Kopp, your trip sounds like a dream....except the part about your husband and the dumplings. :-))

I got chills when I read about the Russian invasion in 1968. That must have been a strange time for your DH to be there, but what a fascinating story he has to tell.

I can't wait to hear more.

Hook 'em Horns!!

Wow, what a fun time. I just love the way the Europeans come out at night, and so many of the cities have squares where everyone can go. I really noticed this when I was in Rome some years ago. It was very warm and at night the squares were packed with people, families, young people, socalizing, having dinner or a gelato at cafes, spilling out onto the side walks. Very cool. Sounds like you hit the city at just the right time.

Part 4: Six Days in Berlin
Moevenpick Hotel – moevenpick-hotels.com/hotels/berlin

At hotel check-in, we were asked if we wanted an upgraded room for a slight 15 Euro increase. Upon viewing the room, I had to suppress a chuckle. I’ll just say that if you like having your bathtub in the open room next to the bed, this is the room for you. No thanks. When I take a bath, I want peace and quiet, that “Calgon, take me away” dreamlike state; not the “Aren’t you done yet? You’re steaming up the place” ranting! Our standard room was quite nice, not overly large, but certainly sufficient. The air conditioning would end up being a problem, but the hotel was kind enough to give us a fan so we could sleep comfortably. Each morning, we were treated once again to a sumptuous buffet, and we especially enjoyed the fresh fruits. Strawberries and cherries were in season, so sampling pastries, strudels, nectars, and the sweetest berries ever made for a delightful treat.

There was a wonderful little Italian restaurant near our hotel, where we had our first German-Italian pizza of the trip. Our friends had never had pizza like this, the crust so thin and crisp, the toppings so delicious. My favorite is still the one with the arugula on top, and they remarked it looked like something we’d feed the cattle back home. But after one sampling, they were hooked! Berlin is packed with good restaurants, and the portions are so very large. We dined on delicious dishes such as Zuricher Geschnatzlets, Jagerschnitzel, Kasespatzli, Pfeffer Schweinsteak, and Schweinschnitzel, and of course Apfelstrudel mit rahmsauce!! It’s amazing our pants could still zip up!

While sitting at a sidewalk café one night for dinner, we hear sirens, then see one police car after another, blocking off the intersection. We thought at first a dignitary was coming into town, but no. Then the rumbling came, followed by shouts and cheers. It was a parade of rollerskaters – literally thousands of them, skating down the middle of the street, dressed in all kinds of colorful outfits. They kept coming for what seemed 20 or 30 minutes, all packed in together. Just another one of those “had to be there” moments.

Before any trip, we read as much as we can about that country’s history, its people and traditions. I must admit that my father was not real keen on our visiting Germany. Unfortunately for him, the events that occurred in the years surrounding 1945 have left a scar that has never healed. “Why would you want to go there?” he asked. For him, it would be too difficult. For us, we needed to better understand and visualize events that have shaped our lives. Tracing the remnants of the Wall at the Topography of Terror and the Eastside Gallery, walking past the border crossing at Checkpoint Charlie, and standing in the square where the troops marched under the Brandenburg Gate, these are all very poignant reminders of a bygone era. We had very mixed feelings as we viewed the many tourist shops selling mementos of the war, from soldiers’ medals and uniforms, pieces of the Wall, and before-and-after pictures of the bombings.

Today, Berlin is a vibrant, thriving, modern metropolis. Construction cranes are everywhere, glass buildings dominate the skyline, and vacant lots take the place of bombed-out buildings. Shopping centers are very large, filled with everything imaginable, especially the famous KaDeWe. It would take days to see everything here. (We did, however, find the ice cream shop, and had a very delicious and refreshing sundae one afternoon!)

Six days in Berlin was still not enough to see all that was on my list. So each day we’d prioritize, knowing that we’d be limited by the weather and our ability to keep going and going in the heat. One day when we were on the #100 bus taking a scenic ride, a sign showed the temperature to be 39°C., which converts to 102°F. That’s hot, folks. But as my Marine Corps brother always says when faced with an intolerable situation, “Forward march,” pointing straight ahead, leading the pack. Our poor friends did not fare as well. They spent most afternoons back at the hotel, taking several cold showers daily just to cool down.

Next: Behold the treasures!

I would have been like your friends, melting away. I HATE really hot weather. Except for the lack of daylight, I really enjoyed my time in Copenhagen and Stockholm this last winter. The highs for the day in the mid to low 20's!!! I'm really enjoying this report. My brother and I want to do a trip to Germany and perhaps parts of Switzerland in the next couple of years and there isn't a lot about these areas compared to say London, Paris, and Italy, so this is great. Keep reporting!!!!!

Hi crefloors - I remember that wonderful report of yours! Something about a cannon rings a bell..

Because of the heat problems this summer, we'll probably change our travel plans, and try to go more in off season than summer. It will most likely mean curtailing our Swiss trips a bit, as hiking in March isn't feasible on the high trails.

Personally, I find it much easier on my aging body to travel in cooler weather than hot heat. You can always put on another jacket or scarf. But how much clothing can you take off, and just how much are you going to spend on drinks each day, not so much for refreshment but for combating dehydration?

I think it was just our bad luck to hit the heat wave, and lots of people have reported the same. But for us, we're retired and have flexibility. So I think we'll stick to spring and fall.

Thanks for the comments. It helps to keep me focused!

(Berlin, continued)

Purchasing a three-day museum pass was a great deal! For little more than a one-museum ticket, we took in most of what Berlin had to offer. The Pergamon Museum, famous for its Altar and the Ishtar Gate, was absolutely stunning! Hot as a sauna inside, tours were everywhere, making it almost impossible to breathe. It was amusing to watch the guards continually calling out, “Achtung,” and wave their finger at someone to indicate “Can’t you see that’s 3,000 years old – don’t sit there or touch that!” We also visited the Old Museum, with its collection of sculptures and paintings; the Egyptian Museum, showcasing the lovely bust of Queen Nefertiti; and the Kulturforum’s Old Master’s Gallery, full of beautifully-restored religious art, including the superb “The Netherlandish Proverbs” by Peter Bruegel the Elder. We were pleasantly surprised by the lack of tourists at the Kunstgeweremuseum (Museum of Applied Art). This is one of those “do not miss” places, filled with an outstanding collection of ceramics, porcelain, reliquaries, and art.

A few weeks before our departure, I received a call from the Reichstag restaurant that my scheduled reservation was no longer available as government officials were using it that day. No problem; we switched to a different date. When we arrived at the designated entrance on the new date, we were denied entrance as the restaurant was closed. “It’s always closed on Wednesdays,” the security guard told us. Yes, but they called and changed it and... and… Alas, we were out of luck. No lunch, no Reichstag, no view.

The Berlin Cathedral is nothing short of magnificent. Words cannot possibly describe its beauty. Upon entering, the organ was playing beautiful meditation music. We must have sat there an hour just gazing at the wonder before us. My journal entry simply states, “WOW”! The organ has 7200 pipes, and the 8 ceiling panel mosaics have 500,000 tiny tiles in each panel. The stained glass windows of the chancel are vibrant in their color, yet pastoral in their scenes. The tombs of Friedrich I and his second wife Sophie Charlotte are intricately carved, ornate baroque pieces of art. At one end is the figure of a woman overcome by grief, conveying the image of one’s own mortality. Very poignant. Down a flight of stairs is the crypt, where around 90 tombs are found, including many of the past kings and queens. Some are quite plain, while others are exquisitely ornate. Outside, the Dom stands boldly in a park-like setting, with fountains and grassy areas for rest and inspiration. People of all ages were cooling off in the water, while others enjoyed the warmth of the day under a tree, eating a picnic.

While the Zoological Gardens wasn’t high on our list for a visit, it seemed the logical place to go on our Monday morning as most everything else was closed for the day. This turned out to be such a pleasant outing. The animals had just been fed, so they were quite rambunctious and playful. Too much so for the rhinoceros. Or maybe we just got too close. But when he turned his head with that pointy horn straight at me, and snorted what I called the “death chant,” it was time to run! Yes, there was a fence, but somehow I think if he wanted me for breakfast, that fence wouldn’t have stopped him. Walking down the tree-lined pathways to each area, it felt like we were on a world tour. The housing for the animals was very exotic, resembling the Cotswolds of England with the thatched roofs, the onion dome churches of Russia, the palaces of Arabia, or the Egyptian ruins. We purchased the combination ticket, which included entrance to the adjacent Aquarium. Not only were there brilliantly-colored fish, but reptiles of all shapes and sizes – kind of grossed me out. I’ve had too many childhood nightmares about these creatures coming through my windows to appreciate them like the others did.

The weather kept increasing in temperature and we were just plum tuckered out, so we toyed with the idea of skipping our daytrip to Potsdam. But after our nightly cocktail hour one evening, feeling good about what we’d been able to do so far, we decided to head out there in the morning. And what a wonderful day it turned out to be! Taking the U-Bahn, then the bus, we headed straight to the Sanssouci ticket office for our timed tickets, buying again the combination ticket. Tours groups crowded the entranceway, and we were prepared for a long wait. But there were 4 spaces left on the tour leaving in 10 minutes! OH MY GOSH! Even after all the reading we’d done, we were so blown away by the massiveness and splendor of these palaces, gardens, forests, and teahouses. Words such as “a masterpiece of Frederician rococo” and “ostentatiousness in abundance” only begin to describe the halls of the Sanssouci and the New Palace. Filled with treasures from the days of the Prussians, these exquisite residences were almost too much for our senses and brains to capture. Artwork lined the walls, as well as gold, marble, beautifully restored furniture – the list could go on. The gardens surrounding the palaces have beautifully manicured lawns, pathways, and flowers everywhere, and park benches in the cool of the forests were a welcome relief from the blazing sun. The Dragon House provided a lovely courtyard for our lunch, including sandwiches, salad, and ice cream.

After such a lovely day, leaving so much yet unseen, we quickly decided that on our next trip to Berlin, we’ll stay in one of the Potsdam hotels for a few days. There is way too much left to explore here not to return.

Our last day was spent in the area of the Charlottenburg Palace. Taking the subway, we wandered through the town before heading to the palace. I was surprised to actually see a Woolworth’s, a throwback to the Five and Dimes of my childhood. This may sound odd, but I found it quite fun to wander the aisles (with a gentle tap-tap-tap of DH’s watch once in awhile), where I found a few needed treasures before heading to the Schloss. I have to admit that it did get a bit tiresome having to take guided tours through the palaces. None were in English, although they did hand out a printed text, but they seemed to drag on and on. I can appreciate the detail of the paintings or the chandeliers, but I thought 10 minutes in each room was a bit much. (And of course, we’d just visited Potsdam the previous day, and this place was no Potsdam.)

Our last hours were spent exploring the shopping districts, picking up those last-minute souvenirs, and taking a quick look at the unusual Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, with its three parts: the campanile, the fragments of the ruins from the bombings, and the prayer house. The blue glass windows that lined the walls with the figure of Christ hanging in the middle, the organ playing meditation music, left us at peace, knowing our German adventure was at a close.

At the curb in the morning, waiting for our taxi to the train station, a light sprinkling of rain started. Breathing in the coolness of the air renewed us, gave us hope that next week would not be so hot.

Next: Be Careful What You Wish For!

Ah kopp, finally a quiet afternoon and so I was able to read your most delightful trip report!! The heat, like Crefloors that gets to me also. You did fantastic! What a beautiful trip. I am looking forward to the next installment! Take care and thanks for sharing all the beautiful details of what you saw.

Hi LoveItaly, thanks for dropping by! ((k))

Part 5: Three Weeks in The Swiss Alps

Close your eyes. Say the word “Switzerland.”

What is the first thing that comes to your mind?

Is it the turquoise-colored glacier-fed lakes, picturesque lakeside villages, and boat rides? Glaciers and rugged snow-capped peaks? Mountain chalets with geranium window boxes? Fondue, raclette, and rosti? Cows, bells, and cheese? Yodeling and the alphorn? The many varieties of Alpenblumen, including Edelweiss, Enzian, and Bellflower? Gondolas, trams, trains, and the shrill of the “all aboard” whistle? Mountaintop restaurants after a long hike? Chocolates, ice cream, and apple strudel?

Thus ends my report of our three weeks in Switzerland!
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(Just kidding. This is only the appetizer. Are you hungry?)

Starving for your description of adventures in Switzerland, kopp. Please don't keep us waiting!

(I'm still trying to answer your question as to what comes first to mind. For me, maybe the flower-bedecked chalet set in an impossibly green meadow dotted with cows; a glacier-draped mountain rising behind. That's all one picture.)

A Week in Engelberg
Chalet Blumenweg – engelberg.ch
Hotel Europe – hoteleurope.ch

We love riding the Swiss trains. Our years of driving the mountain roads are long-gone. Watching the beautiful scenery from Germany into Switzerland, the lake districts, the mountains – well, it’s breathtaking. I love to open the windows and hear the chug-chug of the engine and feel the breeze on my face. Eating in the dining car is always a treat; not the cheapest meal in town, but it’s just one of those things that make the trip complete. On a previous visit we had purchased the First Class Swiss Half-Fare Card, so that would take quite a dent out of our train ticket costs the rest of this trip.

There are many chalet apartments available for rent. The extra space is a welcome luxury, and the price is generally half of what a hotel would be. And on long trips, it’s the little things that you sometimes miss the most, like ice cubes or a washer/dryer or even a home-cooked meal. This one-bedroom apartment was located just a short walk from the train station, had a well-stocked kitchen, and the bed was very comfortable. It was, however, disappointing to see graffiti on the buildings across the street. This is not supposed to happen in these little idyllic towns, but I guess the big city sprawl is happening even here. Too bad.

We had already booked and paid for the apartment by the time our friends decided to join us, and it was not an option to have them stay with us. So I booked them into a hotel just down the street, a very lovely turn-of-the-century building with a grand dining room and beautiful terrace, next to the town park. I reserved them a corner suite with a view of the mountains, very charming, furnished with antiques. The remark was made, “Oh, if only we were 20 again!”

This week saw a rapid change in the weather. Gone were the hot, sweltering days of Germany, replaced by a refreshing coolness, lots of clouds, and rain. Certainly not a problem as we came prepared with rain jackets. It just meant a bit more planning on whether to go up the mountain or stay low. This particular week was to be our “lake” week. Staying in Engelberg allowed us to be cool at night, yet close enough to Lake Lucerne, only an hour’s train ride away.

Purchasing the TellPass gave access to all this region had to offer, including:

Mt. Titlis – We rode their famous Rotair, which boasts as being the world’s first revolving tram, up to about 10,000 feet. The floor of the tram slowly makes a complete revolution as you progress up the mountain. Pretty nervy. At the summit, which is nothing more than an outcropping of rocks, there’s a very impressive multi-storied building with gift shops, restaurants, and terraces. Unbelievable. The Ice Flyer, basically a six-person chairlift, takes you up close and personal to the glacier crevasses. Our friends had never been on a chairlift, so this was a bit unsettling for their stomachs. There is also a glacier cave, carved right into the ice of the earth.

Pilatus – The Golden Round Trip begins with a boat ride from Lucerne, then onto the world’s steepest cog railway (with a 48% gradient). The views of the lake below were spectacular, until the clouds moved in. There’s a cliff’s-edge walk along the rim, and the wildflowers here were in full bloom, especially the little blue bell flowers and lots of pink and purple flowers of differing shapes. Chilled to the bone, we enjoyed a delicious barley soup in the restaurant before continuing our Golden Round Trip on the aerial tram. Reaching Frakmuntegg, we took several thrilling rides up and down the alpine toboggan, with gorgeous views of the now visible Lake Lucerne. After dining on a typical Swiss lunch (fondue, alpenmacaroni, schnitzel, bratwurst, apple strudel, ice cream), we finished the trip with the gondola, then the short bus ride back to Lucerne, and the train back to Engelberg.

Trubsee – This is a very easy, flat walk around a mirror-like lake, with the reflection of the glaciers onto the water. The trail is filled with wildflowers, and there are signs (in English) describing them. One in particular was known for being “beneficial for women’s problems.”

Lucerne and the lake villages – We spent many hours on the top deck of the lake’s paddle-steamers, enjoying the peacefulness of the lake. Even with the rains, the beautiful green hills and villages are breathtaking. The boat houses and gardens, the sunbathers on the shoreline, children frolicking in the water, and the walkers along the promenade provide for an escape from the tourists and noise of the city. Thoughts enter our minds of moving to Weggis or Vitznau. A possibility or far-fetched dream? Only time will tell.

Our friends were no longer hiking with us as their bones had hit their limits, so we kind of split up during the last days of their journeys with us. They stayed behind in Engelberg and enjoyed wandering through the town or just relaxing in the park.





One day in particular we hit the jackpot. It was the Swiss National Day, August 1st. Celebrations were all over Switzerland, with towns having fairs and fireworks. Engelberg came alive that day. The streets were filled with food booths, games for the children, music, oom-pah bands, alphorns, parades, and even the requisite speech by the mayor. But the most fun of all was our little side trip to the hilltop village of Burgenstock. Perched on a hill overlooking the lake, accessible only by boat and then a funicular, the views of the lake here are magnificent. The village courtyard (about the size of a tennis court) was filled with the sounds of polka music, and people were singing, clapping, eating, and drinking. Oh, what merriment! For only 6 CHF, we sampled “brat-chas,” a combination of melted cheese and apple wine served over bread. So yummy!

We are always amazed at the engineering abilities of the Swiss. The mountain transportation available is remarkable, making remote areas accessible to so many people. We thought we had seen it all. However, only a half-hour cliffside walk from Burgenstock is a trail that leads to an unbelievable elevator perched on a cliff over the lake. Built in 1872, this is Europe’s highest and fastest outdoor elevator, leading to the Hametschwand Summit. And of course, there’s a full-service restaurant on top. Best to have a light lunch, though, as you may lose it on the ride back down!

That about sums up Engelberg. Our friends departed at the end of this week, while we continued our journey.

Next: The Mighty Matterhorn

Oh my goodness kopp, can't believe I missed the beginning of this last week! Very excited to scroll up and read your report now. Just wanted to say hi!
:)

kopp ~ oh sweetie, this is a beautiful trip report. The humor, the lovely descriptions. I am so enjoying it and so happy I saw it on this Friday afternoon.

Thank you so much for the time you have put into this, like I mentioned to you before, I have always wanted to go to Prague, so I have bookmarked your trip report for WHEN we get there, hee hee.
:)

Many thanks, truly wonderful and the best part is that there is more to come! Yippee!

Oh Tiff, you always know just what to say! Bless you! ((L))

A Week in Zermatt
Haus Linara – zermatt.ch

It was such a delight each morning to watch the sunrise over the Matterhorn. At first the peak is all aglow, and then slowly the entire mountain once again reigns supreme over the city below. Almost like clockwork, the clouds form, and the Mighty Matterhorn once again disappears from view. But those moments when it can be captured – well, it’s what we come to Zermatt to see, so it’s quite magical. Our apartment was a delightful one-bedroom unit, very modern and squeaky clean. The kitchen was stocked with coffee, spices, oils, dishwasher soap, and even a bottle of lovely Swiss white wine on the table! After a quick trip to the Coop for groceries, we were ready to hit the hills!

Speaking of the Coop, I must digress with a story that warmed my heart. When buying produce, there is a scale to weigh and price your veggies and fruit. I was noticing this sweet elderly Japanese woman and her husband having a difficult time trying to figure it all out, how to get it to price her bananas. Without a word being spoken, I took them both by the hand over to the bananas, showed them the bin number, then went back to the scale, pushed the corresponding number, and voila, a price tag popped out for their bag. After bowing and shaking hands, I left to finish my shopping. Several minutes later, this same woman taps me on the shoulder and hands me this little handmade purse-size toothpick holder with mirror, obviously something she had brought from home. She wanted me to have it for helping her. Of course, I refused at first, but at her absolute insistence, I put it in my pocket. More bowing, and she was off. And now I have a lovely toothpick case in my purse, a very special reminder of my day at the grocery store in Zermatt.

We purchased their six-day all-area pass for 230 CHF each, allowing us to use all the mountain transportation, including the bus.

Gornergrat – After a 40-minute train trip up the hill, what you see here is absolutely amazing. Totally encircling you are 29 glaciers, each having a 13,000-foot peak. It literally blows you away with the feeling that you are on top of the world. When the sun is out, the brightness of the white glaciers is blinding, and sunscreen is highly recommended. The newly-remodeled restaurant has a wonderful assortment of Swiss delicacies, and several times during the week we enjoyed fondue and schnitzel on the massive deck overlooking the glaciers. It really is incredible how beautiful this area is. Many tour groups make their way up the hill in the mornings, so afternoons are pretty quiet. Even the photographer with the St. Bernards will allow you to snap a picture of yourself and the dogs once the tours are gone.

The Gornergrat region is packed with great hiking trails. Some days we’d take the train only partway up, then walk down, past lakes mirrored with the shadow of the Matterhorn; through larch forests and wildflowers; or down rocky ledges close to the glaciers. Although we prefer hikes that go downhill, we are always surprised at the numbers of people who hike uphill. Some say it is easier on the legs to go uphill, but if I can’t breathe going up because of the steepness, well, then it’s not for me. Of course, back home in Texas is not the best place for conditioning. Our hills are not their hills.

Zermatt Glacier Paradise – To reach the summit, you change trams several times. The last section is so steep, the rocky ledges go straight down, and you have the feeling you are going to ram into its wall. But it’s that marvelous Swiss engineering again that brings you safely to the Glacier Paradise. After a short trek and, yes, an elevator inside the mountain, you arrive at the stairs that lead to the Top of the World. At 13,000 feet is an observation platform, said to be the highest sightseeing platform in Europe. Windy and chilled to the bone, the clouds finally opened up to the magnificent glaciers, with views all the way to Mt. Blanc!

In between rainstorms, we took many hikes, but our two favorite were: From the Furri lift, through the delightful hamlet of Zum See with its wonderful restaurant, wildflowers galore, and spectacular views of the Matterhorn along the way. And the 30-minute hike from Trokener Stegg, over a rocky hill, led us to the Gandegg Hutte, which took us right up close and personal to glaciers we had only seen from afar. Perched on the edge of a cliff, their restaurant was superb and the views took our breath away.

There are many good restaurants in Zermatt, but a favorite has always been the Walliserkam. Their kasespatzli is delightful, as well as the veal escalope, roasted lamb, osso bucco, and gratinated potatoes. We’ve eaten there for many years, and it’s always impressive when the maitre’d recognizes us and welcomes us back. The main street of town is lined with restaurants and tourist shops, and it is easy to get caught up in the “gotta have it” mentality. Remembering that we still had over a week to go and the suitcases were already bulging from almost five weeks on the road, we bid this town a fond farewell, until we meet again.

Next: The Bomb Shelter and The Snow Storm

Hi Kopp,

Great report.

Isn't it nice to know that Switzerland still puts trust into their customers? We weigh our produce ourselves and, if it's been forgot, the cashier will get up, go to a scale and weigh it for you. That's the good news. The bad news is that you have to pack all your groceries yourself, too. If you need a paper sack, you have to pay for it (about SFr. -.50.)

Can't wait for your bomb shelter story. When we built our house 12 years ago, we had two options: either build a bomb shelter in the basement or pay SFr. 10,000 to the Gemeinde (community hall) to use their bomb shelter in time of need. Bomb shelters are now no longer required nor must one pay a fee to the Gemeinde. However, I love my thick-walled cellar because staples keep so well.

Hi dear kopp ~ I saved your most recent installment for this morning to enjoy with my cup of earl grey. I am so glad I did.

First, that chilly weather must have felt like heaven!

Second, I now know that I must see Gornergrat. It sounds so beautiful.

And lastly, that random act of kindness in the Coop brought a tear to my eye. You are such a sweetie.

More, more, more please. Although the bomb shelter thing has me a bit scared!
:o

Great report kopp! I've been going to Burgenstock to swim or eat at the club house since the 80's but never knew about the Hametschwand elevator! Was there a street that goes to the bottom of the elevator? We typically drive to Burgenstock (quite a long curvy drive but breathtaking views). It would be nice to park the car at the bottom and take the elevator into the resort especially when the road is wet & slippery. The only outdoor elevator I was aware is the shorter one which only goes to Furigen. Thanks for your trip report kopp, you're so fortunate to have the luxury of time with your travels.

Hi Tiff - I still look fondly back on that episode in the grocery store. As you know, it isn't easy being in a foreign country, figuring out how things work, especially with the language barrier from German to Japanese. It is always heartwarming when someone lends us a hand or gives a direction. She was certainly appreciative.

DAX - here is a link to the Hammetschwand. We took the very rapid funicular from the boat dock on the lake up to Burgenstock (or Buergenstock?), then it was a half-hour walk to the Hammetschwand. Did you know that the big 5* hotel is closing down this fall for renovation? They don't have a rescheduled opening date yet.

http://tinyurl.com/fqywt

ahhhhh c'mon kopp, we need another fix!
:S-