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jlewfirtree Jan 15th, 2024 05:52 PM

LAKE COMO TOWN OPTIONS (March 16 - 21)
 
Hi! My husband wants to ski the Swiss Alps and we found a great flight into Milan. Since I don’t ski, we thought we would spend 5 nights in Arosa Switzerland, and six nights on Lake Como. (COMO, CHERNOBBIO, VARENNA or LECCO)

I realize this is off-season, and it might be a little bit chilly. But I’m having a very hard time figuring out what will be open, what ferry’s will be running, and the general vibe of some of the towns will be at that time of year. I’ve only just now realized that LECCO will be cut off from ferry’s in MARCH.

We will be traveling with two young children and will have a car. we wanted to choose a good base where we could explore the rest of the region… even visiting places like Bergamo if it turns out Como is disappointing then, or take the train to shop in Milan.

We are looking for an authentic village feel. Someplace with a few different restaurants some cute shops, markets. But also incredibly picturesque.

it seems COMO might be the easiest, but I’m worried I will be disappointed that it is not quaint enough. I’m not sure what to make of LECCO by comparison, and I am wondering if VARENNA will be closed? CHERNOBBIO was recommended by a family member….

appreciate any advice.

TDudette Jan 15th, 2024 06:27 PM

Welcome, jlewfirtree. I can only help with Varenna. With its train station, I'll suggest it would be the most convenient for connecting to other places that way. The car ferry there can take you to other lovely towns. Varenna doesn't close but some hotels are still not open so if you don't get calls returned that might be why. I found it charming. Others can weigh in re other places.

jan47ete Jan 15th, 2024 07:08 PM

I was in Como in November of last year so know your feeling about March but actually I usually travel March and November. The ferry schedule is attached.
https://www.navigazionelaghi.it/en/t...les-lake-como/ and the winter schedule is in effect until March 17.

Como was delightful and easy to wander around the city and travel out from it.

I love Bergamo, a very delightful city and a very special place.

jlewfirtree Jan 15th, 2024 07:15 PM

Thank you both! So would you recommend Bergamo as a home bar over the Como area at that time of year? March 16 - 22?

Jean Jan 16th, 2024 07:18 AM

Since you'll have a car, I'd base in Menaggio or Cadenabbia on Lake Como's western shore. Pick a hotel or lodging with parking. You could use the ferry to visit Bellagio and Varenna and use the car to explore along the western shore. You'd have access to other towns by ferry if the service frequency accommodates your sightseeing plans. From Menaggio, you can make a day trip by bus (or car) to Lugano in Switzerland. Have your passports with you.

Some restaurants and shops in Bellagio, Varenna and small towns may still be closed until the ferry service reverts to on-season timetables. It's not as much of an issue in Menaggio and Cadenabbia.

I like Bergamo a lot too, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it over somewhere on Lake Como. You should do some research to figure out what you would do for 5 days in either place, based on your interests and preferences for this part of your trip. Neither place is particularly a young child's paradise. (What ages?) IMO, if you were thinking of making a day trip to Bergamo from Lake Como, I think it's a little too far... at least 90 minutes each way by car, and longer from Menaggio/Cadenabbia. And that doesn't account for making your way to parking in Bergamo without violating the town's ZTL (limited traffic zone). It would be easier to visit Bergamo by train from Milan, but it doesn't sound like you're spending any time in Milan.

jlewfirtree Jan 16th, 2024 07:30 AM

Hello! Wow, I hadn't even considered the western side (as I was looking at Como, Chernobbio, Varenna and Lecco). I'm afraid my brain will explode if I start looking at new places!!!

I suppose we just want to be someplace REALLY BEAUTIFUL, and picturesque, and safe, and clean, with delicious food and atmosphere. A playground for kids is fine. We will stay in an Airbnb, so will also want to chill sometimes and just "be" in the place. Options for food would be nice. We like "nice" places that don't feel "too touristy" but don't want to be someplace totally "residential" where there are ugly modern buildings. (so touristy WITHOUT being OVERTLY TOURISTY) In Italy, I prefer RAVELLO over POSITANO. I prefer MATERA over LECCE. I Love ROME (20 years ago). I'm NOT EVEN BOTHERING with Milan because I've been told its a bit industrial, but would like one good shopping day there!!!

I GUESS MY CONCERN IS: WILL I BE DISSAPOINTED IN COMO ITSELF (in the historic center next to the cathedral) in terms of charm? Granted, we are only staying 5 nights, and do plan to see other places. I just don't want to arrive and be underwhelmed.

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP!

neckervd Jan 16th, 2024 08:43 AM

So you will fly in and out of MXP, will visit Arosa and lake como and will have a car?
Be aware that your car should be equipped with snow tires, may be studded tires as the roads between Lake Como and Arosa are going through the Alps.
The best itinerary is Menagio - Lugano - Bellinzona - San Bernardino tunnel - Thusis - Chur - Arosa.
The most scenic one, but the most snowy one would be Menaggio - Chiavenna - Silvaplauna - Julier Pass - Thusis - Chur - Arosa.

By public transport, the journey from Varenna to Arosa takes 7 hrs either via Tirano - Bernina Pass - Albula Pass - Chur (very scenic itinerary)
or via Monza - Bellinzona - Postbus - Chur.
If Varenna or Menaggio looks too "dead" for you in March, Lugano would of course be a good alternative:
tons of restaurants, shops, children playgrounds....
1 cog wheel railway, 2 rope railways and 3 gondolas going to the viewpoints in the surroundings.
trains to Varese - Malpensa airport (1 1/2 hrs journey) every hr,
trains to Como - Milan city every hr
frequent buses to the scenic villages in the neighbourhood (and to Menaggio!),
daily boats to Gandria, Morcote, Campione and Porto Ceresio during the whole month of March
shorter and easier transport to Arosa,

BTW I suppose you know that it would be much easier to stay along Lake Maggiore (close to MXP airport) instead of Lake Como (farther away)
and to ski in the Swiss Canton of Valais, way closer to MXP than Arosa.
.

neckervd Jan 16th, 2024 08:45 AM

BTW: Cernobbio IS on teh Western side of Lake Como, close to Como and last stop of the local boats in the Bay of Como, running all the year round.

jlewfirtree Jan 16th, 2024 08:50 AM

Thank you so much for this advice. We had our hearts set on Lake Como AND Arosa (after MUCH deliberation). We are already booked in Arosa (which we chose over Zermatt). We will have an Audi A4 SUV.

Can you tell me, what is Como itself like? Is it disappointing (in terms of beauty and charm) compared to Varenna? Or other smaller towns? Is there enough "charm" there (historic beauty, natural beauty, chic / cute shops)? Or is Como itself more "industrial" and not as attractive for a tourist?

As for the drive, we were going to go VIA A13. I was HOPING to come back (if we stayed in VARENNA) via St. Moritz. Are you saying those roads will not be passable without snow tires?

Jean Jan 16th, 2024 05:37 PM

I'm not a fan of Como, and that would probably be my last choice. It has history, there are nice views, and most shops/restaurants/hotels are open year-round, but it's not as charming and picturesque as many other towns. If you were planning lots of excursions, it might make some sense.

I would prefer to stay near the middle of lake in order to make short excursions on the mid-lake ferry that serves Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio and Cadenabbia. You can take your car on this ferry if you wanted to explore along the eastern shore. You'll be arriving at the lake just as the ferry service increases (March 18th), so things will be opening up pretty much everywhere, esp. if the weather is nice. (Your dates in March 2023 in Menaggio... temps reached about 60F every day but dropped to the 30s overnight.)

neckervd Jan 17th, 2024 05:40 AM

Como: i have nothing to add to what Jean told you. Yes, it is an industiral town (textile industry) although it's not ugly at al (Lecco is much worse)l. But it has not the same charme as th midlake villages or as most Lake Lugano towns and villages.
SNOW TIRES ARE NOT COMPULSORY in Switzerland, but NO CAR INSURANCE WILL PAY anything in case of an accident due to snow or ice if your car is not equipped with them.
The road from Arosa - Chur to St. Moritz goes over the Julier Pass (7500 ft). There will be a lot of snow on both sides of the raod for sure. The road itself may be dry (if the weather is fine), or covered with some snow or black ice if the weather is bad. Nobody knows. The Maloja Pass between St. Moritz and Lake Como is only 6000 ft high. But even there, it cannot be guaranteed that all 9 hairpin curves will be completely free of ice.
If the weather is fine, you will have no problem. Immediately after snowfall of rainfall to the frozen ground, things may gte more serious.
Therefore, if you rent a car on a Swiss airport during winter, it will automatically be equipped with snow tires.

For all these reasons, I usually recommend to people landing at MXP to stay at Stresa/Lake Maggiore (some 30 min by car from the airport) and Crans-Montana, another 3 hrs away (with the possibilitxy to avoid the Simplon Pass by using the car shuttle trains Iselle - Brig).

jlewfirtree Jan 17th, 2024 06:16 AM

Thank you for this feedback. SOME MORE QUESTIONS:

1. So we are actually Landing in MILAN, renting the car from Milan Malpensa, driving from there TO AROSA, and then BACK AGAIN to COMO. Will we need to get snow tires even if we only drive to Arosa along the main highway?

2. As far as if COMO is suitable for us / IF I will find it disappointing. We will be there March 16 - 22 (departing early am). During these days we want to EXPLORE LAKE COMO, (spend 1 day on FERRIES to Bellagio and Varenna FROM COMO), spend 1 day in BERGAMO, spend 1 day SHOPPING in MILAN (UNLESS SHOPPING IN COMO IS JUST AS GOOD???). I'm worried about the weather at this time of year, so figured that COMO TOWN itself MIGHT be a good solution in case the weather IS TERRIBLE (we can then maybe go to VERONA or SOMEPLACE ELSE for day trip).

We are booked in the COMO old town (Pedestrian area) close to the Duomo. I'd like the convenience of some restaurants closeby, grocery store (my kids are picky eaters), the direct train to MILAN. IF we are inside the Pedestrian area of COMO (with car in parking lot to use if we need), will it be charming enough? Or will it still have an industrial feel? I know that Varenna ALSO has direct train access to Milan (but further away).

Jean Jan 17th, 2024 08:12 AM

I still wouldn't pick Como if you want that lovely, Lake Como experience. The fast ferry from Como to the mid-lake towns isn't terribly comfortable and views out the small-ish windows aren't great. I certainly wouldn't want to do that ride more than one round-trip.

Would you train or drive to Bergamo??? The train from Como would take nearly 2 hours each way, and you'd change trains in Milan. Driving from Como would take almost as long, and then you have to deal with the ZTLs in both Como and Bergamo. FYI, the main train station in Como is outside the pedestrian zone, so with small children you'd want to taxi to/from the station which adds to your overall travel time. I just don't think a day trip to Bergamo from Lake Como makes sense.

Como to Verona by train is at least 2.5 hours each way, again changing trains in Milan. Driving is no faster, plus you'd have the parking and ZTLs issues. Makes even less sense.

The shopping in Milan is miles beyond anything you'd find in the lake towns, but it does depend a little on what sort of "shopping" you want. Locally-made products, souvenirs, etc., or clothing, shoes, fashion, etc. You'll find some of both types everywhere, but Milan shopping (actual or of the "window" variety) is mostly fashion related.

If Bergamo and a day in Milan are high on your list, you should spend a couple of nights IN Milan. Bergamo is less than an hour from Milan on a direct/no-change train, and there are some great sights, dining options, etc., in Milan. If you opt to stay in Milan, you should return the car at Malpensa and take the Malpensa Express train into the city. Driving in Milan and figuring out the ZTL is crazy.

Of course, I can't predict the weather, but I think you're worrying too much about weather at Lake Como at that time. For your dates in March 2023 and March 2022, temps in Menaggio (mid-lake) reached about 60F every day. No rain. Temps drop quickly after sundown, and you may want later starts in the morning until temps rise a bit, but the weather records indicate nice, clear days. You'll have warm attire for your days in Arosa, so you'd certainly be prepared for the conditions.

jlewfirtree Jan 17th, 2024 09:02 AM

Okay. Again, good info. So you would choose Varenna over Como? What about Bellagio? Also, is it just that Como is less charming? It looks to be fairly chic and picturesque. Is it like the difference between Sorrento and Ravello (amalfi coast)? I'm just trying to get a sense.

What about Chernobbio (right next to COMO)?

Jean Jan 17th, 2024 05:04 PM

My choice would be Varenna or Bellagio. Picking a hotel with some sort of parking situation would be imperative.

We've stayed at the Hotel du Lac in Varenna without a car, but I think they have an on-site parking lot. You'd have to inquire about adding beds for the kids. It's a comfortable and charming hotel, a short walk to the ferry dock and a little longer walk to the train station.

https://www.albergodulac.com/en-GB/h...a-lago-di-como

My favorite hotel in Bellagio is the Albergo Florence, but apparently it won't open until the "end of March." You could inquire as to an exact date. You'd also have to ask about beds for 2 kids as the website shows rooms only accommodating up to 3 people.

https://www.hotelflorencebellagio.it/en/

A good option for you in Bellagio would be Residence La Limonera which offers apartments of different sizes, all with kitchenettes. There used to be a parking lot on-site, but now they offer parking "nearby."

https://www.residencelalimonera.com/

Jean Jan 17th, 2024 05:32 PM

Cernobbio... I haven't spent time there other than for a wander at the Villa d'Este.

I get the sense you're resisting the idea of staying in the mid-lake area...

HappyTrvlr Jan 17th, 2024 06:51 PM

Do NOT stay in the city of Como! It is a city with a silk manufacturing history. It has a small medieval section. But it is so much nicer mid lake. Forget the city of Como! Go north on the lake to the mid region with Bellagio and Varenna, Menaggio, Tremezzo, Cadenabbia and Lenno.
We always stay ( 4 trips there) high up on the hill in Bellagio with great views. Lots of good dining. A couple of laundries in town.
Hotel Belvedere has views and parking, a rarity.Parking is very hard to find so staying at Hotel Belvedere would be perfect since you will have a car. Lake Como is the only place we don’t have a car.

neckervd Jan 18th, 2024 03:04 AM

"Will we need to get snow tires even if we only drive to Arosa along the main highway?"
Nobody can predict the weather. So the correct answer is: may be yes, may be no.
San Bernardino is at 6400ft and Arosa is at 5800 ft.

Como SG - Bergamo takes 1 hr 35 min:
FNM Train from Como SAN GIOVANNI to Sesto San Giovanni plus bus (Nordest Trasporti) to Bergamo Autostazione
Como LAGO - Verona takes 2 3/4 hrs, change at Como Camerlata and Milan C

Como Lago is the railway station close to the Duomo. Como San Giovanni is farther away and can be reached by Como Citybus

Jean Jan 18th, 2024 08:03 AM

Hotel Belvedere in Bellagio is lovely, but I wouldn't stay there with two small children (although we still don't know the kids' ages). It's about a half-mile walk round trip (uphill on return) between the hotel and, say, the ferry dock. Shopping and many restaurants, food stores and gelato are all beyond that. Once you've parked the car in Bellagio, you really don't want to move it unless you make an excursion away from the town. It helps that you'd be in this area mid-week and early in the season, but I wouldn't count on parking being readily available everywhere.

HappyTrvlr Jan 18th, 2024 02:07 PM

You seem determined to stay in the city of Como. I think you will regret your choice when you travel to more beautiful section of the lake and see the charming towns there. The posters here are trying to help you avoid that mistake!!
You need a parking place to leave your car. We went through a lot to find one on our first trip there which is the reason we ended up at Hotel Belvedere as they offer parking, a rarity. I don’t imagine AirBnBs will have them.

scdreamer Jan 18th, 2024 02:13 PM

We're going to be at Lake Como for nine days in September - we will also have a car. We found what appears to be a lovely airbnb in Argegno - with a large lakeview terrace and parking. The village is small and within walking distance (the description suggests it's a good place for children, because there are pedestrian only streets heading into the village and to the lake.) Walking distance to the ferry. We plan on exploring the villages around the lake and possibly beyond. If you look at the AIRBNB site - the place is called "Orange Spot, lake view, terraces, and Private Garage." Less than a hotel rate. Happy travels!

bvlenci Jan 20th, 2024 06:59 AM

Given the things you want to do, I think you should consider spending most of the time in Milan. You heard that Milan is "industrial". It's a large city, and has its industrial areas, but the center of Milan is elegant and vibrant. We go there nearly every year, and plan to go there this February. Take the children to the roof of the cathedral, where they will be entranced by the Gothic pillars and gargoyles.

There is a huge medieval castle (Castello Sforzesco) right in the center of the city. The Galleria is a beautiful glass-domed shopping mecca. You didn't mention art or music, but Milan has great museums and concerts.

You can visit Bergamo from Milan much more easily than from Como, and you could easily take a day trip to Varenna. My husband went to university in Milan, and he and his friends often took day trips to the lake. You could make both trips easily by train, just as quickly as driving.

Lake Como is not one of my favourite places, although I know many people love it. In your case, it doesn't seem a good fit with your interests, and it has little of interest to children.

suitheadcase Jan 20th, 2024 03:55 PM

Varenna gets my vote . We stayed there a few years ago and are booked there this summer. Unlike the other towns, the VERY busy road which goes around the lake is behind and up the hill from town. There’s no traffic noise or cars in the center. The main parking garage is down near Hotel Caprise…most park there. Theres a short ferry to Bellagio , from which you can go to many towns.

jlewfirtree Jan 22nd, 2024 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jean (Post 17527181)
Hotel Belvedere in Bellagio is lovely, but I wouldn't stay there with two small children (although we still don't know the kids' ages). It's about a half-mile walk round trip (uphill on return) between the hotel and, say, the ferry dock. Shopping and many restaurants, food stores and gelato are all beyond that. Once you've parked the car in Bellagio, you really don't want to move it unless you make an excursion away from the town. It helps that you'd be in this area mid-week and early in the season, but I wouldn't count on parking being readily available everywhere.

HELLO! I'm only now seeing these responses JEAN and OTHERS. Thank you very much for the help!!!

I will admit, I'm finding planning this trip extremely stressful

THE CHILDREN ARE 4.5 and 7.5 -- They have traveled A LOT. They have never been to a theme park. They like creative play and can entertain themselves in most places. WE WILL LEAVE STROLLER HOME.

AS OF NOW, this is our PLAN:

1. Arrive Milan MXP 9am on March 11, Get car with snow tires and make our way SLOWLY to AROSA (stopping often if needed!) - CONSIDERING spending first night in LUGANO.
2. AROSA March 11 - 16
3. Stop someplace near ST. MORITZ for one night on March 16.
4. MARCH 17: Drive from St. Moritz AREA to VARENNA. Spend the day. TAKE A CAR FERRY TO COMO? (Is this an OPTION)
4. COMO - March 17 - 22 (We booked a CHEAP Airbnb Next to Cathedral)
5. March 22 - depart MXP 9am.

I have yet to find a place in VARENNA that I like and that is in our budget. Its easily a few $1000 more to stay there. I don't think Bellagio is a great option for us. I've nixed Lecco. I will continue to look at VARENNA and if possible, cancel COMO booking.

We ARE OPEN to doing ANY OR ALL of the following during the COMO stay: BERGAMO (day trip). OR, since the COMO place is cheap, we stay ONE NIGHT in VERONA or BELLAGIO (leaving our stuff in the apartment we rented.)

WE WILL HAVE A CAR. I have looked at the train journey and its TOO COMPLICATED. I do not feel like transferring 3 trains to get where I need to go (even though I love trains). My kids aren't old enough to carry their own bags.


jlewfirtree Jan 22nd, 2024 09:54 AM

NOTE: I've Written to some hotels in BELLAGIO and VARENNA that ARE NOT OPEN YET on our dates. I DO 100% realize that mid-lake is more beautiful, but I remain concerned that for the dates of MARCH 17 - 22 we might find places closed or "dead" and that might, in itself, be a disappointment (more than staying in COMO if como is less picturesque, but has more open and a pedestrian area to wander). I continue to receive mixed information about this, and still do not fully understand, and many people commenting on the thread travelled in peak season.

neckervd Jan 22nd, 2024 11:20 AM

You will have to pay a road toll for Italian Pedemontana moterway
https://apl.pedemontana.com/welcome
Once in Switzerland, you need the Swiss sticker for A2 and A13.
You can get it at the Swiss border post of Chiasso Brogeda.
Surses is not the name of a village, but of a Valley.
Bath and Sauna at St. Moritz: https://www.ovaverva.ch/en/sauna
There is no car ferrry from Varenna to Como, but to Menaggio
Count about 1 1/2 hrs fo the drive from Varenna to MXP (toll roads).

bvlenci Jan 23rd, 2024 03:52 AM

You seem sort of stuck on Lake Como. For what you want to do, Necker's advice for Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano sound like the better option.

Lake Como is very much a destination for Americans and British people. It was the most anglicized place I've ever been in Italy. Once when we were ordering lunch, the waitress asked us if we could speak English.

I can confirm that in Bellagio everything seemed to be uphill. In the center, there were very few shops that weren't either boutiques or souvenir shops. Even the pharmacy was prevalently for tourists, with a long route through the place to multiply the temptation, as they do in IKEA.

Everything closed very early by Italian standards, even the restaurants. We walked downhill to a restaurant, because parking in the center was practically impossible. We hoped to take a bus back uphill after dinner, but they had stopped running at an awfully early hour. We had a lot of trouble finding a taxi. We called several, but only one would take us, after a long wait. We shared it with an English guy who hadn't been able to get a taxi at all.

I liked Varenna better, but it was just slightly less touristy than Bellagio. Also we were just there for the day, so I don't know if they rolled up the sidewalk in the evenings as they did in Bellagio. (It's possible that lots of bars and other night spots were open in Bellagio, but we don't drink, and we're used to dining at 8PM. Also we were there in early June, so maybe it's more lively in July and August, and also even more crowded )

I know that lots of people love Lake Como, including Jean, whose opinion I respect highly. Many people enjoy touring the villas, but that's not a favourite activity for me. There are some nice walks and hikes, but there was an early heat wave going on, and a lakeside walk of about an hour wiped us out. All I can say is that we were there for three days, which was at least one day too many for me.

I've never been to Lake Maggiore, but relatives of ours go there often and enjoy it. We stopped in Lugano on our way home from Switzerland, and it was a beautiful lake. We saw a nice playground, right by the lake, which your children probably would enjoy. (I didn't see any playground at Lake Como, but we only saw the two towns.) I really think one of these would be more suitable than Lake Como, if you don't trust me when I say that Milan is refined and elegant, and not an industrial dump.

Even staying in Bergamo might be better. Bergamo Alta is very beautiful, but maybe not a great transportation hub.


neckervd Jan 23rd, 2024 07:08 AM

bvlenci, you are so rjght!!
But during the years, I learnd in this forum, that for rmost American andAsian people, Italy consists only of
Varenna/Bellagio, Ortisei, Venice, 5Terre, Florence, Rome, Amalfi, and Matera;
For Switzerland it's Wengen/Muerren/Grindelwald, Lucerne, Zurich and Bernina Express;
for Greece: Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Nafplio, Athens;
for Austria:: Hallstatt, Salzburg, Vienna;
for Turkey: Urgup/Goreme, Istanbul;
for Spain: San Sebastian, Barcelona, Madrid, Granada and Sevilla (with a daytrip to Morocco);
etc. etc.
There are some exceptions, however, like Melnq or Adelaiden........

Melnq8 Jan 23rd, 2024 07:32 AM

Always happy to be an exception:)

jlewfirtree Jan 23rd, 2024 07:54 AM

Hello again! I so appreciate all of these perspectives - it helps me to form a clearer picture.

The reality is that we are celebrating my husbands BIG bday and for 10 years we have PLANNED on taking him to the Swiss alps. The BEST FLIGHT was into MXP.

I DONT SKI. I DONT LIKE COLD WEATHER. After A LOT of deliberation, WE CHOSE AROSA (it was between Zermatt, AROSA, or Adelboden). SO, while I appreciate the suggestions to completely reconceptualize this trip. In brief: WE ARE GOING TO AROSA.

I noticed ON THE WAY to Arosa (from MXP - our booked flights) you pass Lake Como. And so, the idea to piggyback COMO was born.

I appreciate the feedback on the other lakes, but this is the itinerary. I’m just trying to make the best choices I can based on this framework. And also, yes, we are ALSO interested POTENTIALLY in Bergamo or even VERONA (if Como SUCKS - AND WE NEED TO PIVOT).

We WILL have a car (it’s just easier for our routes with little kids). Though I do wish there was DIRECT TRAINS (switching trains 3 times isn’t an option for us).

So I’m not sure if people could refrain from backhandedly criticizing me as being a typical “American.” You really know nothing about me or where around the world I’ve lived (spoiler alert: many places).


ALSO, if I was planning a trip to Lake Como in the summer, I would probably try to stay in a small village to avoid the crowds. I might even consider a different lake in peak season — since I would be able to swim, or enjoy warm weather type stuff. AGAIN, we are going MARCH 16 - 22, so I’m trying to make the best choices I can given that it is out of season.

Im sensing most people really don’t like COMO, and prefer VARENNA. I also sense that even BERGAMO might be better (though someone else had said lake Como is still preferred).

these are the kinds of things we like to do: eat good food, be in quaint picturesque places, wander around gardens (exploring villa gardens sounds like a dream), explore cobble
stone streets, drink wine.

Kids: a playground, fun shops to look at, a comfortable home base (with a nice view out the window)

Here are my top places in ITALY so far:
1) MATERA
2) 20 years ago: Rome
3) 20 years ago: Ravello (preferred to Positano)
4) Ostuni (was there in April)
5) SARDINIA (teleport me)

I didn’t like NAPLES. VENICE would be too touristy for me now. FLORENCE is lovely, but can’t handle the tourists. Alberrobello was cute but too touristy (we stayed in a trulli on a farm in the middle of nowhere and preferred that). Lecce was OKAY, but wasn’t crazy about the surrounding towns.




jlewfirtree Jan 23rd, 2024 08:30 AM

Also: if I was planning a vacation to Italy, I would not plan to go to Lake Como in March.

This is essentially a vacation to a Switzerland ski village (AROSA), that “just so happens” to have entry and exit at MXP. (I am well aware that there are more convenient ski villages than the one my husband chose. Yet here I am.)

We want to see some villas and explore the architecture and gardens (I assume SOME spring flowers MIGHT be starting then?!?)

We want to eat good food at restaurants that are easy to get to (and prefer to have a few choices and not just 3 restaurants).

We would like to go on Moderate HIKES.

We would like to shop at a local supermarket and stock up on delicious Italian produce and cheese and treats.

I would like to shop for shoes and maybe some new clothes.

The kids would like Gelato.

Im originally from NYC, and im just not into the idea of being in a BIG CITY right now. For this (and other) reasons, Milan simply doesn’t interest me (though I’d like to do a day trip).

IF I was planning a trip to Italy, I would probably focus on Calabria.


neckervd Jan 23rd, 2024 08:46 AM

Sorry! I didn't want to offend you.
It's YOUR tirp. We just try to show alternatives and pros and cons in order to help you do the things YOU like best..
And you will drive along (and even accross) Lake Lugano anyway on your drive on the motorway A2 from Chiasso Brogedea (Swiss border) to Bellinzona.
BTW: the route all along Lake Maggiore up to Bellinzona wouldn't be much longer in miles, but in driving time.

Lecce is fine for people interested in archeology or in typically Italian organized beaches (San Cataldo. I visited Matera, Alberobello, Castellana Caves and Ostuni many decades ago, when I worked in Bari. Nowadays, Ostuni and Alberobello got too touristy. I usually stop over in Apulia (Tremiti Islands, Vieste, Baia delle Zagqare, Riserva and beaches of Torre Guaceto, etc.) on the way to Greece.
I DID LIKE Naples, not only because it's THE transport hub for the whole area, and beacuse of it's outstanding museums, but just as a typically (somewhat chaotic) Mediterranean city.

jlewfirtree Jan 23rd, 2024 08:54 AM

No worries! It takes a LOT to offend me (and you haven’t).

I do like the look of Lugano (but why is it so expensive!?) we will definitely take a day trip there to explore.

i like the IDEA of Naples (I was there 20 years ago), but the reality was that it was too chaotic for me (and i LIKE INDIAN CITIES!!!!) It was also a little dirty for me AND, someone tried to steal my mother’s watch - but MOM AND I FOUGHT HIM OFF!!!! Then I chased him down the street screaming and making a scene (don’t F With NYC women - a dumb move in retrospect.)

LECCE was nice in the center, but the whole area felt a little “depressed” to me and there was a lot of fascist / communist style architecture.

My main concern is that COMO TOWN Itself will be like either of these places… I haven’t explored much of northern Italy. If it’s simply not “as quaint” we can deal with that…we will do day trips. I just hope it’s not unappealing to me in the ways LECCE and NAPLES were.

neckervd Jan 23rd, 2024 09:04 AM

There are many shoe factories and shoe outlets in the Provinces of Varese and Como. Ask locals for the best places.
The biggest SWISS shoppping center along your itinerary is Serfontana at Morbio, close to motorway A2. Prices in Switzerland are usually higher than in Italy, however..

Melnq8 Jan 23rd, 2024 09:11 AM

I do like the look of Lugano (but why is it so expensive!?) we will definitely take a day trip there to explore.

Because it's in Switzerland. Switzerland is expensive, full stop.

jlewfirtree Jan 23rd, 2024 09:15 AM

Haha! Yeah, I'll take Italian prices (AND FOOD!!!!)

neckervd Jan 23rd, 2024 09:32 AM

NO, Como isn't that bad! It's a normal NORTH Italian city, neither particuilarly scenic nor ugly. The local populaton is very friendly and helpful if you ask them something. Otherwise they let you in peace.
Only the many African refugees who try to enter illegally into Switzerland and then to Germany may cause some problems.
There is just one fascist building at Como (La Casa del Fascio), close to the Duomo, but rather hidden and not dominant at all. We are far away from the typycal dominance of fascist architecure, like in Brescia, EUR in Rome, Rhodos Post office and cathedral, or along the harbours of Lakki/Leros Island and Pothi/Kalymnos..

jlewfirtree Jan 23rd, 2024 09:34 AM

:)La Casa del Fascio:lol:

coral22 Jan 23rd, 2024 11:03 AM

What a fantastic wife to make this dream trip possible for your husband on his special birthday!
And also your efforts in making this easy on your children is admirable. I totally agree with the car. It will be great!

My first thought when I saw your dates was, that is a shame you are little early for Lake Como. We were in Varenna in October we had warm, perfect weather. We did comment, what do you do if it is rainy or cold, there is not a lot of indoor activity here. We loved it, but it definitely seemed like a couples location. And I would imagine it will not be all open then.

Menaggio seemed more family friendly, with more flat areas and running around space. The marina and the town square are lovely. I notice on Booking.com, there are several reasonable apartments available, and maybe a washing machine and a kitchen would be nice. Then you would be able to go to different directions on the ferry, playing off of the weather. And who knows how to predict that these days. The ferry is an activity, too. After that, I would head down to Milan, turn in your car and be be situated for your flight. You could spend a couple nights there and pursue some indoor options.

You can also back yourself up with 2 different sets of cancellable reservations, and watch the weather to help decide which one to use. Enjoy!

Jean Jan 23rd, 2024 04:14 PM

I'll echo coral22's mention of Menaggio... This is one of the towns I suggested in my first post (#5) of this thread. It has a larger year-round population, so most things don't close during what is the off season for towns like Bellagio and Varenna. There are some nice hikes in the hills above town (weather permitting) and a lovely lakeside promenade for the passegiata. Villa Balbianello and Villa Carlotta are fairly close by car or bus, and Varenna and Bellagio are only a few minutes away by ferry. There are castle ruins in the hills above Varenna, and the views from there are amazing. The TI office in town can give you bus info to reach it, and you can bus or walk back down. You could drive from Menaggio to Lugano in about 45 minutes, and it's just a few minutes farther to reach Swissminiatur, which your kids might enjoy (weather permitting). It opens March 16th.

https://www.swissminiatur.ch/the-park/?lang=en



FWIW, we've never visited Lake Como in high season, and I love being there when it's quiet(er) and temps are cool. It just doesn't appeal to me in that summer holiday way. And the town of Como doesn't appeal to me at any time of year.


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