Mary' sell a wide range of French honeys and 'La Cour d'Orgeres' sells jams from across the nation. Both stores know their demographic and travelers may buy the perfect souvenir gift for loved ones back home here. -*Terres de Feves does delicious artisanal chocolate! (see photo below). -'Francois' pastries sells Breton specialties including crepes, kouign aman (pron. 'queen aman') plus various gateaux. -'La Fromagerie de Kerouzine' sells great cheese in a very modern shop. -award-winning 'Alain Chartier' sells fancy pastries. Other Food Notes You may want to look for on your Tro Breizh: -l'andouille de Guemene sur Scorff (eg. l'Argoat); peak & chips (fish n' chips); Henoff pate; cou cou cereal-fed hens from Rennes or Bresse; Sougeal goose; monkfish; Pt. Salut de abbey Timadeuc cheese (made by trolls in a cave); see also cheeses by St. Paulin, Mme Loik and Darley; cider in its 3 forms - brut/dry, doux/sweet and bouche/sparkling; Breton sables biscuits; scallops St. Jacques; Belon OR Cancale oysters bien sur plus mussels; 'farz au forn' sweet baked flan; far Breton=prune clafouti flan; 'krampouez'crepes, inc. dentelles (thin and crunchy(; galettes (buckwheat pancakes); butter cookies de Pont Aven 'Traou Mad'; strawbs fom Plougastel or Doulas; nashi pears de Nantes; 'chouchen' mead; lambig booze; rose onions de roscoff; *specialty honey from northern dunes: Miellerie de la Cote des Legends (Plouescat); artichokes and broccoli de Leon; moked fish from Cap sizun; bass de Pointe de baz; pink clams de Iles de Gelnan; 'cotriade' chowder/bouillabaisse; Audierne crayfish and blue lobsters; langoustine Loctudy OR Guilvenec; coquillages fish/chicken stew served in seashell; bien sur anchovies and sardines. Yec'h mat-a la Tienne! |
This has been a wonderful trip report filled with gorgeous photos! We have visited many places in France but we have never been to Brittany. Hopefully we will make it there one day before we are too old to travel.
|
Late to the party but loving this report. I've always been curious about Quimper. I inherited a full set of Henriot table service (50+ pieces) from my grandmother, circa 1950s I think. I think you've just inspired a new trip...
|
Vannes (cont.) below
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a40f5a6982.jpg The fleur de lys motif is the symbol of France. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f33a1d98c.jpg The Hermine au Sol (ermine weasel) serves as the symbol of Vannes. The 18C chateau that one sees while walking the famed ramparts, features an impossible-to-miss depiction of the above icon done in a mass of bright red flowers. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ff15662a0.jpg Vannes couple about our age. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a93ca42c1.jpg Vannes couple, not our age. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99b2efea56.jpg Jams from every corner of the country. Great gift ideas. Not one of them made it home. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af106968e5.jpg The equivalent Vannes Cancer Walk. The looooong line of walkers went nearly all the way down to Conleau!!! This shot was taken from our rental home's backyard, next to the Pennec yacht maintenance yard. A U-2 tribute band was also playing outdoors then, in front of that white building across the banks of the Marle river's Port de Plaisance. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...388f5cd938.jpg That same marina as seen from up on the former heliport, now a picnic field. In the run-up to the howling BIG storm Ciaran, we woke one morn only to find that right bank dirt path submerged. Some locals called it instead storm 'Babet'. Mother Nature always bats last. Btw, Nikki also stayed here on the left, right across from us. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...634b470eba.jpg Nikki, do you recognize this public bench corner by the Carrefour City? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...313f0686a5.jpg A stroll along the picturesque ramparts is a must. Maybe consider doing that for sunrise plus the golden hour? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56d0beeec4.jpg Historic structures line both sides. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87f073e306.jpg That includes Cathedral St. Pierre (not seen), the willows farthest left, Tour Connetable ('army general'--seen on left) plus other historic sights such as Tour Talmont and Porte Poterne. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02c57c6c21.jpg The Dedale is a funky combo of boho-family cafe/arts center/musical venue. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a3fc652cb.jpg Locals enjoyed drinks and snacks there. Street art murals there included DJ and also basketball themes. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43b66b550f.jpg It had its own modest little beach for warmer months. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfbe22abd0.jpg Vannes stained glass by Pl. Henri IV. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2ce375166.jpg Ah Villa M, that riverside wonder. One of the finest, most satisfying homes that we have ever rented! Above, a pair of dining room tables reflecting on the table. Merci Vanessa et Francois! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1184c014ba.jpg Vanessa is a serious gardener, so the property has many lovely touches. Shown here, her choice of kitchen wallpaper. Evergreen trees, flowers, grapes, a hammock, hedges for privacy, fantastic furniture (inc. antiques), the best coffee-maker, AND crucially for travelers who have walked a lot: an inviting outdoors hot tub! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6abf68b590.jpg Vanessa's husband Francois was also great to deal with. Their rental villa is a detached house in an upscale neighborhood, well-situated for a variety of needs both logistical and daytrip-wise. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1603edb794.jpg The interior decor was both tasteful and practical. And arty touches were also evident. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...637f5ee4ed.jpg Whenever we saw these various silent boats gliding by our property (set times am/pm), only the very tops of their masts were ever visible. Hence, our nickname 'the giraffes'! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b634802714.jpg Those boat comings and goings were strictly controlled by the local nearby Capitainerie. Seen here, reflections of the street art mural on the Capitainerie attached cafe's side on quai B. Moitessier. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e44939200.jpg This was literally 'street art'. On the modern street near the modern school and r. Col. Maury. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27ab56b650.jpg Another local with whom we had nice conversation. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4c5023281.jpg Cafe life Vannes style. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14a1ab9d09.jpg As above. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f9aa002b6.jpg Social comment could be seen in certain areas. Note the tiny human clinging to the toes of the upper right orangutan. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d6b3d7794.jpg Similar themed message next door to Dedale, part of a row of such monotone posters. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...addca5c766.jpg As above. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c899fcfc2b.jpg Car glass reflection near Maison de St-Vincent Ferrier. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ecddb91aa.jpg Window reflection in Pl. des Lices. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df857325ef.jpg Water reflection. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41f91628bd.jpg Childrens merry-go-round by the Tourism office and its neighboring 'Kiosque Culturel' (under renos during our visit). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8493847050.jpg The 'Happy Terroirs' deli owners (mom & daughter) at Les Halles Lices ('lists') permanent market. We pity the fool that fails to buy there! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...031ddc0db5.jpg The lady who owns the inviting 'Terre de Feves' artisanal chocolate shop around the corner at 26 Lices. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41cd3893ab.jpg As above. We always keep our word after promising to give businesses a shout-out in our TRs. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30e8167bb0.jpg Villa Kersay is a 4 star Asian-themed boutique hotel up at the very top of Vannes near the gare. We went there for couples massage. I opted for an authentic Indian ayurvedic-styled 'shirodara' treatment, hard to find nowadays. Too many bogus versions are currently advertised across the globe, many of which are complete bullshit. But, the wonderful massages here were the real deal: Demat Lucy - Merci beaucoup!! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0db723a11.jpg Bastien and his Austin-born wife approached for a chat after becoming intrigued overhearing our almost-effortless switching back-and-forth from English to French, while we waited for our massages in the hotel library. The book collection there included the excellent French guidebook Gallimard, plus many of the usual suspects: Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Eyewitness, Bradt, Rick Steves, Blue Guide and Frommers. There was an additional title that also began with 'F', but I can't come up with it. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d98eb3129.jpg Many lovely buildings, well cared-for in Vannes. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a6a65ddab.jpg They submerged this one. Pourquoi? Je ne sais pas. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa466caa46.jpg An attractive town, in an attractive site, with attractive people (many Paris-born recent 'refugees'). https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...275af50ae4.jpg Vannes is easy on the eyes. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0186a3fa4b.jpg 'La Huche a Pain' boulangerie, the *absolutely-essential bakery about which I raved above. Thought it was purple. Gotta see my eye doctor... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a68a2b2a2c.jpg This town makes a great base, with attractions of its own. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6aa4d353c8.jpg Pl. Gambetta is the entry into the old part of town. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3837d14323.jpg At the Porte St-Vincent entry arch within Pl. Gambetta, this young cyclist dropped her helmet onto the cobblestones. I fetched it then asked for a portrait. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef5b6734c4.jpg Old boater. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...402b4b89d8.jpg Young boaters. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...614f0925c1.jpg Reluctant rower. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b29d1dd93b.jpg Y'all deserve a soak in a hot tub after viewing this long Vannes section. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc63d195ac.jpg Loudhailer: FOLKS, THE FOLLOWING PARIS SECTION IS THE CONCLUSION! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9209a8ff23.jpg Goodbye Vannes, including our wonderful, architect's dream house rental=Villa M. |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3a13b124e.jpg
Paris. Here we see strollers in front of the Hotel de Ville at Pl. d'Italie 13e. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4de27dbea.jpg Waiting on the bus in Buttes aux Cailles. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba24e4dac2.jpg By the restaurant L'Entracte. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ede5f7bf5f.jpg Left Bank lantern. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5104f637b.jpg The lovely Jardine des Plantes was free. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74915b79c2.jpg But its adjoined Museum of Natural History had a 7 euro fee for a special 'Automne Tropical' exhibit. Inside, we met a local dad with his cute 6 year old daughter. Both were excited to be going on their first-ever family safari in just two days. She was on the Toussaint school break. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a605f78d5.jpg We four chatted for a long time by this remarkable orange-black prehistoric tree trunk, fossilized and glossy after countless millennia. We gave dad and daughter some safari tips. After we'd said goodbye, the girl later sprinted back twice to breathlessly tell us of her later discoveries! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d73d8b0da.jpg A beautiful place with a wide variety. So many species. An altercation occurred in the Grande Serres section. From what we gathered, a frustrated security guard had warned one pesky local visitor too many times to refrain from crossing over sealed-off areas. Voices were raised. The African-born guard obviously felt that the white visitor had deliberately ignored his repeated instructions. That ugliness contrasted sharply with the surrounding beauty. Racism? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f08b48cc8.jpg Glass houses. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6bfdb57ddb.jpg The glass house displays included one from an outfit called '23 degrees', a 'Pepiniere Nantaise (from Nantes)' whose young entrepreneur rep sold rare exotic plants. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc86591e39.jpg Those included begonias, Raphidophora and many other succulents that neither of us had ever seen. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de65a440bb.jpg Dried plants sometimes have a charm all their own. Mrs Z just loved them! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67cceb7c65.jpg Purple berries. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fea9500ec6.jpg A rose is a rose... https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f661056761.jpg The Alpine area. A fallen Japanese cheery tree lay right beside this healthier tree. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d81b532861.jpg The 'Beehive Hotel' says this clever sign! There was a large Childrens Show being set up, with a number of huge (and expensive-looking) whimsical models depicting various aspects of the plant world. That included a quartet of red squirrels. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9eb395e7b.jpg Bright and colorful. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...648fd165f5.jpg This shot concludes the Jardine part. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c3e403dc4.jpg Et donc, the rain in Paris. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbe76e78ca.jpg By a metro stop. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7007fd693.jpg Butte aux Cailles is justly famed for having some of the best street art in Paris. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c3045ecfb.jpg Some of it shows a sense of humour. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37a7ffe632.jpg Some was less funny. Here, a child stamped with a serial number. Elsewhere, a Taliban pointed a modern assault rifle at a small girl. Also, we saw a colorful salamander eco-theme. As well, a defiant Ukrainian girl proudly waved a tattered blue-gold national flag. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c48d67030.jpg Some of the earliest Paris street art was done by the late Miss.Tic. Radhia Novat was a Montmartre-born (the irony) plastic artist whose stencils of sexy, dark-haired women were spread across walls from Le Marais to Butte aux Cailles. They always were accompanied by provocative slogan labels - she was also a poet. She died age 66 in May 2022 after a serious illness. Mrs Z and I recalled her original stencil work from back in the late '80s (*will try to find our old shots of that some day). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...530fd0b3e4.jpg One could spend an entire day exploring the various street art. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b820bca37d.jpg Another example. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66f87ad41a.jpg Buttes aux Cailles has a more residential feel than most other neighborhoods that tourists experience. The exact location above apparently played a role in the Les Mis-style massacres that plagued 19C Paris. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e4b8730ac.jpg The cafes are great, including at night. But there is one that we'd never recommend: the tiny 'Merle Mouqeur ('mockingbird') tavern. We only ever spent time there because of a rainstorm that'd struck while we'd been waiting for our fave restaurant to open across the street. The tavern bartender hack-coughed like he was about to die for most of our 45 min. stay, including onto our drinks. We both got ill afterwards and my wife wasn't 100% for weeks. C'mon Merle staff: stay home if sick. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a19c820d91.jpg The following pair were 2 of Mrs Z's faves. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b727781c4e.jpg Note the 'tiny' windows! These examples covered entire sides of high-rise apartment buildings. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73cea9f7d4.jpg This following trio was located away from Butte aux Cailles over on Blvd. Vincent Auriol, another well-known Paris spot for BIG street art. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1b4523441.jpg Funny eco-theme. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4ef0a4a13.jpg A sense of mystery. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...551819fccc.jpg Et puis, the Grande Mosque. Its close to the Jardine. Go to this beautiful building for the garden, the architecture and also the MUST-do Cafe! Fans of tajine will never taste better (in Paris, anyway). The garden's roses smelled wonderful, especially the pink and red ones. They were probably the Indian 'attar' types if my nose was correct. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72d37f6a19.jpg The cafe/restaurant has an indoors plus an outdoors section. Both are justly popular. Great friendly vibe throughout. Unfortunately, the famed, genuine hammam Turkish-style massage/steam bath now only serves women. No more males allowed. A definite loss, believe me guys. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9aeb60f95f.jpg A meal here after a jardine visit makes for an excellent (and excellent-value) two-fer. A great day. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5ad797f54.jpg Its tower is but one beautiful aspect of the remarkable architecture on display. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1066587b61.jpg Stunning interior work. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d76083227b.jpg Its library's stained-glass door panel. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1160b80cf9.jpg It is one of the city's more exotic interiors. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...934e912764.jpg I rest my case. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f4fc3aa20.jpg There was a wedding in progress. These young women were off to one side. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3e76732bc.jpg A city full of interesting people of all stripes. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d52c238997.jpg Lovely Left Bank lampshades. Merci for tagging along. We are happy to try to answer any questions about travel to southern Brittany and Paris. I am done. The end. |
Bravo, zebec.
|
Yes, Bravo indeed! Your latest installments are magnificent! I love Vannes. Looks like a wonderful place to stay. How many nights were you in Quimper and how many nights in Vannes?
All the photos are gorgeous! Some favorites: All your reflections shots The glass house with pinks and greens The street art in Paris, especially the social commentary ones: my favorites are the orangutans (and yes I saw the little human) and Burger King Your Paris photos are so interesting and so unique - not your typical Paris photos. Close-ups of the flowers |
Once again zebec, you find much beauty and interest in daily life and it’s such a pleasure to absorb your wonderful photography.
|
I am just finding this report. I had given up waiting for it. I wasn’t ignoring the shout-outs. Yeah, I think that is a shot of our penthouse apartment in Vannes. I liked Douarnenez a lot too, took pictures of some of the same things you did. We didn’t go into the boat museum but we walked by and saw the ships.
I think we got there a week after you did, so we missed the cruises, which all seemed to stop in September. I was sorry and wished we could have taken the cruises, thanks for the photos to show us what we missed. In Quimper, we stayed in Locmaria, and our hotel window overlooked the herb garden there. It was a great location for me because it was right next to the Quimper factory and museum. Like ms go, I inherited a huge collection of Quimper faience. Unfortunately the museum had closed for the season and the factory had stopped giving tours. September would have been a better time to go but that’s not the time we could go. Great to relive our trip through your photos and descriptions, thanks! |
You're more than welcome birthday girl. Just wanted to also add the newly-updated promo for that fab Vannes rental 'Villa M'.
https://villa-m-vannes.com/en/villa-...0du%20Morbihan. |
loved reading this trip report, and it has reinforced my desire to spend some time in Brittany! the problem for us is resisting the urge to stay in too many different places.
any advice on best time of year to go? we typically take a 'big trip', i.e. around three weeks, in the Fall. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:46 PM. |