Just got back from Paris - tips
 

I just returned from a twelve day trip to Paris. Had to connect from my town into Houston for a 4:00 pm flight. Bad weather in my town caused us to miss our connection and we had to spent the night in Houston and leave the next day at 4:00 pm. (NOTE TO SELF - always get to the city of the connection early because many european airports are not open all night so the flights are scheduled to arrive there in the daylight hours. <BR><BR>So I missed the opera in Paris - NTS -never plan an outing the night of the first night there. (The concierge really enjoyed my tickets-well, I guess so - the 12th row at Opera Bastille.<BR><BR>This time I spent a lot of time planning the itenerary. I located on a map all of the places I wanted to see and then divided the map into one day sections - listing all of the places I wanted to go. Then I printed a map of each section and plotted the locations of the shops and retaurants I wanted to go to - starting at the metro station and walking from there. This saved an enormous amaount of grief trying to decide how to get places and gave me more time to play.<BR><BR>(it is soo frustrating to realize at the end of the trip that the kitchen supply you wanted to visit was only two minutes from the place you had lunch two days ago.)<BR><BR>I had many aha moments on this trip. First and foremost I was thunderstruck once gain - more than ever before- by the sweet nature of the Parisians. Of course I am a single woman travelling with a charming little 9 year old girl - and I speak fluent french - so that gives us an advantage. But the people were so warm and kind to us:examples:<BR>two mean sent us an apple crepe-one of their three- when we admired the flambeau effect when ignited for presentation.<BR><BR>A local parisian offered to share his cab with us when we were caught in the rainy traffic near the eiffel tower. He lived near the Luxembourg gardens and we were staying nearby. Not only that but he would not let us pay a penny and he dropped us off first. He even gave us his name and number so we could call next time we are in Paris.<BR><BR>When I tried to pay for our meal with a card other than American Express at a restaurant that only takes that card, the main waiter offered to walk with us to a nearby cash machine - because I did not know the neighborhood, it was late at night, and my daughter wanted to come with me, rather than stay in the restaurant. <BR><BR>Stores delivered purchases to our hotel, people gave my daughter candy and little presents, the list goes on and on. I have only witnessed about ten rude people in my six trips to Paris - that's how many rude people I met in two days in Los Angeles.<BR><BR>I think the reason I have had such good luck is that I am very conscious of the customs and protocol. For example, you never just walk up and say, where are the restrooms. You must always say, the equivalent of "bonsoir madame(or monsieur) - Excusey moi - Pouvez vous me dire ou sont les toilettes? Ah, merci madame, au revoir." And, please, do try to speak french. No one will laugh at you for making mistakes if you look like you are earnestly trying. They will help you finish your sentences. Many of them are practicing english so they understand.<BR><BR>My next post I will list the places we went and observations.<BR><BR><BR>

I also have found Paris to be quite easy for making acquaintances, and I have found the people to be just as courteous as anywhere else in Europe. The key, as already emphasized, is to be sincere, pleasant, use "thank you" and "please," and try to use the French language as much as possible. The only problem I ever had with anyone in Paris was with a waiter at the Brasserie Lipp, who became a bit impatient at my attempts to order the meal in French. Even then, his impatience was sprinkled with a bit of humor and leg-pulling. I honestly believe that people all over the world are basically kind and understanding; we just need to remember that in their country, we are the foreigners.

because we missed a day-quel horreur - we got there just in time for our reservations a Jules Vernes. NTS - never go there again - and if I do definitely do not get their overpriced and silly menu degustation - blech. Saw others getting some luscious duck thing with figs that I would have sold things for.<BR><BR>Then we wandered around the Champs de mar and piddled away the rest of the day just getting settled in our hotel and such.<BR><BR>The next day we went to the Notre Dame and wandered over to the Ile St Louis. wnt to The Brasserie de Isle St Louis on Ile St Louis - NTS - never go here for any reason. I thought the food was horrible - horrible. I did not like the atmosphere . The food had an off taste. I don't understand why people recommend this place- blechh!<BR><BR>Wandered down the rue St Louis en L'Ille and visited alot of hotels. I went to occitane- again I don't understand the allure of that place. Stuff smelled OK but not THAT good.<BR><BR>The 19th we went to the Arc de Triomphe and it was closed until 2pm for some odd reason. We went to the Rue Poncelet market - NTS- this place is closed on Mondays but no books say that. Walked down the Champs d'elysee. Went to see Louis Vitton and saw the big trunks that were in Joe vs the Volcano. Had luch at Laduree - very fifi la peu. Delicious chicken curry salad - to die for macaroons - expecially pistachio. That evening went to the rue de Buci. Bought a stunning bouquet of anenomes and roses for 200 francs that brightened our lives our enitre trip. It just kept opening every day. It was bagged in water. I have never seen anything like it. Buy one there at Aquerelle on the rue de buci. Then we went to the little cafe that has a guy cracking oysters in the front- had the oysters gratinee - OH my Gawd - to die for. Do this, even if you don't like oysters. Then got wantered through the markets to buy lychees, tangerines, raspberries, beaujolais, poilane bread and cheese for our room .<BR><BR>The 20th we went to the fashion show at Galleries Lafayette - NTS - why havent I done this before. IT was an absolute blast- ask to be seated right at the end of the runway. Now this was a stunning show - stunning. The models were gorgeous, the accessories were fabulous, and the clothes were marveilleux. Take your camera.<BR><BR>After that we went to the Musee Grevin - the was museum. We loved it - take your camera. IT was two hours of fun. That night we went to Chez dumonet Josephine. If you ever see morilles farci - order it and prepare to die. I went back for them but they said they didn't have morels. But our food was wonderful - wonderful.

Mariacallas!<BR><BR>"Chez Dumonet Josephine" is an old fav of mine, just like the whole Rue du Cherche-Midi. It's it just perfect for a stroll?<BR><BR>Sorry, you missed the Opera Bastille.<BR><BR>Nice post, merci beaucoup.

Mariacallas, this is fantastic! I'm getting ready for my 3rd trip to Paris in 4 weeks and you have many new and helpful tips!! Merci! More???

Mariacallas: Nice posts. I found it interesting that you liked the fashion show. Never have attended, but rec'd free tickets with Eurostar tickets (and thought it would only be a hokey tourist thing). Glad to hear that it was worthwhile. Also, refresh my memory, what is the subject of the Musee Grevin? Finally, did you mention where you stayed? If not, please identify with details (i.e. price, ammenities, etc.). Thx.

Dear trying, All of the tickets to the fashion show are free (you can even book online)and it really is a fun thing to do. For Mariacallas, thanks for the wonderful report and for your next trip, keep in mind that most (if not all) markets are closed on Mondays. That would be the perfect day for fashion shows and museums that are operating on Mondays. Have fun!

I am planning a quick trip to Paris next week. Is the show at Moulin Rouge worth seeing?

Hi Mariacallas<BR><BR>I was in Paris in September. It was my first trip but didn't do all the different things you did. Is it because with every trip you just get more knowledgeable with the city or is it that I'm stupid. <BR><BR>Enjoyed all the info.

Fun post, Maria. Thanks for the smile! :-)

Man, I just read my posts. Please credit my typos to jet lag and a half. Musee Grevin is the WAX museum - unbelievabley cool- life sized figures of celebrities - my idol - Maria Callas was there in all her Diva glory. Julia Roberts, Madonna, historical figures - and tons of French celebrities.<BR><BR>It was wonderful. I stayed in Hotel Bonaparte - I think it was about 115 / night. I liked it- very room dependent- no frills - but for one who uses the room only for sleeping and getting ready to go out - it was perfect. I really prefer to spend my money on fine dining and gifts you cannot buy elsewhere = foi gras d'oie, fabric, clothes, accessories, painting supplies, etc.<BR><BR>Regarding the Moulin rouge. I have seen that, the lido, and Folies Bergere. I guess it's worth doing once, but you will probably not remember it in three years. <BR><BR>

Kallie -- it's because it was your first time. I missed a lot my first time (and second, and third...) You just have to keep going back! Each trip is more leisurely than the last -- you don't feel like you have to cram a million things into a few days (or a week).

Chris - Thanks. You made me feel better. I did see a lot of things but it was your typical 1st time to Paris things to see and can't go home without seeing. Hopefully I am going to be going to Italy and Paris next September or October and will be far more knowledgeable.

Thanks for the memories! I enjoy reading all the traveloges on Paris. I am looking forward to my third trip in June. I am so happy to hear others say that the French are friendly. We have always felt that way but so many people I talk with do not like Paris. I met a woman the other day who said they hated Paris and that the people were rude to them. I realy am leary of people who feel this way! I guess to each their own! I agree with you that you must try to respect their customs and be polite and that makes all the difference.

Oh, while it's fresh on my mind, a few notes on preparing for the day of departure. <BR><BR>Detaxe is for anything over 1200 francs - what's that in euro?-or anything you ship. I recommend that if you need a bunch of stuff, start out at somewhere like Galleries Lafayette and try to get it all at one place so you can get detax. Then you can shop at other places to fill in the rest of your list. Plan to spend about three hours there minimim. <BR><BR>Don't let them -GL- talk you into that deal where they keep track of your stuff on a little form and the gather all your stuff in one place - unless you're sure they use the correct form. The guy who does that downstairs is an absolute buffoon who will drive you crazy - I'd like to stomp on his toes.<BR><BR>Keep all of your receipts and detax stuff in one place. Tally them all, subtract the tax out, and convert the total to US dollars, or else take a calculator on the plane. You'll need that for your customs declaration when you arrive back in the US.<BR><BR>While you're in Paris - go by a Tabac and get stamps for postcards- 2 per card- and also get stamps for all your detax forms.<BR><BR>Keep a copy of your passport with you while shopping - you need it to get detaxe.<BR><BR>When shopping, ask stores to deliver your purchases to your hotel so you don't have to shlepp your stuff around all day - looking like a tourist.<BR><BR>When you pack for departure, put your passport, receipts, and detax forms with stamps in one place. Put your purchased items in one bag. Put someone in the line from hell- to check your baggage - they need the airline tickets. Meanwhile you take your bag of items you purchased and want detax refund to the detax counter. They want to see the items you are claiming for detaxe and the want to see your detaxe form -out of the envelope- and passport. They will ask you some questions, then tell give you the green and pink copies of your detaxe forms. You put the pink copy in the corresponding envelope, seal it, stamp it. and go put it in the yellow - boite de lettre (mail box). IF you forget to get a stamp, get one from the tabac there in the airport. The whole process takes about twenty minutes if you already have the stamps and the stuff together. Then you can go check your bag or carry it on. I recommend checking as much stuff as you can these days cause it totally sucks to get delayed in security - and miss your flight- just because something you bought looks questionable in the xray machine. They are VERRRRRRRY particular in the paris airport.<BR><BR>Reserve some cash for buying stuff in the duty free stores and the airport - Don't even try to bring back french cheese - US customs won't let you. Be prepared for a very long line at the duty free shops. IF you want time to shops there, get to the airport at least three hours early - I recommend it.<BR><BR>

My opinion on how to keep from being a target - why I have never had any problems - how to blend in.<BR><BR>Dress like the parisians - long coats, big wool dark scarves, dark shoes. Many parisians wear backpacks or big purses. If you don't have one for your extra stuff, carry around a plain bag.<BR><BR>Don't talk on the metro unless you speak perfect french. Do not stand near the doors to the metro - that's prime target for thievery. Sit still, don't draw attention to yourself. Don't wear flashy clothes, carry Louis Vuitton - flashy bags, or wear things with American logos on it. Don't walk around with a big american grin on your face - parisians don't do that to strangers - especially women don't.<BR><BR>Ask the information stand at the metro station for directions to your destination - if you don't understand the directions - ask them to write it down. "Monsier/madame, pouvez vous ecriver les directions sur la carte, s'il vous plait. If you hear the word changez, be sure you know where to change trains.<BR><BR>The RER is not the same as the metro. IT is a different system. Be sure you know how to do it before you launch off into that underworld. The chatelet RER stations is absolutely gigantic - bigger than that.<BR><BR>Metro stations usually have a big M lit up over the entrances.<BR><BR>When you plan your day, I recommend that you take a metro or tax to your furthest destination and work toward your hotel. Ask your hotel to call a cab for you at least thirty minutes before you'll need it. If you need a cab after five or on Friday or Sunday evening, ask your hotel to call and reserve it for you in advance. It's almost impossible to get a cab on Friday and Sunday nights due to all the commuters. There are 14,900 cabs in Paris and about 12 million people. Many of those commute on the weekends. Plan around it.<BR><BR>Learn where the taxi stations are near your hotel and be prepared to walk to them. Get a hotel near one and near a metro station. Learn this - "Pardons, madame. ?Ou est the station de taxi / metro le plus proche. (Where is the closest taxi/metro station?) Learn how to understand the following things so you can follow directions- A cote de- en face de - toute droite, tournez, a gauch, a droite, upstairs, down stairs - the beginning, the end. <BR><BR>More later.

A note on what you can pack in on a day. Just like anything, you need to set priorities. The first time to Paris, you need to learn how to get around. Generally you're just so taken with the whole concept of cafes, the architecture, the cosmopolitan feel, and the food, and the shopping.<BR><BR>The level of my planning was not possible without the WW web. I was amazed at the maps I could find, and all the info on restaurants, etc. <BR><BR>I highly recommend the new version of the food lover's guide to Paris by Patricia Wells. I took it with me each and every day. It gives the names, addresses, email and web addresses, and fax numbers of the restaurants, cafes, wine bars, and specialty shops in PAris. she recommends what to order. I was very happy with most of her recommendations - except for brasserie en l'isle.<BR><BR>The secret is to figure out how to work everything into the day in a logical way - dialing in mealtimes, lines, and weird hours. If you take the time to do this planning, it's amazing how much you can pack into a day.<BR><BR>I still have a lot more to tell you - I have only told you about four days. We were there for 9!

OK, now that I'm looking at my journal I can see that one morning we went to Poilane bakery and went down to see the oven. IT was very very cool. then we went to the Musee D'orsay but it was closed for the day for remodeling. So we went to the louvre instead. Then we went to Senneliers- across from the louvre and bought some art supplies - check out their pastel gift boxes and pads of pastel paper - awesome and good prices.<BR><BR>then we walked down the rue de seine and saw the art galleries. That night we went to Chez maitre Paul - very good fish in a cream sauce. Sweet waiters and nice comfy roomy atmo.<BR><BR>The next day we went to the Musee d'orsay and then to the Musee Jaquemart D'Andre - very very cool mansion in PAris. That night we went to the fermette Marbeuf - It is pretty but the food was nothing special. I notice now it's not in Patricia Wells book. I will not book anywhere that is not in her book - ever again.<BR><BR>The next day we slept late and then went to L'ami Louis for lunch at 12:30. Then we went to Houles - a place to buy tassels and trim - open only to the trade. That night we went to the Ballet- La Bayardere at the opera Bastille. Omigowd - I never liked ballet until I saw that one. Nureyev choreographed it for the PAris Ballet and it is stupendous. Really, I cried twice it was soooo beautiful. The dancers were excellent. NTS - the french do not really dress up much for the ballet. I was surprised - it looked like street clothes compared to what they wear to similar events in NY, Dallas, Houston, SF, etc. I like it that there were many kids there. The French are way up on Americans culturally - we tend to reserve the arts for adults - why? NTS - make sure to eat BEFORE the ballet. We were starving. Then we went to Cafe Flore for a late bite.<BR><BR>

Mariacallas - Did you book your tickets for the ballet in the states or wait until you got to Paris. If here who did you book them through. Also it looks as though you were out late in the evenings. How did you get back to your hotel? Cabs are not always easy to find.<BR><BR>

This is grace a Fred (thanks to Fred) who sent this to me and I took his kind advice. Thank you Fred. You were a big help to me.<BR><BR>''You can write or Fax the Agence Cheque Theatre - 33 rue le Petier<BR>- 75009 <BR>Paris.<BR>Tel 011-33-1-42-46-72-40. Fax: 011-33-1-48-00-93-93. Request a<BR>schedule. I got my tickets from them. Be sure you know exactly where you are sitting and call wayyyy in advance. <BR><BR>You can call your concierge. <BR>You can go to: http://www.opera-de-paris.fr and can get both<BR>Opera and <BR>Ballet tickets from this site. Click on the British flag for<BR>English or the <BR>option "English." You'll have 5 minutes to complete the<BR>transaction - have <BR>your credit card ready. If you don't make it and it ends, just<BR>start over - <BR>you'll do better the 2nd time.''<BR><BR>I always got the restaurant to call a cab or hail one for me. I caught a cab in front of the Opera - guess I was just lucky. The Cafe Flore was a five minute walk from my hotel.

Oh a couple of notes on the Centre Pompidou. IT is a museum on one side and a library on the other side. So, you get a huge line of students standing with you to go through security. Once inside you need to proceed immediately to buy tickets. Do not bother trying to go through the silly and exhausting credit card line to get tickets from machines - you save no time at all.<BR><BR>Honestly, I thought the whole thing was a huge waste of time. I am a great art lover and I just do not see the draw of this museum. Most of the art there, I want to run away from - blechhh. I don't like Dubuffet - ish and there were very very few Matisse and the ones there were not my favorites. Thanks, but I'll pass on seeing rooms of weird materials/art. I'd rather go to the musee d'orsay twice, thank you very much. The only thing worth seeing there, in my opinion was the Atelier Brancusi - one of my favorite sculptors. That is outside the museum and it takes about 15 minutes to see.<BR><BR>I'd vote go to see the Tanquey water sculptures outside in the little pond. Go see the performers out on the big square next to the museum, and then go do something different. IT ain't worth it to try to get tiackets and find anything worth seeing there IMHO. <BR><BR>With all due respect about half of the museum's permanent collection was closed due to remodeling so maybe I missed something great - I don't think so.<BR><BR>Oh, and the Musee d'orsay - this must be one of the top ten museums in the world. I am so moved by the beautiful Van Goghs. He's the man. I don't know when I have enjoyed a museum any more.<BR><BR>And this time we spent a lot of time in the large format paintings - French - at the Louvre. They are soooooo amazing. My little girl opened my eyes to them. I really enjoyed the beautiful frames almost as much as I enjoyed the paintings in the Louvre. The frames are quite extraordinary.

Just got back myself and I wanted to strongly recommend the current show at the Grand Palais..."Paris Barcelona, from Gaudi to Miro". It will be there until Jan. 14th. Extraordinary! (Someone on here mentioned it, sorry I can't recall who, and I checked on it when I got there. Thanks, if you're reading this.:-))

Great post, mariacallas! Thanks!<BR><BR>Note: you need TWO RED stamps or ONE BLUE stamp for a postcard. The red stamps are 3FF and the blue ones are about 5FF. Since everyone goes to the Louvre at some point, there is a post office near what I call the "postcard giftshop". They have pretty stamps there (Versailles) -- just write out your postcard AFTER you stamp it (those stamps are big).

More on L'ami Louis. Do Go - it's fabulous. Don't order the pate - there is way too much of it and it isn't so great. Instead, try the scallops for an appetizer- you'll need one cause the chicken takes so long to cook. Order the Poulet Roti-roasted chicken - two people have to order it cause it's a whole chicken. Otherwise get the roasted veal those are supposedly the two best things they serve. Order the Pommes frites bien cuit- they are not usually cooked well enough. Supposedly the nougat icecream is good but you will probably not have enough room left. And I got a fabulous wine there- it's a white and has the name Bauregard in it- it is beyond superb and very reasonable. You have to book way in advance and I would ask for a table in the middle - not the very front or very back. It is not glamourous - you go for the food - you will never think of chicken the same way again.

Ok - let me finish this thing. By this time we were getting tears in our eyes at the thought of going homes. So, I planned the perfect last day -and it truly was perfect.<BR><BR>To start- we went to a little cafe near the JArdin du Luxembourg. I can't find the name right now - but if you enter the park right where the Fontaine de Medicis is on your right - across the major street from there is a cafe with plastic covering the patio - like a tent- so you can see the gardens while you eat. They have fantastic Croque Madames there- gruyere and ham open faced sandwich with a poached egg on top. It might be on rue Medici.<BR><BR>It was a Sunday so all of paris was out jogging or guiding little kiddos on bikes. IT was a beautiful sunny day. We wandered around there awhile - then headed to the La Place de La Concorde to ride the carrousel. We rode twice - squealing with delight at the view - thrilled to have one more day of this beautiful city.<BR><BR>Then we walked down the rue de Rivoli to Angelinas for hot chocolate and a wonderful chicken curry salad. Then to the Louvre Antiquaires to see the amazing antique shops - way pricey but some of the most luscious stuff you have ever seen. <BR><BR>Then we went to the Jardin du Palais Royale - an amazingly beautiful courtyard surrounded by the former home of the king. Too bad the shops stringing the gardens were closed. This is the home of le Grand Vefour. Here we took off our shoes and propped up our tired feet and giggled at the little (french) birds all around. <BR><BR>Then we walked over to the Galerie Vivienne a beautiful little passage on the rue vivienne and had tea at La Priorite. Then we went to Les Bateaux mouches for a spectacular ride down the seine.<BR><BR>PS-- on the way to les bateaux mouches the cab driver showed us the tunnel where Princess Diana died and then he launched off into a huge diatribe about how she was actually killed by the Queen mother because diana was three months pregnant by Dodi Fayed. We just sat there with our mouths hanging open. He went on and on about how there was a bomb in the car and yada yada. I had never heard that before.<BR><BR>After the boat ride it was hard to find a cab but an amazingly nice Parisian offered to share his cab with us. We rested up a teeny bit nd then headed over to Benoit. <BR><BR>Ps - you need to ask the guy at Benoit how to get there cause the street is closed to traffic - you need to walk a little short way. <BR><BR>I had some amazing escargot and wonderful scallops. Some men sent over a crepe when they saw us eyeing the flambeau presentation. It was really fun - warning they only take american express cards.<BR><BR>It was a truly glorious day.<BR><BR>The next day we left at 1:00 pm. That's our travelogue complet. Hope it gives you some good ideas.

What a great travelogue! First Elvira, then you--I'm really determined to get to Paris now--thanks for the great descriptions and inspirations.....

I just remembered something we really enjoyed. After leaving the Centre Pompidou, we walked up the rue de francs-bourgeois to La Place des Vosges. We went to a really great little cheese shop on the opposite side of the street that had the best yogurt we have ever eaten. (it was vanilla yogurt from the and I am diligently searching for the label I saved here in these suitcases.) There are tons and tons of shops along this wonderful little street and it was the most animated street I think I have ever seen in Paris. We came into La Place des Vosges just at sunset when it is aglow with oranges and reds. The musicians were playing Mozart in the beautiful arched walkways - really nice. We went to a little cafe with lousy service and even worse food - something like Tangerine or Clementine- Blech! (NTS-Next time try to get to Coconnas or L'ambroisie - or downgrade to La Chope des Vosges or Ma Bourgogne). But we wandered around the many art galleries and admired the things we can't afford. We saw Hotel Sully, and then caught a cab home. We slept very well that night.<BR><BR>La Place Des Vosges (at sunset) is my favorite spot in Paris. Then comes:<BR>Le Jardin du Luxembourg(early in the morning)<BR>Le Champs de mars next to La Tour Eiffel(sunday afternoon)<BR>Les Tuileries next to le Louvre(Sunday)<BR>La Place du Pavre next to the Notre Dame<BR>Le Jardin du Palais Royal<BR>and Place St Sulpice when the bells are ringing. This arrangement is always the basis of my Paris itenerary.<BR><BR>

MC, what a lovely travelogue--I feel like I've just taken a trip (but not as tired). It was fun.

Great ideas. Will be traveling in Feb with my mother and my grandmother, both first timers (it will be my second) any web sites you recommend to help in the planning process?

Sandra:<BR>IF I were going with them I would definitely recommend that you get the book "overcoming jet lag" and practice it so they dont get jet lag- that can lose about two days of a trip for older people. I always use it on the way over there and never get jet lag. On the way back I usually don't care and just do what I want and suffer later at home.<BR><BR>I recommend that you stay near the place st sulpice or the bvd. St. Germaine - where it's easy to get a cab and metro.This is what your days might look like:<BR>1. Breakfast at the Ritz- go to the Place de la concorde and ride the ferris wheel - stroll through the tuileries-go to the Louvre- to see the mona lisa-2 hours max-, maybe lunch somewhere luscious on the Palais Royale - or go to Priorite in the Passage Vivienne - try to work in angelinas for tea and hot chocolate(just mediocre lunch) on the rue de rivoli<BR>2. The Galleries lafayette fashion show and shopping - then go to Laduree for lunch or tea--- rue poncelet market(where patricia wells shops each day) get some wine and cheese, bread, fruit - take napkins and plates and knives-- -then 4:30 Bateaux mouches -it leave from near the eiffel tower<BR>3.Musee d'orsay - lunch in the fancy restaurant there-by the clock - and wind it up at sunset- 5ish at the place des vosges-sit in the square on a blanket if it's nice weather - maybe do l'ambroisie or coconnas for dinner<BR>4. I might vote for something like eiffel tower and lunch at fontaine de mars or go to the notre dame cathedral-Jardin du luxembourg - lunch nearby - like at Chez Diane's - then shopping on Rue Bonaparte and that area - then dinner at Allard.<BR><BR>You wont have time to do things like go to the top of the arc de triomphe or the top of notre dame - no need to. Make sure to go to LEs Deux Maggots one evening to see the scene. Swing by the notre dame cathedral when you get a little snippet of a sunny day - just go in. If you go to the Eiffel tower - go early before the lines and not on a weekend. go to the top - definitely.<BR><BR>That way you get fashion, cathedral, view, market, shopping, the major art scene, cafe scene and the river beat. I recommend that you definitely go to an opera or ballet and you definitely go to a really to die for restaurant. It is necessary for the total experience. I have given this a lot of careful thought. This is manageable in four full days - not including travel days. You don't have time for Sacre Cour or Versailles. You need a cafe, bistro/brasserie, and fine dining experience. Oh for a totally peel your eyeballs out - we are very rich - experience - eat breakfast at the breakfast room at the Ritz vendome- where they have the angels painted on the ceiling. It is beyond luscious - no tennis shoes, please.<BR><BR>

I just returned from a whilrwind tour of Europe. This included 2 days only (sadly) of Paris. I fell in love with the city, the people and the sights. I too speak fluent french, and I could tell the Parisiens appreciated the effort, especially when helping my english friends. I found the people to be friendly as well, eventhough many people told me that parisiens were rude and snobby. At a great little cafe, when I asked the waiter about how to get back to my hotel, he had my map spread out on the table and gave me different routes and methods I could take. MC what a great travelogue, and I know I only saw the "touristy things" Eiffel tower, the Louvres, Tomb of Napoleon, Notre Dame (which actually brought tears to my eyes due to its splendor and beauty) and shopped the Champs D'Elysee, had a pain au chocolat, ate amazing escargots and Madames Croques, and had a chocolate Crepe. I even got to see a French Cabaret. My 2 days were jammed packed, but I swear I left my heart in paris, and I fully intend on returning to reclaim it!<BR>Thanks for more ways to enjoy this fabulous city!

More for Sandra -<BR>I recommend that you do not do the bateaux mouches on a friday or sunday. And it is better if you don't try the musee d'orsay on a weekend. Once you decide on your days. <BR><BR>Then print a map of the area from this site - http://www.ismap.com/<BR>look up the address and print maps of the places you want to go so it's easy to hand a map to a cab driver or look up the nearest metro stop. Start the day with a metro ride than if you're tired later- take a cab. Just try to be in your dinner area by 5ish - otherwise get your hotel to reserve a cab for twenty minutes before your dinner reservation time. Plot the places you want to go and draw arrows how to get there. Gather the pages for that day- with maps etc- and just fold that up un your purse. I always take an extra day in case a museum closing screws up my day.<BR><BR>We tried just doing big lunches only but we found that we still wanted someone to serve us dinner. IF you go to the ballet or opera one night - make sure you leave time to swing by a cafe first or have stuff in your room to eat first. <BR>We really enjoyed having a refrigerator in our room and a table at hotel bonaparte. That way we could keep yogurt and fruit, wine and drinks to fill in the gaps between meals.<BR><BR>Be sure to try the Papillon blue cheese- you can get it a Beaumarchais - the little market by the rue de buci. Also try lychee nuts and clementines. Try some yogurt from a cheese chop - it's amazing. Oh, and get a flower arrangement for your room from Aquarelle on the rue de buci - you'll love it.<BR><BR><BR>figure out prices using this site<BR>http://www.xe.net/ucc/<BR><BR>make reservations in french and interpret french web pages using this site:<BR>http://babelfish.altavista.com/<BR><BR>definitely buy Patricia Wells book - food lover's guide to paris if there are any foodies among you - it'll getcha in the mood for paris<BR><BR>And, practice french - it really enhances the french experience.

Oh - one more thing. I got a little map at the Toursit office on the Champs elysee- I think it's #128? (not far from laduree)- but it's a little orange book - spiral - that has the sections of paris on little sheets- it's super handy- I just kept it with me constantly - I also kept the La Samaritaine map with me cause it shows the areas of the arrondisements - I also kept a little compass with me to help me figure out if I was turned around

Excellent tips! While my grandmother is quite spunky and adventerous we will have to slow down and plan carefully to accomadate her age if we want to get the quintessential Parisian experience. We'll have about 5 days and your recommendations should fit that pace. Thank you very much! Now onto London!

Lin hello!<BR><BR>Glad to hear you liked the "Paris-Barcelona" exhibition at the Grand Palais. <BR>It's on top of my things-to-do-list for the end of December.<BR>I might have been the one mentioning it here some weeks ago.

Could someone give me a little more detail about the fashion shows? I am planning a March trip. Are they possible then? Any other tips for March?

I know I ought to just let it go, but my God, this post is just the kind of thing that keeps drawing me back to this site with a fascinated and appalled horror. I swear to God, for the longest while I tried to tell myself this must be some kind of tongue in cheek satire, nobody could possibly be that insistently pretentious ("Don't talk on the Metro unless you speak perfect French." Who does this person think she is, The Comtesse de St Germain?) but then of course everybody agreed with her and started to chime in with their own self-congratulatory tidbits and directions about how to order one's potatoes and behave in shops and so forth. I love Paris as much as the next guy, believe me, but is there any place in the world that a) attracts more smug and self-satisfied people who need to be dropped on their bottoms a few times; or b) encourages the creating of more of these monsters? I wanted to avoided picking on Americans too, but Paris seems to bring out all of their worst, pettiest, most competitive little insecurities, and in a more unattractive light than anywhere else I can think of. I would like to be able to have fun and enjoy the company of these kinds of people (since they seem to be everywhere) but I really can't, and I imagine there have to be heaps of people out there who feel something of the nausea I feel merely contemplating their existence. If there aren't, well, then you really do win, I guess.

MEOW Erlsegaard!!! And Elaine just commented on how nice everyone was behaving. People boasting about trips are called trip reports and some are a little more enthusiastic about their successes than others. It's all good information but if it turns your stomach, hit the little x in the right hand box at the top of your screen!

Karen - here's the link on the fashion show. I hope you enjoy it.<BR><BR>http://www.galerieslafayette.com/hau...shionshow.html

I agree with Miss Kitty! I enjoyed MariaCallas' trip report therefore kept reading. If I found it unenjoyable I would have stopped. I do the same with books, tv programs and people! Therefor I have turned Erlsgaard OFF!