kopp's Summertime Fun in Prague, Dresden, Berlin & Switzerland ...or... Escaping the Texas Heat - NOT! July-August 2006
 

I love to read guest books while traveling. Many seem to revolve around the weather in that particular area. Some entries I’ve seen include:

“The best time to visit Wyoming is between July 4th and July 5th.”
“In Maine, July is four weeks of bad skiing.”

Well, here in Texas, we’re famous for our summer heat. Some might even say it’s so hot, the hens lay hard-boiled eggs; or, it’s hotter than a honeymoon hotel. Truer words have never been spoken. So for the past 10 years since we’ve lived here, we’ve been fortunate to spend our summers high in the cool Alps of Switzerland, hiking to our heart’s content and eating to our stomach’s delight.

This year, we decided to add a couple weeks of city life into the mix. Looking at average temperatures that were within our daytime comfort range of the low 70s, we decided to try Prague, then Dresden and Berlin, before heading high into the Swiss Alps. So in a nutshell, the trip looked like this:

Austin to DFW to Frankfurt – overnight in Frankfurt
Prague (5 nights)
Dresden (3 nights)
Berlin (6 nights)
Engelberg (7 nights)
Zermatt (7 nights)
Grindelwald (7 nights)
Murren (2 nights)
Zurich-Glattbrugg (1 night)
Zurich to DFW to Austin

Pre-trip conversation with friends resulted in tweaking the plans a bit to allow them to join us. Knowing that traveling with friends sometimes results in strained or broken relationships, we carefully spelled out our traveling routine so there would be no surprises. They made it clear we were not to “mother” them, and that there would be days they would just stay put.

So off we went, flying into Frankfurt, a mere 10-plus hours in a cramped, packed airplane. Yes, there was “Chatty Cathy” behind me—really, how can you talk nonstop for 10 hours?—and the babies who cried the whole flight, and the flight attendant who remarked at mealtime, “A prize will be awarded if you can find the meat in here.”

Usually, we would head to our first destination (Prague) upon landing, but we weren’t sure how our friends would be feeling (they’ve only done a couple of these trips). So we decided to stay the night right there in Frankfurt and head to Prague the next day, hopefully refreshed and ready to go. After securing our train passes for the next couple weeks, we checked into our hotel, which was conveniently located adjacent to the airport. (Sheraton Hotel & Towers – Sheraton.com/Frankfurt)

Arriving in Frankfurt around 7:30 am, it would have been easy to head straight to bed. But feeling good and ready to go, DH and I decide to leave our friends behind and begin our touristing (and with specific instructions that they are not to sleep the day away but only take a couple hours’ nap). So we hop a train and head to Cologne to visit the massive Dom. In a train ride that is the best of our entire trip, so smooth and fast, we arrive in Cologne in an hour’s time. Gazing upon the magnificent spires of Germany’s largest cathedral and then stepping inside the enormous nave, it is easy to get lost in the beauty and history. (It was completed in 1880 after 632 years of construction – 632 years! And even after 14 bombing hits during WWII, it miraculously did not collapse.) The Sarcophagus of the Magi, purportedly containing the remains of the 3 Wise Men and elaborately decorated with gilded gold, gives us our first “wow” moment of the trip.

Several hours later, we head back to Frankfurt for some much-needed rest. Tomorrow the magic continues with a seven-hour train trip to Prague.

kopp
I've been to Engelberg many times, but I always go as a day trip. Is there anything to do for seven days or do you take day trips. Is there another train other than the one that goes to Lucerne? I love that area. We sometimes have a hard time finding food because most of the town closes the doors at 1:00 or 2:00 P.M. til late afternoon.

Yippee, kopp's trip report is underway!! :-)

Off to a great start, kopp! Had a good laugh from the Texas heat comments! Hadn't heard the one about hens laying hard boiled eggs, lol. :-) Look forward to reading more!

Oh goody...I've been waiting for this. Looking forward to all the rest.

Ahhh, you guys are too sweet! ((K)) It's really difficult getting started on and then completing a report from such a long trip. As AnnMarie knows, I have been known to give up halfway through...

But I'll really try to keep it short and to the point. If your eyes get glazed over, please let me know, and I'll stop.

scatcat - our week in Engelberg was to be our "lake" week as our next 2 weeks were to be hiking the hills. We thought about staying in Lucerne or somewhere on the lakes, but we still wanted to stay higher in altitude. We probably only spent 2 actual days in Engelberg proper. We took daytrips down the hill (1 hr.), then the lovely ferry rides to many little towns along the lake. More detail about those later.

Kopp,
I grew up in Houston where "it was so hot you could fry an egg on the sidewalk". Thanks for the memory. Betsy

I saw a woman on TV who baked cookies by leaving them in her hot car. I'll have to try that sometime. :-)

Part 2: Five Days in Prague
Hotel Maximilian – maximilianhotel.com

Ahhh, Prague. The city of a hundred spires – and gazillions of cobblestones! Ouch! I read somewhere that if you walk on cobblestones for 15 minutes a day, it’s good therapy for your heart. I don’t know about that, but what I do know is that after 2 days of torture, I had to seek out a remedy. After mildly complaining (okay, non-stop whining), DH and friends were overheard conspiring to leave me behind. Gasp! Well, I’m sure you know that when you least expect it, something catches your eye, calls your name, and voila, problem solved! The very next afternoon, after one of those “We’re not lost; just exploring” moments, a shoe store appeared out of nowhere. It was the cutest little mom-and-pop shop, and they were actually making the shoes right there! No English spoken here, but within 2 minutes they knew exactly what I needed and even had the right size and style for this Russian Viking with size 10 feet. Perfect!

It was about this time that the weather started to resemble something we’d hoped to leave behind in Texas. It seems that this was to be one of “those” summers, where struggling to keep hydrated was a daily ordeal. Refilling our water bottles each morning from the tap would only last a couple hours. It’s amazing how much our daily drink bill totaled. Of course, on the positive side, having cool ice cream sundaes for lunch wasn’t so bad!

While on the subject of food, I will mention very good advice that was given: Stay Away From The Dumplings! One evening at dinner, I did my best (well, half-heartedly) to warn my friend that perhaps she should choose something else to accompany her goulash. No, she’d read about Prague’s “famous” dumplings, and she wasn’t going to pass them up. Of course, she’s a Real Southern Lady who knows her dumplings, but these were no Southern dumplings. Actually, once eaten, they went directly South, if you get my drift, and stayed there for several days!

Enough of shoes and food. Next up: Castles, Churches, and Memories of 1968.

<i>Some might even say it’s so hot, the hens lay hard-boiled eggs; or, it’s hotter than a honeymoon hotel. </i>
A trip report that starts out like this can only be great!
Love it so far, kopp!! Thank you :)

Thank you, sweet Scarlett! ((L))

continuing...

Each of us has our own gifts. In our case, I tend to be the planner, while DH is definitely the navigator. Putting itineraries together or combing through guidebooks to find that perfect getaway is my niche. Give me a map, and suddenly my palms are sweaty and my eyes have lost their focus. Someone once called it “cartographically-challenged.” Amen.

Well, this particular morning DH awakens to a case of – well, I’m sure y’all have been there. Not fun. And we all know how difficult it can be to find those seemingly-invisible WC’s when nature calls. Deciding it best not to join us, he stays behind (no pun intended). So here I am with map in hand, friends mindlessly following in tow, off to see the wonders of Prague.

It’s actually a very easy town to navigate. Go this way, and you find the bridge to the castle. Go that way and you’re at the Jewish Quarter. Knowing DH wouldn’t want to miss either, we head to the famous Astronomical Clock, where we get a wonderful view from the tower above. It was quite amusing to watch the crowds of people, packed tighter than sardines in a can, pushing and shoving to get just a glimpse of the twirling figures.

Standing in the center of the Old Town Square, deciding which way to go next – what’s that I hear? Coming from The Church of St. Nicholas, it’s the beautiful voices of a choir, their melodious sounds echoing through the square. “Our concert begins in 5 minutes,” shouts the director. “Oh, thank you, Jesus,” I whisper to myself, knowing the rest of our day has just been planned. Inside, the beautiful baroque ornamentation is quite a display, gilded with shiny gold. When the organ played and the choir sung the 7 Amens, there was not a dry eye in the place. Very refreshing, for mind and soul. (And as our luck would have it, this choir was from Dallas, so we had some nice conversations with the members when their singing came to an end.)

We really enjoy visiting churches while traveling, and Prague did not disappoint. One evening, we went to a concert at the spectacular St. Nicholas Church in Mala Strana. This was a concert with organ, trumpet, and a lovely soprano, who sang the different versions of Ave Maria, as well as several other arias. Listening to the music while gazing upon the magnificent sculptures made for a perfect evening.

The first sentence in my guidebook calls Prague “The Magical City.” That seems like such an understatement. Our remaining days were filled with treasures, including the Old Royal Palace with St.Vitus Cathedral and St. George’s Cathedral; the Golden Lane; the Jewish Quarter, including the synagogues and cemetery; Wenceslas Square; National Museum of Archaeology; Tyn Church; Church of St. Francis of Assisi; a wonderful tour of the Obecni Dum; Sternbersky Palace; St. George Cloister; Strahov Monastery and Library; Loreta; and St. Agnes Church. And I can’t leave out the palace gardens and, of course, the Charles Bridge and all its statues!

Of particular note from the above list was visiting Wenceslas Square and the National Museum of Archaeology. This area holds special memories for my DH. His previous visit to Prague was in 1968 during the Russian invasion. Standing on the steps of the museum, he vividly recalls the Russians moving into town with their tanks, then taking aim and shooting directly at the area he was standing. He was but a young college grad at the time, with his only fear being that he wouldn’t get that perfect photograph to send back home. He actually had some pictures published in his local paper, one of which is still under glass at our home.

But sometimes it’s the little things that strike a chord in your memories the most; like wandering (okay, getting lost in) the alleyways; admiring the color and architecture of the buildings; sitting on a bench in the square while eating one of our many daily ice creams; watching the sun set over the bridge; the horse-drawn carts; or the peaceful serenity of eating lunch at a lakeside caf&eacute; on Kampa Island under an old tree. These were the times we enjoyed the most, when we could sit back and relax, enjoy the beauty that surrounded us, the magic of Prague.

Next: Dresden – Happy 800th Birthday!

kopp,

DH and I were in the chapel at Kings College in Cambridge during choir practice... it was the most beautiful sound, I had tears in my eyes. Your experience in Prague reminded me of that. :-)

Really enjoying this report! Now where is Rome?!? ;-) No rush...we won't leave until December 10th. :-D

Wonderful, kopp. Looking forward to reading about Dresden (my son's favorite city) and, of course, Switzerland!

Wonderful report...Prague sounds like a destination I need to put on my list. Looking forward to the next installment. Please don't &quot;run out of gas&quot; LOL

Prague was awesome! Never did I dream that I would like it so much. My teenage son, who was 17 at the time, was with me and it's his favorite European city. We went in early November so the crowds weren't bad, and it wasn't hot and humid. I think you will love the city.

Part 3: Three Days in Dresden
Hilton an der Frauenkirche - hilton.de/dresden

The heat wave continued. With daily highs now in the 90s, it was absolutely necessary to take long afternoon breaks in the relative coolness of our air conditioned hotel. The Hilton was a lovely modern hotel smack dab in the center of the Old Town. A better location would be hard to find. Our rooms were very spacious, and each day we found fresh fruit, wine, and sparkling water awaiting us on our coffee tables. Breakfast was a splendid display of everything imaginable, including smoked salmon, fresh cooked-to-order eggs, pastries of all kinds, berries to your heart’s content, and those lovely Nurenberg sausages!

I had read about the reconstruction and consecration of the Frauenkirche for so long that my emotions literally exploded upon my first viewing of this magnificent church. There it was, returned to its former glory, calling my name to explore its beauty. Completely destroyed in 1945 (not so much from the bombings, but from the fire storm afterwards), the rebuilding incorporated many of the stones from the original building. Reminding me of a wedding cake in its elegant tier design, it stands in the center of the Old Town Square, towering above the other buildings that surround it. Once inside, the altar is what drew my attention first. Over 2,000 fragments were rescued from the rubble and then painstakingly pieced together to create this spiritual gift. It really touched my heart.

The complex of museums known as The Zwinger is unbelievable. We set aside one full day to see it all, and it was nothing short of a blitz. We bought an all-inclusive ticket, so admission to all the museums was included in one ticket price.

The Old Masters Gallery is a real gem. With paintings by Titian, Raffael, Rembrandt, and Canaletto (okay, so I love Italian art), they even let you take pictures to your heart’s content – which basically meant that DH, aka trip photographer, was not to be seen again for quite sometime. I think it safe to say that our personal collection of photographs from this museum would make a wonderful tabletop catalog.

The Armory is absolutely brilliant! Nestled in just one story of a building, the display they’ve got here is beyond compare. Especially impressive was the dress regalia of the Saxon princes from the 16th Century; the parade armor for horse and rider of the Swedish King Erik XIV; and the coronation regalia of August the Strong, which he wore when he was crowned King of Poland in 1697. If Dresden is in your future, put this place on the top of your list!

And if that’s not enough, also in the Zwinger complex is The Porcelain Collection. Granted, the guys went through this pretty quickly, but Real Southern Lady and I went up and down each row, admiring the exquisite hand-painted Miessen table decorations, as well as the ornate pieces that had previously adorned many palaces. Several very large Nativites were on display, beautifully carved in white, as well as Japanese and Chinese pieces.

There is also a Salon of Mathematics and Physics with 13th Century globes, world maps, and scientific instruments. Outside, we visited the Bath of the Nymphs, a very ornate Baroque water fountain, decorated with dolphins, tritons and nymphs. Were the guards not around, we may have been tempted to take a dip in the coolness of the water as, by this time, it was mid-afternoon and we were melting and dehydrating (where are those drinking fountains when you need them?).

(Oh my. One page full already, and it’s only the first day in Dresden. A very wise friend told me to make it short and sweet. I’m trying, really.)

Up next: Dresden turns 800 – A Faire to Remember!

It's so nice to have you back, kopp! I'm enjoying every minute of your report. Keep it coming! :)

Glad you're enjoying it, Statia. It's slowly becoming a novel.. :B

(Dresden, continued)

A trip to Dresden would seem incomplete without visiting the State Opera House. As tours were given in German only, we lost a lot that our very talkative tour guide had to say, but we were still able to enjoy the beautifully restored building, with the marble columns, paneled archways, and painted ceilings. The auditorium is very large; however, the way it’s designed in a semi-circular fashion, getting a bad seat would be difficult. I remember hearing something like no seat is more than 23 meters from the stage. I had hoped the tour would include a visit to the backstage area, but it did not.

We were blown away by the treasures found in the Green Vault collection, housed in the Residence Schloss. Located in a temporary room while the palace undergoes restoration, this place is packed with gold, glassware, humongous gemstones, scepters, ivory, and silver. All the items were described in German as well as English, which really allowed us to admire them fully. One particular silver table centerpiece contains 130 figures and almost 5,000 diamonds! That must have been some table!

The Jubilee celebration of Dresden’s 800th birthday was in full swing during our visit. Each day and late into the night, the squares and alleys were filled with a Renaissance-style faire. We enjoyed watching the many artisans ply their wares, from pottery to glassware, furs, paintings, toys, and of course food! That wonderfully delicious bratwurst was everywhere, but also whole pigs were being roasted over open fires, lamb, goat, cheeses of every variety… the list could go on! It was absolutely wonderful to wander amongst the masses, watching the open-air theater with the performers dressed in period costumes and the children being mesmerized by the street musicians. In another section was their Festival of Culture, where countries from around the globe set up booths, selling food and trinkets from their respective countries. It always amazes me to see the Chinese acrobats, twisting and winding in ways that make my bones ache. We especially enjoyed the Russian Cossack dancers, where they fold their arms, squat, and kick their legs straight out, all in time to the fast-paced music. Great stuff!

We felt totally welcome at this city’s birthday celebration. More than once we were met with a friendly greeting and strong handshake. “Here, try this,” and something would be placed in our hands to taste. And they’d wait for you to try it, looking for your reaction. When it was good, they’d pat you on the back and give you more. If you kind of grimaced, we’d hear, “Put more mustard on it. Best in Germany,” or something like that. So fun!

Strolling across the bridge at night, gazing back at the city all aglow in lights, was a wonderful way to end our visit. People were everywhere, enjoying the relative coolness of the evening or just out for a stroll, arm-in-arm with a loved one. Even among the crowds, we found it very peaceful. The rebuilding of this fine city is not yet completed; but the hope of the future is alive and well in the eyes and mouths of its people.

Next: Berlin – Out with the Old; in with the New

&quot;Next: Berlin – Out with the Old; in with the New&quot; - will it be a shopping and wardrobe change report? I hope not a new DH :))

Kopp, your trip sounds like a dream....except the part about your husband and the dumplings. :-))

I got chills when I read about the Russian invasion in 1968. That must have been a strange time for your DH to be there, but what a fascinating story he has to tell.

I can't wait to hear more.

Hook 'em Horns!!

Wow, what a fun time. I just love the way the Europeans come out at night, and so many of the cities have squares where everyone can go. I really noticed this when I was in Rome some years ago. It was very warm and at night the squares were packed with people, families, young people, socalizing, having dinner or a gelato at cafes, spilling out onto the side walks. Very cool. Sounds like you hit the city at just the right time.

Part 4: Six Days in Berlin
Moevenpick Hotel – moevenpick-hotels.com/hotels/berlin

At hotel check-in, we were asked if we wanted an upgraded room for a slight 15 Euro increase. Upon viewing the room, I had to suppress a chuckle. I’ll just say that if you like having your bathtub in the open room next to the bed, this is the room for you. No thanks. When I take a bath, I want peace and quiet, that “Calgon, take me away” dreamlike state; not the “Aren’t you done yet? You’re steaming up the place” ranting! Our standard room was quite nice, not overly large, but certainly sufficient. The air conditioning would end up being a problem, but the hotel was kind enough to give us a fan so we could sleep comfortably. Each morning, we were treated once again to a sumptuous buffet, and we especially enjoyed the fresh fruits. Strawberries and cherries were in season, so sampling pastries, strudels, nectars, and the sweetest berries ever made for a delightful treat.

There was a wonderful little Italian restaurant near our hotel, where we had our first German-Italian pizza of the trip. Our friends had never had pizza like this, the crust so thin and crisp, the toppings so delicious. My favorite is still the one with the arugula on top, and they remarked it looked like something we’d feed the cattle back home. But after one sampling, they were hooked! Berlin is packed with good restaurants, and the portions are so very large. We dined on delicious dishes such as Zuricher Geschnatzlets, Jagerschnitzel, Kasespatzli, Pfeffer Schweinsteak, and Schweinschnitzel, and of course Apfelstrudel mit rahmsauce!! It’s amazing our pants could still zip up!

While sitting at a sidewalk caf&eacute; one night for dinner, we hear sirens, then see one police car after another, blocking off the intersection. We thought at first a dignitary was coming into town, but no. Then the rumbling came, followed by shouts and cheers. It was a parade of rollerskaters – literally thousands of them, skating down the middle of the street, dressed in all kinds of colorful outfits. They kept coming for what seemed 20 or 30 minutes, all packed in together. Just another one of those “had to be there” moments.

Before any trip, we read as much as we can about that country’s history, its people and traditions. I must admit that my father was not real keen on our visiting Germany. Unfortunately for him, the events that occurred in the years surrounding 1945 have left a scar that has never healed. “Why would you want to go there?” he asked. For him, it would be too difficult. For us, we needed to better understand and visualize events that have shaped our lives. Tracing the remnants of the Wall at the Topography of Terror and the Eastside Gallery, walking past the border crossing at Checkpoint Charlie, and standing in the square where the troops marched under the Brandenburg Gate, these are all very poignant reminders of a bygone era. We had very mixed feelings as we viewed the many tourist shops selling mementos of the war, from soldiers’ medals and uniforms, pieces of the Wall, and before-and-after pictures of the bombings.

Today, Berlin is a vibrant, thriving, modern metropolis. Construction cranes are everywhere, glass buildings dominate the skyline, and vacant lots take the place of bombed-out buildings. Shopping centers are very large, filled with everything imaginable, especially the famous KaDeWe. It would take days to see everything here. (We did, however, find the ice cream shop, and had a very delicious and refreshing sundae one afternoon!)

Six days in Berlin was still not enough to see all that was on my list. So each day we’d prioritize, knowing that we’d be limited by the weather and our ability to keep going and going in the heat. One day when we were on the #100 bus taking a scenic ride, a sign showed the temperature to be 39°C., which converts to 102°F. That’s hot, folks. But as my Marine Corps brother always says when faced with an intolerable situation, “Forward march,” pointing straight ahead, leading the pack. Our poor friends did not fare as well. They spent most afternoons back at the hotel, taking several cold showers daily just to cool down.

Next: Behold the treasures!

I would have been like your friends, melting away. I HATE really hot weather. Except for the lack of daylight, I really enjoyed my time in Copenhagen and Stockholm this last winter. The highs for the day in the mid to low 20's!!! I'm really enjoying this report. My brother and I want to do a trip to Germany and perhaps parts of Switzerland in the next couple of years and there isn't a lot about these areas compared to say London, Paris, and Italy, so this is great. Keep reporting!!!!!

Hi crefloors - I remember that wonderful report of yours! Something about a cannon rings a bell..

Because of the heat problems this summer, we'll probably change our travel plans, and try to go more in off season than summer. It will most likely mean curtailing our Swiss trips a bit, as hiking in March isn't feasible on the high trails.

Personally, I find it much easier on my aging body to travel in cooler weather than hot heat. You can always put on another jacket or scarf. But how much clothing can you take off, and just how much are you going to spend on drinks each day, not so much for refreshment but for combating dehydration?

I think it was just our bad luck to hit the heat wave, and lots of people have reported the same. But for us, we're retired and have flexibility. So I think we'll stick to spring and fall.

Thanks for the comments. It helps to keep me focused!

(Berlin, continued)

Purchasing a three-day museum pass was a great deal! For little more than a one-museum ticket, we took in most of what Berlin had to offer. The Pergamon Museum, famous for its Altar and the Ishtar Gate, was absolutely stunning! Hot as a sauna inside, tours were everywhere, making it almost impossible to breathe. It was amusing to watch the guards continually calling out, “Achtung,” and wave their finger at someone to indicate “Can’t you see that’s 3,000 years old – don’t sit there or touch that!” We also visited the Old Museum, with its collection of sculptures and paintings; the Egyptian Museum, showcasing the lovely bust of Queen Nefertiti; and the Kulturforum’s Old Master’s Gallery, full of beautifully-restored religious art, including the superb “The Netherlandish Proverbs” by Peter Bruegel the Elder. We were pleasantly surprised by the lack of tourists at the Kunstgeweremuseum (Museum of Applied Art). This is one of those “do not miss” places, filled with an outstanding collection of ceramics, porcelain, reliquaries, and art.

A few weeks before our departure, I received a call from the Reichstag restaurant that my scheduled reservation was no longer available as government officials were using it that day. No problem; we switched to a different date. When we arrived at the designated entrance on the new date, we were denied entrance as the restaurant was closed. “It’s always closed on Wednesdays,” the security guard told us. Yes, but they called and changed it and... and… Alas, we were out of luck. No lunch, no Reichstag, no view.

The Berlin Cathedral is nothing short of magnificent. Words cannot possibly describe its beauty. Upon entering, the organ was playing beautiful meditation music. We must have sat there an hour just gazing at the wonder before us. My journal entry simply states, “WOW”! The organ has 7200 pipes, and the 8 ceiling panel mosaics have 500,000 tiny tiles in each panel. The stained glass windows of the chancel are vibrant in their color, yet pastoral in their scenes. The tombs of Friedrich I and his second wife Sophie Charlotte are intricately carved, ornate baroque pieces of art. At one end is the figure of a woman overcome by grief, conveying the image of one’s own mortality. Very poignant. Down a flight of stairs is the crypt, where around 90 tombs are found, including many of the past kings and queens. Some are quite plain, while others are exquisitely ornate. Outside, the Dom stands boldly in a park-like setting, with fountains and grassy areas for rest and inspiration. People of all ages were cooling off in the water, while others enjoyed the warmth of the day under a tree, eating a picnic.

While the Zoological Gardens wasn’t high on our list for a visit, it seemed the logical place to go on our Monday morning as most everything else was closed for the day. This turned out to be such a pleasant outing. The animals had just been fed, so they were quite rambunctious and playful. Too much so for the rhinoceros. Or maybe we just got too close. But when he turned his head with that pointy horn straight at me, and snorted what I called the “death chant,” it was time to run! Yes, there was a fence, but somehow I think if he wanted me for breakfast, that fence wouldn’t have stopped him. Walking down the tree-lined pathways to each area, it felt like we were on a world tour. The housing for the animals was very exotic, resembling the Cotswolds of England with the thatched roofs, the onion dome churches of Russia, the palaces of Arabia, or the Egyptian ruins. We purchased the combination ticket, which included entrance to the adjacent Aquarium. Not only were there brilliantly-colored fish, but reptiles of all shapes and sizes – kind of grossed me out. I’ve had too many childhood nightmares about these creatures coming through my windows to appreciate them like the others did.

The weather kept increasing in temperature and we were just plum tuckered out, so we toyed with the idea of skipping our daytrip to Potsdam. But after our nightly cocktail hour one evening, feeling good about what we’d been able to do so far, we decided to head out there in the morning. And what a wonderful day it turned out to be! Taking the U-Bahn, then the bus, we headed straight to the Sanssouci ticket office for our timed tickets, buying again the combination ticket. Tours groups crowded the entranceway, and we were prepared for a long wait. But there were 4 spaces left on the tour leaving in 10 minutes! OH MY GOSH! Even after all the reading we’d done, we were so blown away by the massiveness and splendor of these palaces, gardens, forests, and teahouses. Words such as “a masterpiece of Frederician rococo” and “ostentatiousness in abundance” only begin to describe the halls of the Sanssouci and the New Palace. Filled with treasures from the days of the Prussians, these exquisite residences were almost too much for our senses and brains to capture. Artwork lined the walls, as well as gold, marble, beautifully restored furniture – the list could go on. The gardens surrounding the palaces have beautifully manicured lawns, pathways, and flowers everywhere, and park benches in the cool of the forests were a welcome relief from the blazing sun. The Dragon House provided a lovely courtyard for our lunch, including sandwiches, salad, and ice cream.

After such a lovely day, leaving so much yet unseen, we quickly decided that on our next trip to Berlin, we’ll stay in one of the Potsdam hotels for a few days. There is way too much left to explore here not to return.

Our last day was spent in the area of the Charlottenburg Palace. Taking the subway, we wandered through the town before heading to the palace. I was surprised to actually see a Woolworth’s, a throwback to the Five and Dimes of my childhood. This may sound odd, but I found it quite fun to wander the aisles (with a gentle tap-tap-tap of DH’s watch once in awhile), where I found a few needed treasures before heading to the Schloss. I have to admit that it did get a bit tiresome having to take guided tours through the palaces. None were in English, although they did hand out a printed text, but they seemed to drag on and on. I can appreciate the detail of the paintings or the chandeliers, but I thought 10 minutes in each room was a bit much. (And of course, we’d just visited Potsdam the previous day, and this place was no Potsdam.)

Our last hours were spent exploring the shopping districts, picking up those last-minute souvenirs, and taking a quick look at the unusual Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, with its three parts: the campanile, the fragments of the ruins from the bombings, and the prayer house. The blue glass windows that lined the walls with the figure of Christ hanging in the middle, the organ playing meditation music, left us at peace, knowing our German adventure was at a close.

At the curb in the morning, waiting for our taxi to the train station, a light sprinkling of rain started. Breathing in the coolness of the air renewed us, gave us hope that next week would not be so hot.

Next: Be Careful What You Wish For!

Ah kopp, finally a quiet afternoon and so I was able to read your most delightful trip report!! The heat, like Crefloors that gets to me also. You did fantastic! What a beautiful trip. I am looking forward to the next installment! Take care and thanks for sharing all the beautiful details of what you saw.

Hi LoveItaly, thanks for dropping by! ((k))

Part 5: Three Weeks in The Swiss Alps

Close your eyes. Say the word “Switzerland.”

What is the first thing that comes to your mind?

Is it the turquoise-colored glacier-fed lakes, picturesque lakeside villages, and boat rides? Glaciers and rugged snow-capped peaks? Mountain chalets with geranium window boxes? Fondue, raclette, and rosti? Cows, bells, and cheese? Yodeling and the alphorn? The many varieties of Alpenblumen, including Edelweiss, Enzian, and Bellflower? Gondolas, trams, trains, and the shrill of the “all aboard” whistle? Mountaintop restaurants after a long hike? Chocolates, ice cream, and apple strudel?

Thus ends my report of our three weeks in Switzerland!
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(Just kidding. This is only the appetizer. Are you hungry?)

Starving for your description of adventures in Switzerland, kopp. Please don't keep us waiting!

(I'm still trying to answer your question as to what comes first to mind. For me, maybe the flower-bedecked chalet set in an impossibly green meadow dotted with cows; a glacier-draped mountain rising behind. That's all one picture.)

A Week in Engelberg
Chalet Blumenweg – engelberg.ch
Hotel Europe – hoteleurope.ch

We love riding the Swiss trains. Our years of driving the mountain roads are long-gone. Watching the beautiful scenery from Germany into Switzerland, the lake districts, the mountains – well, it’s breathtaking. I love to open the windows and hear the chug-chug of the engine and feel the breeze on my face. Eating in the dining car is always a treat; not the cheapest meal in town, but it’s just one of those things that make the trip complete. On a previous visit we had purchased the First Class Swiss Half-Fare Card, so that would take quite a dent out of our train ticket costs the rest of this trip.

There are many chalet apartments available for rent. The extra space is a welcome luxury, and the price is generally half of what a hotel would be. And on long trips, it’s the little things that you sometimes miss the most, like ice cubes or a washer/dryer or even a home-cooked meal. This one-bedroom apartment was located just a short walk from the train station, had a well-stocked kitchen, and the bed was very comfortable. It was, however, disappointing to see graffiti on the buildings across the street. This is not supposed to happen in these little idyllic towns, but I guess the big city sprawl is happening even here. Too bad.

We had already booked and paid for the apartment by the time our friends decided to join us, and it was not an option to have them stay with us. So I booked them into a hotel just down the street, a very lovely turn-of-the-century building with a grand dining room and beautiful terrace, next to the town park. I reserved them a corner suite with a view of the mountains, very charming, furnished with antiques. The remark was made, “Oh, if only we were 20 again!”

This week saw a rapid change in the weather. Gone were the hot, sweltering days of Germany, replaced by a refreshing coolness, lots of clouds, and rain. Certainly not a problem as we came prepared with rain jackets. It just meant a bit more planning on whether to go up the mountain or stay low. This particular week was to be our “lake” week. Staying in Engelberg allowed us to be cool at night, yet close enough to Lake Lucerne, only an hour’s train ride away.

Purchasing the TellPass gave access to all this region had to offer, including:

Mt. Titlis – We rode their famous Rotair, which boasts as being the world’s first revolving tram, up to about 10,000 feet. The floor of the tram slowly makes a complete revolution as you progress up the mountain. Pretty nervy. At the summit, which is nothing more than an outcropping of rocks, there’s a very impressive multi-storied building with gift shops, restaurants, and terraces. Unbelievable. The Ice Flyer, basically a six-person chairlift, takes you up close and personal to the glacier crevasses. Our friends had never been on a chairlift, so this was a bit unsettling for their stomachs. There is also a glacier cave, carved right into the ice of the earth.

Pilatus – The Golden Round Trip begins with a boat ride from Lucerne, then onto the world’s steepest cog railway (with a 48% gradient). The views of the lake below were spectacular, until the clouds moved in. There’s a cliff’s-edge walk along the rim, and the wildflowers here were in full bloom, especially the little blue bell flowers and lots of pink and purple flowers of differing shapes. Chilled to the bone, we enjoyed a delicious barley soup in the restaurant before continuing our Golden Round Trip on the aerial tram. Reaching Frakmuntegg, we took several thrilling rides up and down the alpine toboggan, with gorgeous views of the now visible Lake Lucerne. After dining on a typical Swiss lunch (fondue, alpenmacaroni, schnitzel, bratwurst, apple strudel, ice cream), we finished the trip with the gondola, then the short bus ride back to Lucerne, and the train back to Engelberg.

Trubsee – This is a very easy, flat walk around a mirror-like lake, with the reflection of the glaciers onto the water. The trail is filled with wildflowers, and there are signs (in English) describing them. One in particular was known for being “beneficial for women’s problems.”

Lucerne and the lake villages – We spent many hours on the top deck of the lake’s paddle-steamers, enjoying the peacefulness of the lake. Even with the rains, the beautiful green hills and villages are breathtaking. The boat houses and gardens, the sunbathers on the shoreline, children frolicking in the water, and the walkers along the promenade provide for an escape from the tourists and noise of the city. Thoughts enter our minds of moving to Weggis or Vitznau. A possibility or far-fetched dream? Only time will tell.

Our friends were no longer hiking with us as their bones had hit their limits, so we kind of split up during the last days of their journeys with us. They stayed behind in Engelberg and enjoyed wandering through the town or just relaxing in the park.





One day in particular we hit the jackpot. It was the Swiss National Day, August 1st. Celebrations were all over Switzerland, with towns having fairs and fireworks. Engelberg came alive that day. The streets were filled with food booths, games for the children, music, oom-pah bands, alphorns, parades, and even the requisite speech by the mayor. But the most fun of all was our little side trip to the hilltop village of Burgenstock. Perched on a hill overlooking the lake, accessible only by boat and then a funicular, the views of the lake here are magnificent. The village courtyard (about the size of a tennis court) was filled with the sounds of polka music, and people were singing, clapping, eating, and drinking. Oh, what merriment! For only 6 CHF, we sampled “brat-chas,” a combination of melted cheese and apple wine served over bread. So yummy!

We are always amazed at the engineering abilities of the Swiss. The mountain transportation available is remarkable, making remote areas accessible to so many people. We thought we had seen it all. However, only a half-hour cliffside walk from Burgenstock is a trail that leads to an unbelievable elevator perched on a cliff over the lake. Built in 1872, this is Europe’s highest and fastest outdoor elevator, leading to the Hametschwand Summit. And of course, there’s a full-service restaurant on top. Best to have a light lunch, though, as you may lose it on the ride back down!

That about sums up Engelberg. Our friends departed at the end of this week, while we continued our journey.

Next: The Mighty Matterhorn

Oh my goodness kopp, can't believe I missed the beginning of this last week! Very excited to scroll up and read your report now. Just wanted to say hi!
:)

kopp ~ oh sweetie, this is a beautiful trip report. The humor, the lovely descriptions. I am so enjoying it and so happy I saw it on this Friday afternoon.

Thank you so much for the time you have put into this, like I mentioned to you before, I have always wanted to go to Prague, so I have bookmarked your trip report for WHEN we get there, hee hee.
:)

Many thanks, truly wonderful and the best part is that there is more to come! Yippee!

Oh Tiff, you always know just what to say! Bless you! ((L))

A Week in Zermatt
Haus Linara – zermatt.ch

It was such a delight each morning to watch the sunrise over the Matterhorn. At first the peak is all aglow, and then slowly the entire mountain once again reigns supreme over the city below. Almost like clockwork, the clouds form, and the Mighty Matterhorn once again disappears from view. But those moments when it can be captured – well, it’s what we come to Zermatt to see, so it’s quite magical. Our apartment was a delightful one-bedroom unit, very modern and squeaky clean. The kitchen was stocked with coffee, spices, oils, dishwasher soap, and even a bottle of lovely Swiss white wine on the table! After a quick trip to the Coop for groceries, we were ready to hit the hills!

Speaking of the Coop, I must digress with a story that warmed my heart. When buying produce, there is a scale to weigh and price your veggies and fruit. I was noticing this sweet elderly Japanese woman and her husband having a difficult time trying to figure it all out, how to get it to price her bananas. Without a word being spoken, I took them both by the hand over to the bananas, showed them the bin number, then went back to the scale, pushed the corresponding number, and voila, a price tag popped out for their bag. After bowing and shaking hands, I left to finish my shopping. Several minutes later, this same woman taps me on the shoulder and hands me this little handmade purse-size toothpick holder with mirror, obviously something she had brought from home. She wanted me to have it for helping her. Of course, I refused at first, but at her absolute insistence, I put it in my pocket. More bowing, and she was off. And now I have a lovely toothpick case in my purse, a very special reminder of my day at the grocery store in Zermatt.

We purchased their six-day all-area pass for 230 CHF each, allowing us to use all the mountain transportation, including the bus.

Gornergrat – After a 40-minute train trip up the hill, what you see here is absolutely amazing. Totally encircling you are 29 glaciers, each having a 13,000-foot peak. It literally blows you away with the feeling that you are on top of the world. When the sun is out, the brightness of the white glaciers is blinding, and sunscreen is highly recommended. The newly-remodeled restaurant has a wonderful assortment of Swiss delicacies, and several times during the week we enjoyed fondue and schnitzel on the massive deck overlooking the glaciers. It really is incredible how beautiful this area is. Many tour groups make their way up the hill in the mornings, so afternoons are pretty quiet. Even the photographer with the St. Bernards will allow you to snap a picture of yourself and the dogs once the tours are gone.

The Gornergrat region is packed with great hiking trails. Some days we’d take the train only partway up, then walk down, past lakes mirrored with the shadow of the Matterhorn; through larch forests and wildflowers; or down rocky ledges close to the glaciers. Although we prefer hikes that go downhill, we are always surprised at the numbers of people who hike uphill. Some say it is easier on the legs to go uphill, but if I can’t breathe going up because of the steepness, well, then it’s not for me. Of course, back home in Texas is not the best place for conditioning. Our hills are not their hills.

Zermatt Glacier Paradise – To reach the summit, you change trams several times. The last section is so steep, the rocky ledges go straight down, and you have the feeling you are going to ram into its wall. But it’s that marvelous Swiss engineering again that brings you safely to the Glacier Paradise. After a short trek and, yes, an elevator inside the mountain, you arrive at the stairs that lead to the Top of the World. At 13,000 feet is an observation platform, said to be the highest sightseeing platform in Europe. Windy and chilled to the bone, the clouds finally opened up to the magnificent glaciers, with views all the way to Mt. Blanc!

In between rainstorms, we took many hikes, but our two favorite were: From the Furri lift, through the delightful hamlet of Zum See with its wonderful restaurant, wildflowers galore, and spectacular views of the Matterhorn along the way. And the 30-minute hike from Trokener Stegg, over a rocky hill, led us to the Gandegg Hutte, which took us right up close and personal to glaciers we had only seen from afar. Perched on the edge of a cliff, their restaurant was superb and the views took our breath away.

There are many good restaurants in Zermatt, but a favorite has always been the Walliserkam. Their kasespatzli is delightful, as well as the veal escalope, roasted lamb, osso bucco, and gratinated potatoes. We’ve eaten there for many years, and it’s always impressive when the maitre’d recognizes us and welcomes us back. The main street of town is lined with restaurants and tourist shops, and it is easy to get caught up in the “gotta have it” mentality. Remembering that we still had over a week to go and the suitcases were already bulging from almost five weeks on the road, we bid this town a fond farewell, until we meet again.

Next: The Bomb Shelter and The Snow Storm

Hi Kopp,

Great report.

Isn't it nice to know that Switzerland still puts trust into their customers? We weigh our produce ourselves and, if it's been forgot, the cashier will get up, go to a scale and weigh it for you. That's the good news. The bad news is that you have to pack all your groceries yourself, too. If you need a paper sack, you have to pay for it (about SFr. -.50.)

Can't wait for your bomb shelter story. When we built our house 12 years ago, we had two options: either build a bomb shelter in the basement or pay SFr. 10,000 to the Gemeinde (community hall) to use their bomb shelter in time of need. Bomb shelters are now no longer required nor must one pay a fee to the Gemeinde. However, I love my thick-walled cellar because staples keep so well.

Hi dear kopp ~ I saved your most recent installment for this morning to enjoy with my cup of earl grey. I am so glad I did.

First, that chilly weather must have felt like heaven!

Second, I now know that I must see Gornergrat. It sounds so beautiful.

And lastly, that random act of kindness in the Coop brought a tear to my eye. You are such a sweetie.

More, more, more please. Although the bomb shelter thing has me a bit scared!
:o

Great report kopp! I've been going to Burgenstock to swim or eat at the club house since the 80's but never knew about the Hametschwand elevator! Was there a street that goes to the bottom of the elevator? We typically drive to Burgenstock (quite a long curvy drive but breathtaking views). It would be nice to park the car at the bottom and take the elevator into the resort especially when the road is wet &amp; slippery. The only outdoor elevator I was aware is the shorter one which only goes to Furigen. Thanks for your trip report kopp, you're so fortunate to have the luxury of time with your travels.

Hi Tiff - I still look fondly back on that episode in the grocery store. As you know, it isn't easy being in a foreign country, figuring out how things work, especially with the language barrier from German to Japanese. It is always heartwarming when someone lends us a hand or gives a direction. She was certainly appreciative.

DAX - here is a link to the Hammetschwand. We took the very rapid funicular from the boat dock on the lake up to Burgenstock (or Buergenstock?), then it was a half-hour walk to the Hammetschwand. Did you know that the big 5* hotel is closing down this fall for renovation? They don't have a rescheduled opening date yet.

http://tinyurl.com/fqywt

ahhhhh c'mon kopp, we need another fix!
:S-