Just how intimidating is the Italian rail system?
 

My wife and I are planning a Venice, Florence, Rome trip in September. We have never used the Italian trains and have sweaty palms about navigating the stations, acquiring tickets, finding the correct train and track, etc. We are seniors and lugging bags through confusing stations in a mad rush gives us pause. Comments will be appreciated.

Right there with you, Bill! Everyone kept telling me about how very simple it is to use the trains in Italy. We finished up only taking one train, from Florence to Pisa. Managed to get on the right train, but without getting our tickets punched before the train departed. The opinion of those around us on the train (all Italians) was that we should simply write the day and time on our tickets, so, if an inspector got on board, it wouldn't look like we were trying to cheat. Just saying, it's not as intuitive (the first time) as people suggested ... but, arguably better than driving!

I had a Eurail pass when I went so I can't speak for actually buying tickets. I also had only a (rather big) backpack, so luggage wasn't too much of a hassle for me. I went to Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence and Bologna. I found the Italian rail system fairly easy to navigate, certainly no more complicated than anywhere else. Yes, there were crowds and it was sometimes a bit hectic and confusing, but I think that's true for most train stations in big cities.

I would suggest arriving with a decent amount of time before your train leaves, not hours or anything, but I personally tried to get there about half an hour before the train was due to depart. That was mainly because I wanted to give myself enough time to actually get to the station, and also in case I got lost or turned around at the station itself. It's just a good idea to give yourself time when you know you'll be in a strange place. This is especially true if you have a lot of luggage with you; running to catch a train while carrying a bunch of heavy bags is VERY uncomfortable.

I did find that the Italian trains were in general less comfortable than French trains. They were dirtier and just generally more shabby. But that may just have been my experience.

Tt

If you can navigate an airport a train station will seem simple in comparison as they're much smaller.

As to the "mad rush," get to the station with time to spare and then there won't be a mad rush.

Once you get there you'll wonder why you were so anxious! Relax and enjoy the trains.

- Walk into the station
- Look for the destination board
- Find your destination
- Look across the line for the track number (bin in Italian)
(doesn't this sound like what you do at an airport?)

Many times the track numbers won't be posted until a few minutes before boarding so you'll have time to scope out the station and buy something to eat and drink.

If you have a Regional ticket, validate it in the little box at the entrance to your track. If you have a dated and timed ticket then no need to validate. Sometimes there is a board at the entrance to the track with the train composition so you can see where your car is located. If there is no board then just walk down the platform and look at the signed next to the entrance doors.

Very easy.

For more train information go to seat61.com

Bill: I find it easy and I'm not that smart. ;-)

About comfort: you always have the option of first class tickets.

The trains will be much fast and more convenient than flying between any of those three cities, and much less expensive than hiring a driver.

On tickets: people here will help you, OR you can buy your train tickets at any designated travel agency in Italy that has the Trenitalia logo in the window, OR you can copy the schedules here, print them out, and take them to the ticket window at your arrival airport, buying them all at that time. OR buy them as you go at agencies or train stations. There are many options.

About your luggage: that is somewhat of a concern. Pack very light, be well organized, and make sure your luggage is easy to roll. Try packing and strolling around the block at home before deciding what to take and what to leave.

More thoughts: I often study the webpage for a train station before I go there. Roninrome.com has really good information for Roma Termini.

You get a sense of what you're heading into.

Venice is very easy. Florence is pretty easy. Termini is kind of big, but quite doable.

Just take your time and pack light.

Bill,
I felt the same way the first time taking the trains, but now we love it. One piece of advice is to pack very lightly, since you have to carry the bags up 3-4 steps to your car. We arrive about 1/2 hour early and look for our train on the board, then get ready to go to the track when it shows on the board. That part can get a little hurried, but people are polite about waiting for you to get on board.

BTW, if your destination from Venice is Florence, you might not see it on the board; instead look for the train number. It may say that it's going to Rome but Florence is a stop on the way.

It's a lovely, quiet and smooth way to travel. I'd highly recommend the fast trains, and we go first class on trains ( even though we can't go first class on airplanes!)

Have a great trip!

>>>If you have a Regional ticket, validate it in the little box at the entrance to your track. If you have a dated and timed ticket then no need to validate<<<

Some regional tickets are dated/timed. The tickets that need validating before boarding are tickets that do not have assigned seats. R trains don't have assigned seats. This will not apply for your itinerary as you seem to only be traveling between major cities so you will likely be taking the fast trains (AV).

Most stations the AV trains use are pull in stations which means the train then needs to back out. These trains are in the station longer (about 10-15 minutes) than R trains where most stations are pull through and often 1 minute stops.

You can familiarize yourself with the Rome station by clicking on their station map on their website (2-3 levels in Rome) and pics of shops, restaurants, etc.

http://www.romatermini.com/en/

When we traveled from Florence to Rome on the Eurostar, I bought tickets in advance online at www.raileurope.com. You also can buy directly from the Italian rail service at www.trenitalia.com. There, you must use the Italian names for cities, such as Firenze. You also can use www.tgv-europe.com for any country.
I think you can't buy Eurostar tickets more than 60 days in advance, but if you buy them right at that time there usually are good prices; we went for first class because the premium was so low. It's best to register.
With tickets in hand you just find your train and car as described above. It's a beautiful and smooth 90 minute ride.

The only "intimidating" part of using Italian trains, in my opinion, is remembering to validate tickets before you get on the train. Yes, I have forgotten a few times; never got caught but did write the date and time immediately on the tickets once I realized this. If the ticket is for a specific train (date/time/seat/reservation printed on the ticket) it does not need to be validated.

Otherwise, I have no trouble with Italian trains - and I rode many over several trips.

You can use the ticket machines (instructions in English) to buy tickets for any train on the Trenitalia system (perhaps not international trains). In 2007 I was able to use my US credit card in the machines but they may not be accepted anymore (chip-and-pin required now, perhaps?). But you can find a machine that accepts euros. Or, stand in line at a ticket window; write the departure and arrival cities and date on a piece of paper to hand it to the agent. Write the date as DAY/MONTH/YEAR (20/4/2013) not MONTH/DAY/YEAR (4/20/2013) as we do in the US. The agent will probably be able to speak at least some English.

Finally, give yourself plenty of time at the train station to find the right train.

Trains are super easy. Your only legitimate concern is luggage. You need to be able to walk briskly (if you are changing trains) a block or so with your luggage. You need to be able to carry it up 3 or 4 steep steps from platform to train (possibly - depending on what you take where). You need to be able to put small luggage overhead - and leave larger bags at the end of the car.

We have traveled with a medium size bag and carry-on each on trains - but if necessary we could jog a block with both bags. If you have a lot of trouble dealing with your luggage - you need to take a lot less.

Thank all of you. My palms are slightly less sweaty.

One more thing: other travelers have been very helpful whenever we've had any difficulty with luggage on the steps. My younger son didn't have much strength last summer, so we did struggle a bit. I'd bet some Good Samaritan would step in and help if you need it.

Between the places you mentioned, trains run every hour. You can get your ticket
at the ticket machine (explanations in English, takes credit cards, but rather sophisticated resp compicated), some weeks up to an hour or so prior to the train departure
at the railway station counter (often long queues at Venice, Florence and Rome,
in the web.
Web tickets are often highly discounted.

I am among those who find it simple with the exceptions noted by others and below.

What I think some people find slightly nerve wracking is that you won't know which track you will be departing from until about 10 minutes before it leaves. We are a forum full of people who agonize over which of two virtually identical streets has the "best" view, I.e., slightly compulsive. In fact, trains, especially regional trains, mostly depart from the same places. You ca ask or you ca assume that a platform full of women in stylish clothes is more likely to be a Frecciarossa than a platform full of school kids. But check.

What should be worrying is that the trains are in the stations very little time compared to American trains, though perhaps more than French trains. Despite humor about Italian inefficiency, trains are very likely to
be on time. You do not have time for a quick trip to he toilet or to buy a candy bar.

I'm going to echo the advice to pack light - it makes all the difference when you are negotiating those steps, and there are bound to be a few, even at major stations with lifts and ramps.

AND a word about those lifts and ramps - on my last trip to Italy I was using the trains exclusively which was new for me, i was alone, and I was quite nervous. Somehow I just couldn't see the signs for the lifts and ramps so lugged my over-large and heavy luggage up and down staircases at several stations.

On the journey back, those lifts and ramps had miraculously appeared at those same stations!

give yourselves plenty of time, and hopefully you'll see the signs and avoid those stairs.

BTW, I'm not sure about the other two, but so far as I know there are no stairs at Florence - it's all on the flat. the official taxi rank is at the front of the station, to the left - and there is a taxi consolidator who will direct you to the next one. The traffic in florence is appalling but fortunately YOU won't be driving in it - a great advantage of using public transport.

Basically the SMN station in Florence has no stairs; Campo di Marti may be different.

We took the train frequently in February for sightseeing from Lucca. I fond the automated ticket machines handy to use (although we didn't have prior reservations as we were just day tripping). Here's a video walking you through the process

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6-yNn0N6Mo

Firenze SMN has no stairs on the east side (via Valfonda), there is a ramp on the western side (via Alamanni and the bus station). Taxies, ticket office and all tracks are accessed at the same level (but some buses are not).

All tracks at Campo di Marte but track 1 are accessed by underpass. There are elevators, slow and not always working, if memory does not fail me they work by keeping a button pressed till you are arrived, sometimes confusing.

Ackislander, I have noticed this trend of always asking for the "best" solution, and sometimes it borders on the bizarre - obviously there is not always a single solution best for all, and sometimes the best solution is just waiting and/or looking around. Another term that sometimes sounds bizarre is "exploring" places that were charted a few centuries ago and are visited by millions people per year :-)

We travelled Venice-Florence and Florence-Rome on the fast trains in December.

Because we were working to a schedule, I pre-booked the seats at cheaper prices on the Trenitalia website before we left, and then just travelled with the printed e-ticket receipt emailed to me at purchase.

There are a few steps at Venezia Santa Lucia, but fairly easy to find the train and board, since this is a terminus.

Firenze Santa Maria Novella is all flat, but was the only area where we became a bit anxious about boarding. As this was a stop on the service from Milan to Rome, it seemed that the advice of platform did not occur until just before the train arrived, then it was a scramble to get down the platform to our carriage and board (this is where light packing is an advantage - by the time we were leaving Florence we had spent 2.5 weeks accumulating bargains and books in London, Paris, Venice and Florence!)

Roma Termini was also fairly flat (I think) - we had a driver meet us there to simplify getting to our accommodation.

The fast trains are fantastic - we only travelled in second class, but had airline style seats that were very comfortable for the approximately 2 hour trips. (Top speed we observed Florence to Rome was around 270 kmh - pretty fast!)

We caught a regional train from Florence - Pisa return - purchased from the machine at Firenze SMN with credit card - fairly easy transaction - didn't get tix validated on the outward trip and spent most of the trip trying to find someone to report myself to to avoid getting "caught" and fined - couldn't find anyone interested though! I made sure our tix were validated for the return journey!

>>>Here's a video walking you through the process<<<

The linked video is ok, but leaves out quite a few things you encounter during the process such as the machine defaulting to your location, etc. The machine in the video says no cash, but there are machines that accept cash so you need to look for them if that's what you want to use. This link has screen by screen instructions (scroll down). Some of the discount fares no longer exist (mini fares), but it gives really good instructions on using the machines.

http://www.roninrome.com/%20transpor...ickets-updated

check out these sites for lots of great info on Italian trains to make it a little easier - www.seat61.com; www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com.

At first it might seem flummoxing but years of riding Italian trains tells me it ain't - you should definitely go first class because it seems you have lots of luggage - easier to store and a much more relaxed ride for the trip of a lifetime.

We've traveled many miles on Italian trains and I'll bet we're older than you!

One additional suggestion which my husband developed over the years: if you buy your tickets at the counter, have your destination written on a 3 x 5 card and show that to the one selling tickets. That lessens any chance of misunderstanding due to promumciation, etc.

We also have destinations such as hotels written on cards and show them to taxi drivers.

Have a wonderful trip!

Byrd

I've had to sort out very senior Americans at a number of Italian stations. I don't think the ticket thing is the key issue, but critical is
1) arrive in enough time to understand the layout of the station and where the live time table is
2) once you know which platform you need, make sure you are going in the right way, and if in doubt ask (preferably in Italian) do not do the male thing of walking off until the platform gives out :-) and then ask
3) Smile and thank people
4) Don't get tired, and if you do, sit down and have a rest

Regionale are a bit tatty, but the other types are very clean with second class perhaps a little small for the average American male and 1st class pretty good.

I don't know how you are going to get your tickets (online, confirmation #, etc) but this is a typical paper ticket that you would buy from the ticket counter or vending machine.
http://www.cromwell-intl.com/travel/...2-dscf0002.jpg

At the top the type of train 'Eurostar'.

The next line is 'Departure Date'.

Then 'Departure TIME' this is important as you will use that to find your train on the 'Departure sign board' in the station.

Then the Departure and Arrival cities.

Then your Arrival Date and Time.

And finally the 'Class' 1st or 2nd, in this case 2nd Class.
So when walking down the platform you will look at each car for in this case a large [2] on the side of it.��

The next line is 'Treno' your train's number which will likely not be listed on the Departure Board but IIRC it will be listed on your platform's departure sign.

Next is 'Carrozza' which is your train car's number which IIRC should be near that car's entrance door.

And then 'Posti' which is your seat number, "Finestrino' is window.

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If you are going to buy your tickets at the train station use one of the many ticket vending machines vs waiting in a line at the ticket counter.

I'm not officially a 'Senior' but I can join AARP:-).
So many years ago I would tell you that these ticket vending machines are so *easy* to use a 10yr old child could use them but 10yr olds today are way smarter with that stuff than we are:-).
These vending machines ask very simple questions in English like a 10yr old today would explain them to a 70yr old:-).

Bill, believe me if I can use them anyone can:-).

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So now with ticket in hand you arrive at the train station and go over to the 'Departure Board'.

Now here's a bit of a tricky part.

In your case Venice to Florence the Departure Board isn't going to have Florence listed, it will have the train's *Final Destination* which could be 'Roma Termini', Napoli, Salerno, etc so a major city on this Southern train route.
But it will stop in Florence for ~10min.

So match up your ticket's departure time say 0820 with a 0820 departure on the departure board.

Then look for the type of train like in the ticket photo above where Eurostar will be labeled on the board as ES*.
They replaced/replacing the ES trains with a faster version but I don't know how they are listing them (AV? or still ES*?) on the departure boards? Anyone know?

If you are taking a fast train it will not be listed as REG (slow train with multiple spots).

So time and type of train matches up, now look at the Final Destination, say it reads Roma Termini or Napoli which are south of Florence and that's your train.

Now look at the Binario column on the board and it will tell you your platform number.

Here's an example at Rome's Termini train station. http://www.browsingrome.com/wp-conte...8-768x1024.jpg

Say I'm going North to Florence at 0820 and my train's final destination is Venice (Venezia), everything matches but they haven't listed a Binario yet so I wait.

If I was going South to Naples at 0820 you can see Bari is the final destination and my train is at platform 17.

And at the very top of the photo there are 2 departure times for that train 0745 but next to it 0750, the train is late and leaving 5mins later.

Bill, I just checked roninrome.com's website and I see the newer ticket vending machines are more complicated.

It figures whenever I can use some new techno gizmo easily they go and improve it on me to make it more complicated:-).

But still I'm sure you'll have no problem if that is the ticket purchasing option you choose.

I was pleased to read the helpful information in response to your post as we are also planning a trip through Italy by rail. I can't say much about that issue, but will offer that we decided to buy a 1st class rail pass for travel through Switzerland in part so that we didn't have the hassle of buying tickets as we traveled along (or use up time standing in line, or have to figure out how to use the machines to purchase them, or have money available). You can go online and add up the cost of individual point-to-point tickets, and then compare it to the cost of a rail pass for the number of days you will be traveling. Or you can buy a pass to use for the longer, more expensive trips and buy tickets for the shorter, cheaper ones if you do day trips away from your "hub," such as Florence.

I do want to join others in encouraging you to pack light- something that is very doable if you read up on what and how to pack on this and other travel sites such as frommers, rick steves (www.ricksteves.com/plan/tips/packlight.htm), trip advisor, etc. There are also numerous videos on the subject on youtube. Shop with your trip in mind, making sure that what you buy is lightweight and packable (takes up as little space as possible, doesn't wrinkle much, and can be easily washed and hung up to dry quickly, and that the colors coordinate so that every piece can be worn with every other piece.

My husband and I have traveled to Switzerland and Greece, as well as all around the US, each using a 21 inch rollaboard suitcase and a small, lightweight backpack. One must usually get on and off the trains quickly, and there is little time to bother with multiple pieces of luggage. In Europe, you will often be walking on cobblestone streets or other uneven surfaces, or going up and down lots of stairs, so try not to pack more than you can lift and carry if need be.

I will look forward to hearing your trip report when you return to Italy! Enjoy!

Bill44,

You have been given lots of good advice by all the previous posters. My contribution for what it is worth is a story.

Sept. 2011, my Wife and I were in Milan at the beginning of a 3 week trip. We had rented an apartment in Rapallo for a week and went to Milano Centrale Station to buy our tickets. I had practiced and practiced in my best Italian (not very good at all) to ask for two tickets, one way for Saturday on such and such train from Milano to Rapallo, 2nd class at such and such time. IT was hot. The ticket queue was fairly long and I had chosen not to use the ticket machines. I was still practicing my lines in Italian while I moved up in the queue. The ticket agent waived me up and laid on him my best Italian. With out batting an eye, in what sounded like a New Your City accent, the agent asked in better English than my Italian, "2 adult?"

You should have no problems. Be flexible, ask for help and be patient.

If you are going to be travelling at a time when you think you will need lunch, then buy a panini at the train station. It's cheaper and much better quality than on the trains.

It's easy to catch trains in Italy, no more complicated than being at an airport and needing to find the right departure gate etc.

But still I'm sure you'll have no problem if that is the ticket purchasing option you choose.>>

when i rolled up at florence SMN station to buy my ticket to Pisa airport, there were no queues at all at the ticket window, so i went there, and carried out the transaction entirely in Italian.

Feeling very proud of myself I boarded the train and we set off.

it was only when we got to Pisa and I had to change onto the shuttle train to the airport [steps, no lift] that I realised that I'd managed to buy a ticket to Pisa Centrale, not Aeroporto.

I'm obviously not the only idiot who does this as the ticket inspector was very understanding; at least I'd remembered to validate it in the machine before I started so i didn't ahve that to worry about!


the moral? - mistakes happen, don't worry.

I believe the OP's quesiton comes from the historical reluctance of male travelers to ask for directions. Bill, in Northern Italy the Trenitalia people are usually always conversant in English, knowledgeable, and tourist friendly. Simply asking for help will usually solve any difficulty you may have. I found trying to find a glass of drinking water on a Norwegian cruise ship much more intimidating than navigating the Italian rail system.

I am sorry to observe that using passes will not make your life simpler on Italian trains, as all the fast trains are to be reserved (this is very different from Switzerland) so passes are as unpractical as buying point-to-point tickets and may even be more expensive.